Poppy seeds for planting

Many flowers are known by the name of “poppy.” Some are annuals, some perennials. Some are in the genus Papaver, others in the genus Meconopsis, and still more Eschscholzia. Some are wildlfowers that grow and spread readily, some are fussy and expensive perennials.

The varieties that we sell at Seeds from Italy are all annuals that are easily grown from seed. The key to success with our poppies is to plant them from fall to late winter on disturbed soil and don’t cover them. Poppy seeds need cold and light to germinate. Many growers find that the perfect time to plant poppy seeds is when you have some snow on the ground. Just sprinkle the poppy seeds on top of the snow where you want them to grow, and they will be in perfect shape to germinate and grow when conditions are right. Their lacy blue-green foliage emerges in late spring and they bloom in early summer. Once established, they will reseed for years.

The common poppy is Papaver rhoeas, also known as corn poppy and Flanders poppy. It became an icon of remembrance of fallen soldiers after World War I. Lt. Col. John McCrae, a medical doctor, wrote “In Flanders Fields” from the battlefield surgery station in the Ypres in the spring of 1915 after the death of Lt. Alexis Helmer, a former student who was just 22 years old. The poem begins:

In Flanders Fields the poppies blow

Between the crosses row on row,

That mark our place; and in the sky

The larks, still bravely singing, fly

Scarce heard amid the guns below.

McCrae’s poem was published in London on Dec. 8, 1915, and eventually gained worldwide attention. In 1918, an American woman, Moina Michael, published a poem of her own called “We Shall Keep the Faith,” and vowed to wear a red poppy as a symbol of remembrance for lives lost. Within a year, the poppy was adopted as a symbol by veterans groups in the U.S., Canada, France, England, and elsewhere. The American Legion still sells the poppies as a charitable fundraiser, mostly around Memorial Day, but also on Veterans Day. Wreaths made of red silk poppies are traditionally laid on veterans’ graves on days of remembrance.

Red poppies are still found growing wild in fallow farm fields and meadows, often in a colorful mixture of wildflowers that include cornflowers and daisies.

Field poppies are in the genus Papaver, along with the Glaucum poppy and the Shirley poppy. California poppies, native to North America, are in the genus Eschscholzia, but are grown the same way.

How to grow poppies indoors

By Denise

This is the time of year when I think of starting poppy seeds. Many people will prepare the ground outdoors in the late fall, sprinkle seeds and wait for spring and watch for growth in their poppy patch. I tend to forget to get my poppies started in the fall and have to wait and hope for a break in weather to plant poppies.

Note: If You allow poppies to go to seed and don’t disturb the soil in that area your poppies should reseed themselves.

The Poppy is a form of wildflower in the Papaveraceae family with many well-known varieties. The California poppy has the bright orange while my area is best known for the red flowered poppy. Other colors include white, pink, yellow, red, or blue bowl-shaped flowers of 4 to 6 petals.

There is also a form of poppy, the opium poppy, that is illegal to grow in most areas.

Most poppy flowers grow one per stem, and they come from very tiny black seeds. Poppies exist in annual, biennial and perennial varieties, and they are usually considered relatively easy to grow.

As an experiment I am also going to grow a few poppies indoors this year. I also planted my poppy bed outdoors this week (March 11th). You can never have too many poppies or any flower for that matter.

Growing Poppies Indoors

There is some debate on whether poppies can be reliably grown indoors and even why you would want to. The perennial poppy tends to need a full cycle of dormancy that the seasons and regular days and nights provide. Indoors the cycle is much harder to recreate.

So if you are starting poppies indoors use small peat pots with a few seeds in each. This will give you a better chance of viability. It will also help to locate the pots in different areas of the home or greenhouse. Germination for poppy seeds usually takes 20 days.

Poppies are a hearty, drought-resistant plant that prefers full sun but cool temperatures. This can be a challenge to recreate indoors. Regulating light and temperature for germination can be difficult indoors, so you might want to sprout the poppy seeds outdoors and bring them inside after have fresh growth and look more like a miniature plant. That would be 3 to 4 inches tall. I am going to try starting the poppies both ways and see which works the best.

Once the poppy plants have growth place them on a windowsill that receives a southern exposure. A southern exposure will help them get the natural sun they need to grow to their potential.

