Where to buy crocus bulbs?

Crocus

Crocus – The early-blooming and long-lived flower of spring

The bulbs (properly, corms) multiply amazingly and can be planted in full sun to partial shade where a dash of early color is wanted. Crocuses naturalize beautifully in lawns. There are two types of spring Crocus: the species and the hybrids, which are generally listed as selections of C. vernus. The former are notable for their unusual coloration, the latter for their large flowers. Species Crocus generally bloom earlier than the hybrids, so by using both kinds, you prolong the season. We offer several mixtures that are designed to provide loads of bright blooms in early spring. It goes almost without saying that to be effective in a landscape, Crocuses must be used in quantity. Plantings of several thousand bulbs are marvelous, and our volume discounts make this largesse affordable.

The Fall Bloomers
Less well known are the fall-blooming Crocuses, a group of species native to Europe and the Near East whose refined, goblet-shaped flowers appear on 3-5in stems in September and October. We offer a mix of these as well as individual varieties. Saffron Crocus, famous for the color and flavor it brings to food, belongs to this group. Like the fall-blooming Colchicums we offer, the bulbs must be shipped in late summer, so please order early.

Forcing Crocus Bulbs
Crocuses are one of the easiest cold-hardy bulbs to force in pots for indoor bloom. Full instructions accompany your order and are given below.

What We Ship
We send premium, top-quality bulbs in fall, at the correct time for outdoor planting in your region.

Crocus – How to Care for Your Bulbs

Planting: Bulbs are easy to plant. With a trowel or a bulb planter, dig a hole to the depth indicated on the plant label (about 3-5in deep; use the label, which is 6in long, as a rough measuring stick). Set the bulb in the hole with the flat side down and pointed end up. After you’ve placed the bulb in the hole, fill the hole with soil and water thoroughly.

Light/Watering: Most bulbs flower best in full sun (6 hours or more of direct sunlight per day) but tolerate light shade. They can thrive under deciduous trees, provided root competition is not too severe and the bulbs receive at least a half-day (3-4 hours) of sunlight after the trees leaf out.

Although there may be no signs of life above ground, bulbs begin sending out roots soon after planting — as long as the soil is sufficiently moist. Unless you expect a soaking rain within a day or two of planting, we recommend that you water thoroughly after you plant. Water newly planted bulbs again only if rainfall is scarce. Once established, most bulbs want ample moisture — 1/2 to 1in of rain per week — while in active growth (which begins in fall, slows or stops in winter, and resumes in late winter or early spring) and require soil that is on the dry side during summer dormancy. Do not plant bulbs near soaker hoses or sprinklers.

Fertilizer/Soil and pH: Crocus bulbs require soil that drains well the year round. To improve the drainage of heavy soil, dig in organic matter such as compost, aged manure, leafmold, peat moss, or (in the South) shredded pine bark. If you garden in very heavy clay, consider constructing raised beds to provide well-drained conditions. Crocuses tolerate acid soil but thrive in neutral to slightly alkaline soil.

The best time to fertilize bulbs is in fall, when they are sending out new roots. The next best time to fertilize is in early spring, just as the foliage begins to push through the soil. We recommend using a slow-release fertilizer formulated especially for bulbs, such as a granular Daffodil fertilizer. It’s an easy matter to apply the fertilizer to the surface of the soil above the bulbs after planting and then every fall thereafter. We do not recommend using bone meal. It contains only one primary nutrient (phosphorus) and attracts dogs and rodents, which may dig up the bulbs.

Bloom time: The bloom times printed on our labels are typical of bulbs grown in Litchfield, Connecticut. Where spring comes earlier, bloom will generally be earlier. Likewise, in colder climates, flowering will be delayed. Please note that the first spring after planting, most bulbs (particularly those imported from cool-summer climates such as those of Holland and England) bloom later than established bulbs of the same variety. This is not unusual. In subsequent years, they will bloom at the appointed time.

Dormancy: Most of the bulbs we offer go dormant within about 8-12 weeks after flowering. The period between the end of flowering and the withering of the foliage is crucial to the future vigor of the plant. If you cut, fold, or braid the leaves before they have yellowed and collapsed, you may prevent the bulb from storing the energy required to bloom the following year. You can hide curing foliage by interplanting bulbs with leafy perennials or with annuals or ground covers. If you plant bulbs in a lawn, do not mow the grass until the bulb foliage begins to yellow.

