Pruning ‘Knock Out’ Rose — When, Why, and How
‘Pink Knock Out’ rose. Photo: Steve Bender
This rose is a Knockout. Roses, long a gardener’s favorite and our country’s National Flower, still suffer from the reputation of being hard to grow. In reality, roses are tough, long-lived, flowering shrubs. No plant is more flexible, more versatile, and more fun than the rose in all its myriad forms. It takes a lot to impress Grumpy. But impressed he is when it comes to the ‘Knock Out’ rose. This All-America Selections winner might very well be the best landscape rose in existence. Three traits combine to win it high praise throughout the South. First, large clusters of lightly fragrant, cherry red flowers bloom from spring until the first hard frost of fall. Gardeners in the Coastal and Tropical South can expect year-round blooms. Second, it forms a compact, bushy shrub about 3 to 4 feet tall and wide. This makes it ideal for planting in containers, mixing with annuals and perennials in a border, or growing in a sweep as a low, informal hedge. Finally–and this is big–it never needs spraying for black spot. You don’t have to drench it in fungicide every 10 days to keep its deep green foliage looking good.
Southern gardeners now have access to a broader selection of easy-care roses than ever. Now widely available through nurseries and mail order are modern selections specifically developed for heavy, repeated bloom and easy care, as well as heirloom favorites that have always been sound landscape performers.
Rose enthusiasts can fill your head with boundless information regarding these beloved plants. But for beginning and weekend gardeners, there’s no need to get picky about what class a rose belongs to or when it was introduced. Whether a rose is new or old, its most important feature is how it performs in your garden. Choose the right rose, and you can fill any niche or empty spot in the garden with just about any color and size you desire.
One of our faithful readers, Mandi Villa, writes, “I love my ‘Knock Out’ rose, but it’s getting too big. Can I prune it without killing it?”
Yes, Mandi, you can prune without killing your rose. In fact, you can do almost anything to a ‘Knock Out’ rose without killing it short of rocketing it into the sun.
For long-lasting, easy color, plant Knock Out roses. Low maintenance and disease resistant, they love to bloom. The original ‘Knock Out’ rose has cherry red single petals. ‘Pink Knock Out’ has beautiful pink single petals. There are also double flower forms of both red and pink. ‘Blushing Knock Out’ offers light pink blooms. The newest of the Knock Out roses is the yellow ‘Sunny Knock Out.’ ‘Rainbow Knock Out’ has a range of colors from light pink to yellow to coral with a yellow center. Plant them en masse—they make great informal hedges. They will flower best in a sunny spot (at least six hours a day) with good drainage. There’s no need to keep the flowers groomed; they’re self-cleaning.
But if you want it to follow the pruning with scores of blooms on a tidy plant, you must follow Grumpy’s rules on when, why, and how to do it.
When To Prune
‘Knock Out’ (red, pink, double, etc.) blooms on new growth. This means that you can prune it almost anytime you want without ruining the season’s bloom. If you prune now, you’ll remove some flower buds and delay flowering, but you’ll get lots of blooms in a couple of weeks. During the growing season, ‘Knock Out’ typically explodes in bloom for a few weeks, goes into a resting phase, and then explodes in bloom again. A resting phase is a good time to prune. About the only time not to prune is late summer and early fall, as this might encourage late growth that wouldn’t harden off in time for winter. In the North, winter is not a good time to prune, but winter is just fine in the South.
Why To Prune
Although ‘Knock Out’ is marketed as a compact shrub, over time it gets pretty big. A neighbor of mine has a ‘Knock Out’ hedge that’s six feet tall. So periodic pruning is necessary to keep it manageable. ‘Knock Out’ also tends to produce a lot of fruit, called “rose hips,” that inhibit future flowering. Trimming these off brings it back into bloom.
How To Prune
First, put on some heavy leather gloves. Grumpy only knows of one thing possessing more vicious weapons than the thorns of ‘Knock Out’ rose.
And That Would Be Wolverine
Now that you have gloves on, let’s proceed. Use a good pair of hand pruners to shorten small branches a half-inch thick or less and loppers for thicker ones. Cut back to a leaf or an outward-facing bud. Remove dead, crowded, or crossing branches to open up the plant’s center. Cut back aggressively if you want, but not down to the graft union. That’s the knob at the base where the roots and stems meet.
