Nutsedge looks similar to turf grass.
- Is Nutgrass/Nutsedge Driving YOU Nuts?
- Sedge Lawn Weeds: How To Control Sedge Plants In The Landscape
- Sedge Lawn Weeds
- How to Control Sedge
- Sedge Weed Control ID
- More Information About Carex
- All About Sedge
- Propagation and Maintenance
- Top Types of Sedge
- Sedges for Sunny Spots
- Sedges for Shady Spots
- Sedges for Dry Spots
- Sedges for Wet Spots
- Choose Sedges with Carex Comparison
What is Nutsedge?
Nutsedge or nutgrass is technically not a grass, but it looks like one, only it grows faster than regular turf grass and sticks up like a bladed yellow weed. It can pop up both in garden beds and in the lawn. Nutsedge has a triangular stem and roots contain small bulbs or tubers that make fighting nutsedge very difficult.
How Nutsedge Spreads
Under optimum conditions, a network of nutsedge plants arising from one tuber can produce 100 or more tubers in about 100 days. About 80–95 percent of the tubers are located within the top 6 inches of soil. However, tubers have been reported to be present as deep as 18 inches. Once tubers form, they can remain viable in soils for at least two years if they retain moisture. They can survive even when soils are very dry for short periods. However, if tubers are brought to the soil surface for about one week under sunny conditions, they dry out and die.
Damage to Lawns
Nutsedges are a problem in lawns because they grow faster, have a more upright growth habit, and are a lighter green color than most grass species, resulting in a nonuniform turf. In gardens and landscapes, nutsedge will emerge through bark or rock mulches in shrub plantings and vegetable and flower beds throughout the growing season.
The best approach for avoiding nutsedge problems is to prevent establishment of the weed in the first place. Once established, nutsedge plants are difficult to control. New infestations of nutsedge occur when tubers are moved from one area to another on equipment or in soil, plant containers, or among roots of transplants so check containers and equipment.
Nutsedge thrives in wet soil and lots of sunlight. Having proper irrigation is the first step preventing nutsedge from growing. No over watering.
- Nutsedge thrives in water logged soil. An easy fix is to correct your irrigation and soil drainage problems.
- Prevent further tuber growth by removing the young nutsedge plants. Pulling the weeds will work fine, but it is most effective to hoe by hand.
- If tubers are present, repeated removal of top growth will help to keep them under control as it is essentially starving the plant. Note that mature tubers (nutgrass with more than six leaves) can sprout as many as 10-12 times! New sprouts will be weaker than the previous ones but they will gradually work together to resupply themselves unless removed.
- One of the best ways to avoid nutsedge in lawns in the first place is to cut high (good anyway for a lot of reasons). Cutting lower than 3 inches stimulates nutsedge growth.
What Does Not Work
- Using a tiller to destroy mature nutsedge. This technique will only cause the infestation to spread because it moves the tubers around in the soil, allowing them to resprout if they are strong enough. However, repeated tilling in small areas before the nutsedge matures will reduce populations
- Systemic herbicides, like glyphosate, are a common misplaced effort of destroying the plant but because the herbicides really only touch the leaves, the tuber remain unaffected. Glyphosate might work on the younger plant in which the tubers have not formed. Turf grass will absorb the glyphosate from reaching mature nutsedge, and possible damaging your turf grass.
- Black plastic mulching won’t do the trick as the sharp, pointy leaves will go right through.
For Garden Beds
For nutsedge in garden beds, try digging or pulling. Keep at it. Or spray or brush shoots with a kill-everything herbicide such as glyphosate (i.e. Round-Up). The glyphosate is okay in gardens because the nutsedge is easier to get to and more isolated. Exposure to garden plants, compared to turf grass is less likely to damage garden plants.
Then mulch or plant desired plants to keep nutsedge and other weeds from elbowing their way back into the bed.
Ryno Lawn Care is here to help manage your lawn and landscape. Call now for your free consultation. Nutsedge can be a battle of attrition. For a really bad nutsedge invasion in a lawn, it may be easier to kill off everything with glyphosate and reseed or re-sod from scratch.
Is Nutgrass/Nutsedge Driving YOU Nuts?
Q. Mike: I’ve been battling nutsedge in my lawn for 5 years. This stuff is tough. I am thinking about getting a flame weeder and burning it out. Any better ideas?
