Red and green succulents

Red Succulent Plants – Information About Succulents That Are Red

Red succulent plants are all the rage and most everyone’s favorite. You may have red succulents and not be aware because they are still green. Or perhaps you bought red succulents and now they’ve reverted to green. Most red succulent varieties begin with a green color and turn red from some type of stress.

Not the typical type of stress experienced by humans, plants experience stress that makes them more beautiful. These include water stress, sunlight stress, and cold stress. Let’s talk about how to safely stress your succulent and turn it red.

How to Turn a Succulent Red in the Cold

Many succulents, like Sedum Jelly Beans and Aeonium ‘Mardi Gras,’ can take cold temperatures down to 40 degrees F. (4 C.). Check for your succulent’s cold tolerance before exposing it to these temperatures. The secret to safely leaving them in temperatures this cold is keeping the soil dry. Wet soil and cold temperatures are often a recipe for disaster

in succulent plants.

Let the plant acclimate to dropping temperatures, don’t just put it out in the cold. I keep mine under a covered carport and off the ground to avoid frost. A few days of experiencing cold temperatures will make Mardi Gras and Jelly Bean leaves turn red and hold tightly to the stem. This works for making many other succulents turn red, too, but not all.

How to Make Succulents Red with Water Stress and Sunlight

Was your succulent nicely red on the edges or on many leaves and a few weeks after you brought it home, it turned green? Likely you’ve been watering it regularly and possibly not providing enough sun. Limiting water and providing more sun are other ways to stress succulents to turn red. When you’re buying a new plant, if possible, find out how much sun it was getting and how much water. Try to duplicate these conditions to keep your plant that beautiful shade of red.

And if the leaves are already green, decrease water and gradually add more sun to bring them back to the red hue. Transition slowly, beginning with bright light if you’re unsure of the plant’s previous conditions.

Care for Succulents That are Red

Make all these changes gradually, keeping an eye on each plant to make sure it is not getting too much sun, too much cold or not enough water. If you observe regularly, you’ll be able to note both healthy and unhealthy changes before you do harm to the plant. Research your specimens so you’ll know what to expect.

Keep in mind, not all succulents will turn red. Some will turn blue, yellow, white, pink, and deep burgundy, depending upon their internal coloration. Most succulents, however, can be stressed to intensify their color.

Indoor succulent gardens are fun and easy to make. In this post, I will show you exactly how to make your own, with detailed step-by-step instructions.

I love combining my succulents into miniature indoor gardens! They have shallow roots, so they are perfect for planting in mixed containers.

Plus, combining a bunch of small succulent plants into one pot makes them easier to care for. It means less watering, and less maintenance! I’m all for making life easier.

Below I am going to show you step-by-step how to create small succulent arrangements for displaying in your home, or to give away as gifts.

Choosing What Succulents To Plant Together

There are tons of different types of succulent plants. They come in just about any shape, size and color.

You can order them online, find small ones for sale at your local garden center, or you can use ones you already have. Heck, you could even propagate succulent cuttings from your own collection, and use those.

Wherever they come from, be sure to choose a good variety of colorful succulents, ones with variegated leaves, as well as various shapes and sizes. This helps to add tons of depth and color to your mixed arrangement.

The number of plants you choose to grow in your DIY mini succulent garden depends on what you like. You’re only limited by the size of your container.

To help get you started, I recommend choosing one tall plant (the focal point/thriller), a couple of shorter ones (fillers), and at least one that cascades over the side of the pot (spillers).

The plants I’ve chosen for my indoor succulent garden are: (top left to bottom right) rat tail cactus, aeonium, aloe (the red one on the right), haworthia, and echeveria.

Mini succulents for my indoor container garden

Best Container For Making An Indoor Succulent Garden

You can choose any decorative container you want. However, I highly, highly recommend using ones that has drainage holes in the bottom.

Succulents will not tolerate wet soil for long, and the holes will help to prevent overwatering.

