What is a berm in landscaping?

How to Landscape With a Berm

When you’re looking to spruce up landscaping, there are a wealth of options. One of these is to add a berm to your outdoor space. Not only does it create a pleasing aesthetic, but it’s useful for certain situations in your yard and easy to create. Keep reading to learn what a berm is, how to put one into your yard, and why you might want to take this route to increase your curb appeal.

What Is a Berm?

Even if you’ve never heard the term “berm” in relation to landscaping, you’ve probably seen one and not even realized it. Berms are mounded hills of dirt that typically form a long ridge. They’re an easy way to add dimension to an otherwise flat yard. One of the advantages of this feature is that you get to decide the shape and size to best fit the needs of your space.

Why Install a Berm?

There are a few reasons to install a berm. Since berms are raised, they can be used as a focal point in your landscaping or are also useful in adding a sense of privacy while still maintaining a natural look. A more technical reason to utilize a berm in your yard is to redirect drainage. Berms can also be used to create a barrier between planters or flower beds and people, ensuring no one accidentally tramples your plants. Because of their height, berms also have more soil depth, which is good for planting as well as blocking out sound and wind.

How to Add a Berm to Your Garden

Now that you know what a berm is and all of its benefits, learn here how to create one in your own outdoor space.

Plan the Shape

First, plan the shape of your berm. These look most natural when they follow the curve of your garden, blending seamlessly into the landscape. A good rule of thumb is to keep your berm about four to six times as long as it is wide.

Further Determine Dimensions

Next, further determine the dimensions of your berm. The maximum gradient of this surface should be five times as wide as it is tall in order to minimize problems associated with erosion, water runoff, and general maintenance. Making your berm too steep could result in serious issues, and most are no taller than 24 inches high. Keep in mind that an asymmetric appearance creates a natural and positive aesthetic.

Consider Drainage

As you design your berm, consider the water inflow and drainage your garden requires. Berms can act as miniature dams, changing the influx of water to your garden. A flat-topped berm reduces water runoff and provides more water to plants. Improve drainage with your berm by avoiding compact soil at the base. The use of heavy equipment could be responsible for increasing how compacted soil is.

Break up Soil

Lightly break up soil by digging into the surface of the area along the path of your berm.

Build the Base

Use affordable materials such as fill dirt or gravel to build the base. A shovel or Bobcat works best to pile on the fill dirt, compacting it lightly every so often. Match the layout you decided upon, making it one foot smaller on all sides than originally planned. Then, rake the substance smooth to match the proportions you desire. If you opt to use gravel, cover it with at least one inch of compacted clay to prevent soil from washing through it.

Lightly Compact

Roll an empty lawn roller over your top layer of soil or simply tamp it down with your feet. Since the berm will settle more as water seeps through it, a light compaction is enough at this step.

Plant Your Berm

Now comes the fun part—planting your berm! Establish a lawn over it or opt for shrubs, flowers, and small trees. Be sure to add mulch as your plants establish roots to prevent erosion. This is the time to get creative and add an extra element of design to your yard.

A berm has many positive aspects and can only enhance the look and overall design of your landscaping. Enjoy yours not only for its pleasing aesthetic, but also for its helpful qualities.

Why not try creating berms in your next landscape design? Great for low-lying areas in backyards or wet, swampy areas, which never seem to dry out. What’s a ‘berm’? A berm is a formed earth mound. Sometimes called a knoll, these hilly mounds can be planted with groundcover, shrubs , spreading evergreens, annuals, perennials or sod.

Creating the Berm

I love a rolling, hilly landscape and on the prairies…well it’s flat. Ergo, we decided to bring in truck loads of clean fill (dirt) and wheelbarrow most of it to the backyard in anticipation of creating our own hilly, bermed landscape although it can make your lawn care a bit more challenging.

And, besides enjoying a hilly landscape, certain portions of our backyard were low lying and always filling up with rain water so this made perfect sense.

