Planting flowers in mulch

Mulch Gardening Info: Can You Grow Plants In Mulch

Mulch is a gardener’s best friend. It conserves soil moisture, protects roots in winter and suppresses growth of weeds – and it looks nicer than bare soil. As it decomposes, mulch improves the texture of the soil and adds valuable nutrients. All that being said, can you grow plants in mulch alone? Read on to learn more.

Using Mulch in Place of Soil

Most gardeners prefer to plant in soil and spread a few inches of mulch on top of the soil – around the plant but not covering it. As a general rule, most experienced gardeners aren’t crazy about the idea of planting in mulch, or about using mulch in place of soil. If you want to experiment with mulch gardening, it may be worth a try, but start small in case the experiment doesn’t work.

You may be able to plant annuals, such as petunias, begonias or marigolds, directly in mulch. Annuals only live a single growing season, so you don’t have to worry about maintaining the plant for its long lifespan. However, the plants will require water frequently, as moisture drains through mulch very quickly. Without the stability provided by the soil, the plants may not survive a long blooming season. Additionally, plants are unable to draw important nutrients from the soil.

Perennials will probably have a more difficult time surviving in mulch only gardens. If you decide to give it a try, remember that water is key because there’s no soil to hold moisture. Check the plants often, especially during hot, dry weather.

You’re likely to have a difficult time planting seeds in mulch, but again, it’s worth a try, and you may discover that the technique actually works! Chances of success are better if the mulch is broken down like fine compost. Coarse mulch doesn’t provide much support for seedlings – if they germinate at all.

If you decide to try planting in mulch, you’ll need at least 8 inches. This can make mulch gardening expensive if you don’t have a ready source.

The Ten Biggest Mistakes Gardeners Make

  • 1. They cut their grass too short.

    Lawns composed of cool-season grasses need to be three inches tall after being cut to be able to grow the deep healthy roots that can crowd out weeds. Warm-season grasses do best at around two inches after cutting. We know that you THINK a short cut will mean more time between mowing, but it actually means the opposite. Scalped lawns grow at the maximum speed to try and compensate for your vicious attack. Grass allowed to achieve a decent height will always look much greener, have fewer weeds, and grow at the slowest possible rate. For lots more lawn care info, see this PREVIOUS QUESTION OF THE WEEK.

  • 2. They water incorrectly.
    Plants MUST be allowed to dry out between watering. Plants that are watered every day will die from root rot. In a normal season in the upper half of the country, a long, deep soaking once every week you don’t get an inch of rain is exactly what your lawn and garden needs and wants. In a severe heat wave and/or further South, you can water deeply twice a week. Always water in the early morning; never in the evening, never in the heat of the day, never for short periods of time, and at the base of the plants if possible. For lots more wise watering info, see this PREVIOUS QUESTION OF THE WEEK.

  • 3. They prune for the heck of it.
    NEVER prune a plant because {quote} “you feel like it” or {quote} “it’s a nice day for it”; both are guaranteed to result in horticultural disaster and an Aero-Bed being dragged out to the garage by the {quote} “helpful” spouse. Simple rules: Prune nothing in the Fall! Take up woodworking if you have to, but keep your hands off those pruners. Prune big, non-flowering trees in the dead of winter. Prune Spring blooming trees and shrubs immediately after they flower in the Spring. For other plants, visit several University websites, and if you still can’t figure it out, leave it alone. For more pruning info, see this PREVIOUS QUESTION OF THE WEEK.

  • 4. They spray pesticides ‘blindly’.
    One listener recently asked for help with an insect problem, explaining that he had dusted the plants with the insecticide Sevin every couple of days for the past several months without any effect—at least on the insects. Another listener reported that Sevin had not helped her diseased roses. “Perhaps that’s because it’s an insecticide and not a fungicide”, I replied. Why had she used it?: “It was the only thing in the house”. But my favorite was the listener who sprayed Atrazaine on her Japanese beetles, and the plants now looked dead. What could she do to avoid this next year? “Try not spraying your plants with an herbicide,” was my best guess. When in doubt, don’t spray.

  • 5. They use wood mulch.
    Never use wood or bark to mulch your plants; it can suck food right out of their soil, prevent water from reaching their roots and rot the bark if the mulch actually touches the plant. You can safely use wood mulches to keep weeds down in your garden paths; that’s it. And what about {quote} “landscape mulch”? Every time we warn that wood and bark mulches breed a fungus that irrevocably stains homes and cars, we get a flood of emails saying, “we always hear you say not to use wood mulches, and now the side of our house is covered with little black dots; that’s not because of our wood mulch, is it?” For lots more mulching info, see this PREVIOUS QUESTION OF THE WEEK.

