What fertilizer for hibiscus?

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Many people enjoy plants and flowers. However, it can be hard to keep them alive if you don’t use the right products. Are your hibiscus plants dying, or are the leaves turning yellow?

It’s common for these flowering plants to have issues with regular soil. That is why you need to research and use the best fertilizer for hibiscus plants. This can be hard to do yourself, so we have created a helpful guide.

Here, you will learn what fertilizer works well and why. You’ll also find out when and how to fertilize your hibiscus plants.


What is the Best Fertilizer for Hibiscus?

Did you know that the hibiscus flower was the state flower for Hawaii? This bloom adds some tropical beauty to homes everywhere, as well. You will find that it can be grown indoors and outside in most circumstances.

These plants feature bright, big flowers. To achieve the right look, you need to supply your plants with the proper nutrients. It is ideal to fertilize them throughout the spring, summer, and fall months.

They feature such showy flowers that they are ideal for patios and gardens. You can add a tropical flair to your indoor areas, as well.

Hibiscus flowers tend to be about four to eight inches in diameter. They come in a variety of colors, such as red, coral, yellow, and white… The blossoms bloom throughout the growing season, so you always have beautiful flowers.

Ideally, hibiscus plants require a fertilizer with a medium or high amount of nitrogen (N). They also need a low amount of phosphate (P) and higher amounts of potash (K). This comes in the form of numbers and dashes.

Hibiscus fertilizer ratio: Medium (N) – Low (P) – High (K).

Let’s take a look at this ratio: 17-5-24. This is ideal for your hibiscus plant.

The 8 Best Fertilizer for Hibiscus Plants

With so much information included here, it can be hard to decipher it all. When you’re in a rush or just want quick facts, use the helpful table below. It contains useful information that will help you make the right choice in fertilizer.

Pictures Hibiscus Fertilizers Fertilizer Analysis Links
Hibiscus Plant Food 10-4-12
Dr. Earth Exotic Blend Palm, Tropical & Hibiscus Fertilizer 5-4-6
Grow More 5118 Bromeliad Tillandsia Food 17-8-22
JR Peters 51624 Jack’s Classic Palm Food 16-5-25
HIBISGAIN Hibiscus Fertilizer 12-6-8
Water Soluble Banana Fertilizer 15-5-30
EZ-GRO Fertilizer 17-5-24
Nelson Hibiscus and Flowering Tropicals Granular Fertilizer 10-4-12

Best Hibiscus Fertilizer Reviews

1. Hibiscus Plant Food

The Hibiscus Plant Food is manufactured by Carl Pool. It’s scientifically formulated to provide a well-balanced diet for any variety. You’ll find it has a ratio of nitrogen, phosphate, and potash of 10-4-12.

These numbers are ideal, though there could be a bit more potassium. Remember, your hibiscus plant is going to deplete the potassium in the soil faster than the other nutrients. Therefore, you need a higher last number.

Though the traditional nutrients are important, this product goes further. It also contains sulfur to help optimize pH levels in the soil.

You will also find a lot of magnesium and calcium. This helps the plant build healthy roots, leaves, and stems. Your hibiscus plant will thrive like never before.

Of course, there are other nutrients and minerals included. These consist of zinc, iron, and copper.

This comes in a four-pound container with a resealing lid. One might not be enough for the entire fertilizing season. It depends on how many plants you have and where they are located.

For example, if they are planted outside, you will need up to 18 pounds, depending on the soil and application. Potted palms should take less than a tablespoon to fertilize.

2. Dr. Earth Exotic Blend Palm, Tropical & Hibiscus Fertilizer

For people who prefer organic products and fertilizers, this one might be right for you. The Dr. Earth Exotic Blend Palm, Tropical & Hibiscus Fertilizer is a non-GMO product. It’s the only one offered in the United States.

The product contains no synthetic chemicals, toxic ingredients, or chicken manure. Therefore, it is safe for pets and people. Where ratios are concerned, it is a 5-4-6 blend.

This may not be ideal, as there should be much more potassium (last number) than nitrogen (first number). However, it does work, though you may need to use more of the product.

One of the benefits of this product is that it is handcrafted using feed- and human-grade ingredients. It also contains proteins, multi-minerals, and carbohydrates. These are important to promote healthy soil that will grow beautiful tropical plants.

You’ll also find trace elements and humic acids. Healthy soil contains much more than just nitrogen, potassium, and phosphate.

The goal of this product is to provide you with more flowers/blooms that are bigger. Because it is organic, it also contains probiotics that the plant needs. However, it can smell a little pungent, so it can take some getting used to.

3. Grow More 5118 Bromeliad Tillandsia Food

When it comes to hibiscus plants, you know that you need higher amounts of potassium and nitrogen. The Grow More 5118 Bromeliad Tillandsia Food provides that. Its ratio is 17-8-22, which is one of the highest on the market.

This means that it contains plenty of potassium, which your hibiscus plants will require to thrive. Some might worry that there is too much phosphorus, but it is comparable to the other top ingredients. Therefore, it shouldn’t be too much for the plant to handle.

The one caveat here is that this fertilizer is not specifically designed for hibiscus plants only. Because it is also for tillandsia, it has a higher ratio of the trifecta (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium). It isn’t likely to hurt the plants, and you can use it for more varieties.

Looking at the ingredient list, you can easily see that no UREA is included. This is good because it has no real food use. Plus, it could be harmful to plants that aren’t grown in soil.

Though most people will plant hibiscus in a traditional garden, you can grow them on wood and logs. Therefore, you can use this product on plants that aren’t conventionally grown. It’s also possible to use the fertilizer on potted and garden plants.

4. JR Peters 51624 Jack’s Classic Palm Food

Those who are looking for a plant food that works on multiple varieties will like this next product. The JR Peters 51624 Palm Food works on cycads, such as Zamia and Sago palms. It also works on Date, Queen, and Royal palms.

However, the one thing to remember is that you may not have a palm-style hibiscus plant. In most cases, this won’t be a problem. You can still use the product for potted and garden versions.

This product features a ratio of 16-5-25. You’ll find this is an ideal product because it has more potassium than nitrogen (last and first numbers, respectively). Plus, it is low in phosphorus.

Therefore, you can expect to see lush growth with time, as well as stronger leaves and stems. Of course, the blooms will also benefit. They may become quite large and look beautiful.

You’ll find that this is water-soluble plant food. It contains a blend of the most essential nutrients. These include magnesium, micronutrients, and sulfur.

Of course, you will be mixing the powder mixture with water. You can then spray it onto the soil for effective and accurate delivery. When you order, it comes with a helpful measuring spoon to make it easier.

5. HIBISGAIN Hibiscus Fertilizer

Whether you live in Florida or not, the HIBISGAIN Hibiscus Fertilizer is ideal. Though it is developed for use by commercial growers of the plant, it’s available to anyone. If you’d like to see your plants thrive, this is an excellent choice.

You’ll find that this product is designed specifically for hibiscus plants. It takes into account the unique growing habits. This means that it is going to work for you and your needs.

It comes in a 10-pound bag that can be resealed. There is a small cut-out in one corner. This allows you to easily carry it to wherever the plants are located.

Because the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are so important, this one is 12-6-8. You will note that the amount of potassium is less than nitrogen. This isn’t considered the ideal ratio.