Fill Dirt

Clean fill can be purchased through local gardening supply stores, garden centers or from ads placed in local newspapers. Many advertisements are for ‘free fill’ so check around. Just make sure that it is ‘clean’ meaning that the fill does not contain large stones, bricks, tar shingles or other garbage.
We had already hauled 7 piles of clean fill to the backyard to start the berming process. Well, not me personally but my husband and his helpers did the heavy hauling.

Raking the Berm

We moved, raked and rolled the fill into place, added a layer of 5-way mix soil and then laid the fresh sod.
I filled in the spaces between the sod pieces with soil and we rolled the sod. Unless it rains, watering every day is most important.
We wanted a center path in between the 2 side berms, so it was important to rake smooth (as best you can) the pathway area.

Outling the Area

Using the same orange contractor spray paint, (visit my Garden Design page for information on the paint) outline your berming area. You can skip this step, but we found it helpful for our ‘helpers’ to see the outline and know where exactly to dump the wheelbarrows of fill.
Begin to dump the fill on the entire outline perimeter. Once the perimeter of the outline is covered with the fill you begin the next section working your way inwards of the outline perimeter.

Careful Considerations

Caution: As you dump the fill, leave yourself an open middle path section. This allows you to maneuver the wheelbarrow. The open middle section is the last to be filled in unless you want to create a path (like we did) with a berm on either side of the path. We created this path to give access to the back portion of our property and to my garden house. Pathways can be created using many different elements: stone blocks, concrete, paving stones, colored gravel, limestone or wood chips, Unless your garden is formal, I like using a small colored bark chips or a colored gravel (very economical).

Wood Chips

Wood chips come in various colors and sizes and dry very quickly after a rain. Should seeds/weeds sprout within the bark, simply rake the chips and the sprouts pull out quick and easy…and no, it doesn’t fly with the wind. Just remember to first lay down either sheets (several sheet thick) of newspaper or landscape fabric. Crushed red stone is another option. It does not track dust but it is more expensive than bark. Once the fill is in place, cover with a layer of 5 way soil mix and roll with a sod water roller.
This next step is purely optional, however applying the MYKE growth supplement prior to laying the sod makes a remarkable difference to the health of the lawn. Use a spreader to disperse the MYKE granules onto the soil (criss-cross pattern). This way the granules can make contact with the sod roots. Thereafter, it is recommended to use MYKE once a season, spring or fall.

Laying the Sod

Next lay down fresh cut sod pieces. It is very important for the sod to be fresh (no yellowing). Many garden centers receive their sod once a week from sod farms. If you are berming a large area, see if you can purchase direct from a local sod farm. Lay the sod tight together in an off-set pattern. Fill in any spaces between the sod pieces with additional soil. Work into the cracks with hand or trowel. This helps seam the pieces together. Roll the sod with the sod water roller.


Water the new sod every day until established (rooted)…about a week or so depending on the sod quality and the outdoor temperature/rain. In my zone 5b https://climateillinois.wordpress.com/2012/01/26/new-usda-plant-hardiness-zone-map/, sod can be laid well into October. It seems like a lot of work, but well worth the effort.
There is a side plug and all you need is a garden hose to fill the container. This roller becomes VERY heavy so be prepared to use your muscles. Rolling the sod is an important step and not to be missed. The sod needs to be flattened evenly or you will get lumps and bumps instead of a smooth flat lawn. Rolling also helps the sod make contact with the 5 way soil mix.

Return to the Chicago Lawn Care Home

Landscaping Earthworks

The ups and downs of berms and mounds By Maureen Gilmer Swipe to view slides

  • For these beautifully planted mounds to thrive, the sloping sides must rise at a very gentle rate.
  • A long, low berm was used here to screen off the unattractive footing of the wall behind.
  • This slight rise was created to keep the moisture sensitive crowns of these cacti above the surrounding soil, and where drainage is poor, mounding like this becomes a problem solver for raising the root zone above hardpan.
  • This designer chose to depress walkways and raise the lawn in slight mounding in order to foil the long narrow look of this yard.
  • In flat farmland, this landscape depends on a large mound on the right to raise the water source for a waterfall just out of frame.
  • This steeper than average berm would fail to support plants were it not stabilized by the use of rock and perennials to keep soil in place.
  • In desert landscaping it’s easy to see how the contractor graded mounds and earthworks to provide enhanced drainage and add interest to an otherwise flat sites.

