Sugar snap pea growing

Have you ever had a fresh from the garden sugar snap pea? If you’ve ever grown your own peas then you know what I mean by that fresh taste, you just can’t get the same taste from store-bought or even farm stand peas. Did you also know that peas aren’t that hard to grow? Just just need to know how. With these growing sugar snap pea tips below you can grow peas in your own backyard and enjoy that fresh from the garden taste.


How to Grow Your Own Sugar Snap Peas

Why do I grow peas? Well, one reason is because I can plant them so early. Plus growing sugar snap peas isn’t hard with the right conditions. Peas are a cool weather plant, meaning they like the cooler weather, better than the warmer weather. Here where I live, that means I can usually plant them right around President’s Day. Well, that is if the soil is dry enough.

The Three Main Types of Peas and Their Hardiness

There are three main types of peas, sweet pea, sugar snap pea and snow pea. Sweet Peas are full-sized peas that are in an inedible pod, these are what might be called shelling pea.

Snow Peas are peas with an edible pod, but the peas inside are usually small and not full sized.

Sugar Snap peas are peas that have an edible pod and have full-sized peas inside. Sugar snap peas are the kind that we grow at our house. We like them the best.

Peas can be grown in zones 3-11 on the USDA hardiness scale. We live in zone 8 and can usually plant our peas as early as the middle of February to the first of April.

If you live in a cooler climate planting times might be later. If you are in a warmer climate peas might be best added to your winter garden.

When to Plant Sugar Snap Peas

I usually try to plant sugar snap peas right around the middle of February. But if it’s too wet, peas don’t like wetness, I will plant them as late as the first of April.

The ideal time for planting peas is about 4-6 weeks before the last frost. The soil needs to be around 45 degrees.

Peas can be a little picky about germinating. If the soil is too cold or too hot they won’t germinate well. Plus too much rain can waterlog them.

To avoid germination problems, I like to sprout the sugar snap peas in the house before planting them in the garden. You don’t want to start the peas inside and then transplant them as they don’t do very well transplanted. You just want to sprout them.

It’s best to place the seeds in a wet paper towel and then leave it in a warm spot. I usually place the peas on a wet paper towel and fold the paper towel in half to fully enclose the peas.

Then I place the paper towel in a zipper bag and place the bag on top of the refrigerator. This keeps them just the right temperature to sprout. Once the peas have sprouted and have a few small roots. I transplant them to the garden.

This way if we get a lot of rain, the seeds don’t become waterlogged and just rot instead of sprouting. Plus I don’t have to fight the birds to leave them alone.

If you want a continuous harvest, plant new peas every few weeks, from late spring to early fall. Although I find they don’t really do well in temperatures above 70 degrees. I’ve tried to grow them all season long and they tend to struggle in the hot summer.

Growing Sugar Snap Peas or any Peas for that Matter

Sugar Snap Peas can be grown in full sun or in part sun. I’ve had good luck growing mine in full sun for about 6 hours a day. They seem to grow very nicely and produce well.

Peas grow best in well-drained soil. If your soil is clay-like be sure amend the soil to make it loamier, so it drains better.

When planting the pea seeds, in cooler weather plant the pea seeds about 1 inch deep. In warmer weather plant them a little deeper, about 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep.

We plant our peas using the square foot method. I divide an area of the garden into square foot squares and plant the seeds closely together. For peas, the square foot method recommends 8 pea plants per square foot.

For pole sugar snap peas, I will plant 4 on one side near the trellis and 4 on the other side of the square near the other side of the trellis. It seems to work well. You can also grow them in rows along a fence for support.

If you will be growing bush peas, just divide the seeds up evenly in the square foot. They don’t really need much support. I usually use a piece of decorative fencing to give them something to hold onto. Short pieces of bamboo will also work.

Peas don’t like too much water. Water about 1/2 inch per week until they bloom and then 1 inch per week until the pods fill out.

Harvesting Sugar Snap Peas

Be sure to pick the peas often. Pick daily to encourage new pods to develop. Use two hand when picking, one to hold and pull on the pea, the other to support the vine.

After harvesting peas can be stored in the refrigerator for about 5 days. I usually keep mine in a paper sack. If you want longer storage, it’s best to freeze them. Here’s how to freeze sugar snap peas.

Sugar snap peas are best prepared right after harvesting. The sugar turns to starch just a few hours after harvest. So try to harvest them close to eating. If you need some ideas for how to prepare sugar snap peas, here’s a few for you.

Companion Planting with Sugar Snap Peas

If your garden space is limited you can plant other plants along with the sugar snap peas. Some vegetables that grow well alongside peas are radishes, spinach, lettuce, and other early greens.

Cucumbers and potatoes are also good companion plants for peas. But try to keep peas away from garlic or onions. They just don’t like to be planted near them.

Growing Peas in Containers

If you don’t have garden space in the ground sugar snap peas can be grown in containers. Keep the plants in full sun and be sure to keep them moist but not too moist. Also, be careful not to let them dry out.

You can grow any of the three varieties of peas in a container. If growing bush peas in a container you probably won’t need any support at all.

But if you’ll be growing the pole variety, you’ll need to grow them near a fence or provide support for them. Support could be a pot with an attached trellis or even a large tomato cage would work. You might even try a few branches or bamboo poles with string laced between them. The peas don’t need too much support, like other vegetables. Just enough for them to hold onto something.

I hope these tips help you to successfully grow peas. They are a delicious to eat, raw or cooked. We add them to stir fry, cut them up and add them to our salads or just eat them right out of the garden.