If the container you want to use doesn’t have holes in the bottom, you can easily drill a few into the bottom yourself (be sure to use a masonry bit for clay or ceramic pots).

Drilling drainage hole in succulent planter

For this project, I chose to use a large terracotta bowl that I had on hand. Clay pots are wonderful for succulents, and I use them whenever I can.

The reason terracotta pots are my preferred choice is because they absorb moisture, and help the soil dry out quicker. Which is exactly what you want for your indoor succulent garden.

If you don’t like the look of the plain ones, learn how to paint terracotta pots here.

Using a terracotta bowl for my indoor succulent planter

How To Make An Indoor Succulent Garden

Now that you’ve picked out the container and plants for your DIY indoor succulent garden, it’s time to put everything together. Here’s what you’ll need…

Supplies Needed:

  • Decorative container with drainage holes
  • Succulent plants (here’s a great online source)
  • Succulent soil
  • Decorative rock (optional)
  • Drainage netting (optional)

Rather than buying potting soil and rock separately, you could start with a succulent planter soil kit, which makes creating your dish garden a snap!

Steps To Make Your Own Succulent Planter

Step 1: Cover the holes and add soil – If the holes in the bottom of your planter are large, then you should cover them with drainage netting before adding soil.

This will keep the soil from washing out of the holes, but still allow the water to drain. A piece of window screen or landscaping fabric would also work, if you have some on hand.

Next, fill the container about half full with soil. You can buy the pre-made stuff, or you can make your own succulent soil using my recipe.

Fill container half full with succulent soil

Step 2: Add your focal plant – The first thing you should add to your DIY miniature succulent garden is the focal plant (the tallest one).

Depending on how your arrangement will be displayed, you can put it in the center, if the garden will be viewed from all sides. Or you can put the tallest plant in the back of the container, if the display will only be seen from the front.

Tip: Instead of centering your focal plant, moving it slightly off to one side sometimes adds more interest.

Add tall focal succulent plant first

Step 3: Add the filler plants – After you figure out where you want your focal plant in your container, add the filler plants around it. These will be the bulk of the arrangement, so they will take up the most space.

While you play around with different placements, just set the plants on top of the soil for now. This will to help you figure out the best design for your indoor succulent garden.

Nothing is permanent at this point. So take your time, and move things around until you are happy with it.

Add the filler plants to your succulent garden

Step 4: Add the cascading plant(s) – Last, add the cascading plants around the outside of your succulent planter.

These should spill out over the top of the container, adding a whole new dimension to your small succulent garden. You can add one or several of them, depending on what you like, and how large your container is.

Last add the cascading succulent plants

Step 5: Fill container with soil – Once you have all of your succulents placed in your container, fill the spaces between them with soil, gently packing it in place as you work

If you plan to add decorative rock to your indoor succulent garden (seen in step 6), leave about a half to one inch of space between the top of the soil and the top of the planter.

Water the container, and allow the soil to settle. Fill in any gaps or holes that form with more dirt as necessary.

Finish filling the container with soil

Step 6: Add decorative rock to your succulent dish garden (optional) – Once the potting soil has settled, you can add decorative rock over the top for a nice finishing touch.

I chose to use a multi-colored aquarium rock for mine, but you could use black river rock if you want to create more of a zen garden look.

This step is totally optional, but I always add cover rocks to my indoor succulent gardens. Not only does it look nice, it helps to keep the soil from washing out when I water it.

Add decorative rock to your succulent dish garden

Indoor Succulent Garden Care Tips

Once you’re done creating your tabletop succulent garden, it’s important to know how to care for it. Here are a few tips…

  • Put it in a sunny window, succulents like to have lots of light. If any of them start to grow leggy, add a grow light.
  • Do not overwater. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. If you have issues with giving your plants the correct amount of water, I recommend getting a soil moisture gauge to make it easier.
  • Never leave your succulent planter sitting in water. Allow the excess to drain completely, then dump it from the tray the pot is sitting on.
  • Use a natural, organic fertilizer. I use (and highly recommend) organic succulent fertilizer or a compost solution – they work better than chemical fertilizers, and are much healthier for the environment.