Transplanting/Dividing: The best time to move or divide bulbs is when their foliage has all but withered, signaling the end of active growth. Lift them with a digging fork or a spade, taking care to avoid injuring the bulbs, and replant them immediately at the same depth and about three times their diameter apart.

Pests/Diseases: Bulbs as a group are not much troubled by insects or diseases, but in some areas, rodents or deer may eat the bulbs, foliage, or flowers.

Forcing Cold-Hardy Bulbs: Many spring-flowering bulbs can be tricked or “forced” to bloom indoors in winter, providing color and fragrance when few plants are stirring outdoors. “Rooting time” refers to the amount of time during which cold-hardy bulbs must be kept cold (about 40 degrees F) and moist before they can be brought into bloom.

Containers and potting mix. You can use any pot you like to hold bulbs for forcing, as long as it allows room for root growth — about 3-4in of space below the bulbs. If you choose a pot without a drainage hole in the bottom, you’ll have to water your bulbs very carefully; bulbs sitting in soggy potting mix soon rot. We recommend that you force bulbs in a soilless potting mix (available at garden centers and hardware stores). A soilless mix holds moisture but allows excess water to drain away readily.

Potting the bulbs. To pot the bulbs, begin by placing potting mix in a plastic tub or bucket. Slowly add water and stir until the mix is moist but not soggy. Add moistened mix to the container until the container is about 1/2 full. Set the bulbs with the flat side down on top of the mix. Space the bulbs much more closely than you would in the garden; they should almost touch. Then add more mix to cover the bulbs. Cover the bulbs up to their necks, leaving the tips of the bulbs exposed. Water thoroughly after potting.

Chilling the bulbs. To force cold-hardy bulbs into bloom, you must first encourage them to produce new roots by keeping them cold and moist for a period of time that varies by type of bulb (8-10 weeks for Crocus). The ideal rooting temperature also varies, but most bulbs flower best if stored at 40-60 degrees F for the first 3-4 weeks after potting, then at 32-40 degrees F for the balance of the cooling period — a shift that mimics the drop in soil temperature outdoors as fall turns to winter.

You can also chill bulbs in a cold basement, an unheated garage (provided the temperature doesn’t fall below freezing), or a refrigerator. In such locations, it may be difficult to arrange for the shift in temperature described above, but most bulbs will root properly if the temperature does not stray too far above or below 40 degrees F during the rooting time.

If rodents have access to your bulbs, they may devour them, so protect potted bulbs with steel mesh or another barrier that still allows air circulation.

Please note that moisture is as important as temperature in the successful chilling of bulbs. Check the potting mix in the pots every few weeks and water thoroughly when the surface of the mix is dry to the touch.

Toward the end of the recommended rooting time, begin checking the pots for signs that the bulbs have rooted. If you see fleshy white roots poking through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pots, the bulbs are usually ready to bloom. If you don’t see roots, give the bulbs more time in cold storage. Don’t judge readiness by the appearance of shoots from the tops of the bulbs; without roots, the bulbs won’t flower properly.

Once the bulbs have rooted, you don’t have to bring them out of the cold immediately. Most tolerate extra chilling time, allowing you to orchestrate a succession of winter bloom.

Bringing the bulbs into bloom. When the bulbs have rooted, bring the pots out of cold storage and set them in a bright window in a cool room (one where the temperature stays below 65 degrees F). Bright light will help keep the leaves and flower stems compact; in weak light, they tend to flop. You are likely to find that the bulbs have produced white shoots during cold storage. Sunlight quickly turns them green.

Keep a close eye on the moisture needs of the bulbs as they send up leaves and flower stems. Initially, the bulbs probably won’t need to be watered more often than once a week (if that much), but by the time they bloom, you may need to water them every day or two.