If you have any tips to add or have a favorite recipe to share using peas, please leave them in the comments below.

Looking for more gardening ideas? Head on over to the gardening page for more gardening ideas and inspiration.

Make Your Own Pea Trellis with this Easy Tutorial

DIY Cattle Panel Trellis

Dont’ want to deal with a trellis for the peas?

Try growing bush peas instead here’s a guide to show you how.

Sharing is caring!


  • Pin
  • Share
  • Tweet

Are you looking for the best ways to grow great sugar snap peas that will be sweet, cool and crisp?

Sugar snaps are one of my all-time favorite veggies to grow in the garden. So, you’d better believe that I take great pride in growing LOTS and LOTS of peas that will be tasty all through the year.
One of the reasons I just LOVE to grow great sugar snap peas is because they are one of the very first crops you can harvest. As a cool season veggie, peas can be planted early and they thrive in the spring temperatures. Plus, they are delicious.
So, in this post, I will share:

  • My best tips for how to grow great sugar snap peas.
  • Different types and nutrition facts of snap peas.
  • How to preserve peas to enjoy later.

What Varieties to Grow Great Sugar Snap Peas?

There’s many varieties of sugar snap peas on the market, but how do you choose?
My favorite one to plant here in Kansas, is Little Marvel. Some other varieties include Knight, Mr. Big, and Green Arrow. Some Southern varieties that tend to grow better in warmer climates include Sugar Bon and Super Sugar Snap. All of these varieties are early maturing varieties, which means they will be ready in no time! Literally!
The following post gives you more information about how to choose the best garden seeds for your location and spot. Although experimentation is always fun, it’s always a good idea to plant varieties that are already working well in the area that you live in.

Starting Seeds Indoors

Peas can totally be germinated indoors and then transplanted outside. I have done this and it worked great!
At the bottom of this post (related posts) is my transplant post that will tell you everything you need to know about growing transplants from seed. You’re basically just germinating the seeds in a warmer environment for a head start.
Although it’s fun to work ahead and get that head start, you definitely want to make sure that the temperature outside is right for the plants you’re planting. It’s a good thing that peas love cooler weather. They will do just fine transplanted in the spring.
Let’s talk about planting peas outdoors in the proper seed or plant bed.

Before You Plant…

There are a few things you need to do to the soil before you plant peas. As I’ve mentioned, peas are legumes and use a bacteria called Rhizobium. You can increase this bacteria by leaving organic matter on the soil when you’re not using it. But also, you can apply a powder to the seed before planting or in a granular form:

Bacterium Innoculent

Another skill is to soil test your seed bed before planting. I’ve mentioned that peas are one of the earliest veggies you can plant in the spring. BUT, if planting seeds, you should make sure the temperature of the soil is at least 40 degrees F. This is so important. Don’t get in too big of a hurry.
Check out related posts below for my post on checking soil temperature. It’s an important post and skill you need to know for best germination and growing results!
Another skill you need to learn about is soil testing. You need to make sure your soil bed is right for peas. The pH should be between 6 and 6.5 and optimal fertility levels. Here’s my post all about soil testing:

Once you get your soil test results, you may need to apply some fertilizer. Since peas are a legume, they don’t need as much nitrogen as other veggies would. But, the Phosphorous and Potassium levels might be low. Therefore, a pre-planting application of 5-10-10 fertilizer can be set out at 3 pounds per 100 square feet.

Planting Specs to Grow Great Sugar Snap Peas

Peas love to grow in full sun! Full time sun exposure is not only best for the plants but it helps the plants make more sugar. This will help with the flavor of the peas you’ll be eating. YUM!
Once you know where you’ll be planting your peas, you’ll need to know how deep to plant them. If you’re planting seeds, plant them about 1/2 inch deep. The spacing of the seeds should be 2 inches apart and rows 1-2 feet apart.
Planting in wide rows also allows the pea plants to cling together and support each other. It also helps shade the plants’ roots and keep them cool. And it helps you to be able to get into the rows and control the weeds. Let’s talk about some more care tips for your pea plants.

Care of Your Pea Plants

As your pea plants grow, they will want to find each other. They will want to grab other plants and tangle up together. Isn’t this lovely?
Well, not always. If plants get too heavy, they will fall over. You will want to try trellising them for support. Use a fence, wire or twine to build next to the plants for them to climb up.
Another way to control weeds is to mulch them. You can use your own organic weed-free material or straw. A great mulch will not only control weeds but it will help to keep pea plant roots cool (Important for cool-season plants)!
Finally, be sure your peas are getting enough water. If your garden spot isn’t getting the rainfall, you’ll need to provide some water. The critical time period is when the plant is growing baby peas, after blooming.
So, ideally, peas should be watered in the early morning so that the foliage will be dry before dark of the day. This will help keep the ground from being too damp, thus freezing or molding at night.
Let’s talk about some more protection.

