Do you know your cloudberries from your dewberries?
I moved around quite a bit when I was little, from upstate New York, where I remember picking wild blueberries, to Germany, where we gathered gooseberries, to the central coast of California, where blackberry vines grow in the mountains and suburban lots and our neighbors took great pride in their olallieberry jams and pies. For every spot on earth, it seems, there’s a berry to be picked.
There’s a kind of regional pride associated with berries: inky wild blueberries are as indelibly linked to summers in Maine as fat, juicy marionberries are to Oregon. Try chatting with a Texan about dewberries, and they’ll talk your ear off about wild berry picking expeditions and Mom’s dewberry jam.
According to the OED, a berry is “any fruit that has its seeds enclosed in a fleshy pulp, for example, a banana or tomato.” Watermelons are berries, so are avocados and pumpkins. But when we talk about berries we are usually talking about the tiny, colorful, juicy sweet-tart jewels that we use in pies and jams.
We’re all familiar with the usual suspects: strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries. This time of year, though, especially where I live on the West coast, we get all kinds of oddball berries at the market. What the heck are olallieberries, anyway? What is the difference between a tayberry and a loganberry? What are gooseberries good for? Consider this your field guide.
- Loganberry Harvest Time: Learn When To Pick Loganberry Fruit
- When to Pick Loganberry Fruit
- How to Harvest Loganberries
- Learn About Loganberries
- Loganberry Plant Info: How To Grow Loganberries In The Garden
- Loganberry Plant Info
- How to Grow Loganberries
- Plant care for Loganberry
White and Golden Raspberry
Raspberries, like blackberries and many other thorny berries, are members of the Rosaceae family—just like roses. The raspberry family includes dozens of different varieties, which vary in color from very pale (almost white) to golden, blue, red, and black. The yellow variety shows up pretty regularly at farmer’s markets.
Flavor: Like red raspberries but very mild and more floral, both a little less tart and a little less sweet than their darker counterparts.
Season: June, July, August
Uses: Lighter colored raspberries are extra delicate both in flavor and in texture so they’re better suited to eating fresh than baking. Great for muddling in cocktails made with sparkling wine or club soda, whether they include gin or rum.
If you do want to bake ’em, galettes are a great way to go with all sorts of raspberries, since the fillings needn’t be as sturdy as those for pie. Just lay a round piece of pie crust flat on a baking sheet, add a thick layer of uncooked berries, dust with sugar, fold over the edges, and bake in a hot oven (say, 400° F) just long enough to get the pastry nicely golden.
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Black raspberry isn’t just a sno-cone flavor; it’s a raspberry that’s colored like a blackberry. A reliable way to tell the difference between blackberries and black raspberries is that blackberries retain their inner cone when they are picked and black raspberries come off the core, leaving the picked berry hollow. While all the other colors of raspberries are fairly interchangeable when it comes to flavor and use, black raspberries are smaller, sturdier, and a bit more tart and earthy. Black raspberries are a native species to North America, as opposed to a hybrid like boysenberries, which they resemble.
Flavor: Similar to red raspberries but slightly more intense, tart, and with a deeper brambly flavor hinting towards blackberry.
Season: A very short, two to three week season, generally around July
Uses: Black raspberries are very versatile since they’re slightly sturdier than other raspberries. Where lighter, more delicate berries tend to fall apart and might need more sugar or binding agents to keep them cohesive in a pie filling or a jam, the sturdier black raspberries hold together better. Put ’em in jam, pie, or muffins.
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Dewberries are closely related to blackberries, and while they can be found in the wild across much of US, they’re especially common in the South. The leaves are used for tea and are often called for in folk medicine (they’re recommended for *ahem* lady issues, like raspberry leaf). The dewberry vine grows on creeping canes, lower to the ground than a blackberry plant. The stems have small, fine red hairs in addition to thorns. Dewberries ripen slightly earlier than blackberries.
Flavor: Comparable to wild blackberry, tart and intense.
Season: Late June through July.
Uses: Pie, cobbler, or a syrup for drinks.
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When I was a kid a family friend made a yearly pilgrimage to a thicket of particularly delicious huckleberries in Point Reyes, CA. He kept the location top secret, but I don’t think he would have had much competition, anyway; he came back from foraging every year with a raging case of poison oak. He claimed the huckleberry buckle was more than worth it.
