- Making And Using Rabbit Manure Compost
- Rabbit Manure Fertilizer
- Rabbit Manure Compost
- Rabbit Manure in the Garden
- Rise and Shine Rabbitry
- Bunny honey: Using rabbit manure as a fertilizer
- RABBIT PROBLEMS AROUND THE HOME ^
- RABBITS DAMAGE LAWNS AND TREES
- HOW TO KEEP RABBITS OUT OF THE YARD
- APPLY PREDATOR URINE ALONG PROPERTY BORDERS
- BEST BAD TASTING REPELLENT FOR LAWN AND GARDEN
- SOUND REPELLER TO REPEL RABBITS
- HOW TO TRAP NUISANCE RABBIT
- BEST RABBIT LIVE TRAP
- Tips for Repelling Rabbits
- Are Rabbit Droppings Harmful To Humans?
- Is Rabbit Poop Harmful?
- Is Rabbit Poop Good Manure for the Garden?
- Rabbit Manure NPK Values vs. Other Manures
- How To Use Rabbit Poop In Your Garden
- How Much Rabbit Manure Can I Use In My Garden?
Making And Using Rabbit Manure Compost
If you’re looking for a good organic fertilizer for the garden, then you might want to consider using rabbit manure. Garden plants respond well to this type of fertilizer, especially when it’s been composted.
Rabbit Manure Fertilizer
Rabbit dung is dry, odorless, and in pellet form, making it suitable for direct use in the garden. Since rabbit dung breaks down quickly, there is usually little threat of burning the roots of plants. Rabbit manure fertilizer is rich in nitrogen and phosphorus, nutrients that plants need for healthy growth.
Rabbit manure can be found in prepackaged bags or obtained from rabbit farmers. Although it can be spread directly onto garden beds, many people prefer to compost rabbit manure prior to use.
Rabbit Manure Compost
For additional growing power, add some rabbit dung to the compost pile. Composting rabbit manure is an easy process and the end result will be the ideal fertilizer for garden plants and crops. Simply add your rabbit manure to the compost bin or pile and then add in equal amounts of straw and wood shavings. You can also mix in some grass clippings, leaves, and kitchen scraps (peelings, lettuce, coffee grounds, etc.). Mix the pile thoroughly with a pitchfork, then take a hose and moisten but do not saturate the compost pile. Cover the pile with a tarp and keep it turned every two weeks or so, watering afterwards and covering again to maintain heat and humidity levels. Continue adding to the pile, turning the compost and watering until the pile is fully composted.
This may take anywhere from a few months to a year, depending on the size of your compost pile and any other influencing factors like heat. You can add in some earthworms or entice them with coffee grounds to help speed up the decomposition process.
Using rabbit manure compost in the garden is a great way to give plants the boost of nutrients they need for strong growth. With composted rabbit manure fertilizer, there’s no threat of burning plants. It’s safe to use on any plant, and it’s easy to apply.
Rabbit Manure in the Garden
Anyone who comes within a few yards of my garden gets to discuss rabbit poop and its many gardening benefits – whether they want to or not. I’m determined to spread the bunny-gospel.
There’s just no poop that works as well for the garden as rabbit poop. It has all the uber-benefits of horse and steer manure but with a distinct advantage. Because it’s considered a “cold” manure, you don’t have to let rabbit poop age or compost before you use it. Other manures that come from chickens, sheep, horse, cows, and pigs or “hot” manures, need to be composted for months before you can safely use them or you’ll burn your little plant darlings to death. Not so with rabbit poop.
Rabbit Pellets as a Super Fertilizer
Grab a handful from under the rabbit cage and spread it all over the garden. I like to think of them as time release capsules, as the pellets don’t completely break down right away. It’s slow-release thing. If the pellets are urine-soaked, (which they usually aren’t) you can let them dry out a bit or just fold them into a couple inches of soil.
As they do break down, they build your soil’s structure, improve the porosity, add stability, and hold nutrients for plants as well as other organisms in the soil. And I haven’t even mentioned how much red wigglers love rabbit poop! (Don’t even get me going on the benefits of red worms in your garden.)
There are two schools of thought on applying rabbit manure to the garden. Some gardeners are cautious about potential pathogens and prefer to toss them onto the compost pile as a precaution. For some, adding poop to your veggie garden sounds (on some level) suspect.
I’ll be honest, I haven’t heard of there ever being a problem – but it’s worth mentioning especially if you’re adding them to a vegetable garden. Then there are those gardeners that apply the rabbit pellets directly to the garden without a second thought. This is one of my practices; but I’m daring like that.
Another great way to take advantage of rabbit pellets and all their growing goodness is to make “bunny brew” or rabbit compost tea. Find a five gallon bucket, and a large scoop of rabbit pellets and drop them into the bucket. Give it a good stir every now and again for a day or two.
Let the manure settle and use the tea at the top of the bucket to water your plants. You can dump the remaining manure at the bottom of the bucket onto your compost pile (no waste here). Of course, the proper English way would be to use a big piece of muslin or burlap and make a big tea bag and let it dangle into the bucket.
Rabbit Manure in Compost
Oh my. If I gave you an earful on the virtues of rabbit poop in the garden, then you have to know that this goes double for the compost pile. If you can get your hands on even a small pail of rabbit poop every once in a while, you’ll be in nitrogen heaven as far as composting goes. Bunny gold is nitrogen on steroids; it really gets a pile going. If you have rabbits, you’ll never be at a loss for a green (nitrogen) source for your compost pile.
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Rise and Shine Rabbitry
Anyone who comes to the rabbitry and my homestead will see our many gardens. I have been asked many times what is your secret. You must use miracle grow they say. I just chuckle, thinking they just opened up a can of worms, and worms love rabbit manure! And now they are going to hear it! Now they get to discuss all about rabbits any there purpose on the homestead, the conversation will start about the many benefits and uses of rabbit manure, but more will come. I am determined to spread the word of raising rabbits, and all the many benefits that go with it. That’s how I came up with our slogan – Raising Meat Rabbits To Save The World!
Rabbit manure is one of the best manures for your organic gardens! It will increase poor soil by improving soil structure and also improving the life cycle of the beneficial microorganisms in the soil. Rabbits are very good at producing an excellent source of manure. It is rich in many nutrients and very simple to use. One doe and her offspring will produce over one ton of manure in a year.