The term earthworks is collectively used to describe mounded soil used for practical or aesthetic purposes in a landscape. Berms are often linear in nature, much like a river levee, though they may undulate and vary in height. A mound is more like an island rising from the ocean. Mounds tend to be low and wide to facilitate growing plants on top. Before you decide to integrate earthworks into your landscape, be sure you hire a landscape architect or civil engineer to create a detailed grading and drainage plan.

Golf courses are designed by earthwork masters. A beautiful rolling course features bunkers along the edges of the fairways and low berms around each hole. These are the best examples to copy when creating a berm or mound for a new landscape’s contours. Because golf course berms are covered in turf, they must be graded to ensure turf grass will grow well upon its entire surface. Maintenance equipment must be able to easily manage the turf as well.


One of the most common mistakes in landscaping is creating earthworks that look contrived. Rigid, non-sinuous shapes stand out like a sore thumb in the midst of a larger lawn or garden. Berms too large cause many physical problems while those too small are clearly out of place. Your designer knows this and will consider the following criteria for a successful grading plan.

Determine if there is adequate space

The slope of a berm should be gentle if it is to support plants and avoid problems with erosion. Height dictates the scale of the earthwork. You must calculate the horizontal distance up one side to reach the high point, then add the same distance to the other side to get back down to grade again. Added to this is the area at the top of the berm or mound that is not part of either slope. This three part calculation determines whether or not a berm of a designated height would fit in the space provided.

Check availability of clean fill

It is easy to underestimate how much fill is required to create earthworks because it loses volume when sufficiently compacted to ensure cohesiveness. The cost of trucking clean fill can be prohibitive. This is why most berms and mounds are far more cost effective on projects that generate fill onsite. The most common source is the excavation of building foundations, swimming pool or basement.

  • Pro Tip: Where topsoil is a limited commodity, a mound or berm can be created with less fertile soil known as substrate such as rubble or gravel. A layer of clay is laid upon the substrate, and then it’s all topped with a thick layer of topsoil.
  • Pro Tip: For stable berms and mounds, soil must be compacted to about 95%.

Coordinating drainage to work with mounds

Mounds or berms must always be fully integrated with the grading and drainage plan for a homesite. These earthworks often exist to solve problems and protect homes during high water flood events. Berms are particularly important when used to force water to flow away from the homesite or toward key points just like a miniature levee. They are valuable where a homesite may sit adjacent to a drainage canal, ditch, dry wash, creek or river. Be particularly attentive to this when berms are added to an existing landscape as part of a remodel to avoid interference with the existing drainage system.

  • Pro Tip: When grading mounds near existing trees and shrubs, never alter the grade nor disturb soil within a tree’s drip line. Also be sure the berm will not interfere with water that has previously supported the life and health of the tree.


Proportional Tips

  • A berm should be 4 to 6 times longer than it is wide.
  • Maximum berm height: 18 to 24 inches.
  • Create wide sweeping curves and graceful transitions.

Shape – relative to purpose and aesthetics

If you return to the golf course model you’ll see that the bunkers along the edge of a fairway flow gracefully beneath their cover of turf grass. They are all positioned relative to one another. Some of these can be long berms that may be relatively straight or undulate. When used to solve problems, this shape is directly related to prevailing winds, southern exposures and undesirable views.

Non-linear mounds are often oval or in a kidney shape so that the forms can flow like a natural landform. In general, graded mounds used site-wide should be similar in scale and height to better integrate them into the overall character of the landscape. Low and wide on top is the mantra that ensures successful planting and irrigation.

  • Pro Tip: When grading for aesthetics, it is always best to err on the side of a gentle angle of repose that does not appear abrupt, but finish graded to gracefully transition seamlessly into the surrounding land form.

