If you remember a vine creeping around your grandmother’s kitchen, chances are it was a Hoya plant. This tropical indoor plant — often called a “Wax plant” due to its thick waxy leaves — is a classic because it lives forever, grows to be enormous, and creates beautiful, porcelain-like fragrant flower clusters (it’s also often called “Porcelain flower”).
Though many swear Hoya plant care is among the easiest of all indoor plants, we’ve cared for many Hoyas in the nursery over the years, and have learned that each has its specific likes and dislikes. Here are 5 of our favorite Hoya cultivars and their care requirements. We’ll move through from most to least common, so you can master the ins and outs of Hoya plant care. Plus, we’ll share a tip to induce blossoming!
Our 5 favorite Hoya cultivars
- Hoya carnosa (top left)
Why it’s special: This is the classic wax plant from your childhood. Dark green, large, almond-shaped leaves grow on long vines, which will eventually put out creamy flower clusters.
What it likes: medium to bright indirect light. Less is more when it comes to watering; we like to wait until the leaves pucker slightly.
What it dislikes: Direct sun, artificial light, dark corners.
- Hoya carnosa variegata ‘Tricolor’ (top middle)
Why it’s special: Everything you love about the classic carnosa, but with leaves lined in white and pink, in addition to the green. Occasionally, this Hoya will have stems of bright pink and will shoot out solid white leaves. A stunner.
What it likes: This is one of the pickier Hoyas. It needs very bright, but indirect light, to thrive. Also enjoys heat and high humidity. Follow watering procedure for normal carnosa, above.
What it dislikes: Low-medium light, cold drafty windows. Particularly sensitive to over-watering. Portlanders, be sure you have a bright enough spot to keep this one happy!
- Hoya carnosa ‘Rubra’ aka ‘Crimson prince’ (bottom right)
Why it’s special: sometimes called Krimson princess or krimson queen, this Hoya carnosa cultivar has variegated foliage that includes cream, yellow, and pink, in addition to bright green.
What it likes: Like its variegated cousin, the tricolor, this Hoya needs a bright spot where it won’t receive direct sun. Water like a carnosa.
What it dislikes: Low-medium light, cold drafty windows. Particularly sensitive to overwatering.
- Hoya obovata (top right)
Why it’s special: this Hoya has incredible dark green, round, lightly speckled leaves. Compared to many Hoyas, this one is relatively fast to grow and sets flower earlier than most.
What it likes: This is one of the hardier Hoyas we’ve encountered. It still wants bright light, but is tolerant of medium light.
What it dislikes: Over-watering; those big leaves hold a lot of water. Wait until it puckers before watering. Also dislikes direct sun, and dark drafty corners.
- Hoya keysii (bottom left)
Why it’s special: Those leaves! Spade-shaped, soft to touch and slightly furry (the technical term is pubescence), this Hoya also shoots out vines that grow in a more upright habit than the carnosas.
What it likes: This one is especially succulent – likes long dry spells, nice bright light and high humidity.
What it dislikes: Dark corners, over watering (this one is particularly sensitive – it will get mushy), direct sun.
General tips for all Hoya Plant Care
- Never cut the long tendrils! Leaves and flower clusters develop from these.
- Propagate Hoya plants from stem cuttings or by air layering.
- Hoyas don’t mind being a bit root bound. Keep in the same pot for years, but remember to fertilize throughout spring and summer.
- All Hoyas need to be potted in planters with drainage. These plants are very sensitive to too much water, so be sure to use a well draining soil with plenty of pumice and/or perlite.
When is it going to flower already?
It’s hard to predict when these plants will flower, as it occurs when the plants reach maturity. When are they mature? Depends on the growing conditions! But rumor has it that keeping your plant tightly root-bound (in a smaller than normal pot) will accelerate blossoming. Don’t down-pot your plant, though (take it from a big pot and place in a smaller pot) as that can shock your Hoya, a no-no in Hoya plant care.
Hoyas feature waxy, porcelain-like flower clusters.
And there you have it. Hoya plant care for our five favorite cultivars. Did you know that Hoyas can be made into bonsai? Check out our vining kokedama string gardens! Any tips of your own to share on Hoya plant care? Join the conversation on facebook!
Think back to when you were a child. Do you recall a waxy vine-like plant that was draped around a room in your grandmother’s house? She probably referred to the plant as a wax plant; I know my grandmother did. This wondrous tropical plant is actually called a Hoya. It has thick waxy leaves and small clusters of star-shaped flowers that are bright in color with a subtle scent that makes the room smell amazing.