Huckleberries are a smooth, round berry that ranges in color from red to dark blue. They’re almost easier to forage than to find at the market (if you can avoid the poison oak, that is.) Huckleberries played such a large part in the cuisine of the Plateau Native Americans (Idaho, Montana, and Washington) that there still are festivals to celebrate the first harvest—dried huckleberries sustained native populations through long cold winters.
One difference between huckleberries and blueberries is the presence of seeds; blueberry seeds are so small that they you’d never know there were there. Huckleberry seeds are a little bit larger, though you don’t need to spit them out or worry about separating them out for cooking- they’re entirely edible.
Flavor: These sweet-tart flavor-packed berries are somewhat comparable to blueberry but more woodsy, almost vinous.
Season: Early to mid fall.
Uses: Huckleberries are great in pancakes; just add them in as you would blueberries. They’re also excellent in scones, since they’re nice and sturdy. If you want to go savory, cook huckleberries with just a little bit of sugar and serve with roasted meat.
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Elderberries are tiny and blue-black, wonderful for baking and also for making into wine. The history of elderberry wine in England and in Central and Eastern Europe goes back hundreds of years—it was particularly popular in 17th century England as a purported cure for the flu and the common cold. The unripe berries and other parts of the plant have very mild toxic properties, which are neutralized when they are cooked or fermented. Even ripe berries can sometimes contain the alkaloids which will make you sick; it’s best to be on the safe side and always cook or ferment them.
Elderflowers come from the same plant as elderberries, and have a heady fragrance and floral flavor, perfect for infusing into syrups, sodas, or cordials. (You’ve probably tried St. Germain before, but the homemade stuff is worth the effort.)
Flavor: Elderberries are very sour with a touch of sweetness. You’ll need to cook them with sweetener to make them palatable but cooked they have a lovely floral, herbacious, deep berry flavor.
Uses: Use elderberries in buckles, pancakes, pies, galettes, shrubs, and sodas. The flowers make wonderful syrups and cordials.
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You know where you’ve seen these guys before: in jam available in the food section of IKEA. Lingonberries play very prominently in Scandinavian cuisine; you really shouldn’t serve Swedish Meatballs without a tart dollop of lingonberry sauce. Lingonberries are native to boreal forest and the arctic tundra. They are more recently being commercially cultivated in the Pacific Northwest.
These berries are closely related to cranberries, although I think they really seem more similar to gooseberries or red currants. Where I work at Tartine in San Francisco, a visiting Swedish chef recently made Swedish meatballs for everyone on his last night before heading home. For lack of lingonberries, he made cranberry sauce instead. He then spent the entire dinner crestfallen that the whole dish was ruined because the cranberries just weren’t the same.
Flavor: Sour, tart, bright.
Season: Short arctic summer. Farther south you’ll find them in late summer.
Use: Mash lingonberries raw with a sprinkle of sugar and spread on toast, pancakes, or cookies. Or cook them into a syrup, sauce, or compote, and serve as it traditional: with meatballs, elk, or reindeer. (Don’t tell Rudolph.)
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Cloudberries are native to the arctic tundra and only grow in extreme cold weather. They look a little like raspberries, but with fewer and larger lobes and a lovely orangey-rose color. They figure prominently in traditional Scandinavian cuisine, where they’re used in compotes, vinaigrettes, and jams, and also appear in Inuit cuisine.
Cloudberries are so delicate and prefer such extreme growing conditions that they haven’t been cultivated much in the past. They are fairly difficult to find, although they are starting to become more commercially available, perhaps thanks to a burgeoning American taste for all things Scandinavian.
Flavor: Cloudberries are very juicy, and they taste a bit like a cross between a raspberry and a red currant. They are fairly tart when eaten raw with a bit of floral sweetness.
Season: a short period in late summer.
Use: Cloudberries make a stunning deep ruby-amber jam with a lovely, balanced flavor.
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Things get a little confusing here: there are two completely different berries called gooseberries. First are the Eurasian berries: tiny, translucent, super-tart green, rosy, or red berries reminiscent of currants. But there’s also Physalis peruviana, sometimes called Cape Gooseberry, which is a South American fruit. More on those in a minute.
I’ll say it here: Eurasian gooseberries are some of the most under-rated berries out there. Late in the season some of the red ones are good to eat raw, but most of the time they’re mouth-puckeringly tart right off the bush. But that tart character makes these gooseberries fantastic for baking and for savory dishes. When mixed with a little sugar and cooked until soft, they become intensely aromatic and flavorful.
