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Do you wish you could grow sweet corn but think your yard is to small? Don’t give up, you really can grow corn in a small space. The secret is to use square foot gardening!
When corn is grown in the field it is normally planted 4 to 6 inches apart in rows that are 30 to 36 inches apart. That takes up a lot of room for just a small patch of corn. When you intensify your planting method you can fit a lot of corn in a small space.
- Why would you want to grow your own sweet corn?
- Growing Corn In Square Foot Garden
- When Should You Plant Corn?
- Tips To Make Planting Corn In A Square Foot Garden Easier
- How To Plant Corn In A Small Garden
- Step 1 Mark Your Planting Area
- Step 2 Prepare Your Garden Bed For Planting Corn
- Step 3 Make Your Corn Planting Square Foot Holes
- Step 4 Plant Your Corn Seeds
- Step 5 Cover The Corn Seed
- Step 6 Mulch Your Corn
- When Do You Harvest Sweet Corn?
- HOW TO GROW CORN IN A SMALL GARDEN
- PLANTING CORN
- AMAZING CORN POLLINATION
- Square Foot Gardening Versus Planting In Rows
- A Simple Way To Create A Low-Maintenance Vegetable Garden
- Raised Row Garden Beds – Setting Up From Scratch
Why would you want to grow your own sweet corn?
The taste! Honestly that is the main reason we always grow our own. You just can’t beat the taste of fresh picked sweet corn. See the minute you pick corn it starts to convert it’s sugar into starch. So the longer it sits before cooking the more it loses its sweetness.
The BEST sweet corn is picked 10 minutes or less before cooking. Really, if you haven’t tried corn that fresh before you have to it’s so good.
This is a great place to get organic heirloom corn seed!
Growing Corn In Square Foot Garden
Growing corn in your backyard is so easy to do even if you only have a small space. The key to being successful growing corn this way is to have healthy soil.
When you want to intensify your plantings you need to make sure you have a good quality soil to plant in. Four years ago we were introduced to the Back To Eden garden method.
If you haven’t heard of this before it’s all about using deep mulch in your garden and encourages the use of wood chips over other types of mulch. The wood chips help to suppress weeds, reduce the need to water and as they compost leave you with a beautifully rich soil to plant in.
One of the questions I’m often asked is how do you plant your garden after you’ve covered it with a thick mulch. We’ve been experimenting with different ways and came up with a very easy way to combine square foot gardening with the Back To Eden garden method.
All New Square Foot Gardening II: The Revolutionary Way to Grow More in Less Space
When Should You Plant Corn?
Sweet corn can be planted in your garden between May 15th and June 10th in most areas in a zone 4, 5 or 6 growing zone.
Corn seeds will rot if planted into soil that is to cold for a long period of time. The ideal soil temperature to plant corn in your garden is 18C (65F) but warmer is better.
If you are having an unusually cold spring you can start your corn seeds indoors in seed starting trays and then transplant them out into the garden when the weather warms up.
Tips To Make Planting Corn In A Square Foot Garden Easier
Planting corn isn’t hard to do, but there are some helpful garden tools that will make your job so much easier!
I would strongly suggest making or buying a square foot planting grid. Using one of these will make planting your sweet corn so much faster! Your planting holes will be perfectly spaced and it’s so easy to just move the planting guide over lining up the edges so your garden rows stay nice and straight.
The next helpful tool is a planting dibber. These are tools that make pressing out a planting hole nice and easy! Again you can make your own or buy a nice steel coated one. The benefits a steel coated dibber is that it easily goes into the soil even if the soil isn’t as light and fluffy as you’d like.
That makes it easier to plant in clay soils or after your garden has been rained on a few times.
Esschert Design Dibber/Bulb PlanterZenport GA401 Dibber for Planting Seeds and BulbsSeeding Square The Color-Coded Seed Spacer.
How To Plant Corn In A Small Garden
We plant our sweet corn 4 inches apart this gives us 9 plants per square foot. My hubby made a wooden planting guide to help us keep the spacing just right. This saves us a lot of time, as the holes are made and planted we simply flip the grid over and make more holes. This keeps the spacing nice and even.
Step 1 Mark Your Planting Area
The first step is to mark off where you want to plant your corn. We use our row maker to mark the edges of the planting bed.
Step 2 Prepare Your Garden Bed For Planting Corn
Rake the mulch back off your planting area. Then remove any weeds that have started growing under the mulch. Normally there isn’t many and they are very easy to pull out because the mulch keeps your soil so soft.