Protecting Your Peas

Pea plants are so delicate, which makes them delicious. I’ve had so much trouble with rabbits and even chickens in the past eating my baby pea plants! Not cool!
But a sturdy fence of chicken wire helped to keep those bunnies and chickens out. Here’s some common beneficial animals that can control control issues for your garden:

Beneficial wildlife can help protect your peas from aphids and other insects that can harm your pea plants.
Some other diseases you might see is powdery mildew and Fusarium wilt. These are both caused by over watering of your pea plants…So it’s really important to ONLY water when absolutely needed. And follow the recommendations above.
Continual care for your pea plants will result in a bountiful harvest! 🙂

Harvest Time

I know, I know. The moment you plant your peas, you’ll be dreaming of harvest. You’ll be visualizing all of those plants filled with pods plump full of sugary sweet peas.
But you’ll need to wait 55-70 days for that to happen. Which isn’t really as long as you might think.
Whichever varieties you choose to plant, the days to harvest should be on the bag. Typically, early varieties are ready to harvest in around 60 days. Mid-season varieties are generally ready in about 70 days.
Also, keep in mind of the pod development. The pods on the lower portion of the plants will be ready to pick first! Keep that in mind when checking your plants. You’ll need to pick up the plants and look at the bottom portion to find the pods that are tender and ready to pick.
What do the peas ready to pick really look like? For sugar snap peas, the pod will be plump and firm. The color should be bright green. You don’t have to pick peas everyday once harvest begins. Every 1 to 3 days will suffice. It totally depends on how the growing season is going and how healthy your plants are.
Finally, pick pods when the plants are dry. When harvesting, do not jerk pods from the vines as rough handling can cause plants to stop producing and even pull plants out of the ground. Use two hands, one to support the plant and the other to detach the pod.
Now you have all these peas! What are you going to do with them all?

Preserving Your Peas

I LOVE preserving peas to enjoy during the winter. I try to put up as many as possible.
You can pressure can your peas or freeze them. I love frozen peas in recipes and salads later, so that’s what I do. Here’s a video for how I blanche and freeze sweet peas:

Other Ways to Enjoy Peas

It shouldn’t be too hard but…It’s really important to eat or put up as soon as humanly possible.
This is because the sugary sweetness in peas quickly converts to an icky starch. You can store the fresh peas in the pods in the fridge for 2-3 days.
Are you wanting to learn how to pod peas? Watch this video I made for podding fresh sweet garden peas.

Nutrition Facts of Snap Peas

Not only are snap peas delicious. They are very nutritious as well.
Since they are full of sugar, they are a great good carbohydrate source. Not only that, but they are a great source of Vitamins A, K and C, thiamin, folate and protein!
What’s not to love?

Can You See Why I Love to Grow Great Sugar Snap Peas?

And they can quickly become your favorite, too. I hope this post has given you insight into how simple it is to grow great sugar snap peas.
What’s your favorite veggie to grow in the garden? Comment below with your answer.

~ Much Love ~

Make Gardening Simple Now!

Simple gardening equals smart gardening. In this short, easy to read book, you’ll get access to all the best practices and tips for gardening smarter and more successfully. If you want more information, I’ll send it right to your email inbox!

Caring for Peas

Peas don’t need as much attention as other vegetables, but do need support, weeding, some fertilizing and care.

Support for Climbers

‘Alderman’ and ‘Super Sugar Snap’ peas are both climbing varieties. Because they grow five to six feet tall, these peas usually need some type of support, like a fence, trellis or brush.

In single rows, position the support about three inches behind the row. For double rows, put it in between the rows, so the peas can grow up either side of the support. Or, to maximize space, you can plant a double row on each side of the trellis.

Supports are easy to make. A simple one uses 4- to 5-foot-long stakes placed five feet apart down the row. Run three wires horizontally between the stakes, one foot apart. If you prefer, use chicken wire with a 2-inch mesh instead of the separate wires.

Unlike other climbing vegetables, peas naturally grasp the support with their tendrils, though you may need to guide them gently towards the support as they become tall enough to reach it.


Because peas are good foragers, they don’t need much fertilizer – especially nitrogen. A day or two before planting, broadcast three to four pounds of 5-10-10 commercial fertilizer over each 100 square feet of garden space. Then work it into the top two to three inches of soil.

You may prefer to use organic fertilizers, such as well-rotted or dehydrated manure or bone meal. Spread a one- to two-inch layer over your raised beds and work in the material. If you use local manure, be sure it’s well aged. Animals’ digestive tracts don’t destroy weed seeds, so if you put fresh manure on your garden, you’ll probably also be planting weeds.

The primary ingredients of synthetic fertilizer are three nutrients that are vital to all plants: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). If you have a 100-pound bag of 5-10-10 fertilizer, it contains five percent nitrogen, 10 percent phosphorus and 10 percent potassium. (The order is constant.) The remaining 75 pounds is sand or other filler plus some trace minerals.

Each of the three major nutrients contained in fertilizer has a unique job to accomplish while your plants are growing. Nitrogen helps plants have healthy lush green foliage. However, too much nitrogen can burn seeds or plants if it comes in direct contact with them, and it can also generate too much vine growth rather than pods with peas inside. Phosphorus is necessary for the development of strong, healthy roots. Potassium, or potash, helps the plant to grow, bear fruit and resist diseases.

It’s important to mix chemical fertilizers thoroughly into the soil before you start planting.


Once your seedlings start to emerge, weeds also appear. Weeding is the scourge of gardening for most people, but it doesn’t have to be. If you stay ahead of it, which is easy with wide rows, you won’t have to bribe the neighborhood kids to do it for you.

With wide-row growing, you can usually drag an iron rake across the row as soon as the seedlings emerge in order to thin the row and get rid of early-germinating weeds. Do not do this with peas or beans. These plants are tender, and they may break. However, peas and beans grow quickly, forming a canopy that soon shades weed seedlings from the sun, which inhibits their growth.


When your single- and double-row plants are a few inches tall, you can sharply curtail weeding by putting mulch in the walkways. A 3- to 6-inch layer of mulch completely shades the ground, preventing weed growth.

Mulch also conserves moisture and helps to keep the ground at a constant cool temperature. Mulch is almost a necessity if your soil is sandy, warm and too dry. You can use black plastic, or organic mulches, such as bark, straw, lawn clippings, leaves or pine needles.