  • 6. They pay no attention to soil pH.
    pH is a measure of your soil’s acidity or alkalinity. A pH of 7 is neutral. Most plants thrive at a slightly acidic pH of 6 to 6.5. Some of our most popular plants—azaleas, rhododendrons and blueberries—require a VERY low pH to thrive. Very few plants like an alkaline pH. That’s why you should never lime your lawn ‘because you heard you should’; have the pH tested and then apply lime if it’s needed. Give plants the soil pH they prefer and many garden problems will simply vanish.

  • 7. They feed their plants instead of their soil.
    It’s easy to spray Miracle-Gro or spread Osmocote. And weeds, pests and disease just love it when you weaken your poor plants with those concentrated chemical salts. It’s the same as with us: Good food = good health. Trashy fast food = a litany of problems. Two inches of compost a year is all the food plants in the Northern half of the country require. Another two inches later in the season down South, where plants grow for a much longer period of time. As Groucho famously said, “The only thing you’ll notice is the improvement.”

  • 8. They confuse compost with manure.
    Manure is not compost. “Compost” is made from yard waste that has been shredded and piled up until it has turned into a rich, black material that feeds your plants, prevents disease and improves the very structure of your soil. Composted manure can be an effective fertilizer—but only FOR SOME PLANTS, and it will not prevent disease. Don’t use horse or poultry manure on flowering plants and never use any kind of raw manure.

  • 9. They needlessly fear insects and spiders.
    Native bees are harmless to you and essential pollinators in your garden. Virtually all spiders are harmless to you and fabulous predators of pest insects. That insect you aimlessly sprayed could be a baby ladybug or other garden friend. Destroy all the life in your garden and…well—you’ll destroy all the life in your garden. For lots more info on beneficial insects, see this PREVIOUS QUESTION OF THE WEEK; THIS ONE for bees; and THIS ONE for spiders.

  • 10. They use pesticides INSIDE their home; eek!
    It is dangerous to spray chemical pesticides in your garden; those nerve toxins and hormonal disruptors are much more deadly to you than they are to garden pests. But spraying poisons INSIDE your home, where you’re inhaling those life-shortening fumes every minute, is beyond nuts! Every indoor pest can be safely controlled without poisons.

Ask Mike A Question Mike’s YBYG Archives Find YBYG Show

If I’m mulching, will plants self-seed and spread?

Mulches are normally good for the garden where there is bare soil, as the mulch breaks down to compost, the soil when dug is enriched , air is added, the composted mulch helps retsin moisture in the soil AND can act like a blanket to protect roots etc from frost / freeze should you get that in your area.
You never mentioned what you used as mulch or how deep the mulch is, that would give more info regarding did you do well or not LOL.
Humus rich mulches are best for using in flower / veg areas as when they break down into the soil they do as mentioned above.
IF you use gravel, large wood chips etc then these act as a weed preventative rather than add goodness to the soil for Veg / Flowering plants and are best used for pathways, around trees or any ground that’s NOT in use but bare and needs weed prevention.
How to get self seeding to take place. Depending on the plants, nature can help this, even IF there’s mulches, the mulch should be loose in structure enough to allow little seedlings to take hold.
You get weed seeds growing all over mulches so be assured that if the mulches are NOT thick wood, then self seeding should take place BUT be aware, birds, insects animals all help spread seeds weeds or otherwise, wind blows seeds around too.
I would think the best way for you to sow or get seedlings to grow in the patch is to pick the DRIED seed-heads from the type of plants you want to resow, either scatter them at the CORRECT time of year OR sow the seeds into a pot of good quality seed compost and germinate them inside or outside by placing the pots in a sheltered place. I would cover the pots with a sheet of glass or clear kitchen cling film you cover food with BUT make a few holes for ventilation, no air flow will bring mould to the seeds. maybe take the cover off in day time and replace for night. water the seeds in the pots from below by sitting the pots in a saucer of water till the soil goes darker, allow the pot to drain. by bottom watering you dont disturb the seeds.
Hope this helps you out a little
Good luck.
Kindest Regards.