Flavor: Eurasian gooseberries are intensely sweet-and-sour and somewhat floral.
Use: You’ll need to ‘top and tail’ gooseberries to remove the stalk and the remains of the flower before cooking. This can be done with a paring knife or small kitchen scissors. Then you’ll want to cook and sweeten them—gooseberries make a great pie filling alone or mixed with strawberries. They also are fantastic made into a chutney, spiced with warm spices like allspice, cinnamon, and cardamom. Serve it as a condiment for chicken or on a turkey sandwich—or alongside fish like black cod.
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Cape gooseberries are actually in the tomatillo family and come wrapped up in lovely little paper-like lanterns like tomatillos. They are more like tiny, firm cherry tomatoes than they are like most of the other berries in this list. They’re one of my favorites for eating raw; there’s something delightful about opening the little paper wrapping and popping them straight in your mouth.
Flavor: Mildly coconut-y and tomato-y. Cape Gooseberries are quite unique, with an almost creamy flavor and a slight grape-like tang.
Season: Varies widely depending on climate, anywhere from May through September.
Uses: Delicious raw, try slicing into salads. Or sub them into a tomato jam recipe. Want to go sweeter? Use them in clafoutis instead of cherries, or add to an upside-down cake.
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Do you remember the myth of Pyramus and Thisbē? In that Romeo and Juliet-like story, the illicit lovers meet under a white mulberry tree. When the couple meets their untimely and bloody death under the tree (sorry, spoiler alert), the gods stain the berries red to memorialize their forbidden love.
These days, mulberries can be white, lavender, red, purple, or black depending on the type, but they are always 2-3 centimeters long and cylindrical. Asian varieties of mulberry are now common in North America, sometimes even pushing out the native types. Silkworms survive on a diet of mulberry leaves.
Flavor: Mulberries are almost sticky-sweet, though most have an astringency and tartness to balance it. White mulberries are a little more delicate in flavor, both less sweet and less tart.
Season: Late June through August, depending on the variety of mulberry and the climate.
Uses: Mulberries make a great ice cream; since they are so sweet the flavor comes across well even in a frozen state. They are also great for galettes and pies, and are a favorite for fruit wine or syrup. Use them as soon as you get them—mulberries don’t last very long.
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Many of the berries you’ll see at the farmers market don’t occur in nature: they’re hybrids of other berries, created by planting fruit cross-pollinated by two different plants. (For more on hybrids and cross-pollination, head over to this article.) In the late 19th and early 20th century, botanists went on a bit of a hybridizing craze, crossing berries in the Rosacea family (like raspberries and blackberries) to try to come up with berries that had the best qualities of both parents.
Legend has it that the loganberry was accidentally created in the late 1800s in Santa Cruz, California, in the backyard of Judge J.H. Logan. Judge Logan planted an heirloom blackberry and a European raspberry next to each other. They cozied up, and with a little help from the birds and the bees the plants cross-pollinated.
Loganberries have a deep red raspberry color and the size and texture of a blackberry. The vines, which lack the substantial thorns of a blackberry, have dark green fuzzy leaves. The berries retain their cores (like blackberries do) but the flavor is somewhere in between: like a brambly raspberry or a softer blackberry.
Flavor: Loganberries taste a little like a raspberry and a little like a blackberry. Very flavorful and slightly tart.
Use: You can use these berries wherever you’d use blackberries: they shine in jams, galettes, and muffins.
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If you’re lucky enough to be in California in July, you might get to try some Tayberries (Yerena Farms in Watsonville grows lovely ones that they sell at San Francisco’s Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.) Tayberries are a more recent cross between raspberries and blackberries, developed by the Scottish Horticultural Society in the late 70s and named after the river Tay in Scotland.
Flavor: Partly raspberry-like, partly blackberry-like, a little larger and sweeter than Loganberries.
Season:Tayberries have a shorter season than blackberries or raspberries; instead of a continual harvest over a few weeks or months, they yield one large harvest in July.
Use: Tayberries are extremely delicate. If you need to store them, spread them flat on a sheet pan and leave them uncovered in the fridge. But it’s better to use them up, and there are plenty of great ways to do it. Tayberries have a naturally high level of pectin, so they’re perfect for jam and pie filling. If you’re following a blackberry pie recipe, hold back a little on the sugar.