If you want to learn more, read my comprehensive Succulent Plant Care Guide.

My DIY tabletop succulent garden

Creating an indoor succulent garden is fun, and it’s a great way to display your collection. I will warn you though, it is very addicting! At last count, I think I had over 15 of them! Oops! They make wonderful gifts though, so at least you’ll know what to do with all the extras.

If you struggle to keep indoor plants alive during the winter, then my Winter Houseplant Care eBook is just what you need. It will teach you all you need in order to grow healthy houseplants all year round! .

Recommended Books On Succulents

  • Indoor Plant Decor: The Design Stylebook for Houseplants
  • Plant by Numbers: 50 Houseplant Combinations to Decorate Your Space
  • Growing Succulents Indoors
  • Succulents Simplified: Growing, Designing, and Crafting with 100 Easy-Care Varieties

Recommended Products

More Posts About Growing Succulents

  • Gritty Succulent Soil Mix Makes Growing Succulents A Snap!
  • How To Propagate Succulents In Winter
  • Succulent Frame Art Care And Growing Tips
  • How To Care For A Jade Plant
  • The Ultimate Guide To Aloe Vera Plant Care

Share your tips and ideas for how to make an indoor succulent garden in the comments section below.

Succulent Terrariums


It’s easy to see why the popularity of succulents has skyrocketed in recent years. The plants look modern and require little maintenance—just several hours of sun and not too much water. There are many succulents that can thrive in your indoor space. From petite-sized hens-and-chicks succulents to sprawling jade plants, you have many options to choose from. When choosing a succulent for your new terrarium, there are a few things to consider: What kind of light does the succulent require to thrive? How will it grow in size? And, most importantly, can it successfully be transferred or replanted into a terrarium?

For the purpose of this project, it’s recommended to choose one of the following succulent varieties: Aloe marlothii, which features thick leaves and three-inch orange spikes of flowers; Cotyledon orbiculata, distinguished by its red bell-shaped flowers; Crassula lycopodioides, a taller lime-green variety that grows vertically; Echeveria, featuring mini rosettes of blue-grey leaves; the Chinese Dunce Cap, which forms tiny rosettes form spires as it grows; and Voodoo succulents, recognizable for its 6-inch rosy-red flower heads. If you already have succulents growing at home, you can use the cuttings to plant new ones. Propagation is the process of growing new plants from clippings or other parts of the succulent—the varieties mentioned here are known to propagate pretty easily. When choosing a glass container to house them in, look for one with a wide opening to prevent accumulation of moisture. Remember that these desert and dry-climate natives never want to stay soggy, so soil with a healthy amount of drainage is a must. If mixing your own soil for succulents, follow this formula: four parts all-purpose soil mix, five parts perlite, and one part coarse sand.

Care Tips

Once the plants are situated, keep them indoors and out of direct sunlight. These desert plants require only a drop of water every two weeks or so. The water should be able to drain to the bottom. After watering, there shouldn’t be more than an inch of water visible in the gravel located in the bottom of the terrarium. Fertilize your terrarium twice a month, but only through the summer months, from May to September—here are five tips to finding and using healthy fertilizer. Be sure to use only half the fertilizer indicated in the box’s instructions every other watering, which is once a month.

Help! What’s Wrong With My Succulent?

Common signs of distress and health in succulents

For succulent newbies, it can be difficult to get a good read on the health of your plant. Here are our top ‘red flags’ that something is off, along with a few common indications that your succulent is actually, well, totally normal.

If anything seems out of the ordinary for your plant babes, read on!