- —Ben in Center Valley, PA
We recently moved from Philadelphia and now face a new weed: Nut Sedge. It grows taller than the grass, so it’s very obvious. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks.
- —Leslie and Gary in suburbs of St. Louis
Mike: I have nutgrass and have tried several Ortho and Monsanto herbicides, but it keeps coming back. What do you recommend?
- —Tim in Pennington, NJ (near Princeton)
Mike: I listen to your show on Red River Public Radio. Nutsedge has taken over the lawn in front of my law office. I have tried Monsanto’s chemical poisons and am not making any headway (plus I fear killing the four Yaupon hollies out there). My Master Gardner friends tell me to “shut up and Mow It!” Any better ideas?
- —Worth in El Dorado (way down in South AK, 15 miles from Louisiana)
A. My good buddy Howard Garrett, a long-time organic advocate in Texas, had a great bit about this weed on his “Dirt Doctor” website recently. “There is only one guaranteed, foolproof method to completely kill nutgrass,” he recounts: “First, dig out every tiny piece of the plant including the seeds and nutlets. Make sure you sift the soil through a mesh screen. Dump the collected material on the driveway and burn it. Sweep up all the ashes and seal in a concrete box. Drive to the coast and dump the sealed box 20 miles off shore.”
Unfortunately, this appears to be more truth than hyperbole. A true sedge and not a grass, it reproduces by rhizomes, seed, and the underground tubers from which it gets its ‘nutty’ name. There are over 600 species in its genus (“Cyperus”); the big weedy ones are yellow and purple nutsedge. Yellow has lighter colored leaves and one tuber per rhizome. Purple has darker leaves, a ‘chain’ of tubers on each rhizome and is considered a much worse weed. (The colors in the names refer to the ‘spikelets’; what passes for flowers on these kinds of plants.)
The most famous Cyperus family member is papyrus. And this aquatic plant from which paper was first made reveals the biggest problem that makes this weed welcome: Excessive soil wetness. As with all lawn weeds, the problem is generally with the lawn more than the weed, and this is no exception. These plants LOVE constantly wet feet and are often found in over watered lawns with poor drainage.
If your lawn, like so many, was sown on unamended crappy soil, aerate the turf to get some drainage going—the real way, with a machine called a core aerator pulling out plugs. Then apply corn gluten meal as a natural ‘weed and feed’ in the Spring to give your grass a good feeding and prevent the seeds from germinating. (Make sure the CGM is labeled as a pre-emergent herbicide; the ‘animal feed’ kind probably won’t be high enough in protein to work on those seeds.)
Other feedings of the turf should be with compost, to help improve soil structure. (Read a few of our previous questions of the week on lawn care and bulk compost for more info on this important subject.)
In his recent book “The Organic Lawn Care Manual”, Paul Tukey notes that nutsedge is a sign of low calcium levels; so have your soil tested and add lime or wood ash as recommended. And everyone agrees that this weed thrives in anaerobic (low oxygen) soils. Paul recommends using compost tea to introduce more life to the soil; Howard Garrett prefers molasses. I say feeding with bulk compost should do it.
And if you’re watering your lawn frequently, cut back! Oy! Read our Previous Question of the Week on wise watering and don’t be afraid to let your turf go dry at times.
Now, because it does grow so much faster than grass, this nutty weed gives its location away easily. So yes, burning the top growth repeatedly with a flame weeder (or smothering it with an herbicidal soap spray or attacking it with a vinegar based herbicide) will force the underground tubers to resprout and use up a great deal of their energy; one soil scientist says up to 60%. Thus, repeated attacks on the top will eventually starve the underground tubers. But while some sources say that four attacks on the above ground growth (wait until at least six new leaves are showing) will do it, others say it takes a dozen. (Read through some of our Previous Question of the Week on weed control for lots more info on the controls we just mentioned.)
Removing those underground ‘nuts’ is the best answer, but they are recalcitrant, and no one gives hand-pulling any hope of success. Luckily, ducks, geese and guinea hens will unearth and eat the tubers for you! Otherwise, use a poaching spade to exhume the nuts. Or experiment with a mechanical weed-puller designed to remove dandelions, like the Weed Hound; you’ll see right away if it pulls out those little tubers. Either way, you’ll be getting some aeration in the deal. Fill the holes with compost.
