Stages of a pumpkin

A Pumpkin’s Life is a Sesame Street-style pumpkin time-lapse originally filmed in 2011 by Jon Fletcher at Sykes-Cooper Farms in Elkton, Florida. To capture each stage, he built a solar-powered camera to capture the pumpkins from seed to October-ready fruit. What does it take to grow a pumpkin?

…pumpkins require anywhere from 75-100 days or more to grow… larger varieties take longer to produce. They don’t like cold, which makes it vital you wait until all danger of frost has passed before trying to plant them. Ideal soil temperatures for pumpkins is 70-95 degrees Fahrenheit.

Second, pumpkins need full sun and plenty of room to spread out when growing. Their vines can reach anywhere from 50-100 feet per plant.

Finally, be sure to plant pumpkins in nutrient-rich soil because they’re heavy feeders. The soil should also be well-drained. If they can’t get what they need from the soil, you shouldn’t expect a big harvest.

And with Dill’s Atlantic Giant seeds, rich soil, the right weather, and some luck, you might grow a giant pumpkin like the 2,528 pound 2018 record-breaking one grown by New Hampshire man Steve Geddes. Start preparing the soil in autumn for next year’s yield.

Learn more about pumpkins with this True Food explainer. Then watch pumpkin carving artist Lenny Calvin create a spooky goblin face and a 1,223 pound pumpkin growing from seed to scale.

Bonus: The Growing Cycles of Vegetables.

Save This

Information About Fertilizing and Watering Pumpkins

You’ll probably have to spend a fair amount of time watering pumpkins in the summertime because they get so large and require quite a bit of water. They are generally thirsty plants by nature. Like most other plants, pumpkins get their food from the soil. They absorb these nutrients by absorbing water. Pumpkins require more water than many other vegetable plants because of their sheer size. Think about it, a grown man weighing 250 pounds requires more food than a small girl weighing 40 pounds. Pumpkin plants are producing fruit that is heavy. This fruit production requires lots of food. Additionally, pumpkins themselves have a very high water content. This water has to come from somewhere during dry periods – namely, YOU!

Watering Pumpkins

When watering pumpkins, soil consistency is an important consideration. If you live in an area with denser soil, you will have to water less often. However, if your soil is more sandy in nature, you’ll need to water more.

Use your fingers and dig about an inch into the soil next to your pumpkin plant. Be careful not to disturb the roots. If the soil is dry, it’s time to water.

When watering pumpkin plants, focus your efforts at the base of the plant and go slow to avoid eroding away the soil. Try to avoid watering the tops of the plants as this may cause diseases to develop. It’s generally a good idea to water in the early morning hours. That way, the afternoon sun will evaporate any water that may have accumulated on the foliage. A soaker hose or drip irrigation system both work well, but a simple watering can or jug will do nicely, too.

If no rain falls in your area, a slow, deep soak will be needed every 7-10 days. Continue watering until consistent puddles form on the surface of the soil.

Fertilizing Pumpkins

We’ve already established that pumpkin plants are heavy feeders. You’ll probably benefit by feeding your pumpkin patch a couple of times throughout the season. Before planting, you can always mix in some compost or well-rotted manure with the soil when creating the mounds. After the plant is established, you can help it with a dose of fertilizer every month or so, after the flowers appear. The fertilizer you use should be low in nitrogen and high in phosphate and potassium. 5-15-15 or 8-24-24 fertilizer ratios work best. If you use a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, your pumpkin plants will become very large but won’t produce much fruit.

If you use a granular type fertilizer to feed pumpkins, pay attention to the 3 number code on the bag of fertilizer. These three numbers indicate the amount of nitrogen, phosphate and potassium that are contained in that particular fertilizer, respectively. For instance, a 10-10-10 fertilizer contains 10% nitrogen, 10% phosphate and 10% potassium. A 5-10-10 bag would contain 5% percent nitrogen. A 10-5-10 bag would contain 10% nitrogen, 5% phosphate and 10% potassium.

When using granular fertilizer, apply it according to the manufacturer’s instructions – usually at a rate of 1 1/2 pounds per 100 square feet. Scatter the granules on the ground around the plant and water them in well. Be careful that the granules don’t come in contact with the plant itself, as it may burn or have other adverse effects.