Rabbit manure is packed with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and many minerals, lots of micro-nutrients, plus many other beneficial trace elements such as calcium, magnesium, boron, zinc, manganese, sulfur, copper, and cobalt just to name a few.
Nitrogen(N)- Rabbit manure is higher in nitrogen than sheep, goat, pig, chicken, cow or horse manure. Plants need nitrogen to produce a lush green growth. Nitrogen helps plants grow greener and stronger helping the plant reach its full potential. This is great for all those quick growing salad greens! Great for the early growth of tomatoes, corn, and many other vegetables.
Phosphorus(P)- Rabbit manure is also higher in phosphorus than the other manures. It helps with the transformation of solar energy to chemical energy. Which in turn helps with proper plant growth. Phosphorus also helps plants to withstand stress. Phosphorus in the soil encourages more and bigger blossoms helping with flowering and fruiting also great for root growth.
Potassium(K)- Potassium helps with fruit quality and reduction of disease plants will not grow without it. Plants use potassium as an enzyme to produce proteins and sugars.They also uses potassium to control water content.
More than just the awsome NPK values of rabbit manure it is loaded with a host of micro-nutrients as well as organic matter that improves soil structure, drainage, and moisture retention. Vegetable gardens, pastures, and flower gardens all will benefit from using rabbit manure. It helps retain soil moisture and soil structure.
Rabbit manure is one of the few fertilizers that will not burn your plants when added directly to the garden and can be safely used on food plants.
Grab a handful from under the hutch and use it as is, or work it into the topsoil. Rabbit manure at first glance many seem to be less powerful than commercial fertilizers but in reality they are better and healthier for your garden providing food and nourishment for your plants as well as earthworms and other beneficial animals and microorganisms in your soil. So why use chemical additives that are know to kill all soil life. Some manures have to be aged so they do not harm your garden, Bunny Berries can be used fresh as is. This is also a very organic way to add nutrients back to you soil.
HOW TO USE-
Use It As Is – “Bunny Berries” – Because rabbit manure is dry,odorless,and in pellet form makes it suitable for direct use in the garden. It can be applied any time of the year and helps give your plants a boost during the growing season or as a storehouse of nutrients when applied in the late fall and winter. Because it is considered a cold manure there is no threat of burning plants and roots. So use it as a top- dressing, mulch around plants, bury in the ground under transplants or just working it into the soil right from the rabbit. This is the easiest way to use your Super fertilizer! Grab a handful and add it to your garden today. The Berries are a time release capsule of goodness for your soil. This is the way i use it the most in my gardens, so the next time you find yourself knee deep in rabbit poop just add it to your garden!
Compost It – Composting rabbit manure is an easy process and the end result will be ideal fertilizer for gardens plants and crops. I only compost the rabbit manure/urine/shaving mix i get from my drop pans in the stack a hutch setup. Simply add to your compost bin or pile and add in equal amounts of dry straw or shaving to the manure (Unless like me you only compost the shaving/poop mix-the shaving have all ready been added plus the urine starts the heat up fast!) you can also mix in your usally composted materials grass clippings, leaves ,kitchen scraps. Mix with a pitchfork and keep the pile moist not saturated you may have to cover it with a tarp. It will take any were from a few months to a year depending on how often you turn it. I have heard some of my composting friends complaining that their compost pile will not heat up. The poop/urine/shaving mix is the best compost activator i have seen. Add it, turn it, and it will heat up! If you can get your hands on even a small bucket of this mix every now and then you and your compost pile will be in nitrogen heaven as far as composting rabbit manure goes rabbit manure is nitrogen on steroids it will get your pile hot and breaking down at accelerated rates .Those friends with the cold compost piles are usally here on cage cleaning day with buckets and shovels. Now if i could just figure out to have them do all the cleaning chores!
Manure Tea – “Bunny Brew” – Rabbit manure tea is the colored water that manure has been steeped in and is full of nutrients making a concentrated liquid organic garden fertilizer! The nutrients from the manure dissolve easily into the water were it can be added to sprayers or watering cans. To make the tea, put a heaping shovel full of rabbit manure in a burlap bag or porous cloth with the four corners tied together. Put the bag in a 5 gallon bucket and fill with water. Allow it to seep in the warm sunshine for a week. Remove the bag and suspend it above the bucket until it stops dripping. You can speed up the process by putting manure directly into the bucket with the water and let it sit for 3 days, stirring daily. Then put some burlap over the top of another empty bucket (making a strainer) and pour thru the cloth to strain out the solids. Suspend the solids in the makeshift strainer above the bucket until it stops dripping. In both processes the solids will not have released all their nutrients to the tea, and they will still be a beneficial soil amendment (put into the garden or compost pile). If you have many plants, you may want to use a big barrel by using the ratio of 1 part manure to 5 parts water. To use the Tea, dilute it until it is about the color of kitchen tea, which should be about one cup of the concentrated manure tea to a gallon of water. Use it to dip every new plant before you transplant them. Dip only the root ball, until bubbles stop coming to the surface (also do this to trees and shrubs before transplanting). Also wet furrows before planting, and fill holes with it before you plant trees or shrubs. Wait until it is all absorbed into the soil allowing all the nutrients to permeate the nearby soil of the plant you are planting. Making and using manure tea is a great way to give your garden crops the extra boost they need for optimal health and growth. Give once a week as a fertilizer and throw out your miracle grow! Experience will tell how often to use and how much. Now that you know how to make bunny brew, you can use it all the time to give your plants that extra boost!
Growing worms- I am not going to go into this in to much detail in this post as i am writing up a post on benefits of raising worms and rabbits together for sustainability. Although fresh rabbit manure is considered one of the best organic garden fertilizers it is also the best worm feed and bedding. You can grow and raise worms directly in the rabbit droppings under cages, or hutches, or making boxes and adding the manure to those. Rabbit manure along with wasted feed makes some of the best worm feed there is. When properly cared for red worms eliminate unsightly manure piles, odor and fly problems. The best worm to use is the red worm or red wiggler(Eisenia fetida). You should have about 200 to 400 worms per square foot of surface area. To start off add bedding material to the bed. Bedding could be any combination of carbon material-shredded paper,decomposing leaves, hay, straw, peat moss, ect. Remember that worms cannot eat dry rabbit manure so maintain moisture level so the bedding is damp. Worms do not like salt and rabbit urine contains salt so you must remember to remove wet urine spots regularly adding them to the compost or directly to the garden. Keep adding a thin layer of your carbon material of choice to cover the surface of the bedding and loosen the bedding occasionally with a fork do not use a shovel(worms do not like being cut in half).The rabbits and worms will do the rest. You can remove and harvest worms and replace bedding every 3 to 4 months, if the worms are doing their job. Join The Rabbit Revolution! Subscribe to our blog and get the updates as they are posted. The Benefits Of Raising Worms With Rabbits For Sustainability will be a good one! I been working on this one for a long time!