However, that doesn’t mean you won’t see results. It just means that it might take longer. Sometimes, you won’t get as big of blooms as you would with a higher potassium content.

This product does include minors, which are micronutrients. Therefore, it can still work well for your hibiscus plants.

Plus, this product can be applied directly to the topsoil or mulch. You don’t need to mix it with water and spray it.

6. Water Soluble Banana Fertilizer

It might seem strange that the Water Soluble Banana Fertilizer made it to the list. Though it is designed for bananas, it has the right ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium at 15-5-30.

Such high amounts of potassium will ensure that your blooms are bigger and more beautiful than ever before. However, you should note that it is water-soluble. This means that you can’t just sprinkle the fertilizer over the plants.

Ideally, you will mix the solution in water. You can find the right proportions on the package label.

The good news is you can use this for weekly, bi-weekly, or monthly feedings. You will use double the amount for monthly feedings, but that means you have to do less work. If you have multiple plants, this might be ideal.

Though the primary concern is nitrogen, potassium, and phosphate, there are other nutrients to consider. Micronutrients, such as iron, magnesium, and zinc are also helpful. They make sure that the plant has everything it needs to thrive.

Since this product is designed for bananas, you may worry about putting it on your hibiscus. This is understandable, but there is no fear. The fertilizer will work on almost any plants that require medium nitrogen and high potassium levels.

7. EZ-GRO Fertilizer

You’ll find that the EZ-GRO Fertilizer provides the right combination of nutrients in a 17-5-24 ratio. This is ideal for a variety of plants, including palms and hibiscus. More potassium means you’ll have lusher foliage and more vibrant blooms.

It doesn’t necessarily matter at what time you fertilize, but some products do say to do it early in the morning. This product work wells in any conditions. However, it is ideal for use in dark or cool situations.

Though potassium and nitrogen are important for hibiscus, other nutrients are necessary. This product contains a micronutrient package. It’s blended together to deliver the right nutrition for your plants.

Of course, this product also comes with more sulfur and magnesium. These are ideal for creating healthy soil. That way, your plants look more robust, as well.

UREA is a significant concern for many hibiscus growers. However, this fertilizer does not contain any UREA. Because there is so much nitrogen, it’s not necessary.

Therefore, you get four-times more nitrogen. With the added micronutrients and a lot of potassium, this ensures healthy, vibrant blooms.

While it’s not a deal-breaker, the measuring cup comes included. This means you don’t have to use household measuring tools to apply the product.

8. Nelson Hibiscus and Flowering Tropicals Granular Fertilizer

Do you look at the plant food that you put on your hibiscus? Probably not. However, the Nelson Hibiscus and Flowering Tropicals Granular Fertilizer is quite colorful.

This product has been designed specifically for hibiscus plants and other tropicals. It contains 10 percent nitrogen, four percent phosphate, and 12 percent potash (10-4-12 ratio). Of course, there are also added minerals that your plant needs.

These include magnesium, sulfur, and iron. Mixed together like it is, you will see brighter and bigger blooms. Plus, the foliage will be lush, and the vines/roots will be stronger.

You’ll find this fertilizer is ideal for Texas Star, Tropical, and Mallow Hibiscus. However, it also works well on Althea, Confederate Rose, and more. Therefore, it can be used in a variety of ways.

If you live in an area that has dry weather conditions, you need fertilizer. This one works well to help your tropical flowers tolerate the hot sun, dry air, and little rain.

Though it claims to produce immediate results, you will probably not see anything for the first week or so. However, the product is designed to deliver nutrition at the right time. They get an initial boost when it’s applied, and it also works continuously until the next feeding.

When to Fertilize Hibiscus Plants?

You’ve already learned that hibiscus plants need medium amounts of nitrogen and more potassium/potash. Phosphorus tends to accumulate in the plant.

It can also bind to other minerals. Therefore, you don’t want as much phosphorus.

Primarily, it is best to fertilize your plants early in the morning while the temperature is still cool. When using a dry fertilizer, make sure to water the plant thoroughly first.

You should also add some water afterward. This prevents the fertilizer from burning or damaging the roots.

Most people wonder why they should fertilize in the morning. After all, hibiscus plants love the sunlight. You should ensure that your plants get up to eight hours of sun each day.

The problem is that the higher temperatures of the afternoon can cause the water/fertilizer to evaporate. You want your plants to get all the nutrients they can. Therefore, it’s best to water and fertilize when the plants are still cool.

This also means the placement of your plants is essential. You want a spot that is shaded in the mornings with full sunlight in the afternoon. The plant will bloom and yield more flowers in these conditions.

How Often to Fertilize Hibiscus?

Most people wonder how often they need to fertilize their hibiscus plants. Generally, you want to do it frequently. However, you don’t want to add too much fertilizer.

When you do it lightly, but at every watering, your plant will grow well. Plus, you will see bigger and more blooms and don’t have to worry about over-fertilization.

If the product you’re using is a slow-release fertilizer, it’s best to do it four times a year. This includes early spring, after the first blooming, mid-summer, and early winter. We did not review any slow-release fertilizers, but we wanted you to have the information.

Those who use water-soluble fertilizers will likely want to dilute the product based on the instructions. You can use it every two weeks during the blooming season. It may also be best to fertilize once a month during the offseason.

Dry fertilizer can also be used. It depends on the product, but you can usually fertilize the plants every week or bi-weekly. Pay close attention to your plants to determine if you need to feed it more often.

How to Fertilize Hibiscus Plants?

Fertilizing your hibiscus plants is fairly straightforward. However, there are a few tips that will make it easier.

It doesn’t matter if your plant grows in a pot or in the ground. You need to make sure that the fertilizer reaches the edges of the tree canopy. Most people only fertilize at the base of the plant’s trunk.

This means that the food doesn’t have a chance to reach all of the roots. The problem with that is your plant won’t thrive and grow as well as it could. Fertilizer is designed to start at the roots to produce lush greenery and more blooms.

The next thing to consider is the type of fertilizer you purchase. If it is water-soluble, you will need to mix it correctly. You will find the directions located on the back of the container.

It is best to follow them to the letter. That way, you don’t risk over-fertilizing your plant.

Some products are designed to be sprinkled on top of the soil. You will likely receive a measuring cup to ensure that you’re using enough of the product.


It is important to understand what your plants need to thrive. That will ensure that they look their best and produce vibrant blooms that will impress everyone. We’ve reviewed eight different products to help you decide which one is ideal for your needs.

Though there were many options available, the best hibiscus fertilizer is likely to be EZ-GRO fertilizer. We looked at a variety of things when choosing the right fertilizer for hibiscus plants.

Of course, our primary concern was the ratio of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphate. This product had the highest amount of potassium while being low in phosphorus. It also had an average percentage of nitrogen.

However, we also considered the micronutrient package to be helpful. You need a variety of minerals and nutrients to help your plants thrive. If you follow the directions and pay close attention to when and how often to feed, your hibiscus plants will be amazing.

The simplest approach to hibiscus fertilizing, obviously, is to use a single.formulation all year round. A complete balanced fertilizer such as 6-6-6 or 8-8-8 will give good results, but on alkaline sandy soils a fertilizer with slightly more potash than nitrogen may be better. If you can find it, a fertilizer low in phosphorus is much more desirable. The fertilizer you select should contain more ammoniacal than nitrate nitrogen, and at least 20% to 30% of the total nitrogen should be in the water insoluble form. The fertilizer should derive all its potassium from sources other than muriate of potash in order to keep its chlorine content as low as possible.