You may choose to use a water soluble type of fertilizer rather than a granular type. This works well too. There are many fertilizers made especially for use on pumpkins. They should be available at your local garden center. However, they can be fairly expensive and you’ll probably have just as much success with a good, all-purpose fertilizer with a lower nitrogen content.

In our own garden, we mix a balanced granular fertilizer into the soil before we plant. We water it in well and till one last time before making our mounds and planting the seeds. After that, we switch to a water-soluble fertilizer that has about twice as much phosphate and potassium as nitrogen.

When feeding and watering pumpkins, or anytime you are walking in your pumpkin patch, be very careful where you walk. There are tiny roots that run all along each vine. These roots spread out an inch or two under the soil. Do your best to avoid stepping on these delicate root systems. Some people put down boards to walk on. This also prevents compacting the soil under foot. If you don’t want to go to this effort, at least follow the same path every time you walk in your pumpkin patch.

Now that you’re done fertilizing and watering pumpkins, you can sit back and watch them grow. As the pumpkins start to develop deep, mature colors, it’s time to think about harvesting them.

Pumpkin Fertilizer Requirements: Guide To Feeding Pumpkin Plants

Whether you’re after the great pumpkin that will win first prize at the fair, or lots of smaller ones for pies and decorations, growing the perfect pumpkin is an art form. You spend all summer tending your vine, and you want to get the most out of it that you can. Fertilizing pumpkins is essential, as they will devour nutrients and run with them. Keep reading to learn more about pumpkin fertilizer requirements.

Fertilizer for Pumpkins

Pumpkins are heavy feeders and will eat up whatever you give them. Different nutrients promote different kinds of growth, however, so when fertilizing pumpkins, it’s important to pay attention to what stage of growth your pumpkin is in and feed it accordingly.

Commercial fertilizers come with three numbers on their packaging. These numbers represent nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, always in that order. When feeding pumpkin plants, apply three successive fertilizers, each heavy in one of those numbers, in that same order.

Nitrogen promotes green growth, making for plenty of vines and leaves. Apply a weekly nitrogen-heavy fertilizer early in the growing season to produce a healthy plant. Once the flowers start to form, switch to a phosphorus-heavy fertilizer for plentiful blossoms. When the actual pumpkins appear, use a potassium-rich fertilizer for healthy fruit.

Feeding Pumpkin Plants

Fertilizer is important, but sometimes a little can go a long way. Nitrogen promotes growth, but if you add too much, you risk burning your leaves or reducing flower growth. Similarly, too much potassium can sometimes encourage pumpkins to grow faster than they’re meant to and cause them to explode right out of their skins!

Apply your fertilizer in moderation and wait to see what results a little gets you before adding a lot. If you’re new to growing pumpkins, a very basic and balanced 5-10-5 fertilizer applied moderately all through the growing season is much less intensive and should still yield good results.

GROWING ATLANTIC GIANT PUMPKINS

Whether you are a current grower or a newcomer, all the information you need to grow your own GIANT pumpkin or to become a Port Elgin Pumpkinfest Grower is contained in this area of the website.

Click here to download a simple two-page “how-to” to help you grow a giant pumpkin and don’t forget to visit our seed inventory to find that special seed to grow you that big one!

The Giant Vegetable Growers of Ontario have made their 10th Anniversary Summer Newsletter available to everyone who is interested. Click here to download a PDF copy of the newsletter

How to Grow a Giant Pumpkin!

1. Prepare soil by adding mixture of manure, peat moss, granular fertilizer and compost (leaves, grass, fruit, vegetable peelings, coffee grounds, etc). Rotor-till into soil and keep soil as loose as possible. Ensure you have lots of earthworms to process the decaying material and provide valuable nutrients for the plants. Ideal ph is between 6.5 and 7.2.

2. Start of May, file edges of seed, except for the pointed end, with a nail file or fine sandpaper and then soak in water overnight. Wrap in damp paper towel and place in plastic bag in warm place (at least 26° C). This process is called germination.