The blooms of this plant are perfectly geometrical, which is one of the reasons that the plant looks artificial upon first glance. I never knew much about Hoyas; in fact, I only recently learned their true name. They are breathtaking beauties that are in many homes. They are easy to take care of and they add an exotic touch to any home garden. Here’s some of what I’ve learned about this extraordinary plant.
- How to Plant and Care for Hoya Plants
- Training Hoya Plants
- Common Problems Experienced with Hoya Plants
- Wax Plant Care: Tips On Growing Hoya Vines
- About Hoya Wax Plants
- How to Care for Hoya Wax Plants
- How to Grow Hoyas
- Hoya Propagation Methods – Tips For Propagating Hoyas
- How to Propagate Hoya Plants
- Wax Plant Propagation in Water
- Hoya carnosa Wax Plant, Wax Flower1
- General Information
- Use and Management
- 05 Nov Wax Plant Poetic: Why the Hoya Is One Part Houseplant, One Part Hanging Heirloom
How to Plant and Care for Hoya Plants
There are over 200 species of Hoyas, each of which has unique colors and shapes. This beauty is seen not only in the blooms but in the foliage as well. Hoyas are popular house plants that often bloom in the first year, but if they are indoor plants, there is a possibility that the process could take longer. Let’s explore some of the specific needs of Hoya plants; starting at the roots of the plant and the type of soil that is needed to help them grow.
- Soil Requirements – A Hoya plant needs soil that is rich, aerated, and drains well. Personally, I create an organic soil mix that really helps my Hoyas prosper and grow. It is made from organic potting soil, compost, worm casings, and fine fir bark. If you have your Hoyas planted in a pot, they like being in close quarters, so transplanting the Hoya into a larger planter may do more harm than good.
- Fertilizer – Like most of the plants that we have in our homes, the Hoya likes to be fed with fertilizer. Use liquid fertilizer to feed your Hoyas about once a month during the growing season. Once cold weather comes along, make sure to cut back on the fertilizer. In fact, these plants should not be fed during the winter months because they enter a semi-dormant state.
- Water – During the spring and summer, these plants crave water, and they need quite a bit of it to remain hydrated. Water the plant thoroughly, and as long as the pot that it is planted in is a container that drains well, then you shouldn’t need to water it again for about two weeks. Test the top of the soil, if it is dry, the Hoyas need watered again. It the soil is still moist, then you can wait a bit longer to give the plant more water. During the winter months you can cut back on watering the plant. Since it is in a semi-dormant state, the Hoyas can most likely be watered once a month.
- Light Requirements – Sunlight is important for a Hoya plant, but indirect sunlight is best. Having the plant hanging directly in your window will cause the leaves to burn from the direct heat of the sun. A north-facing window provides the perfect light for a Hoya plant, but if you do not have that lighting option available, fluorescent lighting will do the job as well. They prefer morning sun, but if the light is not sufficient, the plant may not bloom.
- Temperature – These beautiful flowers are tropical plants, so you do not want to keep them in extremely cool temperatures. Try to maintain the room where you have your plants located at a temperature of at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Pruning – These long lush plants do not need to be pruned, unless of course they are becoming unruly. I find that the only pruning that is required on a Hoya plant is cutting off dead growth and controlling the size of the plant. If the plant is becoming too long, cut it back and propagate the cutting to give to a friend.
Training Hoya Plants
Hoyas are vines that can be trained to grow along any path you choose. They can climb trees, hanging planters and the walls of your home. I have seen Hoyas grow to lengths of about 12 feet, but if trained and cared for properly, they can grow longer than 20 feet in length. It is best to train the plant while it is young, but training a mature Hoya is still a possibility, it will just take longer to achieve the desired outcome. Hanging pots are perfect for dangling Hoyas, but if you want the plant to grow upward, place some bamboo in the soil next to it and tie the plant to the bamboo with twine.
The best way to propagate a Hoya plant is to create a cutting that is at least ten centimeters long. The cutting should have two to six leaves, and it should be removed from the matured plant during the early spring of the year. This allows the new plant to take root during the growing season, which will help it survive. You can place the cutting in water and wait for the roots to form or you can transplant it directly into dirt.
Make sure to keep the soil moist until new growth is seen, which means that the cutting has taken root. Transplant the new plant into a small pot; it will be able to live here for two to three years before a transplant is required.
