Repair broken tree branch

Can a half broken tomato stem heal with assistance?

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PHOTO: J. Keeler Johnson by J. Keeler Johnson May 23, 2017

Spend any time caring for fruit trees and eventually you’ll see it happen: the need for tree repair. One day, a tree is standing proud with a large crop of fruit, and the next day, a large branch has cracked under the weight, disturbing the shape of the tree and eliminating a large section of prime fruit-producing branches.

This frustrates and disappoints any orchardist, but there’s a bright spot—just because a branch is broken doesn’t mean that it will die. In fact, if the branch has simply cracked and did not detach from the tree, you might be able to save it.

Does it sound far-fetched? Perhaps, but with the right tools and supplies, you might can make it happen. I offer no guarantee that the following techniques will work for your own tree repair, but having enjoyed good luck with saving large fruit tree branches.

What You’ll Need For The Repair

Because broken branches can’t support their own weight, you’ll first need a tall stake or post to prop up the branch. I use metal stakes, which are easy to maneuver into place and install in the ground.

You’ll also need various supplies to tie the branch to the stake and support the damaged area where the branch connects to the tree. I like to use black electrical tape and large zip ties. Lastly, you’ll need something to cushion the area where the branch rests against the stake, so that the bark won’t be damaged by rubbing back and forth against the stake.

How To Fix The Branch

Before you begin the tree repair, remove the fruit from the broken branch (making the branch considerably lighter) and lift the branch back to its original height, which should seal the damaged area so well that you can hardly detect the crack. Once you’ve established the height needed to close the wound, install your stake or post so that it reaches up slightly above that height. If the stake or post isn’t tall enough, the branch will rest in place, but the wound won’t be completely closed. If you have trouble getting the stake into the right position, you can also attach an extension to the stake to raise its height.

For this purpose, I like to find an ash tree—though many types of trees will do—and cut off a forked branch approximately 1/2 inch thick. After stripping off the leaves and branches, except for the fork, place the broken fruit tree branch into the fork of the ash branch and tie the ash branch firmly to the stake. Not only does this raise the height of the stake, it also provides a softer cushion for the fruit tree branch.

Once the stake is in place, you can lightly tie the fruit tree branch to the stake to ensure that it doesn’t slip off. Then, wrap electrical tape around the area where the branch cracked, just to provide a little extra support and help seal the crack. You can also use a tree wound sealer to help repair the crack and prevent disease from infecting the tree. In any case, be sure that any zip ties, tape or rope used is not so tight as to restrict the tree and interfere with growth, which can eventually harm the tree.

In theory, if you give your tree enough time, this tree repair method will strengthen the damaged area on its own, growing new wood until the branch can support itself once again. I don’t yet have enough long-term experience with this repair method to give advice on how long this might take, but as I write this, I have two apple trees in the yard with stakes holding up damaged branches, and one has been in place for a few years without any signs of setbacks, producing abundant apples each fall. With a little effort and some luck, you can achieve the same result.

Storm and Winter Damaged Trees

Should These Trees Be Saved?

Trees and shrubs have an amazing ability to recover from storm damage or winter damage. Often, what at first glance looks devastating may not be fatal to the tree. Once the tree is dormant, it can withstand more physical damage than when it is actively growing. There are many questions you must ask before you decide the fate of the damaged tree.

To assess tree damage, homeowners should ask the following questions:

1. Before the storm damaged the tree, was the tree basically healthy, vigorous and not creating a hazard?

2. Are major limbs broken? Naturally, the larger the broken limb, the harder it becomes for the tree to recover. If a majority of the main branches are gone, the tree may have little chance of surviving and will most likely be very unhealthy, even if it does survive.

3. Has the main leader (upper trunk) been lost? This is a judgment call. If the top is broken out on most single stemmed tree species, the result is usually not very pleasing aesthetically. Of course, the remaining portion of the tree has to have a reasonable amount of live crown (foliage) area to sustain the tree. Usually a tree in this condition will develop a new leader from small branches just below the broken area. However, without some selective pruning, this “new leader” growth is generally weak, unappealing and can lead to future problems. If the trunk diameter at the point of the break is larger than one-third of the ground-line diameter, the tree probably should be removed.

4. Is at least 50 percent of the tree’s crown (branches and leaves) still intact? This is a good rule of thumb on tree survivability. A tree with less than half of its branches remaining may not be able to produce enough foliage to nourish the tree.

