- Ask Mr. Smarty Plants
- Perennial Vines
- Self-fertile Hardy Kiwi – Actinidia arguta ‘Issai’
- Tri-Color Kiwi – Actinidia kolomikta ‘Arctic Beauty’
- Dutchman’s Pipe – Aristolochia durior
- Trumpet Vine – Campsis radicans and cultivars
- American Bittersweet – Celastrus scandens
- English Ivy – Hedera helix
- Virginia Creeper – Parthenocissus quinquefolia
- Boston Ivy – Parthenocissus tricuspidata
- Climbing Hydrangea – Hydrangea anomala var. petiolaris
- Honeysuckle – Lonicera sp.
- Perennial Sweet Pea – Lathyrus latifolius
- Kentucky Wisteria – Wisteria macrostachya
- Clematis – Clematis sp.
- Japanese Hydrangea Vine – Schizophragma hydrangeoides ‘Moonlight’
- Hops – Humulus lupulus
- Hyacinth Bean (Lablab purpureus)
- Hyacinth Bean Seed – Red Leaved Hyacinth Vine Flower Seeds
- Purple Hyacinth Bean Care – How To Grow A Hyacinth Bean Vine
- How to Grow a Hyacinth Bean Vine
- When to Pick Purple Hyacinth Bean Seed Pods
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Need help with plant identification, visit the plant identification page.
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Wednesday – July 06, 2011
From: Granville, NY
Topic: Plant Identification, Vines
Title: Identification of a vine with purple flowers
Answered by: Nan Hampton
I’m trying to identify a vine-like plant growing in my yard to determine if it is a weed or should be kept around. It has small purple flowers with a small yellow center, looking like a mini honeysuckle; about the size of a penny. The plant has green berries or seed pods, small, about the size of a pencil eraser. While similar to a vine it has a light colored tan/grey bark.
First of all, remember that one person’s weed is another person’s wildflower. If you like the vine and it isn’t an invasive species, I see no reason why you shouldn’t keep it and enjoy it. Now let’s see if we can figure out what it might be.
If you do (as I did) a COMBINATION SEARCH in our Native Plant Database choosing ‘New York’ from Select State of Province, ‘Vine’ from Habit (general appearance) and ‘Pink’, ‘Blue’, ‘Purple’ and ‘Violet’ from Bloom Characteristics–Color, you will see 20 species of vines native to New York. Here are some from that search that sound a bit like your description:
Clitoria mariana (Atlantic pigeonwings)
Clematis occidentalis var. occidentalis (Purple clematis) and here are more photos.
Lathyrus japonicus (Beach pea) and here are photos and information.
Lathyrus palustris (Marsh pea)
Strophostyles helvola (Amberique-bean) and here are more photos and information.
Vicia americana (American vetch)
There is a good possibility that your plant is not a North American native. Here are a few non-native invasive vines that occur in New York that somewhat like your description. These are ones you would definitely want to remove.
Akebia quinata (chocolate vine)
Jacquemontia tamnifolia (smallflower morningglory)
Lathyrus latifolius (everlasting peavine)
Vicia cracca (bird vetch) and here are photos.
Vicia villosa (hairy vetch) and here are photos.
Vinca minor (common periwinkle)
It is also possible that your vine is non-native, but not considered invasive and I haven’t shown it above. If none of the ones I’ve shown above is your vine, please visit our Plant Identification page to find links to plant identification forums that might be able to help you. All of the identification forum links allow you to submit photos for identification.
From the Image Gallery
Western blue virginsbower
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July 11, 2012 – I’m interested in identifying the vine shown by the leaf in this photo: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zR3R4JSPYcCI4ESczNXWM4h8z33Cq5cyZNqSSYf9hx0?feat=directlink My mother-in-law got one o…
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There are numerous perennial vines that can add a permanent landscape feature to your garden. When choosing vines listed as perennial, make sure that they are listed as hardy for your planting zone. These vines come back year after year and when properly handled, continue to offer attractive foliage and flowers.