Image zoom emImage: marvel.com/em
And General Pruning Guidelines:
The following pruning practices apply to all roses except certain shrub and species roses. Special instructions for pruning those roses are included later in this section.
Use sharp pruners. Remove wood that is obviously dead and wood that has no healthy growth coming from it, branches that cross through plant’s center and any that rub against larger canes, branches that make the bush appear lopsided, and any old and unproductive canes that strong new ones have replaced during past season. Cut growth back produced during the previous year, making cuts above outward-facing buds (except for very spreading selections: some cuts to inside buds will promote more height without producing many crossing branches). As a general rule, remove from one-third to no more than one-half the length of the previous season’s growth. Ideal result is a V-shaped bush with relatively open center.
If any suckers (growth produced from rootstock) are present, completely remove them. Dig down to where suckers grow from rootstock and pull them off with a downward motion; that removes growth buds that would have produced additional suckers in subsequent years. Let the wound air-dry before you replace soil around it.
Be certain you are removing a sucker rather than a new cane growing from the bud union of the budded selection. Usually you can note a distinct difference in foliage size, shape, and color and in size of thorns on sucker growth. If in doubt, let the presumed sucker grow until you can establish that it is growth from the rootstock, not the budded rose. A sucker’s flowers will be different; a flowerless, climbing cane from a bush rose is almost certainly a sucker.
Consider cutting flowers as a form of pruning. Cut off enough stem to support the flower in the vase, but don’t deprive the plant of too much foliage; leave a stem with at least two sets of five-leaflet leaves. Prune to an outward-growing bud or to a five-leaflet leaf.
What’s In A Name?
A while back, Grumpy received a nasty letter from lawyers representing the outfit-that-shall-remain-nameless that patented this plant. This notice informed me that I had willfully misspelled the name ‘Knockout’ instead of the correct way, ‘Knock Out,’ and demanded immediate remediation. You can see why spelling it the former way could cause an asteroid to slightly alter its orbit, smack into the Earth, and extinguish all life.
Here’s the ironic part. The official registered name for this cultivar of rose isn’t ‘Knock Out.’ That’s the marketing name. The cultivar’s true name is ‘Radrazz.’ Therefore, I suggest all of you ask only for ‘Radrazz’ rose when you visit your garden center.
Wouldn’t that be fun? I imagine the exchange would go something like this.
You: “Do you have any ‘Radrazz’ roses?”
You: “‘Radrazz’ roses. They bloom all summer.”
Salesperson: “I got some red, red roses. Got some pink, pink roses and white, white roses too.”
You: “No, ‘Radrazz’ roses.”
Salesperson: “Red raspberry roses?”
You: “No, I mean the roses that everyone in America is required by law to plant by the dozens in their yards every year.”
Salesperson: “Oh! I bet you mean ‘Knockout’ roses.”
Salesperson: “If you don’t haul your fat behind off of my property right now, “knockout” will refer to your state of consciousness.”
Question: Is there a way to get my ‘Knock Out’ roses to look good after this hot summer? How and when should I prune them? —MARILYN
Grumpy: Even a ‘Knock Out’ looks woozy after months of Southern heat. So put on some leather gloves to protect you from its vicious thorns and then use hand pruners to cut the plants back by about one-third. Next, fertilize them according to label directions with Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Rose Plant Food. As soon as the weather cools and you get some rain, your ‘Knock Out’ roses will live up to their name, sending out fresh foliage and blooming for the rest of fall.
The rose really is undoubtedly the best-loved flower and most widely planted shrub in the South and all other temperate parts of the world. Although mostly deciduous, roses can be evergreen in mild climates. Centuries of hybridizing have brought us the broadest possible range of forms and colors. There are foot-high miniatures, tree-smothering climbers, flowers as tiny as a thumbnail or as large as a salad plate, and all possible variations in between. Red, pink, and white, are the traditional colors, but you’ll also find flowers in cream, yellow, orange blends, and bicolors, as well as magenta, purple, lavender, and even tan and brown.
Despite the delicate appearance of their blooms, roses are often quite resilient plants. Growing them is not difficult, provided you choose types suited to your climate, buy healthy plants, locate and plant them properly, and attend to their basic needs–water, nutrients, pest and disease control, and pruning.
Location. Choose a spot in full sun (light afternoon shade in hottest regions). In partial sun, it produces fewer flowers. An open area with good air circulation helps discourage foliage diseases. Don’t plant where roots of trees or other shrubs will compete with rose roots. Prior to planting, dig a hole as deep as the root ball and at least three times as wide. Work in lots of organic matter, such as garden compost, chopped leaves, composted manure, sphagnum peat moss, or ground bark. As you’re working up the soil, mix in some slow-release rose fertilizer (available at any local nursery or home center) at the rate recommended on the label. Remove
Drainage. Be sure the soil is reasonably well drained.
Watering. Regular moisture is essential for good growth and bloom of most popular garden roses. Mulch soil beneath plants to help conserve moisture.
Fertilizing. Repeat-flowering roses do best with repeated feedings throughout the growing season. Once-flowering roses need less fertilizer: feed them once as growth begins, a second time after the blooming stops.
Pruning. As mentioned above. All roses will be more productive and attractive with some pruning. Thin out dead, weak, and old growth; reduce plant size according to type of rose and the demands of your climate.
Pest and Disease Control. It may be necessary to thwart various trouble-makers, especially if you are growing modern roses.
Zone 7 Rose Varieties – Tips On Growing Roses In Zone 7 Gardens
U.S. hardiness zone 7 runs through the center of the United States in a little strip. In these zone 7 areas, winter temperatures can reach 0 degrees F. (-18 C.), while summer temperatures may reach 100 F. (38 C.). This can make plant selections difficult, as plants that love the hot summers can struggle to make it through the cold winters, and vice versa. In regards to finding hardy roses for zone 7, it’s better to select roses based on their cold hardiness and provide them with some dappled shade during hot summer afternoons. Read on for more information on zone 7 rose varieties and tips on growing roses in zone 7.
Growing Roses in Zone 7
I often suggest growing roses to my landscape customers. This suggestion is sometimes met with great protest because roses sometimes have a reputation of being high maintenance. Not all roses require extra care though. There are six main types of roses for zone 7 gardens:
- Hybrid tea
- Shrub roses
Hybrid tea roses produce florist and show quality roses. They are the type that require the most care and maintenance but often offer gardeners the greatest reward. Shrub roses, which are what I often suggest to my customers, are the lowest maintenance roses. While the flowers of shrub roses are not nearly as showy as hybrid tea roses, they will bloom from spring until frost.
Zone 7 Rose Varieties
Below I have listed some of the most common hardy roses for zone 7 gardens and their bloom color:
- Arizona – Orange/Red
- Bewitched – Pink
- Chicago Peach – Pink/Peach
- Chrysler Imperial – Red
- Eiffel Tower – Pink
- Garden Party – Yellow/White
- John F. Kennedy – White
- Mr. Lincoln – Red
- Peace – Yellow
- Tropicana – Orange/Peach
- Angel Face – Pink/Lavender
- Betty Prior – Pink
- Circus – Yellow/Pink
- Fire King – Red
- Floradora – Red
- Golden Slippers – Yellow
- Heat Wave – Orange/Red
- Julia Child – Yellow
- Pinnochio – Peach/Pink
- Rumba – Red/Yellow
- Saratoga – White
- Aquarius – Pink
- Camelot – Pink
- Comanche – Orange/Red
- Golden Girl – Yellow
- John S. Armstrong – Red
- Montezuma – Orange/Red
- Ole – Red
- Pink Parfait – Pink
- Queen Elizabeth – Pink
- Scarlett Knight – Red
- Blaze – Red
- Blossom Time- Pink
- Climbing Tropicana – Orange
- Don Juan – Red
- Golden Showers – Yellow
- Iceland Queen- White
- New Dawn – Pink
- Royal Sunset – Red/Orange
- Sunday Best – Red
- White Dawn – White
- Baby Darling – Orange
- Beauty Secret – Red
- Candy Cane – Red
- Cinderella – White
- Debbie – Yellow
- Marilyn – Pink
- Pixie Rose – Pink
- Little Buckeroo – Red
- Mary Marshall – Orange
- Toy Clown – Red
- Easy Elegance Series – includes many varieties and many available colors
- Knock Out Series – includes many varieties and many available colors
- Harrison’s Yellow – Yellow
- Pink Grootendorst – Pink
- Park Director Riggers – Red
- Sarah Van Fleet – Pink
- The Fairy – Pink
I need an antique climber that is a repeat bloomer, of any color, fragrant and one that preferably blooms in clusters. However, although we live in Zone 6B, we are on a high hill and have a slightly colder “microclimate.” Which rose do you suggest?
Old-fashioned roses are one of my favorite subjects. Their beauty and ease of care make them ideal for any garden.
Climbing old-fashioned roses are excellent accents for growing over entry arbors, around doorframes and across fences. I have a friend who has trained climbing ‘New Dawn’ around her kitchen window. The pale pink, fragrant flowers appear continuously from spring through fall framing her view out into the garden. The effect is enchanting. Whenever I am there I half expect to see Snow White smiling at me through the open window.
Here is a list of a few of my favorite old-fashioned climbing roses. One of these is sure to suit your garden needs.
- Climbing ‘Cecile Brunner’- 1894, Polyantha
This delightful rose bears pale pink clusters of blooms throughout the growing season. Grows 20 – 30 feet. Fragrant. Hardiness zones: 6 – 9.
- Climbing ‘Clotilde Soupert’ – 1902, Polyantha
White clusters of blooms adorn this garden beauty from spring until late fall in my garden. Grows 12 – 15 feet. Fragrant. Hardiness zones: 6 – 9.
- Yellow ‘Lady Banks’ – 1807, Species
This rose only blooms once but what a display! Cascades of tightly clustered yellow blooms cover the plant for as long as 6 weeks and perfume the air with a sweet violet scent. The canes are nearly thornless, which makes this a perfect rose for accenting an entryway. The only downside to this rose is that it is susceptible to temperatures below 15 degrees F. Grows 12 – 20 feet. Fragrant. Deer resistant. Hardiness zones: 8 – 9.
- ‘Lamarque’ – 1830, Noisette
This is one of my favorite climbing roses, so I had to include it on the list. However, it is only cold hardy to zone 7 so it might not be suitable for a zone 6 garden. I have this rose planted so that it grows up and over the door to my chicken house. It blooms repeatedly throughout the summer and often as late as December. The large flowers are fully double, creamy white. Grows 12 – 20 feet. Fragrant. Hardiness zones: 7 -9.
- ‘Madame Alfred Carriere’ – 1879, Noisette
The hefty blooms of this rose are highly fragrant, making it a favorite for planting over an entry arbor. The continuously blooming flowers open a pale pink and fade to cream. The canes produce a minimal amount of thorns – always plus when selecting roses for training to grow up arbors and trellises. Grows 15 – 20 feet. Fragrant. Hardiness zones: 6 – 9.
- ‘New Dawn’ – 1930, Large Flowering Climber
Although not a true old-fashioned rose, my list would not be complete without ‘New Dawn’. I have this rose planted in several locations in my garden. Requiring little effort on my part, this rose rewards me throughout the growing season with large, pale pink blooms and lustrous, dark green foliage. Grows 12 – 20 feet. Fragrant. Hardiness zones: 5 – 9.
- Climbing ‘Old Blush’ – Unknown Date, China
I have ‘Old Blush’ situated along the front fence in my garden. The lilac pink blooms blend nicely with the maroon barberry and violet roses of my ‘Russell’s Cottage’ planted nearby. The flowers form in loose clusters and are produced with such abandon that they fade quickly to make room for more. Grows 12- 20 feet. Fragrant. Hardiness zones: 7 – 9.
- Climbing ‘The Fairy’ – Unknown Date, Polyantha
As the name implies, ‘The Fairy’ is dainty in stature but robust in bloom. Petite, deep pink blooms cover this rose in tight clusters from spring through fall. Grows 8 – 12 feet. Not fragrant. Hardiness zones: 5 – 9.