5. How big are the wounds where branches have been broken or bark has been damaged? Naturally, the larger the wound relative to limb size, the less likely it is to heal. A two- to three-inch wound on a 12-inch diameter limb (16-25 percent) will seal over with new bark within a couple of years.

6. Are there remaining branches that can form a new branch structure? The remaining branches will grow more vigorously as the tree tries to replace the lost foliage. Look to see if branches are in place that can eventually fill out the tree’s appearance.

7. Is the tree in a bad location? If the tree is near a power line or, as a result of the storm damage the tree is now very one-sided are heavy toward a building or structure, this may help with the decision. It may be best to remove such trees that are now a much greater threat for property damage.

Additional tips:

Big Trees Are Tough!

A mature shade tree can usually survive the loss of one or two major limbs. The broken branch should be pruned back to the branch collar (Fig. 1). If the limb broke into the trunk, so that a clean branch collar prune is not possible, some bark removal may be needed to smooth the edge of the wound. When pruning large limbs, remember to use the 3-step pruning method. See below for a link to a page explaining this.

Little Trees Are Tough!

Young trees can sustain quite a bit of damage and still recover quickly. If the central leader is intact, and the tree still has a manageable structure, remove the broken branches and let the tree recover.

Wait and See!

If a valuable tree is a borderline case and isn’t an immediate threat to cause damage, don’t make a hasty decision. It may be best to wait and see how the tree responds. Prune broken branches, give the tree a little time to recover, and then a final decision can be made.

Don’t Overdo It!

Don’t worry if the tree’s appearance isn’t perfect. With branches gone, the tree may look unbalanced or naked. You’ll be surprised how fast they will heal and grow new foliage. There is a tendency to overprune trees to balance the crown. Be conservative on the pruning…you can always remove more limbs later, but you can’t put them back!!

Don’t Add to the Shock!

Think about a dormant tree as a person under an anesthetic going into surgery to have his or her appendix removed. During the growing season, the tree is more like a person going into surgery without the anesthetic. A storm-damaged tree will be in a state of stress or shock. Make sure your tree first-aid is helping the tree and not creating more stress. After trees go dormant in the fall, they can tolerate much more physical activity with less stressful impact. Other than removing broken branches, try to wait until the trees in your area have shed their leaves to do any additional pruning for tree balance, etc. If you have a small tree that is partially uprooted, you may want to leave it in place if its roots still have soil around them. If it needs to be “replanted,” you may, again, be better off to wait till dormancy. The stress of the root damage from the move may be too much if done while the tree is actively growing. “The previous information was based Taken from the Maine Foresty website”

Tree leaves do not heal in the sense that tissue is repaired. This is because we have an immune system that actively fights disease and repairs damaged tissue. Generally speaking, plants do not respond to injury in this way. That’s why you should learn as soon as possible how to fix broken Even if the stems don’t break or snap completely, bending the plants too. Well about 4 weeks ago I bent and half-way broke the stem to one of my plants. I decided I wasn’t out nothing by trying to repair it. So I got some.

Taping And Splice Grafting Broken Plants: How To Reattach Broken Stems. There are few things more crushing than discovering your prize vine or tree has broken a stem or branch. A simple fix can allow you to repair broken climbing plants, bushes or even tree limbs. I take care of a lot of plants. And when I run out of plants, I take care of my neighbors’. Every once-in-a-while, I learn something that’s worth. You can’t fix the split leaf. Just leave it be till the leaf is past it and needs cutting off. That could be months. As the plant grows and matures the.

The stem of a tender plant can be easily damaged by high winds, heavy rains the nutrients from the water and soil to its blossoms and leaves. Looks like you have plenty of other foliage, you can either leave the leaf alone or just pull if off. Leaving the leaf on may slightly increase your plant’s infection risk. Well about 4 weeks ago I bent and half-way broke the stem to one of my plants. I decided I wasn’t out nothing by trying to repair it. So I got some.

Besides possessing healing properties, aloe vera plants are known to propagate easily with a little know-how. There are over varieties of the aloe plant;. Tree leaves do not heal in the sense that tissue is repaired. This is because we have an immune system that actively fights disease and repairs damaged tissue. Generally speaking, plants do not respond to injury in this way. soon after the transplant (i think the next day) the plant light i had had broke off the newest leaf. my banana plant was then a one leaf plant (the few days a smaller leaf shot up rather quickly to replace the other. since it was.