Most bulbs will bloom 2-5 weeks after they come out of the cold, heralding spring with their bright colors and sweet fragrances. Duration of bloom varies with the type of bulb and the variety but is generally shorter than you’d expect of bulbs in the garden. Warm temperatures and low humidity indoors speed the decline of the flowers. Keeping the pots out of direct sunlight and moving them to a cool room at night helps prolong bloom.

When the blooms fade, we recommend that you toss the bulbs on the compost pile. If you keep them in a sunny window and continue to water them, forced bulbs can be planted in the garden after the threat of hard frost has passed, but they won’t bloom well again for at least 2 years. It’s better, in our view, simply to buy enough bulbs for planting indoors and out.

Growing and Harvesting Saffron Crocus

Saffron is a delicious and colorful seasoning that is used in breads, desserts, and main dishes in many parts of the world, from England to India, from the Middle East to Scandinavia, and all around the Mediterranean. Without it, an Indian curry or a Spanish paella just wouldn’t be the same.

The bright red-orange threads you get when you buy saffron are actually the stigmas, or female portion, of the Saffron Crocus flowers. It takes hundreds of flowers to produce a commercially useful amount, which explains why saffron is so expensive. For the home gardener, however, two-dozen Saffron Crocus will supply enough of the precious spice in the first year for a few memorable dishes. Then, with each successive year, the corms (which look like bulbs) will multiply, the size of the planting will increase, and you’ll be able to harvest more of the spicy stigmas. After 4 to 6 years, you should divide and replant the corms (do it right after the foliage has faded). Division prevents overcrowding, which can lead to a decrease in flowering.

Planting Saffron Crocus Corms: In areas where Saffron Crocus are reliably hardy – USDA Zone 6 through 8 in the South, 6 through 9 in the West – you should plant the corms as soon as you receive them. Saffron Crocus grows best in full sun and well-drained soil that is moderately rich in organic matter. Ideally, the site should be relatively dry in summer, when the corms are dormant.

Plant the corms 4in deep and 4in apart. If gophers, mice, or voles are a problem in your garden, plant the corms in containers or line the bed with hardware cloth or a similar wire mesh. Flowers will appear the first fall after planting (generally in September or October) and last for about 3 weeks. The grass-like leaves may emerge soon after the flowers or wait until the following spring. In either case, the leaves persist for 8-12 weeks, then wither and vanish, leaving no trace of the corms below until the flowers appear again in fall. It’s not a bad idea to mark the area where you’ve planted your corms, so you don’t inadvertently dig them up while planting something else.

Overwintering Corms in Cold Climates: Saffron Crocus can be grown in areas with colder winters than Zone 6, but the corms must be lifted and brought indoors for the winter. After the first few frosts, but before the ground has frozen solid, carefully dig out the corms, place them in a wooden crate or plastic tub, and completely cover with dry peat moss or sand. Store in a cool (40-50°F), dry place, such as a basement. Plant them out again in the spring after all danger of frost has passed, but don’t water until you see new growth in early autumn.

Another way of growing Saffron Crocus in cold-winter areas is to plant the corms 2 in. deep in clay or plastic pots filled with a well-drained soil mix, and then set the pots directly in the ground, with the rims about 2 inches below the soil surface, so the pots don’t show. After the plants die back in the fall, move the pots into the basement and store them dry for the winter. Set the pots back out the following spring. Again, marking the pots’ location so you don’t accidentally dig into them is probably a good idea.

Harvesting and Using Saffron: Three stigmas are borne in the center of each purple, cup-shaped bloom. The best time to harvest the stigmas is mid-morning on a sunny day when the flowers have fully opened and are still fresh. Carefully pluck the stigmas from the flowers with your fingers, and then dry them in a warm place to preserve them for cooking. Store in a closed container. To use saffron, steep the threads in hot liquid (water, broth, or milk, depending on the recipe) for about 20 minutes. Add both the threads and the steeping liquid early in the cooking or baking process, and the threads will continue to release their color and flavor.

Learn About Crocus Bulbs

Common Disease Problems
Corm Scab: Watersoaked spots appear on corms (bulbs). Leaves turn yellow and die prematurely. This disease may be spread by bulb mites. Burpee Recommends: Remove and destroy infected corms. Control bulb mites.
Mosaic Virus: This can cause flower petals to have broken or streaked colors. Burpee Recommends: Dig up and discard affected plants. Do not use tools on other plants until they have been sterilized. Control aphids, which can spread the disease.