Grading the angle of repose

The angle of repose is nothing more than the degree slope of a mound’s edges. It is considered the same way as a roof, which is expressed as 4:12, which is four inches of rise over twelve inches of run. With mounds planted in turf grass, the maximum slope ratio is expressed in feet such as1:4, which means the slope goes up one foot over a four foot span. It is far better to strive for 1:5 or even less to ensure turf grass maintenance equipment can function safely, and the blades cut without scalping.

  • Pro Tip: Be doubly cautious about the angle of repose if you’re planning to use ground bark or gravel mulch. If too steep it’s impossible to keep bulk materials from traveling downhill over time, which results in a bald top and accumulation at the toe of the slope.

The most common mistake is making mounds and berms too steep to support plants. Overly steep sides cause water to run off before it can percolate into the soil. Insufficient saturation means the root ball easily dries out and is nearly impossible to re-wet again, particularly in hot, dry climates. Mounds planted with trees, shrubs and perennials should be graded as gently as possible, without exceeding a 1:4 ratio.

  • Pro Tip: To make a berm appear more natural in the landscape, vary the slope ratio at different points around the edge of the earthwork.

Peak – Location and shape

Experienced landscapers know exactly how to shape a mound so it looks attractive. In nature, very little is symmetrical, so creating mounds of irregular shape is always preferable. The top of the mound will have a high point, which is best set at one end or the other, and never ever in the center. Sculpt the high point to a flat top so that water applied there can soak in because all excess run off gathers at the toe in a perennial mud hole.

How to Make Good Planting Beds

When you’re getting ready to dig, the soil should be neither too wet nor too dry: a handful squeezed in your fist should form a ball that crumbles apart, yet still feels moist.

If you dig into soil that’s too wet, you’ll compact it (making it difficult for air to penetrate throughout the soil once it dries) and destroy beneficial microorganisms.

You can’t work amendments evenly into wet soil, either.

Garden beds are of two basic types. Some are dug directly in the ground, while others (raised beds) are located in frames that sit on the soil surface.

Digging a planting bed in the ground

When making new in-ground beds, some gardeners always raise them, even if just by a few inches, using decorative stones, bricks, or bender board as an edging. They’ll tell you that by time they amend the bed’s soil, it’s “fluffed up” higher than its original boundaries anyway. The raised soil gives plant roots a few more inches of growing room, and the edging keeps the soil in place.

Other gardeners make mounds as they dig. In this case, the bed’s edges are close to the original soil surface, while the center is elevated; plants can grow both on top of the mound and on its sides.

You may want to create several mounds, adding large decorative stones for accents; in this case, the mounding forms part of the landscaping. As is true for the slightly raised beds just described, the mounded soil ensures plenty of depth for root growth as well as excellent drainage.

In the vegetable garden, such mounds are convenient for scrambling, vining plants such as melons and squash. You’ll also see various types of raised or mounded rows in vegetable gardens; in most, the seedlings are planted at the top to maximize root growth and drainage.

When you dig, start by clearing most of the debris from the soil. Then use a sharp, square-bladed spade or a spading fork to break up the soil to a spade’s depth–typically 8 to 12 inches.

Don’t turn each spadeful completely over; if you do, roots and debris remaining on the soil surface may form a one-spade-deep barrier that cuts off air and water. Instead, turn the loosened spadefuls of soil only onto their sides. Once you’ve broken up the soil, change to a round-point shovel for mixing in amendments and evening the surface.

If you’re digging a large bed, consider using a power-driven rototiller. If the soil hasn’t been worked in a long time, go over it first with the blades set to a shallow level. Spread amendments over the surface, then rototill again with the blades set deeper into the soil.

Once a bed is ready for planting, don’t walk on it. Following this rule will be simpler if you can easily reach all parts of the bed from its borders; if it must be wider, add board paths or stepping-stones to control foot traffic.

Making a raised bed

Raised beds have many advantages. Their soil warms earlier in the spring and drains well; and because it’s usually free from foot traffic, it remains loose and easy for roots, air, and water to penetrate.

Orient raised beds in an east-west direction so they’ll receive as much sun as possible. Construct them of wood, cinder blocks, or other materials at least 2 inches thick, and make them 3½ to 4 feet wide; you should easily be able to reach the center of each bed from its edges.