How To Mend A Broken Branch

Poor broken tree! Oh well, at least it’s a Bradford pear. Photo:

Faithful reader, Karen, writes, “The recent snow split one of the main branches of my crepe myrtle. Do I need to cut off that branch or can I repair it somehow? Cutting it will ruin the tree’s symmetry.”

Grumpy’s 110% Guaranteed Correct Response: Whether you can mend the broken branch or not depends on the severity of the damage and the trouble you’re willing to go to.

The first thing to determine is if the branch is still connected to the tree. If it is completely detached, your decision has been made. Throw it away and console yourself with an adult beverage.

However — if both parts of a split branch still share a decent-size strip of bark (an inch wide or more), then the branch can probably be mended. Your aim will be to gently pull together the two parts, realign the bark to the way it was, then hold the branch in place long enough for the bark to grow together and heal. This can take a couple of years.

How do you do that? That depends on the thickness and weight of the split branch. If the branch is not that heavy, you may be able to get away with pulling the sides together, wrapping the branch tightly with duct tape, and then winding some wire or twist-ties around the tape. You can further stabilize the branch by running a wire from the split branch to the trunk higher up. This takes weight off of the damaged branch.

If the branch is too heavy for the tape-and-wire treatment, you’ll have to bolt it together. Pull the split sides together, drill several holes through them, insert metal bolts in the holes, and tighten the nuts on the ends until the split branch holds together firmly. Eventually, bark will grow over the bolts and you won’t see them any more.

Don’t feel like saving the branch? Cut it off. Yes, the tree will lose some symmetry, but new branches always reach for the light, so the gap should fill in before too long.

Last Call for Crepe Murder 2016!

Image zoom emPost-traumatic mail disorder (PTMD). Photo by Carrie Trebill./em

You still have time to be a winner in Grumpy’s Crepe Murder 2016 Contest. Use the long President’s Day weekend to photograph neighborhood butchery at its worst — crepe myrtles being reduced to ugly stumps for no reason — and email the photo to [email protected] Last day to enter is February 16. Winners will receive signed copies of The New Southern Living Garden Book plus the gratification that comes with shaming the guilty.

Taping And Splice Grafting Broken Plants: How To Reattach Broken Stems

There are few things more crushing than discovering your prize vine or tree has broken a stem or branch. The instant reaction is to try some sort of plant surgery to reattach the limb, but can you reattach a severed plant stem? Fixing injured plants is possible as long as you borrow some rules from the process of grafting. This procedure is used to meld one type of plant to another, generally onto rootstocks. You can learn how to reattach broken stems on most types of plants.

Can You Reattach a Severed Plant Stem?

Once a stem or branch has broken off of the main plant, the vascular system that feeds and waters that limb is cut off. This would mean the material would die in most cases. However, if you catch it quickly, you can sometimes splice it back onto the plant and save the piece.

Splice grafting broken plants is a method that will attach the main body back onto the broken stem, allowing the exchange of important moisture and nutrients to sustain the damaged stem. A simple fix can allow you to repair broken climbing plants, bushes or even tree limbs.

How to Reattach Broken Stems

Fixing injured plants with stems that have not been completely severed is easiest. They still have some connective tissue to feed the tips of the damaged piece, which will help encourage healing and health. The process starts with a stiff support of some kind and plant tape. You are basically making a splint to hold the broken material solidly upright and then some sort of tape to bind it tightly to the healthy material.

Depending on the size of the broken piece, a dowel, pencil, or stake can be used as the stiffening object. Plant tape or even old pieces of nylon are ideal for binding the stem. Anything that expands can be used to reconnect the broken piece to the parent plant.

Splice Grafting Broken Plants

Choose a splint suitable for the size of the stem or limb. Popsicle sticks or pencils are great for smaller material. Larger tree branches require thicker wood or other hard structures to support the damaged part.

Hold the broken edges together and place the stake or splint along the edge. Wrap closely with a stretchy binding such as nylons, plant tape or even electrical tape. The binding needs to have some give so the stem can grow. Brace the stem if it is dangling so there is not additional pressure on it as it heals. This is especially important when you repair broken climbing plants.

What Happens Next?

Fixing injured plants with a splice graft is no guarantee it will survive the treatment. Watch your plant carefully and give it excellent care. In other words, baby it.

Some softer stemmed plants will not heal and the material may mold, or bacteria or fungus might have been introduced into the plant.

Thick woody stems such as tree branches may have exposed cambium which doesn’t seal and will interrupt the flow of nutrients and moisture to the damage limb, slowly killing it.

