Red prince weigela problems

Red Prince Weigela – Tree Form Standard

How to Grow

Weigela is not a true Tree but the Bower & Branch growers have taken this Flowering Shrub and trained it to become more of a specialty Tree. Weigela is fast growing that requires at least two prunes each year to maintain the desired shape.

Red Prince flowers in May most years. Bower & Branch likes to prune each summer when the new growth is well underway and we simply lightly shear the entire plant to shape. Each Fall before we put this to bed for the winter is when we will do a more detailed pruning as should you. To maintain a fresh looking plant remove and thin some older branches and cut the remaining branches back by up to 50%. Do not be afraid to prune this plant, it will reward you with great foliage and great blooms.

Weigela will benefit from more regular watering during the growing season. Generally fast growing plants will require higher water amounts through the season so do not be shy with water on Red Prince.

No serious pests to be concerned with but in some seasons leaf eating insects or simple aphids will enjoy the new growth as well as you. For the most part no action is required throughout the year for the success of this specialty shaped plant.

Red Prince Weigela will want to be fertilized each Spring and Fall with the Bower & Branch Ongoing Care Element Fertilizer. Simply follow the instructions on the label, there are never worries about using our Ongoing Care Fertilizer Elements and Red Prince will reward you for years to come.

Wine & Roses Weigela yellowish leaves

When half the plant shows a problem, then the actual problem could indeed be something in the roots. Not necessarily nematodes.
Have you tried fertilizing the plant? Since the side with the problem still produces flowers, but the leaves are looking poor, I would use a product that is reasonably high in nitrogen, moderate in phosphate and potassium, and has trace minerals.
Try a soil applied product that will give you fairly fast results, (Miracle grow, or similar) wait perhaps a week (in reasonably warm weather) then try a foliar applied product. Perhaps the same product, diluted and sprayed on the leaves, especially the under side. Plant leaves have special openings called stoma that can take in nutrients. There are more stoma on the bottom of the leaf in most species.
Results:
If the plant greens up with the soil/root applied ferts then there is nothing wrong with the roots of the plant, but for whatever reason the soil on that side is deficient in nutrients. I would apply a slow release complete fertilizer (including trace minerals) rake it in to the soil and mulch with some compost. You could use ‘organic’ products if you want.
If the plant does not respond to the soil applied fertilizer, but does green up when you spray the fertilizer on the leaves, there is more likely a root problem or vascular problem fairly low on the plant.
Example might be Verticilium. Nematodes can do this.
Cut off a branch that is poor. Look at the cross section where you cut it off. Is it uniformly cream-white? Or is part of it darker, perhaps tan to brown? Maybe 1/4 to 1/2 of the branch. This is typical of a plant with some sort of vascular problem. Usually a fungal or bacterial disease.
If it is all cream-white, then dig carefully into the soil and look at the roots. Start by looking near the main stem-root junction, but you may also have to work your way out along the roots. Normal roots are relatively smooth, tapering, no major lumps. Look at some pictures of Root Knot Nematode so you know what you are looking for. Several pests can produce roots like this. Nematodes are much more common in sandy soil, but can be found in all soil types.

Weigela ‘Wine & Roses’

View this plant in a garden

Category:

Shrubs

Water Requirements:

Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater

Sun Exposure:

Sun to Partial Shade

Foliage:

Deciduous

Foliage Color:

Burgundy/Maroon

Height:

36-48 in. (90-120 cm)

Spacing:

36-48 in. (90-120 cm)

Hardiness:

USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8 °C (-20 °F)

USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1 °C (-15 °F)

USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F)

USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F)

USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F)

USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F)

USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F)

USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F)

USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F)

USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)

Where to Grow:

Grow outdoors year-round in hardiness zone

Can be grown as an annual

Danger:

Unknown – Tell us

Bloom Color:

Pink

Rose/Mauve

Bloom Characteristics:

Flowers are good for cutting

This plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds

Bloom Size:

Unknown – Tell us

Bloom Time:

Late Spring/Early Summer

Other details:

Unknown – Tell us

Soil pH requirements:

5.6 to 6.0 (acidic)

Patent Information:

Patented

Propagation Methods:

From hardwood cuttings

Seed Collecting:

Unknown – Tell us

Regional

This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:

Gadsden, Alabama

Castro Valley, California

East Windsor, Connecticut

Litchfield, Connecticut

Old Lyme, Connecticut

Seymour, Connecticut

Wilmington, Delaware

Ocala, Florida

Cleveland, Georgia

Winterville, Georgia

Beecher, Illinois

Granite City, Illinois

Lake In The Hills, Illinois

Mount Prospect, Illinois

Murphysboro, Illinois

Washington, Illinois

Davenport, Iowa

Elkhart, Iowa

Richland, Iowa

Kingman, Kansas

Princeton, Kansas

Crofton, Kentucky

Eubank, Kentucky

Owensboro, Kentucky

Alfred, Maine

Bel Air, Maryland

Bushwood, Maryland

Mechanicsville, Maryland

Severn, Maryland

Wrentham, Massachusetts

Blissfield, Michigan

Royal Oak, Michigan

Temperance, Michigan

Cottage Grove, Minnesota

Kasota, Minnesota

Saint Paul, Minnesota

Victoria, Minnesota

Florence, Mississippi

Flowood, Mississippi

Saint Louis, Missouri

Omaha, Nebraska

Bedford, New Hampshire

Brick, New Jersey

New Milford, New Jersey

Pennsauken, New Jersey

Brooklyn, New York

Clifton Park, New York

Pittsford, New York

Putnam Valley, New York

Southold, New York

Belmont, North Carolina

Matthews, North Carolina

Raleigh, North Carolina

Akron, Ohio

Cleveland, Ohio

Dayton, Ohio

Fort Jennings, Ohio

Glouster, Ohio

Mansfield, Ohio

Painesville, Ohio

Edmond, Oklahoma

Hulbert, Oklahoma

Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

Albion, Pennsylvania

Collegeville, Pennsylvania

Croydon, Pennsylvania

Mercer, Pennsylvania

Monongahela, Pennsylvania

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Bluffton, South Carolina

Conway, South Carolina

North Augusta, South Carolina

Bristol, Tennessee

Kaysville, Utah

Riverton, Utah

Cambridge, Vermont

Lexington, Virginia

Oakton, Virginia

Pembroke, Virginia

Richmond, Virginia(2 reports)

Springfield, Virginia

Bonney Lake, Washington

College Place, Washington

East Port Orchard, Washington

Grand Mound, Washington

Olympia, Washington

Parkwood, Washington

Port Orchard, Washington

Prairie Ridge, Washington

Rochester, Washington

Chester, West Virginia

Hurricane, West Virginia

Appleton, Wisconsin

Menasha, Wisconsin

Muscoda, Wisconsin

West Bend, Wisconsin

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Wine & Roses Weigela Not Producing Leaves Or Flowers – Knowledgebase Question

Weigela in general tend to leaf out a bit late in the spring, but if they are all planted close together I would expect them all to be showing signs of life at the same time.
Weigela sometimes suffers some winter dieback, and the dead branch tips should be pruned away in the spring. Routine pruning should be done immediately after they bloom since they bloom on growth formed the previous year. You can also give them some compost and/or a complete fertilizer such as a granular 10-10-10 according to the label instructions in early spring and again about two months later. A year-round layer of several inches of organic mulch is also helpful. Since the plants were set out last fall, you will still need to water them to supplement natural rain fall as needed to keep the soil evenly moist but not sopping wet through this fall.
Sometimes, fall planted shrubs can suffer extra winter stress if they are not sufficiently watered during the fall while they are becoming established underground (the soil should be kept evenly moist but not sopping wet until the ground freezes), or if they were very stressed while being held over the summer in the nursery and so were just not very vigorous any more by the time you planted them. Last summer was so dry, and fall was also so dry, that this may be what happened.
You might wait a bit longer to see if they are able to sprout from the roots, but it is also possible that they are simply dead. I’m sorry about your plants.

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