Predatory mites for sale

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Buy Predatory Mites Online for Spider Mite Control – Special Blend of Mites

Buy Predatory Mites Online for Spider Mite Control

Due to high demand for spider mite predators, we have listened to our customer feedback and researched the best spider mite control options to develop the ultimate pest eliminator. Our “special blend” consists of three predatory mite species ( M. longipes, N. californicus, and P. persimilis) and is the perfect solution for all growing conditions. This blend takes the guess work out of which mite should be used in your garden, green house, or grow room. These mites can tolerate temperatures up to 95 degrees but do best between 60-85 degrees. Buy Predatory Mites Online and deal with your organic spider mite control needs today! We ship all of our beneficial bugs in one day air or 2nd day air so that we can guarantee they’re alive and healthy when they arrive.

RELEASE INSTRUCTIONS: Once you have your predatory mites at home you should release them immediately. Predatory mites cannot be stored. This blend of mites is tailored for use in unknown growing conditions and are therefore highly adaptable.These mites can tolerate temperatures up to 95 degrees, but do best in lower temperatures. To release, shake out contents on infested plants after diagnosing spider mite hot spots of infestation. Release insects and a insect:pest ratio of 1:5. Repeat this kind of release bi-weekly 2-3 times or until the predatory mites have dominated the infested area.

RELEASE RATES: *Note: These rates are for preventative control only, multiple releases and/or higher quantities are necessary for heavier infestations.

Live insects are guaranteed live delivery! (If shipping outside of California, it may take up to 4-6 business days to arrive)

QUANTITY PER PACKAGE APPROX. COVERAGE
500 2,000 sq. ft.
1,000 4,000 sq. ft.

Persimilis

Description

Phytoseiulus persimilis

Persimilis is a voracious feeder on all stages of two-spotted mite, a major pest of many crops. It is one of the world’s most commonly reared natural enemies and has been produced commercially in Australia for over 25 years. This beneficial mite has been used successfully in many situations including strawberries, greenhouse crops and deciduous fruits. The adult predatory mite is orange, while the younger stages are clear.

Both forms are pear-shaped and fast-moving. Persimilis eggs are oval, tinged with orange and twice the size of spider mite eggs. Adult persimilis feed on two-spotted mite eggs, young and adults. Even though persimilis are only slightly larger than the mites on which they feed, an adult can destroy twenty young or seven adult two-spotted mites per day. Juvenile stages of persimilis feed on eggs and larvae of spider mites. At a temperature of 25°C, the predatory mites multiply twice as fast as their prey.

Target pests

  • Two-spotted mite Tetranychus urticae
  • Bean spider mite Tetranychus ludeni

Pests controlled by persimilis include two-spotted mite, the major target pest, and the less important bean red spider mite. Both belong to a group of eight-legged, plant- feeding mites called spider mites. Two-spotted mite is a major pest of many crops in a range of climates.

Two-spotted mites are usually pale green with two dark patches on their back. In cold weather, however, they may turn red. The adults are about 0.5 mm in length and are best viewed with a hand lens. Their eggs are round and pearly white.

Two-spotted mites prefer the underside of leaves. They suck out the leaf cells, causing minute yellowish feeding marks that may join together, causing leaves to shrivel and die. This pest is difficult to control by chemical means because of its short life cycle and resistance to chemicals. It is also difficult to obtain good spray coverage on many crops.

Suitable crops/environments

Persimilis does well in humid areas and in crops with heavy foliage. It has been used successfully in many crops, including papaws, strawberries, cut flowers, hops, raspberries, capsicum, eggplant, tomatoes, greenhouse vegetables, ornamentals, blackcurrants, pome fruit, stone fruit and grapes, as well as in field crops such as corn and soybeans.

Before release

Chemical residues toxic to predatory mites must have time to degrade before persimilis are released. Synthetic pyrethroids and some organophosphates may need up to eight weeks to break down.

There is a range of less hazardous chemicals which are preferred if spraying is necessary. Contact suppliers for detailed information on the toxicity of chemical residues.

Inspect crops regularly for the presence of mites, especially on the windward side, in dry spots and at edges. Introduce predators while infestation of two-spotted mite is still in its early stages. For instance, in strawberries, predators should be introduced when four out of thirty full leaves have mites present.

Check the surrounding vegetation for sources of spider mite and treat these areas as well. If a hot spot is detected early and treated quickly, the predators will move from that spot and follow the mites as they spread. Details of the best timing and method of release for various crops are available from suppliers.

If overhead irrigation is required it should be applied before introducing predators rather than shortly after. Likewise, if it is raining or rain seems imminent, delay release until the plants are dry. Predators can be stored at 7 – 10°C for up to three days.