A balanced mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash will be inadequate unless it contains certain other essential elements, such as magnesium, manganese, copper, zinc, and iron. Magnesium is especially important and a fertilizer should contain at least 2-4% magnesium as MgO and smaller amounts of the minor elements. The use of a fertilizer containing the minor elements in the proper proportions will minimize the need for foliar sprays and minor element additives. GU 49 iron is desirable as one of the sources of iron. On alkaline soils an acid-forming fertilizer may be beneficial.

Applying the Fertilizer
The key to success with hibiscus is to fertilize lightly and often. The idea is to maintain a fairly constant supply of nutrients at a level which promotes good blooming. Hibiscus will not bloom well if they are given either too much or too little nitrogen. The proper amount of fertilizer for a given plant is not absolute but depends upon a number of factors, including the size of the plant and the conditions under which it is growing. Plants growing in full sun need more fertilizer than plants growing in part shade, and hibiscus need more fertilizer in the summer than they do in the winter, since they grow relatively slowly in the shorter and cooler days of winter.

How often to fertilize. Hibiscus should be fertilized frequently, at least once a month throughout the growing season, and the schedule should be kept up regularly. Heavy rains will leach nutrients out of the root zone of plants so it is recommended that fertilizer be applied somewhat more often during the growing season. Remember that numerous light applications of fertilizer are always better than a few heavy applications.

How much fertilizer to apply depends upon a number of factors, including the size of the plants, the frequency of application, the time of the year, and the analysis of the fertilizer being used. If your plants are not flowering when they should be but are lush and dark green and are growing vigorously, you may be applying too much fertilizer high in nitrogen. On the other hand, if your plants are flowering but only poorly and are stunted and light green or yellowish, you may not be applying enough fertilizer.

As a general rule, established hibiscus plants may each be given from 1/4 cup of fertilizer once a month, but small newly planted hibiscus should be given much less than this. If you use a high analysis fertilizer you should also apply proportionately less. Remember that plants need very little fertilizer in the winter months.

How to apply. The fertilizer can be applied directly on top of the soil or mulch. It should be sprinkled evenly under and slightly beyond the spread of the branches, but it should be kept off the foliage and well away from the trunks of the plants. A good rule is to apply the fertilizer in a circle which extends from halfway in from the edge of the drip line to an equal distance beyond.

Never apply fertilizer to dry soil. Be sure to water your hibiscus well before and after fertilizing to reduce the chance of burning your plants. Never depend on future rains.

Salt burn. Too much fertilizer or inadequate watering when the fertilizer is applied may result in an accumulation of soluble salts in the soil, causing damage to roots and marginal or tip burn on the leaves. The symptoms of fertilizer burn are the same as those of drought, since plants cannot absorb water if excessive salts are present in the soil.

Liquid Fertilizer
There are several commercial fertilizers available which are dissolved in water and applied as a soil drench, and these liquid fertilizers may be used in place of or in addition to dry fertilizers. Liquid fertilizers are not used much, however, since they are generally more costly and more troublesome to apply than the usual dry fertilizers.

Plants that are weakened due to disease or nematodes, transplanting or water or cold damage will benefit from liquid fertilizer applied to the foliage. Three foliar applications of a complete fertilizer one or two weeks apart should be sufficient.

Correcting Minor Element Deficiencies
Hibiscus, like all other plants, need small amounts of the 7 minor elements in order to grow properly. Plants with minor element deficiencies will not bloom well and will decline in appearance and health. The correction of a severe deficiency, if it is allowed to develop, may take many months.

Iron deficiency is the most common minor element deficiency of hibiscus, although deficiencies of manganese, zinc, and molybdenum also occur fairly often. The symptoms of these deficiencies have been described earlier in this chapter. Boron and copper must be supplied as well, but chlorine is never lacking because of its presence in water and fertilizer.

The symptoms of any minor element deficiency show up on the new or younger leaves of a plant. After the deficiency is corrected the new growth will be normal in appearance, the leaves which matured during the period of deficiency will retain their abnormal appearance but are no longer reason for concern.

Effect of soil pH. Minor element deficiencies are much more common on alkaline than on acid soils. Nutrients may be present in the soil and yet unavailable to the plants, and the pH of the soil is an important factor in this matter. On alkaline soils, soil applications of certain minor elements will be relatively ineffective, and foliar applications may be essential for proper growth.

Soil applications of iron are not usually effective unless the iron is applied in a form called GU 49 iron or iron chelates.

Manganese, zinc, and copper can be effectively applied to acid soils, but these three essential elements must be supplied by means of foliar applications if the plants are growing in alkaline or neutral soils. Boron and molybdenum can be effectively applied to soils over a wide range of pH.

All the minor elements can be applied, if desired, by spraying the foliage. Foliar sprays are quicker acting but do not last as long as soil applications of the minor elements.

Acid soils. Most garden fertilizers contain small quantities of the minor elements, and on acid soils regular applications of such a fertilizer should satisfy the needs of hibiscus plants. Suitable levels of minor elements in a fertilizer would be 1 % iron and manganese, 0.5% zinc, 0.2% copper, and 0.1% boron. (Plants require so little molybdenum that its application will seldom be necessary.) These figures are general guide lines only; the amounts may vary and the fertilizer still be perfectly satisfactory.

If it is determined that supplemental soil applications of minor elements are needed, several good formulations containing all these minerals (plus magnesium) in the proper proportions are commercially available, (e.g. Esminel or other frittered trace element mixtures). Some growers recommend spraying the foliage occasionally with a general purpose minor element solution during the growing season, and supplemental applications of GU 49 iron or chelated iron one or more times a year may be beneficial.

Alkaline soils. In order to correct and avoid deficiency problems on alkaline soils, it will probably be necessary to apply GU 49 iron or chelated iron occasionally and to spray the foliage regularly with a minor element solution which is high in iron and manganese and contains smaller but substantial amounts of zinc and copper. Spray with each new flush of growth or every 8 weeks during the spring and summer when the plants are rapidly growing. It is important to spray the underside of the leaves as well as their tops. A small quantity of spreader-sticker or liquid dish detergent one-quarter teaspoon per 4.5 L (1 gallon) added to the spray solution will help to ensure good coverage of the leaf surfaces.

Minor element nutritional sprays are available as liquids and as dry soluble powders. Care should be used in applying these sprays, for they will permanently stain paint or concrete. When applying nutritional sprays, do not exceed the manufacturer’s recommendation as to the amount to be used or you will risk injury to your plants.

You can minimize minor element deficiencies on alkaline soils by planting your hibiscus properly. Dig a large hole and mix large amounts of organic materials such as peat, manure, or compost into the original soil. This will tend to acidify the soil in which the plant roots are growing. The regular use of an acid-forming fertilizer may also be helpful.

Correcting specific deficiencies. An experienced person will sometimes recognize specific minor element deficiencies and treat them separately. Use of the following materials is recommended:

Iron deficiency: Use chelated iron or GU 49 iron.