Common Problems Experienced with Hoya Plants
Aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and ants can all be attracted to the Hoya plant because of the sweet smelling nectar. These insects can be sprayed off of the plant with a gentle stream from a hose, or if you prefer, insecticidal soap or spray can take care of them as well.
The worst pest that will bother your Hoya plant is the root-knot nematode. These little pests seek out plants in areas that have warm temperatures year round. Locations where there is no fear of frost occurring suddenly overnight. If your Hoyas are infected, they will begin to decline in health. In many cases, these nematodes can be the death of the plant, but you can save it by taking a cutting from the top of the plant ant attempting to propagate it.
Hoya plants are one of the easiest houseplants to care for. With proper training and care you can have a gorgeous Hoya vine wrapped around your kitchen in no time. They are exotic plants, but with care and knowledge, you can have a tropical plant in your home.
Wax Plant Care: Tips On Growing Hoya Vines
Hoya vines are absolutely stunning indoor plants. These unique plants are native to southern India and named after Thomas Hoym, the Duke of Northumberland’s gardener and the grower that brought attention to the Hoya. The Hoya climbing vine is easy to care for in most home situations provided they get plenty of indirect light and high humidity. These are long lived plants that prefer cramped growing conditions. With a little attention and knowledge on how to care for Hoya, these plants can be passed down from generation to generation.
About Hoya Wax Plants
Among the picturesque names for Hoya are wax plant and porcelain flower. This is a tropical plant, best suited to indoor growing in all but the warmest climates. The flowers may be a rarity in home situations but, if you get lucky, the delicate flowers present a perfect display that almost looks too good to be real. Hoya is a terrific plant for a beginner gardener to learn indoor plant care.
There are over 2,000 plants in the Hoya genus. That said, Hoya carnosa is the most commonly cultivated for home growing. Interestingly, it is in the Milkweed
family, the same family of plants that are the main sustenance for Monarch butterflies.
Hoya plants are easily propagated by cuttings. Cuttings root easily in plain water (use rainwater for best results) or with the cut end inserted into African violet soil mixed by half with perlite. In about two years, the cutting will result in a mature plant capable of blooming. The ease of propagation makes growing Hoya vines to give to family and friends almost effortless and enables you to pass along this amazing plant.
How to Care for Hoya Wax Plants
Hoya plants should be kept out of the high light of the day, as this may burn the leaves. They need bright light but indirect. Water the plant frequently enough in spring and summer that the soil is kept moist. Misting is also a good idea unless the plant is kept in the bathroom where shower steam will keep the air humid.
There is no need to prune a Hoya; in fact, the tendrils at the ends are where new foliage will grow and flowers develop. The optimum temperatures for wax plant care in the growing season are 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.) at night and 80 F. (27 C.) during the day.
Hoya wax plants aren’t actively growing in winter but they do need light and water. Provide the plant with bright indirect light in a cool area of the home free of drafts. Remember, this is a tropical plant and it cannot tolerate cold, but temperatures of 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.) will help force the Hoya into dormancy.
Hoya in winter do not need as much water as in summer. Wait until the top few inches of soil are dry. Mist plants that are near drying furnaces or other heat sources several times a week to increase humidity. Alternatively, Hoya climbing vine can have its container set on a saucer filled with small gravel and water to increase moisture around the plant without getting its roots sodden. Fertilizing is not part of wax plant care in winter.
Mealybugs, aphids and scale are the pests of most note. Combat with horticultural oil.
How to Grow Hoyas
March 12, 2018
Hoyas belong to the Apocynaceae plant family. There are close to 300 species and they often have phenomenally unique foliage and dazzling flowers when in bloom. They are living wonders of nature and have evolved with the remarkable epiphytic ability of being able to capture the majority of their water and nutrition from air, rain and surrounding leaf debris. Although they produce roots, these are primarily used to secure themselves and they can often be seen clinging to tree branches and rocky cliff faces.
Hoyas are highly adaptable and can be grown well throughout Australia. They should receive bright, indirect sunlight. Outdoors under partially shaded conditions works well but in the colder states protection from winter rains and frost is required so a sheltered undercover or indoors area would be more appropriate. Indoors, an east or west-facing window area is ideal but avoid very hot positions.
As a general rule, a plant in a well-lit, hot position will require watering every few days. In a darker, humid environment watering every few weeks can often be adequate. It is vital that the hoya is planted in a loose, free-draining potting mix and that the pot has an abundance of drainage holes to allow fast escape of water.
Hoyas generally prefer to dry out completely between each watering and must never have water sitting at their base as this will cause the plant to rot.
