- Bleeding Heart Vine
- Non-Flowering Bleeding Heart: How To Get A Bleeding Heart To Bloom
- Reasons for No Blooms on Bleeding Heart Plants
- How to Get a Bleeding Heart to Bloom
- Bleeding heart
- Bleeding Heart
- Colorful Combinations
- Dicentra Care Must-Knows
- More Varieties of Bleeding Heart
- Plant Bleeding Heart With:
- Vermont Garden Journal: Bleeding Hearts Bloom In Our Spring Gardens
Bleeding Heart Vine
They die out almost as soon as they flower, making it one of the quickest flowers to complete their entire bloom cycle.
Bleeding Heart vine is botanically called as Clerodendrum thomsoniae is also known as The glory bower which is an attractive bushy, tropical looking twining vine.
Kingdom Plantae Division Magnoliophyta Family Verbenaceae (Verbena family) Genus Clerodendrum Species thomsoniae
There are over 400 species of Bleeding Hearts, including climbers, shrubs, herbaceous plants and trees. Bleeding Heart Vine flowers are mostly from warm climates and are summer flowers. Most, of the Bleeding Heart Vine, plants have very showy flowers. Bleeding Heart Vine blooms profusely with rich crimson corollas peeking from white, balloon-like calyxes. The flowers are seen as clusters of red and white.
Bleeding Heart Vine should not be confused with Bleeding Heart, in the Decentra genus. Bleeding Heart vine is a complete different plant as they are tropical flowers, and the former is not.
This is a twining, evergreen shrub, originating from West Africa. Its leaves are dark green colored and are 5-7 inches in length. They are good climbing plants and are relatively easier to grow as they are sun-loving plants. They are quite aesthetic too, as they produce tons of flowers which can be easily trimmed to the desired size. Its fruits are black and contain black seeds.
Growing Bleeding Heart Vines
- Select a sunny and well drained soil for planting.
- Bleeding Heart vine flower needs good sunlight.
- Good amount of water is needed to the plant.
- Bleeding Heart vines is mainly propagated by cuttings in late sunny day and well drained soil for the spring or summer.
- Bleeding Heart vines can also propagated from seed in spring.
- Feed the Bleeding Heart vine flower plant every 2 weeks.
- Pruning is also necessary, in winter.
- Cuttings will root in 10-14 days, but there should be a mist.
- After the cuttings root in the container, supply the plant with good fertilizer.
- Place the plant in the container and water it.
- Provide 2 inches of mulch around the plant.
Caring Bleeding Heart Vines
- To have a great bloom, cut the plant intermittently after blooming.
- In mid spring give plenty of water.
- Pruning should be done in late winter, so as to encourage new growth.
Non-Flowering Bleeding Heart: How To Get A Bleeding Heart To Bloom
Bleeding heart is one of the most charming wildflowers in North America. These emotive flowers are found in shady meadows and open forest edges. They bloom in spring and can continue to flower in summer if temperatures are cool and they are in a shady location. However, all good things must come to an end, and hot weather signals the time for the plant to cease flowering and go into dormancy. What other reasons might there be for a non-flowering bleeding heart? Read on to learn more.
Reasons for No Blooms on Bleeding Heart Plants
Bleeding heart was introduced as an ornamental to the West in the mid 1800’s. It became a very popular landscape plant and is still considered a wonderful addition to the woodland perennial garden. These attractive plants enter dormancy when hot temperatures arrive. This is a natural part of the plant’s life cycle, but you can learn how to get a bleeding heart to bloom in the warm season with a little trickery (as explained further on).
Some cultural problems could also be the reason a bleeding heart isn’t blooming or it might be a tiny invasion of insects or disease.
Bleeding heart plants take a season or two to establish as a rule, and you will find a bleeding heart plant not flowering in the first season. Over time, the plant will get larger and require division for better displays and more flowers. If your bleeding heart isn’t blooming, it might need division or it might simply be too young. Divide the roots in early spring or in fall after the foliage has died back.