Making Methane- This is something I will be experimenting with this summer with a 55 and 30 gallon barrel the 30 gallon nesting inside the 55 gallon barrel with a slurry of rabbit manure, shavings and urine mix being anaerobic composted to make methane. I will be trying to run a lawnmower engine hooked to a alternator to charge my battery bank stay tuned for this one! I will be posting the information on making and using this unit soon!
Hope this answers all you questions on rabbit manure and its benefits as well if you have any question or other ideas please let me know I will post them or add them to this post!
Bunny honey: Using rabbit manure as a fertilizer
Are you looking for an organic, small round, pelleted form of fertilizer? Look no further than a pet rabbit or two. Fresh rabbit manure is approximately 2 percent nitrogen, 1 percent phosphorus and 1 percent potassium. Use it fresh, straight from under the hutch. It does not burn plants. Use the pellets to topdress your lawn, mulch roses, vegetables, flower beds and ornamental plantings, or supercharge your compost pile and create an earthworm heaven.
One Michigan 4-H’er has had a booming business selling his “bunny honey.” As a young entrepreneur, Jack has found a way to cash in on what many would consider a waste product. Jack knew some gardeners that wanted a natural fertilizer. He also wanted to make a little money to help pay for the rabbit feed for his 4-H rabbit project. Bunny honey was the answer.
“Feeding my rabbits costs money. Selling their manure to help make gardens grow just makes sense. I get coffee cans, ice cream pails and buckets to fill and sell the bunny honey. It helps to cover my feed costs,” said Jack. “Your garden will grow better with bunny honey from the hoppin’ hotel!”
Here are a few facts about rabbit manure:
- Rabbit manure has four times more nutrients than cow or horse manure and is twice as rich as chicken manure. Cow, horse and chicken manure are considered “hot” and need to be composted (well-rotted) to use as fertilizers.
- One of the best things about rabbit manure is it doesn’t need to be composted.
- Rabbit manure is organic matter and improves poor soil structure, drainage and moisture retention.
- It improves the life cycle of microorganisms in the soil.
- Worms love rabbit manure.
- It is not as smelly as other manures and is easy to handle.
- One doe and her offspring can produce a ton of manure in one year. That’s a lot of bunny honey.
- Rabbit manure is packed with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, minerals and micronutrients.
- It contains beneficial trace elements such as calcium, magnesium, boron, zinc, manganese, sulfur, copper and cobalt, just to name a few.
- Nitrogen (N). Rabbit manure is higher in nitrogen than sheep, goat, chicken, cow or horse manure. Plants need nitrogen to produce strong green growth.
- Phosphorus (P). Rabbit manure is also higher in phosphorus than the other manures. It helps with the transformation of solar energy to chemical energy. Phosphorus also helps plants to withstand stress and contributes to more and bigger blossoms, and is great for root growth.
- Potassium (K). Potassium helps with fruit quality and reducing disease; plants will not grow without it.
If you would like to use bunny honey, look no further than your local Michigan State University Extension 4-H program. I am sure there will be a 4-Her that would be happy to supply you with this fantastic alternative to your fertilizer needs. You will have a lush garden, happy 4-H friend and leave a smaller environmental footprint.
What’s up, doc?
You may be surprised to learn that rabbit poop is actually useful for something once it’s already vacated the rabbit.
So, if you’ve got one around, listen up.
Gardening mavens extoll the virtues of using rabbit manure in their gardens as free fertilizer.
It comes out of the bunny in nice little pellets that don’t smell bad and have lots of nitrogen, which plants love.
Now, gardeners disagree about whether you should compost it first before putting it on a vegetable garden, to make sure any lingering germs are destroyed, or just throw it on the garden.
I’ve just been tossing it on my garden all year without any ill effects.
The reason you can use rabbit manure in the garden is that rabbits are vegetarians, so they don’t eat meat that might carry diseases to humans as in dog or cat waste.
You can also make a “compost tea” out of rabbit poop and water your plants with it, giving them a good dose of nutrients.
And, according to this discussion on a gardening blog, guinea pig manure can be used the same way.
I have a friend whose daughter has a rabbit, so I made up an old coffee can with a label on it and asked her to help us out. She’s been periodically providing us with the stuff for fertilizing our tomato plants, which seem to like it a lot.
The only down side that I can see for me is that the rabbit manure container apparently smells like a real live rabbit to my dog, (though I don’t smell anything,) and it makes him bark like an insane creature, apparently in the mistaken belief that there’s a rabbit to chase in our house.
I have to keep the can in the garage to calm him down.
What do you think? Would you do it?
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Sweet little wiggly noses, cute puffball tails, soft silky ears – there are so many reasons to love rabbits! Some backyard farmers are hesitant to add rabbits to their little farm because they don’t raise animals for meat. Rabbits are so much more than a source of rapidly reproducing meat! I keep Angora rabbits, usually raised for their gorgeous, long, silky fur prized by spinners and crafters. I have to be honest with you though – I have kept Angoras since 2015 with grand plans of spinning fiber and knitting all kinds of creations. I have a spinning wheel. I have bags and bags of Angora fiber I have “harvested” over the years. What I don’t have is time to learn how to spin! But this doesn’t mean that my rabbits are not earning their keep. Aside from being adorable and gentle companion animals, they amazing garden helpers. They might not be helping pull weeds or reminding me to turn on the sprinklers, but they have done more for my soil fertility than even my chickens!
If you are looking for an organic way to build soil health and improve the structure of your soil, you can’t do much better than rabbit manure. Rabbits are also a super easy addition to make in any backyard farm. They are small, don’t require a ton of space, and they are quiet – making them the ideal animal for any suburban or urban farm. Click here to learn about basic rabbit care
Rabbit manure is the superior choice for the backyard farmer for several reason:
*rabbit poop is dry & odorless. I love my chickens and ducks but they stink!
*rabbit manure is a “cold” manure, which means you do not have to compost it before you use it. Most animal manure is “hot” and if applied without composting will burn tender seedlings and plants.