To keep moisture in the soil and weeds out, apply mulch soon after you cultivate following a soaking rain. Be sure not to add trouble where there wasn’t any before. Use only mulch that’s free of weed seeds.

Fertilizing and Watering Peas

Regularly watering peas will help them grow large, succulent pods. Pea plants have a shallow root system, so they don’t do a great job at absorbing moisture from the soil. Most pea plants will do fine without fertilizer, especially if they are growing in nutrient-rich soil. However, they can benefit from a small dose of liquid fertilizer when the seedlings first emerge, just to give them a head start.

Watering Peas

It’s best to water pea plants at least one a week with a deep soak, depending on the rainfall and temperatures in your area. Try not let the soil dry out completely. Very dry soil will negatively affect production. Pay special attention to when the plants are flowering and again when they are producing pods. This is the critical time when the plants need water the most. If your peas got started a little late in the year or hot weather comes early, you’ll probably need to water more often to keep the soil moist. If the pods appear and the weather turns hot, water you peas at least every other day to maintain pod production.

If using a hose when watering peas, keep the water pressure low so as not erode any soil covering the shallow root systems. A soaker hose will work fine, as will an adjustable sprayer on the end of a garden hose. Just set the sprayer to the “mist” setting and give your pea plants a good dose of water.

A layer of mulch can be applied to your pea patch. This will help keep moisture in the soil and keep down weeds. Grass clippings, chopped up leaves or straw all work well as mulch.

Fertilizing Peas

When you see the pea seedlings emerge from the soil and get about 2 inches tall, you can fertilize them once with an all purpose liquid fertilizer. This will give them the boost they need to develop tall, strong vines that will eventually support lots and lots of pea pods. Just apply the fertilizer when you would normally water your pea plants anyway.

It’s usually best if you only fertilize peas this one time during their life cycle. If you apply too much fertilizer, the plants will develop huge vines and leaves at the expense of pod production. If the soil in your garden is already rich with nutrients, you can get by with not fertilizing peas at all.

If you want to grow peas organically, work some compost or well rotted manure into the soil before planting. This will be more than enough to give your pea plants the nutrients they need.

Now that you know about fertilizing and watering peas, it’s time to think about harvesting them.

You might be surprised just how easy it is to grow sugar snap peas and snow peas in the spring and fall.

These sweet tasting pea varieties, as well as traditional green shelling peas, thrive in cooler weather.

In fact, peas are one of the earliest crops that can be planted each spring. And one of the last each fall!

The plum juicy goodness of a sugar snap pea

In addition, they require very little nutrients from the soil, and can produce a big crop in a short time.

How To Grow Sugar Snap Peas And Snow Peas

There are actually three main styles of peas.

Probably the most well known of the three is the traditional green shelling pea.

Often referred to as English peas, this variety requires shelling of a tough outer skin to reveal the tasty green peas inside.

Although they are delicious, today’s article covers the other two types. The snap-pea or sugar snap pea, and the snow pea.

These sugary-sweet peas can both be eaten pod and all.

Traditional English peas growing in a garden.

And with the ease of which they can be grown, it makes them an attractive addition to any backyard garden.

And the taste?

Let’s just say the crisp, tender flavor of sweet peas will make you want to grow them every chance you get!

Here is a look at each variety, along with planting and harvesting instructions. We have also included seed links to a few top varieties of each.

Snap Peas / Sugar Snap Peas

Sugar Snap peas (snap peas) are fat, plump peas that burst with flavor.

When picked early, they are extremely tender and juicy, and can be eaten pod and all.

Sugar snap peas are plump and juicy.

With their crisp, crunchy sweetness, they make the perfect snacking pea.

In fact, for many home gardeners, it is hard for them to even make it out of the garden.

For a special treat, try grilling them with a touch of salt. Absolutely delicious!

Great Varieties To Try : Sugar Lace 2 Pea Seeds – Sugar Sprint Pea Seeds

Snow Peas

Snow peas are the flat variety of peas most often found in stir-fries.

As they grow, their see-through outer coating reveals tender pods beneath the surface.

Snow peas are thin-skinned peas perfect for fresh snacking – and for stir fries!

Snow peas need to be picked early before the pods mature. This is when crispness and flavor are at their peak.

And just like snap peas, they can be eaten pod and all.

Great Varieties To Try : Snow Royal Seeds – Mammoth Melting Sugar – Sugar Pod 2 Snow Peas

How To Grow Sugar Snap Peas & Snow Peas – Planting And Harvesting

Peas love cool weather. In fact, they thrive in it.

Peas can be difficult to grow once summer sets in, so early planting is a must.

A pee seedling emerging from the ground in early spring

Once temperatures begin to consistently approach the mid-80’s, peas will begin to end their production.

Spring Planting

Plant pea seeds in early spring as soon as the ground warms to around 45 to 50 degrees.

Young pea plants can handle a bit of frost. In general, they can go in the ground about 2 to 3 weeks before your area’s last frost date.

Grilled sugar snap peas – a treat like no other!

Peas do not require super-rich soil to grow well. In fact, they actually help to improve the soil they are grown in.

Peas are a member of the legume family. And this family of plants is one of the few that help fix levels of nitrogen in the soil as they grow.

So not only are they tasty, they help your garden soil wherever you grow them!

How To Grow Sugar Snap Peas & Snow Peas – Planting Depth and Spacing

Plant seeds an inch deep in the soil, spacing them 1″ apart. Be sure to leave at least 18″ inches between rows.

Sugar snap and snow peas do not have to have a support or trellis. However, they are much easier to manage if allowed to climb.

How To Grow Sugar Snap Peas & Snow Peas : Peas grow best with a bit of support. It also makes them much easier to harvest!

A simple piece of fencing on a couple of stakes in the middle of each planting row will do the trick.

It really helps at harvest time!

How To Grow Sugar Snap Peas & Snow Peas – Maintaining and Harvesting The Crop

Once planted, peas benefit greatly from mulch. A two to three inch layer of compost or straw works wonders.

Mulch helps to keep the soil temperatures regulated, and conserves moisture as well. The compost mulch even provides a bit of extra nutrients to the peas as well.

It is important to harvest peas regularly. Pea plants will continue to produce blooms as long as the plant is not overloaded.

The more you pick, the more the plants will produce

If it becomes too heavy with peas, it is a signal to the plant to stop producing new blooms.

When warm weather finally puts an end to new blooms, simply pull up the plants and compost.

Fall Planting

Peas can also be planted in late summer for a fall crop. Planting in late summer lets the peas take off as the cool weather of fall sets in.

Plant peas about 6 to 10 weeks before your first average frost date.

You will be able to harvest up until the first hard frost. The pea plants can then be pulled and composted.

As a general rule of thumb, a fall harvest of peas will not be as prolific as a spring planting.

For more great spring garden crops, check out our article : 3 Great Spring Crops To Grow This Year

This Is My Garden

This Is My Garden is a garden website created by gardeners, publishing two articles every week, 52 weeks a year. This article may contain affiliate links.

Green peas are the absolute bomb! Why might you ask?

Well, because when you can plant green peas, that usually means that growing season is beginning. You’ll be planting the rest of your garden shortly between direct sowing or starting seeds for it.

Also, it means that you will have fresh homegrown vegetables in your kitchen again in only a short time.

But how do you grow peas, and what can you do with them once you have grown them? I’m going to explain everything you need to know about growing peas.

Let’s get moving—

Peas Plant Info

  • Hardiness Zones: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
  • Soil: Loam, PH between 5.5 to 7.0, well-drained, rich in humus
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun, part sun
  • Planting: Plant directly outdoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date, when soil temperatures reach 45 degrees fahrenheit
  • Spacing: 2 to 4 inches between plants and 18 to 48 inches between rows
  • Depth: 1 inch seed depth
  • Best Companions: Beans, carrots, celery, corn, cucumber, eggplant, pepper, radish, spinach, tomato, turnip
  • Worst Companions: Onion, garlic, leek, potato, shallot
  • Watering: Water sparsely during plant growth period, heavily after blooms form
  • Fertilizing: Side dress with compost or low nitrogen fertilizer when vines are 6 inches tall
  • Common Problems: Aphanomyces root rot, ascochyta disease, brown spot, downy mildew, fusarium root rot, gray mold, powdery mildew, rhizoctonia seedling blight, septoria blotch, bacterial blight, streak, enation mosaic, aphids, leafminers, Mexican bean beetle, thrips, root knot nematode, spider mites
  • Harvest: When the pods are plump, bright green, and round, 60 to 70 days after planting

Green Peas Varieties

There are only three popular varieties of green peas for your garden. They are:

1. Sweet Peas


Sweet peas have a sweet flavor and are what you purchase at the grocery store in a can. The pods are not edible, but the peas are delicious.

2. Snow Peas


Snow peas are good for cooking in Asian cuisine. They have both edible peas and pods. The pods are flat which makes them easy to recognize. A lot of people like to snack on snow peas too.

3. Snap Peas


Snap peas are another type of pea that some people use as a snack and in a stir-fry. Both the pods and peas are edible. The main difference is that the peas in snap peas are larger than those in snow peas.

How to Grow Green Peas: Steps

Green peas are very simple to grow. The most important aspect is to be sure of, is that you have the timing right for planting. Here is what you need to know:

1. Prepare the Beds

It is recommended to start your garden beds in the fall. This will give you time to till up the ground, apply compost, and mulch as well.

If you didn’t start your beds in the fall, that’s okay. Just till the ground as early as you can and apply compost to work into the soil.

You’ll also need to decide if you want to plant your peas in a regular garden bed or a raised bed. If your soil doesn’t drain well, then it might be better to plant your peas in raised beds.

Once you’ve made all of these decisions and preparations, you’re ready to move on.

2. Timing is Everything

Next, you need to understand that timing is the most critical aspect when planting peas. Peas do best in cold and moist weather. If you wait too long to plant, the heat will get them and kill your harvest.

But if you plant when the soil is too moist, or the ground isn’t warm enough, then your harvest will never start.

It is recommended to check a planting schedule to know when the best time is to plant in your zone. You also need to check the moisture in your area. Peas like moisture.

However, if the ground is too wet when planting, and it stays moist for days, it will damage your seeds.

Also, if you see snow in the forecast, don’t panic. Instead, plant the peas because a light covering of snow won’t hurt new seedlings.

But if you see temperatures in the forecast where it is going to stay down in the teens for days on end, then know that you will probably have to replant.

Finally, the ideal temperatures for peas are when the soil is above 45 degrees Fahrenheit but below 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

As you can see, there are a lot of factors to take in consideration when deciding to plant. Just judge it the best you can. Worst case scenario you’ll have to replant.

3. Plant Your Seeds


After preparing your beds and judging the weather, you are ready to plant. You want to plant your seeds four to six weeks before the final frost. That is what makes the weather so difficult to judge because that is the time when the weather can go either way.

Once you feel confident in the timing, sow your seeds. Each seed needs to be planted 1.5 inches deep and an inch apart from the next seed. You can plant your peas in single or double rows.

If you plant your seeds in a single row, then each row needs to be anywhere from 18 to 24 inches apart. The double rows need to be about eight to ten inches apart.

When the seeds have proper spacing and are in the ground, you are ready to move onto learning how to care for them properly.

How to Care for Peas

Peas require very little care. If you follow a few basic rules, then your harvest should do just fine. Here is what you need to know:

1. Water Sparingly

You don’t need to water peas very often. The weather will probably take care of most of the watering for you because of the time of year.

However, if the peas begin to wilt, then you’ll know to water them more often. Go by the looks of your peas to see if they need additional water or not.

2. Don’t Fertilize Much

Peas don’t require much fertilizer. You can add some sparingly if you think your plants appear to be in need of nutrients.

But beware of adding too much because peas don’t want or need much nitrogen. If you add too much to the soil, you can damage your crop.

3. Don’t Hoe Your Garden

A lot of times we’ll see weeds coming through in our crops and think that we need to begin pulling them or hoeing our garden.

In this case, don’t do that. Peas’ roots are shallow, and you can easily damage them if you hoe your garden too rough.

4. Rotate Crops and Mulch

Peas can attract diseases that form in the soil. With this in mind, it is a good idea to rotate your pea crop ever two years.

Also, it is a good idea to mulch around your peas. This will help to keep weeds down, the soil cooler, and moisture in.

Common Problems with Peas

Every plant has its problems. Peas are no different. Here is what you need to be aware of when growing peas:

1. Aphids


Aphids are a threat to many plants because they seem to show up in almost every garden. They are tiny bugs that cause problems with your plants, but also leave a residue that draws even more pests to your garden.

Also, you will notice that you have aphids (aside from seeing them) if your plants’ leaves become discolored or misshapen. You will see the sticky residue on your plants as well.


If you have aphids, you’ll want to get rid of them. You can try to spray your plants with cold water to get them to dislodge from the leaves. You can also try dusting your plants with flour.

Finally, try using an insecticidal soap to rid yourself of the aphids problem

2. Mexican Bean Beetles


Mexican Bean Beetles are little bugs that look similar to ladybugs. They do similar damage as Japanese Beetles.

They eat your plants and leave only a skeletal remain of them behind.

There are few ways to rid yourself of Mexican Bean Beetles. You can try insecticides or handpick the beetles off of your plants when you see them.

A personal recommendation (if you have the room and patience) is to consider getting guinea fowl. They are noisy birds, but very productive as well and will eat these pests.

3. Woodchucks


Some people call them woodchucks, I call them groundhogs. Whatever you call them, these little critters can destroy your pea harvest. If you are unfamiliar with groundhogs, they look like overgrown squirrels. They weigh around ten pounds and are about three feet long.

Unfortunately, these critters are also binge eaters. When you have one, they can scope out your garden and destroy it in a matter of minutes.

You can begin to protect your garden by sprinkling blood meal and ground black pepper around the edge of your garden.

Then you can also try putting a fence around your garden too. Try to locate the hole of the groundhog and clog it to encourage them to move on.

Finally, if nothing else works, use a humane trap and relocate the animal yourself.

4. Fusarium Wilt

This is a fungal disease that begins in the soil. It attacks the plant’s roots and then makes its way up the plant interfering with water distribution throughout the plant.

From this, your plants will begin to wilt.

You can attempt to treat this disease with fungicides. You should also cut the dead from the plant to stop the spreading.

Also, check your soil. If your soil is high in nitrogen, it is making the plants more susceptible. You should try to balance your soil and also stop fertilizing so much in the event this disease has developed.

Companions for Peas Plant

Most vegetables have plants that they grow better around, and they also have a few that should not be planted around them. Peas are no exception. The best companion plants to plant with peas are:

  • Beans
  • Carrots
  • Corn
  • Cucumbers
  • Eggplant
  • Lettuce
  • Melons
  • Parsnips
  • Potatoes
  • Radishes
  • Spinach
  • Turnips

The plants that peas should stay away from are:

  • Onions
  • Garlic

How to Harvest and Store Your Peas

via (Andrew Graver)

Harvesting peas is a simple process. You need to pick your peas as frequently as possible. The more you pick, usually, the more your plants will produce.

Then be sure that you don’t try to pick peas like you do beans. Pea pods are a little sturdier than beans. You’ll have to use one of your hands to pull the pod from the plant, while the other hand secures the plant.

If you pick with one hand, you run the risk of pulling the plant out of the ground.

Once you pick your harvest, you need to know how to preserve it.

Well, you are in luck. There are different options for preserving your harvest:

1. Store in the Fridge

When you pick your harvest, you don’t have to store your peas for long-term storage. You can toss them in the fridge, and they’ll stay good for five to seven days.

2. Freeze

Peas can also be frozen. You can freeze them in their pods (if you planted a variety where you would eat the pods.)

But if not, then you’ll want to shell them before freezing. It is usually a good idea to clean and Blanche your peas before freezing too. That way it is less work when you thaw them and are ready to cook.

3. Dry

Some people like to use peas in soups over the winter. For this reason, they choose to dry their peas. There are different methods for each, so be sure to follow the method for the type of pea you have grown.

4. Can Them

When I raise peas, it is to can them. Canning peas isn’t an easy task because you have to shell and clean them prior to the actual canning process.

But I enjoy having them on my shelf for a side dish or soup for later in the year.

Recipes for Your Green Peas

1. Creamed Peas

I love creamed peas! I don’t think there is a side dish that compares. It is based on a delicious green vegetable.

Then you add a creamy cheese sauce that makes it warm and comforting. It is an excellent all-around dish.

2. Creamy Pea Salad

Are you looking for a delicious salad that is a little different from your typical salad? Then look no further than creamy pea salad.

The recipe calls for peas, onion, Mayonnaise, bacon, and two different kinds of cheese. This one sounds like a home run.

3. Crunchy Roasted Green Peas

When my children were younger, I depended upon recipes from Super Healthy Kids to get them to eat anything healthy.

So when I saw this recipe, I knew it was a must share. Whether you are looking for a delicious, healthy snack or you need something fun for your kids to eat, you’ll want to give this recipe a try.

Well, you now have a lot of reliable information on growing green peas. Hopefully, you’ll have a productive and exciting growing season.

Now, I want to hear from you. Do you grow peas? Do you have any tips or recipes you’d like to share?

We love hearing from you. Leave us your thoughts in the comment section below.

Was this article helpful?


How can we improve it?


We appreciate your helpul feedback!

Your answer will be used to improve our content. The more feedback you give us, the better our pages can be.

Follow us on social media:

Facebook Pinterest

How to Grow Green Peas at Home.

Introduction: Hello gardeners, today we are here with a great information of how to grow green peas, how to care green peas plants in home garden. Green peas are a very popular vegetable. They are quite nutritious and contain a fair amount of fiber and antioxidants.

A step by step guide to How to grow green peas at home

Green peas are a great addition to your food menu because in addition to their concentration of vitamins and minerals. They provide the carotenoid phytonutrients, lutein, and zeaxanthin, which are known to promote vision and eye health.

Here we discuss growing green peas at home;

Preparing the site for growing green peas

To give your plants the best head start, turn over your green pea planting beds and add compost or manure to the soil in the fall. Carefully add wood ashes and bone meal to the soil before planting. Green peas need phosphorus and potassium, but excess nitrogen will encourage foliage growth instead of flowers or pods.

Select a spot that gets at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. Green peas prefer full sun. Observe your yard throughout the day, and note which areas obtain good sunlight. Since afternoon sunlight can be intense, go for a spot that gets lots of sunlight in the morning, but is partly shaded later in the day. Some green peas do well in partial shade or 4 to 6 hours of sun.

Green Peas Gardening.

Soil preparation for growing green peas

Use a loamy and well-drained commercial potting mix or prepare your own but never substitute it with regular garden soil when growing green peas in containers. If you’re planting green peas in a very sunny location, increase the moisture-holding capacity of your soil or water more frequently. Peas are not fussy about soil pH level and do well in slightly acidic to neutral soils.

Choose the right variety of peas

Snap peas or dwarf peas will grow well indoors all year round and obtain seeds for your peas from a local garden center.

Sweet peas – Sweet peas have a sweet flavor and are what you purchase at the grocery store in a can and the pods are not edible, but the peas are delicious.

Snow peas – Snow peas are very good for cooking in Asian cuisine. The snow peas have both edible peas and pods. The pods are flat which makes them easy to identify.

Snap peas – Snap peas are another kind of pea that some people use as a snack and in a stir-fry. The snap peas have both edible peas and pods. The major difference is that the peas in snap peas are larger than those in snow peas.

You should not miss the Vegetable Garden Layout, Design.

Requirements for growing green peas at home

Green peas are a cool-season crop that should mature before the weather gets hot. The ideal growing weather is moist with temperatures between 60 and 65°F. Plant peas as soon as the soil can be worked in spring about 6 weeks before the average date of the last frost. Green peas need good drainage in soil that is high in organic material. They generate earlier in sandy soil, but yield a heavier, later crop if grown in clayey soil. Plant green peas directly in the garden 2 inches deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Don’t let the soil dry out; green peas need ample moisture. Give a three-foot-high trellis to support the vines.

Growing green peas indoors is possible, if you have a south or west-facing window that receives at least 5 to 6 hours of direct sunlight. A 6 inches deep window box is fine to grow dwarf varieties of peas. You can plant tall varieties if you’ve space. For support, poke short stakes close to the plants when they are 4-6 inches tall without damaging the fragile roots. Water carefully and moderately to avoid pests and diseases.

Select a container for growing green peas

Almost any container will work as long as you have drainage holes (or make 3 to 5 holes with a hammer and nail) and measures least 12 inches across. Fill the container with soil leaving a one-inch space at the top. Create support for the potted green pea with bamboo poles or stakes set into the center of the pot. Space the green pea seeds 2 inches apart and 1 inch beneath the soil. Water in thoroughly and top with a one-inch layer of mulch, like compost or wood chips. Keep the seeds in a lightly shaded area until the germination period 9-13 days at which time you should move them to full sun exposure.

Grow green peas in a container

  • First of all, choose the green pea variety you wish to plant. Almost everything in the Leguminosae family, from snap peas to shelling peas, can be container grown; however, you may wish to choose a dwarf or bush variety. Peas are a cool-season crop, so growing green peas in a container should begin in the spring when temperatures warm to over 60 F.
  • The size of the pot will depend on the types of green peas and their varieties you’re growing.
  • For tall and large bushier varieties, choose pots that are 8 to 12 inches deep and as wide as possible. Keep the spacing of 3 to 5 inches between each plant.
  • For dwarf and short varieties, obtain pots that are 6 inches deep. Please maintain the spacing of 2 to 3 inches between each plant.