Spotted Foliage: This can come from late frosts after the foliage was emerged. Burpee Recommends: If a frost is expected cover the plants overnight. Be sure to mulch the blubs in fall after the ground freezes.
Common Pest and Cultural Problems

Aphids: Greenish, red, black or peach colored sucking insects can spread disease as they feed on the undersides of leaves. They leave a sticky residue on foliage that attracts ants. Burpee Recommends: Introduce or attract natural predators into your garden such as lady beetles and wasps which feed on aphids. You can also wash them off with a strong spray, or use an insecticidal soap.

Bulb Mites: Shiny creamy white mites range from .5 to 1 mm long and appear in clusters. They infest bulbs in storage and in the field. They damage bulbs by penetrating the outer tissue layer which eventually causes the bulbs to rot. Burpee Recommends: Inspect bulbs before planting and do not plant damaged bulbs. Avoid damaging bulbs when planting or weeding. Remove plant debris after leaves die back.

Bulb Nematodes: Microscopic worm-like pests that live and reproduce inside the bulb, feeding on the stems, leaves and bulbs. It can live for several years in the soil. Burpee Recommends: You can have your soil tested by your local Cooperative Extension Service to see if you have nematodes. Do not plant into infested soil and do not plant related crops into the soil for several years.

Slugs: These pests leave large holes in the foliage or eat leaves entirely. They leave a slime trail, feed at night and are mostly a problem in damp weather. Burpee Recommends: Hand pick, at night if possible. You can try attracting the slugs to traps either using cornmeal or beer. For a beer trap, dig a hole in the ground and place a large cup or bowl into the hole; use something that has steep sides so that the slugs can’t crawl back out when they’re finished. Fill the bowl about ¾ of the way full with beer, and let it sit overnight. In the morning, the bowl should be full of drowned slugs that can be dumped out for the birds to eat. For a cornmeal trap, put a tablespoon or two of cornmeal in a jar and put it on its side near the plants. Slugs are attracted to the scent but they cannot digest it and it will kill them. You can also try placing a barrier around your plants of diatomaceous earth or even coffee grounds. They cannot crawl over these.
Squirrels and other Rodents: Squirrels, chipmunks and voles dig up bulbs and eat flowers as well. Burpee Recommends: A physical barrier is the best control of rodents. Place a cylinder in the ground around the bulbs with the top level with the soil. Cover bed with screening or hardware cloth.

These low growing compact plants can be used to bring dashes of colour to sunny beds, borders, rock gardens and containers. They also naturalise well in grass or amongst other low growing plants.

The hardy six-petalled, goblet-shaped flowers, spring up through thin grass like leaves from autumn to spring (depending on the variety). Most UK gardeners grow early spring flowering types, however, with careful selection crocus blooms can be grown almost in succession from September through to April. A wide range of flower colours are available, depending on the variety, species and hybrid selected.

The name Crocus derives from the Greek “krokos” meaning saffron. Originating from the thread-like red stigmas of the Crocus species C. sativus.

Genus: Crocus
Family: Iridaceae (Colchicum species are from the Liliaceae family).
Height: from 2 to 4in (5 to 10cm), depending on variety.
Hardy: Hardy in most situations.
Soil Type: Tolerant of most well drained soil types.

Planting and Growing Crocus

Crocuses are ideally suited for rock gardens, sunny borders, pots, containers, raised beds or for naturalising in the wild garden. Many types can also be grown as house plants, in pots or bowls, provided they are not taken into the warmth of the house until some colour is showing in the buds. Plant outside immediately after the flowers fade.

All varieties required a reasonably fertile, free draining soil, and an open sunny aspect.

Plant the autumn flowering varieties in early summer. Plant winter and spring flowering varieties in the autumn.
Plant the corms with at least an inch of soil covering them.

The flowers of autumn crocuses appear before the leaves. So plant these in an open sunny site, where they will be baked in the summer sun. Thus ensuring good flowers the following season.

Taking Care of Crocus

These versatile and easy to grow bulbous plants require a light free draining soil. Fertilise with a little bonemeal or similar slow release fertiliser during the growing period.