Every hoya gardener will have their own custom medium recipe! We love Perlite! A 100% natural product, perlite works behind the scenes to prevent soil mix from becoming compacted. As an aid to maintain adequate air or oxygen in the soil, perlite improves drainage and root respiration; two factors vital for hoya health.
Hoyas are highly adaptable and will thrive provided the mix is porous but still able to retain moisture. A basic recipe would be: 50% peat, 20% potting mix and 30% perlite. Alternatively, many hoya collectors happily use Scotts Osmocote Orchid Mix.
Control release fertiliser granules provide all the essential nutrition necessary to promote beautiful blooms, lush foliage and strong root growth. In addition, the regular application of soluble fertiliser will help speed up leaf growth, flowering and keep your plants looking healthy. We have fertiliser options specifically for hoyas and these can be found under Accessories.
It is important to begin training your hoya early and for this we use training clips. Some hoya grow very vigorously and it is wise to contain them on grow ladders or trellises to ensure they do not creep and climb out of control! Others have stems that quickly become woody and hard so it is best to train and hold them in the desired position from early days as later on the stem will snap when you begin to restrain it. Grow ladders and training clips can be found under Accessories.
Generally speaking, hoyas prefer to live in a snug pot, however, in time they will need to up-size. If you notice the plant is becoming dry more quickly between waterings, roots are visible through the pot’s drainage holes or the pot has no ‘give’ when you press in its sides, it is time to give your hoya a new home. The optimal time of year for reporting is early spring to mid-summer. Select a pot that is no greater than 3-5cm larger in both diameter and depth than your hoya’s current home. Pots made of plastic or glazed terracotta are a good choice as they do not dry out too quickly.
Pests and Diseases
Generally speaking, hoyas are subject to few pests and diseases.
The most common pest is aphids which enjoy the sweet juices of the hoya. The root cause of aphids is ants, however, as they farm the aphids. Getting rid of ants is very important for keeping aphids away. Applications of neem oil or an insecticidal soap will easily control aphids.
Mealybugs sometimes attack but they can be easily destroyed with a dab or spray of straight methylated spirits or isopropyl alcohol (70-99%), and by their natural predators – lacewing and ladybug.
Scale insects can also be a problem. They look like tiny blister-shaped domes that generally feed on the underside of new growth. Do not assume that a dry crusty scale is dead – it is full of eggs for the next generation! Remove, crush or spray with an insecticide.
Under extended periods of high humidity, hoyas can fall victim to fungus diseases. This can be prevented / controlled through the promotion of good airflow around the plant and, when necessary, the application of a systemic fungicide.
If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us: [email protected]
Hoya Propagation Methods – Tips For Propagating Hoyas
Also known as wax plant, hoya is a semi-woody vine with large, waxy, egg-shaped leaves along the stem. Hoya is a striking, long-lived plant that may even surprise you with sweet-smelling, star-shaped blooms. If you’re interested in wax plant propagation, the most dependable technique is propagation via stem cuttings. Hoya propagation through seed is chancy and the resulting plant likely won’t be true to the parent plant – if the seed germinates at all. Read on for helpful tips on propagating hoyas.
How to Propagate Hoya Plants
Propagating hoyas with stem cuttings is easy. Hoya propagation is best is spring or summer when the plant is actively growing.
Fill a pot with a well-drained potting mix, such as one containing perlite, vermiculite or clean sand to improve drainage. Water well, then set the pot aside to drain until the potting mix is evenly moist but not saturated.
Cut a healthy stem with a least two or three leaves. The stem should be around 4 to 5 inches long (10-15 cm.). Remove leaves from the lower stem. Once the cutting is planted, the leaves shouldn’t touch the soil.
Dip the bottom of the stem in liquid or powdered rooting hormone. (Rooting hormone isn’t an absolute requirement, but it may increase the chance of successful rooting.) Water regular to keep the soil evenly moist. Be careful not to overwater because soggy soil may rot the stem.
Place the pot in indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which may bake the young plant. Morning sunlight works well.
Wax Plant Propagation in Water
You can also start a hoya plant in a glass of water. Simply take the cutting as directed above and place it in a jar of water, with the leaves above the surface of the water. Replace the water with fresh water whenever it becomes murky.
Once the cutting roots, plant it in a pot filled with well-drained potting mix or orchid mix.
Hoya carnosa Wax Plant, Wax Flower1
Edward F. Gilman2
This slow-growing, woody, evergreen vine has thick, fleshy, two to four-inch-long, green or variegated leaves, and produces in spring and summer large, round, hanging clusters of creamy white to light pink, 0.5-inch, fragrant flowers, each with a perfect five-pointed pink star in the center (Fig. 1). Bloom fragrance is subtle and you must come close to the plant to enjoy it but it is well worth the effort. These long-lasting, showy blooms emerge on old flower spurs, which should never be pruned off. Because wax plant is especially sensitive to nematodes, plants are often grown in containers where the soil can be carefully controlled. Wax plant is very susceptible to temperatures below 40°F and should be used in sheltered locations.
Scientific name: Hoya carnosa Pronunciation: HOY-yuh kar-NOE-suh Common name(s): wax plant, wax flower Family: Asclepiadaceae Plant type: vine USDA hardiness zones: 10B through 11 (Fig. 2) Planting month for zone 10 and 11: year round Origin: not native to North America Uses: hanging basket; suitable for growing indoors; cascading down a wall Availablity: grown in small quantities by a small number of nurseries Figure 2.
Shaded area represents potential planting range.
Height: depends upon supporting structure Spread: depends upon supporting structure Plant habit: spreading Plant density: open Growth rate: slow Texture: medium
Leaf arrangement: opposite/subopposite Leaf type: simple Leaf margin: entire Leaf shape: ovate Leaf venation: pinnate; none, or difficult to see Leaf type and persistence: evergreen Leaf blade length: 2 to 4 inches Leaf color: variegated Fall color: no fall color change Fall characteristic: not showy
Flower color: pink Flower characteristic: pleasant fragrance; spring flowering; summer flowering
Fruit shape: pod or pod-like Fruit length: less than .5 inch Fruit cover: dry or hard Fruit color: unknown Fruit characteristic: inconspicuous and not showy
Trunk and Branches
Trunk/bark/branches: not applicable Current year stem/twig color: green Current year stem/twig thickness: thick
Light requirement: plant grows in part shade/part sun Soil tolerances: slightly alkaline; clay; sand; acidic; loam Drought tolerance: high Soil salt tolerances: poor Plant spacing: 18 to 24 inches
Roots: not applicable Winter interest: no special winter interest Outstanding plant: plant has outstanding ornamental features and could be planted more Invasive potential: not known to be invasive Pest resistance: long-term health usually not affected by pests
Use and Management
Wax plant should be grown in partial shade in a fibrous, well-drained, acid potting medium, such as compost, peat, or sphagnum moss. Plants should be allowed to dry between deep waterings in the summer months then, after flowering, plants should be allowed to become dormant by very infrequent waterings during the cool months. This plant is well-suited for growing in a container with an extremely well-drained media where stems can cascade over the side and show off the waxy foliage and unusual bloom.
Available cultivars include: ‘Variegata’—white-margined leaves; ‘Exotica’—leaves variegated with yellow and pink, margined with green; and ‘Krinkle Kurl’ or Hindu-Rope Plant—leaves crowded, curled, and contorted.
Propagation is by cuttings or layering.
Pests and Diseases
Nematodes and mealy-bugs.
Root-rots if kept too wet.
This document is FPS-257, one of a series of the Environmental Horticulture Department, UF/IFAS Extension. Original publication date October 1999. Reviewed February 2014. Visit the EDIS website at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
Edward F. Gilman, professor, Environmental Horticulture Department, UF/IFAS Extension, Gainesville, FL 32611.
The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations. For more information on obtaining other UF/IFAS Extension publications, contact your county’s UF/IFAS Extension office.
U.S. Department of Agriculture, UF/IFAS Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A & M University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Nick T. Place, dean for UF/IFAS Extension.
05 Nov Wax Plant Poetic: Why the Hoya Is One Part Houseplant, One Part Hanging Heirloom
Posted at 03:00h in Design, Garden & Farm, Our Garden, Plant Appeal by Chantal Aida Gordon
Here’s the thing about our houseplants: We mostly keep them outside. We don’t have a lot of room indoors, so we’ll hang certain flora — ones you might associate with offices and brightly lit bathrooms — from the north-facing eave outside our one-story home. It also helps that temperatures here don’t get that far below 50 in the winter.
One of these plants is our Hoya carnosa, commonly known as hoya, porcelain flower or wax plant. Known for its curving vines stacked with waxy leaves (hence the name), this species of hoya is native to Southeast Asia and Australia. When it flowers it sends out star-shaped blooms in startling spherical and hemispherical clusters, flowers that look and feel like they’ve been sculpted from marzipan.
