Weeping flowering peach tree

Weeping Peach ‘Pink Cascade’

Category:

Edible Fruits and Nuts

Trees

Height:

10-12 ft. (3-3.6 m)

12-15 ft. (3.6-4.7 m)

Spacing:

12-15 ft. (3.6-4.7 m)

15-20 ft. (4.7-6 m)

Hardiness:

USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8 °C (-20 °F)

USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1 °C (-15 °F)

USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F)

USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F)

USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F)

USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F)

USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F)

USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F)

USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F)

USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)

Sun Exposure:

Full Sun

Bloom Color:

Pink

Bloom Time:

Mid Spring

Foliage:

Deciduous

Other details:

Unknown – Tell us

Soil pH requirements:

Unknown – Tell us

Patent Information:

Unknown – Tell us

Propagation Methods:

Unknown – Tell us

Seed Collecting:

N/A: plant does not set seed, flowers are sterile, or plants will not come true from seed

Foliage Color:

Unknown – Tell us

Bloom Characteristics:

Unknown – Tell us

Water Requirements:

Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater

Where to Grow:

Unknown – Tell us

Regional

This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:

Prattville, Alabama

Northridge, California

Pinole, California

Elgin, Illinois

Wiscasset, Maine

Springfield, Massachusetts

Brunswick, Missouri

Morganton, North Carolina

Edmond, Oklahoma

Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

Schwenksville, Pennsylvania

Greeneville, Tennessee

show all

Growing A Flowering Peach Tree: Is An Ornamental Peach Edible

The ornamental peach tree is a tree developed specifically for its ornamental attributes, namely its lovely spring blossoms. Since it blooms, the logical conclusion would be that it fruits, right? Do ornamental peach trees bear fruit? If so, is an ornamental peach edible? Keep reading to find answers to these questions and other information growing a flowering peach tree.

Do Ornamental Peach Trees Bear Fruit?

Ornamentals, in general, are included in the landscape for their flowers or colorful foliage. Although their purpose is ornamental, many of these trees will produce fruit. Some fruit from ornamentals is edible and quite tasty; crabapples and purple-leaved plums are such examples.

So, more than likely an ornamental peach tree will bear fruit but is an ornamental peach edible? Because the tree is developed for its ornamental characteristics and not the quality of its fruit, the fruit will likely be edible, in theory, meaning it won’t kill you, but inedible in practice since it probably won’t taste all that great.

Ornamental Peach Tree Care

Ornamental peach trees are sometimes referred to as non-fruiting or flowering fruit trees. The gorgeous blossoms bloom in the spring with clusters of single or double flowering peach petals. Single petal flowering peaches are more likely to bear fruit, but the flavor will not be equal to that of a peach tree grown exclusively for the quality of the fruit.

Ornamental peach trees are often of the dwarf variety and are bred not only for their luscious blooms, but also a more diminutive size. As such, they make lovely container specimens to languish on a deck or patio.

Ornamental peaches need well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0 and full sun. They are susceptible to the same insect marauders and diseases as their peach growing counterparts.

To plant an ornamental peach tree, dig a hole twice the size of the root ball and as deep as the container. Break up any clumpy soil and loosen the soil around the insides of the hole so the roots can take hold easier. Put the tree in the hole and spread the roots out. Back fill the hole with soil and then water the tree well.

Water the new tree twice a week if there is no rain and continue in this vein during the first growing season.

Ornamental peach tree care will also include feeding the tree and pruning it. Fertilize a newly planted tree a month and a half after planting with water soluble 10-10-10 around the drip line of the tree. Thereafter, fertilize the ornamental peach twice a year, the first feeding in the spring once the buds are appearing and again in the fall.

Prune out any dead, broken or diseased branches. If the tree appears to be diseased, be sure to sterilize your pruning shears by dipping them into alcohol or bleach. Prune out any suckers as well. Heavier pruning should only be done when the tree is dormant in the early spring prior to bud break. At this time, prune to remove any low hanging, crowded or crossing branches. Cut overly long branches to control the tree’s height.

During the growing season, use an insecticide/fungicide according to the manufacturer’s instructions to thwart pests and diseases.

The Flowering Peach Trees

The Growing History of UD’s Peach Trees

by Sybil Novinski

The first Art Building was completed in 1960, the first academic building built after the initial six structures erected for the opening of the University in September 1956. A gift of Beatrice Haggerty, it was designed by the famous “father of Southwest architecture” O’Neil Ford.

The design incorporated a professionally planned garden which included three “peppermint trees”, flowering peach trees so-called because of the shades of rose to white blooming on each tree. The trees matured and the chair of the Art Department, Lyle Novinski, noticed there were small saplings springing up in the ground cover around them. He transplanted the saplings to a place in the surrounding forest to grow to an adequate size. When ready, with the help of freshmen Art majors, the saplings were planted along the wall they had built near what is now the east end of the J. M. Haggar University Center.

