Repotting meyer lemon tree

What’s the Best Soil for an Indoor Lemon Tree?

Are you looking to grow an indoor lemon tree but aren’t sure which soil to buy? Read on to learn about soil requirements for indoor lemon trees.

Growing lemons inside gives you access to fresh, delicious citrus fruit all year long. And, it fills your home with a refreshing and fragrant aroma that is better than any air freshener you can buy. Plus, lemon trees make beautiful decor in your indoor space.

There are so many benefits to growing indoor lemon trees. Read on to learn about the right soil for your indoor lemon tree.

Need a new lemon tree? Check out our popular Meyer lemon trees for sale right here at US Citrus! We also offer pink variegated lemon trees and Eureka lemon trees. Citrus trees that are ready to bear fruit within the second year!

Best Soil for Indoor Lemon Tree

Many people think that garden soil will work well for potted lemon trees, but that is not true.

Regular garden soil will not drain well and will likely become compacted and dense.

Select a potting mixture from your local garden store. The pH level of the soil can make a difference in the health of your lemon trees.

The perfect pH level for indoor lemon trees is between 5.5-6.5. You can get a pH testing kit from most garden stores to verify that your soil is right for lemon trees.

If it isn’t, you can raise the soil’s pH by adding lime. Or, if your soil is too acidic, you can use sulfur to lower the pH level.

Always use free potting mix when your lemon tree outgrows the pot it is currently growing in. This will happen every three years or so.

Make Your Own Potting Mixture

If you have your heart set on making your own potting mixture for your Meyer lemon tree or dwarf lemon tree, you can.

You will need equal parts sand, peat, perlite or bark. Just make sure to test the pH level of your soil.

Ensure Enough Soil Drainage

Caring for a potted lemon tree requires having adequate drainage.

Opt for a pot with lots of drainage holes along the bottom. This prevents the extra water from choking the roots of your lemon tree.

Put some gravel in the tray your pot will sit in. That prevents the roots from sitting in water.

You can add in a layer of screen to keep the soil in if your pot has very large drainage holes.

It’s best if you raise your lemon tree pot off the ground with bricks so that your soil can get enough air circulation.

Nutrient Requirements for Lemon Trees

Indoor lemon trees have different nutrient requirements than outdoor ones.

Choose a slow-release citrus fertilizer for your indoor lemon tree soil. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations to know how much fertilizer to give and when.

Generally, if your lemon tree has nice, green leaves, you are providing the right amount of fertilizer. Yellow leaves are a warning sign that you are either over watering your tree or that the soil is lacking iron.

Remember, you need to water indoor plants more than you would water a tree growing in your yard. But, you want the soil partly dry in between watering.

Final Thoughts

Growing indoor lemon trees can be rewarding and successful. You can enjoy delicious, home-grown lemons regardless of the climate you live in.

Visit the US Citrus blog for more helpful articles, including how to care for citrus trees, recipes, health benefits and more.

Interested in growing your own lemon tree? Check out our citrus trees, including our fast-growing, micro-budded Meyer lemon trees here at US Citrus.

Lemon tree repotting

pots for clientsShoot, sorry JStorage, I’m going to give the opposite advice. It would be nice, however to see the size of the tree as it is now to be sure of the next pot size.

The whole deal about planting a too small plant in relation to a too large pot is this; not only does the pot and soil have to drain when watered there also needs to be a large enough root system to suck up the water or too much water will be allowed time to cause root rot and other maladies.

A plant that is in proportion to its pot will have a shorter period of new root growth before the top growth starts growing to accommodate those roots. Like a mini ecosystem…The top growth needs moisture from the roots, the healthy roots, as well as the chemicals absolutely necessary to do photosynthesis that provides the plant with usable energy that goes to the roots (for growth and storage), to the leaves for more photosynthesis to feed the plant and accommodate the new growth, the roots when they sense they are in equilibrium with the soil and water and air and chemicals/nutrients will send energy into the top growth to include flowers and fruit.

Putting a too small plant into a large amount of soil in a pot (this is vastly different than the large body of the garden out of doors) causes an imbalance. Mainly moisture which regulates the amount of air available in the soil. Just a little bit too wet and those baby roots are vulnerable to rot.

Not to mention that plant will be trying to fill that soil, bound by the pot with roots. First. There will be no top growth until that happens. That little plant has maybe a 50/50 chance to become healthy, miss out on root rot, during its stressed time where roots are trying to grow with little to no top growth that produces the energy/food necessary for larger roots and top growth…vulnerable to disease, insects big time.

Please send a picture of your lemon. Pop it out of the container it is in and take a picture of the root system. How long has it been in this container? What did the nursery say it had been fertilized with before you became its owner?

Plants can easily take transplanting. They are not that fragile, no way! When healthy they deal with transplanting very well. I always ‘fruf’ up the roots breaking a few before putting the plant in new soil. That encourages new roots (lots to do with new enzymes from breakage) and stops roots from encircling their own root system. Root bound means plants have been in a certain pot too long and the roots have followed the circular or square boundaries of their pot. Those roots will continue to grow in that direction and could possibly choke themselves off even if transplanted into the garden or a larger pot.

When we planted thousands of bucks worth of plants in a new landscape (thousands of times) heck couldn’t do it all myself and had to teach my crews what to do. They were to use a knife to cut at least 3 or 4 vertical lines down that root ball. Sometimes they needed to use a shovel and punch through those roots to stop the circling because some plants were very root bound. Sometimes we had to ‘butterfly’ the root ball to fit the plant into a tight spot. Sometimes we had to amputate half the dang root ball. Not one single time that I remember did a plant die. Trust me, my crews were not caring humans with a soft touch. Shock never was a problem. Shock becomes a problem with change of environment (sun, shade, more wind), poor soil, poor drainage and temperature changes. Not with transplanting. Plants actually seem to enjoy transplanting…well some plants. Plants used to life in pots will thrive after transplanting into a pot 2 or 3 inches larger than what it was used to. Any more then too much soil versus roots will cause shock.

Planting flower pots and hanging baskets are a good example. One hanging 14″ basket cost around $200. One big pot with a tree and perennials and annuals would go for $1000 and they’d hire me every year. And I used the clients own pots, not new ones. That was a larger bill. You wouldn’t believe the number of plants that go into these pots. Chop chop, stuff stuff, cramming little plants together in LARGE pots but always with one or two or three larger, more mature, huge root systems planted in that large pot to get soil and water and drainage system going.

It is really a no no to plant a too small plant in a pot too large. Fresh potting soil. Make sure you use potting soil. Use Osmocote fertilizer you will need to only add once or twice per year. Absolutely no compost added, no sand, and no gravel below the soil and above the hole. Use pot feet or pieces of tile to get air under the pot, now that really improves drainage! And always leave a good inch or so between the top of the soil and the rim for proper watering. Let the potting soil dry out some before watering again. During the summer…depending on the pot size and the plant it might be every day. Otherwise, it will not should not be everyday. This is how you train the roots to grow to be able to get at moisture at the bottom half of the pot. All plants need this. Otherwise, saturated soil in the garden and especially pots will kill plants. Gravel beneath the soil causes a ‘perched water table’ actually ruining any drainage.

Please send a couple of pictures.

Edible Landscaping – How to: Grow Citrus in a Container

Select citrus tree varieties that naturally stay dwarf in containers. It will be easier to care for them and move them in and outdoors in cold climates.

‘Improved Meyer’ lemon is an excellent container citrus selection. The plants stay small and the fruits will grow and mature even indoors in a cold climate.

There’s nothing like the taste of fresh citrus fruits picked from your own trees. However, unless you live in citrus country (California, Florida, Texas, Arizona), then you’re probably going to have to get creative about growing it. The best way to grow citrus in colder climates is in a container. Even if you live in citrus country, container growing makes sense. It keeps the trees dwarf and compact, and makes the plants easier to manage. Newer varieties are better adapted to container culture, and many varieties are self-fruitful, so you don’t need to worry about pollination.

Even if you live in a climate where it will be difficult to get ripe fruit from your citrus tree, there are always the sweet scented flowers that bloom year round and make citrus a favored houseplant as well.

Here are the basics on how to grow citrus in containers.

1. Select the Right Plants. Although any citrus tree can grow in a container, full sized grapefruit or orange trees may be hard pressed to survive many years even in a large container. Look for dwarf varieties of citrus, such as ‘Improved Meyer’ lemon, ‘Bearss’ lime, ‘Kaffir’ lime, kumquats, ‘Trovita’ orange, ‘Calamondin’ orange, and ‘ Buddha’s Hand ‘ orange for container growing. These tend to stay between 6 and 12 feet tall at maturity outdoors and can be kept even at a smaller height in a container. In cold areas the ‘Improved Meyer’ lemon, ‘Calamondin’ orange, and kumquats are good choices since they’re most likely to fruit indoors.

2. Select a Good Container. Start with a small container when planting a young citrus tree since it will be easier to maintain proper soil moisture than in a big container. If the soil stays too wet in a large container, the young tree with a small root system may rot and die. A new citrus tree will grow fine in an 8-inch diameter container to start. Two to three year old trees will need a 10 to 12 inch diameter container. Eventually, you’ll need a 16 to 20 gallon container or one-half whiskey barrel-sized container for long term growth.

Select plastic, terra cotta, or wooden containers. Be sure they have adequate drainage holes. Plastic containers are the lightest weight and easiest to move in and outdoors with the seasons. However, the glazed terra cotta containers look more attractive when the plants are being grown indoors as houseplants.

3. Select the Right Soil Mix. Citrus need well drained soil, so selecting the right potting mix is important. Commercial potting mixes with peat moss, perlite, vermiculite and compost are fine to use as long as the soil is light enough to drain water well. If your soil is still too heavy, try adding hardwood bark chips to the mix to increase the amount of air spaces.

Even if you can’t get your citrus to fruit, the sweetly scented flowers leave a perfume that will fill a room.

Kumquats offer many small, tangy and sweet tasting fruits on rounded trees that are adapted to container growing.

4. Potting Up the Tree. Place bare root trees in the container, gently packing in soil around the roots to remove air spaces. Plant so the citrus roots are just below the soil surface, but the crown is just above it. If transplanting an existing citrus tree into a larger container, remove the old tree and examine the roots. Cut off any dead, broken, and circling root and repot. Water well.

5. Watering. Citrus prefer infrequent, deep watering as opposed to frequent shallow watering. Water when the soil is dry to 6 inches deep. If the leaves are wilting and perk up after watering, then you waited too long to water. If the leaves are yellowing and cup-shaped, and don’t perk up after watering, then you have been overwatering. Usually once or twice a week is a good frequency to water, but adjust it based on the time of year and weather. Cool cloudy conditions in winter will necessitate less frequent watering than hot, sunny summer conditions.

6. Fertilizing and Pruning. Fertilize in spring with a citrus plant food. Citrus need extra nitrogen, so look for formulations with double the nitrogen compared to phosphorous and potassium. If you can’t find citrus plant food in your area, timed-released or organic fruit tree foods with micronutrients are good alternatives. These slow release products will feed the plant over time. If the leaves yellow and the watering is correct, supplement the granular fertilizers with occasional foliar sprays of fish emulsion.

Prune off any new shoots that arise from below the graft union. These are rootstock shoots and won’t grow into the desired citrus variety. You can also remove thorns if you wish to make handling the tree easier. These will gradually diminish as the citrus tree ages. Prune for shape and balance in spring, removing errant or leggy branches.

7. Pests. Control aphids, scale, and mealybug pests by hand picking them, dabbing mealybugs with cotton swabs dipped in rubbing alcohol, spraying insecticidal soap on aphids, and horticultural oil on scale.

8. Winter Care. In cold winter areas, bring citrus indoors when temperatures dip into the 30Fs. Slowly transition the trees to the indoor/outdoor environment in spring and fall by bringing them in and out for one week. Place potted plants in a sunny south-facing window, reduce watering and consider placing a humidifier or other houseplants around to keep the humidity high during the dry months. In warm winter climates, protect trees left outdoors from the occasional frost with Christmas lights, blankets or burlap.

More information on growing citrus in containers:

Growing Citrus in Containers


Growing citrus trees in the ground can be immensely rewarding, and it naturally produces the biggest and most vigorous specimens. However, before planting a citrus tree in the ground, you must determine whether or not the location you have in mind will provide a suitable home for your new dwarf citrus tree.

How Will Citrus Look In My Yard?
Sometimes people aren’t quite sure about using citrus as a landscape plant. In fact, citrus work extraordinarily well in most any landscape, offering beautiful evergreen foliage, lovely (and fragrant) blossoms, and colorful fruit.

Citrus trees purchased through our mail order website are all grafted on semi dwarf rootstocks that are perfect for container growing. If planted in the ground dwarf trees can be expected to reach Semi-Dwarf size – up to around 16 feet in height, depending upon variety. In a pot, the semi dwarf trees will stay much smaller, especially with judicious pruning. Standard size citrus trees, available at California nurseries, grown in the ground and can be expected to get much taller – up to 25 feet, depending on variety. Be sure to provide more space in the ground for standard size trees. Generally, a Semi Dwarf tree needs an 8-10 foot diameter space, while a Standard tree should be provided with a larger growing space – up to 15 feet in diameter.

In general, ground-planted citrus trees are happiest in warm, temperate areas. Some varieties are much more frost-tolerant than others. For information on a specific variety, please refer to our hardiness table.

A sunny, frost and wind-free location with southern exposure is best. If in doubt about the location, leave the tree in its plastic container and place it in the spot you have in mind. Water as needed, and after a week or two you should be able to tell whether or not it’s happy.

Reflected heat from sidewalks, walls, driveways, or other structures can help to create a warmer “microclimate.” Avoid planting citrus trees in lawns that get frequent, shallow sprinklings. Don’t crowd your tree, for even though it is a Semi Dwarf, it will need room for its eight-ten foot ultimate diameter. The root system can reach far beyond the drip line.
Citrus trees are famous for tolerating a wide variety of soils, including clay. However, good drainage is essential, as citrus trees can’t survive standing water for long. To test your drainage, dig a hole 30″ deep where you would like to place the tree. Fill with water to saturate the soil. The next day refill it with water. Your drainage is OK if the water level drops 2″ in two hours. If the water does not drain well, plant your tree in a raised bed and then amend the soil as described in the following paragraph.
Soils rich in humus are best. For heavy or poor soils, we recommend digging a large hole and filling it back in, half with the best of the original soil, and half with a good-quality amendment mix. Plant the root ball high to allow it room to settle over time. Crown roots should remain just below the soil line.
If the plant is growing in a container, gently invert the container to remove the soil intact. Trees that are somewhat dry will usually release more easily from the pot for transplanting. Squeezing the sides of a plastic pot can help to loosen the soil and roots. If planting a bare-rooted mail order tree, shake loose the shavings the roots are packed in before planting. Add the shavings along with your other amendments to the prepared mix for the planting hole.

Take note of the abundant fibrous root system. Straighten out any circling roots and cut off any broken or dead roots before planting. Amend your planting hole as described above. Do not add fertilizer to the soil while backfilling your hole; however, you can apply some to the soil surface after planting. Be sure to tamp soil lightly as you go and water thoroughly after planting to eliminate any large air pockets. Stake the tree as needed until well-established. Green plant tie is a good choice for tying trees to stakes.
Citrus trees are best planted during the active growing season. In summer it is best to plant in the early morning hours when temperatures are cool to moderate. Try to keep the roots out of the sun as much as possible. Water the tree thoroughly after transplanting. If desired, use a solution of Vitamin B-1 Rooting Tonic in the first few irrigations to help fine feeder roots recover more quickly. You may wish to pinch off fruit and blossoms for the first year or two after a new planting to encourage stronger root and branch development.
Consistency is the key with citrus watering! As with so many plants, citrus trees like soil that is moist but never soggy. How often to water will vary on the environment and depends on soil porosity, tree size, and temperature. Allowing the top of the soil to dry slightly is OK. A simple moisture meter, available at garden supply stores, can be used to determine moisture down to about a 9” depth. Generally, when the meter indicates root moisture level of about 50%, (center of dial) it is time to water. Always store your moisture meter dry between uses to keep it functioning properly
A wilted tree that perks up within 24 hours after watering indicates the roots got too dry. Adjust watering schedule accordingly. A tree with yellow or cupped leaves, or leaves that don’t look perky after watering can indicate excessive watering and soggy roots. In that case, water less frequently.
In the ground, citrus prefer less frequent, deep watering to frequent, shallow sprinklings. Creating a watering basin around the drip-line of the tree can aid in deep watering. As the tree grows, be sure to expand the basin as needed to keep it as wide as the spread of the branches. Deeper watering promotes deeper root growth and strengthens your tree. Generally, once-a-week watering works well for in-ground plantings. Be sure to adjust based on weather conditions! In general, it is best to water in the morning, but if plants are dry or wilted it is better to water them immediately, rather than wait until morning.

Liberal use of mulches will conserve precious water and help inhibit weed growth. A 2-3 inch layer of redwood shavings, fir bark, compost, or other organic matter can be very helpful for water retention. To reflect heat and hasten fruit ripening, some people mulch with light colored gravel or crushed rock. “Living mulches” such as nitrogen fixing clovers can also be planted between trees in an orchard. To avoid root diseases, always keep grasses and other vegetation away from the root collar area. Keep all mulches at least six inches away from the base of the trunk.
Know where the graft union is on your tree. It can usually be seen as a diagonal scar between 4 and 8 inches from the soil. Remove all shoot growth below the graft. These so-called “suckers” take vitality from the top of the tree (the fruiting wood). Especially on young trees, they are very vigorous. Remove suckers as soon as they are observed.

Juvenile fruiting wood will sometimes have thorns. This is a young plant’s way of defending against grazing animals. As the tree matures, thorns will not appear as often. Prune off thorns if desired.

Growing Citrus in Containers

April 5, 2019 OGW Growing Guidescitrusfruitsgrowing citrus in containersplantsshrubstrees

April 5th, 2019

You can grow delicious Oranges, Lemons, Limes and more almost anywhere. By growing them in pots, you can enjoy their evergreen beauty and fragrant flowers even during the coldest winter months. Our very dwarf varieties make it easy to keep the plants small and harvest good crops of full-size fruit. While most Citrus are not hardy, growing them in containers allows you to bring your citrus plants indoors during the winter, protecting them from damaging cold temperatures.

Growing a Citrus plant in a container is not difficult. For good growth and ultimate success, it is important to consider the following:

Container & Soil

Choose a container large enough to support your plant for several years. Eventually, the pot will fill with roots and it will be necessary to remove and re-pot the plant. The larger the pot, the longer it can grow without repotting. A 5 gal. pot should be adequate for 3-4 years. A 7 or 10 gal. pot will allow more years of growth. A 15 gal. pot or ½ whiskey barrel will likely allow 8-10 years of growth before re-potting. For larger pots consider placing a wheeled dolly under the pot to make it easy to move it indoors and out.

Once you have the container, choose a coarse, well-drained potting soil. Fine potting mix holds too much water and is not suitable. Check the label on the bag to see if any fertilizer has been added. If not, it is a good idea to incorporate some slow-release fertilizer, either chemical or organic. Citrus plants like acidic soil so choose a fertilizer that works for Blueberries, Azaleas or other acid-loving plants. We like to use Citrus Mix which is a perfectly balanced organic formulation created just for Citrus Trees.

Planting & Growing Sites

Partially fill your new container with potting soil, making a mound in the center high enough so the original soil surface of the plant will be a couple of inches below the rim of the pot. Remove your plant from its existing pot and inspect the roots. Usually it will be necessary to loosen them a bit to stop them from circling and get them growing away from the rootball. Loosen and pull out some roots from the edge of the existing rootball and drape them evenly over the mound of soil in the new pot. If roots are not long enough to drape them down the sides of the mound, simply rest the original rootball on top of the mound. Once your plant is positioned properly, fill the remainder of the pot, working soil around the roots, and then water well.

Citrus like an outdoor environment during the growing season. You can leave your plant outdoors in late spring, summer and early fall, when there is no danger of frost. This will keep your plant healthier and reduce the potential of pest damage. Choose a site with at least ½ day sun. This can be a deck, patio, or any similar place. It should be close enough to your house or greenhouse so it is easy to move indoors in the fall.

In the fall, move your plant indoors to a location with significant light. A south wall with windows will work. Even better is a solarium. If you do not have a suitable location, you can use a grow light, turned on about 16 hours a day. Try to keep your plant cool during the winter. Do not put it in front of a heater vent or close to other such heat sources.

The transition from indoor to outdoor growing conditions and vice versa should be done over a period of several days. An abrupt change of environment can cause leaf and fruit drop. It is important to harden-off the leaves by moving it inside at night. When outside during the transition avoid the intensely hot sun during the day for about 7-10 days. Watch out for leaf burn and drying wind. Use Surround WP to ensure a safe transition from indoor to outdoor growing.

Watering & Fertilizing

When you grow a plant in a pot, you are responsible for its environment. It is important to check soil moisture often. While your plant does not want to dry out, the biggest danger is overwatering. Signs of over-watering are flower bud drop, fruit and leaf dropping. During the growing season, a deep watering once a week is often enough. In the winter, when the plant is growing slowly, if at all, a deep watering every two weeks or even less frequently should be enough. Check the top 2-3 inches of soil to determine water needs. When dry, it is time to water. You can also check water by tipping the plant slightly. You will notice the difference in weight between a fully watered plant and a dry one. Be careful when watering dry plants as water may run off the side of the soil mass, giving the appearance of adequate water but actually leaving the root ball quite dry. An odd but effective way to water a pot is to use ice cubes. They will melt slowly and the water will be absorbed into the soil without any runoff.

Fertilizing can be done with liquid or dry fertilizer. Dry fertilizer like Citrus Mix can be applied monthly during the growing season, while liquid fertilizer can be applied during weekly waterings. Micro-nutrients are very important, including iron, zinc, and manganese. Leaf yellowing between the veins is a sign of micronutrient deficiency. Be sure to follow label instructions with any fertilizer you use. Some old timers use iron nails in the bottom of citrus pots to give a lifetime supply of elemental Iron, which is crucial for healthy Citrus Trees.


With fragrant blooms, Citrus provide more than fruit. The smell will fill your house with a delicious jasmine-like scent. Most Citrus varieties are self-fertile so only one plant is needed for fruit production. Since Citrus typically bloom in the winter, you may want to play bee and help move pollen from flower to flower. You can do this with a small brush and the appropriate buzzing sounds. Doing the bees work will ensure a large amount of fruit. Citrus fruit usually ripens the winter after flowering about 1 year later.


The best part of growing Citrus in Containers is delicious, juicy fruit! Sometimes citrus will actually overproduce. Growing grafted citrus trees ensures production in the first year. However, the best practice is to remove fruit the first and possibly the second year to allow the tree to focus on growing strong branches. If you see your plant declining or dropping leaves with lots of fruit coming on you should definitely thin to promote more vegetative growth. Set up a strong plant first before allowing it to bare substantial amounts of fruit. Some varieties are more prone to overproduction than others. For example, Improved Meyer Lemon will flower twice a year and the small fruit need to be thinned.


Outdoors, Citrus plants are usually not often bothered by pests. Indoors, the most common pests are aphids, spider mites, and scale. Thankfully, dwarf Citrus are small plants and pests can be easily controlled. Dealing with pests begins with prevention. Before moving your plants indoors, spray them well with water to remove any unwanted guests. When they are indoors, inspect your plants every time you water them. Scale is dark grey or brown and looks like a little bump on stems and trunk. Control scale by removing them with rubbing alcohol or spraying with horticultural oil at the summer rate. Spider mites live on the undersides of leaves and make very fine webs. Use Safer’s Soap or a similar spray to discourage them. Safer’s Soap and oil also work on aphids. Neem products are becoming popular for pest control. Neem can be used as a fertilizer applied to the soil or oil that you spray on plants. These all natural extracts from seeds are powerful tools to keep pest in check. Use Neem Ninja or Neem Extract for infestations.

Favorite Varieties:

Meyer Lemon – This tree is actually a hybrid of lemon and orange. The fruit has a thin, softer skin than a normal Lemon and is edible. These fruits are sweeter and less acidic than typical Lemons.

Thai Lime – The leaves are the best part and are used to flavor Thai curries and soups. The special aromatic leaves are also utilized for flavoring for processed foods and some beauty products.

Bearrs Lime – Almost as big as a lemon, Bearss Lime Citrus Tree produces abundant, greenish-yellow, seedless, and very juicy fruit. Mix the delicious juice with lemon juice for a refreshing drink. Bearss Lime ripens in late winter into spring, and it can also produce some fruit year-around.

Nordmann Seedless Kumquat – Unlike most other citrus, Nordmann Seedless Nagami Kumquats are valued for their sweet and tasty peel. This naturally dwarf and unique variety produces bumper crops of petite, bright orange, elongated fruit. An absolutely beautiful tree which is hard to find. An OGW favorite.

Cara Cara Orange – A natural mutation of Navel Orange, Cara Cara was found in in an Orange orchard in Venezuela. Similar to Washington Navel in growth habit, Cara Cara fruit is unique for its sweet, reddish pink flesh and occasionally variegated foliage.

Yuzu – Prized in Japan for flavoring the cuisine, this hardy variety bears abundant, easy-to-peel, 3-inch diameter fruit with tasty, lemon-lime-tangerine like flavor. Yuzu is reportedly hardy to 0°F.

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