Manganese deficiency: Use manganese sulphate. Apply 1/4 to 1 cup per plant twice a year until the deficiency is corrected, or spray with a solution of 30 g (1 ounce) of manganese sulphate plus one teaspoon of hydrated lime in 9 litres (2 gallons) of water.

Zinc deficiency: Apply zinc sulphate. On alkaline soils spray with a solution of 30 g (1 ounce) of zinc sulphate plus 10 g (l/3 ounce) of hydrated lime in 9 litres (2 gallons) of water.

Copper deficiency: Use copper sulphate. For a foliar spray, dissolve 30 g (1 ounce) of copper sulphate plus 10 g (l/3 ounce) of hydrated lime in 9litres (2 gallons) of water. Copper sulphate alone will burn the foliage.

Boron deficiency: Apply borax, 30 g per 9 m² (1 ounce per 100 square feet) or use solubor.

Molybdenum deficiency: Use very small amounts of sodium molybdate.

Potassium for Quality Blooms
Some of the most successful hibiscus growers have concluded that potassium, when present in amounts larger than the nitrogen supply (approximately 1 part nitrogen to 3 parts potassium), has a strong beneficial effect on flower quality, colour, and condition. Accordingly, these growers often adjust their fertilizing practices to provide their plants with more potassium than nitrogen during the hibiscus show season.

The use of potassium sulphate in small quantities is an effective means of building up potassium levels to the proper proportions for the highest quality blooms. One method of getting hibiscus to produce good blooms is to alternate the regular fertilizer with potassium sulphate every two weeks during the growing season. Use potassium sulphate at the rate of ½ cup approximately 120 g (4 ounces) to 22.5 L (5 gallons) of water, and apply one cup of this solution to each mature plant.

If all this seems complicated, remember that many growers use a single balanced fertilizer all year round and produce fine quality blooms. Expert growers may differ in their methods of fertilizing, but they all agree that the key to success with hibiscus is to fertilize lightly and often.

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Fertilizing Container Grown Plants
Hibiscus which are grown in containers may be fertilized in much the same manner as plants in the ground. The simplest approach is to use the same fertilizer as you would use for garden plants. Plan to fertilize at least once a month, applying 1/3 to ½ teaspoon to 20 cm (8 in) pots, ½ to 1 teaspoon to 25 cm (10 in) pots and 1½ to 2 teaspoons to 30 cm (12 in) pots.

The commercial fertilizers which are sold for use on house plants and potted plants are also suitable for container grown hibiscus, provided that they contain magnesium and small amounts of the minor elements in addition to the three primary nutrients.

Hibiscus in pots are susceptible to residue salt burning if they are not watered properly, due to the accumulation of salts from both fertilizer and water. To avoid burning your plants in containers, water them heavily, so that some water comes through the drainage holes and leaches out any excess salts, and be sure to water well after each application of fertilizer.

Container grown plants may benefit, just the same as garden plants, from periodic spraying with minor element solutions and occasional applications of GU 49 iron or iron chelates.

Compost and Manure
One of the best ways to improve the quality of poor soil, whether sandy or heavy, is by the addition of organic material through the use of animal manures or compost. Manures and compost are used primarily for their soil conditioning value. They can be of great benefit to the hibiscus grower by adding humus to the garden, but their use will not eliminate the need for a regular fertilizer program.

Well drained sandy soils are generally low in fertility and dry out quickly. The addition of organic matter will increase a soil’s fertility by providing a favourable environment for beneficial food manufacturing micro-organisms and by reducing the loss of plant nutrients due to leaching. The ability of the soil to hold water will also be greatly increased by the addition of humus. Organic matter decomposes rapidly and ultimately disappears completely in well drained sandy soils. Thus, it may be necessary to add organic materials each month to maintain a good quality soil. The use of an organic mulch such as decomposed or weathered cypress or pine bark helps to keep an adequate level of humus in the soil.

Animal manures such as cow, sheep, horse, or chicken provide excellent organic materials for the hibiscus grower. Composting improves all manures.

Inter-layering about 15-20 cm (6-8 in) of manure with 5 cm (2 in) of soil into a pile several feet high, maintained in a moist condition for 6 to 8 weeks, makes an excellent product when the pile is mixed for usage.

Although manures are used primarily for their soil conditioning value, they are useful also as fertilizer materials, especially for newly transplanted hibiscus which require frequent watering. Manures, sewage sludges, and mature composts can be mixed directly with the soil before setting in plants. The nutrients in these materials resist leaching and are released slowly, so there is little risk of burning the plants. The exception is unleached chicken manure, which is quite high in rapidly available nutrients and which requires careful usage to avoid injury to plants.

The compost pile makes use of kitchen and garden waste and is a valuable source of organic material for the hibiscus grower. It may be started at any time of the year.

The compost heap needs some kind of container with vertical sides, whether of boards or wire fencing supported by stakes. Maintaining two small piles serves the purpose better than one very large pile.

To start the compost heap, build a 15-30 cm (6-8 in) layer of fresh organic materials such as leaves, grass clippings, plant prunings, natural ashes of wood or charcoal (not from the incinerator because of the kerosine factor) and kitchen wastes such as coffee grounds and egg shells. Weeds with ripe seeds, resinous plant material, greasy animal fats, and diseased plants should be avoided. Animal manures and certain fruit and vegetable wastes could draw flies and should be covered or buried within the pile.

Fertilizer added from layer to layer as the pile builds will hasten the decomposition process. Sprinkle about two cups of a complete fertilizer over the compost and water thoroughly. You can, if you wish, add a 2-5 cm (1-2 in) layer of topsoil and a handful of dolomite in addition to the fertilizer.

Keep repeating this layering until the pile fills the bin. Air and moisture are important to the decomposition process, so turn the material occasionally with a spade and water frequently, keeping the pile moist but not water logged. A coarse screen chimney can be placed vertically in the centre to ensure better aeration, or the heap can be ventilated by pushing a rake handle down through it in several places.

The compost will be ready to be spaded onto the garden soil within 2 to 6 months, depending on the waste materials used and the time of the year. Succulent green materials will decay faster than dry ripened growth, and the compost will break down faster in the summer than in the winter. The final product, when the original waste materials have decomposed to the point when they are no longer recognisable for what they were, is humus.

One good way to maintain a steady supply of mature compost is to build a series of three connecting bins, 90 cm, 60 cm, and 30 cm (3 feet, 2 feet and 1 foot) in height. Begin the composting process in the tallest bin. In six weeks, blend the compost and transfer it to the 60 cm (2 ft) bin and start another pile in the tall bin. The compost will reduce in volume as it breaks down. In another six weeks, transfer the material from the middle bin to the 30 cm (1 ft) bin, where it can be stored until needed.


Hibiscus is a large shrub or small tree that produces huge, colorful, trumpet-shaped flowers over a long season. Other common names include Chinese hibiscus and tropical hibiscus.

The eight hibiscus species that are considered to be the ancestors of the modern exotic hibiscus were originally native to Mauritius, Madagascar, Fiji, Hawaii, and either China or India. Similar in many ways to today’s hibiscus, the ancestors were characterized by free flowering, tall and willowy bushes, and the ability to form seeds using their own pollen that would grow into plants that are genetically identical to the parent plants.

Common Varieties

Hibiscus is placed into two groups, tropical and hardy. Knowing which you have can mean the difference between you being able to place it out in the landscape or having to bring it in for the winter. The care for the two groups is about the same, however.