Wax plants make great houseplants. Make sure to find a location with bright indirect light. Above, Ryan’s mother Denise shows off her Hoya carnosa’s latest blooms.
Check out these buds. Flowers will flare from the same spurs over and over again, so it’s important not to cut the spurs after the blooms fade.
We witnessed all the flowers on this “flare” fully open in the course of a day.
On closer examination, the flowers are quite textured and multi-layered. Above the fuzzy star-shaped petals are slick, star-shaped coronas.
Despite their fleshy look, the flowers are actually covered in tiny hairs. (Just like…humans?) Across the Hoya genus, each umbellate flower cluster emerges from a single spur — that is, a peduncle that grows from the axil of the leaves and stem. The spurs bear repeat blooms, and should not be removed. The buds are oddly flat-topped, like textured candies, and each flower typically includes not just one star figure but two: the petals and the corona, which together give these miniature blossoms an intense depth and dimensionality. Many hoya blossoms are outrageously fragrant; ours only smelled mildly of chocolate.
We have the ‘Krinkle 8’ cultivar, so named for its dimpled foliage. We picked it up about a month ago, when it was still in bloom, but Ryan has known about the magic of the hoya for a while; his parents have been growing them for decades, including a variegated one that was acquired at a “plant party” in the 1973. (“A van would pull up and bring in dozens of plants for a group of friends at the house, sort of like a Tupperware or Avon party,” said Ryan’s mom Denise.) The longevity theme reemerged when we posted a shot to Instagram. “My grandmother had the same plant her whole life,” one commenter, NYCBone, said.
We brought home a Hoya carnosa ‘Krinkle 8.’
‘Krinkle 8’ refers to the eight dimples on each leaf.
The leaf and stem structure of this cultivar make for a beautiful hanging plant.
The plants of Hoya genus (named after English botanist Thomas Hoy) are evergreen perennials, and often grow as epiphytes, like tillandsias and epiphyllums, meaning they rely on trees and moss poles and terrestrial features like rocks for structural support. Because they’ve evolved to thrive in these tight spots, these plants actually prefer to be root-bound. Another thing in common with cactus orchids!
Care tips for your hoya:
– Hardiness varies by species. If growing outdoors, some varieties of hoya are hardy in USDA Zones 8 through 11; others (like our H. carnosa) will only abide zones 10 through 11.
– Many people grow hoyas as houseplants. If indoors, cooler temps are A-OK during the winter but make sure they don’t drop below 50. The plants enjoy the warm temperatures of the spring and summer growing season.
– Humidity in your hoya habitat should be at least 40 percent. This can be achieved through regular misting with a spray bottle.
– Put it in a spot with bright indirect light, like a north-facing window.
– Evenly moist, well-drained soil is preferred. Plant Care Today specifically recommends “African violet soil with some added perlite.”
– Again, do not remove spurs after the blooms have faded. That’s where the next round of flowers will blossom. Allow faded flowers to fall off naturally.
– Apply a balanced fertilizer only during active growing season, i.e. spring and summer.
– Pot-bound plants will flower more vigorously.
– Keep soil moist in spring and summer, but allow it to dry in the winter — water just enough so the leaves won’t shrivel.
– Hoyas are most commonly propagated by cuttings. Vermont Hoyas shares its technique here.
– In general, don’t helicopter-garden this baby. It favors a bit of benign neglect. And definitely don’t move the plant while it’s blooming.
Keep the plant root-bound for years, eventually stepping up pot size by 1 to 2 inches. Make sure to always plant in lose and well-draining soil.
A spent spur. A flower will grow again out of this same spur next season. Do not cut away these old dormant spurs.
We placed our hoya outside beneath an eave, our Zone 10B outdoor home for a houseplant. If growing indoors, hanging next to a north-facing window should ensure adequate light.
Hoyas are epiphytic vines native to Southeast Asia and Australia.
We almost forgot to mention that we have a second Hoya carnosa! It’s rooted in a pot at the base of our guava tree and vertical shade garden.
Unlike the ‘Krinkle 8,’ its leaves are flat and splotchy.
Hoyas are climbers. This one is working its way up the guava tree.
We’ve yet to see a flower over the past year since we’ve had it. This might be due to our transplanting it into a pot that’s too big.
If you’re ISO a hoya to call your own, they aren’t terribly hard to find. The Plant Attraction and EBay are two online sources. Another thing we do when we’re looking for a local supplier is to search for the name of the desired plant on Yelp — an approach that has yielded all sorts of discoveries.