I plan to place the poppies in the sun room and use unique pots and possible driftwood behind the plants. I think it will emphasis the delicate look of the blossoms.

Caring for Poppies Indoors

Once established poppies will grow quickly given the right conditions. They should receive full to sun to partial shade, but not be exposed to sweltering heat.

Their soil should be slightly acidic and well drained. If growing indoors set the potted plants on a drainage tray with pebbles. And general-purpose fertilizer should be applied once each month to accelerate growth and keep the plant healthy.

Note: I use a compost tea for most of my plants; I find it to work the best.

Depending on the variety, poppies will bloom 65 to 90 days from planting.

A with most flowering plants pinching off mature flowers helps promote new blooms.

If you plan to harvest seeds, allow the flowers to die and dry. Cut off the seedpods and let them to dry completely. The seeds will separate easier from the seedpod once thoroughly dry.

Note: if seeds are not totally dry they will mold and the germination capabilities of the seed will be ruined.

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    • Learn how to grow poppies in this article. Even if you don’t have a space for large flower beds, by growing poppies in pots you can still enjoy the colorful blooms of this stately flowering plant.

      Beautiful and seemingly delicate, the poppies are the plants not particularly very easy to grow, but the beauty of the flowering plant makes it a popular classic. Those who want to enjoy the intense blooms in their container gardens must grow poppies in pots.

      Best Poppy Varieties

      There are some of the varieties of poppies that are popular and can grow well in a pot:

      Oriental poppy

      Most of the oriental poppy cultivars have large strikingly beautiful flowers that usually appears in late spring to early summer in bright colors like orange and red. There are also softer colors of this perennial flowering plant: pink, white and purple, with or without a central spot.

      Height: 0.40 to 1.20 m.

      USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-9

      Iceland poppy

      Usually grown as an annual or biennial this short living perennial is self-seeding and comes year after year, does not like the hot summers. Lightly perfumed flowers appear from mid spring to mid summer in colors like yellow, orange, red, pink and white. Flowers of this cultivar fade slowly than other poppies.

      Height: 0.30 to 0.6 m.

      USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-9

      California poppy

      The showy state flower of California is a short-lived perennial in warm temperate and subtropical climates (USDA Zone 8-10). If you want to grow poppy in a tropical climate, try California poppy, keeping the plant in partial shade in summer.

      Height: 0.15 to 0.45 m.

      USDA Zones: 6-10b

      Shirley poppy

      One of the most beautiful and delicate poppies. Shirley Poppy is the name given to an ornamental cultivar group derived from the European wild field poppy (Papaver rhoeas).

      Height: up to 0.6 m

      USDA Zones: 3-9, can be grown in zones 10 & 11 as annual but doesn’t tolerate tropical heat well.

      Choosing a Pot

      Growing poppies in pots is easy; the plant is best grown in a medium sized pot. As poppies don’t tolerate waterlogged soil, ensure the pot has sufficient drainage holes in the bottom so that the water will drain freely.

      How to Grow Poppies

      Sowing Seeds and Planting

      1. Poppy grows well from seeds. Make sure that you place the pot in a bright position after planting seeds as poppy seeds require light to germinate. Also, most of the poppies do not like being transplanted, so either choose a pot that is biodegradable or plant seeds in the exact pot in which you wish to grow poppy plants later.

      2. Disperse seeds by hand in the pot. As the poppy seeds are very small, gardeners often mix them with sand to achieve a more equitable distribution. This also helps to see where the seeds were sown.

      3. Tamp the seeds lightly down on the soil so that they are covered by a very thin layer of soil or sand. This keeps the seeds in place, and they’ll also get plenty of light for germination. Once the seeds are planted, moisten the soil making sure you don’t move the seeds.

      4. Keep the soil constantly moist until germination. Germination depends on the climate and species but usually occurs within 25 days.

      5. Poppies have a very delicate root system in the beginning so once the seedlings sprout water them gently. Thin out the seedlings 4-6 inches apart, when they reach a height of 5 inches. If you are planting in a medium to the large sized pot, you can easily keep more than one plant per pot.

      Requirements for Growing Poppies in Pots

      Location

      Poppies love the sun, so place your pots in a spot that receives ample sunlight, at least 6-7 hours daily. However, if you live in a warm climate where the sun is intense, grow poppies in partial sun.