Heavy soil and overly moist locations can also cause diminished flowering. Bleeding hearts favor moist, rich soil but cannot tolerate boggy conditions. Plants growing in full sun will also struggle to bloom long. Plant the ornamental in a shady to dappled location for better displays.
Bugs, Disease and a Non-Flowering Bleeding Heart
Insects and disease aren’t usually the reason for no blooms on bleeding heart, but they can contribute to diminished plant health and reduced vigor. These conditions may produce a reduced crop of flowers.
Aphids are the biggest pest of bleeding heart. Their sucking activity can affect the leaves and stems of the plant and, over time, may pose a problem to flowers. Look for tarry honeydew and tiny moving bumps as indicators of an insect infestation.
Leaf spot and Fusarium wilt are two common diseases of bleeding heart. These affect the leaves and should not be a cause for a bleeding heart plant not flowering unless the disease has gotten so out of hand the plant is dying.
How to Get a Bleeding Heart to Bloom
Bleeding heart plants enliven the landscape in spring and then die back as the season progresses. You can either plant late season bloomers in the area to cover their dormancy or try a little trick.
As soon as the blooms slow down and the foliage begins to yellow, cut the stems back to within one inch of the ground. This may stimulate the plant into forcing a second bloom, especially if the plant is sited in ideal conditions.
Other tips include regular feeding starting in early spring with ¼ cup of a 5-10-5 food and continuing administering this every six weeks. Bleeding hearts are heavy feeders and they like uniform moisture. Cover around the root zone with mulch to conserve water and enhance soil nutrition.
If all else fails, there are several cultivars of bleeding heart which have been bred for extended season blooming.
The first bloom of the Bleeding Heart vine didn’t last long. The flower’s stem was too thin and the flower detached prematurely due to strong winds. In its place though the vine produced more clusters of flowers. Each cluster is called a raceme (rey’seem). A raceme is an elongate cluster of flowers along the main stem in which the flowers at the base open first. Compound raceme or branched cluster of flowers
Shown below is a compound raceme or a branched cluster of flowers. This branched cluster is called a panicle (pa-ni-kul).
A technique that induces the new clusters is the pinching of the new topmost sprouts from a branch. See this entry for more discussion on the pinching (or super cropping) technique.
The photo below shows a cluster and encircled is the pinched sprout. Click on the photo to enlarge.
Here’s a closeup of the Bleeding Heart flower with the calyx now white in color. Click on the photo to enlarge.
Something interesting about the Bleeding Heart Vine is the color of the leaves. The leaves display the color green in a variety of hues thus always arousing interest.
Here’s a rather distinct one.
Here’s some more info about the Bleeding Heart also known as Glorybower from floridata.com
Common Names: bleeding heart, glorybower, bleeding heart vine, bleeding glory bower
Family: Verbenaceae (verbena or vervain Family)
Perennial Vine Can be Grown in Containers Grows Well Indoors. Has evergreen foliage Flowers
Bleeding heart vine produces quantities of large clusters of uniquely attractive blossoms throughout the summer.
Bleeding heart is a sprawling vinelike shrub with evergreen leaves. The plant’s stems can get 15 ft (5 m) long, climbing without tendrils, suckers or root hairs, but rather by twining through and around its support. The leaves are large, to 7 in (18 cm) long, and arranged opposite one another along the stems.
Panicles 4 in (10 cm) across of 5-20 showy red and white flowers are produced throughout summer. The individual flowers, a half inch (1.25 cm) wide, are bell shaped with white calyces and crimson red petals. As is typical of the glorybowers, the flowers have four stamens and a style (the elongated part of the pistil) that extends way beyond the petals.
Clerodendrum thomsoniae is native to tropical West Africa.
Light: Grow in partial shade. Best results occur with morning sun and afternoon shade.
Moisture: Bleeding heart likes high humidity and a moist, but not soggy, soil.