The basic characteristics of Hibiscus are single or double forms with variations in the number of arrangement of petals.

Although the six basic colors are red, orange, yellow, white, lavender, and brown, there is a broad range of color combinations, color shades, and flower forms.

Soil, Watering, Fertilization, & Pruning

The use of Hibiscus as an evergreen shrub is Florida is limited to the southern half of the state. The limiting factor in north FL is low temperatures. Plants are highly susceptible to death when ground temperatures dip to 28-30 degrees. Fences, screens, buildings, other trees, frost cloth, or blankets may help to protect your hibiscus during a few cold nights.

Hibiscus is not tolerant of salts, salt spray or saline irrigation can be fatal to your Hibiscus.

A minimum of half a day of direct sunlight is recommended for the healthiest growth and flowering.


A wide range of well-drained soils is suitable for hibiscus if proper fertilization is provided. A soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is preferred. Hibiscus grown on alkaline soils may suffer from micro nutrient deficiencies; consider choosing a hibiscus-specific fertilizer, like HibisGain 12-6-8 to ensure your plant is receiving important nutrients.


Hibiscus requires well-drained soils, like BGI Select Soil. They do not tolerate saturated soils or “wet feet.” However, they do need adequate water and will need routine watering during periods of drought. Consider watering very heavily once a week during a drought.


The key to success with heavy-feeding hibiscus plants is to fertilize lightly and often. Regular fertilization of hibiscus is essential to maintain healthy and vigorous plants. Hibiscus bloom best when fertilized lightly and often. Irrigation after fertilization with help prevent burn. Avoid fertilization on or near the stem/trunk, spread the fertilizer beneath the canopy to slightly beyond the branches.

HibisGain is the perfect mix for more than just your Hibiscus; our 12-6-8 formula is a great contender as an all-purpose dry fertilizer.


Heavy pruning is best done in early spring, and should not be done in late fall or during winter. Light maintenance pruning may be done at any time of the year to remove diseased or dead wood, rubbing branches, and weak or droopy growth.

Hibiscus blooms are produced on new growth, so blooming is delayed and reduced is the plants are pruned heavily during the active growing season.

Pests and diseases

Several types of chewing and sucking pests that feed on leaves, buds, or flowers can cause issues at one time or another. Generally, pests can be controlled with applications of contact of systemic pesticides. Routine inspections instead of routine spray schedules may reduce the quantity of pesticides required. Pesticides can be destructive to your plant, as Hibiscus is quite sensitive to them.

Premature flower bud drop is often a problem with hibiscus. Some varieties, especially some doubles, are characterized by premature bud drop. Some varieties bloom well during one period of the year and consistently drop their buds are other times.


  • Spider Mites – May show signs of mottled yellow leaves that worsen over time.
  • Thrips – Signs of bus discoloration and falling off.
  • Gall Midge – Buds turn yellow and begin to fall off.
  • Whiteflies – White mess on leaves or white-colored flies near plant.
  • Aphids – Black, white, or green visible bugs on plant.
  • Mealybugs – Bright white, small, cottony spots on leaves.
  • Snow Scale – Bright white, tiny, specks on bark.
  • Fungus Gnats or Shoreflies – Small dark bugs flying around plants.


  • Dieback Disease – Wilted leaves on one branch.
  • Wilt Disease – All leaves on plant wilted.
  • Leaf Fungus – Black spots on leaves

Tips For Tropical Hibiscus Fertilizing

Tropical hibiscus fertilizing is important to keeping them healthy and blooming beautifully, but a tropical hibiscus plant owner may wonder what kind of hibiscus fertilizer they should be using and when they should be fertilizing hibiscus. Let’s look at what’s necessary to be fertilizing hibiscus trees properly.

What Hibiscus Fertilizer to Use

The best hibiscus tree fertilizers can be either slow release or water soluble. With either, you will want to fertilize your hibiscus with a balanced fertilizer. This will be a fertilizer that has all the same numbers. So, for example, a 20-20-20 or 10-10-10 fertilizer would be balanced fertilizer.

If you will be using a water soluble fertilizer, use it at half strength to avoid over fertilizing the hibiscus tree. Over fertilizing hibiscus plants result in burning the roots or providing too much fertilizer, which will cause in fewer or no blooms or even yellow, dropping leaves.

When to Fertilize Hibiscus

Hibiscus do best when given hibiscus fertilizer frequently but lightly. Doing this helps to make sure that the hibiscus tree will grow well and bloom frequently without over fertilizing.

If you are using a slow release fertilizer, you will want to fertilizer 4 times a year. These times are:

  • Early spring
  • After the hibiscus tree finishes its first round of blooming
  • Mid summer
  • Early winter

If you are using water soluble fertilizer, you can fertilizer with a weak solution once every 2 weeks in spring and summer and once every four weeks in fall and winter.

Tips for Fertilizing Hibiscus

Hibiscus fertilizing is pretty basic, but there are a few tips that can help make it easier.

Whether your hibiscus grows in the ground or in a pot, make sure that you put fertilizer out to the edges of the hibiscus tree’s canopy. Many people make the mistake of fertilizing just at the base of the trunk and the food does not have a chance to reach the full root system, which extends to the edge of the canopy.

If you find that you have over fertilized your hibiscus and it is blooming less, or not at all, add phosphorus to the soil to help bring the hibiscus blooms back.

Hibiscus Bright attention seeking

Hibiscus produce huge colorful trumpet shaped flowers over a long season here in Spain. The are a fairly easy to grow in containers for your balcony or in the garden.

Hibiscus Spider Mites

Hibiscus are rather thirsty plants and will only thrive and produce blossoms if they are given enough water. Depending on heat, wind and humidity, your plant may need to be watered daily – in extremely dry conditions – twice a day.

These are tropical plants, so they don’t like to dry out. They also don’t like to be soaking wet, so you have to be careful not to drown your plants. Keep the soil moist, watering your plant slowly and deeply.

If your your plant is dropping leaves, or you’re seeing yellowing leaves at the top of the hibiscus, chances are it’s not getting enough water. If your hibiscus has yellowing leaves in the middle or towards the bottom of the plant, chances are it’s suffocating from too much water.

  • Happy Hibiscus

    – If your plant is consistently producing hibiscus flowers, it is happy, so keep doing what you’re doing. If your plant is not producing buds and flowers, try moving it into an area that has either more or less sunlight.

Hibiscus are deciduous shrubs with dark green leaves; the plants can grow to 15 feet tall in frost-free areas of Spain. Flowers may be up to 6 inches diameter, with colors ranging from yellow to peach to red. Hibiscus can be planted singly or grown as a hedge plant; they can also be pruned into a single-stemmed small tree. The flowers are attractive to butterflies.

How to Propagate Hibiscus From Cuttings in Water(With Updates)

DAIZZ’S TIPS:-The large, colorful blossoms of Hibiscus create an eye-catching display during summer, attracting hummingbirds and butterflies and providing the look of a tropical paradise, no matter what the variety. Hibiscus plants are members of the Mallow family, and there are many different species that are used in gardening, agriculture, and manufacturing. WITH THESE FEW SIMPLE TIPS GROW HIBISCUS CUTTINGS IN WATER…:)

Repoting your Hibiscus plants

This video shows how to repot a plant that is root bound. We go through the process step by step and at the end you’ll end up with a healthy plant!