At release

Persimilis are mixed with vermiculite and despatched in cardboard tubes containing at least 10 000 predators. Roll the tubes gently before release to ensure even distribution within the mix. Remove the end cap, take away the breathable cloth and replace the cap to use as a shaker. Distribute the contents of each tube over the foliage of the infested plants according to our recommended release rates (see below). During release keep an eye out for obvious ‘hot-spots’ and be prepared to place additional Persimilis in these areas.

Recommended release rates

  • Field crops: minimum one tube of 10,000 mites per 1,000 – 2,000 m2.
  • Strawberries: minimum one tube of 10,000 mites per 3,000 – 5,000 plants.
  • Ornamentals and cut flowers: minimum one tube of 10,000 mites per 200 – 500 m2.

A note on release rates: Unlike chemicals which generally exhibit a clearly defined dose response curve, with beneficial insects, more is always better. However, they are costly to produce and the goal should be to achieve the best results at minimal cost. We are constantly trying to strike a balance between cost and efficacy. There are many factors that should be considered including the value of the crop, the magnitude of the pest population and the activity (or otherwise) of naturally occurring beneficial species. Also unlike chemicals, where it is common to respond to pest populations that have already exceeded some ‘economic threshold’, we recommend establishing beneficials early in the life of the crop before pest populations reach threatening levels. In most cases our releases are inoculative and we anticipate that our beneficials will establish and breed up within the crop to give long term control. As a general principle, 2-3 releases of modest numbers is better than a single large release – this reduces risk, improves establishment and accelerates the development of multiple overlapping generations of the beneficial species.

After release

Persimilis will be difficult to find for a week or so after introduction. They disperse quickly in search of food. Mark a few places where predatory mites were released, especially those with good numbers of spider mites. These sites can be regularly checked to assess spider mite numbers as well as establishment of predatory mites. Expect spider mite numbers to keep increasing at first.

Reinfestation by spider mites can occur, especially in greenhouse crops. Predatory mites may still be present in low numbers and may increase to quell the outbreak, often unnoticed by the grower.
Regular checks should be maintained to assess the presence or absence of both spider mites and predators.

Many cut-flower growers and nurseries have adopted the regular release (dribble) method of introducing predators. This ensures that there are always predators present to move into any new mite infestations.

Cultural practices to aid establishment

Persimilis thrives in warm to hot, humid conditions, whereas two-spotted mite does best in very hot, dry conditions. Plants close together or with dense foliage will automatically provide a microclimate favourable to predators.

Plants or varieties with a more open habit or plants exposed to wind are less favoured by predators. Such areas should be checked regularly for mites, especially during hot, dry conditions. Some overhead watering will improve the environment for predators during dry periods.

Chemical use

Care should be taken with the use of chemicals. As a general rule insecticides should be avoided until two weeks after releasing persimilis. Fungicides (except Benlate, Morestan and Afugan) generally have low toxicity to persimilis.

Persimilis are usually found under the lower leaves where two-spotted mites gather, so if sprays of low to moderate toxicity are applied to the upper foliage, predators may not be greatly affected.

If, despite releasing persimilis, two-spotted mite increases to damaging proportions, a compatible miticide can be applied to reduce mite numbers. This will allow the predators to catch up and eliminate the remaining mites. Spot spraying is preferable to blanket spraying. Bifenazate (Acramite), Fenbutatin oxide (Torque), hexythiazox (Calibre) and propargite (Omite) are the safest miticides to use with persimilis.

Additional information

Persimilis is not suitable for controlling mites in tree crops in dry climates. The mite typhlodromus is suitable for such conditions.

Other natural enemies of two-spotted mite

  • Black ladybird Stethorus fenestralis
  • Native predatory mites Amblyseius spp
  • Predatory mite Typhlodromus occidentalis
  • Predatory thrips Scolothrips sexmaculatus
  • Ladybird beetles Coccinella repanda and Harmonia conformis
  • Hoverfly larvae Syrphus spp

Of the dozens of different plant parasites which may plague an indoor garden, one of the most infamous, talked about, and feared is Tetranychida urtica — more commonly known as the two-spotted spider mite, or red spider mite. As luck would have it, these arachnids are also among the most common pests in indoor gardens. They are found everywhere. Native to Eurasia, they can now be found worldwide, particularly in controlled agriculture settings.

An infestation of spider mites can lead to a host of garden problems. Even a few mites can lead to increased plant stress and thus decreased plant health and yield. Affected leaves will be stippled with white. These white spots are cells which a mite has pierced, fed upon and killed. Leaf margins and tips will often curl down and inward, concealing and protecting the mites and their eggs.

A close inspection of the undersides of such leaves will often reveal a small amount of webbing containing perhaps dozens of tiny, white, spherical eggs and minuscule, translucent yellow, red, or brown to black mites.

Although the mites’ initial assault may seem innocuous, their tiny size and ability to reproduce very quickly compounds the issue. As the pests themselves are difficult to spot, a gardener can easily miss the subtle signs of initial infestation if he or she does not closely inspect their garden each day. A less vigilant gardener might overlook these signs until leaves are already yellowing, dying and dropping off and the plants are covered in highways of webbing, not to mention hundreds or thousands of very mobile, very hungry mites.

So, we get that spider mites are common, elusive, and destructive. How do we get rid of spider mites? Or better yet, how do we prevent spider mites from infiltrating our gardens in the first place? If you are diligent about prevention, eradication may not be necessary.

Mites are generally brought into the garden by none other than the gardener himself. Out doing yard work before tending to your indoor garden? Mites can ride in on clothing, hair, or any outdoor materials you bring in with you. For this reason, it is important to ensure that your clothes, hands, hair, etc. are clean before entering your garden space. As a gardener we know once said, “I get right down to my skivvs before I even set foot in my garden!” I’m sure he feels liberated, too, but more importantly, his garden is virtually pest-free.

We often hear gardeners complain, “I didn’t have spider mites until I took these clones from my friend/brother/sister/Airedale, but he/she said they were clean!” Maybe they were clean and mites were introduced another way, but this “coincidence” is all too common. We’ve discussed how minuscule and easy to miss mites and their eggs can be, but it is also important to know that mites can lie dormant when conditions are unfavorable, only to re-emerge when they think they may have a better chance at survival. When receiving any new plants or cuttings, keep them in a separate quarantine area for the first week or two. This will keep any pests away from your garden while you watch carefully for their appearance on your new cuttings. Check daily for any signs of pests like those shown in the images above, and treat if necessary,

In a perfect world, we would never have to treat for mites. Many of the gardeners we talk to are currently fighting a mite population (again), or recently were. Most, if not all, have at one point or another. Let’s run down some of the control methods and their varying effectiveness.

Showers

Yes, showers. Running water and running water only, maybe with a drop or two of Dr. Bronner’s or dish soap. Say you’ve returned to your garden after a weekend away. Your plants are all good on water and nutes; no one has grown into the lights. Things are looking good, save for the webs and mites covering the canopy. Oops. In a situation like this, it can be useful to shower the plants off in order to wash off the worst of the mites and protective webbing. This is not a standalone treatment. You will not be able to remove all the mites and eggs in this fashion. There are far, far too many sheltered hiding places within a plant’s canopy. But it’s a good start before you move on to the next step.

General Purpose Insecticides

Potassium-based insecticidal soaps and pyrethrins sprays such as Doktor Doom foggers, are widely available and largely safe to use. They serve well as a temporary population control method, with two distinct drawbacks: the mites can quickly build up resistance to such mild pesticides and these sprays do not kill the eggs.

Other, heavier-duty miticides are available as well, such as bifenazate. Most of these are heavily regulated—they may not be applied by non-certified personnel, may not be shipped to or used in certain states, and are incredibly toxic to fish and other aquatic animals. Because of the hazards to people and animals alike, associated with the application, presence, and runoff of these chemicals, we cannot and do not recommend their use, particularly on consumable crops and certainly not in your home.

“Specialized” Spider Mite Sprays

There are many sprays marketed mainly or solely for the eradication of mites. Nuke ‘Em, SNS217, Mite-X, and Ultimate Wash all fall into this category.

Mite-X and SNS217 are oil-based sprays which effectively kill mites and their eggs, and work (somewhat) to repel mites as well. Each works exceptionally well when sprayed as per the labeled directions. Both are exempt from FEPA pesticide labeling regulations as ‘minimum-risk pesticides.’

NPK, the manufacturer of Ultimate Wash, lists their undisclosed active ingredients at 0.1665% (comparative to the active percentage in many pyrethrins-based sprays.) They claim that a ‘frequency’ applied to the water contained in Ultimate Wash renders it a safe and effective pesticide, and it does not contain any harmful additives or chemicals. While I am skeptical of their ‘frequency water’ explanation, Ultimate Wash is nonetheless very effective at eradicating mites and their eggs.

Nuke ‘Em, despite the ominous name, is also FEPA-exempt, containing only organic, food-grade materials. Despite its innocuous constituents, Nuke ‘Em is one of our favorite treatments for both spider mites and powdery mildew. It is only available as a concentrate, so a small bottle goes a long way!

Predators

If more integrated, non-chemical control methods are more your speed, there are several predator species which snack on spider mites that are available commercially. Stethorus punctillums, a small, black beetle related to the ladybug, can consume many mites and eggs daily and can potentially establish a breeding population in your garden. Mites in the Phytoseiulus genus (P. persimilis, P. longipes, etc) are predatory, rather than plant-eating, and will readily consume spider mites and their eggs. Other useful predator mite species, frequently available by mail order, include A. californicus, G. accidentalus, M. longipes, A. fallicus, and N. californicus. Depending on your sources, Minute pirate bugs (Orius spp.), big-eyed bugs (Geocoris spp.) and predatory thrips (Leptothrips spp.) may also be available as control measures.

In conclusion, perhaps the old adage says it best: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Prevent! But when the inevitable happens, get on top of it fast. Don’t hesitate to contact us with any questions.

Clover Mites

How do I get rid of clover mites?

Clover mites can be a particularly difficult pest to eradicate. That’s because they they tend to infest homes in significant numbers. It is important to locate and seal potential entry points around the home. However, because clover mites are so tiny, they will get through even the smallest of openings. Treating clover mites is typically done from the exterior with a residual insecticide, paying special attention to doors and windows. Sometimes pest control technicians will spread a granular material onto the grass or mulch within 1 foot of the foundation. Contact us today to learn more about our clover mite control in Washington D.C., Baltimore, and throughout Maryland and Virginia.

Can I do it myself?

Do-it-yourself methods of clover mite control are rarely successful. Many of the over-the-counter pesticide products available for consumers to buy are not an adequate means to control clover mites. That’s because they are not customized or suited to treat the particular species you are having a problem with. American Pest’s trained pest control professionals seek out and eradicate clover mites that are residing in or around your home and property. Oftentimes, this eliminates the need to use pesticides on the interior of the home.

How soon can you get here?

At American Pest, we pride ourselves on our speed and delivery of service. For that reason we make every effort to be with you the same or very next day.

Is the treatment safe?

We put your health and safety first: every product used by American Pest has been registered by the EPA for pest control use. We then follow a strict set of guidelines in every application of product to ensure that no harm will come to your family or pets. Furthermore, our state-accredited training and continuing education programs set us above the rest. All our pest control professionals are registered and licensed by the state or local jurisdictions where we provide service. Many have achieved Applicator Certification under the category of Industrial, Institutional, Structural and Heath Related pest management.

How can I prevent this in the future?

Preventing clover mites from invading your property can be difficult. You can reduce the number of instances by creating an area between your foundation and lawn that is free of grass and weeds. An 18-20″ gravel or stone barrier between the lawn and the foundation will help reduce the incidences of clover mites.

Also, sealing any cracks around windows and doors with caulking materials can help deter these nuisance pests. It won’t necessarily resolve the entire problem.

American Pest professionals will consult with you to provide a customizable solution to your tiny red bug problem using our S.T.A.R. system of integrated pest management.

First of all you need to figure out if the “little red spiders” are clover mites or red spider mites. Clover mites are relatively harmless while red spider mites are a garden pest that you will need to control.

In late spring to early summer you tend to see the “little red spiders” and what you see are most likely Clover mites (Bryobia praetiosa). They are small, reddish mites, about the size of a pin head and usually moving around very quickly. If you would happen to crush one of them, they can leave a red stain. Clover mites are sometimes confused with red spider mites. Clover mites generally live and feed in grass and for the most part remain unnoticed. Every once in a while populations can get very large and the mites start to migrate from the grass. They are not harmful to people or pets and will not harm your plants or lawn. Clover mites are generally just a nuisance.

Burger Farm and Garden recommends using Bug Blaster Bifenthrin 2.4 to control Clover Mites.

Red Spider Mites

Red Spider Mites however are garden pests that affect a wide variety of plants. A plant that is infested by red spider mites will start to look unhealthy and will have a dusty appearance to the undersides of their leaves. Close inspection will reveal that the dust is actually moving and is in fact the spider mites. The plant may also have some webbing on the underside or on the branches of plant. The best way to control red spider mites is through the use of insecticidal soaps and oils. Applications of these products should be applied every 5 to 7 days for 21 continual days because the spider mite has a 5 to 7 day reproductive cycle and it’s important to break that chain.

Burger Farm and Garden recommend the following products to control spider mites…

  • Organic approaches – Insecticidal Soap, Fertilome Fruit Tree Spray, Horticultural Oil Spray, Triple Action Plus Insect Spray.
  • Pesticide approaches – Malathion 55%, Bug Blaster Bifenthrin 2.4, Bayer 3-1 Insect, Disease, Mite control

Contact Us (513-561-8634) Today for More Information!

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Have you ever seen those tiny red bugs around your house? They are called Clover Mites and I want to share How To Get Rid of Clover Mites.

I had a horrifying experience while eating dinner last night. I discovered we had a clover mite infestation by our backyard sliding door.

We were casually eating dinner, when two of our kids said they found a ton of this little red bugs by the back door and they were “squishing” them with their fingers. Their fingers would stain and they eventually decided there were too many to keep playing the game and their fingers were getting quite stained in the process.

First off, we don’t condone these types of conversations at dinner time because everyone loses their appetite. But this wasn’t just some disgusting story, it was that I discovered it had happened while I was making dinner, moments before sitting down.

We immediately Googled what these little red bugs were – they are clover mites. They are harmless, they are popular in the spring and fall, they are an annoyance and they take over an area with a very large infestation.