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The origins of the boysenberry, which is a cross between the blackberry, dewberry, raspberry, and loganberry, are a little murky. Sometime in the 1920s Walter Knott, of Southern California’s Knott’s Berry Farm fame, tracked rumors of a particularly delicious large purplish berry to a defunct farm and a few failing brambles in Northern California. He rescued a few cuttings and cultivated them in Southern California, and a star was born. Boysenberries were popular and grown widely in Southern California during the middle of the 20th century, but commercial production has fallen off in recent years because the boysenberry is delicate and prone to bleeding, thus not suitable for shipping far or storing long. You can still find them at farmers’ markets, especially on the West coast.
Flavor: Boysenberries are a treat: super-juicy with a wonderful balance of sweet and tart.
Use: These are really ideal for jam, since they offer such a nice dose of both tartness and sweetness. Great in pies, too.
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Olallieberries are loveable mutts: a cross between the loganberry and the youngberry, each of which is a cross between a blackberry and another berry…basically a whole mess of delicious berries bred together. Olallieberries are primarily grown in Central California, where they have a somewhat fanatical following thanks to their juicy, bold flavor and delicate texture. U-pick berry farms along Highway 1 north of Santa Cruz are a great place to get this highly perishable and particularly delicious franken-berry, but they sell out of olallieberries every year toward the end of July.
Flavor: These berries have a flavor that recalls blackberries but with a deep winey note and noticeable bright tartness.
Use: Olallieberries will be quite pleased if you put ’em in pie; they aren’t too tough or too delicate and they have a fair amount of pectin, so they hold together in a filling well without a ton of sugar or cornstarch. They also make good jam, but be careful not to overcook; that pectin content means they don’t take long to gel and if cooked past the gel point will become unpleasantly thick and gooey.
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The Marionberry is a type of blackberry that you’ll most often see in Oregon; it’s named after that state’s Marion County, where it was developed. (No relation to the former mayor of Washington, D.C.) Marionberries tend to be larger and more conical than other blackberries, and they’re a little juicier and sweeter than some of the other blackberry cultivars.
Flavor: A particularly sweet and flavorful blackberry.
Use: Buckle it, crumble it, pie it, jam it.
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Loganberry Harvest Time: Learn When To Pick Loganberry Fruit
Loganberries are succulent berries that are delicious eaten out of hand or made into pies, jellies and jams. They don’t ripen all at once but gradually and they have a tendency to hide underneath leaves. This makes it difficult to know when to pick loganberry fruit. So when do loganberries ripen and exactly how do you harvest loganberries? Let’s learn more.
When to Pick Loganberry Fruit
Loganberries are an interesting berry in that they are an accidental hybrid, a cross between a raspberry and a blackberry. They were first discovered in the garden of James Harvey Logan (1841-1928) and were subsequently named after him. Since their inception, loganberries have been used to hybridize boysenberries, youngberries, and olallieberries.
One of the more hardy berries, loganberries are sturdier and more disease and frost resistant than other berries. Because they do not ripen all at once, are difficult to spot amidst the foliage and grow from thorny canes, they are not cultivated commercially but are more often found in the home garden.
So when do loganberries ripen then? The berries ripen in the late summer and look much like blackberries or very dark raspberries, depending on the cultivar. Loganberry harvest time is fairly lengthy since the fruit ripens at different times, so plan on picking the fruit several times over the course of two months or so.
How to Harvest Loganberries
Before harvesting loganberries, dress appropriately. Like blackberries, loganberries are a tangle of thorny canes hiding hidden gems of fruit. This requires armoring yourself with gloves, long sleeves and pants as you go in to do battle with the canes unless, of course, you’ve planted the American thornless cultivar, which was developed in 1933.
You will know it’s loganberry harvest time when the berries turn a deep red or purple towards the end of the summer. Loganberries, unlike raspberries, do not pull free easily from the cane to indicate ripeness. The time of year, deepening color and a taste test are the best ways to determine if you can begin harvesting loganberries.
Once harvested, loganberries should be eaten immediately, refrigerated for up to 5 days, or frozen for later use. This homegrown berry can be used just as you would blackberries or raspberries with a flavor just a bit tarter than the latter and packed with vitamin C, fiber and manganese.
Learn About Loganberries
Botrytis Fruit Rot: Flattened, black masses of fungus appear on canes. Open flowers can become infected which in turn infect the berries. Berries become mummified. Burpee Recommends: Prune to improve air circulation. Allow fruit to ripen in an open canopy by pruning accordingly. Remove mummified fruit as the disease overwinters in the berries.