Self-fertile Hardy Kiwi – Actinidia arguta ‘Issai’
A large, vigorous twining vine growing up to 25-30 feet. Prefers a full sun location. Produces fragrant, white flowers in May-June followed by small, green edible fruit that is produced without the need for both male and female plants. Prune right after flowering if needed to control size. May limit potential fruit production however. Hardy kiwi is more valued for its ornamental purposes than its ability to produce useable fruit.
Tri-Color Kiwi – Actinidia kolomikta ‘Arctic Beauty’
Interesting variegated form of kiwi growing to a compact size of about 12 feet. This twining vine has intriguing white flushed with pink variegations on large, oval leaves. Young, newly planted vines may show very little variegation. It may take up to 3 years to show variegation. As vines age variegation becomes more prominent. Fragrant white flowers in May followed by small, gooseberry-like fruit. Because of the variegation, the vine is best grown where it receives light shade to protect the variegated leaves from scorching in hot sun. The vine may also be trained vertically as a specimen plant for the garden. Best variegation is achieved when the plants are not overly fertilized.
Dutchman’s Pipe – Aristolochia durior
An extremely vigorous twining vine growing to 25-30 feet with large rounded, dark green leaves. Because of its size it will need a substantial support. Will grow in full sun to shade. Flowering in May-June, the unique flowers are greenish-yellow and shaped like a meerschaum pipe. Unfortunately, the flowers often go overlooked as they are buried under the large foliage canopy. Makes a good screen. Prune in late winter to control growth. Prefers a moist soil location.
Trumpet Vine – Campsis radicans and cultivars
A rapid, vigorous growing vine climbing by both aerial roots and twining. Grows to 30-40 feet. Will grow in sun to light shade with best flowering in full sun. Because of its vigor this vine will need a substantial support. Large compound green leaves that look almost tropical. Flowers are orange-scarlet, 3 inches long, tube-shaped and showy from July-September. Attractive to hummingbirds and butterflies. After flowering, long, bean-shaped pods are produced that often persist through the winter. Trumpet vine may not flower for several years after planting until it becomes well established in the garden. Looks best when given moisture during dry periods in the garden. Trumpet vine will sucker freely in the garden so use caution about its use in small space gardens. Suckering can be “controlled” by timely removal of suckers by digging as they appear. Also tends to reseed so pull out seedlings as they appear. Vine tolerates heavy pruning in late winter or early spring. This is suggested in order to keep it under control and maintain quality.
- Campsis radicans ‘Flava’ Yellow flowered trumpet vine growing to 20-40 feet
- Campsis radicans ‘Minnesota Red’ Deep red velvety flowering trumpet vine growing to 30 feet
- Campsis x tagliabuana ‘Mme Galen’ Deep apricot flowered trumpet vine. Flowers 3 inches – long and 3 inches wide. Grows to 15-20 feet
- Campsis radicans ‘Stromboli’ Dark red buds open to orange flowers. Grows to 20-30 feet
American Bittersweet – Celastrus scandens
American bittersweet is a vigorous twining vine growing to 10-20 feet. It is preferred over the invasive oriental bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus). A full sun to light shade location is preferred. Reddish-yellow capsules open in early autumn to expose red-orange berries. Prune in late winter or early spring. Both male and female plants are needed to produce the attractive berries and many times sexed plants of the species are not available at garden centers. And since only the female plant will bear the attractive fruit, both a male and female plant needs to be in the vicinity to insure pollination and fruit production. To make sure you have one of each sex in the area, look for named cultivars such as ‘Diana’ (female) and ‘Hercules’ (male) or ‘Indian Maiden’ (female) and ‘Indian Brave’ (male). To make insuring attractive fruit even easier there are now cultivars that are self-fruitful so you need only one plant and not two for fruit production. Look for Celastrus scandens ‘Bailumn’ Autumn Revolution™ or Celastrus scandens ‘Swtazam’ Sweet Tangerine®. Berry size and production on both are extraordinarily large.