Hibiscus Paperback

Journal / notebook with 150 lined pages, great for recording all your important details. Wild Pages Press are publishers of unique journals and notebooks, stylish and elegant, compact so they can be carried for everyday use.

If you are attempting to grow cutting in water you should read what is said on the above link.

Hibiscus can suffer if there PH is to low it should be at about 6.5 but never over 7.00.

Hibiscus and other acid-loving plants needs acidic fertilizers. For instance, eggshells are almost 100% calcium carbonate, one of the main ingredients in agricultural lime; vinegar has acetic acid; & coffee not only lowers your soil pH ,it also enriches it with nitrogen,magnesium and potassium.
Above are some of the accidic fertilizers which can be made at home with low cost for your plants.

Epsom salt fertilizer:

1 table spoon Epsom salt
1 gallon of water

Combine the Epsom salt and water and use this solution to water your plants. repeat once a month. Epsom salt is made up of magnesium and sulphate-both vital plant nutrients.

Power 1Kg Health Epsom Salts.

Click above to order.

Option 2: Coffee Ground Fertilizer

used coffee grounds

Spread news paper, then spread used coffee grounds out on the paper and allow them to dry completely in sunlight for about 2-3 days. Sprinkle the coffee ground around the base of your plant.

Option 3: Eggshell Fertilizer for your Hibiscus.

Egg shell fertilizer:used for all kind of plants

Egg shells

Save your egg shells and allow them to dry. Place the dried shell in the blender and pulse until they are turned to fine powder. Sprinkle in your garden. Eggshells are made up almost only of calcium carbonate.

Option 4: Vinegar Fertilizer for your Hibiscus

Vinegar as fertilizer: used for houseplants and vegetable plants and Hibiscus

1 table spoon white vinegar
1 gallon of water

Combine the white vinegar and water. use the solution to water your plants. Repeat every three months, the acetic acid in vinegar works to increase the acidity of the soil.

Test your soil. The kit below is what I use and is fairly inexpensive.

Soil Test Kit

MobileFDL 3-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter with Plant Light & PH Test Gauge Function, Suitable for Testing pH Acidity, Moisture & Sunlight for Gardening, Farming, indoor & outdoor, No Battery Needed.

  • Soil Level: Measure soil’s moisture, pH and light by just plugging in the probe.
  • Scientifically Accurate: Easy to read moisture, ph and light levels, promotes healthy plants
  • NO Battery Required: No batteries or electricity needed, plug and read.
  • Let you know your soil: when to water, control PH level, determine if plant getting adequate light.
  • Ideal Tool: Compact and portable design for indoor/outdoor use.

Spain info covers local towns with local accommodation, plus Spain info also covers info local days out in Spain on the Mediterranean. Spain info with information on gardening in Spain Mediterranean style. Furthermore we offer information on cooking Mediterranean style.
In addition Spain info also covers Bowls Clubs Golf Go Karting fishing Caves and other sports here in the Mediterranean.
Finally Spain info also lists the Local Hot Water Spas many of them dating back to Roman times. Spain Info, San Francisco De Asis, Urb Marina, San Fulgencio, 03177, Alicante, Spain

Q. What do you suggest for a 3-foot circle where I used to have a hibiscus? A recent column said to keep hibiscus away from concrete. What do you do to change the soil? What can I grow there? — Jonathan Green, Lauderhill

A. Alkaline soil can be amended somewhat by acid fertilizer, but it always will revert to alkaline after the fertilizer is used up. The smart thing is to plant an alkaline-tolerant plant in place of the hibiscus. Good small plant choices to 3 feet tall include Indian hawthorn, with white flowers, and ruellia, with blue flowers. Larger plants include variegated arboricola to 7 to 8 feet tall with green and yellow leaves that can be pruned, firespike to 6 feet tall with red flowers, red compact jatropha to 8 feet tall.

Q. Where can I purchase a young gumbo limbo about 3 to 5 feet tall? — Gladys Tress, Boca Raton

A. J&B; Growers, 4939 125 Ave. S., Lake Worth, 561-793-0544, has trees in your size range.

Q. My desert rose has dry leaves and white spots. What should I do? — Paulette Siwek, Margate

A. Spray with Orthene for mealybugs, which are affecting the plant’s growth. Follow label directions exactly.

Q. Are the pineapples on a variegated pineapple edible? Can they be started from the tops like regular pineapples? — Joyce Perlman, Lauderhill

A. The pineapples are edible and can be started the same way as other pineapples.

Q. My Florida gardenias are doing variably. The first two look OK and the third has few flowers and yellow leaves. There is something on the undersides of the leaves that turns them black and there are some holes in the leaves. I have tried Orthene with no results. — Sylvia Goldberg, Boca Raton

A. Your Florida gardenias are planted right up against the house. They are acid-loving plants and will need an ixora/gardenia fertilizer in March, June and October. If they do not improve, transplant them at least 5 to 6 feet away from any concrete. Orthene should take care of the scale or mealybug that is attacking the plants. Repeat treatment in 10 days. A strong jet of water should wash off the black leaves and the dead scale/mealybug bodies. The holes in the leaves could be from caterpillars. Try thuricide for control.

Gardening question? Mail to: Robert Haehle, Home & Garden section, Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293. Include your full name and address and a daytime telephone number. Please do not call or e-mail with gardening questions. Personal replies are not possible. Please wrap plant and insect samples in wax paper or paper towels, not plastic. Describe insects; they may get crushed in the mail. Plants cannot be identified if you do not send a photograph. We may use the pictures to illustrate your question; photos cannot be returned.

Feeding and Fertilizing

Hibiscus Plant Care

A Healthy Hibiscus Bush ~ ‘Saffron’

Exotic hibiscus are vigorous growers that produce many huge and vividly colored flowers. It takes regular feeding to provide the building blocks for all this growth, color pigmentation, and strong enough wood to support the heavy flowers. There is a very limited amount of plant nutrition in a pot. There is often none at all in a potting mix made solely of peat moss, composted bark, coco coir, and perlite. The peat moss, composted bark, and coco coir are not sources of food for plants – they are simply there to secure the roots and to hold water and food for the roots to absorb. It is up to you to provide the food your plant needs.

What do Hibiscus Need?

Lots of Potassium:

Hibiscus have a voracious need for potassium – that is the third or last number in the formulas often given on fertilizer containers. Potassium assists in almost every part of plant growth and metabolism. Potassium assists in photosynthesis, the plant’s process that uses sunlight and water to create sugars for food. These sugars are then used to build every part of the plant, and hibiscus, with their complex, colorful, huge flowers need more potassium than most plants to assist in these building processes. Potassium also draws water into every plant cell, keeping each cell plump, hydrated, and healthy, which in turn makes the plant lusher and prettier, as well as more resistant to drought and disease. Potassium, amazingly, is involved in almost every type of transport in a plant, moving food, nutrients, and chemicals all through every part of the plant. The strangest thing about potassium is that it isn’t actually built into any part of the plant! It functions by floating as “free ions” through all the plant’s systems, locking into this chemical or that chemical to make this process or that process work. When a plant undergoes stress, loses water, wilts, or looks sickly, these free potassium ions can be easily lost and it is up to us to replace them for our plants. So keeping enough potassium in our hibiscus, particularly during times of heavy blooming, can be challenging. Almost no commercial fertilizers contain enough potassium to keep hibiscus as healthy as we want them to be. At HVH we had to develop our own formula to get the potassium we needed for our own hibiscus, and over time, at the request of customers, we began to offer it for sale. This is our HVH Special Blend Fertilizer – the fertilizer we developed for use in our greenhouses.