The bed’s height depends on several factors. If the existing soil is healthy, the bed need be no higher than 8 to 12 inches; deep-rooted plants will grow down into the native soil. If the existing soil is poor, however, you’ll probably want to make the bed higher to give roots more room. The maximum height is usually about 1½ feet.

Fill the bed with well-amended soil; you can use soil from another part of the garden or purchased topsoil.

Amendments should include well-rotted manure and compost or soil conditioner. The soil surface should be 2 to 4 inches below the rim of the completed bed.

Complete guide: Your edible garden


See also: Berm.


English Wikipedia has an article on: Wikipedia


From French berme, from Middle Dutch barm (“berm”) (Modern Dutch berm), cognate of English brim.


  • Rhymes: -ɜː(r)m


berm (plural berms)

  1. A narrow ledge or shelf, as along the top or bottom of a slope
  2. A raised bank or path, especially the bank of a canal opposite the towpath
  3. A terrace formed by wave action along a beach
  4. A mound or bank of earth, used especially as a barrier or to provide insulation
  5. A ledge between the parapet and the moat in a fortification
  6. (regional, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania) A strip of land between a street and sidewalk


  • (strip of land between street and sidewalk): see list at tree lawn
  • (canal bank opposite towpath): heelpath


narrow ledge along the top or bottom of a slope

  • Russian: бе́рма (ru) f (bérma)

raised bank or path along canal

  • Finnish: valli (fi)
  • Italian: banchina (it)

terrace formed by wave action

  • Finnish: rantavalli

mound or bank of earth used as a barrier or to provide insulation

  • Finnish: valli (fi)

ledge between the parapet and the moat

strip of land between a street and sidewalk

  • Dutch: berm (nl)
  • Finnish: piennar (fi)
  • Spanish: berma (es) f


berm (third-person singular simple present berms, present participle berming, simple past and past participle bermed)

  1. To provide something with a berm


Dutch Wikipedia has an article on: Wikipedia nl

From Middle Dutch baerm, from Old Dutch *barm, from Proto-Germanic *barmaz.

  • IPA(key): /bɛrm/
  • Audio (file)
  • Hyphenation: berm
  • Rhymes: -ɛrm

berm m (plural bermen, diminutive bermpje n)

  1. berm, verge, tree lawn, roadside (strip of land next to a road, street or sidewalk)

Derived terms

  • bermlamp
  • bermlicht
  • bermooievaarsbek
  • bermprostitutie
  • bermtoerisme
  • bermtoerist
  • bermzuring
  • binnenberm
  • buitenberm
  • grasberm
  • zandberm
  • zeeberm

Middle English

Etymology 1

From Old English beorma.


  1. Alternative form of berme

Etymology 2

From Old English bearm.


  1. Alternative form of barm

The word above “Berms” is the correct spelling for the word. It is very easy to misspell a word like Berms, therefore you can use TellSpell as a spell checker. This dictionary lists some words associated with the Southwestern Berm Definition: Shoulder of the road. Also common in Ohio, Indiana, and West Virginia . Mar 6, Secondly, I believe that the correct phrase would be “to ensure promptness” .. in Massachusetts), ” berm,” “right of way,” “green strip” and the logical, if unglamorous, “dog walking area.” The usual spelling is “Ish kabibble.”.

Berm definition is – a narrow shelf, path, or ledge typically at the top or bottom of a slope; also automatically from various online news sources to reflect current usage of the word ‘berm. Can you spell these 10 commonly misspelled words?. Berm definition, a horizontal surface between the exterior slope of a rampart and the moat. In fortification, a word sometimes used for berm (which see). berm. Use our dictionary to check the spelling definitions of words. You can translate the dictionary words into your native language. This course teaches English.

What does berm mean? berm is defined by the lexicographers at Oxford Dictionaries as A flat strip of land, raised bank, or terrace bordering a river or canal. Similar spelling words for BERM. bern,; bear on,; Beirne,; Bermea,; berrian,; bermeo. Burm synonyms, Burm pronunciation, Burm translation, English dictionary definition of Burm. n. 1. a. ThesaurusAntonymsRelated WordsSynonyms Legend.