5 Common Red Flags

1. Mushy, yellow leaves that fall off easily; soil that won’t fully dry

Diagnosis: Over-watered succulent


There’s not a whole lot that can be done with over-watered succulents, unfortunately. Here are a couple last-ditch efforts that may help:

  1. Repot your succulent in dry cactus soil immediately. If you notice your succulents’ leaves are getting mushy and yellow, gently remove it from its pot and crumble away much of the soil clinging to its roots. Then repot it in new, dry cactus soil and do not water for at least a few weeks. The idea here is to keep the roots from soaking up any more moisture from the soil.
  2. You can also try beheading your succulent. Yep, we said it. Cut that succ-er off from its roots, then treat it as a cutting. Discard the roots and lower part of the stem, and let the top sit out for a few days before nestling back in dry cactus soil. Wait a week, then water very lightly (just enough to dampen the topsoil) once a week for about 3-5 weeks. During this time, new roots will grow. The idea here is to keep the top of the stem and leaves from soaking up any more moisture from the roots.


  1. Remember, over-watering is hard for succulents to come back from, so try to catch it early and err on the side of under-watering!
  2. If you’re a rookie succulent parent, a shallow pot with drainage holes will be your absolute BEST friend when it comes to never losing succulents to over-watering.
  3. Use cactus soil when repotting your succulents. Cactus soil is easy to find; it’s usually sold your local gardening store along with the other potting soils. It is specially formulated for extra drainage and to keep your succulents from getting too water-logged.
  4. Let it shine! If you notice that, even when you wait a couple of weeks between watering, the soil still seems damp, it may be that your succulent isn’t getting enough sunlight. For soil to fully dry, it needs light. If your windowsill isn’t doing the trick, snagging a grow light might be in your best interest! Check out our blog post on how to winter-proof your plants (specifically the grow light section!)
  5. Check out our quick video on how to water your succulents without killing them!

2. Wilted or shriveled succulents; rubbery leaves that bend easily and feel thin

Diagnosis: Under-watered succulents


  1. Add more water! First, give your succulent a good soak (until water comes out of the drainage holes), then wait a few days and give it another.
  2. Second, don’t over-correct! Just decrease the days in between watering one by one until your plant seems happy. If you were watering once every 14 days, try every 12 or 13. If it still seems rubbery, thin, and wrinkled, try every ten days.
  1. Make sure you’re soaking your succulent with each watering, not just spraying them or getting the top of the soil wet.

3. Large gaps between the leaves of a succulent

Diagnosis: Stretching due to lack of sunlight

While you can’t reverse the effects of stretching, you can take a ‘re-do’! You’ll need some scissors, a new pot with cactus soil, and a propagation tray (optional).

  1. Cut off the top of the succulent (above where it’s started stretching) and set it out for a few days until the stem calluses over. This is a new succulent, called a cutting.
  2. Once the stem of the cutting has callused, nestle it into a new pot with dry cactus soil. Water very lightly once a week for 4-5 weeks as new roots begin growing. BAM! You’ve got a new succulent.
  3. As for the stump, you can either propagate any remaining leaves or you can leave them on the stump, which will eventually grow new stems and new leaves with regular care.
  4. To propagate the leaves, gently twist and pull them off the remaining stem, lay ’em on a tray of cactus soil, and spritz them lightly with water every other day. They’ll eventually grow roots and a rosette, and after a few weeks you can repot them! More on propagation here.

Make sure your succulents are getting at least 6-8 hours of bright, indirect sunlight a day. A south or west-facing windowsill is a perfect spot for ’em!

4. Brown/black splotches on the tops of the leaves

Diagnosis: Sunburn

Unfortunately, there’s not one. Move your succulent to a place a bit shadier, then let it do it’s thing. It’ll eventually grow out of the sunburned leaves by shedding them and growing new ones.


  1. Young succulents need bright but indirect sunlight to avoid sunburn
  2. Many succulents can eventually handle and even appreciate direct sunlight, but introduction is the key! Move your succulent into direct sunlight slowly, adding an hour in direct sunlight every day or two. After a week or two, your succulent will be able to tolerate full sun. If you start to see any signs of sun damage, reverse this process until you find a sweet spot.

5. White, cobweb-y bugs and nests

Diagnosis: Mealybug infestation

  1. First, quarantine your succulent! Mealybugs spread quickly.
  2. Spray your succulent with isopropyl alcohol (70%, available at drug stores)
  3. Lastly, use a cotton swab to gently remove the mealybugs from the succulent
  1. Mealybugs love damp soil, so make sure your succulents are planted with well-draining soil in pots with drainage holes

3 Common Green Flags Disguised as Red Flags

1. Color Change

A change in color is not always a cause for concern! In fact, many succulents will exhibit richer, more vibrant colors when introduced to brighter, more prolonged sunlight in spring and summer. (If your succulent is turning brown, however, there’s a problem.) Once winter rolls around, it is not uncommon for succulents to take on a more pale hue. This is natural when a succulent goes dormant, and it doesn’t mean they are unhealthy, just adapting to the weather!

2. Dead Leaves

Succulents grow from the center out. To make room for new, healthy leaves, it’s normal for the bottom leaves of your succulents to die. Just prune them by gently pulling them off the stem and disposing of them. As long as the leaves in the center look happy and healthy and it’s only the bottom leaves shedding, this is a sign your succulent is thriving!

* If all the leaves are falling off, or if they turn yellow and mushy rather than drying out, this is a good indicator your plant is being over-watered!

3. Slow Growth

Some succulents are naturally slow-growing! It doesn’t mean they’re unhealthy or you’re doing anything wrong.

*If your succulent hasn’t grown at all, consider elements like sunshine and water to make sure you’re providing a good environment for natural growth.

Still not sure what’s going on with your succulent? Give us a shout!

[email protected]

Cactus and Succulents forum: My succulent is turning bright red/orange???

I don’t know how tarev came to the conclusion your plant is overwatered but it will be much easier to care for in a container with holes at the bottom. The rocks in there are not doing much for you unless they are the size of fine gravel and mixed in evenly with the soil.
The issues related to water concern two things. First, it’s really hard to water to saturation (what you should aim for) when you can’t water until it comes out the holes in the bottom. There is a real danger that if you attempt to water well, it will pool in a lake at the bottom of the container, and persist, causing rot. Most likely you are not watering enough when you do water, if I had to guess.
The second water issue relates to when the soil dries out, which is when you want to water… In a closed system with a narrow neck it may take longer to dry out. Be aware that the surface layer will dry out much faster than the soil at depth, which is what matters, and if you are unable to get a sense of when that is, you may end up watering more or less often than necessary. A regular wide mouthed pot gives the soil lots of surface area to evaporate and gives you easy access to put your finger (or a bamboo chopstick or a moisture meter) in to check the moisture.
Watering once a week may be fine if the plant is getting strong light and the soil is exposed and able to evaporate. It’s hard to specify an ideal time interval from a distance because it very much depends on local conditions. You want the soil to be going dry when you water, but there is no advantage at all in leaving the soil bone dry for any extended length of time. You will need to water more often in hot, dry, bright conditions compared to cool, humid, cloudy ones. More often in summer than winter, probably.
Hopefully that makes sense.

| Quote | Post #1547430 (5)

Jade plants (Crassula ovata) are some of the easiest to grow and hardiest houseplants making them the perfect choice for the beginner or lazy indoor gardener. However, if you start to see your jade plant turning red it can leave you wondering what’s wrong with it and what you need to do to fix the problem.

Why Is My Jade Plant Turning Red? Several factors naturally influence a Jade plant turning red, including extremes of heat, excess sunlight, lack of water or nutrients. There are also a number of cultivars that naturally have red leaves.

Although this red color change is often harmless, there are some important things to watch for to keep your jade plant in good health. Continue reading to learn why Jade plants turn red, as well as tips to keep your jade plant thriving.