Crocuses naturalise well if the growing conditions are right. The foliage will die back after flowering and disappear until the following year. Early flowering varieties are ideal for naturalizing in grass. Mowing should be delayed until the flowers and foliage have fully died down.

Propagating Crocus

Crocus corms are increased by offsets or by sowing seed.

To propagate named varieties, dig up the corms when dormant, then remove and replant the offsets.

Seed can be sown in autumn. Sow ripe seed in trays of light sandy loam and place under shelter out-of-doors, until late autumn. Protect in a cold frame over winter, then plant out the following autumn in a reserve bed. Offsets can flower the following season but seedlings usually take three or four years to bloom.

Note: The seeds and corms of Colchicums are poisonous.

Popular Varieties of Crocus Grown in the UK

There are many species and varieties of these colourful flowering plants.

Autumn Flowering Crocus Varieties (September to November)

C. kotschyanus (zonatus), pale lilac pink flowers (September). Ideal for naturalizing.

C. sativus (Saffron crocus), purplish-lilac flowers veined violet with bright red centre (September, October).

C. byzantinus, purple lilac flowers (September, October).

C. speciosus (large autumn crocus), many coloured varieties (September, October).

C. speciosus aitchisonii, bright blue flowers, with pointed petals.

C. speciosus albus, white flowers.

C. longiflorus, lilac scented flowers (October-November). Long flowering period.

C. medius, lilac-purple flowers (October-November).

C. banaticus, blue-purple flowers (early autumn).

Winter Flowering Crocus Varieties (December to February)

C. ancyrensis, orange yellow flowers (February). An ideal container variety.

C. aureus, yellow flowers (January, February). Easily propagated by seed.

C. etruscus, blue-violet flowers (February).

C. laevigatus, pale lilac (January).

C. imperati, lilac and brown striped flowers (January, February).

C. ochroleucus, creamy-white flowers with orange base (November, December).

C. sieberi ‘Hubert Edelsten’, violet-purple flowers with a yellow throat and white bands on outer petals (January to February).

C. biflorus, mostly white flowers (February, March).

Spring Flowering Crocus Varieties (March – April)

C. chrysanthus, golden-yellow rounded flowers (January to March). Good rock-garden plants.

C. susianus (cloth of gold) orange flowers, veined with bronze (February to March).

C. aureus, shades of yellow, blue and purple, also white and striped (February – April).

C. minimus, deep purple and lavender flowers (late Spring). A miniature species 2in (5 cm) high, well suited to the rock garden.

C. vernus (Dutch crocus) shades of purple and lilac flowers (early to late spring).

C. biflorus (Scotch crocus) Flowers white or blue with purple veining (early spring).

BULK BUY Dutch Crocus Mixed

A mixed selection of all Dutch Crocus colours. Plant en masse for a beautiful spring display. It is always better to be generous with Crocus plantings.

Dutch Crocus are invaluable early flowers, they are among the first of the spring blooms to open (or the last of winter, depending on where you live). They flower just after the species Crocus and Galanthus.

Once established, these delicate beauties can produce up to four flowers a bulb. Dutch Crocus blooms are the largest of the Crocus, and they are one of the easiest to grow.

Choose a relatively sunny spot with well drained soil. Dutch Crocus will tolerate light shade, such as under deciduous trees, especially in more temperate zones.

The bulbs don’t need to be lifted every year, if they are protected from the hot summer sun and have good drainage you can leave them in the ground, this is known as naturalising. If you allow them to naturalise like this, you will only have dig and divide them after four or five years. To protect the bulbs from summer sun you could add mulch, grow them in combination with perennials or beneath deciduous trees.

We advise you protect new growth from slugs and snails and to fertilise annually in winter and spring.

Dutch Crocus grow best in cool to temperate climates. They look good in rockeries, beds and pots. Planting in a lawn beneath a deciduous tree will really create a wow factor. Thankfully the lawn does not grow very fast at that time of year and, because the foliage takes around five weeks to fade you shouldn’t mow, but you will need to resist the urge to tidy! We mow a border around our patch which makes the whole thing appear like a feature as they fade.

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