Crown Gall: Rough, wart-like growths or galls appear on the crown at or just below the soil surface. These can also form on the stems or canes of blackberries. Plants can become stunted, subject to drought stress and wind damage. Larger galls may cause girdling which results in plant death. Burpee Recommends: Examine the canes prior to planting for any indication of galls. Avoid injury of the plant. You can remove the gall if it is small enough by cutting around it into healthy wood allowing that area to dry out, cutting into healthy tissue as little as possible. If plant is severely infected, remove it.
Phytophthora Root Rot: This soil borne disease thrives in poorly drained soils and can live in the soil for years. Above ground symptoms include pale or reddish leaves, small leaves, defoliation, branch die back, stunting and death. Burpee Recommends: Remove infected plants.
Powdery Mildew: This fungus disease occurs on the top of the leaves in humid weather conditions. The leaves appear to have a whitish or greyish surface and may curl. Burpee Recommends: Avoid powdery mildew by providing good air circulation for the plants by good spacing and pruning. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for fungicide recommendations.
Raspberry Leaf Spot: This causes small spots to appear on the young foliage. As the spots grow the tissue may fall out leaving holes in the leaves. Eventually the leaves will drop and weaken the plant. The disease is worse when it occurs on the primocanes as the fruiting canes will die back after producing fruit anyway. Burpee Recommends: Remove affected plant debris. Provide good air circulation through pruning and removing canes that have fruited.
Common Pest and Cultural Problems
Aphids: Greenish, red, black or peach colored sucking insects can spread disease as they feed on the undersides of leaves. They leave a sticky residue on foliage that attracts ants. Burpee Recommends: Introduce or attract natural predators into your garden such as lady beetles and wasps who feed on aphids. You can also wash them off with a strong spray, or use an insecticidal soap.
Dryberry: Tiny mites that live in the buds of your berry canes start feeding on the berries as the fruit develops, leaving berries with dried spots or dead sections in them. Burpee Recommends: Remove and destroy any effected berries. Remove all debris and the end of the season. Contact your county extension service for recommendations in your area.
Raspberry Cane Maggot: Larvae are white and legless and turn into small flies as adults. A plant affected by the maggot wilt and become discolored. Swelling in stems may occur. Burpee Recommends: Prune and destroy infested canes. Keep plants well watered to improve plant vigor.
Raspberry Crown Borer: Larvae have white bodies with brown heads. Adults are clear-winged moths with yellow and black banding. When attacked by the borer, plants will lack vigor and will be stunted. Wilting occurs in lateral cane growth. You can cut open the stems and see the tunnels the borers make. Burpee Recommends: Prune and destroy infected canes to prevent spreading. Ensure plant is not under stress as pests are attracted to plants that are weak.
Root Weevils: Adults are flightless, dull brown or gray. Adults feed on the foliage while the larvae feed on roots destroying root hairs and chewing their way through the bark and cortex of larger roots. They can tunnel through to the crown. Burpee Recommends: Check roots for larvae prior to planting. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for control assistance.
Loganberry Plant Info: How To Grow Loganberries In The Garden
The loganberry is a blackberry-raspberry hybrid discovered somewhat by accident in the 19th century. Since then it has become a mainstay in the U.S. Pacific Northwest. Combining the flavors and qualities of its two parents while also exhibiting its own special characteristics, the loganberry is a worthwhile addition to the garden, provided you have the right growing environment. Keep reading to learn more about loganberry plant care and how to grow loganberries at home.
Loganberry Plant Info
Loganberries (Rubus × loganobaccus) were first developed in 1880 when horticulturalist James Harvey Logan was trying to breed a new variety of blackberry. By accident, he wound up producing a hybrid between his Red Antwerp raspberry and his Aughinburg blackberry plants. The result was the loganberry, which has since come to bear his name.
Loganberries are notable for their long-trailing canes, their early staggered ripening, and their thornless stems (though some varieties do have thorns). Loganberry fruit is deep red to purple in color like a raspberry, retains its core like a blackberry, and tastes like something in between the two. The fruits are tasty and versatile, frequently used for jams and syrups. They can be used in any recipe that calls for raspberries or blackberries.
How to Grow Loganberries
Loganberries are most popular in the states of Washington and Oregon, and this is largely due to their growing requirements. The plants are extremely sensitive to both drought and cold, which makes growing loganberries in most parts of the world a tricky business.
The Pacific Northwest provides a climate that is just right. As long as you’re growing in the right climate, loganberry plant care is relatively easy. The canes are very trailing, which means they need trellised support to keep them from crawling across the ground.
They prefer fertile, well-draining, loamy soil and full sun. The fruits will ripen gradually and can be harvested throughout the summer.
Days to germination: Grown from seedlings
Days to harvest: 1 year
Light requirements: Sun or light shade
Water requirements: Regular watering
Soil: Can tolerate a range of soil types
Container: Suitable in a large enough pot
The loganberry has a bit more of an interesting history than most other garden berries. It’s a relatively modern variety of fruit, which resulted from an accidental cross between a raspberry and a blackberry. The plant is named after the horticulturist who first create it, James Logan. Loganberries look a lot like blackberries, or very dark raspberries depending on their variety.
Because the berries mature at various times on the bush, the loganberry has yet to gain commercial popularity. It remains a uniquely home-grown berry. You can eat them fresh off the bush, or cooked just as you would any raspberry or blackberry. The fruit is a little more tart or sour than a raspberry, but is also high in vitamin C, fiber and manganese.
You’ll be starting your plants with seedlings or cane cuttings. These should be planted in the late autumn or very early in the spring to give your plant the best start.
Choose a sunny location that is sheltered from the wind. Loganberry vines can be brittle, and they don’t stand up to high winds very well even with support. An area with fertile soil is ideal, but loganberries are very tolerant of even poor soil. If necessary, dig in some compost when you are planting your seedlings.
Loganberry vines can grow between 6 and 8 feet long, so plan your spot so that they have room to grow without shading other nearby plants in future years. You can always trim the ends to keep the canes shorter if you prefer.
The canes of the loganberry tend to vine more like their blackberry ancestors so they will need a bit of support to keep them from getting out of control. Their vines aren’t as flexible as the blackberry, so they don’t bend well. You may want to train your loganberry vines up a trellis rather than along horizontal wires like raspberry.
Don’t wait for the plants to get large to try and install a trellis. You’ll just damage the roots as you do so. Space out your seedlings between 4 and 6 feet apart, and put up your support at the same time.
To get the most out of your loganberries, you will have to tend to the bushes each season and prune out the old canes. After planting, you can leave your plants alone for the first year but be prepared to start cutting each season after that.
Berries grow on year-old canes, so you can get rid of any branches that have produced fruit because they won’t do so again. After you’ve picked your berries, cut those canes back to ground level. You also want to prune just to keep the bush from getting too large. A big bush doesn’t mean more berries, so keep it under control. Ten to 12 canes will produce well.
Besides the pruning, you should keep your bushes watered during dry spells and give them a good feeding with complete fertilizer each spring.
Loganberries aren’t the best for containers, but if you keep it well-pruned you should get a decent harvest out of potted plants. A large pot will work, at least 2 feet across and a foot deep.
Just like in the garden, you want to prune out any old canes. But instead of a 10-cane bush, keep your plant down to a more manageable level of 5 or 6 fruiting canes.
Give your plant a dose of fertilizer each spring, or a top-dressing of added compost.
Pests and Diseases
Loganberries are generally quite sturdy and resistant to many pests, but a few of the problems with raspberry plants can also effect your loganberries.
Raspberry leaf spot fungus can make as much trouble for your loganberries as for your raspberries. You will see small spots of dark green start to spread on the new leaves. These spots will grow and eventually the infected piece will fall out, leaving a damaging hole in the leaf. A few infected leaves won’t cause much harm, but a new plant can end up completely defoliated if it’s not taken care of.
Spray your plant with a typical fungicide when you see it happening, and cut out the spotted leaves. Any infected leaves that have fallen off should be raked away and destroyed as well.
Dryberry is a bit more specific to the loganberry. Its caused by a tiny mite that lives in the buds of your plant. The mites will start to feed on the fruit as it develops, leaving you with some berries with dry or dead sections in them. Treat your plants with insecticide around the time the fruits are starting to form to combat the problem.
Harvest and Storage
A loganberry bush that has been pruned down to about 10 canes will produce 10 or more pounds of fruit each year. The berries will turn a deep red or purple when they are ripe, usually around late summer.
Unlike raspberries, loganberries do not pull free of their “core” when you pick them off the bush. You can’t use this is as a way to gauge the ripeness of the fruit.
The berries will ripen at various times, so plan on going out to pick fruit several times in order to get all the berries you can. The fruiting season can last up to 2 months. Watch out for the thorns when you harvest, the vines are quite prickly. Loganberries have an annoying habit of producing fruit under the leaves, so you have to poke around the bushes in order to get all the berries. Wear gloves and long sleeves.
If the thorns are too much hassle, try planting a thornless variety like American Thornless. They tend to produce less fruit but can be more enjoyable to manage.
Use up your fresh berries quickly, but they will stay fresh for up to 5 days in the refrigerator. For longer storage, freeze your loganberries, and use them in cooked dishes for up to a year. After you thaw them, they will be quite soft and not really suitable for “fresh” eating.
- Peter Hartley Says:
May 23rd, 2011 at 10:52 pm
Reading the article on Loganberries I don’t see any mention of what is the best PH level for them?
- Jacqueline Says:
January 25th, 2012 at 9:09 am
Thanks for the excellent article. Now, where would I buy such a cutting? I’ll have to check the Internet.
I have blackberries growing in the ground and blueberries in large tubs. I think I want to try some loganberries. Every summer I end up with striped arms due to scratches. My blackberries are vicious but delicious.
- Lynne Says:
May 30th, 2012 at 2:46 am
Thanks, i think you covered all i need to know.I just hope mine fruits this year. Last year i nearly threw it out.It was in a pot and it looked dead to my husband, but i hung on to it in the hope it would come good when planted in the ground.We now have a few new shoots but growth is slow.Fingers crossed it will fruit.
- Logangrower Says:
June 25th, 2012 at 7:53 pm
I have heard allusions to the idea that the thornless varieties can thorn if they are “over-cultivated”. Is there truth to this and if so, how do you “over cultivate” so I can avoid it?
- Richard Fairfield Says:
August 24th, 2012 at 3:41 pm
The thornless loganberries are a hybrid plant so the fruit won’t necessarily produce an identical plant; any fruit which fall on the ground produce plants with thorns. I’ve never persevered with one to see whether it fruits.
- Violet Thompson Says:
July 17th, 2013 at 2:53 am
I have just got some loganberries and planted them in the ground. I would like to know how to stake them as they are free standing at the moment and as your article said they are rather weaker than the raspberries which I have had in my garden for years.
Thank you. Violet
- penny spiers Says:
August 26th, 2013 at 12:41 pm
We have a wonderful loganberry plant (about 4 years old)which has been very prolific for the last couple of years. This year, however, the fruits, although abundant are rounder and black, like blackberries. Has our plant reverted to blackberry and is there anything we can do about it?
- john otton Says:
November 19th, 2014 at 5:57 pm
My Loganberries has a throw back
the cane is simler, Leaves are short squash
one berry in the middle or center of the leaves like a posey
- Maurice Smith Says:
December 2nd, 2014 at 1:48 pm
I planted a new loganberry bush this past April 14′. My vines grew at least 10′ long and looked very healthy. Problem is that it never bloomed. Any ideas on why and what I should do to correct the problem. Very disappointed with my results so far. Plenty of the correct fertilizer was used and constant watering. I have 3 stems that are a minimum 10 ‘ long but not a single bloom. 12/2/14
- Joan Bunting Says:
December 31st, 2014 at 11:24 pm
My Loganberries have finished fruiting and I have cut those fruiting canes down to the ground.
The remaining canes are very long. Is it possible to trim these back, and if so, how far?
Would love to know the answer.
- Appps Says:
January 3rd, 2015 at 12:04 am
Maurice Smith, as it mentions above fruit grows on year old canes so don’t expect to be getting fruit this year, rather the canes it has grown this season will get their flowers next season.
- Jeanine Says:
February 17th, 2015 at 8:06 pm
I planted six loganberry starts last year before the freeze. I’m wondering when they will begin to grow and/or show some leaves? I’m worried they will not be viable after planting last November.
- Jeanine Says:
February 17th, 2015 at 8:07 pm
I apologize, I live on an island NW of Seattle WA
- John Sayer Says:
May 21st, 2015 at 9:10 am
How long do loganberries last I have two plants one has been fruiting for 12 years the other for 2 years?
- Pat Says:
May 25th, 2015 at 2:35 pm
I would like the answer to #10 question
- Texas tippler Says:
September 24th, 2015 at 5:28 am
24/09/15 i grew my plant in the kitchen 7 month ago and now 5 feet high and nearly ripe berries yours faithfully texas tippler
- Brian Collyer Says:
November 9th, 2015 at 12:19 pm
Very intersted in some of the questions and look forward to the answers
- Donna Stewart Says:
July 7th, 2016 at 3:06 pm
Can I plant the Loganberry in Northern Il. zipe code 61062 I want to order some but don’t know if it will make it through our winter Thank you
- tom Says:
July 8th, 2016 at 7:16 am
I have just taken a cutting from an established thorned logen berry bush for next year .Am I doing the right thing. Im a new gardener.
- Ruth Ward Says:
July 31st, 2016 at 2:12 pm
I have a healthy looking loganberry bush for 3 years. It has never produced fruit. Does anyone know why?
- Marion Briggs Says:
June 28th, 2018 at 9:30 am
My loganberries have just started ripening this week but some of the berries have clusters of white on an otherwise ripening berry. Is this at all harmful and what is the cause please. The plant is approx 8 years old and I have never had this problem before. I live in the Midlands (U.K)
Hope you can shed some light as the affected berries look almost as though a part of it has been bleached.
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Plant care for Loganberry
The loganberry is, perhaps, the supreme bramble type of berry, as it is ideal for stewing, jam- and jelly-making, bottling, canning, juice extraction and wine making. The berries can also be eaten as dessert when fully ripe, but may be too tart for some palates.
Opinions are divided as to whether the loganberry is a red-fruiting form of the common Californian blackberry, Rubus ursinus vitifolius,or a seedling from a cross between the `Red Antwerp’ raspberry and the American blackberry ‘Aughinburgh’. The plant appeared in 1881 in the garden of Judge J. H. Logan of Santa Cruz, California, from whom it takes its name. It has been cultivated in England since 1897.
The loganberry produces vigorous, prickly canes carrying 3- to 5-lobed leaves. As flowering is late, the plants may be grown in low-lying situations; spring frosts rarely damage the blossom, though severe winters may affect the canes. Loganberries are self-compatible and yield heavy crops of blunt, firm, very juicy, deep red berries of a rich flavor, from August to September. The yield may be sustained for 15 years or more. The berries do not plug, so are picked complete with core. Picking is best done when the berries are quite dry.
Heavy, rather than chalky and light and dry, soils are preferred-chalky soils induce iron and manganese deficiencies. Well-drained loams and brick earths are ideal. Loganberries love rich soil and respond to generous manuring. Nitrogen is the most important plant food requirement. Mulch annually with farmyard manure in late autumn or feed with 56g (2oz) of fish manure and 28g (1oz) of sulphate of potash per sq. m sq. ft).
A sunny and open but sheltered site is best with protection from northeast winds. The rows should run north south.
Propagation is usually by tip layering between June and mid-August. The tips of young canes are pegged down 6-8cm (2-Sin) deep (or weighted with a flat stone), into small pots filled with rooting compost and sunk in the ground. The young plants are severed from the parent canes when well rooted in the following February. Alternatively, leaf bud cuttings are rooted 6cm (3in) apart in a bed of sandy soil in a closed and shaded garden frame in July or August. Each cutting consists of a leaf and bud with a 2.5cm (1in) length of cane bark devoid of pith. Roots are produced in three to four weeks; the young plants are hardened off a month later and transplanted the following spring.
Rooted tips or cuttings are planted 2-3m (6-10ft) apart in February or March against fences, north or east walls, and up arches. Post and wire supports with wires at 0.6, 1.2 and 2m (2, 4 and 6ft) from soil level are used on open sites. Shorten the young plants to 23cm (8in) after planting, to encourage the production of strong new shoots on which fruit will be born the following year. To reduce disease infection from the older canes, the young canes are trained fan-wise on the opposite side from the old canes. The two ages of cane occupy alternate sides annually. Ten to 12 fruiting canes are retained per plant. Fruiting is on one-year-old canes, which are cut down to ground level in October after fruit harvest.
Pests and diseases are the same as those, which attack raspberries.
Two good varieties are the following: ‘LY 59’, which is a virus-free clone available since the late 1950s. It is free from the debilitating viruses, which reduce the crop of infected loganberries. It is the heaviest cropper-it may yield 8.5kg (17,1b) of fruit per bush. ‘American Thornless’, a prickle-free mutation was found in 1933. It is a pleasure to prune. Slightly less vigorous than the common loganberry, it is an ideal variety for the smaller garden and may yield up to 7.5kg (15lb) of fruit per bush.
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