What began as a onetime rescue of tiny trees began a practice where Professor Novinski would dig up the small sprouts from the previous year’s small peaches. It was a short crucial rescue window because the saplings had to germinate before the first mowing—once mowed off they would be gone. His habit became to take the little sprouts home, often dug out with a cafeteria spoon, place them in single pots in his garden. After a year of growth—to about twenty-four inches high, they would be transferred to large buckets to grow into small trees. Regularly, in the winter, students, organized now through the Student Government Landscape Committee, and Novinski planted them around campus in places with good sun, some protection, and perhaps, some irrigation.

The unpredictable different shades present on one tree remains a mystery. Often questions are asked about grafting. That is not the case; the trees have their own way of determining the shades and amount of mix on a single tree. The Peppermint Peach Trees live about 20 years. The first trees planted are long gone but others have been inserted and enliven the campus each spring. Professor Novinski hopes the replacement process continues—there are, in fact, about 20 mature trees in his garden ready to be planted.

For many years he gave a lecture about the Rome Program to prospective students and their parents. Often such Visit Days happen during the brownest part of the year so he included campus pictures of the flowering peaches. As alumni brought their children to learn about UD he would offer a tree to alumni parents. There are UD Peppermint trees spread about the nation now.

Beatrice Haggerty and Novinski became close friends over the many years of her great patronage. Each spring he carried an armful of blossoms to her home. On her 90th birthday three of the peach trees were planted in her home garden.

Pruning Peach Trees

You should be pruning peach trees early in the spring.

Why prune in early spring?

  • You want to prune the branches before sap starts running in them. The cut areas are less susceptible to bug infestation in the early spring.
  • Without leaves and blossoms, you can see easily see the shape of the peach tree.
  • The direction of the tree needs to be set before starting its growth spurt.
  • Pruning the peach trees in the winter can reduce the trees cold-hardiness.

Why prune peach trees?

  • Pruning a peach tree opens up the tree and allows sunlight to shine on the fruit. This is important for healthy fruit production.
  • If you’re going to spray your trees for diseases or pests, an open tree helps with equal coverage.
  • Peach twigs can be killed in one growing season by too much shading. If there’s too much shade, eventually no fruiting wood will be present in the lower part of the tree.

Tools Needed

Three different tools come in handy when pruning peach trees.

  • A hand or chainsaw is used to cut the big branches that should have been pruned a few years ago.

    Be careful when using a chainsaw that you don’t nick the good branches.

  • A set of large pruning shears is used to cut branches that are bigger than the size of your little finger.
  • A little pair of clippers is used to trim all the small stuff. They are easy to handle and can get into tight areas.

How to Prune Peach Trees:

Imagine what your hand looks like when holding a giant peach. When pruning peach trees, the shape of your hand is very similar to the shape of the pruned peach tree. The center is open with about 5 main branches angling upward at 45 degrees. Of course, unlike your hand, the branches are evenly spaced around the tree.

Each one of these main branches holds another hand. This second hand is what carries and bears fruit.

Follow these guidelines, and use common sense. When pruning peach trees, keep walking around the tree and look at the tree from a different perspective. The tree should look balanced from every angle.

  • The first and easiest step is to prune off all the suckers. These are the little shoots that spring up from the roots of the plant.
  • Now prune off dead, diseased, or unhealthy branches. Also pull off any old dried fruit.

  • You want to keep your tree short. I stand on the ground and crop the branches as high as I can reach with the clippers. Some people prune their peach trees even lower than this.

    The fruit will develop on the new growth. If you have a tall limb where the only new growth is high above your head, cut off the limb.

    By keeping the tree low year after year, you’ll encourage the tree to send out side branches instead of tall branches that reach to the sky. It’s a lot easier to prune, pick, and care for a low growing peach tree than a tall one.

  • This next step is the most important in shaping, training, and pruning peach trees.

    Choose 4-6 branches that come off the trunk. These branches should be angling upward at about 45 degrees. If there are branches growing up the center of the tree, prune these out.

    Looking at an aerial view of the tree, the area where the fruit and leaves grow looks more like a doughnut than a ball.

Now you’re going to trim up the remaining limbs.

  • First prune out any branches that are growing horizontal and downward. They have a tendency to break and crack when the fruit gets heavy.

    Major damage can occur when branches break. The tree will also be more susceptible to disease and insect infestation.
    You can train and encourage a branch to angle upward. In the picture, there are a couple branches that are growing in the wrong direction. There’ s some new growth on one of the branches that’s growing in the right direction. Make a cut right after the new growth, encouraging the branch to grow at a 45-degree angle.

  • Cut off any vertical branches. The ideal angle of a branch is about 45 degrees angling upward.
  • Check the remaining branches to see if there are any branches that are crossing over each other. Pick the ones that support the general shape of the tree and prune out the others.
  • Crop off any branches that are shooting to the sky. Choose a height for your tree, and prune off any branches that go higher than that mark.
  • Run your peach trimmings through a wood chipper. This makes great organic matter for your garden. See Types of Soil.

We’ll talk about thinning peaches, planting peaches trees, and caring for your trees on the growing peach trees page. (link coming)
Return to Growing Fruit from Pruning Peach Trees
Canning Peaches

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