A berm is a level space, shelf, or raised barrier separating two areas. It can serve as a The word berm originates in the Middle Dutch and came into usage in. berm. Pronunciation: (bûrm), . — n. a horizontal surface between the exterior to cover or protect with a berm: The side walls were bermed to a height of Daily Word Quiz: inmediasres; Analogy of the Day: Today’s Analogy; Spelling Bee. Verify BERM in Scrabble dictionary and games, check BERM definition, BERM in wwf, Words With Friends score for BERM, definition of BERM. you also need to improve your anagramming skills, spelling, counting and probability analysis.

What Are Berms For: Tips For Using Berms In The Landscape

You may not have noticed them before, but many gardeners and landscape designers incorporate berms in the landscape. What is a berm and what are berms used for? There are a number of berm uses. They feature prominently in the design of golf courses, for instance, but what about for the home gardener? Read on to learn how to use a berm in your own landscape.

What is a Berm?

A berm is often overlooked because it is specifically designed to blend into a landscape, and because at its essence, a berm is simply a mound of soil. Berms are often linear, always rounded and may vary in height.

What are Berms for?

Berm uses are either practical or aesthetic. For instance, a berm in the landscape may be constructed from soil to hold water in around a tree so the water doesn’t just run away from the roots but, instead, soaks down into the root system.

Another use for a berm is to slow or direct runoff on steep slopes. In this case, a berm is often accompanied by a swale. which will absorb the runoff water.

Sometimes, a berm is used in the landscape to create a natural looking raised bed or to highlight a certain area or focal point of the garden.

Berms in the landscape are also used to redirect traffic, either foot traffic or, in the case of BMX or mountain bike courses, to steer bicyclists to stay on the course. And berms are commonly used in the aforementioned golf courses.

How to Use a Berm in the Home Landscape

There are no hard and fast rules as to how to build a berm. Your landscape will help dictate the shape and design of a berm along with your needs and aesthetic preferences.

There are, however, a couple of things to keep in mind when building a berm in the landscape. Proportion is everything. The goal is to create a long, sinuous, gently sloping structure. In a small yard, there simply isn’t space for such a construct.

Stick to the following basic guidelines before building a berm:

  • A berm in the landscape should be 4-6 times longer than it is wide. It should not be any taller than 18-24 inches (46-61 cm.) in height. Always create wide curves that transition seamlessly into the landscape.
  • Determine what types of plants you want and where, while keeping microclimates in mind, as this may affect your selections. For example, water drains more quickly at the top, so choose plants for drier conditions here and moisture-loving plants at the bottom. Also, berms facing south or west are warmer than those facing north or east.
  • Applying mulch, like shredded bark, will help reduce water runoff and erosion in the berm while keeping down weeds.
  • Draw out your intended berm on some graph paper prior to digging and then make an outline of the proposed berm in the landscape. Step back and see how it looks before continuing to build the berm. This step may seem trivial, but it is a lot easier to map out the project first then to jump in and dig only to start over once again.

Now that you know what they are and how they’re used, berms can make lovely sites for gardens in the landscape.

Dirt mound in backyard

I am from the Seattle area as well. I’ve done most of my career in the PNW as a Landscape Architect. Part of my career involved landscape maintenance just to have a job. Ran 7 crews and I was there hands on for 4 years as foreman/supervisor.

Moles and gophers and sometimes voles become part of the landscape’s soil. They are a GOOD thing. They do not overpopulate. Rarely are there but two of moles or one of gopher. Yours looks like a gopher. Larger hole and running around your landscape instead of your lawn.

These animals eat insects, grubs, not plants normally. If they are there they are eating grubs or larvae that could cause a problem if you kill these animals. When you run out of grubs/insects they leave to go to the neighbors.

I once thought of ‘rent a mole’ where I would take a few sweet little moles and allow them to reduce populations of crane fly larva, aerate and top dress and charge people money for this service. If I ever caught a ‘wack a mole’ person I would probably bury them in the compost heap.