*excellent NPK values! In fertilizer speak, these are the big three elements you want for healthy, strong plants; N (nitrogen), P (phosphorus), and K (potassium). Nitrogen grows healthy green leaves & strong plants, phosphorus helps big blooms, fruit & strong roots, and potassium helps with fruit quality & disease resistance. Rabbit manure’s NPK values are N 2.4, P 1.4, and K 0.6. Compare that to chicken manure’s values of N 1.1, P 0.8, and K 0.5, and you can see rabbits have them beat!
*time release pellets. Rabbit poop comes in these convenient little dry, powerhouse pellets. When you apply these pellets to your garden, they break down in the soil, seeping nutrients to your plants the whole time! While breaking down, they are also helping to improve the structure and stability of the soil.
*red wiggler worms LOVE rabbit manure! Red wigglers are composting superstars and are the preferred worm of vermicomposters everywhere. I have so many red wigglers in my compost bin that even with the chickens regularly digging them out and eating them I have TONS. I have my rabbits to thank for that!
*rabbit manure can be used year round. It’s great for giving your garden a nitrogen boost in the spring for seedlings, for side dressing plants in the summer, and for adding nutrients back into your soil after a prosperous growing season.
*it’s free and plentiful! Rabbits poop. A lot. It’s totally normal and healthy for each bunny to produce 100 or more pellets a day! Even with just a pair of bunnies, all that poop really adds up and can keep your garden green and lush.
How to use rabbit manure in your garden
Straight from the rabbit – You can literally take the dry pellets and sprinkle them right in the soil. Rabbit urine & urine soaked litter needs to be composted, but the dry pellets can be used right away. Pop a few in the hole when transplanting plants into the garden, side dress currently growing plants, or work them into the top few inches of an empty bed before or after planting season.
Compost – Does the thought of putting fresh manure in your garden make you feel uneasy? No worries, rabbit manure is great in the compost bin too. Add equal amounts of dry shavings/leaves and manure. Mix with a pitchfork occasionally and keep the pile moist to encourage everything to break down.
Rabbit manure tea – Manure tea is an awesome organic, liquid fertilizer that seedlings and young plants love! . The process is simple, you put the manure into a bag and let it seep in a bucket of water. As the manure dissolves, the water become dense with plant loving nutrition!
Purchased rabbit manure – If you can’t keep rabbits, you can still benefit from rabbit manure. You can buy it prepackaged in garden centers or from rabbit farmers. You might also be able to get some for free or cheap if you have a friend with a rabbit who doesn’t garden, or from your local animal shelter.
RABBIT PROBLEMS AROUND THE HOME ^
Rabbits have been adored and loved by people for centuries. They are found throughout the world and have a place in children’s books, TV and toys. The Easter Bunny is probably the most famous of all and Bugs Bunny may be a close second. Could an animal which is so widely loved ever cause a problem? Have no doubt about it; rabbits can become a destructive pest around the home.
Related articles: ARMADILLO GROUNDHOGS OPOSSUM SKUNK
The cottontail and snowshoe or varying hare are distributed throughout the United States. In general, they are able to live in rural as well as urban environments. They reproduce quickly and will fill the landscape with as many rabbits that are able to survive. As their numbers increase, so do predatory animal populations. Fox, cats, dogs, people and coyote are just some of the animals that like to eat rabbit. In the wild, these predatory animals are able to help keep rabbit populations in check.
Rabbit problems arise when no predators exist. In addition to the native rabbit species, there has been a recent explosion of rabbits which have been released by people who were not prepared for the reproduction capabilities of their pets. These domestic rabbits are being released in the wild on a regular basis. Pet owners are not willing to let their one or two rabbits become 10 or 20 so litters are released in the wild. Unfortunately, the “wild” areas are many times all too close to residential landscape and gardens.
Domestic rabbits which are released to fend for themselves are not prepared or designed to “live off the land”. They much prefer processed food and when unable to find any will quickly feed in gardens and flower beds. Rabbits are nocturnal and will feed on just about any plant they are able to reach. Succulent pansies, just about any garden vegetable or fruit and several ground cover species of shrub are all targets for hungry grazing rabbits. Since they strike at night, rabbits may go unnoticed for weeks. Eventually, the gardener may notice plants are simply disappearing or dying.
RABBITS DAMAGE LAWNS AND TREES
Once in the yard, foraging rabbits will eat grass, flowers and even the bark off trees. A sure sign you have an active rabbit is when you find droppings which are round and small – much like a “cocoa puff” – in the area where you find damage.
Other sure signs rabbits are the guilty animal is the damage they do. Rabbits will eat randomly. Instead of ingesting the entire plant, they may only chew the flower or half the plant before moving to the next. This behavior tends to maximize the damage they do and can be frustrating to the gardener. DEER will browse the entire plant down to the dirt and even yank it out of the ground if possible. And though deer can eat more at one sitting, they may only target 1-2 plants and move on where a rabbit might nibble on 5-8 causing a lot more damage overall.
There are limited approaches to controlling local rabbit populations. Although they may appear cute when they first appear in your yard, rest assured they are looking for something to eat. Once eating patterns are established, it can be difficult to change. Traditional approaches including wire fences, scarecrow like dolls or predatory animals will not work. Domestic rabbits which have been released in the wild are used to such devices and are not afraid of them. More importantly, these rabbits are large. The average adult is the size of a large cat. Because they are so big, cats will shy away from killing them. And because they are living in true metro and city environments, it is not likely that other predators will be able to help in controlling populations. This means you will have to take action if you want to stop them from destroying your plants and landscape.
HOW TO KEEP RABBITS OUT OF THE YARD
Rabbit damage in the yard can be minimized by using a repellent. The best repellent will depend on what you’re trying to protect.
APPLY PREDATOR URINE ALONG PROPERTY BORDERS
Setting out predator urine along property borders can keep rabbits from moving into a yard. If you have random rogue rabbits coming onto your property and would like to keep them away so they don’t distract a pet or start to nest, place out COYOTE URINE where they might enter. This repellent will naturally repel several small animals since coyote will feed on just about anything they can find. Rats, mice, squirrel, chipmunks and rabbits all seem to be afraid of coyote and when they smell the coyote urine, they are led to believe an active coyote is in the area. It is best to use some in several areas effectively establishing a round zone or barrier through which rabbits will not be able to enter.
Use 1-2 oz per 10-20 feet. Placements can be made directly to the ground focusing on main routes of entry. Plan on renewing the urine every 30-60 days.
To get longer lasting results when using urine, install GRANULE/LIQUID GUARDS. These hold liquids and will both shield and protect the urine from both the rain and sun.
Install Guards along pathways, in flower beds and other areas where rabbits are active. You should still sprinkle some of the material on the ground initially where the rabbits are most active but once they are gone you can use the Guards exclusively. This will let you get the longest residual from urine enabling it to last 60-90 days instead of just one month.
Each guard can hold 1.5-2 oz and should be spaced out every 10-20 feet. Drive them into the ground deep enough to be secure but not so deep that you cover up all the holds below the holding tank. This will allow the odor to slowly release.
If you desire a more discreet look, install CAPSULE GUARDS. These are small 1/2 oz capsules that hold urine and are then pushed into the ground. Space them out every 2-4 feet and plan on refilling them every 60-90 days.
Our kit comes with 12 guards and an eye dropper for easy fill up. One pack is enough to cover up to 50 linear feet.
BEST BAD TASTING REPELLENT FOR LAWN AND GARDEN
If rabbits are already entering the yard and feeding on grass or plants, use a bad tasting agent to stop the behavior. This approach is designed to put in place a “blanket” of bad taste over the vegetation the rabbits are targeting. Super concentrated and sure to stop both rabbits and deer, DEER OFF is easy to use and super concentrated.
Add 16 oz of concentrate to 1 gallon of water and plan on getting about 2,000 sq/ft of coverage per mixed gallon. Applications will last 2-4 weeks and the mixture can be applied safely to any plant foliage. And don’t let the name mislead you; it will work on Rabbits just as well as it will work deer.
Available in both gallons and 2.5 gallon jugs, you get up to 16,000 sq/ft of coverage from the gallon and about a full acre for the 2.5 gallon jug.
SOUND REPELLER TO REPEL RABBITS
If you’re looking for a more permanent solution, install our SOUND REPELLER. This device releases “ultra” sound by default but can also send out an audible sound. This unit can be configured to turn on only at night, only at day or anytime. For rabbits, we recommend night time only.
This unit can be powered by 4 “c” cell batteries and when powered this way, you can rely on the motion detector setting to turn on the unit when rabbits enter the protected zone. The range of the detector is about 30-40 feet and the device should be set up off the ground about 1 foot. The sound will be effective up to 75-100 feet so one unit can protect up to 5,000 sq/ft of turf. Position units to point out over the turf or garden area needing protection and understand the units are “directional”. This means they are only effective in the direction they face and not behind them.
Our units come with a remote control key so you can turn the unit on and off as needed. And the sound will not hurt pets or people so they can be safely deployed around the yard and garden where people are active.
They also come with an AC power supply and if possible, powering them on all the time is the “best” setting. This will get the sound over a large area with no relief for intruding animals. They will avoid the sound at all costs so if you can keep the unit running continuously, you’ll get instant results and force the animals to forage elsewhere.
For continuous running, set the Operating Time to “Night” and Ultrasonic to “constant”. The Motion Sensor Sensitivity is “N/A” since it will be always on and the Sonic Volume should be turned all the down (to the left) since you will be relying on the ultra sound only. Set the Frequency (yellow knob) almost all the way to the left.
If you decide to power the unit with batteries, set the Operating Time to “night”, Ultrasonic to “Motion Sensor”, the Motion Sensor Sensitivity to “30” and the Sonic Volume to “40-60” if possible. The audible sound is quite loud and when the unit goes off, the extra sound will generally help your cause. And after 2 weeks, you can reduce this setting if you need to turn it down due to close proximity of neighbors. The Frequency (yellow knob) should be set almost all the way to the left.
Sound repellers are very effective and will last for many years providing a permanent solution to the problem. Wire them into the landscape for a more uniform look and since they only cost $.25-.50 a month to run via the included power supply, a fairly inexpensive fix.
Units should be placed 1-2 feet above ground and pointed in the direction where animals are entering as well as “over” the turf you want to protect.
For easy installation, MOUNTING BLOCKS are handy. They can accept 1 or 2 repellers (picture to the right) and have a 1/2″ hole on their bottom so they will easily fit over a 1/2″ piece of rebar or any other wood or plastic stake. Ultra Sound Repellers will work fine by themselves as long as you have a good place to set them up. But we highly recommend getting the Units with Mounting Blocks in the kits we offer. Mounting Blocks allow you to place units anywhere and they will save time too.
We also feature several accessories for our sound repeller including POWER CORD EXTENDERS (33 FEET AND 66 FEET), CIGARETTE LIGHTER POWER ADAPTER, ALLIGATOR CLIP POWER CORD and AC POWER SUPPLY REPLACEMENTS.
HOW TO TRAP NUISANCE RABBIT
A more permanent solution is to remove the invading animal. This can be done with either a live trap or a kill trap. Live trapping rabbit can be tricky but with the right trap and right lure, foraging animals can be tricked and caught. Kill traps are more efficient when you have established points of entry or trails in use.
BEST RABBIT LIVE TRAP
The best rabbit trap size is one that is much larger than the target animal. This will provide plenty of room for the rabbit to enter. Our LT111230 measures 11″ wide by 12″ tall by 30″ long and is efficient for rabbits. To get fast results, line the bottom of the trap with pine straw or grass so the rabbit will not notice the cage under their paws.
Trap sets should be made right at the point where they’re feeding. This could be in a garden, on the lawn or around a specific bush. In some cases covering the trap with sticks and brush will help. This is especially so if the activity is alongside ground cover.
Our trap comes standard with a front door only but the rear door model has a sliding removable rear door. This allows for easy sets and quick animal releases as well as access to the trip pan for trap maintenance if needed.
Tips for Repelling Rabbits
Rabbits may seem like delicate nibblers but that doesn’t mean they don’t do considerable damage.Rabbits will eat the tender growth of newly emerging plants in the spring. During the summer, they will eat broad-leafed weeds, clover, grasses, leaves, shoots, roots, fruit, berries,vegetables. In winter, rabbits will eat bark of trees and shrubs, buds, twigs, blackberry and raspberry canes bushes. Although they can be quite a nuisance, you can get rid of rabbits from your garden.
How to recognize the signs of rabbits in your area?
Rabbits have a great number of natural predators and they may be difficult to actively observe. However, it’s not uncommon to see rabbits in broad daylight when they’re in an unthreatening environment and some gardens are simply overrun with rabbits. In addition to observing damage on plants you may see rabbit droppings. Rabbit pellets are about the same size and shape as a pea. They may appear scattered or in small piles.
“I love bunnies, well I use too anyway. All of a sudden I have them everywhere and they’re eating me out of house and home! My neighbor told me about your rabbit repellent which I immdiately purchased. To put it simply, I haven’t lost a plant since I started using it. Excellent!!”
How to recognize rabbit damage on plants.
Carefully observe the leaves and stalks that have been left behind. Quite often rabbits will nibble plants down to the ground. Because of a rabbits’ sharp front teeth, the leaves that are left will appear cleanly cut as though they were trimmed with scissors. Compare this to the deer damage. Deer tear at leaves, leaving ragged edges.
How to recognize rabbit damage on trees and shrubs.
In the winter, with the absence of tender, new growth, rabbits are more likely to gnaw on trees, twigs and shrubs. The bark of young trees are particularly susceptible to rabbit damage. As trees mature and the bark thickens, the trees become less desirable. Rabbits may eat the bark on trees from the ground up to around 20″. They may gnaw the bark in patches or even completely girdle the tree.
Rabbit damage on twigs and shrubs appear as clean cuts at a 45 degree angle. If the damage is above two feet from the ground, it is more likely from a deer.
What Can You Do To Control Rabbits
There are many methods, suggestions and home remedies available to control rabbits and get rid of them in your garden. Some methods to keep rabbits from eating your plants are listed below. Preferred methods depend on your lifestyle, finances and personal preferences.
“Just wanted to let you know I’ve tried a lot of these home recipies but nothing compares to your rabbit repellent and it’s so much easier to use.”
When comparing cost, convenience and reliability, you can see why so many gardeners choose I Must Garden Rabbit Repellent! I Must Garden Rabbit Repellent does not smell offensive to people and won’t harm the animals. Rabbits just don’t touch any plants sprayed with it.
- Make your garden less inviting to rabbits.
Rabbits will only live in areas that provide cover from predators. This means they will live under low-growing shrubs, in brush piles and in tall grasses and under porches, sheds and other structures. Clean up brush piles, keep tall grasses mowed and block access under structures. Your can also introduce plants in your garden that rabbits are not as likely to eat.
- Add barrier fencing to protect plants.
Add collars around the trunk of a young tree to prevent rabbit damage and add a fence around vegetable gardens. Fences must be anywhere from 2-3 feet above the ground and be buried to a depth of six inches underground. In areas where it snows, consideration has to be given to allow for extra height to a fence. Electric fencing is another option. Fencing needs to be strong and regularly checked for damage and be quite costly. In addition, fencing is not always an option from an aesthetic view.
- Trap and relocate.
Check with local ordinances on trapping guidelines for your area. Trapping can be time consuming and costly.
- Keep a dog in your yard.
Just the presence of a dog in your yard may be enough to keep rabbits away. However, you may not want to deal with the expense and maintenance of a dog to get rid of rabbits from your garden.
- Scare and Ultrasonic devices.
Water scarecrows, fake snakes and owls, aluminum pie pans and ultrasonic devices are sometimes used to try to scare rabbits away from plants. Unfortunately, they can be unreliable and have limited effectiveness as rabbits do eventually get used to these devices and are no longer frightened by them.
- Spray with I Must Garden Rabbit Repellent.
A most economical and practical method to repel rabbits from your garden is to spray with I Must Garden Rabbit Repellent. It works and it’s guaranteed. You can quickly and easily protect all your plants from rabbit damage. Spraying your plants with I Must Garden Rabbit Repellent will make your garden less appealing to rabbits and they’ll go elsewhere to look for food and shelter.
We want you to be satisfied with every purchase from I Must Garden, if you have any questions or concerns please contact us
Are Rabbit Droppings Harmful To Humans?
Is Rabbit Poop Harmful?
The Truth about Rabbit Droppings
These animals produce two different types of solid waste, but only one is commonly seen outside of a nest. Often found scattered or piled up in gardens, these droppings are brownish, hard, round pellets about 1 cm in diameter.
Identifying Rabbit Scat
Rabbit waste is similar to white-tailed deer scat despite the pests’ size difference. Both animals leave pellets of the same size in mounds, although rabbit droppings usually only pile up when they are eating or hiding from a threat.
Otherwise, rabbit poop is distinguishable from other garden pest scat. Raccoons and skunks, for example, leave much larger, irregular faeces, and woodchucks typically excrete waste underground in burrows.
Is Rabbit Poop Harmful?
While rabbits can carry parasites like tapeworm and roundworm, their waste is not known to transmit any diseases to humans. However, a single rabbit can excrete over 100 pellets in a single day, which can make a flowerbed or backyard unpleasant.
Homeowners dealing with excessive scat or garden damage from these pests are advised to contact the wildlife professionals at Orkin Canada for rabbit removal services.
Organic fertilizer is a proven way to improve your soil composition long after your plants have obtained the nutrients they need. But organic fertilizer is more expensive than inorganic fertilizer. If you have rabbits in your yard, you may be wondering if you can use rabbit poop as manure.
Rabbit poop is rich in nitrogen and phosphorous, two crucial nutrients required for plant growth. Furthermore, rabbit poop is not a hot manure. This means you can drop rabbit pellets straight into your garden soil without the need for further processing.
Rabbit manure is available from rabbit farmers or in prepackaged bags. It’s odorless, dry and in pellet form. It breaks down slowly in the soil, so there is no risk of it burning the roots of your plants.
Is Rabbit Poop Good Manure for the Garden?
If you’re already raising rabbits, rabbit manure can be a game-changer for your garden. Not only do you have an endless supply of rabbit dung at your disposal, but you’re also dealing with a type of dropping that doesn’t have to be processed before use.
Rabbit manure is among the richest sources of nitrogen out there. It’s packed with potassium and phosphorous, two essential nutrients for plant health and growth.
Rabbit poo is also rich in beneficial trace elements such as zinc, calcium, magnesium, manganese, copper, sulfur, boron, and cobalt, according to a study published in Environmental Study and Pollution Research.
Unlike other manures, rabbit droppings do not have to be composed. Rabbit poop can be immediately applied to your garden soil and won’t hurt your crops. You can use it on its own or mix it with topsoil before applying it to your garden.
As rabbit poop decomposes, it builds the structure of the soil and slowly releases vital nutrients and microorganisms that will promote faster and healthier plant growth.
Furthermore, unlike cow, pig, or horse manure, rabbit dung is also odorless. Therefore, as you directly apply the droppings to your garden, you don’t have to worry about the odor.
At first glance, rabbit manure may appear less potent than commercial fertilizers. However, they are more effective and much healthier for your garden, especially if you’re growing food crops.
Organic fertilizers, such as rabbit poop, are highly beneficial for earthworms that help improve the quality of your soil. They also feed the beneficial microorganisms in your garden that are imperative for healthy plant growth.
Research published in the journal, Animals, also suggests that rabbit manure can be a good source of nutrients and energy for ruminants (such as goats and cows).
Rabbit Manure NPK Values vs. Other Manures
The three numbers on a fertilizer represent the value of the three macronutrients, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) used by plants. The values are called NPK for short and the higher the number, the more concentrated the nutrient is in the fertilizer.
The following table compares the NPK values of popular manures used by farmers and hobbyists.
Rabbit manure contains a higher concentration of nitrogen compared to chicken, sheep, pig, cow, steer, and horse manure.
Nitrogen is imperative for healthy plant growth as it helps them grow greener and stronger, and thus reach their full potential. Having a higher nitrogen concentration is excellent for quick-growing salad greens as well as the early growth of corn and tomatoes.
Rabbit manure has the highest concentration of phosphorus compared to other manures.
Phosphorous is required for the conversion of solar energy to chemical energy. This aids in proper plant growth. Phosphorous also helps plants tolerate stress, for example, during conditions that are not ideal for growth.
Phosphorous encourages bigger and higher number of blooms with fruiting and flowering. It’s also excellent for root growth.
The concentration of potassium in rabbit manure is similar to those of sheep, pig, horse, and chicken.
Potassium improves fruit quality and reduces the risk of lethal diseases in plants. Plants utilize potassium as an enzyme to create sugar and proteins. Potassium is also used by plants to control water content.
In addition to its high NPK value, rabbit manure is also packed with organic matter, micronutrients and microorganisms that improve soil structure, moisture retention, and drainage.
How To Use Rabbit Poop In Your Garden
Start by determining the source of your rabbit dung. If you raise rabbits on your homestead, start collecting them right away. If your kids have pets, have them collect their rabbit waste every day.
If you don’t have your own rabbits, consider sourcing manure from a local rabbit farmer. You can also look for prepackaged rabbit manure online, but it may not be available in major garden stores.
One of the easiest ways to obtain rabbit poop is to place plastic tubs under your rabbits’ cages. Make sure you empty these bins every day as waiting too long will lead to maggots.
If you haven’t decided how to use your rabbit manure yet, the following section is sure to give you some great ideas for your garden!
From Pan to Garden (Direct Method)
Rabbit poop is referred to as a “cold” manure because it decomposes and releases its nutrients slowly. Therefore, it can be applied straight onto your garden soil without being composted.
If you don’t use a lot of bedding in your rabbit pans (hay is okay), you can pick up the droppings and apply them directly into your garden. Sprinkle droppings around your garden and allow them to release their nutrients gradually into the soil.
Some people prefer to bury rabbit droppings about 2 inches deep to prevent flies, but this step isn’t always necessary. Rabbit poo is odorless, so you don’t have to worry about the smell either.
Composting Rabbit Poop
Not everyone appreciates the idea of applying poop directly into their garden. Luckily, rabbit manure breaks down quickly, is easy to compost, and creates a nutrient-rich soil.
Add your rabbit manure to your compost pile or bin and add equal amounts of straw and wood shavings. Kitchen scraps (non-citrus produce and coffee grounds), leaves, grass clippings can be mixed into the pile as well.
Use a pitchfork to combine the contents of your compost pile and moisten with a garden hose. Avoid saturating the compost pile and wet it enough so that it isn’t soaking.
Cover the pile with a tarp and turn it every two weeks, watering it afterward and keeping it covered to maintain heat and humidity. Keep adding to the compost pile and turn it every time until the pile is completely composted.
Composting may take a few months to a year, depending on the heat and the size of your pile. You can speed up the decomposition process by adding in earthworms along with coffee grounds.
Giving Transplants a Boost
While digging a hole for a transplant, add in some rabbit poop to enrich the soil and create ideal growing conditions for the plant. Rabbit poop will give roots an immediate dose of fertilizer to start working with.
Rabbit Manure Tea For Larger Harvests
You can add rabbit manure tea to your plant water to elevate its nutrients.
To make rabbit manure tea, soak 2 cups of rabbit poop in a large bucket with 5 gallons of water. Keep the tea covered and only uncover it once a day for stirring.
Flies love rabbit compost tea, so be sure to brew your batch as far away from your house as possible.
It will take 3 to 5 days for the manure to completely breakdown. Note that the droppings will not dissolve completely and you will still have plenty of solute settling at the bottom. Continue brewing the tea in a warm, sunny location for best results.
Food For Worms
Rabbit manure can be added into a vermicompost bin or a worm farm with red wigglers. However, the high concentration of nitrogen combined with rabbit urine that naturally gets mixed with the pellets can be poisonous to worms when fed directly.
To make rabbit manure safer for worms, expose the droppings to a temperature between 130 to 150 degrees F for a few days.
To test the manure, transfer some of the droppings into a tub with a few worms. Cover the tub with a lid and leave it undisturbed for at least 15 minutes. If the worms are sticking to the walls of the tub when you open it, the manure will have to age before it is ready to be fed to the worms.
Rabbit manure has a high proportion of nitrogen compared to carbon. Balance out this ratio by combining the manure with materials that are high in carbon, such as straw and wood chips. You’ll also have to remove excess salt in the droppings by passing water through it before use.
Once the mixture is ready, add thin layers of prepared manure over your worm beds along with materials rich in carbon.
How Much Rabbit Manure Can I Use In My Garden?
Rabbit manure is a highly versatile organic fertilizer. You can spread it on your garden soil, add it directly into your potting soil for container gardening or make home potting soil with it.
However, all animal manures come with their own set of precautions. The following will address how much rabbit manure you need in your garden.
To top-dress a plant, spread no more than a ½ to 1-inch layer of rabbit droppings around the plant. Make sure the rabbit poop pellets do not directly touch the plants.
You can add rabbit manure to potting soil to improve its drainage and fertility. Each pot will need no more than 1-2 handfuls of rabbit manure. Combine the pellets and the soil before planting.
Note that rabbit manure contains more nitrogen than many other types of animal manure. Although this nitrogen is released slowly, it’s highly recommended that you don’t overdo it. Too much nitrogen in the soil can lead to excess foliage at the expense of fruits and flowers.
Making Your Own Potting Mix
Combine used rabbit bedding, rabbit manure, fresh grass clippings, and other organic matter to create compost. To increase the soil quality, consider adding red wiggler worms.
Mix the prepared compost with sand and topsoil in equal amounts to create a nutrient-rich homemade potting mix.
Most rabbits are fed a commercial diet. Therefore, their manure is less likely to contain weed seeds and pathogens that may harm humans.
However, it is still ideal that you age your rabbit manure for 120 days before adding it to containers containing food crops to prevent foodborne illness, according to Colorado State University Extension.
Allow rabbit manure to age for up to 4 months before using it for food crops that make direct contact with soil, such as carrots, lettuce, and beets. Always wash your vegetables thoroughly, preferably in a sink filled with diluted vinegar to remove fertilizer and dirt.
If you wish to use a rabbit fertilizer that is more convenient and ready-to-use, consider purchasing a bag of rabbit pellets that have already been tested for diseases. You must never apply rabbit manure to leaves as this may burn your foliage. Instead, always apply manure to the soil only.
I love raising rabbits, mainly because of rabbit pellets also known as rabbit manure. When people ask me why I raise rabbits they expect me to say meat, pets or fur. When I say manure I really surprise them. I do love my rabbits and I love their meat, but rabbit pellets are invaluable. If you work on a small homestead rabbits might be a great livestock option.
I first got into raising rabbits as a meat source. We went out and picked up a few cross bred bunnies that were cheap, $5.00-$10.00 each, and I just wasn’t having much luck at the beginning. They were dying on us and the ones that did survive had kits (baby bunnies) that would just die after a few weeks of age. I went on with this for 2 years. The other problem I had in my area was selling colored rabbits. My market wanted pure New Zealand rabbits and almost always wanted to start their own rabbitry.
My other market was for dog food. The most I could get for this market was $10.00 for 4-5 lb. rabbits. This wasn’t really bad because usually they take all the bunnies you can sell to them.
I really thought that I could get more money for the same work I was doing, so my decision was to get rid of all my rabbits and start over. I did just that with pure bred New Zealand Rabbits and have never regretted it. My market loves these rabbits and I get people from as far away as 200 miles to come buy my rabbits. I don’t have registered rabbits but as is they are worth $20.00 a doe all day long. We just eat the bucks: they grow faster anyway.
As far as efficacy on my homestead, I adore my rabbits and know they are an integral part of life here. I have tried feeding naturally with hay but this hasn’t worked for long. I have had problems getting my breeders to successfully kindle. I see wild rabbits eating from my garden every afternoon but my domesticated bunnies just don’t do well that way. I’m not saying it can’t be done I’m just saying it didn’t work as the main food. I do, however, feed them about 10% from the homestead (in winter) 50% from the homestead in the summer.
I think the hardest part of feeding hay is finding the right hay. Bunnies can be picky and some hay like alfalfa is just too high in protein. When you find good hay, buy as much as you can. Changing hay on rabbits can be just as bad as changing feed pellets on them. Young rabbits should also either have access to it from day one or not until they are 4 months old. While they drink milk from the doe they will have the right flora in the intestines to break down the hay. If you wean the kits and then give them hay, the kits can possibly die because they don’t produce the right flora yet. At about 4 months of age introducing hay slowly is the safest route.
For caging, I prefer wire cages, but I still have some wood cages. Wood cages harbor dangerous bacteria that will eventually kill rabbits. All wire cages are easier to clean and will be much more sanitary. The best way to clean all wire cages is to remove the rabbits, use a grill cleaning brush to scrub quickly, then run a weed burning torch over the cage. This is the quickest way to clean the cages and burn off all hair, webs, and bacteria.
Either way you build your pens, keep them high enough to easily collect the manure. Keeping them high enough will also make it easier for feeding, watering and breeding. Getting your bunnies set up right the first time not only makes it easier on you but also makes it cheaper in the long run.
I would like to explain why rabbit manure is my choice for a small homestead. Chicken manure is really hot (nitrogen so high it can burn your plants). Be prepared to compost poultry manure for at least one year. Chicken manure also needs to be mixed with straw or hay to compost properly.
Sheep and goat manure is not nearly as hot as poultry manure but it still needs to compost a few months before you can use it. Rabbit manure can be used fresh and won’t burn your plants. As a matter of fact, you can plant directly in the rabbit manure without any trouble. Now, not all plants do well this way because not all of the plant’s needs are present in the rabbit manure, so putting a layer of rabbit manure on top of the soil is usually the best bet.
Keeping rabbits is really easy once setup correctly. As I write I have 10 breeder New Zealand rabbits. This isn’t enough to give me all the manure I need on my ¾ acre but in the spring when they start producing kits (rabbit babies) I get all the manure I need. The more food I give them the more manure I get.
When I feed my rabbits, I keep in mind how efficient they are. If I put 1 cup of feed in, what doesn’t come out in manure comes out in meat. I love to eat rabbit and I love our fresh vegetables! My rabbits make both of them possible and help with a cycle on our small homestead.
Using the rabbit manure is easy: just spread it out around your plants. You don’t have to be concerned on how much to put because it’s never too much. The round little pellets will take a long time to break down if you just broadcast small amounts in the garden. If you put them out in the fall, most of it will be looking the same in the spring. Keeping moisture on the pellets will break it down faster. I like to spread the manure then cover it with leaves or straw. It will break down and the life in your soil will flourish.
If you can, I suggest just making a pile of manure and keeping it moist by sprinkling with water and turning the pile often. If conditions are right you will have a fresh compost looking pile in a few weeks. Then, spread it out anywhere in your garden. The look is much better and it will help improve your soil much more quickly.
I’m just scratching the surface with this article on the reason that I choose to raise rabbits. Rabbits can benefit any small homestead. City dwellers can really benefit from keeping rabbits. You probably won’t have any city ordinances saying you can’t keep rabbits where chickens are banned. Using containers to grow plants in rabbit manure could be a real possibility in that sort of situation.
If you don’t have rabbits, consider getting some and if you do have some please use that manure because it’s just a blessing to your soil!