Now mind you, they are tiny, they don’t bite, they can’t hurt a thing. They only eat grass and weeds. So that is all fine and dandy, but when they make their way into my home, then it is not fine and dandy. They are also nearly microscopic. They look like pin heads…actually even smaller than most pinheads. I mean…teeny, tiny. But when a whole group of them have come in or one laid an egg and they hatched, whatever, it looks like a bunch of dark tiny spots all over the window.

They are not aphids, but they remind me of red, even smaller, aphids. Aphids infest your garden plants and we shared how to naturally get rid of aphids a few years ago.

What Google said on “How To Get Rid of Clover Mites”

The next step after Google, was to get rid of them and get rid of these hundreds of little bugs FAST. We read that you can vacuum them up. That is also not entirely what I wanted. I didn’t want to vacuum them up, only to have them find a way back out, or even lay eggs inside of the vacuum.

Not Good Enough For Me

So we came up with a different solution that worked well to clean them up and hopefully continue to keep them away.

Part of my solution was adapted from the spider deterrent spray that we have made for years.

How To Get Rid of Clover Mites Step-by-Step

#1 – Grab the hairspray…QUICK!

We sprayed them with hairspray. I didn’t want them to be able to crawl out of the vacuum. It doesn’t matter what type of hairspray, just hairspray. They were far too small and fast to sweep up, and they stain if you try to squish and wipe them up. In addition, since they found a crevice in the back door to start an infestation, they had also settled on the drapes that cover the back door. So basically it was an attempt to “freeze” them to keep them from moving anywhere.

We sprayed them and they stopped moving. We sprayed the glass door, the curtain and the door runner thing. I know that hairspray can be sticky, but it is easily cleaned and wiped from the window, floor and other surfaces. The drapes can be washed too!

#2 – Now Grab the vacuum and vacuum hose

We then vacuum them up! We connected the hose to the vacuum and sucked up every frozen bug we could possibly find. We got them off the door, the floor, the curtains and the door runner.

We were able to get every tiny spot to disappear. It was a vigilant effort!

#3 – Grab some cotton balls and some peppermint essential oil

The next step was keeping them away in the future. If you have the tiniest of crevice or crack anywhere, they can find a way in.

However, I learned many years ago that spiders and insects HATE the smell of peppermint essential oil. That’s why I created my own Homemade Natural Spider Repellent. So, we covered 4 jumbo cotton balls in peppermint essential oil and placed them at different sections of the base of the sliding door. Hopefully this will do the trick to keep them away. It might also help any other tiny creature stay away.

Check out the oils I now use HERE.

That’s it!

I checked today and have been watching, there are no signs of additional Red Clover Mites. I read that is is near impossible to keep them away, but I am hopeful at least that the oil will help. The cotton balls may have to be re-blotted with essential oil every few days, but I also have a great smelling house!

I know this may seem like a silly post, but at the same time, when you are desperately looking for a solution that is frugal, and that also won’t be using a lot of terrible chemicals, then I hope you find this post helpful. And since we just experienced the infestation, there is a decent chance that you will have to deal with it soon too.

Have you ever seen these Clover Mite bugs before?

Give this method a try to have a mess-free, more natural (yes, hairspray isn’t the best, but better than other chemical alternatives) and get rid of them…hopefully for good!

What are clover mites?

Clover mites are true mites and are very closely related to ticks and spiders. They are very small and are often known as “tiny red bugs.” They are a household pest that invades in very large numbers, especially in the fall and spring months. Clover mites feed on clover, grass, weeds and other plants.

What do they look like?

Clover mites are red in color and are no larger than the size of a pinhead. Clover mites have distinctive long front legs in comparison to the small size of their body.

Do clover mites bite?

No, clover mites cannot bite.

Are clover mites dangerous?

No, clover mites are not dangerous. They are not a threat to humans or pets, and do not cause major structural damage to homes. They may, however, leave behind a red stain on walls, carpets, curtains, or other areas of your home if crushed.

What are the signs of a clover mite infestation?

If you have a clover mite infestation you will see an influx of tiny red bugs on the outside walls of your home, especially on the sides that get the most sun. You may also see clover mites crawling on the windows, window sills, and walls of your home.

Why do I have a clover mite problem?

Clover mites are sensitive to cooler temperatures and are drawn to the outside of your home or building where the sun hits looking for warmth. As they are crawling up the side of your house they will make their way inside through small cracks and crevices.

Clover mites can be very difficult to control and eliminate from your home because of their large numbers. The best way to handle a clover mite infestation within your home is to contact a professional pest control company. A year round, residential, pest control service will control clover mites as well as many other pests in and around your home. to learn more about Big Blue’s quality home pest control program!

Clover mite prevention tips from Big Blue Bug Solutions

  • Caulk any cracks found around exterior windows and doors.

  • Replace or repair any screens that are ripped or torn.