Temperature requirement for growing green peas

Green peas grow well in moderately cool weather. The green peas don’t tolerate extremes of temperature. They produce best in springtime and early summer in the cool climate and late fall and winter in tropics. Green peas grow well in the temperature range between 60-75°F.

Trellis for your green pea plants

Growing green peas in a container garden does require that you have some sort of trellis. The green pea plants will be much healthier if they are allowed to grow vertically. Most pea plants will produce to a maximum height of about 3 feet. Check seed variety for the plant height.

You can need to cut the bottom of it if your container depth is shallow. You can make your own with some bamboo rods. You can use 3 or 4 and form a cone shape and tie them at the top.

Just make sure that the trellis that you use will support the weight of the green pea plants when they fully mature. Those that grow on your porch can use the railing if you want to manually assist the plant in finding it. Just be careful if you have to move the plant as it is a hollow stem and can break simply if tugged.

You may also check the Rooftop Vegetable Gardening.

Growing green peas from seeds

Growing green peas from seeds are easy, and it requires a few steps given below:

  • Sow seeds 1 or 2 inches apart in the seed mix or directly in the desired containers, an inch or two deep.
  • It’s false that peas seedling doesn’t transplant well, you can plant them when they are 4-5 inches tall.
  • You can scatter the seeds briskly over the growing medium and later cover them with the soil with no more than a 1-inch layer.
  • Water well to maintain the soil moist but not wet. Keep the germinating seeds in part sun to full sun.
  • Seeds will germinate in a window of 7 to 30 days; it mainly depends on the soil temperature. Temperature above 60°F (15°C) expedites the germination.
  • You can soak the seeds in water for 24 hours before sowing to speed up the germination process and pre-treat them with liquid seaweed for better growth.

Provide plenty of water to the green peas

Green peas prefer cool and moist soil but avoid the overwatering and constantly soggy situation. Otherwise, the plants will rot or generate a lower yield. Also, you can’t let the soil dry out completely, particularly when the plants are germinating or producing pods.

Container-grown green peas need a greater supply of water than their garden-grown counterparts. Make sure the topsoil is never dry, and the pea plants don’t show signs of wilting.


Green peas don’t require heavy feeding as they produce nitrogen intermittently on the ground. However, in containers, fertilizing green peas moderately is necessary.

How to care for green peas

  • Water sparsely unless the green pea plants are wilting. Do not let the plants dry out, or no pods will be produced.
  • To avoid disturbing fragile roots, gently eliminate intrusive weeds by hand.
  • It’s best to rotate green pea crops every year or two to avoid a buildup of soil-borne diseases. In between green pea plantings, plant other vegetables to take advantage of the nitrogen-rich soil.
  • Peas are best grown in temperatures 60 to 75°F. Once temperatures get above 80°F, green peas tend to stop producing pods or the pods become tough.


The main pests which affect green peas are aphids and maggots. The maggots can be prevented with standard inspection and making sure to catch the infestation in the egg stage. You can obtain rid of those pesky aphids, with hard streams of water to the stems and leaves.

How to harvest green peas

  • Keep your green peas well picked to encourage more pods to develop.
  • The time from planting to harvest green peas is 55 to 80 days. Pick shelling peas when the pods are full and green color before the peas start to harden.
  • Pick green peas in the morning after the dew has dried and they are crispiest then.
  • Always use two hands when you pick green peas. Secure the vine with one hand and pull the peas off with another hand to avoid damaging the plant.
  • Green peas can be frozen or kept in the refrigerator for about 5 days and place in paper bags, then wrap in plastic.

You may be interested in Lentil Cultivation Income, Profit, Project Report.

Green Peas

With their climbing vines, green peas are a lovely addition to your vegetable garden.

With green peas, it’s true that good things come in small packages. In your garden, green peas are no small presence — they grow in lovely climbing vines.

Unlike black-eyed peas, green peas are a cool-season crop that must mature before the weather gets hot. The ideal growing weather is moist with temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant peas as soon as the soil can be worked in spring: about six weeks before the average date of last frost. Peas need good drainage in soil that is high in organic material. They produce earlier in sandy soil, but yield a heavier, later crop if grown in clayey soil. Plant peas directly in the garden 2 inches deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Don’t let the soil dry out; peas need ample moisture. Provide a three-foot-high trellis to support the vines.

Harvesting Green Peas

The time from planting to harvest is 55 to 80 days. Pick shelling peas when the pods are full and green, before the peas start to harden. Edible pod peas are grown the same way as sweet peas, but harvest the immature pods before the peas have developed to full size. Pods should be plump, but the individual peas should not be showing through the pod.

Types of Green Peas

Some varieties of green peas include pods that are edible and as delicious as the peas themselves.

We’ve listed the different varieties of green peas below.

  • Little Marvel, harvest at 63 days, has compact growth and produces dark green pods.
  • Wando, harvest at 68 days, is tolerant of heat.
  • Maestro, harvest at 61 days, is prolific, producing 9 to 12 peas per dark green pod.
  • Oregon Sugar Pod II, harvest at 68 days, produces a 41/2-inch edible snow pea.
  • Super Sugar Snap, harvest at 64 days, an All America Selection, is a 3-inch edible snap pea.
  • Snow Wind, harvest at 709 days, is a flat, edible pod variety that is disease resistant.
  • Paso, harvest at 55 days, is a 2-inch dwarf with high yields of baby shelling peas.

Learn how to select green peas in the next section.
Want more information about green peas? Try:

  • Vegetable Recipes: Find delicious recipes that feature green peas.
  • Vegetable Gardens: Grow a full harvest of great vegetables this year.
  • Gardening: We answer your questions about all things that come from the garden.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *