- Peace Lily Repotting – Tips On Repotting A Peace Lily Plant
- Does My Peace Lily Need a New Pot?
- Steps for Repotting Peace Lily Houseplants
- Houseplants forum: Peace lily dying
- Peace Lily Propagation
- How To Care For Peace Lilies: 7 Essential Tricks And Tips For Happy Houseplants
Peace Lily Repotting – Tips On Repotting A Peace Lily Plant
Peace lily (Spathipnyllum) is happy when its roots are a little on the crowded side, but your plant will give you clear signals when it needs a little more space. Keep reading and we’ll give you the scoop on peace lily repotting.
Does My Peace Lily Need a New Pot?
Knowing when to repot a peace lily is important. If your plant is rootbound, it’s definitely time for repotting. For example, you may notice roots growing through the drainage hole or emerging on the surface of the soil. The easiest way to tell if your peace lily is rootbound is to slide the plant carefully from the pot so you can see the roots.
A severely rootbound plant is unable to absorb water because the roots are so tightly packed. The plant will wilt because even though you may water generously, liquid simply runs through the drainage hole.
If your peace lily is severely rootbound, it’s best to repot as soon as possible. If your plant can wait a little longer, spring is
the ideal time for repotting a peace lily.
Steps for Repotting Peace Lily Houseplants
Select a slightly larger pot with a diameter only 1 or 2 inches more than the current container. Avoid planting in a larger container, as the moisture retained in the excess potting soil may cause the roots to rot. Cover the drainage hole with a coffee filter or a small piece of mesh to keep potting mix from washing through the hole.
Water the peace lily an hour or two before repotting.
Place fresh potting mix in the container. Use just enough so that once repotted, the top of the plant’s root ball will be about ½ to 1 inch below the rim of the container. The goal is for the plant to sit at the same level it was situated in the old pot; burying the plant too deeply may cause the plant to rot.
Slide the peace lily carefully from its current pot. Tease the rootball gently with your fingers to release the compacted roots.
Place the peace lily in the new container. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the mix gently with your fingers.
Water lightly to settle the soil, and then add a little more potting soil, if needed. Again, it’s important to situate the plant at the same level it was planted in its old pot.
Place the plant in a shady area for a couple of days. Don’t worry if the plant looks a little bedraggled for the first few days. Slight wilting often occurs when repotting peace lily houseplants.
Withhold fertilizer for a couple of months after repotting a peace lily to give the plant time to settle into its new home.
Note: Peace lily repotting is a perfect time to divide a mature plant into new, smaller plants. Once you’ve removed the plant from its old pot, remove offshoots carefully and plant each one into a small pot filled with fresh potting mix.
Houseplants forum: Peace lily dying
Hello Dmitt89, I would just observe it some more, just let the leaves brown up and die go, cut them off.
Containers looks a bit big for it, but leave it alone, let it acclimate some more. Don’t disturb the roots anymore since you just recently repotted. As long as that container has drain holes, and excess water drains out, it should adjust. It maybe a little slow doing it, so just be patient. Do not overwater, do not apply fertilizers. Observe watering intervals, though it does like it better on the damp side. Continue to keep it warm and get filtered light access, no direct sun.
I see there is still a good chance for it. It is trying to do new leaves, so that is good. I will show you an old file photo of my Peace Lily before, it was to all extent dead, due to being exposed to prolonged dry heat and got severely dehydrated. But it eventually recovered. Though the situation is different from yours, as long as I see green, and rhizome looks okay, then there is still chance for its recovery. Good luck on your plant!
My plant is thriving now, have not done any repot since then, so level of my soil is half now than it used to. Plant still okay. I have moved it in our bathroom area, it really likes the humidity levels there. You can see how filtered the light is coming from our big window.
| Quote | Post #1914448 (4)
Houseplants need repotting every few years and spring is the time to do it.
When you think of plants covering the lush forest floor, it’s easy to imagine their roots slinking through the soil, shooting forth in their heroic hunt for water and nutrients. When we take those plants inside and put them in pots, often times their roots don’t exactly know how to obey the new confines. They keep growing and growing, winding around themselves in a tangle until the plant becomes root-bound. At that point, growth is inhibited and the plant begins to suffer.
The solution, of course, is to give them a new home. Some plants take well to tight quarters (like chives, peace lilies and ficus), but for most of them, they need to be repotted every few years – and according to The Washington Post garden columnist, Adrian Higgens, the time to do that is spring, because it’s when plants want to grow.
You can tell if a plant is root-bound when its root begin to escape from the drainage holes; or when you remove the plant and the roots look crowded and compacted. Another sign is when the plant is failing to thrive, despite otherwise favorable conditions.© Scott Lattham
The actual work of repotting a plant is pretty straightforward, but since it requires some manipulation of tender roots, it can feel a little daunting for the uninitiated. The Post created a great video that I’ve shared below; but here’s the gist:
How to repot a houseplant
Supplies: A 1″ to 2″ larger pot, potting soil, scissors or a knife.
1. Water the plant well the day before; this will lessen the stress to the plant and make the roost more pliable.
2. Remove the plant from the pot. Higgens says that if it is really root-bound, you may need to break the pot. I have never had to do that and I would hate to ruin a good pot.
3. Once you’ve liberated the plant, you need to loosen up the compacted roots. I have only ever used my fingers to gently pull and detangle, but Higgens says you may need tools. The idea is for the roots to be redirected from their pot-shaped tangle. If necessary, you can prune up to 25 percent of them. Higgens writes:
“The finer the roots, the more gentle you should be. One way to work them loose with minimum harm is to wash away the old soil with a light stream of water, preferably not ice cold.
On roots that are fine but stringy, trim them back with scissors. If they are thick and compacted, you can use a knife to score the sides. On really congested roots … you could use a sharp knife or even pruning saw to remove the bottom inch or so, and then take a three-pronged soil cultivator to liberate roots from one another and the old soil.”
4. Add some potting soil to the bottom of the larger pot, enough that when you place the plant on top of it, the top comes to the same level it was in the previous pot. Holding the plant straight with one hand, scoop in new soil with the other.
5. To remove air pockets, tap the pot along the way, press down on the top, or water to help the soil settle – and then top it off with more soil if it needs it.
6. Water, and let the plant recuperate out of direct sun for a few days. Water again when the top feels dry and resume its regular watering schedule. Don’t add fertilizer until new growth appears, which may take a few weeks.
And now, see Higgens do it in action.
For more on the many splendid benefits of plants and which houseplants to choose, see the related stories below.
Via The Washington Post
Peace Lily Propagation
Propagating a peace lily is fairly straight forward and achieved through dividing sections of the mother plant. It’s really up to you how many plants you would like to divide and grow, although the amount will depend on the size of your plant and how many crowns it has.
Check for crowns: I probably would have preferred to use a plant which had matured more, however, the lily used here has plenty of good crowns to separate. I’m only going to divide this plant into three because it’s quite young, but I could separate more.
Remove from pot: Take your mother plant out of it’s present pot by leaning the plant to the side and try to keep all the foliage together. If your plant is stuck inside the pot, tapping the side of the pot usually frees it.
Dividing: You can now divide the plant by taking a crown section away from the mother plant by hand gently, or cut sections away with a sharp knife. This lily did not need a knife used and separated easily. The crown needs to have 2 or more leaves and have roots attached to be propagated successfully.
Prepare: You have a number of plants including the mother plant that you will need to prepare for potting up. Check the roots and foliage, and remove any loose parts of the roots or leaves that have brown tips. You are now ready to pot.
Potting up: Four inch pots are a suitable size to use when potting up, and need to be filled with a peat based potting mix (well draining mix). If your soil is already very moist you wont need to water the plant, but if it’s dry then water thoroughly.
Aftercare: And, then there was three…Peace lilies enjoy bright light, a good watering and being fed once a month. You do not need to use fertilizer for the next 2 months, though.
Items and Tools Needed
- A healthy plant with crowns.
- Sharp knife or pruning shears.
- Newspaper (keeping area clean).
- 3 – 4 inch pots.
- Peat based potting soil.
- Water (maybe, if soil is not already moist).
See Peace Lily Description
and Care Advice Here “
How To Care For Peace Lilies: 7 Essential Tricks And Tips For Happy Houseplants
Here are seven tips and tricks to care for peace lilies:
- Choose a good potting soil, always use a well-draining potting mixture. Your peace lily will appreciate refreshed soil, so don’t forget to repot your houseplant annually. The best time for repotting a peace lily is spring.
- Watering is important. Keep the soil moist but do not overwater. Water when the soil is almost dry and use only room-temperature water.
- Peace lilies love warm temperatures. Keep these plants in temperatures above 65°F and protect them away from cold, drafty windows.
- Keep these houseplants in a well-lit area, but avoid direct sunlight as it may dry out the plant. If you have an east-facing window, it is the best place for your peace lily plant.
- Peace lilies like high humidity. You may mist their leaves from time to time or use a humidifier.
- No chemicals! Peace lilies don’t enjoy chemicals in tap water, so if it is possible, use filtered water.
- Fertilize cautiously. In most cases, peace lilies don’t require additional fertilizers. If you want to help your plant grow healthy, use fertilizer during the spring and summer. Don’t fertilize too often: use a balanced fertilizer only once per month.
Peace Lily needs more water, bigger pot
The leaves of this plant, which is kept indoors, are taking turns to yellow. Is this due to underwatering or lack of sunlight? I water the plant every other day, making sure that the roots are dry between watering. How do I care for this plant? Wu Xun
The plant is called the Peace Lily and its botanical name is Spathiphyllum wallisii.
The yellowing leaves appear to be those that are older and the reason may be due to the lack of water. The pot appears to be too small for the plant. The plant will dry out quickly due to the small volume of soil.
You should move the plant into a slightly larger pot and the soil should be kept moist most of the time. Allowing the root ball to dry out a little is good as it allows some air to get to the roots. The plant, however, should not be allowed to dry out totally.
Although the Peace Lily is often said to be a shade-tolerant indoor plant, it does better if it can get four to six hours of filtered sunshine daily.
Desert Rose is fruiting
This plant has been with me for a few years. This is the first time I have seen an unusual growth at the tip which is usually blooming with flowers. What is the growth? Jim Wee
The plant is commonly known as the Desert Rose (botanical name: Adenium obesum). It is grown mainly for its showy flowers and, in some specimens, its growth form, which features a swollen stem base known as a caudex.
The structure growing at the tip of a branch is the fruit of the plant. The fruit are produced in pairs.
You can wrap them using an organza bag to catch the seeds when the ripened fruit split open. The seeds have a feathery fluff that facilitates their dispersal by wind.
Clean decayed part of bonsai to prevent spread
I have a bonsai tree in my garden and the trunk is badly decayed. Is the tree dying? What can I do to save it? The tree is still fruiting occasionally. I was told it is a cherry tree. Steven Chan
The bonsai is sculpted from a plant commonly called Surinam cherry or Brazilian cherry. Its botanical name is Eugenia uniflora. Its fruits are edible when fully ripe where they turn a deep red colour.
The decayed portion of the trunk needs to cleaned out to prevent the decay from progressing.
You need to keep the area dry in the future to prevent infection and decay. The cleaned area does not need any wound sealant. Its application can do more harm than good to the plant.
Some pruning of the branches can be performed to rejuvenate the tree.
Repot Haworthia with coarse growing material
What is the name of the succulent and how do I take care of it? Can the plantlets around the sides be used for propagation? Kevin Ho
The plant is a species of Haworthia and it is most probably the Haworthia turgida.
Unlike most succulents, Haworthia is best grown under four to six hours of filtered sunlight daily. Intense sunlight can burn the leaves of this plant.
It appears that the plant is still grown in its original cocopeat-based substrate. This substrate can hold too much moisture, which can cause the roots to rot.
Most hobbyists in Singapore will carefully remove the cocopeat and repot the plant in a coarser and more well-draining growing media, such as Akadama, which is a granular, clay-like mineral, mostly used for growing bonsai.
Other popular coarse materials used to grow Haworthia include pumice and lava sand.
The young plants growing on the side of the mother plant can be removed and potted separately – do this when they are large enough to handle and when they have produced some roots on their own.
Dragon Blood Tree favoured for stately form
What plant is this? Irene Tan
The plant is botanically known as Dracaena cochinchinensis and its common name is Dragon Blood Tree. It is often sold as a large and much branched specimen. It is admired for its stately form and hence used as a focal point in outdoor gardens.
It thrives when grown under direct sunlight and in well-drained soil.
•Answers by Dr Wilson Wong, an NParks-certified practising horticulturist and park manager. He is the founder of Green Culture Singapore and an adjunct assistant professor (Food Science & Technology) at the National University of Singapore.
•Have a gardening query? E-mail it with clear, high-resolution pictures of at least 1MB, if any, and your full name to [email protected]