3. Once seed starts to split and you can see root emerge (in about 24-48 hours), plant them in 4″ pots (equal mixture vermiculite, perlite, peat moss). Fertilize with 10-52-10 when transplanting. Place pots in a heat tray at 21-23°C. A fluorescent light placed a few inches above the pot will help your seedling ‘green-up’ faster and prevent the stem from getting ‘leggy’. The ‘seed leaves’ will appear first and then the first “true leaf’ will appear in the centre. If roots start outgrowing pot, and the weather is uncooperative to transplant directly outdoors, transplant into 12” pots lined with old grocery bags with holes in bottom (will help with later transplants). Again fertilize with 10-52-10 to prevent shock.

4. Pumpkins like full all-day sun, good well drained soil, and lots of room to grow.

5. Around May 20th, plant outside in garden under mini greenhouses or hoophouses to keep warm. Place plant and bag in hole in ground and tear away bag. Place the seedling in the ground up to the bottom of the seed leaves, insuring that the first true leaf, the one in the middle, is facing the opposite direction that you want your main vine to run. The soil temperature should be kept over 22°C. A small candle in a sand-filled jar will keep the temperature even on a chilly night. Transplant with 10-52-10 to gets roots well established.

6. June 1st, switch to an all purpose fertilizer 20-20-20 every 10-14 days. For large plants feed up to 100L per plant. When the air temperature rises about 23°C the greenhouses can be removed but remember to protect the plant whenever there is the threat of cool temperatures, especially overnight.

7. As your vine grows, it will sprout secondary vines. These vines should be nurtured as the mine vine is, however, off these secondaries will grow tertiary vines (sucker vines). These vines rob the plant of valuable nutrients and should be pinched off when they appear. Lay the vines out in a ‘Christmas Tree’ pattern (main vine as the ‘trunk ‘and secondary vines as the ‘branches’) so they can be maintained and excess sucker vines can be pruned off. This also gives room for weeding and feeding. Weed until the pumpkins are big enough to crowd out competition.

8. Begin to watch for insect problems. The cucumber beetles are small yellow and black striped beetles which eat leaves. The vine borer tunnels into the vines and saps the energy out of the plant. Sometimes aphids will attack the underside of the leaves. There are many insecticides and organic sprays available to control these situations.

9. Pumpkins produce both male and female flowers. Males have longer stems and females have a short stem with a bulb (or baby pumpkin) under the blossom. The males will be the first to show and will be followed by the females about a week or so after.

10. July 1st-20th – watch for male and female flowers, cover these flowers with plastic baggies and when female opens (only for a couple of hours one day), pollinate the female by cutting male flowers from the plant and gently rubbing the pollen all over the segments in the female flower. (Re-cover to stop insect cross pollination). If you only have one plant and are not concerned about preserving the lineage of your pumpkin’s genetic line, you can let the bees do this work for you.

11. When a pumpkin has reached the size of a basketball, choose the best pumpkin on main vine and remove all other pumpkins and flowers. This ensures the plant feeds just one pumpkin and allows it to grow into a giant. It will grow very fast and can grow up to 22.5 kg a day at peak growth.

12. As it grows, bury vines to encourage roots along the vine. Prune off sucker vines. Keep feeding and watering.

13. Protect your pumpkin with large 6’x 6′ shelter and slope the roof so no water drips on it. Protect pumpkin from the wind.

14. Mid-August – the main vine should be allowed to grow to a minimum of 15′, secondaries should grow to a minimum of 8′. After these lengths have been reached and when the vines reach the perimeter of the patch, pinch off the very end of the new growth and bury the ends of the vines. Cover pumpkins on cool nights. Many growers are now using natural products to feed their pumpkins (fish/seaweed liquids, molasses etc)

15. September should bring you a pumpkin over 600 pounds, so time to look into attending Port Elgin Pumpkinfest!

Remember it is only 125-150 days from seed to harvest, so don’t start too soon.

Good luck growing!

Pumpkin

Pumpkins, the source of many a young girl’s daydreams. Turns into a carriage, takes you to the ball, something about glass slippers and a happy ending! As a young girl, and even as a not so young girl, I was never one for the whole Cinderella thing, but I too had dreams of pumpkins! Well, more specifically, my Mum’s pumpkin soup! The secret ingredient to this oft imitated, never duplicated soup, was home grown pumpkinney goodness (or ginger, I can’t quite remember). So now you too can grow your own giant orange balls of tastiness!

Planting Schedule

Warm Areas: All Year Round!
Temperate Areas: After last frost in winter
Cool to Cold Areas: After last frost in winter

Position, Position, Position!

The biggest thing to remember about pumpkins is that they LOVE space, and I reckon that each vine needs about 1m². So, here’s a hot tip: find a sunny spot out of the way a bit (like the forgotten side of the house or shed), pile up some compost, whack in two vines and walk away. Pumpkins like their privacy, and can suffer a bit if they are trod on, cut or damaged.

Talking Dirty

Growing pumpkins is so easy, even my evil stepsisters can manage it (that’s a joke by the way!). Pumpkins love compost, I mean they really love compost. That’s why you’ll often find a pumpkin vine growing out of old compost piles. So, the more compost the better! Pumpkins vines will root where they come into contact with the ground, and this should be encouraged as it produces more pumpkins and stronger plants.

Feed Me!

If you have planted your pumpkins in a nice, rich, compost filled Yummy Yard, there is absolutely no need to feed!

What about the Water?

The other thing that pumpkins love, in addition to compost and space, is a moist, well-drained soil. Soil with a high compost content will retain moisture, as will a nice mulch layer. Now, before you go nuts on the end of the hose, use your moisture sensor! What do you mean you don’t have one? Your pointer finger is the greatest moisture sensor in the world… and most of us have two of those. Stick your chosen finger in the soil, and remove. Is it damp, and is there dirt stuck to your finger? If yes, it doesn’t need a drink. If no, read on! Water in the morning, to avoid water on the foliage as the temperature cools down, and never, ever, ever water pumpkin with greywater!

Are We There Yet?

Pumpkins, depending on the variety, take between 70 – 120 days to mature, which is a bloody, long time, but totally worth the wait! You can tell when a pumpkin is ripe when you give it a knock on the side, and it sounds hollow. The skin should feel hard and the tendril closest to the fruit should be dead. When removing the pumpkin from the vine, be sure to keep about 5cm of stalk on top.

If you don’t plan on chowing down or carving up your pumpkin straight away, I recommend “curing” it by sitting it in the sun for a while (about a week), and then storing it in a cool, dark (but not damp) place. Well-cured pumpkins can last for up to ten months.

Pests and the Rest

A common problem with pumpkins isn’t so much a pest issue, but a pollination problem. For years I grew pumpkins with magic vines, but no real fruit. The problem was that small fruits would form, go yellow, and fall off. I overcame this with hand-pollination! The trick is to pick the boy flowers (the ones without the tell-tale bump at the base), take the petals off, and lightly rub the pollen on the sticky bits of the female flowers.

As for real pests – well, there’s not much, but keep an eye on fuzzy mildews (like Powdery Mildew or Downy Mildew). Have a read of those two factsheets should these little fungal nasties appear!

Hot Tip

Don’t grow pumpkins in the same patch as tomatoes or potatoes, ‘cos they just don’t get along! Also, crop rotation is a big deal, so wait two years after planting other members of the pumpkin family (including cucumbers, melons, squashes and zucchinis) before you whack in your pumpkins. This just helps cut down the risk of disease and bad stuff happening to your pumpkin patch.

Eat me!

Pumpkin Curry

This is the ultimate in kinship. This sauce and pumpkin go together so well that you’ll pass this recipe on through the generations.

Preheat oven and bake the pumpkin while the sauce cooks. Wash and cook some jasmine rice too. Cut up and stir fry a few greens to complement it if you so desire.

Pumpkin Curry Sauce

1 onion
1 tbsp vegetable or peanut oil
1 clove garlic
2 cm knob ginger
½ butternut pumpkin or about 500g other pumpkin
1 can coconut cream or milk
1 tsp garam masala
2 chopped chilies
juice of half lemon or lime
1 star anise
1 tsp brown or palm sugar
1 tsp soy or fish sauce

Preheat oven to 200°C
Prepare rice and place it on to cook. (The absorption method is best)
Peel pumpkin. Cut into small chunks. Place pumpkin on greased baking trays and bake until tender. (Will take approximately as long as the rice and the sauce or 25-30 minutes).
Finely dice onion and chilies.
Crush garlic and grate ginger.
Heat oil in small saucepan over medium heat. Cook onion until soft.
Add garlic, ginger, chilies and garam masala. Stir for 1 minute until fragrant.
Add remaining ingredients and bring to boil. Turn heat to low and simmer gently until rice is cooked and pumpkin tender. However, the sauce will thicken quite a lot, so keep an eye on it.
When sauce is the thickness you desire, or the rest of the meal is ready, turn the sauce off. Allow to sit for a few minutes.
In this time, you could stirfry some greens. A green salad with Asian inspired dressing also goes well with this dish.
Remove star anise from sauce. Taste sauce and season if necessary.
Place pumpkin on top of rice and ladle the curry sauce on top. Serve by itself or alongside your greens.

Even for giant pumpkins, fertilizer should be applied to healthy plants in healthy soil only once every two weeks. The best fertilizer depends on the stage of pumpkin growth. Some sources suggest using more phosphorus, the second number on the fertilizer categorization, on seedlings, and then using a balanced formula once the pumpkin has fruited. Later in the growing season, a fertilizer with more potassium is recommended.
For example, you might apply a 5-10-10 fertilizer to the soil about six to eight inches around pumpkin seedlings. As the pumpkin grows, switch to a 20-20-20, or even manure alone. While the plants are mature and expanding, use a fertilizer with more potassium such as a 10-10-20. A super-potassium fertilizer, a 0-0-60, is available for giant-pumpkin growers. The amount of fertilizer will depend on the size of the garden, not the size of the pumpkin. The amount will also vary based on the type of fertilizer used, with more for phosphates but less for nitrogen-intensive fertilizer. Fertilizer packages will usually have recommendations according to the square-foot size of the garden, or in this case, the pumpkin patch.

How to Grow Giant Pumpkins

Any good sumo wrestler eats an enormous amount of food to put on weight. The same is true with your sumo pumpkin. Feed your pumpkin plant every 2 weeks with a water-soluble plant food, such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food, or for easy feeding use Miracle-Gro® LiquaFeed® Tomato, Fruits & Vegetables Plant Food.

Watering Your Pumpkin

Pumpkins are thirsty, and big pumpkins are even more so, but you can easily over-water. Be sure to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Water whenever the soil feels dry to the touch. With enough moisture and nutrition, giant pumpkins can grow over 30 pounds in a single day.

Helping Pumpkins Take Shape

Your big pumpkin might start to flatten a little, so you want to distribute its weight. You can do that by carefully rolling the fruit about every week or so. Move them gently. Gradually reposition the pumpkin so it grows at a ninety degree angle to the main vine. Pests will want a piece of your pumpkin. Plant companion plants like onion, leeks or dill nearby and combat them naturally.

Harvesting Your Pumpkin

Check to make sure the stem has become woody, then cut it from the main vine with a sharp knife, leaving several inches attached to the pumpkin. Depending on the variety you planted, pumpkins mature between 95-110 days after planting. If you can, try to not to harvest pumpkins until the vine dies.

Pumpkin Growing Tips

Wallace’s Whoppers Growing Tips

Pumpkin Care and Fertilizer Suggestions

Welcome to the exciting world of growing giant pumpkins! Growing giant pumpkins is a family fun event that for some has turned a hobby into an obsession. Some people grow for neighborhood “bragging” rights, others for competition. Depending on what category of grower you fall into, the one thing all growers have in common is we all started at the “beginner” level.

If you have purchased a pack of Wallace’s Whoppers and have never grown a giant pumpkin, I would also suggest you subscribe to my exclusive pumpkin growing tips, weekly updates, and videos starting in the spring of 2018 at the Wallace Organic Wonder YouTube channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrGKtAPO27GCmvv3m7uyQew These videos will feature both beginner and intermediate growing practices.

Below are some suggestions to help you get started on giant pumpkin growing. All product suggestions in bold are available at www.wallacewow.com.

Location and soil test: Giant pumpkins like all day sun and a fertile well-drained soil that is high in organic matter. Competition growers can allocate as much as 1,000 sq. ft. for a single plant! If you are just starting out, have no fear you can grow a single plant in a 300 sq. ft. area and still grow a pumpkin up to 800 pounds or more! First thing you will need to do is to take a soil test from your garden area and send it to your local soil-testing lab. Most tests cost less than $30 and are well worth the money. One of the things you need to do, if you do nothing else, is to take a soil test and adjust per the lab’s recommendations. Pumpkins like a soil pH of 6.5 to 7. I’ve had good results from Western Laboratories for my soil and plant tissue testing. www.westernlaboratories.com. Once you’ve received the results, you can email me your soil test information and I will advise. [email protected]

It is best to start your pumpkin patch the previous fall if possible. At this time you can add compost and organic matter to your soil, adjust your soil pH per the lab’s recommendations and also plant a cover crop of winter rye. This cover crop will “hold” all of your soil’s nutrients in place until it is ready to be tilled under in the spring.

The biggest mistake first time growers make is starting their seeds too early. If you do not plan to place a small greenhouse over your pumpkin plant, there is no need to start your seeds until the first week of May or later. Then place your plants outside after the last expected day of frost for your area. Outside planting instructions are listed on the back of your Wallace’s Whoppers Seed packet. If you plan on starting your seeds indoors, please see our video for seed starting at www.wallacewow.com

Starting Seeds: Lightly file the edges of your seeds with a fine grit sand paper. This helps the seed coat remove easily from the new seedling. Soak seeds for 1 hour in 1 quart of warm water with ¼ teaspoon WOW Seaweed Powder. Mix 6 ounces of WOW Pumpkin Pro Mycorrhizal Inoculant with 1.5 cubic foot of seed starting mix. Add moistened seed starting mix to 5-inch peat pot and place 1 seed per pot – point down – no deeper than 1 inch below the soil line. Place peat pots in seed starting tray, and cover with 2-inch plastic dome. Place tray on top of seedling heat mat and keep in a warm place. Keep soil moist but not wet. Seedling will germinate in 4 to 5 days. After germination, place seedling under grow light for 14 hours a day for several days. After a few days the seedlings will need to be transferred to a 1-gallon pot or planted directly into the garden. Before planting seedlings outside, make sure they are exposed to some natural sunlight for a few hours each day along with keeping them cool at night. This will properly “harden off” your seedlings.

Seed Starting Video

Planting your Wallace Whoppers giant pumpkin plant

Watering your plant and night time protection

The following are some fertilizing suggestions. These are the fertilization products I use when growing for competition. Some fertilizers are very basic in nature and others are “cutting edge.” You do NOT have to go “all-in” on all fertilizer suggestions. I suggest you educate yourself on all products recommended and see if they are right for you and what you are looking for out of your pumpkin patch. Some growers are high tech, and others only apply basic rudimentary gardening skills. Both methods have been found to be very successful. The biggest thing to remember is to have FUN! You will be amazed at just how fast your Wallace’s Whopper pumpkins will grow and the excitement it brings to you.

May: For a pumpkin patch of approximately 500 square feet, add to your soil and till in 10 pounds of WOW Kelp Meal and 2 pounds WOW Humic and Fulvic Acid.

When transplanting out into the patch, work into the soil where your plant will be planted ½ cup Pumpkin Pro, 3 tablespoons WOW Soil and Plant Booster, and 1 tablespoon of powdered Azos.

After seed germination and planting in your patch, water plants weekly with WOW Soluble Seaweed Powder (1 teaspoon per gallon of water) combined with WOW Humic Acid (½ teaspoon per gallon of water), and Triple 12 Liquid Fertilizer (¾ ounce per gallon of water). All can be mixed in a watering can and applied in and around the plant. Any time you use a watering can or other methods to soak the soil, this is called a “soil drench.” Seaweed can also be foliar applied through the season and is very effective. A “foliar” application is misting your plants’ leaves using a mechanical or hand pump sprayer. Humic Acid is more effective when soil drenched. All application rates and instructions are printed on each product label.

Also I am excited to be one of the first in the USA to sell the product Root. Root’s active ingredient Formononetin is a naturally-occurring compound found in plant roots, which stimulates the natural growth of vesicular-arbuscular mycorrhizae, enhancing the growth of plants! Bottom line and translated into understandable terms: Formononetin is a food source for mycorrhizae. Seedlings should be drenched every week at 2 teaspoons per gallon of water. Established plants should be drenched every 2 weeks at 1 teaspoon of Root per gallon of water. I have studied Formononetin for years and am anxious to see the results!

June: Continue feeding plants with WOW Seaweed, Humic Acid, and Triple 12 Liquid Fertilizer. Use 2 tablespoons of Pumpkin Pro and 1 tablespoon of WOW Soil and Plant Booster and place under each leaf rooting point when burying vines. When burying vines, I always place what I need to a small bowl and to that add a few tablespoons of powdered Azos. Research has shown that adding Azos provides an extra biological presence to the soil and this helps mycorrhizal fungi establish and grow. I also will be adding Root to my vine-burying mixture in 2018. Every 2 weeks drench the soil and plants with Azos Blue. Early in June would be the time to consider foliar applying Axiom Harpin Proteins. (2.0 grams per 1 gallon of water will cover 1,000 sq ft.) I applied Harpin Proteins last year to tomato plants and saw significant results compared to the ones without. I will apply Harpin Proteins to a few plants this year and will report on my findings at year-end. There is extensive information on the web as it pertains to the ISR Induced Systemic Resistance plants get from Harpin Proteins. Starting in early June, every 14 days, I will add Companion Biological Fungicide, (2 teaspoons per gallon of water) and Essential (¼ ounce per gallon of water) to my Seaweed and Humic/Fulvic fertilizers. The Companion will help shield your roots and leaves from harmful fungi. Essential contains 20 natural L-amino acids that will aid in plant growth! Starting around the third week of June, apply TKO Phosphite to the plants at ¼ ounce per gallon of water. This will add needed phosphorus and potassium along with the power of phosphite plant protection. Also in June every 10-14 days brew some WOW Wonder Brew Compost Tea. Finished Wonder Brew may be diluted with up to 8 gallons of water per finished gallon of Brew. Drench plants with Brew!

July: Weekly additions of WOW Seaweed and Humic Acid, and Triple 12 Liquid Fertilizer. Continue to bury vines using a mixture of Pumpkin Pro, WOW Soil and Plant Booster, and Powdered Azos. Every 2 weeks drench the plants and soil with Azos Blue and continue weekly with TKO Phosphite applications. Let’s not forget to sit back and have a cold beverage and enjoy all your hard work! Every other week continue with Companion and Essential. Continue drenching plants with WOW Wonder Brew Compost Tea.

August: This is my last soil and plant drench of Azos Blue. I will also continue to bury vines till plants have filled their allocated area with a mixture of Pumpkin Pro, Soil and Plant Booster, and powdered Azos. Weekly applications of WOW Seaweed and Humic Acid, and Triple 12 should continue. At this time depending on tissue test results, I will add 0-0-25 from Growth Products to TKO Phosphite. Every other week continue with Companion and Essential. Every 10 days drench with WOW Wonder Brew compost tea.

September: The first thing you should do is add mouse bait around all of your pumpkins! Do not let a mouse ruin all your hard work. Continue feeding with WOW Seaweed and Humic Acid and Triple 12. Depending on my growth rates and shape of the pumpkin, I will continue to keep my foot on the “throttle” till season’s end. TKO Phosphite and 0-0-25 is applied weekly till the third week of September. If my pumpkin has a very high growth rate or a stem crack, I will ease off on applying fertilizers. The middle of September will be the last of our fertilizer applications, along with Companion and Essential.

At the end of the season, I immediately make notes on my calendar and update what I have done to be better prepared for next season. I urge everyone to enter one of the GPC (Great Pumpkin Commonwealth) weigh-offs. With or without a pumpkin you will make friends that will last a lifetime.

Insect & disease control: Please view our Wallace WOW YouTube channel for Insect and disease control measures.

Here is one last WOW tip if you want to get ahead on next season. Prepare your garden during the month of October by adding compost and plant a cover crop of winter rye and hairy vetch mixed with 3 pounds per 750 sq. ft. of WOW Pumpkin Pro Mycorrhizal Inoculant.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *