- Strawberry Quinault
- What Are Quinault Strawberries: Tips For Growing Quinaults At Home
- What are Quinault Strawberries?
- How to Grow a Quinault Strawberry
- Life Cycle of a Strawberry Plant
- Strawberry Types
- Soil And Fertilizer
- Strawberry Flowers
- Water And Weeds
- Fall and Winter Care
- Second Year Harvest
- The Growth Cycle of Strawberry Plants
- Growth Cycle of Strawberry Plants: Maturation
- Growth Cycle of Strawberries: Multiplication & Expansion
- Life Cycle of Strawberry Plants: Seeds
- Life Cycle of Strawberries: Life Span
- Life Cycle of Strawberry Plants: Conclusion
- Strawberry Growing and Harvest Information
- Where to Grow Strawberries
- Recommended Varieties of Strawberries
- Soil for Planting Strawberries
- Planting Strawberries
- Cultivating Strawberries
- Harvesting Strawberries
- Strawberry Pests
- Strawberry Diseases
- Related posts:
15 Everbearing Strawberries Quinalt is an Everbearing variety that even produces fruit on unrooted runners, increasing the harvest. Great for jams.
Plant strawberries in spring as soon as your soil can be worked to a depth of 6-8”. Well draining sandy loam with plenty of organic matter in a sunny location is preferred.
1. The most common method for planting strawberries is in the matted row system. Set your new plants 18-24” apart in rows 3-4’ apart.
2. Allow their new runners to set in the row up to 2’ wide, removing plants that stray beyond that boundary.
3. Be careful to keep the crowns just at the soil surface, do not plant too deep or they might rot or too shallow as they will heave.
4. Water well at time of planting and continue irrigation through September as drought stress will affect harvest. Fertilize if necessary.
5. Remove flowers the first 2 months of the season so that plants produce more runners.
HARVEST TIME: Spring and Fall
HABIT: An abundant crop from spring until the first frost. Up to 200 flavorful, deep red, firm berries from a single plant. Will form a solid mat within the wide rows as they reach maturity.
USAGE: Fresh eating, jams and jellies, freezes well and baking.
PLANTING TIPS: Protect from severe winter cold and frost heaving by mulching with 3-4” of straw in late fall. Remove mulch in spring as temperatures moderate.
Package of 15
Fragaria x ananassa Quinalt
4, 5, 6, 7, 8
First crop in spring and another in fall
Plant so that the top of the root is 1″ below the soil line.
Sandy Soil, Loamy Soil, Acidic Soil
Average, Well Draining
Attract Birds, Bee Friendly, Good For Containers, Multiple Blooms / Rebloomer, Edible
Spring / Summer
What Are Quinault Strawberries: Tips For Growing Quinaults At Home
Strawberry is the quintessential late spring to early summer fruit. The sweet, red berry is a favorite of just about everyone, which is why home gardeners love everbearing varieties like the Quinault. By growing Quinaults you can get two strawberry harvests per year.
What are Quinault Strawberries?
The Quinault strawberry is a cultivar that was selected for its ability to produce two harvests per year: in the late spring or early summer and again in the fall. They produce abundantly during these two seasons, but may also produce a little bit of fruit throughout the summer.
The Quinault strawberry is named for an area of Washington, and it was developed by researchers at Washington State University. This is a fairly easy cultivar to grow as long as you know some basic Quinault strawberry info before you start:
- These strawberries do well and will be perennial in zones 4-8.
- They require full sun.
- Quinault strawberry plants resist more diseases than other cultivars.
- The plants grow 8-10 inches (20 to 25 cm.) tall.
- They grow 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm.) wide.
- Quinault strawberries need rich soil and plenty of water.
How to Grow a Quinault Strawberry
Quinault strawberry care is not much different from how you would care for other types of strawberries. Choose a spot with full sun and soil that drains well. If your soil is poor, enrich it with organic material and fertilizer. These strawberries are nutrient hungry. Avoid burying the crown of each strawberry plant, as this can cause rot.
Get your strawberries in the ground as early in the spring as possible to ensure you get two good harvests. Keep them well watered throughout the summer. Don’t let the soil dry out too much, as water is the key to plump, tasty berries. To encourage more growth, remove flowers and runners during the first month.
Be prepared to eat, preserve and store strawberries because each Quinault you plant could give you up to 200 delicious berries each year. Pick your ripe berries in the morning, when they are still cool, and only choose those that are ripe. They will not ripen off the plant.
Life Cycle of a Strawberry Plant
plant – strawberry image by joanna wnuk from Fotolia.com
Strawberries are a popular fruit grown by many home gardeners. Growing 25 strawberry plants can easily yield up to 50 qts. of berries from May to June. All strawberries have crown perennials and annual roots. Every year the crown survives and sends new roots to replace the old roots that died. Each year the root system gets higher and higher on the crown and must be buried further with garden soil.
strawberry image by Anna Chelnokova from Fotolia.com
Three types of strawberries are available for home gardeners. The Dayneutral strawberry will bear fruit numerous times in a season, the Everbearer strawberry produces two crops of berries in the season, and Junebearers produce berries once per season. Junebearers are quite hardy and easy to grow. Everbearers are best grown in a container or as simple ground cover. Within the three varieties are numerous cultivars with various berry sizes, flavor and production.
Soil And Fertilizer
strawberry image by Josef F Stuefer from Fotolia.com
Strawberries should be planted at least 6 to 8 inches apart in well-drained soil. Strawberries do not do well in standing water and will easily die if their roots remain wet for an extended period. When planting strawberries, it is best to mix a high humus content into the soil, such as peat moss at a ratio of 50 percent peat moss with 50 percent garden soil. Fertilize the strawberry soil using 6-24-24 at a ratio of 2 lbs. per 100 square feet. Always plant the crown of the strawberry plant at soil level.
strawberry image by Alexandru Buzatu from Fotolia.com
Pinch the first strawberry blossoms to appear on the plant to encourage the plants to bush out. Pinching will encourage the plants to produce runners with smaller plants. The strawberry plant should not be allowed to produce berries for the first year so the plant has time to establish itself. Fertilize the plants in June, July and August using 1 lb. of 12-12-12 for every 50-foot row of plants. Water the fertilizer into the ground thoroughly.
Water And Weeds
strawberry flower image by Jan Rakic from Fotolia.com
Water the strawberry plant with 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Keep the area around the strawberry plants weed-free so the plant and its runners can grow without competition for nutrients.
Fall and Winter Care
erbeer pflanze nah aufnahme image by Lucky Dragon from Fotolia.com
Apply at least 2 inches of mulch over strawberry plants for winter care. Use bark chips or straw. Keep the plants covered until spring and then rake the mulch away.
Second Year Harvest
strawberries image by Tom Davison from Fotolia.com
During the second year, begin to harvest strawberries every other day. Remove the strawberries from the plant by clipping the plants within 1 inch of the berries’ crown.
Strawberry plants are a wonderful forb. Their life cycle is much more complicated than the simple appearance of the humble strawberry plant implies. The growth cycle of strawberry plants spans the entire year and repeats annually. The life cycle of strawberry plants begins either from seed or from runner plants, and continues until senescence. This post is an overview of the life of a strawberry plant from germination until withered, brown leaves signify the passage from life unto death.
The Growth Cycle of Strawberry Plants
As with any cyclical scenario, it is difficult to choose a starting point (which came first, the chicken or the egg?). For the purposes of describing the life cycle of strawberry plants, a dual starting point will be considered as a sprouted strawberry seedling and a new strawberry runner. While both of these starting points require the existence prior life, a discussion of the origins of life is outside the purview of this article.
Life Cycle of Strawberries: Beginnings
The strawberry seed, as with all seeds, contains the genetic material necessary for the continuation of the plant species (see the Strawberry Seeds page for more details). Upon sprouting, the roots are sent downward into the soil, and the transformation of nutrients into plant matter proceeds as the life cycle of the plant is perpetuated by resources obtained from the plants surroundings. These seedlings are genetically varied from the parent plants. Alternatively, established strawberry plants multiply themselves by means of clone or daughter plants extended from themselves by means of stolons to root some distance away from the mother plant and be established as an independent, but genetically identical, strawberry plant (see this page for more details: Strawberry Runners). Strawberry seeds will usually sprout in the late winter or spring after a period of cold stratification during winter months (but this isn’t required for all strawberry varieties) while runner plants are generally established later in the spring through the fall during warmer temperatures.
Growth Cycle of Strawberry Plants: Maturation
Once root growth commences, plant growth begins in earnest for both seedlings and runner plants. This allows all parts of the strawberry plant to grow and mature. The runner plants have a distinct advantage over seedlings. They start out larger and have a more fully formed support system providing the energy needed for development. But, by the time late summer and early fall rolls around, both seedlings and runner plants are usually established. In the process of growing, the plants will have sent forth roots and produced a canopy of photosynthesizing tri-lobed leaflets sitting atop non-woody stems. Both roots and leaves extend from the hub of the strawberry plant, the crown.
Growth Cycle of Strawberries: Multiplication & Expansion
Once the plants have matured, they are ready to multiply and expand. The do this by means of the runner plants that have already been mentioned. The runners (stolons) are usually between 8 and 18 inches long, depending on the strawberry variety. These extensions serve to spread a strawberry plant’s range and find areas more favorable to growth, whether through higher soil quality or increased exposure to sunlight. Most strawberry varieties are adept at multiplication in this fashion, and they are even considered an invasive weed in some situations.
Life Cycle of Strawberry Plants: Seeds
While strawberry plants produce runners, they don’t put all their reproductive eggs in the same basket. Each strawberry plant devotes significant energy to genetic diversification through seed production. Strawberry seeds come from strawberry flowers which come from strawberry buds which are formed in the crowns of established strawberry plants. There are some variances of flower bud, flower, and strawberry production depending on which type of strawberry plant is considered (see the Strawberry Variety page for more details). The most common of these types is the June-bearing strawberry, and it will be considered here.
During the late summer and early fall, strawberry plants begin forming flower buds within their crowns. During this period, adequate water, light, and nutrients are critical. The flower buds form prior to winter and then move into dormancy (along with the rest of the plant) as the temperature drops. When temperatures again warm in late winter or early spring, the plants revive and immediately begin the transformation of the flower buds into flowers sitting atop stalks. These flowers, like most flowers, are then pollinated by insects and other pollinators. The result of pollination is a large mass of (usually red) accessory tissue studded with individual seed-containing fruits (there are also white strawberries, however). These achenes are attractive to birds and other creatures (including humans!) and are eaten. They are then digested. The remains, including many viable seeds, are then deposited in different locations to sprout and begin again the life cycle of strawberry plants.
Life Cycle of Strawberries: Life Span
The life arc of strawberries begins with the establishment of a new plant, peaks two to three years later, and then proceeds toward senescence and death two to three years following its peak. Under ideal conditions, a strawberry plant can live up to 5-6 years. After 3 productive years, however, they usually begin to loss of vigor, and the production of strawberries begins to decline rapidly. Eventually, as age progresses and the strawberry plant weakens, strawberries usually succumb to ubiquitous opportunistic fungi or other environmental pathogens. The death process usually commences with spots, defects, and browning of previously healthy plant tissues and ends with a brown, withered, decomposing mass.
Life Cycle of Strawberry Plants: Conclusion
Throughout their life, strawberry plants provide many times their own weight in harvested strawberries. They are one of the most productive plants when what is produced from the weight of the plant is considered. Strawberries begin to ripen four to five weeks after the first flowers open and continue to ripen for about three weeks. Have you considered growing strawberries yourself this year? If so, there are a host of suppliers from which you can find multiple strawberry varieties for sale. Simply see this directory: Strawberry Plants for Sale.
Understanding the growth cycle of strawberry plants can help you in your strawberry growing endeavors. Good luck!
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Strawberry Growing and Harvest Information
|For growth||64-77 F|
|Soil and Water|
|Fertilizer||After harvesting, fertilize with all purpose fertilizer, 1 cup per 10 foot of row|
|Side-dressing||3 weeks after plants are set|
|Water||high, frequent watering during fruiting season|
|Space between plants|
|Space between rows||24″|
|Average plants per person||10|
|Pick when strawberries are bright to dark red, depending on variety. The best fruit is picked early in the morning.|
|First Seed starting Date||56-70 days before last frost date|
|Companions||Bush beans, spinach, lettuce|
|Incompatibles||Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, raspberries|
Where to Grow Strawberries
Strawberries are a perennial fruit, winter hardy and easy to grow. They should be planted in late fall or early spring in fertile, well drained soil in an area that receives full sun. Strawberries have a shallow root system and do not compete well with weeds. Till the strawberry bed in the fall to eliminate pests and plant matter that can cause disease. Plant away from large trees to ensure root systems don’t interfere with your strawberry plants. Healthy plants will produce a quart of strawberries per year. On average, 30 plants will produce enough berries for a family of four.
Recommended Varieties of Strawberries
Types of strawberry Plants:
There are three types of strawberry plants: June Bearing, Ever Bearing and Day Neutral. June Bearing varieties have one large harvest in late spring over a three week period and generally produce larger fruit and more berries per season than the other types. Ever Bearing varieties have two harvests per season and Day Neutral varieties produce fruit throughout the season. June Bearing varieties are great for canning or freezing, whereas Ever Bearing and Day Neutral varieties are good for snacking on throughout the season. Because Ever Bearing and Day Neutral strawberries produce few runners and have multiple harvests that are exhausting on plants, they should be replaced about every 3 years or whenever they seem to produce less fruit.
Picking the right variety for your strawberry patch is the first step to growing a successful strawberry crop. Things to consider in picking a variety are hardiness, yield, disease resistance, berry size, flavor and appearance.
Day Neutral and Ever Bearing Varieties – Selva, Seascape, Tribute, Tristar, Quinault
Soil for Planting Strawberries
Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH range of 5.5 to 6.5. They grow best in fertile, well drained, sandy loam soil. The ground should be tilled six inches deep and compost mixed in. Adding compost to your soil will help improve aeration and drainage and improve moisture holding capacity. Strawberries have a shallow root system and do not compete well with weeds. Till the strawberry bed in the fall to eliminate pests and plant matter that can cause disease.
When to start seeds:
Start seed indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost date for your area. Seeds should be frozen for three to four weeks prior to planting to simulate winter and increase the likelihood of germination. Spread ½ to 1” of seed starter mix in a tray and dampen the soil. Sprinkle seeds over soil and lightly cover with seed starter mix or peat moss so that light can still get through. Cover seeds and place in direct sunlight, keeping soil moist, uncovering occasionally to allow air flow to plants. Once seeds have germinated, remove the cover. Seedlings are strong enough to be safely transplanted when they have 3 or 4 sets of leaves. Depending on the size of your original planting container, you may need to transplant the seedlings into a larger container before they can be planted outside. Seedlings can be transplanted into raised beds, hanging baskets or a strawberry pot, depending on your preferences and space limitations. It takes approximately 3.5 to 4 months from the time you plant the seeds until the plant will begin producing berries, although it is often recommended to remove the flowers from the plant the first year to give the plant energy for a larger production the second year, which would not yield any strawberries in the first year. If planting ever bearing or day neutral varieties, flowers should be removed until the official first day of summer, and then allowed to mature into berries.
When to start plants:
Strawberry plants are typically only available when you should plant them in your area, or will be shipped to your area when they should be planted if ordered from a mail order seed company. When you receive them it is important to plant them right away. If you are unable to plant them right away, store them in a cool location and keep the roots wet, either in a small amount of water or mud. They can be stored in an unheated garage or refrigerator for a short time until you are able to plant them.
It is best to plant strawberry plants outside on a cool, cloudy day and keep plants in a small amount of water in a shady location to protect the roots from exposure to air and direct sunlight. Prune any damaged roots and remove all flowers, runners and old leaves. Thin long roots to about 5 inches in length. Space plants according to the spacing system you’ve chosen for your strawberry patch (see below). Plant about six inches deep with the crown, or thick part in the center of the plant, just below ground level, half of it buried and half above the soil. Be sure to keep roots spread out in a fan and they should be unexposed. Pack soil around roots to avoid air pockets and secure the plant. A thin coat of mulch, such as clean straw around the bottom of the plant will help keep moisture in and provide as a barrier between the plant and the moist soil.
There are several methods to planting strawberries.
This method requires the most work and yields the biggest berries. Set plants 12 inches apart in rows 2 feet apart. All runners are snipped off. You can also plant double or triple rows with 12 inches between each row and 2 feet between double or triple rows and let the runners root. When planting using the hill system, plants must be turned under every two to three years. It is recommended to remove flowers from the plant the first growing season. The second season will be the best harvest when flowers are removed the first season. Decreasing in quantity and quality the following year, some growers choose to replant each year.
Matted Row System:
Mother plants are set out two feet apart and all runner plants are allowed to root, resulting in small berries. Although this is the easiest growing system, quantity and quality of fruits are not the best. The beds formed have about 2-3 inches between plants and a 1 ½ to 2 foot alley between rows should be maintained for plant access.
Spaced Matted Row System:
This is a combination of the hill system and matted row system. With this system, 4 to 6 runners are allowed to root from each mother plant, forming a circle around the plant. The next year, let all runners root, except any that extend into alleys. Varieties that produce fewer runners are best for this planting method, as it is a lot of work the first year keeping the runners thinned. However, the second year this system will yield better berry size and quantity than either the matted row or hill system. This method grows bigger berries than any other method, except the hill system.
Three Row Bed System:
With this planting system, plants are set one foot apart with three feet between rows. Two of the earliest runners are allowed to root, one to the left and one to the right. A hairpin can be used to set the runners, keeping them in a straight line until they root. Once they root, they are severed from the mother plant, which is destroyed the following year. Continue to allow enough runners to root in the following years to keep plants a foot apart. This method eliminates the need for replanting.
|Refrigerate as soon as possible after picking to maximize shelf life. Wash just before eating or preserving.|
|32-36F||90-95%||Up to 7 days|
In the first season the strawberries are planted it is important to maintain a weed free strawberry patch. Flowers should be pinched off as soon as they appear to promote early vigorous plant growth and early formation of runner plants. The first crop should be harvested a year from planting. Runners should be positioned so that they develop a density of approximately 5 plants per square foot. As the plants develop, an additional side dressing of about 1 pound of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 50 foot of row. This may be repeated about a month later if necessary. In late August or early September an additional application of one pound of 12-12-12 per 50 feet of row will be useful in assisting bud formation. Strawberries will benefit from irrigation; they should never suffer from a lack of water. Once the plants are dormant for the winter, apply a 2 inch thick layer of straw or bark mulch. The following spring, the mulch can be raked into the rows.
3-4 months. Strawberries are the best (sweetest) when fully ripened on the plant. It’s best to leave them on the plant for a day or two after they turn red. If unsure of ripeness, give them a taste test. Be gentle when harvesting berries, ripe ones bruise very easily. Snap the stem just above the berry to remove them from the plant. Keep harvested berries out of direct sunlight and get them some place cool, such as a refrigerator as soon as possible after picking to maximize storage time. Strawberries can be eaten fresh or preserved by canning, freezing or dehydrating.
There are around 200 species of pests known to attack strawberries.
- Aphids – A well known pest insect that can quickly settle into soft tissue and damage the plant by sucking sap from just below the leaves. Symptoms include clusters of aphids at plants tips or on the undersides of leaves. In severe cases the plant may begin to wither. Applying soapy water to plants or releasing lady bugs into the garden can help with aphid infestation.
- Birds – A common crop thief that can be easily discouraged by covering the area with cheesecloth, weighted down on the sides to keep it in place
- Crown Borer – Adults are small, brownish red snouted beetles that feed on foliage and berries. Larvae are little, white, legless grubs that tunnel through the crowns. Short of using chemicals, infected beds must be destroyed. When replanting, keep at least 300 feet away from original site.
- Cut Worms – Fleshy green to black striped worms. Cardboard collars can be used to keep the worms from getting to the plants. Also mothballs or blood meal can be spread around the bed. Digging up the ground in early spring will help to expose and kill cut worms.
- Cyclamen Mites – Barely visible white, green or brown mites that feed at the base of plants on leaves and flowers. Spraying the plant forcefully with water, ensuring to spray the undersides of leaves may help to rid this pest.
- Slugs and Snails – Slime trails and irregular holes in fruits are evidence of slugs and/or snails. Use straw as a mulch to serve as a barrier between your plant and the wet soil. Also you can try putting stale beer in pie plates and setting them in the strawberry patch. Slugs will crawl in and drown.
Common diseases of strawberry plants include powdery mildew, leaf spot, leaf blight, slime molds, red stele, verticillium wilt, black root rot, nematodes, gray mold, rhizopus rot, and leather rot to name a few.
If your plant is showing symptoms of disease, such as powdery spots or brownish red spots on leaves, curled leaves, rotten spots on fruits or decreased yields, remove all infected plant matter as soon as possible, preferably when the plant is dry.