For those who are into sustainable gardening, producing food long-term without a lot of external inputs like fertilizer, mulching can be crucial to what’s happening. For many, mulching equates to going to the garden center or hardware store and buying a product in a bag, but sustainable gardeners think differently. They grow their own.

Good mulch plants have some common traits. They tend to be fast-growing plants, providing an abundance of organic matter. Drought-resistance, non-competitiveness, and slow-spreading are all notable qualities. Ideally, for humans at least, mulch plants don’t tend to be thorny or rough to touch, and they are easy to cut. Lastly, it helps if they break down fast, moving from mulch to soil so that those nutrients are available to plants.


While it may seem strange to use up garden space to grow things that aren’t for the kitchen, it’s important to remember they are also contributing. Mulch plants are giving back to the soil because we can’t continually take from it and expect it to stay fertile. They are protecting the garden from erosion, and they are keeping the soil moist by shading it from the sun. They are adding valuable biodiversity, which helps with pollinators and can deter or distract pests.

Frankly put, there is no debate as to whether or not mulch plants are beneficial, but more so, the debate lies in choosing which ones to grow.

1. Comfrey

Comfrey is the permaculture champion. It’s a vigorous grower with huge leaves that have medicinal qualities and tiny flowers that bees absolutely love. It is also a dynamic accumulator, meaning it has a deep-reaching taproot that pulls up nutrients from far below the reach of other plants and makes them available at the surface. The leaves can also be used to make a rich tea to be used as a fertilizer or to speed up compost decomposition. Though it has been known to spread too much, comfrey’s positives outweigh the negatives.


2. Aquatic Plants

Reeds, rushes, and cattails all make fantastic mulch plants. They grow very quickly, and for those with small ponds or graywater systems, they help filter the water. They also tend to be high in nitrogen. The other beauty of using aquatic plants for mulch is that there is no threat of them spreading or causing a competitive problem with the crop. Obviously, the downside is that they require water, but for those with water harvesting or graywater cycling going on, these can be a real possibility.

3. Jerusalem Artichoke

Like comfrey, perhaps even more so, Jerusalem artichoke has the reputation as being a tad intrusive, i.e. taking over a garden bed. Perhaps the trick to dealing with this, however, is to put these into a contained bed. They propagate by root, so this will eliminate them growing where they aren’t wanted. Otherwise, they are awesome mulch plants because they produce a huge amount of biomass to use for mulch, as well as more tubers than most growers can eat.


4. Nitrogen-Fixing Trees/Shrubs


There is a select group of plants that have a symbiotic relationship with bacterial nodes on their roots. The nodes trade nitrogen for oxygen from the plant. Nitrogen then fertilizes the plant. When the top of the plant is cut, all of the nitrogen from the roots is released into the soil for other plants to use, and the nitrogen-fixer grows back. Plus, the leaves and branches of the cut plant are put on top of the ground to feed the soil. Alders, locusts, and pea shrubs (Russian, Siberian, or Pygmy) are all good for this. Some do require some timely maintenance to prevent spreading.


5. Burdock

Big leaves and a far-reaching taproot make burdock another great plant for growing mulch. Otherwise, nearly all parts of it can be used for something medicinal, specifically with regards to digestion and livers. The whole plant is also edible. As far as mulch, its leaves and stems can be chopped and thrown into the garden, and the plant will regrow quickly. It’s biennial (has a two-year life cycle), though, so at some point a few plants will need to be left to go to seed.

6. Clover


For those looking for groundcover mulch plants, there are a lot of options out there. Clover, especially the low-growing ones like New Zealand white clover, are fantastic. They can act as living mulches, doing all the work of mulch while they are alive. The roots of clover even work well for soil conditioning. They can spread very well, fixing nitrogen no less, but they are easy to remove when it’s time to plant something. Though they are considered a weed in lawns, in gardens they are respected for preventing weeds.

Planting for the good of the garden is a very important part of growing food sustainably. If we simply harvest without ever giving back, it will lead to an agricultural system completely dependent on chemical fertilizers and biocides. Instead, with a little mulch growing, we can make healthy gardens at home that supply healthy ingredients for healthy meals from our kitchens.

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Photo: Penny Woodward

Although we are getting much better at mulching our soils, we sometimes forget that as the weather warms up, plants in pots benefit from mulch too. In the natural environment, no piece of soil is ever left uncovered, leaves and other debris form natural mulches, or plants move in to colonise the gaps. In pots, mulches can reduce water loss, add nutrients, and suppress weeds as well as keeping soils cooler or warmer, depending on the mulch.

Always make sure that the soil in the pots you’re mulching is moist, if not, water thoroughly first. Also, the more open the mulch the thicker it can be spread and still allow water penetration. So even in pots, open hay and straw mulches can be up to 15–20cm thick, while finer mulches like sugarcane mulch should only be 2cm. If a fine mulch is too thick it can compact into a layer that’s impenetrable to water. Also if rain is only light, then no matter what mulch you use, it may only dampen the mulch not the soil underneath. Never place mulch too close to trunks of small trees growing in pots or the subsequent humidity around the bark, may cause a fungal disease called collar rot.

My favourite open mulches are lucerne hay, pea straw and sugarcane mulch. The first two put nitrogen back into the soil, while the last is perfect for smaller pots. Other hays and straws can add weed seed, but these three don’t, although you will have a few stray pea seedlings coming up from the pea straw. These are readily dealt with by pulling out and adding them to salads.

These three mulches all break down easily, feeding worms and microorganisms in the potting mix as they do. They retain moisture in the soil and suppress weeds. In hot regions thick layers will help to keep soil cool and prevent soil loss from heavy rain. All hays and straws also feed the bacterial component of the soil microbiome. Lucerne hay has a C:N ratio of 30:1 and provides the perfect nutritional balance for both plants and the soil microbiota. It also contains microscopic protozoa that are eaten by worms, so lucerne hay attracts worms into the potting mix too.

Slugs can be a problem under mulch, so if you are planting seedlings in a pot, then protect them with a PVC collar with a strip of copper tape around the top. Remove these guards once plants are big enough to cope with a little damage.

Inert substances like stones and gravel can look good in pots too, and will help to keep the soil cool if they are pale colours, or warm if dark colours. These mulches will suppress weeds, and keep soils cool or warm depending on the colour. However they don’t add nutrients or feed the microbiome of the soil. In the Cranbourne Botanic Gardens they found that many native plants mulched with non-plant-based mulches such as stones and gravel, grew deeper roots and plants grew better. Stones and gravel are also the best mulches to use in bushfire prone areas, especially close to the house.

By: Penny Woodward

First published: August 2018

Peter Cundall: Mulch tips to protect your plants

MULCHES are layers of materials spread over the surface of the soil to suppress weeds, seal in moisture and even ­increase fertility.

They can be composed of different types of organic matter, pebbles, ­gravel screenings or even flat stones.

Any kind of organic matter can be used as a mulch, but different materials are used according to the amount of cultivation needed.

In an ornamental garden, the main aim is to suppress weeds while retaining soil moisture, so long-lasting mulches are best.

They include pulverised or coarse pine bark or woodchips, spread over the surface to a depth of about 10cm.

These tough materials break down slowly and often remain many years after being spread.

They are never dug in, but simply added to every now and then.

With any long-lasting mulch, feeding the soil means sprinkling fertilisers over the top and watering them in. They are the basis of most easy-care, non-dig gardens.

The most common problem with long-lasting organic mulches happens if they bear against the lower stems of many trees and shrubs, ­especially citrus.

This unnatural darkness and dampness at ground-level causes lower bark to be attacked by bacterial and fungal organisms causing “collar rot”.

The bark goes mouldy, dies and the trees or shrubs collapse. This is avoided if all mulching materials are kept well clear of plant stems.

A useful barrier is any kind of coarse road metal surrounding trunks to ensure good air circulation down to soil level while keeping organic mulches at bay.

In the vegetable garden, where soil is usually cultivated regularly, only soft mulches that decompose rapidly should be used.

They include mushroom compost, pea, bean or any other type of straw, grass clippings, leaves, wilted weeds or a mixture of soft materials.

When manures or other fertilisers, such as blood and bone, are added to and stirred into soft mulches, they also become valuable means of soil enrichment while encouraging earthworm populations.

Most vegetables can be mulched closely without harm, especially tomato and sweet corn plants.

They grow far more vigorously when feeding mulches are bearing firmly against stems near the ground.

Additional stem roots are initiated to feed from the extra layers of ­enriched, moist materials, resulting in bigger yields of tomatoes or sweet corn cobs

Mulches are best applied after vege­tables have grown large enough to avoid being buried by them.

Carrots, swedes, parsnips, beetroot and other root crops are best left surrounded by bare soil during early ­stages of growth.

Exposed soil warms more rapidly in spring, which is why mulches are best scraped to one side in late winter so sunlight can bear directly on the surface.

In fact, mulches keep soil cold in early spring by insulating it from the warm rays of the sun, so warming can be delayed by up to three weeks later than exposed soils.

Onions are never mulched ­because it makes growing bulbs turn mouldy.

However, other members of the tribe, such as garlic, can be heavily mulched, while leeks can develop tender, white shanks when deeply surrounded by layers of organic matter

Never dig in any mulching materials unless completely decomposed.

It is far better to allow the materials to naturally break down on the surface and, where necessary, ­replenished.

Plants such as herbs, alpines, cacti and most succulents must never be mulched using organic materials.

Almost all these plants need air circulating right down to soil level.

This is where road-metal screenings or pebbles — even flat stones or rocks — are ideal.

They are dense enough to suppress weeds, seal in moisture and prevent the soil becoming excessively hot in summer.

Aquatic plants, such as water lilies, need a special type of mulch because they grow in pots plunged beneath the surface of the water.

To stop the potting soil lifting and muddying a pond — especially if fish are present — a thick layer of heavy, coarse sand is spread to the rims of containers, weighing down and securing the potting soil.

Paul Alfrey from the Balkan Ecology Project looks at some of the best plants for growing your own mulch –

Growing my own mulch has long been a goal of mine. We use a lot of mulch in the nursery and garden and at the moment we have no problem sourcing straw but if/when the day comes that the farmers start using their own straw to improve their soil (which is becoming a more common practice), We’ll be needing to step up our mulch growing efforts. Currently, we grow enough mulch to sustain the perennial beds and around 10 % of the annual beds but rely on imported straw for mulching the other 90% of annual vegetable and nursery beds.

During this post we’ll look at what makes a good mulch, a range of plants that we use for mulch and some possibilities for growing mulch for broad scale use.

Mulch Growing in the Garden

What makes a good mulch plant ?

My ideal mulch plant grows fast, is drought tolerant, competes minimally with crop plants, does not contain seed that easily spreads, is easy to handle and cut, i.e, not thorny/prickly or tough and fibrous, and can biodegrade relatively quickly (thereby returning the nutrients back to soil).

I’ve broadly categorized the main sources of mulch we produce in our 1500 m2 garden and 2500 m2 market garden.

Aquatic Plants

We grow emergent wetland species such us cattails (Typha spp), sedges (Carex spp. ) and rushes (Juncus spp.) on the banks of a small pond (6m x 3m), and within a grey water reed bed (1m x 6m). The pond also provides suitable habitat for hornworts – Ceratophyllum spp. a submerged rootless perennial that gathers on the surface en masse. This plant makes an excellent mulch being rich in nitrogen, growing very fast and is easy to position around the base of plants. The emergent species provide a good thick carbon rich mulch that helps to reduce evaporation on the terrestrial beds and we cut these back in the spring in case they are used for overwintering invertebrates. Aquatic plants are an excellent source of mulch as there are no issues with seed germinating amongst your land based crops.

The wildlife pond, aka ‘the mulch machine’

Tap rooted Perennial/ Biennials

Deep rooted perennial plants tend to produce a good amount of biomass, are generally drought tolerant and do not compete strongly with our crop plants. I have found native biennial weeds such as greater burdock – Arctium lappa a very useful mulch plant with the gigantic leaves growing back very fast after a cut. Lesser burdock – Arctium minus is also useful albeit to lesser extent 🙂 Although biennial, if you cut back these plants before flowering you can prolong their life, harvesting good quantities of seed free biomass. It’s good to allow some of the plants to flower as they are much loved by bees among other insects.

Comfrey- Symphytum x uplandicum ‘Bocking 14’ is a classic example of a deep rooted mulch plant. We have the plant scattered throughout the garden and planted in dedicated mulch production patches. The plants do require irrigation however and will only provide good leaf yields if grown on fertile soil. For more on comfrey check out our blog article here. We are also using comfrey in an experimental perennial polyculture we call the biomass belt ,dedicated to growing mulch see here more on this.

A Perennial Polyculture dedicated to growing Mulch. – The Biomass Belt

Helianthus tuberosus – Jerusalem Artichoke provide a great source of biomass. For a good tuber harvest its best to wait until the end of the season before harvesting the mulch. We can never consume as much as we produce of these tubers in the kitchen but have found them to be much appreciated by our pigs and an excellent source of fresh winter food for our rabbits.