If the whole lawn is a weedy mess, use this as a reason to start over; early fall for cool season lawns in the North; Spring for warm season grasses down South. Plan ahead so you can till it all up and then let it sit until the nuts dry out. (Or run some fowl in there—they’ll make short work of exposed tubers!) Then screen out what nuts you can and replant over top of a good two to four inches of high quality compost. That’ll insure good drainage, lots of soil life and maybe smother some of the bits left behind.
Or eat the nuts! The tubers of yellow nutsedge are so edible the plant is known as the “Earth Almond” and its grown professionally. One source says they taste like almonds; the USDA says “between fresh coconut and raisins”. (The purple variety is bitter and used in Oriental Medicine). So harvest your nuts—and tell your neighbors: “That’s not a weed, it’s a cash crop!”
Sedge Lawn Weeds: How To Control Sedge Plants In The Landscape
Much like the witches in the Wizard of Oz, there are good sedges and bad sedges. Sedge lawn weeds are invasive in other types of turf grass. Most problem sedge plants are found in warmer climates of the southern United States, but a couple are also common in northern climes. Controlling sedge weeds can be a challenge to many gardeners.
The first step is identification, as many types of sedge weed control are specific and there are more than 12 varieties of problem sedge. These are some of the more common found in lawns:
- Yellow Nut Sedge (Cyperus esculentus)
- Purple Nut Sedge (Cyperus rotundus)
- Annual Sedge, Watergrass (Cyperus compressus)
- Cylindric Sedge (Cyperus retrorsus)
- Globe Sedge (Cyperus croceus syn. Cyperus globulosus)
Read your herbicide labels carefully for instructions on how to control sedge.
Sedge Lawn Weeds
Sedge plants appear similar to grasses but are actually in a classification unto themselves. If you are a pro, you can identify the plants by the absence of ligules and aruricles. For most of us, these characteristics mean little and all we know is a different type of plant is crowding out our spectacular turf grass in irregular patches with rough, stiff blades and prolific seed heads.
Sedge lawn weeds favor moist areas and are often naturally established in marshy areas or run-off zones. Controlling sedge weeds begins with an examination of your irrigation system and fixing low areas where moisture pools.
How to Control Sedge
As mentioned, you need to fix any area of your irrigation system that releases too much water. You also can raise the soil level in spots with dips that collect moisture. Ensure that the soil has adequate percolation or drainage. Often this means removing entire areas of sod and mixing in compost, sand or other amendments that increase the porosity of the soil so excess water can drain down into the ground.
There are no broad-spectrum herbicides recommended for controlling sedge weeds. Yellow and purple sedge control is available in herbicides recommended for crops. The majority of other sedge plants need to be identified and the specific management program applied for the variety of sedge species.
Sedge Weed Control ID
The best way to identify sedge is from its seed head.
- Yellow nutsedge has a yellow seed head, is common in northern zones and has excellent cold tolerance.
- Purple sedge has purple seed heads and dark green foliage.
These are the most common sedge plants; but for identification of others, you may have to take a specimen to your county extension or master gardener’s clinic.
Most sedges are well controlled by frequent mowing to remove the seed heads and prevent spreading. In the event that you have a widespread problem, you will have to resort to herbicide sedge weed control.
Pre-emergence herbicides have little effect for controlling sedge weeds. Spot application of the appropriate herbicide can be effective or broad range spraying for extreme sedge lawn weeds. As with any herbicide application, read the directions and follow the safety precautions recommended by the manufacturer.
More Information About Carex
Carex (sedge) is the Rodney Dangerfield of the shade ornamental grasses for sale…”it don’t get no respect”. From a garden design standpoint, sedge is usually lumped together with other ornamental grasses, but Carex is actually not a grass, but a grass-like plant called a sedge in the family Cyperaceae. We like sedges for their fine textured leaves, for their leaf color / variegation, and for how Carex improves the health of the local environment by providing food and shelter for insects and birds.
Sedge is a mostly evergreen, “ornamental grass” that adds dramatic form and specimens have either narrow or wide leaves that blend well texturally into the garden. Many sedges are US native plants and are easy-to-grow shade perennials for the woodland garden. There are over 2000 species of sedge…thus there is sure to be one for most garden situations, particularly shade/moist (many), shade/dry (some) and sun/moist (a few). Here at Plant Delights, we strive to carry a wide variety of Carex products for sale including the popular Carex brands in the Evercolor series, ‘Everillo’, ‘Everlime’, ‘Eversheen’, and ‘Everest’.