You can repair broken climbing plants like clematis, jasmine and indeterminate tomato plants. There are no promises, but you really have nothing to lose.

Try splice grafting broken plants and see if you can save damaged material and the beauty of your plant.

7 Unfortunate Plant Training Mistakes

by Nebula Haze

Table of Contents

Introduction: Most Common Plant Training Mistakes

  1. Not Training at All
  2. Breaking a Main Stem by Accident
  3. Mistakenly Keeping Plants Too Small
  4. Letting Plants Get Too Big
  5. Topping Plant Too Early (or Incorrectly)
  6. Not Securing Plants Properly
  7. Excessive Training on Sick or Slow-Growing Plants

Did you know that “training” your cannabis plants to grow many main bud sites (instead of just one) is a simple and free way to get bigger yields indoors? Plant training can increase indoor yields by 40% or more (compared to letting plants grow naturally) by forcing plants to grow bigger, denser buds, without as many smaller or airy ones.

In the vegetative stage, marijuana plants are trained to grow wide and flat, like a table

In the flowering stage, this shape ensures that many bud sites develop into long, thick colas by taking advantage of the fact that cannabis plants put the most energy into buds that are both at the top of the plant and close to the grow light.

Although plant training can produce impressive results, sometimes marijuana growers aren’t given the right information, which can cause unfortunate mistakes that hurt their yields!

With that in mind, I will cover the 7 most common marijuana plant training mistakes, so you get the yields results you want every time, even if it’s your first time!

1.) Not Training at All

In our growing forum, when I asked what people’s biggest mistakes were when it came to training their cannabis plants, the most common answer was actually growers regretted not training their plants at all!

It’s true that you can get great results without any plant training, but training techniques can significantly improve your yields compared to letting the plant grow into its natural shape. Plant training can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be, but even a little bit of effort in your plant’s early life can make a big difference to your final bud weight!

The trained plant on the right had many more main colas and produced far more bud than the untrained plant on the left, even though it took up less space

2.) Breaking a Main Stem by Accident

It’s important to use bending techniques from the beginning of a plant’s life because stems start getting stiff as they get older. Starting while the plant is still young makes the whole process go much more easily!

However, even if you’re careful, it can be easy to snap a stem by accident. This most often happens when trying to forcefully bend an older stem that has become thick and unyielding.

Nothing is better than bending when stems are flexible to get your plants to grow exactly how you want, but there are a few techniques that can help you bend over stems after they’ve already hardened!

Prevent broken stems by bending at the newest growth if possible, where stems are more flexible.

Supercropping (Advanced) – If a stem feels too stiff but it must be bent, don’t force it! Use a technique called “supercropping” to soften up the inside first, so the skin doesn’t break.

  1. Pinch the stem tightly between your fingers at the place you want it to bend
  2. Start gently wiggling the stem back and forth while also trying to crush the new joint in between your fingers.
  3. Wiggle back and forth for 10+ seconds, or until the stem has greatly loosened up at the place you want to bend.
  4. Once the stem feels loose and flexible at the joint, you’re safe to bend it over and secure it in place. This can even work with thicker stems if you’re patient enough to wiggle for a while!

Learn More About Supercropping

If you do end up breaking a main stem, you can often tape up the injury like a cast and the plant will heal itself over the next week or two.

Remember: If you do break off a main stem early in a plant’s life, it’s no big deal because there are usually dozens more growth tips to take its place! And even if you break off a main stem/cola during the flowering stage and can’t tape it up in time, it can help to remember that most growers lose a cola at some point!

3.) Mistakenly Keeping Plants Too Small

A very small plant just can’t make as much bud as a bigger plant, so keeping plants smaller than needed can reduce your yields. You will get the best yields by growing your plants so that they fill up your grow space.

Since this plant was kept so small before it started flowering, it just doesn’t have the size or infrastructure to support a lot of buds. There’s nothing a grower can do at this point to get a plant like this to yield a lot of bud. It’s important to avoid mistakenly keeping plants too small before they start making buds!

It’s important to wait until a plant is at least 3-4 weeks old before initiating the flowering stage (putting cannabis plants on a 12/12 light schedule), even if you’re trying to get to harvest as fast as possible.

This is because a plant won’t start flowering before about week 3-4 anyway, so giving plants a 12/12 light schedule before that time just reduces the total amount of light they get each day, and they won’t get as big as plants under 18/6 or a 24/0 schedule from seed.

3-4 Week Old Plant – Never switch to 12/12 earlier than this or plants will stay tiny, and waiting a few more weeks is probably better!