Very Little Phosphorus:

Too much Phosphorus
causes chlorotic, starving hibiscus plants
that stop blooming.

Phosphorus is another important issue with hibiscus – hibiscus do not tolerate phosphorus well, and in high doses, it will slowly damage hibiscus plants over time. One of the most common mistake novice hibiscus-growers make is to use “Superbloom” or “Bloom Booster” fertilizers. These products contain extremely high proportions of phosphorus and are very damaging to hibiscus. We did a careful trial of phosphorus some years ago at HVH, in order to find out what the optimum levels of phosphorus would be for root and flower development. We intended to gradually increase phosphorus with each watering over a period of time, expecting to find improved blooming. Instead we watched the hibiscus go downhill within a couple of weeks of increasing phosphorus! It was shocking how quickly and how severely the phosphorus sickened our plants! As the trial continued, the hibiscus became stunted, their leaves yellowed, and they looked terrible! When we did further research on the effects of phosphorus, we found out that in several species of plants, phosphorus ties up other minerals and nutrients, such as iron, before the roots can absorb them. So our hibiscus were being slowly starved to death. No matter how many nutrients we put in their fertilizer, their roots were absorbing less and less of everything the plants needed. This was enough to convince us that hibiscus need to be protected from high amounts of phosphorus. Bottom line – don’t use high phosphorus fertilizers claiming to be bloom enhancers! They may do something for some species of plants, but for hibiscus they are a disaster waiting to happen.

Medium Amounts of Nitrogen:

Fertilizer Burn on Hibiscus Leaves
Too much Nitrogen turns the edges of the leaves brown

All living cells use nitrogen, and all plants need plenty of nitrogen. Plants use nitrogen in their proteins, enzymes, in cholorophyll, and in almost all of their metabolic processes. Too much nitrogen can “burn” leaves, the familiar “fertilizer burn” that turns the leaf edges dark brown. But too little nitrogen can bring plant growth to a halt. So the goal is to provide enough for optimum growth without overdoing it and burning the plant. For hibiscus, this means a middle-ranged amount of nitrogen.

No matter what fertilizer you use, always keep an eye out for nitrogen fertilizer burn. If you see the telltale brown leaf edges, drop all fertilizer for a couple of weeks, and water with only plain water. When you begin to fertilize again, use a weaker fertilizer solution – for example, cut your fertilizer dosage in half. Keep watching for fertilizer burn, and cut back your fertilizer until you reach the point where you can fertilize on your regular schedule and not cause any burn in your plants.

How do I Know How Much Nitrogen, Phophorus, and Potassium my Fertilizer Has?

In the United States, the big numbers on the labels of all fertilizers, called the NPK numbers, give the percentage of each of the three main macro-nutrients in this order: Nitrogen (N) – Phosphorus (P) – Potassium (K). (These numbers measure different things in some other countries, so check your country’s system before applying the numbers to your hibiscus care.) When looking for a fertilizer for hibiscus, look for this ratio: Medium – Low – High. If all three numbers are the same, as in most “Superbloom” formulas, there is too much phosphorus and too little potassium for hibiscus. The ratio we have found to be the best is the one we use in our HVH Special Blend Fertilizer: 17-5-24. This is the fertilizer we developed for our own hibiscus, after much trial and error. You don’t need this exact ratio, but you do need this pattern of Medium Nitrogen (N) – Low Phosphorus (P) – High Potassium (K).

How to Read Fertilizer Numbers

If your fertilizer has less-than-optimum levels of potassium in it, you can supplement potassium with our HVH Hibiscus Booster. The booster is intended to supplement your fertilizer with extra potassium and nitrogen, not replace it, since it is not a complete and balanced fertilizer, and has none of the trace minerals that hibiscus need. For example, if you are using the complete HVH Special Blend Fertilizer on a weekly basis, you may want to use the Hibiscus Booster once a month during the flowering season to give extra support to the flowering process. If you use our HVH Timed-Release Fertilizer with lower levels of potassium, you should use the Hibiscus Booster once a week (or higher doses once a month) to provide the higher levels of potassium that hibiscus need.

Check the Minor Elements

When you look for a fertilizer, also look at the “minor elements” in the formula. These are other minerals that hibiscus need in small amounts. Make sure you find a formula that includes at a minimum copper, magnesium, and iron in a soluble or chelated form. Ideally your fertilizer will contain several other trace minerals too. When it comes to fertilizer, you pay for what you get. You can buy cheaper fertilizers, but you will get a cheaper grade of each component of the fertilizer. Cheaper components may not dissolve well in water and may wash away without ever entering your plant. Or they can contain traces of harmful chemicals that can actually damage your plants. For example, some minerals are available in a chloride form for less money, and many less expensive fertilizers use these chloride forms. But repeated dosing with chlorines is very damaging to hibiscus, and the damage increases over time.

Read and Follow the Directions!

A good fertilizer program makes ‘Living Legend’
grow and bloom vigorously year after year.

One more very important part of fertilizing is to very carefully follow the directions that come with any fertilizer. Hibiscus like to be fed small amounts often rather than large amounts occasionally, so the very best way to feed them is to use a half-dose of fertilizer every time you water. If you fertilize once a week, use the regular dose recommended on the fertilizer label. If you fertilize once a month or less, you can use a double-dose, but we don’t recommend this, because hibiscus do best with steady and even water and fertilizer on a daily and weekly basis.

How to Fertilize

For hibiscus planted in the ground, it is easiest to hook up your water hose to a proportioner or fertilizer injector, so you can water and feed at the same time. Or, if you use a drip-type watering system, fertilizer injectors are inexpensive and easy to add to your system. If neither of these methods work for you, just mix your water and water soluble plant food in a container, then water each plant well. For potted hibiscus, be sure to pour enough of the solution into each pot so that some comes out the bottom of the pot.

It’s much better for hibiscus to be fertilized when their soil is a bit moist. If the soil is too dry, the nitrogen in the fertilizer can burn the roots and damage the plants. Hibiscus don’t like to ever dry out completely anyway, so if you have a good watering regime, you shouldn’t ever have to worry about the soil being too dry to fertilize.

During the winter months when your hibiscus are not actively growing and blooming, cut your fertilizer way back. The less active hibiscus are, the less food they need. During the coldest two months of winter, you won’t need to fertilize at all. As the days get longer and warm up towards the end of winter, start fertilizing about once every other week. Then begin your full fertilizing program as soon as the early spring warmth begins, and keep it up all through the fall blooming season, backing off slowly as winter approaches.

I Don’t Have Time to Fertilize all the Time! Help!

If you are a very busy person, you may not be able to fertilize on a regular, frequent basis. For the “fertilizer challenged,” a more permanent fertilizer such as the HVH Timed-Release Fertilizer will work too. These fertilizers are mixed into the soil once every 3-4 months, and release slowly over time. However, even the best of the timed-release fertilizers is too low in potassium for hibiscus. If you use one of these, even our own HVH timed-release formula, you will need to give your hibiscus an extra boost of potassium once or twice a month with a potassium product like our HVH Hibiscus Booster. Our booster is pure potassium nitrate, and you will see the almost instantaneous effects of adding it to your hibiscus – more flowers, brighter colors, and over time, stronger wood and roots.