Step 3 Make Your Corn Planting Square Foot Holes
Lay your planting guide down and use a dibber to poke a hole into each circle. You want your holes to be 1 inch deep. Yup, that is vice grip pliers you see on the end of our dibber. lol It was a very quick and easy way for us to mark how deep we needed to plant.
Step 4 Plant Your Corn Seeds
Drop 1 corn seed into each hole. Then flip your planting guide over and line it up to start the next section.
Step 5 Cover The Corn Seed
Cover the corn seed with soil. I do this as we work so while my hubby is making the planting holes for the next section I’m covering the one I just planted with soil.
Step 6 Mulch Your Corn
Rake the mulch back over top of your planting area and water it well.
Corn is wind pollinated so you should plant at least a 4 foot x 4 foot area to ensure good pollination.
When Do You Harvest Sweet Corn?
I know, fresh sweet corn tastes so good you just can’t wait to start picking it for your corn roast.
But do you know when corn is ready to harvest?
It’s actually really easy to tell when sweet corn is ready to pick. Start by looking at the silk on the top of the corn cob. It should be brown and dry to the touch.
Next the cobs will start to sag away from the corn stock a bit. Press your finger nail into one of the corn kernels. If it’s ready it will start dripping a milky color.
To harvest your sweet corn, hold a cob and pull it down from the corn stock, then twist it and it will come right off. Remember to eat it as soon after picking as possible for the best taste!
Would you like to see how quick and easy this really is? Here is a video showing how we planted our corn this year.
More Helpful Resources:
- How to Grow Peas
- How to Grow Basil
- How to Grow Strawberries
- 32 Ways to Make Money on a Small Homestead
Kim Mills is a homeschooling mom of 6 and lives on an urban homestead in Ontario, Canada. Blogging at Homestead Acres she enjoys sharing tips to help you save money, grow and preserve your own food.
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You can grow corn in a small garden.
Yes, you read that right!
The image of long rows of corn planted in corn fields of the Midwestern states is about to get updated, small-garden style!
Do you have a 5-foot by 10-foot area in your yard?
You can grow corn in this small space.
The Home & Family show vegetable garden is located in a busy urban area where I’m growing “Silver Queen” corn by Bonnie Plants in a 5-foot by 10-foot area.
HOW TO GROW CORN IN A SMALL GARDEN
Plant at the right time
The season to plant corn is in the springtime when the soil reaches temperatures of 60 degrees and above and the danger of frost is over.
Depending on where you live, you can plant as early as March or as late as June.
Planting corn seeds on a sunny day followed by a cold front or stormy weather can lead to rotting seeds.
There are hundreds of corn varieties that will be perfect for your short growing season.
Wait for consistently warm weather and your corn plants will reward you with enthusiastic growth!
Select the right location
Location, location, location is the motto for buying real estate and for planting corn!
The perfect site for planting corn should meet these standards:
- Full day sun- 8 hours is ideal
- Area open to breezes (which aids pollination), but protected from strong winds
- Well draining soil with plenty of access to water
Select seeds or corn plants
There’s an infinite variety of sweet corn available to us these days.
Buy corn seeds if you want to explore interesting varieties like “Rainbow Sweet Inca” or the classic “Stowell’s Evergreen” corn available at Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds.
You can even find specialty corn seed for popcorn, broom corn and ornamental corn for decorating and crafting.
Packets are labeled as Early, Mid, or Late season corn so you can stagger your harvest and grow corn through the summer.
Seed classification includes Standard, Sugary Extender, Super Sweet, Synergistic and Augmented Super Sweet, which define the sugar and starch content of a specific plant.
Whatever you do, don’t mix corn varieties in your small garden bed as they can cross-pollinate and re-flavor your corn!
You’ll end up with a bizarre variety of corn.
I planted corn plants by Bonnie instead of seeds.
We do have a long growing season in Southern California but our production for the Home & Family show breaks during August and September and I need a head start with my crop.
If you need a head start, purchase plants.
There are quite a few varieties available and the ones you find at your local garden center have been selected to thrive in your area.
Best of all, these plants have already successfully germinated, sprouted and are in growth mode.
Does this sound exciting to you?
Buy corn plants!
Prepare your soil
Now that you have your seed or corn plants on hand, it’s time to get your garden bed ready and in prime condition for your corn crops’ special needs.
Before setting out plants, amend your soil with compost and a balanced, organic, time-released fertilizer rich in nitrogen.
I added 10 pounds of Gardner & Bloome compost to my 50 square feet of gardening space and mixed it into the top 6 inches of soil.
I like Jobe’s Blood Meal, an organic source of nitrogen.
If you use a conventional (non-organic fertilizer), you will need a pound of 16-16-8 fertilizer for every 50 square feet of gardening space, mixed into the top 6 inches of soil.
You can also use a 10-10-10 formula.
A steady nitrogen source is vital to corn growth.
Nitrogen is taken up by the corn plant at the root level and goes through a process that converts it to amino acids that help the plant produce more sugar.
If nitrogen is not provided, the plant will tap into its own source of nitrogen, found in the leaves, and “cannibalize” itself, leading to yellowing of lower leaves on the stalk.
This is a sign of nitrogen deficiency called firing.
You don’t want to see firing, so supply nitrogen at planting time, when your corn grows to 6 inches, and then again when the tassels emerge on top of the plant.
These are critical times for nitrogen uptake.
More information about fertilizing corn here.
Space Your Corn Plants According to Square Foot Method
Square Foot Gardening is a planting technique originated by Mel Bartholomew, an engineer who wanted to maximize planting in small spaces.
According to his rule, you can grow a singe large crop such as a corn plant, tomato or squash in a one-square-foot area.
Square Foot Gardening is incredibly successful.
Here’s how I applied the formula for my corn plant:
I planted 4 rows of corn, spaced 12 inches apart and within each row, I spaced plants 8 inches apart horizontally.
This layout creates a “block” of corn instead of a long row of corn which is difficult to pollinate.
When mature, the corn stalks will be anywhere from 7 feet to 14 feet tall and stand shoulder to shoulder.
Water your corn plant…a lot!
Corn requires one inch of water per week and more during a heat wave.
Drip irrigation or a soaker hose can be a time saver, but it’s fun to water your corn by hand and observe the amazing growth it has every day.
Two thorough watering sessions per week is usually sufficient.
Don’t be lazy.
You want JUICY corn kernels, right?
AMAZING CORN POLLINATION
I’m in awe of how God designed corn to reproduce by supplying each plant with both female and male sexual traits.
The corn tassels, found high at the apex of the corn, carries within its flower pods the pollen which fertilizes the corn cob.
Ears of corn (the female part of plant) grow from nodes found along the corn stalk, and emerge at the same time the tassels form.
Silky filaments or strands (the corn silk) run the length of an ear of corn.
These strings are directly attached to individuals kernels of corn, protected on the cob by the husks.
In order to pollinate the ear of corn, pollen must fall from the tassels above to the corn silk strands below and fertilize EACH strand.
EACH STRAND represents ONE kernel of corn!
And you thought those corn strands were an annoying nuisance!
Have you ever husked a corn and found missing kernels?
The corn silk attached to that specific kernel was not pollinated!
That’s a heck of a lot of detail work.
Each corn plant can produce 1- 3 cobs of corn and then it dies back.
This is why it’s important to plant corn every 2 weeks if you want to extend your harvest through the summer.
Most people can get three cycles of corn plants if they have a long growing season.
By the way, corn silk has been used for hundreds of years medicinally as a diuretic tea and topically to help heal wounds.
The corn silk is supremely nutritious, housing a large supply of potassium.
Aw-MAIZE-ing plant, don’t you think?
Do you have a new-found appreciation for corn silk?
Shirley Bovshow, the Foodie Gardener and edible garden designer on the set of Home & Family with Phil Keoghan, host of “Amazing Race,” Tanya Memme, Cristina Ferrare and Mark Steienes.
Do you have any questions for the Foodie Gardener?
I’m here for you.
Let’s grow food with style!
Square Foot Gardening Versus Planting In Rows
Row gardening is a style of growing vegetables that people have been using for hundreds of years. It is literally a tried and true traditional method of planting crops and comes with the stamp of approval of generations of successful gardeners. Rows are easier to construct, make reaching all plants a breeze, and can even make watering easier and more efficient – but that doesn’t mean it can’t be improved upon.
Today, gardeners don’t usually have access to a large garden plot; in fact, many folks make do with a tiny area off a condo patio or even high atop an apartment building. What makes these smaller spaces functional and fruitful? Square foot gardening. Space issues aren’t the only reasons to plant by the foot, however. There are numerous square foot gardening benefits too, and here we will discuss both sides, weighing the pros of row gardening against the square foot gardening method.
Pros of Square Foot Gardening
Amy’s viewpoint: First off, a square foot garden is simply a raised box or bed that is divided into squares. The beds can be 2 feet by 2 feet or 4 x 12, but the most common is a bed that is 4 feet by 4 feet. This allows plants to be situated more closely together. The idea of dividing the planting area into squares makes it more efficient than row planting. It also takes much less room, a boon to those with limited garden space.
Accessibility. Another advantage to square foot gardening is its accessibility. Raised beds allow those with difficulty bending to access the garden. The smaller footprint also makes it easier to maneuver around and harvest and is less daunting to the novice gardener. With square foot gardening, the soil doesn’t compact since you never walk inside the squares and is useful for those with less than ideal soil. It also drains better. Because you are planting in blocks and plants are situated more closely together than those in rows, the higher density planting allows for higher yields. It is also easier to water a blocked planting than a row garden. Fertilizing is also easier and more efficient.
Easy maintenance. Another benefit of densely planted square foot gardens is less weeding! The entirety of the garden is dedicated to crops, leaving little room for weeds. Each area of the square foot garden is destined for a specific use. Build trellises at the north end of the bed for vining plants or those you wish to grow vertically, like summer squash or cucumbers, and you can maximize the space even more. Additionally, it is easier to manage and control pests in a square foot garden. Controlling pests and managing irrigation are key ingredients to combating diseases, thus mitigating the need for extraneous insecticides, herbicides and other chemicals.
They look good anywhere. Its decorative aspect is yet another benefit to consider. Planting boxes can be bought or built out of many materials and make lovely additions to the landscape. Plus, they don’t require digging up a large garden space and yielding the landscape design to a vegetable garden. They can be placed in areas of full sun that a row garden isn’t accessible to. A square foot garden can even be planted on a driveway, parking strip or the aforementioned high rise apartment building.
Continuous planting. Lastly, raised gardens warm faster, allowing for earlier planting and harvest. The beauty of planting a square foot bed is that you can have a continuous succession of plantings going from the earliest spring through to the latest cool weather crops in the late fall/early winter. As one square has finished producing, plant another crop so there is a continuous profusion of produce to select from, lengthening the growing season for as long as possible.
Of course, it goes without saying that a few downsides of square foot planting exist. It is an investment. The construction price or cost to purchase the boxes combined with buying soil and seeds can seem extravagant, but consider this as an initial cost that you will continue to use for years. Unfortunately, a few years are probably all you have until a box needs to be replaced or repaired and the soil needs to be replenished (ideally annually). Also, not all types of vegetables work well in the confined space of square foot boxes. Big crops such as corn, watermelon and potatoes don’t always work well in this smaller space.
Reasons to Plant by the Foot
Mary Ellen’s viewpoint: Sure, there is no arguing that a square foot garden does have its share of benefits to the home gardener with little space. That said, there are just as many reasons to plant in rows.
Easily reach everything. With a row of plants, you can easily reach each and every one of them. While you can also reach everything in a square plan, you may struggle to get to those in the middle without crushing the outer edge plants. Being able to reach all your plants means you can keep the garden weeded and harvest more easily too.
Grow more, harvest more. If you have the space for it, row gardening allows you to plant more and harvest more vegetables. Squares are limited because if they are too big, you can’t reach the plants in the middle. You are also limited in the amount of plants/veggies you can grow in the given space.
Get good weed cover with wide rows. Row gardening doesn’t have to be narrow. Wide rows are especially good for leafy vegetables, like chard and lettuce. These plants grow quickly to produce a covering that blocks the growth of weeds.
Flood or drip irrigate. With row gardening, you can make watering easier by installing a hose along each row for drip irrigation, or by using flood irrigation if that is an option in your garden. Either way, you’ll water more quickly and thoroughly than is possible with square gardening.
Not all vegetables fit in a box. Gardening in rows gives you more space to grow larger vegetables that won’t fit neatly in a square or box. As previously mentioned, this includes corn and watermelon, two popular garden crops.
How Do Benefits of Planting in Rows Compare to Square Foot Gardening?
If you have limited space, square gardening may be right for you. However, given the freedom of space, most gardeners choose rows. Wide rows and narrow rows alike allow for easier and more efficient growing and harvesting of vegetables. Rows in the garden look nice too, and with so many reasons to go for rows, why wouldn’t you?
Then again, the initial investment of a square foot garden is a worthwhile cost for easier access and harvest of a more environmentally friendly garden. One that works for today’s world where space is at a premium and access to foods we trust are grown as cleanly as possible. With a square foot garden, everyone can have their little piece of heaven, one square foot at a time.
There are many types of vegetable gardens out there from the traditional rows – one plant wide row with walkways in between – to raised beds (and wide beds) or more natural, loose organic gardens. I try to stay away from rows because they are much less space efficient than the other two types. With rows you end up devoting a lot more land to walkways, which isn’t a good use of space if you’re trying to maximize your harvest. They do make harvesting easier and are better suited for using equipment which is why some people still use them.
At our old house we used raised beds which have many benefits. You can lay hardware cloth (metal mesh) and weedblock under them to keep out gophers, voles and weeds. They are the perfect solution for problem soils whether you’re dealing with heavy clay or lead contamination (use filter fabric underneath to keep soil from migrating into the bed). They can be used on slopes as terraced beds (just make sure you have proper supports to hold the weight of the soil).
Organic, loose garden beds are a personal preference for many people. Lines are not straight and the plants are not organized into rows. I do really enjoy the looks of these types of gardens because they are productive while also being very aesthetically pleasing. There is usually more mixing of plants since rows are being utilized which can be very beneficial in regards to companion planting and confusing pests.
We currently use wide beds. Raised beds are cost prohibitive at our scale and rows don’t produce enough. A 4′ wide bed can produce 4x more produce than a row of the same square footage. Plants are closer together (no walkways in between) which means less weeding when the plants get larger and shade the soil.
Of course what you choose to go with is totally up to you because it really is personal preference. As much as I love the organic flowing look I’m just too OCD to try it.
Garden season is around the corner – so how about making this the year to create an incredible low-maintenance vegetable garden!
You can actually do it quite easily. And, believe it or not, it can be weed-free.
All without having to spend hours upon hours in the garden.
There is nothing quite like home-grown vegetables.
Even better, you don’t need a rototiller or costly equipment to make it all happen.
Sound impossible? It’s not!
A Simple Way To Create A Low-Maintenance Vegetable Garden
If you have always wanted to garden, but think you can’t because you don’t own a rototiller, have great soil, or the time to spend endless hours caring for a garden, its time to try Raised Row Gardening.
The Raised Row Method puts gardening all together. And does so in one simplistic, easy to follow, entirely organic approach.
We have been “Growing Simple” with our Raised Row Garden for over 8 years.
And as easy-to-maintain and productive as it was in year one, it has only continued to get better every year.
Say goodbye to a rototiller for good. And to weeds too!
A Raised Row Garden is all about simplicity. It allows you to maximize yields. All while minimizing the daily and yearly work chores.
In addition, the unique method allows you to keep your garden neat, tidy, and manageable. All in just minutes a day.
Best of all, it is a no-till garden method. That means there is never a need to till and re-till your soil. See : Why You Don’t Need A Rototiller For A Great Garden
It has allowed us to grow nearly 75% of our food every year. And judging by the thousands of comments and emails we get from others now gardening the Raised Row way – it is doing the same for them!
We love seeing how it has worked for others…
This will be our second Spring of raised row gardening, and the results the first year were spectacular! …at 71 y.o. it’s extremely important to me that this method is something I can do. My sister/garden partner is a few years younger but she appreciates the approach as well. – Diana
I did raised row gardening in my front yard this year. The tomatoes were twice the size of the ones I planted in the back yard, and the yields are great! In a few weeks I will add several more rows. I am a believer!!! – Patricia
Here is a look at how a Raised Row Garden works. And, of course, how to set up your own this year!
How A Raised Row Garden Works
Raised rows utilize the same concept as raised beds. However, this is no hassle or expense with building and working within walls.
Our raised row garden growing strong last summer.
Instead of using rock, wood or metal to create “sides”, the soil is simply tapered down on the edges.
This saves time and money when creating. But moreover, it is easier to work in and around.
Soil in raised beds can often be difficult to work, especially at the edges.
Many times, the sides of raised beds get in the way of common garden tools. But with Raised Rows, that simply is never a problem.
Raised row garden beds are initially created using a combination of organic materials and top soil.
Raised row beds are easy to maintain and work around.
They can be created in an existing garden, or right on top of an existing grassy area. Both with ease.
Eliminating 75% Of Traditional Garden Work From The Start
For starters, the growing space in a raised row garden is composed of 6″ high x 18″ wide rows. As for the length, it can be whatever works best for the gardener.
The growing space is the only space where a raised row gardener will ever concentrate their time. As a rule, it is the only place the growing “action” will happen.
In between each growing row, 24 inches of space is left for walking and garden maintenance. These are aptly called the walking rows.
In a “regular” garden, walking space requires a lot of weeding and / or tilling maintenance. But with raised rows, that work load is eliminated by using a heavy application of mulch.
Keeping soil covered is a huge key in eliminating weeds!
With that one simple adjustment, work and maintenance is reduced drastically.
There is never a need to work the soil in between crops. Or weed it.
Instead, all of your efforts can go only to the growing rows. It is also conserves greatly on resources such as water and compost.
And the advantages only grow better from there.
Raised Row Garden Beds – Setting Up From Scratch
Here is a quick look at the basics of setting up a simple, easy-care vegetable garden – the Raised Row way.
The Raised Row Gardening Book is filled with everything you need to create a productive, low-maintenance vegetable garden.
For those wanting even in-depth info, be sure to check out our top-selling book above: Raised Row Gardening.
It is loaded with full color photos and illustrations that take you through every facet of the method! In addition, it also include full planting and companion guides.
So let’s get back to setting up that perfect garden!
Creating Your Raised Rows From Scratch
Start by marking out the location of your growing rows.
As noted earlier, the ideal raised row gardening growing row is 18″ wide. Then, be sure to leave about 24″ left between rows as a walking path.
Again, the length of each row is up to the gardener. We use 20′ long rows in ours, and it has worked very well.
Mulch keeps weeds at bay and insulates plants. In addition, it provides nutrients back into the soil
Once everything is marked, it is time to build the garden.
Creating The Raised Rows
Start by laying down a thick 4 to 6″ layer of organic material in the middle of each growing row. Spread it out about 10″ wide, leaving 4 inches on each side bare.
For the organic material, shredded leaves, straw and compost are great choices. Even better, use a combination of all 3 as your base.
Next, if you are creating from an existing garden, use the soil in the garden to rake or pile up over the top of each row.
Do this to create a growing row with about 6″ of height in the middle,. Your growing rows should then taper down to the edges of each side of the walking rows.
The heavier soil placed on top of the organic material will act to compress down the organic material. But the finished height in the middle should be about 6″.
You can use existing soil, or purchased soil to make your initial rows. But you only need to do it once.
It is important to not have a steep slope. Just a gentle taper to the walking row edges.
If creating from scratch on top of a grassy area, you can purchase a topsoil or garden soil blend to create the raised rows. This only needs to be done once.
We constructed our first raised row garden beds on top of a freshly mowed grass field. And we have never looked back.
Cover The Walking Rows
Next, it is time to cover those walking rows!
Start by putting down a thick layer of straw, leaves, wood bark or wood chips. We use bark chips in our garden. And it works extremely well.
As an added benefit, it lasts for years as opposed to a single season.
Mulching growing rows and walking rows keeps weeding to a minimum
If you built your beds on top of a grassy area that was not tilled, use landscape fabric, newspapers, or even plastic in the walking rows first. Then place on the leaves, straw or chips.
This will give an extra layer to help kill off the grass for the first year. If you used a non-biodegradable material (plastic, fabric, etc.), you can remove it for good at the end of year one.
Long Term Gardening And Maintenance
All planting is done within the growing rows. Straw or shredded leaves are used as mulch in-season around plants to keep weeds out.
The raised rows allow plants to grow deep, healthy roots. The mulch keeps weeds out and moisture in.
At the end of the season, when plants are removed, a cover crop is planted in its place. This covers and protects the growing rows for winter. It also helps rebuild the soil for the next growing season. (See Our Article – When and How to Plant Cover Crops)
By using soil-replenishing cover crops, there is never a need to till your garden.
The following spring, the cover crop is mowed off a few times and eventually dies off.
Plants and seeds for the garden are then planted directly through it. No tilling. No weeds. And little work!
So what is holding you back this year? Isn’t it time you get started planning and creating your own low-maintenance vegetable garden?
Happy Simple Gardening! – Jim & Mary. If you would like to receive our DIY, Gardening and Recipe articles each week, you can sign up to follow the blog via email in the right hand column above, “Like” us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter. This article may contain affiliate links.
How To Create A Simple, Weed-Free, Low-Maintenance Vegetable Garden Tagged on: gardening basics low maintenance gardening raised row gardening simple gardening weed free garden