      Soil

      Poppies can thrive on a variety of soils unless it is clay rich and blocks the drainage, the best is to use humus rich, loamy potting mix. The substrate should be neither too loose, nor prone to compaction and must be well draining. Slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is recommended.

      Watering

      When the poppies are in bloom or about to bloom in warm season, watering must be moderate and regular. On the contrary, once you get past the period of flowering, best to leave the soil dry as much as possible and watering must be done only when the top one inch surface of soil seems dry.

      Poppy Plant Care

      Fertilizer

      Poppies are not heavy feeders; on the ground, they tolerate poor soil and thrive on their own, but when growing poppies in pots you’ll need to fertilize the plant. At the time of planting or at the beginning of growing season, usually, spring (fall in warm frost-free climates), add a slow-release fertilizer to provide a steady supply of nutrition to plant during the whole season.

      If you haven’t added a slow release fertilizer, start to feed the plant with balanced liquid fertilizer on a bi-weekly basis once the plant has exceeded the height of 5 inches or when new growth emerges in spring. You can also feed the plant with flower fertilizer during the flowering period. Cease the application of fertilizer once the growing period ends.

      Also, poppies are prone to magnesium and iron deficiency, application of Epsom salt is recommended.

      Deadheading

      Cut off the faded flowers to encourage more blooms.

      Pests and Diseases

      If the pot is not well draining or if you overwater the plant, it may die due to root rot. It also suffers from powdery mildew. In pests, keep an eye on aphids and spider mites.

      I predict a rash of poppies over the next couple of years. You just watch as you flick along the motorway with the ‘countryside’ slumped on either side. It happened about four years ago after the BSE flare-up and it will happen again after this foot-and-mouth episode. This is because many of those farmers left in business will take their compensation money and put it into arable rather than in stock. More arable means more grassland ploughed up, some of it untilled for 100 years or more, and under the turf will be millions of poppy seeds lying in wait, itched into germination by the disturbance of the ground.

      The field poppy (Papaver rhoeas) has always been a symbol of death and rebirth, and no other flower combines exquisite delicacy of tissue with such a vibrant blaze of colour. Everywhere the ground is disturbed – be it by First World War shells or the plough – poppies will grow. Each flower will produce around 17,000 seeds, of which around 3,000 will remain viable and dormant in untilled ground for at least a century before bursting into flower when the ground is disturbed and the seeds are exposed to light.

      Living here on the Welsh border, it is appropriate that we have little batches of the Welsh poppy, Meconopsis cambrica, growing up from cracks in stone and tucked in the sides of steps. This is a self-effacing plant, behaving like a weed, yet it has nothing to be modest about. If this is a weed, then give me more. There is a cultivated form, apparently, called ‘Muriel Brown’, but I hardly see the point. There are red poppies enough and the point of the Welsh poppy is its yellowness.

      Likewise, intense blueness is the point of the Himalayan poppy, M grandis. Blue is thin on the ground at any time of year and especially so in spring and there is no other flower that has such a shocking, if somewhat chilly, blue. Its cousin, M betonicifolia, runs it a close second, but that is essentially a variation on a theme. Both are choosy about their environment and do not adapt well. They like an acidic, extremely rich soil, lots of water and the coldest spot that you have to offer. But if you get it right they are a spectacular plant.

      The other poppies coming out at time of writing are the Icelandic poppies, P nudicaule. Iceland poppies are biennials, so they should be sown soon in pots or a seed bed and then transplanted in autumn for flowers for next spring. The advantage of biennials is that you can research them and react to those researches in the same reflex. So often one makes a note with all the best intentions in the world, but the gap between response and action is too long to sustain. Maybe that’s just me. So check out the Icelandics. They come in a range of colours through white, pink, yellow, orange and red, and all are very good as cut flowers – a rare attribute in a poppy. You can either make a virtue of their tendency towards prettiness with a mix like ‘Meadow pastels’, or go for individual colours such as the strong vermilion ‘Red Sail’.

      The oriental poppy, P orientale, is almost opening. It is a fabulous thing, as opulent as a Shanghai bordello, and, like said establishment, essential to any garden. But you have to relish each moment of them because they flower for a couple of weeks and then collapse into an exhausted heap, seemingly unable to sustain any more display for the rest of the summer. The secret is to cut them back hard when they have completely finished flowering and they will eventually regrow, with another display in late summer.