Leaves of Greater Burdock – Arctium lappa

Nitrogen Fixing Trees and Shrubs

These plants take a while to establish but make an excellent contribution. I’ve had good results from coppicing Paulownia tomentosa – Empress Tree when they are 3 yrs old and chop and dropping the soft new growth 3 or 4 times a year. I am expecting to also see good results from Alnus incana – Grey Alder and Alnus cordata – Italian Alder. I avoid using thorny nitrogen fixing trees and shrubs for this purpose. Annual trimming of shrubs such as Elaeagnus umbellata – Autumn Olive and Cytisus scoparius – Broom also provides good quantities of mulch.

Lawn and Ground Cover

One of my favourite sources of mulch is lawn trimmings. They are great for mulching potted plants or applying a mulch into tight spots. Mixed species lawns will contain a more diverse mix of mineral nutrients, and lawns including a legume such as Trifolim repens – White Clover can provide a nitrogen rich mulch. It’s a good idea to leave some of the trimmings behind to keep the lawn healthy.

Bellis perennis, Trifolium pratense, Taraxadum officinale amongst others in our lawn

Autumn Leaf Fall and Herbaceous Stem Residue.

The annual shedding of leaves from trees and shrubs in our garden make a great contribution to our mulch capital. Leaves can be cleared from paths, lawns and wildflower beds (as they will disrupt the growth in these areas) and concentrated where they are of benefit such as the base of high demanding fruiting shrubs such as Blackcurrants or Blackberries.

Herbaceous perennials such as Mellisa officinalis – Lemon Balm and Mentha spp.- Mints will provide dead stems annually. It’s always a good idea to leave hollow stems of some herbaceous perennials to remain for the winter as they are utilized by invertebrates for egg laying and hibernating. If the plant does not have a hollow stem it can be cut back and used for mulch. Foeniculm vulgare – Fennel provides large quantities of biomass and as far as I can tell the stems are not utilised by any organism over the winter.

In the vegetable garden all the remnants of my crops after harvesting go straight back to the surface for recycling.

Foeniculum vulgare and other herbaceous perennials

Tree Prunings

Woody prunings from shrubs, trees and vines cut into small pieces (5-10cm) make good mulch in the mature areas of the forest garden with well established fungal soils specializing in breaking down the lignified woody material.

Living Mulches

In the more mature areas of the garden where the trees have established (5 yrs and older) I have dispensed with mulch all together in favour of ground cover plants that can be considered living mulches. Some the most successful perennial living mulches I have found that form good dense cover in the shade include Ajuga reptans – Bugle, Lamium maculatum – Spotted Dead Nettle, Sedem spurium – Caucasian Stonecrop , Vinca major -Perwinkle and Stachys officinalis – Betony.

Lamium maculatum spreading well under a Morus alba – Mullbery

C4 and other Grasses

Another great option for mulch production is perennial grasses that produce large amounts of biomass, can grow on poor to average soils are drought tolerant, reproduce via rhizomatous growth and have seed ripening from late June on wards or have sterile seed. C4 grasses are even more suitable – For more on C4 plants see here.

Two plants that appear most suitable are Miscanthus x giganteus (C4) and Arundo donax (C3). In an experiment you can find here recorded yields of biomass were 40 t/ha/yr in M.giganteus and 30 t/ha/yr in A.donax.

We are offering Miscanthus x giganteus plants from our nursery stock see here for our plant profile and have started growing it this year.

Scaling up Mulch Production

In order to grow enough mulch to provide a water retaining, weed excluding barrier for my annual and nursery beds I would certainly need more space. A larger wetland area would be ideal, with aquatic species growing very fast and the seed bearing parts of the plants being non problematic to use on terrestrial beds. If you don’t have a reliable aquatic habitat, the next best option for growing quantities of mulch without irrigation and fertilization is probably grass.

Check here where I share a plan to grow enough mulch to support approx 670 fruit trees and 1360 soft fruit shrubs on a 5ha Agroforestry Project.

Alley Cropping Site Design

If you have a favourite mulch plant, let us know in the comment box below and if you have found this post informative please share.

Our plant and seed orders are coming in for Autumn delivery. If you would like to purchase some plants this year to avoid disappointment order early as we have limited stock available.

Seeds for Forest Gardens and Permaculture Balkan Ecology Project Bio-Nursery

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