  • Seal cracks and crevices around found in your home’s foundation or siding.

  • Create a gravel or stone barrier between grass and your home’s foundation.

  • Trim back trees, bushes and other landscaping away from your home.

What Are These Tiny Red Bugs All Over My Yard?

July 18, 2017

We have gotten more than a few phone calls from alarmed homeowners about tiny red bugs that seem to have come from nowhere and have set up camp in yards and buildings in the area. These are clover mites, and they are not an uncommon pest to find in our area. They are so small, only about the size of a pinhead, that you might not even notice them in the yard if it were not for their deep red color or their tendency to cover the sunny side of a home.

Clover mites are true mites, closely related to ticks. They mostly spend their time feeding on clover (hence, the name), weeds, garden plants, and grassy areas which is why they are so attracted to our lush, green lawns that we work so hard for each year. They are especially active during the spring and fall months.

The problem is that the clover mite has a tendency to invade homes if they find the tiniest of entry points, mostly around windows, screens, and doors. These pests do nothing alone. They travel with a few thousand of their family members and friends. Just the sheer number of them alone can be an intimidating sight if you do not know what you are looking at. When they show up on a property in such large numbers is when they become a nuisance pest for the people that live there.

Clover mites pose no danger at all to people or to their homes, except that these mites will leave red stains on furniture, curtains, window sills, and walls if they get squished. When they invade in huge numbers, it can also be a real issue to try to get rid of them. It is never recommended that you take it upon yourself to remove a clover mite infestation from your home. Generally, the products sold over the counter are either ineffective or not strong enough to be able to treat the sheer number of clover mites that come in.

When clover mites become a problem, give the experts at Aiken Pest Control a call. Our technicians are some of the best in the business and will work with you to eradicate clover mites without leaving a red mess behind. Aiken Pest Control can also work with you to make sure that clover mites, along with a multitude of other pests, stay away from your home and property with one of our year-round pest control options.

The Tiny Red Bugs in Your Windows are Probably Clover Mites

If you’ve ever noticed tiny red bugs crawling in or around your window chances are they are Clover Mites. Clover Mites are a close relative to ticks and spiders but they are true mites, not insects. To the naked eye they are no more than tiny red bugs and appear no larger than a pinhead.

Clover mite adults have an oval shape body, eight legs, and are red to reddish-brown in color. The front pair of legs are very long compared to the other six legs and may be confused for the mite’s antennae. They mostly feed on clover, grassy lawns, plants and weeds and seem to appear by the thousands in the spring and fall.

These tiny red bugs will crawl up the side of the structure from the ground to invade your home. They get in through cracks and tiny openings around windows and doors. Inside, you may find them crawling around window sills, walls, curtains, drapes, furniture or directly on windows.

The tiny red bugs will leave behind a tell-tale stain when smashed. When clover mites are smashed they leave a red stain. The stain is not blood, but is the mite’s body pigment.

On the exterior, you may find thousands of tiny red bugs in large numbers on siding, brick walls, under loose bark of trees, foundation walls, around window frames and other outside surfaces. Clover mites can be found throughout the house, but they are frequently found on the sunniest side of the house or foundation, commonly the south side due to the warmth.

Do Clover Mites Bite Or Are They Harmful?

Clover mites are not dangerous. They do not bite and are not harmful to humans or pets. Also these tiny red bugs do not cause structural damages like termites.

They are simply nuisance pests and they can be hard to eradicate. They are difficult due to their size; they invade homes in great numbers and are so tiny they can get through even the smallest opening.

If you have the tiny red bugs invading your windows and home, give us a call for a free inspection and we’ll discuss efficient Control and Preventative measures.

CALL: (208) 475-4440

Serving: Boise, Eagle, Meridian, Nampa, Caldwell, Kuna, Middleton, Star, Melba, Emmett, Garden City and Mountain Home

Phytoseiulus persimilis – Spider Mite Curative System

Phytoseiulus persimilis is a predatory mite used to kill two spotted mite (Tetranychus urticae) often known as red spider mite. It is used to tackle severe infestations and treat spider mite hotspots.

Phytoseiulus predatory mites are the most commonly used form of biological pest control against red spider mite / two spotted mite in greenhouses and protected growing environments. These predatory mites feed on all stages of the spider mite life cycle from egg to adult. Their life cycle is faster than the mites they are feeding on and in suitable conditions they can double their population every two days, consuming around 5 adults and 20 young larvae per day. This leads to a quick reduction in the spider mite population and plant damage.

When spider mite is present in large numbers, we advise using Phytoseiulus with the predator Amblyseius californicus for best results.

Severe spider mite infestations may need more than one curative application of predators. Allow 7-10 days and reapply if spider mite is still visibly present.

Please ensure you have read the appropriate conditions for using Phytoseiulus before purchase, these can be found below.

When should I use Phytoseiulus?

Use Phytoseiulus as a curative measure when spider mite is present on the plant, leaf damage and webbing is a clear indication of this. DO NOT apply if you have used any chemical treatments in the past 2 weeks.

What conditions do Phytoseiulus need to be effective?

Temperature ranges between 15-28 degrees are ideal for Phytoseiulus to be most effective. The predators like slightly higher levels of humidity than the pest spider mites, a relative humidity of around 75% is ideal. If conditions are too dry, predators will begin to move to the bottom of the plant seeking moisture.

How many do I need?

Based on an average plant 1m in height. We recommend the following application rate;

100 Phytoseiulus per plant

For severe infestations, where leaves show signs of webbing and yellow splotches. We advise doubling this rate and applying a second application 7-10 days after the first.

Use Phytoseiulus together with loose Amblyseius californicus for best results.

Shipping times

Phytoseilius is a living creature and is produced fresh to order. We receive multiple deliveries each week and always aim to get your order out as quickly as possible, as a guide please allow 1-2 working days for your order to be dispatched. If you require these for next day delivery please call us to check on stock levels.

How do I apply?

Spider mite often feed at the top of plants, so ensure predators are released in this area or in hot spots of activity. Supplied in shaker bottles you can apply the predators by rotating the bottle and gently shaking the contents directly onto the infested leaves of the plants. Phytoseilius can also be applied using distribution boxes which act as small breeding sites for the predators and can be hung onto stems or leaves. Full instructions are provided on delivery.

Can I store Phytoseiulus?

We advise using Phytoseiulus straight away upon delivery, this ensures best results as the mites will be fresh.

Chemical Pesticides

Phytoseilius is a living creature and can be affected by any chemical pesticides used within the previous few weeks. As a guide cease using pyrethrum or SB plant invigorator 2 days prior to use and other persistent chemicals or universal bug killers 1-2 weeks before using Phytoseilius.

Predatory Mite Pest Control – Using Predatory Mites In The Garden

Mites are infinitesimally tiny insects that suck plant juices and sap the vitality of your garden specimens. Predatory mites in the garden are the security system you need to stop plant-eating mites. What are predatory mites? These minute bugs eat the eggs, larva and adults of the plant-eating variety of mite. Discover how to use predatory mites and where to get predatory mites so you can harness the natural mite control of these voracious insects.

What are Predatory Mites?

Look really close if you want to see these little guys, even though they are slightly larger than their prey. Mites are wingless insects with a solid one-piece body and no antennae. The predatory mites feed on spider mites and other pest mites as well as thrips and some other small insects.

In the absence of prey, predatory mites eat pollen and nectar and can revert to sucking plant juices. There are several varieties of predatory mites in the garden, each of which has a preferred food source. The mites have the same life cycle as the pest insects, starting with an egg stage, larval period and finally a nymph stage.

How to Use Predatory Mites

First you need to know what your pest problem is. This may require some investigation and a magnifying glass to identify the culprit. Then choose the appropriate warrior to battle against the bad insect.

Western mites are effective against spider mites and two-spotted mites. The Phytoseiids are a group of predatory mites that overwinter in trees and are the most common of the insects. The stigmaeid or yellow mites are useful as predatory mite pest control against European red mites. Several of the varieties are commercially available for wide spread pest control.

Where to Get Predatory Mites

There is a practice among agricultural professionals called “seeding.” This basically means locating a tree or orchard with a population of the predatory mites you desire and relocating them. You do this by cutting a stem or limb from a tree infested with the beneficial mites and placing it where you want the insects to move in and feed on the bad mites.

The best time to harvest the insects for predatory mite pest control is spring. This is when plants are blooming and mite activity is at its peak. Some varieties of mites are also available online or through catalogues.

Encouraging Predatory Mites in the Garden

Spraying horticultural oil in spring can help reduce the mite population in areas that have a pest problem. The oil doesn’t usually bother the predatory mites, especially the phytoseiid variety, which overwinters in secluded and protected areas.

Use the least toxic pesticides for other varieties of insects and apply pre-bloom whenever you can to prevent killing the beneficial mites.

Predatory Mites are anthropods used for biological control of pest spider mites. These living warriors do not bite people and cause no damage to plants. Whether you’re growing indoors, outdoors or in a greenhouse, predatory mites are a great organic solution to spider mite infestations.

What are Spider Mites?

Tetranychus urticae females with egg

One of the more formidable pathogens a Cannabis shepherd must contend with is known as the “Spider Mite”. Spider Mites are arachnids barely visible to the naked eye that feed by extracting fluid from plant tissues. Many species are able to reproduce quickly, hatching in as little as 3 days, and becoming sexually mature in as little as 5 days.

Spider mites can feed on hundreds of different species of plants (including cannabis). They most commonly reside on the undersides of leaves, and can spin their silk webs over plant leaves and flowers – hence the name “Spider Mite”. Spider mites are known as one of the most frustrating cannabis pests to get rid of.

Spider Mites are Damaging to Plants

Early signs of leaf damage

Plant leaves succumb to spider mite infestation quickly causing mass die off. Spider mites obtain their food by sucking chlorophyll from leaf undersides. Without hasty countermeasures or eradication, entire crops can be lost. Luckily there are many methods available for prevention and treatment if symptoms are diagnosed quickly.

While avoiding infestation is optimal, spider mites prey on a vast array of plants all horticulturalists will eventually come in contact with including many yard and garden plants like juniper, corn, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, beans, eggplants, carrots, strawberries, cucumbers and cannabis

Common Ways to Get Rid of Spider Mites

While acaricides like pyrethrum are effective, it is best to avoid the risk of plant tissue damage and residual toxicity in sinsemilla crops.

Organic sprays containing Neem oil, pepper spray and insecticidal soaps are safer options though proper application is stressed since mite populations congregate on the underside of cannabis leaves. AzaMax and Spinosad are popular OMRI listed solutions.

Modifying environmental factors can control mite populations but may improve the conditions for other pathogens i.e. increased humidity and botrytis. Controlled CO2 enrichment has been touted as “Generally dramatically decreased oxygen and increased carbon dioxide concentrations at elevated temperatures can lead to mortality(of spider mites) at all developmental stages.”

A contained “CO2 blast” can kill grown spider mites, though won’t kill their eggs – reapplication is necessary within a few days. This debated method is praised by some, while many cannabis growers have found CO2 level modification for spider mite eradication utterly useless. Use extreme caution when handling and releasing CO2 – a concentration above 5000 ppm is known as dangerous to humans.

Using Predatory Mites to Kill Spider Mites on Plants

Predatory mite species Phytoseiulus persimilis attacking a spider mite

One sustainable organic remedy that has only recently become commercially available to cultivators is deploying predatory mites to hunt and kill your mites for you. Soldier bugs like Praying Mantis, Ladybugs, and Green Lacewing have been available for many years. However, they have not proven to be effective as they are much larger and do not prey specifically on mites.

Mother nature has proven time and time again that symbiotic relationships are always the best solution.

Predatory mites are comparable in size to their prey but move at much higher speeds and feed on many spider mites in short periods of time. P.Persimilis will feed so quickly they starve since their diet consists of Spider Mites alone. A.Swirskii has a varied diet including mites, pollen, and even mold. Furthermore, it will also predate harmful insects such as Thrips and Whiteflies if they are introduced to the garden space.

A blend of species is often offered by suppliers providing strength in diversity. Multiple applications are still recommended to provide insurance that stowaway eggs don’t seed future infestation.

Predatory Mite Benefits

There are clear advantages to plants by using predatory mites to kill spider mites:

  • Predatory mites eat spider mites.
  • Predatory mites eat spider mite eggs. Compare this to many spray and CO2 methods that attack solely the hatched mite, doing nothing for the next generation. Predator mites devour the both the mite itself along with it’s nutritious unhatched eggs.
  • Predatory mites move quickly and thoroughly through plants, possessing a wolfish hunger.
  • Easy to use – no need to worry about spraying every single leaf’s underside, simply release your predator mite army and sit back.
  • 100% safe and organic – stay away from chemical application that can result in residual pesticides (a growing problem in the cannabis market).
  • Predatory mites are inexpensive and delivered fast!

Phytoseiulus persimilis species of predatory mite

How to Apply Predatory Mites on Cannabis:

Mites can be released at anytime outdoors but it is preferable to release when lights are off if in an indoor grow space. Lightly spray the entire surface of the canopy with water and sprinkle the contents of the bottle which will stick to the leaf surface. Depending on species, mites will be effective between 1-12 per square foot so orders typically come in 500-5000 per.

Don’t spray predatory mites with pesticides! Both spider mites and predatory mites breathe through pores on their legs. Pesticide and oil sprays will block these pores, literally suffocating the mites while doing nothing to their eggs.

In general, a light spider mite infestation should be inoculated with a blend of predatory mites species at a rate of 2-4 per square meter. 5-10 per square meter will be effective for a heavy infestation. If preferred, sprinkle the mites into an envelope and secure it between branches to keep the carrier medium off of the plants if flowering has already been initiated. Though it may not be needed a second application is recommended after two weeks to eradicate potential stowaway eggs seeding a future infestations.

Buy Predatory Mites For Sale Online

Predatory Mites can be procured online through Amazon.com or directly through supplier websites like naturesgoodguys.com and evergreengrowers.com. The order should arrive in under 24 hours and the mites must be released within 18 hours of receipt. They will be stored in camera film sized containers in a vermiculite or corn grit medium, or in slow release bags.

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Article written by the Feminetics.com team. More great information coming soon!

Disclaimer: We do not promote or undertake in illegal activities.

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