      Until 1903, these flowers were invariably vermilion. But nurseryman Amos Perry noticed a pink form among his seedlings. He named it ‘Mrs Perry’ and tried to breed a white form from it, but was unsuccessful. Nine years later, he had a letter from a customer, complaining that the so-called pink ‘Mrs Perry’ was white, so could he have his money back? Amos Perry nipped down there sharpish and swapped the white poppy for a replacement. And so the ‘Perry’s White’ was born. Since then, there are a number of varieties, the most famous probably being ‘Patty’s Plum’.

      If you are really into poppies, start with ‘Beauty of Livermere’, which is a deep red, go through an orange such as ‘Harvest Moon’, then add pinks (‘Raspberry Queen’ or ‘Sultana’), have a bit of smoky burgundy with ‘Patty’s Plum’ and wind up towards the end of June, having spread your flowering season at least double its normal length with another red, ‘Derwisch’.

      The field poppy is characterised by red petals with black blotches at their base. Breeders have harnessed its promiscuity to select strains with the red shifting through every shade, although the reddest petal with the blackest base is ‘Ladybird’ which, when the evening sun shines through its translucent petals, has the most jewel-like incandescence of any flower.

      In 1880, the Reverend Wilks, vicar of Shirley in Surrey, noticed a single poppy in the vicarage glebelands with aberrantly white bases. He collected the seed from it and eventually bred the strain that we know as Shirley poppies, with white, rather than black, bases to the petals. They tend to be more delicate and subtle than the field poppy, with tissue-paper petals on thin, hairy stems and a low stature. They tend to revert to field red unless you carefully collect the seed of the subtlest shades.

      The opium poppy, P somniferum, is as blowsy as the Shirley poppy is delicate. Big, almost bustling, it is at its best in double peony-flowered ruffles, a ragged ball of shredded silk. When the petals are single they billow and open miraculously large from quite tight, small buds. You can get them in a huge range of colours, from deepest purple (sold as black) as glossy as the skin of an aubergine, to pure white, bypassing every hint of blue on the way. The only problem is that if you let them seed indiscriminately, they tend to end up a dirty pink colour.

      The last poppy has a name like a spelling mistake: Eschscholzia. It is a brilliant plant, radiantly bright orange or egg-yolk yellow on a filigree of glaucous leaves, growing in the poorest of soils and lasting from July to autumn. The blood-red variety, ‘Dali’, looks suitably intense, as do the vermilion ‘Inferno’ and the more orange ‘Orange King’. But do not be spoilt for choice: the basic as-it-comes orange will more than tide you over while you consider the options. Like the field, Shirley and opium poppies, the Californian poppy grows amazingly fast and easily, so is invaluable for filling an empty patch of cultivated ground. Sow now.

      My roots: A week in Monty’s garden

      Real sun. From dawn to last night’s ridiculous dusk, we have had baking, brilliant sunshine. Everything, of course, is easy. You forget how much effort goes into keeping warm and dry, and dealing with mud. It is surprising how slowly plants respond to the weather. Just because I immediately slough off the winter creakiness (although I hurt my back taking down the chicken fence) I expect everything to grow visibly before my eyes.

      It is all about night-time temperature, of course, and the clear skies have meant cold nights, so everything is holding its fire a while longer. But the pleached limes are sprouting leaves from their knobbles and the apple blossom, having held back at least a fortnight past its normal start, is getting good. I planted out lettuce, spinach and ‘primo’ cabbage grown in soil blocks, and took a risk with French beans, also in blocks.

      In my experience, you gain nothing by trying to hurry beans along, as they do not grow at all if the night time temperature drops below five degrees. So, as a general rule, I plant them out in June, having hardened them off in a cold frame. I experimented with planting them out under closed cloches (effectively little tunnels), hoping that the high daytime temperature would be stored overnight. We shall see. In the meantime, I have sown another batch in blocks.

      I transplanted a quince, ‘Lescoviz’, from the pot where it has been sitting for the past 18 months to the new wet garden in the hope that it will appreciate the winter flooding it will get. Because of our septic tank upheaval we have had to move all the stuff we’d been keeping in pots, and have tried to plant or ditch everything older than a year rather than move it all back again. We ought to do this every spring.

      I also moved a couple of regal ferns from the Jewel garden to this new site and found it had multiplied itself tenfold in just a year. At least something has appreciated the wet of the past year. Not much has. A lot of things in the Jewel garden have been lost. This is, of course, merely an opportunity to get new plants and to sort things out, but even in the sunshine that is a bit gung-ho.

      And why the ridiculous dusk? Because at nine o’clock the moon suddenly poked its head above the horizon, as orange as a Californian poppy, turning the night into fancy dress. I have lived more than half my life and seem to know less and less as it goes on, but I have learnt this much: nothing gets any better than this.

      Your roots Sowing the seeds for poppy stardom

      For this article I have referred extensively – as I often do – to Sarah Raven’s The Bold & Brilliant Garden (£25, Frances Lincoln). It is proving to be an invaluable part of my garden library.

      • Poppies are hopelessly promiscuous and have a habit of coming up next year in exactly the colour you do not want. The only way round this is to keep seed from the flowers you want and, once you have enough plants established, be ruthless about pulling up the ‘wrong’ colours.

      • The best colours are pulled up as soon as the petals begin to drop, root and all, and hung upside down with their seedheads in a plastic bag. If the roots are attached they will ripen like this and the seeds will fall into the bag. Put these into a brown paper envelope and label them.

      • You can sow poppies in autumn or spring, the autumn-sown ones flowering some weeks earlier. Always sow annual poppies in situ, as they hate being moved except when tiny. Either scatter them and let them grow where they land, or sow them thinly in zigzags. If you choose the latter method, you will have to thin them as they appear, so it is a more wasteful use of seed.

      How To Germinate Poppy Seeds

      Generally speaking, poppy plants do not grow well when divided and transplanted and so are almost always grown from seed. Poppy flowers make a beautiful, colorful addition to any flower garden or outdoor landscape and are relatively easy to maintain. Read on to learn how to germinate your poppy plants so that you can grow new flowers from seed.

      Step 1 – Choose the Correct Time for Germination

      Poppy seeds are relatively sensitive to temperature. Poppy seeds will germinate in temperatures of about 60 to 68 degrees F during the daytime. Nighttime temperatures should average between 38 and 45 degrees. If temperatures are much colder or warmer than this, it will result in poor germination and loss of seeds.

      Step 2 – Prepare the Germination Bed

      For your poppy seeds to properly germinate, they will need fertile, well-drained soil. Mix peat moss or sand in with your soil to give it better drainage.

      Step 3 – Sow the Poppy Seeds

      When sowing your poppy seeds, spread them sparsely and don’t spread too many in one area. This will help you avoid too much thinning later on. Poppy seeds need adequate room to germinate and grow.

      Do not cover the seeds with too much soil. These plants need a lot of light to germinate, so covering them with soil will prevent them from getting the light that they need. You can lightly press the seeds into the potting soil with your finger to keep them from becoming dislodged.

      Step 4 – Water the Seeds

      You will need to water your poppy seeds once a day until they germinate. Use a spray bottle to lightly mist the soil, keeping it moist but not wet. Depending on conditions, your poppy seeds will germinate within about four to 20 days.

      Step 5 – Provide Good Air Circulation

      Your seedlings will need adequate air circulation as soon as the first leaves appear. Without good air circulation, your poppies will be susceptible to many types of fungal diseases that can kill young plants. Good air circulation will prevent most types of fungi from being able to settle on the leaves. If you need to, place an oscillating fan somewhere in the room with the seeds.

      Step 6 – Thin Out Your Poppy Plants

      Once your young poppy plants reach about 4 to 6 inches in height, clip the tops off of the stems of the weakest or unhealthiest plants. This will allow your poppy plants to regenerate new growth, and will also help to produce more blooms and flowers when the plants mature.

      Saving Poppy Seeds : How And When To Harvest Poppy Seeds

      Poppy seeds add crunch and flavor to many types of baked goods. These tiny flavorful seeds come from the beautiful poppy flower, Papever somniferum. There are plenty of other gorgeous poppy species that thrive in a variety of conditions. Saving poppy seeds will help perpetuate the colorful plants for years to come. It is a rather fun project, too, as you wait until the large pod starts to rattle. This indicates it is almost time for a poppy seed harvest, either for culinary use or just to continue the plants into the next year.

      When to Harvest Poppy Seeds

      Who among us hasn’t had a wonderful lemon or almond poppy seed muffin? The delicate seeds impart a rich flavor and gentle crunch that adds unique dimension to baked goods. Poppies have a bad reputation as part of the opium trade, but for gardeners, they are simply lovely papery blooms in brilliant colors. These easy-to-grow plants are also simple to propagate from seed.

      Poppies generally flower in late spring to early summer. They thrive in full sun in rich, well-drained soil. Once the delicate petals begin to drop, the ovary develops into the plant’s fruit, a chubby seed pod. This pod contains hundreds of tiny black seeds, which are edible in some species.

      Pods are green when young and yielding. When weather is dry near the end of the growing season, pods begin to turn brown and develop a hard carapace. This will eventually crack open, releasing the small seed. You must wait until pods are fully dry for a poppy seed harvest. Harvesting poppy seeds too early may affect their viability and ability to germinate.

      You can tell when pods are ripe by shaking the stem. If the pod rattles, it is a good indicator it is time to harvest. Usually this is 80 to 90 days after planting.

      How to Collect Poppy Seeds

      Identifying when to harvest the seeds is only part of the equation. You also need to know how to collect poppy seeds to prevent the diminutive seeds from spreading themselves. You can watch the plants like a hawk and collect them just before they split or when the pods are rattling and dry the pod until it cracks on a rack with a tray under it or in nylon hose hung up in a dry, warm location.

      Alternatively, you can allow the pods to dry on the plant and bag them individually with cheese cloth or old nylon stockings. Harvesting poppy seeds in this manner ensures that the seed has reached maturity. If you are saving poppy seeds from harvested dried pods, there may be some variability in germination, as some seed may not have had time to mature.

      Preserving Your Poppy Seed Harvest

      To save seed for the next season, dry them for a couple of weeks in an open container. Then pour the seed into a glass container with a tight fitting lid. Culinary seeds will retain flavor for up to a year if the container is stored in a cool, dry, dark location. Seed for growing should be planted the following year for best results.

      Sow seeds in late fall or very early spring. Cover seeds with a very find sift of soil, since poppy seeds require light to germinate. Germination will occur in 2 to 4 weeks. Seedlings are cold hardy and should be thinned to 4 to 6 inches apart (1.6 to 2.4 cm.).

      Seeds can also be sown indoors 4 to 5 weeks before the date of the last frost and transplanted, but be warned, poppies do not transplant well and some failure of the crop should be expected.

      Once seedlings are established, they need occasional watering but are a fairly self-sufficient flower. Enjoy their nodding brightly colored blooms and charming seed pods until it is time for the next harvest.

      Back in March, I was overtaken by the rare spring-cleaning urge and went to work on my potting bench. Believe me, it hardly ever looks this pretty. In the process, I unearthed a bunch of old seeds that were way past their prime.

      Side note: I hate throwing things away. I’m one of those savers who is totally, unrealistically optimistic about the future need/use/transformation of something I don’t really want anymore in the first place.

      For the hell of it, I threw all the old seeds in a bed out back. Well, of course, the entire bed is now packed with plantings of the most random ridiculous colors and offerings.

      Photo by Evan Janke

      There are purple tomatillos mixed with blaring burgundy amaranth, yellow rudbeckia, and lavender colored poppies mixed with summer savory. It’s totally out of control.

      I guess seeds last a lot longer that I originally thought (and score one point for this optimistic saver). Another bonus from this wild garden is we have been able to collect like a million poppy seeds.

      The new plan once this space is cleared and the soil amended, is to plant the entire area in poppies. Wish me luck. If my poppy plan works, that adds another point to the tally. (But who’s keeping track?)

      I never captured a photo of the poppies blooming (I blame the heat!) but this illustration reflects what they looked like.

      Harvesting Seeds:

      After the poppy blooms, a beautiful green pod will remain on the plant. You can use that pod in flower arrangements (like seen here) or you can use it to harvest opium—your choice.

      If you choose to collect the seeds leave the pod in the ground until it turns brown and woody. Then, clip the pod off the plant and turn upside down, head first into a bowl (at this point some seeds may fall out). Grab some scissors and snip the star portion of the pod off and shake the pod into the bowl, rotating in a circular fashion, as some seeds will hide within the pod.

      Voila! Seeds. Lots of them. Store in a clean, dry container in a cool, dark area until it’s time for spring planting. Don’t forget to label them!

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