Propagation: Increase bleeding heart by replanting suckers or rooting semi-ripe tip cuttings. Quickest results can be obtained from root cuttings taken in winter.
Long after the flowers are gone, the white calyces remain showy.
Outside the tropics, bleeding heart is usually grown in containers so it can be protected when temperatures fall below 45 F (7 C). It can be kept pruned into a shrub, or given support and allowed to scramble like a vine. This vinelike shrub does not spread as much as some, and is thus a good choice for a restricted support like a doorway arch or container trellis, and not such a good candidate to cover a fence or arbor. The glorybowers in general, and bleeding heart in particular, are among the world’s most beautiful flowers.
A classic cottage garden staple, bleeding hearts have long been a favorite in perennial gardens. It’s easy to see how these plants, with their heart-shaped pink or white blooms, have captured the love of so many gardeners. Dicentra are quick to come up in the spring, and their long stems with pendulous, romantic flowers beg to be admired.
The old-fashioned bleeding heart, D. spectabilis, is truly an easy-to-grow perennial. These plants are quick to pop up alongside spring bulbs and swiftly grow to full size.
D. spectabilis leaves are generally a pleasant blue-green or gold, and its heart-shaped blossoms can come in a range of colors, including pink, red, white-reds, and white.
Perennials That Like Shade
Dicentra Care Must-Knows
Bleeding heart is an ephemeral plant, which means that once summer comes along, it will go dormant. (So don’t panic if your plant dies back rather quickly after it blooms—it’s just taking a nap.)
Interested in Reblooming Flowers?
While the classic poster child of the Dicentra family is the typical old-fashioned bleeding heart, there are other species worth considering, like the fringed bleeding heart (Dicentra eximia). This eastern United States native comes from a shady woodland environment. Similar in many ways to the traditional bleeding heart, fringed bleeding heart comes up in spring and blooms right away. The flowers aren’t quite as obviously heart-shaped, but they are no less beautiful. One benefit to the fringed bleeding heart is that it is not an ephemeral, so it stays up in your garden all through the growing season. This also means that you may get a few reblooms in the early summer if it stays cool, and potentially again in the fall as the summer dies down. The foliage on the fringed bleeding heart is smaller and finer than the old-fashioned type.
The next in this great family is the western bleeding heart, or Dicentra formosa. This is also sometimes referred to as the Pacific bleeding heart, since it hails from the forests of the Pacific coast. Much like its eastern cousin, the western bleeding heart is a woodland perennial that persists throughout the growing season and won’t go dormant when adequately watered. Its flowers are extremely similar to the fringed bleeding heart, but the foliage is slightly more fernlike.
Dutchman’s breeches (D. cucullaria) share many of the same characteristics as its bleeding heart cousins. But rather than a heart-shaped bloom, these woodland natives hold what looks like upside-down pants (or “breeches”) above their blue-green foliage. Coming in a little smaller than the bleeding hearts, this variation does well in shady gardens and is a great conversation starter, too.