This plant was switched to flowering when it was 4 weeks old, and yielded about an ounce in one big cola.

Some growers recommend you wait until 6 weeks to start flowering. One reason is that cannabis plants tend to mature the fastest if they have already started showing “pre-flowers” (tiny versions of adult flowers) before initiating the flowering stage.

But the main reason is that letting the plants go just a little bit longer – to about week 6 – will give you plants that are significantly bigger and which can support bigger buds.

6-Week Old Plant That’s Been Trained to Grow Flat

After being switched to 12/12 immediately after the above picture, the plant turned into this, yielding about 6 ounces on the single plant. Two extra weeks in the vegetative stage can make a huge difference in plant size!

Note: These rules don’t apply to auto-flowering plants, which will automatically start flowering on their own without any input from you. If you want a very small plant that yields a lot, consider auto-flowering strains: they’re ready to harvest about 3 months from germination and stay small on their own! Overall, it’s much better than doing 12/12 from seed.

4.) Letting Plants Get Too Big

As we just covered, if you have the space/height for it, you’ll get better yields for your electricity by giving the plant time to get to a decent size before switching to the flowering stage.

However, if you let a plant get too big during the vegetative stage, it may completely overgrow your space!

Look at how this plant has already grown into the grow lights in the vegetative stage! This is a problem because the lights can’t be lifted up any higher in this particular grow space, and the plant is going to double in height after the switch to 12/12! This kind of crazy overgrowth can happen before you know it if you have a fast-growing plant, so stay aware of how big your plant is getting!

If plants are allowed to get too big during the vegetative stage, you’ll not only end up wasting time and electricity, you’ll also find yourself with an overcrowded grow space. Plants being too close to each other and the grow lights can cause light burn, white powdery mildew, bud rot, and other unwanted problems.

Flowering Stretch: It’s important to remember that plants often double in height (known as the “flowering stretch”) after the switch to the flowering stage, so it’s important to change to 12/12 around the time the plants have reached half the final desired height.

Pre-Stretch – Right before the switch to 12/12

Post-Stretch – 4 weeks after the switch to 12/12. Notice how much taller they got!

Learn more about the flowering stretch!

If you have a plant that’s been growing incredibly tall and lanky, with a lot of upward growth without as much side branching, consider that a plant like that may stretch up to three times its height after the switch to 12/12. A plant that tends to grow short and bushy its whole life may not stretch much at all.

Different strains will stretch a different amount after the switch to 12/12. The main clue is what the breeder says about the strain, as well as how the plant tended to grow in the vegetative stage (lanky vegetative plants often become lanky adults).

5.) Topping Plant Early or Incorrectly

Removing the top of the main stem (“topping” the plant) before it has grown at least 3-4 nodes often wastes more time than it saves.

In fact, removing any part of the plant when it’s very young can stunt the plant, meaning it may grow slowly or stop growing altogether for days or even weeks.

However, if you wait until a plant is healthy and growing fast with a good root system, it won’t even slow down after being topped! Waiting until the plant is the right size often improves your overall results from topping.

These young cannabis plants are ready to be topped

If you cut off just the very tip of your plant, there’s very little chance of stunting, even if it only has 3 or 4 nodes in total.

Many growers top down to the 3rd node/pair of leaves (like in the following picture) in order to form a short manifold. If you plan on any kind of extensive training like building a manifold, wait until the young plant has grown at least 6 nodes before starting; this ensures it has established a good root system. The more of the plant you remove at a time, the more it stresses the plant, so you want to make sure your plant is mature/strong enough to handle it!

Be careful not to damage the growth tips during topping. These tiny stems will become your new main colas, and the base of every growth tip is where buds form.

Always leave a little extra stem when topping a marijuana plant – this helps prevent the main stalk from splitting!

6.) Not Securing Your Plant Properly!

Don’t use string or anything “sharp” to secure plants, as it can start cutting into their skin over time! Also, it’s important to make sure that you can easily access all your plants after training.

Never use string to hold down your plants!

Notice how this plant can’t be moved from its location because it’s attached to a nearby wall? Don’t do this! Always attach your plant directly to the pot so you can pick it up and move it. Also, avoid using something sharp like string or chicken wire to hold down the plants, because it will slowly cut into the plant’s “skin” over time and cause damage.

Plant twist ties are perfect for securing plants! They bend into the shape you want, and are soft enough they won’t hurt plants.

Or get creative! Any type of soft flexible wire works well

Make sure to attach any twisty ties directly to the plant container; this lets you pick up and move the plant freely!

As the plant grows, whenever some of the colas are getting taller than the others…

Bend the tallest ones over until they’re all the same height as each other. Following just that one principle will produce the shape you’re looking for!

7.) Excessive Training on Sick or Slow-Growing Plants

When a cannabis plant is slow-growing or suffering from deficiencies, it is much more sensitive to stress from training. Things like topping, supercropping and extreme defoliation can all aggravate a sick plant and make it take longer to recover.

If you have a sick or slow-growing plant it’s good to give them a few days of TLC before you commence training 🙂

Always let sick plants recover before extensive training. This plant suffered from a grower accidentally giving 3x the correct amount of nutrients. It’s important to wait until it’s healthy and growing new leaves every day before doing anything else to this poor plant!

What can you do to help a cannabis plant relax for a few days?

Help plants recover quickly by moving the grow light a few inches away, and leaving the plant alone on an 18/6 light schedule (if it’s in the vegetative stage, of course, if you have a plant on a 12/12 light schedule you don’t want to change it!).

Providing relatively low levels of light in a comfortable, temperate environment without any disturbance can help a stressed plant regain its strength and start growing fast again in just a day or two. Once your plant is healthy and growing again, put the lights back on at full strength!

How far away should I keep my grow lights?

After extensive wilting from a heat spell, the grower of the plant below thought his baby was a goner. He tossed the dying plant in a bucket at the edge of his grow room, with the plan of throwing it in the garbage later that day. He somehow forgot, and a few days later he came back to find out that the comfortable temperature outside the grow tent and filtered light levels from a nearby window had been just the thing to bring the plant back to life! Even with just an inch of water at the bottom of the bucket, the plant was thriving!

Check out that plant at harvest!

At a recent growing convention in San Diego I heard from another grower who’d noticed that lowering the light levels just a tiny bit can help a sick plant recover more quickly. The worst thing you can do for a sick plant is turn up the light, because it makes the plant work harder to keep up with all that photosynthesis!

I thought a cannabis plant could come back from anything?

When people say, “It grows like a weed” and explain how cannabis plants can recover from anything, they’re talking about a healthy, fast-growing plant. You really can do almost anything to a vibrant cannabis plant in the vegetative stage and it’ll bounce right back!

For growers who always have healthy plants, it can seem like plants simply can’t get stunted. But if you take the same approach with a sick, sparse or slow-growing plant, it can dramatically slow down the plant’s growth for days or even weeks in rare cases!

Now is not the time to train this plant (or try anything new really). Wait until it has recovered first, then start training!

Whenever you’re thinking about training or removing parts of the plant, always consider the plant’s overall health first. You’ll know when you would be better served by waiting a few days to start training.

Now that you know how to prevent the 7 most common plant training problems that hurt yields…

Time to start training your plants!

Jump to….

How Many Plants Should I Grow?

7 Things I Wish Someone Had Told Me When I First Started Growing Weed

Why Are Cannabis Leaves Turning Yellow?

7 Tips to Improving Bud Quality

To Rescue or Cut Broken Orchid Leaves and Stems

It happens. You drop something on your orchid plant, or perhaps the whole pot gets knocked over or dropped. Maybe it gets damaged on the way home from the nursery, or a pet or child gets a little to inquisitive. Whatever the case, orchids survived and thrived in the wild for a long, long time, so they can’t possibly be as fragile as they seem. Here’s how to deal with broken leaves or stems with proper orchid care.

A broken leaf shouldn’t cause any harm to your Phalaenopsis orchid plant. But if you want to cut it off for display purposes, you should do it carefully. Use a sterile knife or scissor to prevent infection, and cut it a half-inch from the central stem.

If one of the flowering stems has broken, you might be tempted to wrap some tape around it and pretend it didn’t happen, but it’s not likely to stay unnoticed for long. Besides, leaving it like that invites infection, which could do a lot more damage.

Instead, cut the orchid flower spike above where it has broken, and put it in a vase with water, like you would with any cut flower. Then, remove the remaining broken flower spike down to the base of the orchid. This will encourage new flower spikes to grow.

Many orchid lovers recommend putting some cinnamon on the broken end for it’s antimicrobial properties. New blossoms may take up to a year to appear, but as long as the leaves and roots of your orchid are healthy, you will get new flowers eventually!

If you have any questions about your Just Add Ice Orchid, feel free to post it to our Orchid Care Forums!

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