I’ve also written a detailed care guide to growing jade plants, so if you have any other questions about keeping your jade plant healthy, this is likely to be very useful.

Ornamental Features Of Jade Plants

Jade plants are members of the Crassulaceae family and native to desert regions of South Africa. Dutch settlers introduced the succulent to Europe over 100 years ago and it is still considered a favorite plant for indoor spaces.

Their continued popularity is mainly due to a Jade plant’s hardiness and not being drama queens when it comes to their care. In addition, Jade plants add an attractive and unique appeal as indoor specimens and are popular Bonsai plants.

In its native environment, Jade plants can grow up to 10 feet tall and wide, with trunks the size of a torso and large limbs covered in the fleshy green and oval succulent leaves that can grow ¼-inch thick.

Although it grows slowly, over time a properly cared for Jade plant can still grow up to 6 feet tall indoors and plants have been known to live over 100 years, so expect it to grace your indoors with its presence for years to come.

When grown indoors Jade plants rarely bloom, but when situated in a continuously warm and sunny environment, clusters of white to pink star-shaped flowers bloom in winter.

Don’t stress if yours never flowers, as most indoor conditions don’t produce the continuous amount of warmth and sunlight required for the production of blooms. In addition, even when grown outdoors in preferred conditions, your Jade plant may bloom rarely or never.

Jade Plant Turning Red Due To Natural Conditions

Extreme environmental conditions aren’t necessarily a bad thing for your Jade plant to experience and the foliage turning red doesn’t mean your plant is suffering.

One must remember that Jade plants are succulents native to dry, arid regions where they thrive on the harsh conditions that are inhospitable to most plants.

These harsh conditions usually include intense sunlight, heat, lack of soil fertility and water. In fact, Jade plants actually look and perform their very best when not pampered and taking on a reddish color is perfectly normal. This is why they make such perfect plants for black thumb gardeners – they thrive on neglect.

If you notice your Jade plant starting to take on hues of red, it’s time to put on your detective hat and pay attention to any environmental changes that are happening. More than likely, your Jade plant is experiencing one or more of the following conditions that promote redness:

  • Jade plants receiving an extreme amount of sunlight take on a red color.
  • Jade plant foliage can change to red with really hot or cold temperature changes like those during summer and winter.
  • Reducing the frequency of water applications causes the Jade plant to lose some of its deep green coloring and changing colors include red.
  • Withholding fertilizer feedings causes the Jade plant to take on a reddish color.
  • A jade plant turning red can be due to it growing in soil lacking nutrients and withholding fertilizer.

If your Jade plant’s foliage is taking on a reddish color but still looks healthy and is growing well, don’t stress because all is well. It’s only doing what it was created to do to survive in nature – thrive in less than ideal conditions where water and nutrients are at a premium. One of those naturally occurring elements of change is the Jade plant taking on a reddish coloration to its leaves.

Insect Problems Causing Red Leaves

While a Jade plant experiencing good environmental changes will grace you with its colorful red tinged foliage and robust and healthy growth, not all changes to red should be ignored.

Spider mites are tiny sap-sucking pests and houseplants seem to be quite susceptible to them, including Jade plants. You can usually identify a problem as the insects spin a fine webbing over the Jade plant.

If you notice the leaves misshapen, and tiny red spots on the leaves and stems, you probably have a spider mite problem. These pests can quickly travel to your other indoor plants, causing even a bigger headache, so quick action is best.

Use an insecticidal soap or neem and spray the entire Jade plant, making sure to get both sides of the leaves. Always follow product directions on mixing amounts and frequency of application.

Controlling The Amount Of Red On Your Jade Plant

You can actually control the amount of red your Jade plant’s foliage will develop by controlling the amount of light, water and nutrients it receives. However, there’s nothing wrong if you prefer your Jade plant’s leaves to remain glossy and deep green and this is achieved by controlling the conditions.