Perennial Problem-Solvers to Keep in Mind
More Varieties of Bleeding Heart
‘Dutchman’s Breeches’ Bleeding Heart
Dicentra cucullaria features adorable blooms shaped like upturned breeches in spring. Summer dormant. Zones 3–9
‘Gold Heart’ Bleeding Heart
Dicentra spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’ offers a dramatic color combination. It pairs chartreuse foliage with pink blooms to stunning effect. Zones 3-9
Fringed Bleeding Heart
Dicentra eximia has deeply cut, blue-green foliage and pink blooms rising to 1 foot. It reblooms through summer and fall as long as temperatures are not excessively hot. It is native to the eastern U.S. Zones 4-8
White Old-Fashioned Bleeding Heart
Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’ has the same qualities as regular old-fashioned bleeding heart except its flowers are pure white. Zones 3-9
‘King of Hearts’ Bleeding Heart
Dicentra ‘King of Hearts’ produces a mound of blue-green foliage 6-8 inches tall and masses of pink blooms in spring and again in late summer and fall. Zones 4-8
Old-Fashioned Bleeding Heart
Dicentra spectabilis is a 2- to 3-foot-tall springtime bloomer with long arching branches of dangling heart-shape blooms. It usually goes dormant in summer, so pair it with a plant that will fill in its space later in the year. Zones 3-9
‘Langtrees’ Bleeding Heart
Dicentra formosa ‘Langtrees’ is a white form with ferny blue-green leaves. Like fringed bleeding heart, it blooms nearly continuously if weather conditions remain cool. Zones 4-8
Plant Bleeding Heart With:
This plant hardly grown 40 years ago is now one of the most commonly grown garden plants. But hosta has earned its spot in the hearts of gardeners—it’s among the easiest plants to grow, as long as you have some shade and ample rainfall. Hostas vary from tiny plants suitable for troughs or rock gardens to massive 4-foot clumps with heart-shape leaves almost 2 feet long that can be puckered, wavy-edged, white or green variegated, blue-gray, chartreuse, emerald-edged—the variations are virtually endless. Hostas in new sizes and new foliage features seem to appear each year. This tough, shade-loving perennial, also known as plantain lily, blooms with white or purplish lavender funnel-shape or flared flowers in summer. Some are intensely fragrant. Hostas are a favorite of slug and deer.
In spring, a cloud of tiny blue flowers hovers above brunnera’s mound of fuzzy heart-shape leaves. The plant prefers partial shade but can grow in full sun in cool climates provided it receives adequate moisture. Variegated forms need more shade; in full sun they’re likely to scorch. It is sometimes called Siberian bugloss.
In early spring, the brilliant blue, pink, or white flowers of lungwort bloom despite the coldest chill. The rough basal leaves, spotted or plain, always please and continue to be handsome through the season and into winter. Planted close as a weed-discouraging groundcover or in borders as edgings or bright accent plants, lungworts are workhorses and retain their good looks. The plants prefer high-humus soil that retains moisture. Although lungwort tolerates dry conditions, be alert for mildew.
Vermont Garden Journal: Bleeding Hearts Bloom In Our Spring Gardens
Listen Listening… / 2:30
I like the common names of flowers that describe what they really look like. Campanulas really do have bell-shaped flowers, echinacea really does have cone-shaped blooms and Dicentra flowers really look like a bleeding heart. Bleeding hearts are standard, spring flowers that should be up and growing now in your garden.
There are two general types of bleeding hearts. Dicentra spectablis or old-fashioned bleeding heart, and fringed bleeding heart or Dicentra eximia. Most gardeners grow the old-fashioned types that reach two-to-three-feet tall in spring with heart-shaped red, pink or white blooms with what appears to be a drop of blood at the tip of the flower. There’s even a golden foliage version with pink flowers. The fringed types are shorter, with more dramatic cut leaves but with similar blooms. Plant bleeding hearts with other woodland, shade lovers such as lungwort, coral bells, astilbe, lady’s mantle, trilliums, primroses, and columbine.
While both types of bleeding hearts like a part-shade location to grow, the old-fashioned varieties like a well-drained, humusy soil. The native, fringed types are often found in the wild clinging to rock edges and can tolerate a tougher environment. Also, the old-fashioned bleeding hearts will quickly die back in early summer and go dormant, while the fringed bleeding heart will keep its decorative leaves all summer and may even rebloom.
Don’t bother adding fertilizer to bleeding hearts. With a good compost in the soil, they will grow and flower well. Keep the soil moist, but not wet and cut back the old-fashioned types after blooming once the foliage yellows. Deer won’t bother either type of bleeding heart and they can go years without needing dividing. Move plants in spring before flowering.
Now for this week’s tip: mix radish seed when planting your carrot seed to help the carrots germinate better. The radish are quick germinators, breaking up the soil for the slower carrots. As you harvest the radishes, you’ll be making space for carrot roots.