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Continue Reading Pnmwg Fertilizers

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Growing hibiscus in Florida gardens

Posted: July 09, 2016 SHARE Posted: July 09, 2016 0

For those of you who know me, I suggest you sit down before you read this article because it is not what I have professed in the past. Whether it is the hot summer sun or just possessed by the flower gods — or maybe simply the changing of my meds. I have changed my thinking about these little gems.

I have been “hibis-ca-tized.” With the new hibiscus they are producing, their flowers are bigger and have such brilliant colors they look like they are run by electricity. So many have been hybridized the whole family of hibiscus is changing and remember in Florida nothing lives forever so enjoy it while it’s there.

How many times when we lived up north we traveled to the islands for vacation in the winter and said I would love to grow those tropical plants where we live. Now, we all have moved and live in paradise growing these tropical plants are easier than you think.

Hibiscus is one of the most popular plants for their colors, flowers which can range from a couple of inches, such as the Chinese lantern (Hibiscus schizopetalus), to the largest flower which is Lord Baltimore (Hibicus moscheutos). The flower can reach 10 to 12 inches in size and has a distinct tropical appearance.

I actually have a blue flowered hibiscus called Cajun Blue in a pot in my driveway that’s been blooming since the spring. Hibiscus is not only a staple in the South Florida garden, it also does well in containers, so they can be placed around in the garden, on lanais and courtyards.

Hibiscus in containers requires more water — but avoid over watering. Like any plant, too much water is not healthy; when in doubt don’t water. Hibiscus in containers prefers a tight fit like most flowering plants will bloom more profusely when they are slightly pot bound. When repotting only go one pot size larger to ensure maximum flower development.

Fertilize your hibiscus frequently. Use a balanced water soluble fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 mixed with water the fertilizer when poured on the roots of the plant is taken up systemically. As another option a granular fertilizer works as a three month slow release.

Spraying the foliage with liquid fertilizer also produces great results; it is absorbed through the leaves. This should be done early in the morning to reduce burning the foliage with the hot sun. Be sure not to use fertilizer higher in nitrogen than other nutrients as this will lead to great leaf growth with little flower production.

Also mixing your already mixed miracle grow with a few drops of Super Thrive makes for magical things to happen in the plants.

Pruning your hibiscus will maintain its size and shape. Spring and summer is the best time to hard trim your plants. In the winter only about a third of the plants size should be trimmed at any time because of the chance of cold weather. Serious problems with your plant and possible death could occur if trimmed to severely and then the temperature’s drop.

Also trimming plants to rid it of pests is also recommended over pesticides. Never should you trim your hibiscus with gas-powered hedge trimmers ripping the leaves and cutting all the flower buds off. A more natural look by pruning by hand is always the preferred method. Hibiscus was never made to be in a box shape or round lollipops.

When walking and admiring your garden keep a close lookout for pests on your plants, catching a pest infestation early is easier to control. My thoughts on owning hibiscus is that they have some of the most beautiful flowers I have ever seen particularly since so many hybrids have been introduced. But when purchased you should also purchase Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub systemic insect control because you’re going to need it. Not maybe, but definitely, but don’t let this stop you from planting and enjoying this spectacular tropical shrub. Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub will also help you with many of your garden pests on other plantings.

Like most new plants in my garden, I jump right in and begin planting. At last count I already have at least 13 hibiscuses planted in my garden. I also just want to share how enjoyable writing this article was because the whole time there have been 20 to 30 butterflies keeping me company along with two of my cardinals’ all playing in the tamarind tree outside my window.

Email me with your gardening questions at [email protected] or on our Facebook page, Naples Butterfly.

Don’t forget to plant milkweed to help save the monarch butterfly and keep butterflying.

Beautiful hibiscus flowers the reward for basic care

Hibiscus can be a show-stopper in any garden, with flowers that can be as large as 12 inches in diameter. The mild climate of the Tampa Bay area is ideal for this tropical plant. Here are some tips on growing the colorful blooms in your yard.


Good drainage is important. Make sure hibiscus doesn’t stay wet, but avoid drying it out especially in the hot weather. Add organic matter and mulch to keep the soil moist.


The plant likes lots of light, but too much direct sun when it’s hottest may lead to reduced blooms. Try planting where it get some shade midday for plentiful and larger blooms.


A sandy soil rich in organic matter that will retain water is best. Mulching retains moisture and shields the roots from the hot sun. For potted plants, some growers like to use a commercial soilless mixture and others prefer a mixture that contains sand, pine bark, topsoil and compost. A best soil pH is 6 to 7.


Prune the plants to shape and manage size, invigorate old plants, and get rid of diseased and dead wood. Prune after the freezes are over with so new growth won’t get damaged. Prune a third to a half of the plant. Use sharp shears and prune just above an “eye.”


Hibiscus is a heavy feeder, so fertilize lightly and often. Use fertilizers that include trace elements, like iron, copper and boron. Growers prefer low phosphate dry fertilizer, such as 7-2-7 to produce better quality blooms. Water soluble fertilizers can be used for foliar feeding (spraying on leaves) and for potted plants. A slightly acidic soil (pH of 6 to 7) helps the plants absorb nutrients.


If left on the plant or cut and brought inside (no water necessary), the blooms of most varieties last only a day. There are a few that will still look good after two or three days.


Some of the garden varieties may grow to heights of 10 to 15 feet or more. Most of the hybrids won’t get nearly that large, in fact, some may only grow a few inches a year.


Control aphids, thrips, whiteflies and spider mites. Water the plant thoroughly before using insecticides to lessen the shock. It’s best to apply in the early morning or in the evening when temperatures are below 80 degrees. Apply to both top and underside of the leaves. For most insect problems, use systemic Orthene, or Cygon which is often used against scale and other insects. Whiteflies can be controlled with products containing imidacloprid, as well as with soaps and oil, such as Ultra Fine Oil. Some growers use neem products, WD40 or cooking spray on stems and branches to control scale.


Occasionally, bacterial and viral diseases may threaten a plant. Try to avoid spreading these problems by sterilizing shears and isolating the affected plant if possible. Plants that cannot be revived should be carefully discarded. Try to consult an expert. Many diseases can be cured with the proper treatment. Sometimes something as simple as adding a weak chlorine bleach solution to the soil may kill the pathogen and sometimes a specialized product is necessary. Remember to properly water and fertilize the plant to better resist problems.


Tropical hibiscus can withstand freezing temperatures for a brief time before there’s damage. Cover your outdoor plants when there’s a freeze warning to trap ground heat. For potted plants, bring them inside. Freeze-damaged plants should be cut back to living wood after the danger of freezing has passed or when growth resumes.

Pots or in ground?

Many growers prefer pots because if a plant isn’t thriving in one area it can be moved to a different location where it might do better. Also, applications of nutrients are slower to leave the root area if the plants are in pots. There’s less risk of nematodes, too. But make sure the pots drain well. Plants in the ground benefit from being able to spread their roots farther and will need less frequent watering.

Source: trop-hibiscus.com

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