  • Maximum Greenness: Grow in a fertile, well-drained potting mix, feed monthly with a half-strength houseplant fertilizer and situate the Jade plant in medium, indirect light conditions. Water when the soil becomes dry.
  • Reddish Leaf Tips: Grow in a fertile, well-drained potting mix or less fertile cactus blend and place in a partially sunny location. Cut back on the frequency of water applications.
  • Maximum Redness:To achieve the maximum amount of redness on your Jade plant’s foliage you should grow it in less fertile soil and place in a location that receives direct sunlight throughout the day. The more sun it receives and the less fertility in the soil, results in redder foliage. Allowing the soil to remain dry for a longer period also promotes the reddening of the foliage.

When To Worry About Your Jade Plant Turning Red

Most of the time a Jade plant turning red is just a natural occurrence and there’s absolutely nothing to worry about, especially if it looks healthy. However, if it starts looking sick and isn’t growing at its best, you need to analyze the situation and help your Jade plant back to the land of the living.

If spider mites aren’t the problem or you’ve treated them and the Jade plant still looks sickly, perhaps, it’s been neglected a bit too much for its own good.

Here are a few common problems that I have covered in other articles.

  • Why do jade plants get white spots and how to fix it?
  • How to identify, treat and prevent jade plant overwatering.
  • Why do jade plants drop leaves and how to prevent it?

Jade plants have a natural tolerance to drought conditions and withholding water will cause the leaves to develop a red coloration. However, being tolerant to drought and growing in a container doesn’t mean the plant can live for months upon months without a drink and not have it negatively affect its health and performance.

If you start noticing your Jade plant’s leaves starting to lose their girth, gloss and start looking shriveled, it’s suffering from lack of water. If the plant is left for a long time in this state, it can suffer leaf drop and the branches will start to dry up and die, especially if conditions are hot. You can even lose the entire plant.

Depending on the condition of the soil, you might want to repot the Jade plant into fresh, well-drained soil and water thoroughly. Water when the top several inches of soil feels dry and you should start seeing the foliage returning to a healthier state after several weeks.

Even if you are trying to achieve foliage redness through withholding water, it’s still best to give the Jade plant a thorough drink every three weeks or even sooner if you start noticing the leaves wanting to shrivel.

Naturally Red Jade Plants

Although extreme cultural conditions can cause any type of Jade plant to take on hues of red, there are types that naturally produce red foliage, regardless of the conditions the plant is residing in. However, you are most likely to find the common Jade plant at your local plant nurseries sporting thick, green oval leaves and stout brown limbs.

You can usually locate different varieties of Jade plants, even those producing red leaves through online plant sellers dealing in succulents. Regardless of the variety, all types of Jade plants require the same care and conditions for good growth.

Types of Jade plants with naturally reddish leaves include:

  • Hobbit Jade (Crassula ovata convoluta ‘Hobbit’): This slow-growing jade matures to around 3 feet tall, with tubular leaves with reddish tips.
  • Red Jade Tree (Crassula ovata ‘California Red Tip’): When grown in full sun or bright light, the tips of the leaves take on a purplish-red hue.
  • Tricolor Jade (Crassula ovata ‘Tricolor’): This jade’s leaves are more pointed than oval and the foliage is variegated in white, green and rose.

(Crassula ovata convoluta ‘Hobbit’) Source By Anne Jea

Basic Care

Jade plants are one of the least fussy houseplants and their maintenance is minimal for healthy growth. They are not finicky about their soil or its fertility as long as it drains very well.

The plant will rot and die if grown in soggy conditions or if it is overwatered, so it’s only necessary to water when the top several inches of soil become dry.

When it comes to light conditions, Jade plants grow well in everything from full-sun to medium indirect light and if indoor temperatures are comfortable for you, it’s comfortable for the Jade plant.

Remember, if your Jade plant’s leaves start developing a reddish tinge and it’s happy, sit back and enjoy the chameleon effects because the color change is normal.

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