English Ivy – Hedera helix
English ivy is a vigorous vine attaching by aerial roots and growing 50+ feet long. It is an evergreen to semi-evergreen depending on where it is grown, and the severity of the winter. In open locations and where it is exposed to more wind, the foliage tends to turn brown. New foliage will regrow in the spring. English ivy benefits from regular pruning in the spring to control growth which can become aggressive at times. The vine is also a good groundcover. It prefers a part to full shade location. More sun and wind exposure results in discoloration of the foliage during the winter. Cultivars to look for include ‘Thorndale’ with glossy, dark green foliage and ‘Wilson’ a small leaved form good for small space gardens. Variegated forms often need extra winter protection for survivability and their hardiness is often questionable.
Virginia Creeper – Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Virginia Creeper is a vigorous vine growing to 50+ feet and attaching by both tendrils and holdfasts. Large five-parted leaves are purple color in the spring, and then change to a dull green during the growing season. It then turns a brilliant red in the fall. The inconspicuous flowers develop into clusters of blue-black pea-sized berries that are often eaten by birds. Virginia creeper is tolerant of drought and grows in full sun to shade locations. This vine can also be used as a groundcover or allowed to trail off of retaining walls. This vine is often mistaken for poison ivy that has three-parted leaves. Heavy pruning in the spring may be needed to keep this aggressive vine in check. ‘Engelman’ is a cultivar that is less vigorous, has small leaves and good for small spaces. ‘Star Showers’ is a variegated cultivar.
Boston Ivy – Parthenocissus tricuspidata
Boston Ivy is a dense vine growing to 50+ feet and attaching itself by means of holdfasts (adhesive disks). This is the classic vine seen on buildings associated with “ivy league” schools. The three parted leaves are a glossy green during the growing season and change to a brilliant red-orange in the fall. It produces blue-black berries favored by birds. It grows in full sun to shade locations and will need attention to annual pruning in the spring to keep it from covering architectural features on structures. Cultivars to look for are ‘Fenway Park’, a golden leaved form of Boston ivy and ‘Lowii’ a very small leaved and slower growing form for small space gardens. ‘Green Showers’ offers lime-green foliage.
Climbing Hydrangea – Hydrangea anomala var. petiolaris
Climbing Hydrangea is an exceptional vine for both its foliage and flowering qualities. Foliage is glossy green with large (8-10 inches in diameter), fragrant, white, lacecap flowers produced in late June early July and are attractive to butterflies. Vine climbs by means of aerial roots and clings well to masonry. Very attractive peeling orange-brown bark for winter interest and color. Grows best in sun to light shade. May be slow to start flowering until it becomes established. Once established it is a vigorous growing vine reaching 40-50 feet. Prune in late winter to keep it under control. The cultivar ‘Miranda’ has attractive lime-green variegated foliage. It’s flowers are smaller, and the vine also tends to be smaller.
Honeysuckle – Lonicera sp.
As a group, honeysuckle vines are vigorous, twining vines growing from 10-20 feet tall. Most all offer fragrant flowers from June-July that are attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Many also offer attractive foliage and berries. All benefit from heavy pruning in late winter to keep them from becoming overgrown and tangled and to maintain their foliage and flowering quality. Best in full sun locations but will tolerate shaded sites. It is suggested that Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) not be planted due to its invasive nature. Look for natives or interspecific hybrids as better choices. As a way to tell the Japanese honeysuckle from other honeysuckles look for the following features. With native honeysuckles flowers are borne at the tips of the stems followed by red or orange berries. The leaves are fused or united to form a “collar” around the stem. With Japanese honeysuckle flowers are borne in the leaf axils followed by purple-black berries. The leaves are not fused or united around the stem.
See more honeysuckle vines…
Perennial Sweet Pea – Lathyrus latifolius
Perennial sweet pea is a vigorous vine growing 9-12 feet tall and attaching by tendrils. It does best in full sun and blooms July-August. It is drought tolerant and provides flowers in the heat of the summer when annual sweet peas fail. Flowers are fragrant and make good cut flowers. Perennial sweet pea will reseed and sucker freely in the garden. Prune very hard in early spring.
Kentucky Wisteria – Wisteria macrostachya
This wisteria is very similar to American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens). It is a twining vine growing to 20-25 feet and needs a very substantial support as it becomes a very large and heavy vine over time. It is less aggressive than some of the other wisteria. It produces long (8-12 inches) fragrant, pendant-like flowers in June with some rebloom late in the season. After flowering, long bean-like seed pods are produced. Prefers a sun location. Wisterias are slow to establish and even slower to start blooming. Three or more years is not uncommon. Failure to bloom is often linked to plants being too young, winter kill of flower buds, too much shade, overfertilization, or improper pruning. Pruning should be kept to a minimum, right after flowering or in late winter. Once established, plants do not like to be transplanted. ‘Blue Moon’ is a cultivar from Minnesota that has fragrant blue flowers and is extremely hardy. While American wisteria flowers are smaller (4-6 inches long) the cultivar ‘Amethyst Falls’ is a good garden selection.
Clematis – Clematis sp.
Clematis is perhaps the most popular and most often planted perennial vine. The success with clematis starts with picking the right location, preparing the planting site, proper planting, and proper pruning. Clematis prefers a full sun to part shade location. A site that gets 4-5 hours of sun a day is suggested. The soil should be well drained and amended with ample amounts of organic matter. Prepare a planting site that is 18” X 18” X 18” in size and work in ample amounts of organic matter such as compost. Plants should be planted lower than they are growing in the container. It is suggested that the plants be set so the first two sets of leaf nodes are underground. This will encourage the plant to send up more stems resulting in a denser plant. Newly planted clematis should be pruned back to 12 inches in the spring following planting. Again, this will encourage a denser, fuller plant. Apply a 2-4 inch layer of mulch around the plant keeping it about 4-6 inches from the stem. This helps maintain cool soil temperatures that clematis prefer for best root growth. Pruning clematis has always seemed to be a mystery. It is based upon the blooming period for the variety. Clematis are divided into three pruning groups designated as group A, B, and C or sometimes 1, 2, and 3. Every clematis is put into one of these groups. Because you need to know the name of the clematis you have in order to prune correctly, you need to make sure you save the plant label that comes with the plant and somehow keep it with the plant or record the name of the clematis in your garden diary.
Group A clematis produce flowers from the mature growth that was produced last season. Light pruning to remove any dead stems and to neaten up the plant is all that is needed. Allow the plants to finish blooming in spring before you do any heavy pruning. This will put pruning into late spring or very early summer. This will allow enough time for the plant to produce new growth that will flower next season.
Group B clematis produce flowers on both old and new growth. The first flush of bloom is in early June with a repeat later in the season. Clematis in this group don’t need major pruning. When you do prune go slowly. Prune dead or weak growth and then lightly prune after the early flush of bloom. This helps to maximize blooming later in the year.
Group C clematis tolerate the most severe pruning as they produce flowers on the current seasons growth and tend to flower mid to late summer or very early fall. Many of these clematis benefit from very severe pruning in the spring. Cut back to 8-12 inches removing the tangled mass of stems produced last season. Doing this cleans up the plant and allows for many more vigorous shoots resulting in a fuller, cleaner plant covered with flowers.
Because of the extremely large numbers of good clematis varieties to choose from here is a sample of a few to consider:
- ‘Jackmanii’ – An all-time classic that is dependable and easy to take care of. Produces purple flowers in June, July with light repeat bloom through the later part of the season. Pruning group C
- ‘Comtesse de Bouchard’ – Very vigorous clematis and one of the more popular pink varieties. Blooms in July-August. Pruning group C
- ‘Cardinal Wyszynski’ – Large crimson flowers. Free flowering blooming in July, Aug, September. Pruning group B
- ‘Vyvyan Pennell’ – Outstanding double flowering clematis. Double flowers are produced on last season’s growth, single flowers produced on current season’s growth. Pruning group B
- Sweet Autumn Clematis – A dependable, vigorous late blooming clematis. Fragrant. Benefits from very severe pruning. Pruning group C
- Clematis tangutica – Small flowered species type. Robust, heat and drought tolerant. Blooms July-October. Produces very attractive seed heads. Pruning group C
- ‘Roguchi’ – Clematis with a very long flowering season blooming from June – September
Japanese Hydrangea Vine – Schizophragma hydrangeoides ‘Moonlight’
While not a true hydrangea this vine produces lacecap hydrangea-like white blooms, 6-8 inches in diameter in July. Vine grows 20-25 feet tall and climbs by means of aerial roots. The attractive heart-shaped leaves take on a silvery, pewter appearance. Best in part to full shade. This vine is slow growing and may take a few years to flower. Prune in late winter. Reddish-brown stems offer winter interest.
Hops – Humulus lupulus
A very fast growing, twining, herbaceous perennial vine growing to about 15-20 feet. This vine will die back to soil line each year so old growth needs to be pruned away prior to the start of spring growth. Produces attractive yellow-green cone shaped flower structures. Best in full sun to part shade. Hops have a tendency to produce suckers that can get into other areas of the garden. Cultivars to look for are ‘Aureus’ that has showy yellow foliage and ‘Nugget’ with very dark green foliage.
Hyacinth Bean (Lablab purpureus)
Some people may be more familiar with the name Dolichos lablab, which is a former name for the hyacinth bean. Now named Lablab purpureus, the hyacinth bean is a twining vine that can reach more that 30 feet in length in the tropics where it is never killed to the ground. In tropical areas it is a short-lived, herbaceous perennial. In my Zone 8b garden and other areas where freezing weather is a factor, it is grown as an annual and rarely grows more than 10 or so feet tall with a spread of 3 to 6 feet.
The hyacinth bean is assigned to the pea (Fabaceae) family by most taxonomists, but some place it in Papilionaceae. The plant has purplish green leaves, each with three leaflets (trifoliate). Each leaflet is 3 to 6 inches long and shaped like a broad oval or loose triangle.
Attractive bean-like flowers may be purple, white, rose, or reddish in color, and they are borne in racemes (a flower cluster in which the flowers are borne on short stalks along a long main stem). Following the flowers are the beans that are from 3 to 6 inches long and have the familiar flat, curved shape of butterbeans. On the purple selections beans and flowers are held out above the foliage by long, purple stems. The purple coloring is not present on the plants with white flowers.
Growing Hyacinth Bean
Hyacinth bean grows in almost any soil, including poor, acidic or alkaline. Performance is best in full sun, but adequate results can be had in a part sun location as long as the soil is well drained. Once established, it is very drought tolerant. Propagation is easy from seeds. If seeds are soaked overnight in water, germination is very quick. Beans take anywhere from 90 to 150 days to reach maturity but can be picked earlier for tender, cooked beans.
Uses of Hyacinth Bean
In many parts of the world, hyacinth bean is cultivated as a food plant. It is an important food source in tropical regions of Africa and Asia. In the United States, it is more likely to be grown as an ornamental. Reports are mixed as to its flavor. Like other members of the bean family, it fixes nitrogen, which makes it a good cover crop. It is also sometimes used as fodder for livestock.
While it is a great annual vine for covering trellises, walls, or fences, it has escaped cultivation and established in some natural areas, including south Florida, so caution is advised in tropical areas. The vine can clamber over the ground and make an effective groundcover, or it can be grown in containers or vegetable gardens.
All parts of the hyacinth bean can be eaten. The young beans can be boiled and eaten like other butterbeans, but they are reportedly very “beany” flavored. It is recommended that the dried seeds be boiled in two changes of water before they are eaten due to toxic levels of cyanogenic glucosides which can cause vomiting, difficulty breathing, and convulsions if large amounts are consumed. Young leaves can be eaten raw or in salads, and older leaves can be cooked like turnips or other greens. The flowers are an attractive and tasty addition to tossed salads, or they can be steamed. Tubers are produced that can be boiled or baked. The beans also make bean sprouts that are nutritious.
Not surprisingly, the handsome clusters of bright purple beans on long stems has value in the cut flower market. For this purpose, the stems are cut when all fruit on a stem is mature enough that the pod is swollen with its developing seeds. The stems last about 10 days in tap water treated with a floral preservative.
Two cultivars are widely grown as crops. ‘Highworth’ from South India matures at an early age and has purple flowers and black seeds. ‘Rongai’, originating in Kenya, is a late-maturing cultivar that has white flowers and light brown seeds. Other cultivars are also available that have been developed primarily for the ornamental plant industry, including selections that are dwarf or have other desirable or attractive attributes, such as red flowers or longer beans. Some are grown primarily for the pods while others are grown for the edible tuberous roots.