Just sweep the piles of soil off your hardscape. Relax. You’ve got some free service little guys that are wonderful. And I am not charging you money. These guys aerate the soil. They recycle the soil. I charged big bucks to ‘top dress’ lawns and beds. These guys are doing it for free with your own soil while at the same time providing aeration. And keeping the damaging (crane fly larva in your area) in control!

Piles on your lawn or beds or patio? Take a rake and simply flip that soil onto the top of your lawn and beds. There is a reason for the subsurface preparation of hardscapes and this is a good example. They aren’t able to come up with the rest of your patio, just these informally laid blocks.

If you live in Seattle, I gotta tell you you have access the the BEST mulch for ornamental beds and lawns in the world! Call Sawdust Supply and ask about Gro-Co. You are so dang lucky! I was able to tell clients to find another company if they wanted to use bark for mulch. Ugly and oh so worthless for the soil.

This Gro-Co mulch is flat out amazing. More beautiful than any mulch. Feeds the soil organisms. Put this on your beds and your plants will blow you away within one week. It is human poo plus sawdust COMPLETELY decomposed. Perfect texture, dark taupe, no sticks or stones and the best thing is no weed seeds no pesticide residues! There are mulches and composts added to top soil that one can’t grow a petunia because of the pesticide residues.

You are so lucky and if you want to know more, ask away.

Those mammals in your soil are a benefit! Do you have a compost pile? That attracts these animals so if you do want to eliminate them get your compost further away from your home or put it in a composter barrel. Above ground. The soil beneath the compost will be very active with grubs/insects.

What to Do with Extra Dirt After a Landscaping Project

August 23, 2016

Don’t let extra dirt go to waste! It’s perfect for raised beds.

Have you been left with an unsightly mound of dirt after completing a fresh landscaping project? Don’t let it go wasted, with a little hard work you can put that dirt to good use. There are many options for using good quality topsoil. Heavier clay soil, however, may be harder to get rid of. Here’s what you can do.


A berm is a planted hill or mound in your landscape, and they can be used to hide undesirable features, such as compost piles and utility stations. They can also create an easy transition between two areas of your garden. Rock clay soil can be used to create the basic structure. Then add 12 inches of topsoil for planting over the berm, or just use topsoil to create the entire berm. The best part? A berm gives you a whole new gardening design opportunity.

Raised Beds & Potting Soil

Excess dirt can also be used to fill in raised beds. Raised concrete beds are ideal for growing a vegetable garden that’s free of weeds. Raised beds can add height and variation to your landscape, improve drainage and add opportunities for ornamentals. Good quality top soil can be used to make potting soil. Potting soil must be lighter than your regular garden soil, so mix and blend it with other materials.

Fill in Low Spots

Extra dirt can be used to build low spots in your lawn or garden, which will help improve your yard’s drainage. Dig up plants and lawn grass before you add soil, then replant once the area is level again. Make sure to rake the area flat.

Free Dirt!

If you can’t get rid of all your extra soil, there may be gardeners in your local area that would be happy to take it from you. Put up a sign, an online ad or flyer asking if anyone would like to haul your dirt away. They get free soil, and you’re free of the burden of having to move it!

Start Your Next Summer Project with Lehnhoff’s Landscaping

Thinking about a summer landscaping project? Lehnhoff’s Landscaping offers professional and exceptional outdoor lighting, hardscaping, and landscaping year-round. We also offer dumpster rental, bulk material delivery, and drainage solutions. We serve Baltimore, Chevy Chase, Montgomery County, Clarksville, Howard County, Ellicott City, Kingsville, Bowie, Pasadena, Towson, and many other areas throughout Maryland.

You can contact Lehnhoff’s Landscaping for all of your Baltimore landscaping needs by calling 443.921.5789 today! Don’t forget to follow us on Facebook and Twitter, too. 1

Categories: Landscape Design and Uncategorized This entry was posted on Tuesday, August 23rd, 2016 at 8:17 pm. Both comments and pings are currently closed.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *