Spider webs in grass

How to ID Spiders by Their Webs

When Halloween rolls around, we’re eager to decorate our homes with spider webs. But the rest of the year? Webs – whether they’re fake or real — aren’t so welcome.

Everyone knows spiders can help keep pests under control, but to some people, spiders and their webs are the pests. To them, allowing webs to linger is the sign of a messy house. Most will clear spider webs and cobwebs out of unused areas and sweep them from corners.

Aside from the cleanliness issue, spiders can be dangerous. North America’s “Big Three” spiders – black widow, brown recluse and hobo spiders – have venomous bites that can be harmful to people and pets. Other spider bites can result in rashes and other skin irritation.

With those dangerous spiders in mind, it’s important to take a moment before brushing a web away to inspect it. Certain web types, for example, can indicate the possible presence of a dangerous spider. With such information, you will also know to set out spider traps or to treat an area with spider killing spray, both of which can help you get rid of spiders – whether they are dangerous or not.

Some spiders look a lot like other, more dangerous spiders. This orb weaver spider, for example, has a fiddle-shaped marking that some people may mistake for a hobo spider. However, hobo spiders don’t spin these types of webs!

SPIDER WEB LOCATION

The first thing to consider about a spider web is where it’s located. Spider species use their webs to hunt in different ways, so location is key to capturing a meal. In fact, some spiders don’t even use webs to hunt – their webs are used to create shelter or to protect delicate eggs.

When observing a spider web, take note of where the web is placed, because that can help you with its ID later on:

  • Hidden Webs – Some spiders use their webs as a shelter and hide them in out-of-the-way areas for use when they need to rest.
  • Open Webs – Webs that are out in the open usually have the classic spider web design most people are familiar with. These webs are used to capture prey that accidentally flies or hops onto its surface. Some spiders are smart enough to place these open webs in high-traffic areas – such as near a nighttime light or in a window that’s illuminated.
  • Vertical Webs – Most spiders spin a web that is suspended vertically. This increases the chance of catching flying insects.
  • Horizontal Webs– Another option for some spider species is to build a web that stretches out horizontally like a carpet. These webs are meant to capture insects as they land or fall off of another object, such as a plant the insects were feeding on.

SPIDER WEB SHAPE & STYLE

Along with placement, there is another characteristic that can help you identify a spider by its web – the web’s overall shape. In general, there are five main types of bait-style webs:

  • Spiral Orb Webs – Featuring the classic spider web design, spiral orb webs are usually constructed by spiders in the Araneidae family. These mini-masterpieces are actually crafted with two spirals – the first is a non-sticky “guide” spiral, the second is one with adhesive. As the adhesive spiral is set into place, the spider removes the guide spiral. Other spider families that spin these webs are the Tetragnathidae and Uloboridae groups.
  • Tangle Webs – Also called cobwebs, these webs look like haphazard constructions, but they still do the job! Most cobwebs are created by the Theridiidae family of spiders. Black widows are tangle web weavers.
  • Funnel Webs – Look for these webs nestled between rocks, in dense plant cover and other places that provide shelter for their maker. The non-sticky funnel-shaped webs are essentially used as burrows where the spiders lay in wait to pounce on prey. The funnel web spiders usually come from the Agelenidae, Dipluridae and Hexathelidae families of arachnids. The hobo spider is a funnel web-weaving spider.
  • Tubular Webs– These webs, which are very similar to funnel webs, run along the bases of trees or on the ground. Tubular webs are used by the spider to hide until prey triggers a silken line radiating from it. These tube-dwelling spiders mostly come from the family Segestriidae and are found around the world.
  • Sheet Webs– Comprised of horizontally spun silk, these webs are constructed with individual strands or woven into a thick mat, usually by very small spiders. Most sheet web weavers are from the Linyphiidae family of spiders, which has a worldwide distribution. These spiders are sometimes called money spiders because their appearance is said to bring good luck.

ID SPIDERS BY THEIR WEBS

Now that you have a quick rundown of spider web characteristics, it’s time to gather all the data for your identification effort. To do so, note these web characteristics:

  • Spiderweb location – Is the spider web hidden away or out in the open? Does it hang horizontally or vertically?
  • Web shape – Study the shape of the spider web and determine if it’s the classic spiral, a cobweb, a funnel, a tube or a sheet. Web shape is a key indicator of the type of spider and can help you narrow it down by family.
  • Observe the spider itself – After you get past all the legs, spiders have a wildly varied appearance. Take note of its size, colors, whether it is thin or bulky, how fast it moves and if it has hair, spines or is bald. If you can, take a picture of it or trap it under a glass to get a better look.
  • Your location– Not every spider lives in every area of the world. When looking up spiders in an identification guide or website, remember that, for the most part, you should only be looking up spiders with home ranges near your present location.

With these characteristics in mind, use a spider identification guide to help you determine the species. You could also consult a local exterminator or an arachnologist for further assistance.

Bear in mind though that spiders, as well as insects, can be very hard to identify in the wild. You may only be able to determine its general family or genus rather than identifying the exact species.

SAMPLE SPIDER WEBS

Of course, there are some spiders that have distinct web styles. For others, including the “Big Three,” it’s important to know what to look out for. With that in mind, we put together a few snapshots of some important and/or interesting spider webs worth knowing about. A large black-and-yellow arachnid, the yellow garden spider (Agriope aurantia, shown above) spins a web in open areas and creates the familiar spider web pattern, but adds its own twist to the classic design. A large black and yellow spider, you’ll recognize its web by a unique zig-zag pattern found inside it. The purpose of this added touch is disputed – some say it warns birds to avoid flying into the web, while others say it hides the spider from insects. These spiders are not aggressive and rarely bite. The black widow spider (Latrodectus mactans, shown above) weaves a tangled web to catch its prey, and once ensnared, the spider wraps it and bites it to inject its venom. After the venom takes effect, the spider carries its meal to a concealed area for consumption, so you may not see the black widow immediately. The black widow’s silk is said to be exceptionally strong, a characteristic you may note when trying to brush it away with a broom. Black widow bites from mature females pose a serious threat to people, though deaths from their bites are exceptionally rare. Spinning a horizontal web, the venusta orchard spider (Leucauge venusta, shown above) is a long-legged arachnid with vibrant colors. It has green legs and a back that’s dappled with whites, yellows, and blacks. Their webs hang in shrubs and trees and feature a widely-spaced spiral band. The spider will bite its prey and wrap it in silk. Mostly found in the western U.S. and Canada, the web of the hobo spider (Eratigena agrestis, shown above) is a funnel type and rarely found in human habitations. Instead, they prefer to set up their webs in fields. Generally not considered aggressive, it may become so if its eggs appear to be threatened. Scientists dispute just how toxic their venom is, so, just to be safe, steer clear of these spiders and their webs. Spiny-backed orb-weaver spiders (Gasteracantha cancriformis, shown above) can be found throughout the U.S., and they create spiral orb-style webs. Their most striking features are the crab-like spines protruding from its sides and their unique coloration patterns. Their bites are generally harmless to people. There are many kinds of grass spiders (Agelenopsis spp, shown above) and they weave a funnel web in bushes and grass. This web isn’t sticky, but that doesn’t matter to these fast-moving arachnids. As soon as they sense a vibration on their web, they scramble out of their funnel to make a kill. Their venom paralyzes insects and other arthropods but isn’t known to harm humans.

FIGHTING SPIDERS ON YOUR OWN

If you have a spider problem in and around your home, know that TERRO® has many DIY solutions for getting rid of spiders. We mentioned two options above – Spider & Insect Traps and Spider Killer Spray – but there are many more effective spider treatments available from TERRO®.

Once you have your spider problem under control, leave us a comment below to tell us about the experience or visit TERRO® on Facebook and post your pictures there. For exclusive updates on pest control products, as well as helpful information and advice, subscribe to the eNewsletter from TERRO®.

Types of Spider Webs and What They Mean

Spider webs are intricate marvels of engineering, beautiful and strong. And if you walk into one, you instantly become a karate master. In this moment, you really only want to know two things: “IS IT ON ME?!” and “WHAT KIND OF SPIDER WAS THAT?!”

Unless you see the spider, which is unlikely, you won’t be able to tell exactly who spun that web. However, if you got a look at the shape or design of the web before you destroyed it with your karate chops, you might be able to discern what family group it belonged to.

Contrary to Halloween decorations and other cartoon spider stereotypes, not all webs are round and used to catch prey. Some webs, such as those of the brown recluse, are small and used as a sort of nursery to house and protect eggs or young. Here are some of the different types of spiders according to the types of webs they weave.

ORB-WEAVER SPIDERS

(Araneidae) These sticky webs are the most familiar looking. They have spokes like a wheel, with a spiral design. Like most spiders, orb weavers are primarily found outdoors. Some orb-weavers’ webs include a structure that resembles a ladder, called a “stabilimentum,” but its use is still up for debate. No one really knows except the spiders, and they’re not talking.

TRIANGLE SPIDERS

(Uloboridae) If your first guess here was “a spider web shaped like a triangle,” you’re on the right track. If you think of the Araneid’s web as a pizza, the Uloborid’s web looks like a single slice; however, triangle spider webs are flat and built horizontally. These webs aren’t sticky; they’re fuzzy. Triangle spiders don’t dispense venom, so their webs are covered with tiny fibers that the spider uses to smother its prey.

FUNNEL WEB SPIDERS

(Agelenidae) Funnel web spiders use their webs as both a trap and a hideout, complete with a front entrance for prey and a back door in case the spider needs to make a quick exit. The web is large and flat, with a funnel at one end. The hobo spider is a member of the Agelenidae family.

COBWEB SPIDERS

(Theriidae) These guys are the pests who spin those super-sticky, messy webs in corners and along the tops of walls, especially in dark basements, garages and other storage areas. They are also known as “house spiders” and “comb-footed spiders.” The black widow spider belongs to this family.

MESH WEB SPIDERS

(Dictynidae) Think of mesh web spiders as the outdoor version of the cobweb spider. Their webs are a little more organized and less messy than cobwebs, and these spiders build them under leaves, in fields and vegetation and under rocks.

SHEET WEB SPIDERS

(Linyphiidae) The spiders in this family trap their prey in webs made of dense layers of silk. Webs may be flat, bowl-shaped or dome-shaped.

Unfortunately, webs aren’t always reliable identification tools. While the presence of webs does indicate that spiders are hanging around your home, it doesn’t necessarily mean that you’re spider-free if you don’t see webs. Many kinds of spiders, including brown recluse, wolf spiders and jumping spiders, are hunters and don’t use webs to catch prey.

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Dollar Spot

What causes Dollar Spot?

Dollar Spot is a turf disease effecting many different turf varieties. As its name suggests, the appearance of this disease is usually identifiable as dollar sized spots of discoloured grass appearing within your lawn. Up close, the discoloured leaves will have straw coloured lesions with red/brown edges to them. If left to spread the spots will get larger and form bigger patches of affected grass.

Another identifying feature of Dollar Spot is the web like fine threads that form through the leaves of your lawn on colder mornings. These webs will disappear as the day warms up, but these threads are called mycelium threads and are a product of the fungal pathogen that causes Dollar Spot known as Sclerotinia Homoeocarpa.

What causes Dollar Spot?

Dollar Spot occurs when there is additional moisture present on warmer days and the cool nights of spring and autumn. Excessive amounts of thatch build up, poor drainage and watering your lawn too often are common factors that can result in the spots appearing. Dollar Spot is much more common in turf under intensely managed conditions, so is commonly experienced on golf courses.

  • High humidity
  • Cool nights with heavy dew
  • Low nitrogen levels
  • Dry soil

Treatment

So often with fungal diseases the best remedy is simply good lawn care practices.

  • Regularly fertilising your lawn throughout the year will prevent nitrogen deficiency.
  • Regular mowing will help to reduce thatch build up, which can create an ideal humid environment for the disease to grow.
  • When watering your lawn, be sure to do so in the mornings and afternoons only and only water your lawn when it really needs it. A long deep soaking will be of much better benefit than many short watering’s.

We generally do not recommend treating Dollar Spot with fungicides unless the issue continues to persist after implementing the treatment options above. By treating the cause of the problem, you should be able to get Dollar Spot under control without the use of a fungicide. Some fungicide options you might want to consider however, are Bumper 625 and Chief Aquaflo.

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for Dollar Spot

Infection by dollar spot (Sclerotinia homeocarp) appears as tan or straw-colored spots ranging in size from a quarter to that of a silver dollar sunken in the turf. Occasionally, small cottony strings of the fungus can be seen growing from the diseased leaf blades.

Dollar spot occurs throughout the growing period, and is most active during moist, warm days and cool nights. As the disease progresses, individual spots may join to destroy large patches of lawn. It occurs widely on golf greens, but may also be a severe problem on lawns growing under dry soil conditions.

Turf damage is usually more severe if there is a deficiency of nitrogen. Disease fungi are spread from one area to another by water, wind, mowers, other equipment or shoes.

Treatment

The following organic fungicides are recommended:

  • Bonide® Liquid Copper is a natural formulation used to protect everything from turf to vegetables, to flowers and fruits. Mix 1.5 to 6 oz with 2.5 gallons of water and apply to 1,000 sq. ft. For best results, start 2 weeks before problems normally occur. Repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals for as long as needed.
  • Physan 20 works on a variety of disease outbreaks affecting lawns, turf and grass. Add 1 Tbsp per gallon of water and spray over problem areas, repeat as needed. One pint treats 6,400 square feet.

Practices that promote a healthy lawn will help to reduce the occurrence of this fungal disease. For example:

  1. Cut grass at the recommended maximum height.
  2. Try not to remove more than 1/3 of the leaf surface in any one mowing, and if possible, wash the mower between cuttings with a 10% bleach solution.
  3. Remove excess thatch and aerate compacted soils.
  4. Improve drainage by top-dressing with organic matter such as organic compost or well-aged animal manure.
  5. Keep lawns well watered, but avoid irrigating in the late afternoon or evening — do NOT over water.
  6. Apply a slow-release organic fertilizer high in nitrogen; applying liquid seaweed and chelated iron is also helpful.
  7. Do NOT over fertilize, since this can result in an increase of other turf grass diseases such as brown patch.
  8. Over seed in the fall with resistant turf cultivars.

Spider Webs On Grass – Dealing With Dollar Spot Fungus On Lawns

Spider webs on grass that is damp with morning dew may be a symptom of a bigger problem called dollar spot fungus. The branching mycelium of dollar spot fungus looks like spider webs or cobwebs on morning grass, but unlike spider webs, dollar spot mycelium disappears when the dew dries. Let’s learn more about these webs on lawn grass.

Dollar Spot Fungus on Lawns

The fungus gets its name from the brown spots it causes in the lawn. They begin about the size of a silver dollar, but you may not notice them until they grow and spread into large, irregularly shaped areas. The spots resemble those caused by drought, but more water only makes the problem worse.

The organisms that cause dollar spot fungus on lawns (Lanzia and Moellerodiscus spp.) is always present, but they only take hold and begin to grow when the lawn is under stress. Inadequate nitrogen is a primary cause, but drought, overwatering, improper mowing height, heavy thatch and poor aeration can all contribute to the disease. In the presence of stress, warm days and cool nights encourage rapid fungal growth.

Good lawn maintenance is the best way to fight dollar spot fungus. Fertilize regularly using the amount recommended on the fertilizer label. Water weekly in the absence of rain. Apply the water early in the day so that the grass has time to dry before nightfall. Remove excess thatch to allow water and fertilizer to get to the roots.

Fungicides can help treat dollar spot fungus, but they are only recommended when good lawn maintenance fails to get it under control. Fungicides are toxic chemicals that you should use with caution. Choose a product labeled to treat dollar spot disease and carefully follow the instructions.

Grass Spider Webs on Lawn

If you see webs on lawn grass despite proper lawn maintenance and without the characteristic brown spots, you may have grass spiders. Grass spider identification is easy because the spiders seldom leave their webs.

Look for cone-shaped spider webs in the grass. The spiders like to hide in a part of the web sheltered by fallen leaves, rocks or debris. They quickly run to another part of the web when disturbed, and they can deliver a painful, but otherwise harmless, bite.

Grass spiders are beneficial because they catch and eat insects that feed on lawn grass.

Ask the Master Gardeners: What are these tiny webs in my yard?

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Q. My yard this morning is covered in tiny webs. Can you tell me what this is? — B.R., Republic

It can depend on the type of grass you have.

In cool season lawns, if the webs are not sticky but have a funnel shape off to one side under the surface layer of the web, you have a beneficial known as the funnel spider or grass spider. These webs are unnoticeable until they get a heavy dew on a cool, humid morning.

Grass spiders can move very quickly over the web, especially if dry — then it looks like the spider is walking on air.

Grass spiders are beneficial predators, eating a variety of insects in the lawn. They won’t usually enter homes or sheds and are not considered dangerous. If you try to eradicate them, you will probably see an influx of pests in your yard and garden.

If you have ryegrass, very rare in our area (unless you recently reseeded your lawn with a mix containing rye), the webs could be a disease called pythium.

Ryegrass lawns that receive too much nitrogen may be too green and succulent for this time of the year. The most effective control for this is to reduce the amount of nitrogen that you apply over the course of the year.

If you have warm season grass, you will most likely see a fungal disease known as dollar spot. The most effective control is to apply more nitrogen fertilizer over the course of the year with most of it in the fall. This disease is also common in lawns where the clippings are bagged, which robs nitrogen from the lawn.

Dollar spot occurs with high relative humidity or extended periods of blade wetness. The disease is most severe when the turf is growing slowly (like in the hot summer months) when entering or leaving dormancy.

The fungus appears as small, circular spots about the size of a silver dollar, thus the name dollar spot. These spots can affect areas as large as two to eight inches in diameter. Early symptoms on individual leaves are chlorotic (yellow) areas that become water-soaked and later turn a bleached, straw color.

During early morning hours, when dew is present, you may observe the fungal growth on top of the turf leaf blades that resemble tiny spider webs (although these are a much finer, less dense webbing than the funnels produced by the grass spiders mentioned above). Upon close examination, the webs will have a hole in the center, and the tiny threads will be spun in a circular pattern. The fungal mycelium growth will disappear as the dew dries, and the turf leaf blades will begin to turn yellow.

Mow regularly and maintain correct mowing height. Apply appropriate fungicides if the disease becomes severe and circular areas are dying out.

Q. Do the Master Gardener have any plant sales in the fall? — K.K., Willard

The Christian County Master Gardeners have an Annual Fall Plant Sale on Sept. 24 from 8-11 a.m. at 113 W. Mt. Vernon, Nixa (corner of Main and Hwy. 14). Trees, shrubs, perennials and bulbs will be for sale and ready for planting. The money raised goes to support CCMG’s projects, including a scholarship to College of the Ozarks.

Readers can pose questions or get more information by calling 417-874-2963 and talking to one of the trained volunteers staffing the Mas­ter Gardener Hotline at the University of Missouri Exten­sion Center in Greene County located inside the Botanical Center, 2400 S. Scenic Ave., Springfield, MO 65807.

What’s with all the spiderwebs in your yard?

One of the most common spiders found throughout North America are the Funnel Web or Grass Spiders in the family Agelenidae. Each morning as you leave for work their webs are scattered throughout your yard like glistening crystal palaces.

Their sheet-like web spreads out for nearly a foot (or more) in a circular fashion with a distinct funnel-like opening near the center. It is this opening that earned them the common name of funnel web spider. They hide out inside the funnel laying in wait for an unsuspecting insect to crawl across the web. They will run rapidly out of their hiding place and attack the insect. The webbing of this harmless spider is not sticky like other spider webs, they instead rely on capturing their prey by using their extremely fast acting venom. They typically build their web on or near the ground, among grasses or other foliage, or in the corners of man-made structures. Mostly active at night, they will still catch insects that land in their snares by day. As mentioned before, these spiders are considered harmless to humans, and though you may consider their webs unsightly, they are actually helpful in reducing the insect population of your lawn. So, if you can tolerate their presence, it will be beneficial in the long run.

Grass (Agelenopsis)

The American grass spider, as they are commonly called, is a genus of spiders belonging to the funnel weaver family, mostly indigenous to different parts of the United States.

Grass Spider

List of Species Belonging to the Genus

Agelenopsis actuosa Agelenopsis aleenae Agelenopsis aperta
Agelenopsis emertoni Agelenopsis kastoni Agelenopsis longistyla
Agelenopsis naevia Agelenopsis oklahoma Agelenopsis oregonensis
Agelenopsis pennsylvanica Agelenopsis potteri Agelenopsis riechertae
Agelenopsis spatula Agelenopsis utahana

Physical Description & Identification

Adults

Size: They are moderately big in size, having a body length of about 19 mm (0/74 inches), with the males being smaller in size than the females.

Color: They are mostly brown in color while some species may also be seen in shades of gray, ivory, beige, black or a blend of various shades.

Other characteristics: They have eight eyes arranged in rows of three, two on top, four in the middle and two at the bottom. These species have two prominent spinnerets at the back, indistinct bands on the legs as well as two dark bands on each side of its cephalothorax.

Grass Spider Size

Eggs

The eggs are big and round, lying within a disc-shaped sac.

Grass Spider Egg

Spiderlings

The spiderlings of this species go through a lot of molts after emerging from the egg sac until it reaches adulthood.

The Web

The funnel spider spin sheet webs having a funnel shelter on one of the edges. Their webs are non-sticky, lacking the adhesive capacity, however, the grass spiders make up for this flaw by running fast while getting after their prey.

Grass Spider Web

Are the Funnel Web Grass Spiders Poisonous and do They Bite

The funnel web grass spiders are not harmful and rarely bite unless provoked or agitated. Moreover, their bite does not cause harm to mankind apart from the basic symptoms of swelling and redness. A species of this genus, the desert grass spider (Agelenopsis aperta) is said to produce agatoxins and their bite could be threatening for insects, though in mankind they are not of much medical significance.

Male Grass Spider

Quick Facts

Lifespan 1-2 years
Distribution Parts of the United States and Canada
Habitat Mostly outdoors amidst tall grasses, and the shrubby areas
Common Predators Lizards, chameleons, and geckos
Diet Small insects and other spiders

Picture of a Grass Spider

Did You Know

  • C. G. Giebel described these spiders for the first time in 1869.
  • Their genus name is a blend of Agelena and opsis, with the former being referred to the Eurasian grass spiders and the latter a Greek word, meaning to have a similar look.
  • The grass spider is often confused with the wolf spiders as both of them have similar color patterns around their head region, though the latter is more harmful than the former.
  • Because of their brown body, this species may even be mistaken for the venomous brown recluse, though the former can be mostly distinguished by the dark stripes running through its abdomen.

Funnel Web Grass Spider

Spider Webs

Spiders are classified according to their way of life. Web-Spinning Spiders spin webs to trap insects because their vision is not very good. They know when prey is trapped on their web by detecting and reacting to the vibrations the line makes from their prey moving and trying to get free. Hunting Spiders run after insects or lie in wait for them. Some hunting spiders spin simple webs that stretch out along the ground to catch insects. These spiders are grouped as hunters because they run after the insects that land in their webs.
This article will deal with silk of spider webs as well as different types of webs and how various spiders use these webs in their daily lives. Did you know that each spider can produce several different types of silk?

Size and Purpose of Webs Silk of Web Silk Properties

If you need help with eliminating and preventing the formation of spider webs in and around the home, in boats or other vehicles, read about Cobweb Eliminator.
Other articles of interest, for both spider control needs and general spider information:

Spiders Control of Nuisance Spiders Black Widow Spider Bites and Stings
Brown Recluse Spiders Brown Recluse Bite

Size, Shape and Purpose of Webs

Webs have different purposes, according to the individual species of spider, how it captures or stores its prey. Spider’s silk can be used to help small, young spiders transport to new areas (ballooning) or be so strong that it is used to make fish nets, as with the Nephila spider web. Other types of spider webs and their silk discussed here:

  • Tangled spider webs
  • Orb web
  • Sheet webs
  • Gum-footed webs
  • Horizontal Line Webs
  • Bolas Spider Web
  • Triangle webs

A Spiders Web is made from silk. Spiders are the only animals that use silk in their daily lives. Spiders have seven pairs of silk spinning organs or glands called “spinnerets” located either in the middle or at the end of their abdomen. Each spinneret on the spider is different from the other and used for making several
kinds of silk: attachment disk silk (leaves a zigzag pattern and gives strength to the dragline), a strong dragline or safety line silk (gives the spider an anchor point), orb web spiral line (gives the web strength and stretchiness to catch flying prey),
glue-like sticky catching silk (traps and keeps captured prey on the web), swathing silk (for wrapping and immobilizing prey), tangling cribellate silk (tangles the bristles, spines and claws of prey) and a protective egg sac silk (to keep baby spiders safe).

The silk is produced as a liquid, but emerges from the glands as solid silk fibers when the spider moves away from the attachment point. A spider’s silk line is only .001-.004 mm thick. Amino acids and protein crystals help the silk maintain its stretchiness, stiffness and strength.
The silk that spiders produce are used for building webs, catching prey, storing food, escaping from danger, making egg sacs, sending and receiving vibrating signals and for transportation on silken ropes called “ballooning” as the spider floats through the air on the strand of silk. This ballooning technique ensures that young spiders are scattered about. If all young were to remain in one tight area, many could starve from lack of food for number of spiders and insects in a given area.
Some silk strands are stronger than steel strands of the same thickness. The silk of the Nephila spider is the strongest natural fiber known to man and is used to make tote bags and fish nets. In a specific species, spiders can use their web to capture an air bubble; with this bubble the spider can survive and hunt under water where other spiders and insects would drown.

Web-Spinning Spiders SPIDER WEB PICTURES

Web-Spinning spiders only use the tips of their legs when creating their webs so that their body doesn’t come in contact with the web and get stuck. They use a middle claw and the bristles on their leg tips to hang onto a single thread that keeps them balanced until their web is fully made.

An Orb web is the most common type of spider web and looks like a wheel with spokes. It consists of outer frame lines, radial or spoke-like lines and spiral lines. The outer frame is made up of a bridge line and two anchor lines that come together to form an upside down triangle. Three frame threads connect the corners together and from there spoke like lines are made connecting all of the threads together.
The spiral lines are created last, starting in the very center of the web and moving outward, so that the spider can use its sticky catching silk heavily throughout the web. Orb webs are created by orange garden orb weaving spiders, banded orb
weaving spiders, golden orb weaving spiders, humped or silver orb weaving spiders, arrowhead-shaped micrathenals, bolas spiders, marbled spiders, silk spiders, spiny-body spiders, shamrock orbs and labyrinth spiders, who spins both the orb
web and the tangled web.

Tangled Web Spiders

Tangled spider webs consist of a shapeless jumble of threads attached to a support such as the corner of a ceiling. Cobwebs are tangled webs that have collected dust and dirt. Cellar spiders, the comb-footed spiders (included black and brown widow spiders), the ogre-faced stick spiders and common house spiders are spiders that make these types of webs.

Sheet Webs

Sheet webs are flat sheets of silk between blades of grass or branches of shrubs or trees. Spiders that create sheet webs also spin a net of crisscrossed threads above the sheet. When a flying insect hits the net, it bounces into the sheet web. The
spider, which hangs upside down beneath the web, quickly runs to the insect and pulls it through the webbing. Sheet webs last a long time because the spider repairs any damaged parts. The bowl & doily spider, the filmy dome spider, and the platform spider form sheet webs.

Gum-footed Webs

Gum-footed webs consist of tightly woven silk strands attached between two branches. The upper strands are dry and built in sheltered areas away from sunlight while the lower strands are built in exposed area and run down to a bottom branch where they are attached. Each of the lower sticky strands are covered in sticky droplets and are attached weakly at the bottom. When an insect walks into the sticky silk strands its struggle break the lines moving the web upwards and lifting the prey off the ground reducing its chances of escaping.
Redback spiders create gum-footed webs.

Horizontal Line Webs

Horizontal Line Webs are made up of one simple line of sticky droplets stretching across low vegetation, bark and leaf litter. Spiders that create this type of web pull the line taut by keeping the slack silk underneath them until an insect hits the line. When that happens, the loose silk whips along the line and tangles the prey. Cribellate spiders and other pea-sized spiders create these webs.

Bolas Spider Web

The Bolas Spider Web is a very simple web designed for their unique method of hunting. In order to hunt and catch male moths, the bolas spider sits on a horizontal line and spins a single line with a sticky silk tip that dangles from its leg. While
waiting, this spider will emit a scent similar to a female moth. When the male moth comes toward the spider, the spider swings the sticky strand in a circle and captures the moth, pulling the strand in to feed.

Triangle Webs

Triangle Webs are created in the shape of a triangle, hence its name. The spider weaves silky strands of spokes and spirals that connect to all three strands. The triangle spider waits at one end of the web for an insect to land. When it does, the
spider shakes the web so the insect is caught and cannot escape.

Hunting Spiders

Funnel Web spiders construct large, flat, horizontal webs of non-sticky silk with a funnel at one end in grassy areas. The funnel is open at both ends so the spider can escape if necessary. When the spider feels the vibration of is prey, it dashes out, bites the insect and carries it back to the funnel.
Funnel web spiders are also known as grass spiders.

Nursery Web Spider

The Nursery Web spider is considered a hunting spider because it only builds a web when laying her eggs. She carries her eggs in a silk sac close to her body until just before they hatch. The egg sac is then attached to a leaf and a web is built around it.
The female spider then stands guard nearby until spiderlings hatch from their eggs.

Pictures of Spider Webs

  • SHEET WEB
  • FILMY DOME WEB
  • FUNNEL WEB
  • ORB SPIDER WEB

Pest Control Information Pest Control Supplies Spider Information
Spider Control Cobweb Elimination Black Widow Spider Bites and Stings
Brown Recluse Spider Bite of Brown Recluse Spider Webs

Can it be white mold or spider mite web?

Hello,
I had serious problems with mites about 5 weeks before harvest. I was enable to slow them down and nearly kill them, but they came back and about 3 days before harvest I had really a lot of them everywhere, but I know I already won the battle.
I switched the lights off 2 days before harvest, so water and all nutrients are sucked up. Then I began to harvest, and had a real good air circulation and about 70 degree temperature. Everything was placed over a newspaper and I didn’t build any piles.
After first day all the paper was wet so I replaced it, because so much moisture was coming out. After 3 days of drying I put all on a closet on shelves, again over newspaper and didn’t make any piles. I left the doors open and had about 17000 cubic feet per hour of air being sucked out from the top of the room. Now 7 days later, I checked everything and found on parts, also deep inside, some white web. I remember finding white web also inside when I was harvesting and trimming, so I know that was web, but now i’m not so sure. Temperature in the closet was at least 60 degrees, but there wasn’t any air breezing directly. However doors being open and the ventilation being that extreme inside the whole room should make the moisture spread out pretty effectively. If any moisture vaporizes, it spreads because of entropy. So air can flow free but nothing was actually breezing directly inside those closest.
Do any experts have any guesses, is this just the leftovers of the mites web or is it white mold? Can mold occur even the air could flow freely? And so much of air was sucked out, not just directly. I really cannot tell the difference of this mold or web thing. The smell was not bad in anyways, to me it was pretty much the same at the first day of harvest: a little “grassy”/fresh as it was wet but now it was only a very little moist, not wet at all. Still it had a little bit of that fresh, “plant-like” smell. There was no that kind of grassy smell like usually on leaves and definitely no earthy smell. To me it smelled good, but I’m a little worried.
I’ve read people saying that any kind of grassy smell is bad and the pictures i’ve been looking look pretty much same to me with the white mold, but I would say it is web. But I also have understood that you wont get mold easily during drying if you do it on open space with about room temperature. Now I had also air being sucked out from the same room.
So the facts are:
– there was mites
– there was web also inside, at the time of harves
– there is just fresh good smell, not earthy and not any kind of very grassy, but same kind of “grassy” as with it is directly after harvest
– there were a very little moist, but not wet at all (test patch told me 27% of weight still left, I’ve ended up sometimes with 15-18% so they might not be completely dry, however I’ve read people have it as high as 25-30% weight left and being ready to storage.
– it is the 7th day of drying
– 2 days without lights prior to harvest do increase humidity
– they were inside closet, but not piled, on shelves with thin layers, doors open
– ventilation was good but no breezing directly to shelves
– temperature was for the last 4-5 days about 60 degrees or a little bit more. about 70 for the first 3 days

This is Cobweb Mold

A common sight in mushroom cultivation is cobweb mold aka Dactylium Mildew or ‘Mucor’. It is a very fast growing mildew that thrives in environments with still air, very little oxygen, and high humidity. Generally it is easy to spot. Cobweb has a grayish color too it, and is stringy/puffy. Next to the bright white of mycelium it’s kind of hard not to notice.
If caught soon enough, before a full on outbreak, cobweb mold can be treated with straight hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and increased fresh air exchange. If not treated soon enough it will destroy your project. In the case of grain spawn jars that have been contaminated with cobweb, just throw them away. You cannot save those.
So again, if you see cobweb on a cake, or tray, etc:

  • Spray with straight hydrogen peroxide Increase fresh air exchange

    Description
    Colonies of this fungal genus are typically white to beige or grey and fast-growing. Colonies on culture medium may grow to several centimeters in height. Older colonies become grey to brown in colour due to the development of spores.
    Mucor spores or sporangiospores can be simple or branched and form apical, globular sporangia that are supported and elevated by a column-shaped columella. Mucor species can be differentiated from molds of the genera Absidia, Rhizomucor, and Rhizopus by the shape and insertion of the columella, and the lack of rhizoids. Some Mucor species produce chlamydospores.
    Reproduction
    During asexual reproduction, erect hyphal sporangiophores are formed. The tip of the sporangiophore swells to form a globose sporangium that contains uninucleate, haploid sporangiospores. An extension of the sporangiophore called the columella protrudes into the sporangium. The sporangium walls are easily ruptured to release the spores, which germinate readily to form a new mycelium on appropriate substrates.
    During sexual reproduction, compatible strains form short, specialized hyphae called gametangia. At the point where two complementary gametangia fuse, a thick-walled, spherical zygosporangium develops. The zygosporangium typically contains a single zygospore. Nuclear karyogamy and meiosis (sexual recombination) occur within the zygospores, which are thought to be long-lived and resistant to adverse conditions. They may germinate to form hyphae or a sporangium. Mucor includes both homothallic (self-compatible) and heterothallic species.
    Clinical significance
    Most species of Mucor are unable to infect humans and endothermic animals due to their inability to grow in warm environments close to 37 degrees Celsius. Thermotolerant species such as Mucor indicus sometimes cause opportunistic, and often rapidly spreading, necrotizing infections known as zygomycosis.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mucor

4 Signs of Indoor Mold

Dealing with mold in your home in Pinellas County, Florida, is never a fun experience. Indoor mold can cause a variety of health symptoms in those who suffer from allergies. It’s not always easy to know when you have mold growing in your home, but keep an eye out for these warning signs.

Health Symptoms

The symptoms that can be caused by exposure to indoor mold are similar to those you may experience when you’re coming down with a cold or suffering from allergies to other outdoor allergy triggers. These include coughing, sore throats, congestion, eye irritation, and congestion. One of the telltale signs that your symptoms are being caused by something indoors is when you feel better as soon as you leave your home. If your allergies do not worsen when you’re outside or your cold never seems to go away, it’s certainly possible that you’re suffering from an allergy to indoor mold.

When your heating and cooling system runs, it pulls air through the ducts and into the unit. This air can contain allergens, including mold spores. As the air is recirculated through the vents in the various rooms, the mold spores can be stirred up and cause more irritation. It’s especially common to experience these symptoms more severely when you wake up in the morning when you have mold growth in the home since you’ve spent the whole night breathing the contaminated air.

Dark Spots

If you spot visible signs of mold growth, this usually indicates a much bigger problem. You might think the dark spots on your walls, ceilings, or floors are caused by soot or dirt, but mold is harder to clean off than a dirty spot. This type of growth may also show up as clusters of spots in several areas or in different colors, such as gray, green, brown, or white. Thread-like mold might look more like a spider web. If you have vinyl-based wallpaper on the walls, mold peeking through often appears in brighter shades of purple, pink, or orange.

Visible signs of mold growth indicate that the mold has spread. This type of fungus tends to stay hidden in dark, undisturbed places, so you could have a major colony growing behind the wall, floor, or ceiling where you’re seeing the spots. You should never ignore the sign of mold growth, especially when it’s popping up on your walls.

Odors

Since mold typically remains hidden from view, one of the best ways to detect it is an odor. Mold has a distinctive smell that is earthy and damp. Some people compare it to the odor of wet and decaying leaves, while others think mold smells like dirty socks. If you notice any of these odors in places where they shouldn’t be, such as coming from a kitchen cupboard or near the wall of your home, it’s probably worth bringing in a professional to test for mold.

Not all mold has an odor, and different strains and types of mold can smell very different. Regardless of the smell, mold releases volatile organic compounds into the air that can be dangerous, so it’s important to get rid of the mold keep your air clean and healthy.

Moisture and Leaks

After a leak or flood, mold growth is almost inevitable. The problem comes when you don’t know you have a leak, such as with a cracked pipe behind a wall or a flood in an attic or basement that isn’t accessed very often. Even condensation from pipes that haven’t been properly protected could lead to mold growth. If you have experienced a flood recently, it’s important to have professional mold testing to determine whether the water exposure has caused any type of growth.

You can also keep an eye out for signs of plumbing issues and water leaks in your home, such as wet spots on the ceilings or walls, slow-moving or clogged drains, or puddles on the floors.

If you spot any of these signs of mold growth in your home, contact us at ServiceMaster Restore by calling 727-300-3773 to discuss mold remediation options.

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