Sedge grass is well-suited to line pathways or fill open spaces in a woodland garden. In form, carex is a perfect substitute for liriope and ophiopogon in shadier spots…but it needs a bit more consistent water than they do. Some sedges are clumpers and others spread by rhizomes. Carex foliage color varies from green, to blue, to gold/orange or variegated. Carex plants generally form arching mounds from 10 inches to more than 3 feet tall. Sedges perform great as container plants too but are less tolerant of moisture swings than other grasses…being too wet or too dry adversely affects Carex health. A few species of sedge (i.e., C. texensis, C. pennsylvanica and others) also make a decent lawn substitute.
Great companion plants to hosta, most carex perform best when grown in a moist location, although a few are drought-tolerant. Sedges are somewhat tolerant of neglect and are resistant to deer … plus they attract butterflies. Carex improves the health of the ecosystem by producing pollen and tiny seeds that are food sources for birds and insects. And the tufted leaves are used as shelter by wildlife too.
Carex health is easy to maintain with just a few growing tips. Keep them consistently moist but in the summer when their growth slows, be sure not to over water. Water logged soils are bad for Carex health and can cause root rot. Soils that are too dry for too long cause Carex health to decline and the plants start too look ratty. If that happens, cut the sedge plant back, resume watering and the health and appearance will improve.
If you want to buy ornamental grass for a shady site then you should buy sedge instead.
Check out our short article entitled : Carex – Fine Textural Sedges for the Perennial Shade Garden.
All About Sedge
More than 2,000 Carex species grow wild in numerous habitats across the world, particularly in New Zealand, Japan, and the United States. This low-maintenance, deer-resistant group is well-suited for a wide range of garden sites including rock gardens and containers, perennial beds, borders, and native-plant gardens. They can also thrive in environments as different as dry shade and boggy areas alongside streams and ponds.
Foliage usually grows in tussocks or tufts of fine-textured or coarse blades, often upright and arching at the tips; some appear to have been tousled by a whirlwind. Leaf color varies from light to medium green, blue-grayishgreen, bronze, and caramel; many selections are rimmed or edged with contrasting white, silver, or yellow. Because the foliage is more or less evergreen, especially in mild climates, sedges provide much-needed winter interest where not covered by snow.
Greenish sedge flowers are seldom large or striking individually, but several of them cluster in showy spikes or dense heads to put on quite a display, such as black sedge. Others are inconspicuous, such as weeping brown sedge and blue sedge. Plants either carry male flowers on a part of the plant separate from the females, or females may be separated on the same spike. Fruits that follow are called nutlets.
The explosion in popularity of Carex species is due to their great variability and adaptability to so many site conditions. Gardeners have finally realized how useful sedges can be. Planting time varies by species. Generally, cool-weather sedges are best planted in fall. Warm-weather species including New Zealand hair sedge, Morrow’s sedge, brown sedge, and plantain-leaved sedge tolerate either fall or spring planting with success. Leatherleaf sedge prefers spring planting.
With more than 2,000 separate species and multiple selections and cultivars, sedges range in height from creeping or prostrate to 4 feet tall or more. Whether in sun or shade, wet or dry, or rocky or fertile soils, sedges adapt to most conditions. Most thrive in soil that remains moist and does not desiccate in the heat of summer. Average garden soil is usually fine, although incorporation of moistureretaining organic matter at planting time is beneficial, as is summer mulch.
Learn more about growing and caring for sedge in our Plant Encyclopedia.
Propagation and Maintenance
Increase sedges by dividing the plants in early spring. Usually small plants or plugs are available in local nurseries and garden centers for residential plants. Seed germination may be spotty and generally is only used on a large scale. Maintenance is confined to late spring, after frost is likely. Rake out the old dead leaves from the previous year or cut the tufts back to about four inches. Be aware that leatherleaf sedge does not like a haircut and is best just tidied up a bit to expose the new growth.
Top Types of Sedge
Sedges are suitable for almost any place you need to furnish. Some species make excellent groundcover plants. Adaptable, easy-care sedges have earned their place in residential gardens. No longer considered substitutes for ubiquitous ornamental grasses, they are appreciated now for understated interest and contrast to showier companions.
Sedges for Sunny Spots
New Zealand hair sedge (Carex comans): Fine-textured bronze foliage; also tolerates part shade. 12–24 inches tall. ‘Bronze’ has more pronounced foliage color. ‘Frosted Curls’ has curly silver-green leaves. Zones 7–9.
Oak sedge (C. albicans): This native tolerates dry, full-sun conditions well. Dense upright tufts of bright green, quarter-inch arching leaves; showy flowers. 15–20 inches tall. Zones 4–8.
Sedges for Shady Spots
Black sedge (C. nigra): Prefers wet feet; excellent as groundcover in rain gardens or swales. Clumps of grayish-green leaves. Foliage of ‘Variegata’ is edged with yellow. 6–9 inches. Zones 4–8.
Sedges for Dry Spots
Glaucous sedge (C. flacca): Tousled tussocks of fine, bluegreen leaves. Keep dry to control height. 6–24 inches. ‘Burton’s Blue’ has slightly wider, very blue leaves. ‘Blue Zinger’ has blue-green leaves; tolerates drought and damp soils. Zones 4–9.
Blue wood sage (C. flaccosperma): Has dramatic 1– to 2-inch-wide blue-gray leaves. Native. 12–18 inches. Zones 5–9.
Sedges for Wet Spots
Tussock sedge (C. stricta): Native in sunny to partly shaded Northeastern wetlands. Dense tussocks of slender, glaucous leaves. Mass or use as groundcover. 3 feet tall. Zones 3–8.
Broadwing sedge (C. alata): This Eastern U.S. native is fine in part shade or full sun if water is sufficient. Tufts of slender, grassy leaves to 30 inches tall. Zones 4–8.
Choose Sedges with Carex Comparison
Our Sedges Make Sense series continues with a tool for making smart sedge choices. In this series, you’ve learned about sedges for lawn alternatives, containers, meadow and prairie plantings, and rain gardens. Now we open up the series to all the sedges we grow. Stick with us to learn how sedges are growing in popularity and why they make sense for your growing program, green infrastructure projects, and for the ecological landscape market.
Our new catalog arrives soon, and it’s exploding with sedges. Customers have told us they’d like to learn more about Carex, and we’ve responded. To share our knowledge and enthusiasm, we have dedicated our 2017-2018 catalog to sedges.
In the new catalog, we’re offering thirty-five different Carex. You’ll find updated plant descriptions and more photos, but the best part is a new comparison chart. It outlines habit, spreading tendency, foliage texture, and other key characteristics like height and hardiness zone. This side-by-side comparison will help you choose the sedges that best fit your project or growing program.
Need a native sedge that thrives in wet areas and will spread to help keep out weeds? Carex crinita will do the trick, spreading via seed to form colonies. C. cherokeensis fits as well, forming a colony via short rhizomes and reseeding. Or try C. muskingumensis, which also spreads, but has palm-like foliage for a different look. Want a bright pop of color in a shade garden? One of the C. oshimensis EverColor® series will add the right spark.
Find the Carex chart in our upcoming print catalog or download it directly from our website. Either way, you’ll want to have it handy when choosing plants.
Click graphic to download the Carex Comparison Chart
The market for sedges is growing, and sedges make sense if you’re looking to grow, too.
- IPA(key): /sɛd͡ʒ/
- Rhymes: -ɛdʒ
Audio (UK) (file)
From Middle English segge, from Old English seċġ, from Proto-Germanic *sagjaz, from Proto-Indo-European *sak- (“marsh plant”). Cognate with Dutch zegge and German Segge, dialectal German Saher ‘reeds’.
sedge (plural sedges)
English Wikipedia has an article on: Wikipedia
- Any plant of the genus Carex, the true sedges, perennial, endogenous herbs, often growing in dense tufts in marshy places. They have triangular jointless stems, a spiked inflorescence, and long grasslike leaves which are usually rough on the margins and midrib. There are several hundred species.
- 1907, Robert William Chambers, chapter VIII, in The Younger Set, New York, N.Y.: D. Appleton & Company, OCLC 24962326: But when the moon rose and the breeze awakened, and the sedges stirred, and the cat’s-paws raced across the moonlit ponds, and the far surf off Wonder Head intoned the hymn of the four winds, the trinity, earth and sky and water, became one thunderous symphony—a harmony of sound and colour silvered to a monochrome by the moon.
- Any plant of the family Cyperaceae.
- sedge fly
- sedge frog
any plant of the genus Carex any plant of the family Cyperaceae
- Finnish: sarakasvi (fi)
- sedge on Wikipedia.Wikipedia
- Carex on Wikispecies.Wikispecies
By contraction from sedge fly.
sedge (plural sedges)
- (fishing) A dry fly used in fly fishing, designed to resemble a sedge or caddis fly.
sedge (plural sedges)
- Obsolete spelling of siege
- Alternative spelling of segge
- A flock of herons, cranes, or bitterns.
Types: show 15 types… hide 15 types… Cyperus alternifolius, umbrella plant, umbrella sedge African sedge widely cultivated as an ornamental water plant for its terminal umbrellalike cluster of slender grasslike leaves Cyperus esculentus, chufa, earth almond, ground almond, rush nut, yellow nutgrass European sedge having small edible nutlike tubers Cyperus longus, galangal, galingale European sedge having rough-edged leaves and spikelets of reddish flowers and aromatic roots Cyperus papyrus, Egyptian paper reed, Egyptian paper rush, paper plant, paper rush, papyrus tall sedge of the Nile valley yielding fiber that served many purposes in historic times Cyperus rotundus, nut grass, nut sedge, nutgrass, nutsedge a widely distributed perennial sedge having small edible nutlike tubers Carex arenaria, sand reed, sand sedge European maritime sedge naturalized along Atlantic coast of United States; rootstock has properties of sarsaparilla Carex pseudocyperus, cypress sedge tufted sedge of temperate regions; nearly cosmopolitan cotton grass, cotton rush any sedge of the genus Eriophorum; north temperate bog plants with tufted spikes Scirpus acutus, hardstem bulrush, hardstemmed bulrush widely distributed North American sedge having rigid olive green stems Scirpus cyperinus, wool grass sedge of eastern North America having numerous clustered woolly spikelets spike rush a sedge of the genus Eleocharis Eriophorum angustifolium, common cotton grass having densely tufted white cottony or downlike glumes Chinese water chestnut, Eleocharis dulcis, water chestnut Chinese sedge yielding edible bulb-shaped tubers Eleocharis acicularis, hair grass, needle rush, needle spike rush, slender spike rush fine-leaved aquatic spike rush; popular as aerator for aquariums Eleocharis palustris, creeping spike rush cylindrical-stemmed sedge Type of: bog plant, marsh plant, swamp plant a semiaquatic plant that grows in soft wet land; most are monocots: sedge, sphagnum, grasses, cattails, etc; possibly heath
Dictionary entry details
• SEDGE (noun)
Grasslike or rushlike plant growing in wet places having solid stems, narrow grasslike leaves and spikelets of inconspicuous flowers
Nouns denoting plants
Hypernyms (“sedge” is a kind of…):
bog plant; marsh plant; swamp plant (a semiaquatic plant that grows in soft wet land; most are monocots: sedge, sphagnum, grasses, cattails, etc; possibly heath)
Hyponyms (each of the following is a kind of “sedge”):
Cyperus alternifolius; umbrella plant; umbrella sedge (African sedge widely cultivated as an ornamental water plant for its terminal umbrellalike cluster of slender grasslike leaves)
chufa; Cyperus esculentus; earth almond; ground almond; rush nut; yellow nutgrass (European sedge having small edible nutlike tubers)
Cyperus longus; galangal; galingale (European sedge having rough-edged leaves and spikelets of reddish flowers and aromatic roots)
Cyperus papyrus; Egyptian paper reed; Egyptian paper rush; paper plant; paper rush; papyrus (tall sedge of the Nile valley yielding fiber that served many purposes in historic times)
Cyperus rotundus; nut grass; nut sedge; nutgrass; nutsedge (a widely distributed perennial sedge having small edible nutlike tubers)
Carex arenaria; sand reed; sand sedge (European maritime sedge naturalized along Atlantic coast of United States; rootstock has properties of sarsaparilla)
Carex pseudocyperus; cypress sedge (tufted sedge of temperate regions; nearly cosmopolitan)
cotton grass; cotton rush (any sedge of the genus Eriophorum; north temperate bog plants with tufted spikes)
hardstem bulrush; hardstemmed bulrush; Scirpus acutus (widely distributed North American sedge having rigid olive green stems)
Scirpus cyperinus; wool grass (sedge of eastern North America having numerous clustered woolly spikelets)
spike rush (a sedge of the genus Eleocharis)
Holonyms (“sedge” is a member of…):
Cyperaceae; family Cyperaceae; sedge family (bulrush; chufa; cotton grass; papyrus; umbrella plant)
sedgy (covered with sedges (grasslike marsh plants))