The value of the hyacinth bean as a crop is worth exploring in areas of the world where food shortages exist. It grows in almost any well-drained soil, and every part is edible. It could possibly improve the quality of life for many people. Most assuredly, it will add beauty to your garden that lasts throughout the summer season.
Thanks to DonnaMack, Jules_jewel, morganc, and rylaff for the use of their images.
Hyacinth Bean Seed – Red Leaved Hyacinth Vine Flower Seeds
USDA Zones: 9 – 11
Height: 96 inches
Bloom Season: Mid summer to fall
Bloom Color: Purple
Environment: Full sun
Soil Type: Soil can by sandy or clayish, well drained soil, pH 4.5 – 7.5
Temperature: 65 – 70F
Average Germ Time: 10 – 20 days
Light Required: No
Depth: 1/2 inch – 1 inch deep
Sowing Rate: 2 seeds per plant
Moisture: Keep seeds moist until germination
Plant Spacing: 12 inches
Care & Maintenance: Hyacinth Bean
Hyacinth Bean (Dolichos Lablab Redleaved) – For a gorgeous vine and foliage, start Hyacinth Bean seeds. This vine is especially lovely with deep red leaves. Red Leaved Hyacinth Bean is a fast-growing, climbing vine, producing dark crimson red foliage and deep purple flowers. Lablab seeds produce a quick screen on a trellis or fence. Its flowers are beautiful and fragrant which and attract butterflies and hummingbirds, and it even produces edible leaves, flowers, pods, seeds and roots. Dry Lablab seeds are poisonous due to high concentrations of cyanogenic glucosides, and can only be eaten after prolonged boiling. Chinese and Indian herbalists use the vine as a medicinal herb.
How To Grow Hyacinth Bean Vine: Many gardeners recommend nicking the Hyacinth Bean seeds with a knife and then soaking the flower seed in water for 24 hours before sowing. Planting Hyacinth Bean seeds can be done directly outside once danger of frost has passed. Lablab typically blooms from mid summer to fall. The vine can be a perennial in frost-free climate zones; however, in other zones it grows as an annual climbing vine.
Purple Hyacinth Bean Care – How To Grow A Hyacinth Bean Vine
A vigorous ornamental annual vine, purple hyacinth bean plant (Dolichos lablab or Lablab purpurea), displays beautiful pinkish-purple blossoms and interesting reddish-purple pods that grow to be about the same size as lima bean pods. The hyacinth bean plant adds loads of color and interest to any garden right through fall.
Thomas Jefferson’s favorite nurseryman Bernard McMahon sold hyacinth bean vine plants to Jefferson in 1804. Because of this, the hyacinth bean is also known as Jefferson bean. These fabulous heirloom plants are now featured at Monticello in the Colonial kitchen garden.
How to Grow a Hyacinth Bean Vine
Purple hyacinth beans are not fussy about soil type but do best when planted in
full sun. These vigorous growers do require a sturdy support that is at least 10 to 15 feet high. Many gardeners grow this lovely vine on a sturdy trellis, fence or arbor.
Seeds can be sown directly outdoors once the threat of frost has passed. Seeds can also be started indoors several weeks before the weather warms. Transplants are best when planted on the small side.
Once planted, these low maintenance plants require very little care. Provide regular water for transplants and seedlings for best results.
When to Pick Purple Hyacinth Bean Seed Pods
Although purple hyacinth beans are used as a forage crop in some parts of the world, they are not recommended for eating, as they have to be cooked a very particular way. Instead, they are best enjoyed as an ornamental plant in the landscape. For those wanting to grow additional plants, the seed pods can be harvested. Therefore, knowing when to pick purple hyacinth bean seed pods is helpful.
Once the flower dies away, the pods begin to take on significant size. The best time to harvest the bean seedpods is just prior to your first frost. Seeds are easy to keep, and you can use them next year in the garden. Seeds can be easily removed from dried seedpods for storage.