Planter pots for trees

Rattan, Bamboo, Fiberglass & Plastic Indoor & Outdoor Decorative Planters

Indoor and Outdoor Decorative Planters

Enjoy a wide selection of decorative planters and baskets including rattan planters, bamboo planters, and plastic planters, each of which will enhance the look of your fake plants, trees, flowers, and arrangements. We provide great photography with zoom-in tool functions so you can view each planter or basket up close to get an intimate sense of what it will look like in your home or office, foyer, mantle, or table-top. You’ve chosen your artificial trees and artificial plants but you need a silver platter to show them off. Not an actual silver platter, of course, but a planter that flatters your display in the best possible way.

Choosing The Right Indoor Decorative Planter

Just as the wrong indoor decorative planter detracts from the visual impact of your silk plant, the right decorative planter will enhance it. It’s actually one of the most important elements of a successful display, right up there with location and lighting. You want to make sure you get this right, so take your time to browse our extensive selection of artificial plants, trees and indoor decorative planters so you can make an informed choice when making your purchase. All our products are of the highest quality, so whatever you choose is sure to add a touch of class to your indoor space.

Large Outdoor Planters For Trees

Please take note of the potting options available with your artificial plant or tree purchase. They may already come potted. Or, you may mistakenly think they come potted in a decorative planter because the product photo may display it. Be sure to read the specifications tab underneath the photo carefully to avoid this mistake. Also, your artificial plant or tree might come potted in a decorative pot in a variety of colors. If so, make sure the decorative planter or basket will fit with your décor and is completely suitable for your home or office.

Large Pots For Trees

If you want to buy your artificial tree in a pot all ready to position in your sunroom, atrium or conservatory, then our extensive collection will not disappoint. We have a huge range of large pots for trees and indoor tree planters that will present your artificial plant in the best light possible.

What could look better than a ready-potted, low maintenance fake tree adorning your home or commercial space? Just check when you make your purchase that the pot you want already comes with the tree you’ve selected – as some of the products in our collection have their planters included in the price and some don’t.

Large Planters For Trees

Another aspect of large planters for trees and decorative indoor planters for trees – is that they have often been designed specifically for the size and weight of the artificial tree that will sit in them. What can happen if you select the wrong size planter is that the tree inside overbalances and topples over. So if your choice of fake plant doesn’t already come with its own pot – just make sure you get the right size planter for the product your select. If you have any problems just give us a call on 1.888.532.0232 and we’ll be happy to help. We want to make sure that your trees in planters look exceptional when you get them home!

Shop Now For Artificial Trees and Plant Planters

If you know what kinds of artificial trees in pots would look best in your home or office, simply shop our secure online store now. All orders are backed by our hassle free returns policy, and our one year guarantee as standard across every product in our collection. You’ll also receive free shipping on all orders over $49, so act now and purchase your artificial trees and planters today.

Flowerdale Nursery & Landscaping


Cherimoyas are tropical forest trees known as Annona cherimola. This wonderful fruit comes from forests on the Andes of Ecuador, Colombia, & Peru. Cherimoya trees are evergreen though they can be briefly deciduous during cold weather. Cherimoya fruit is prized for its fruity, sweet, almost custard-like flavor. Custard Apple is an appropriate nickname for the Cherimoya which describes its creamy texture. The fruit is best eaten fresh but can be made into delicious fruit drinks or smoothies. This is one of the most exotic fruits that can be grown well in Orange County. In fact Cherimoyas have been grown in Coastal Southern California since the late 1800’s. The fruits appearance is unusual looking somewhat like an artichoke. Cherimoya trees grow to about 25 feet wide & high. Cherimoyas can be grown to fruit successfully only in large containers with adequate nutrients. Cherimoyas are often grafted to improve their tolerance to cold & disease.

What Cherimoyas Like

Exposure: Cherimoyas demand full sun in order to produce good quality fruit. Cherimoyas do not tolerate windy exposed conditions well. Areas where Cherimoyas thrive do not experience temperatures that fall much below 25 degrees. Cherimoyas grow best in warm frost free climates away from the immediate coast. Cherimoyas thrive when days are warm (70 to 90 degrees) & the nights cool & moist (48 to 60). These trees grow well in Southern California in USDA zones 9 & 10 as well as Sunset zones 18 through 24. Indigenous inhabitants of the Andes say that “although the cherimoya cannot stand snow, it does like to see it in the distance”.

Soil: Cherimoyas grow best in loamy rich well drained shallow soils, however they are tolerant of both sandy & clay soils. Cherimoyas are shallow rooted & can absorb nutrients quickly. These trees resent being planted in saline, heavy, or poorly drained soils. Adding organic compost once or twice a year as mulch 4 to 8 inches thick on the soil under the canopy makes a big difference on improving the quantity & quality of fruit.

Irrigation: Cherimoyas need regular deep soakings (about three times a month) spring through fall. During the winter, if rains fail irrigate once a month. Do not water trees in cold or wet weather.

Diet: Feeding Cherimoya trees once a season (or once every three months) provides evenly spaced feedings that will sustain growth year round. Fertilize with organic granular fertilizers. We recommend Dr. Earth Organic Fruit Tree Fertilizer. Adding a layer of organic compost, once or twice a year as mulch will also increase the soils fertility. Cherimoyas are prone to iron & nitrogen deficiency in our native soils (causes yellowing of the foliage). Iron deficiency manifests itself in that the mature foliage stays green while the young new growth turns yellow. To remedy this add Iron Plus granular iron or a Chelated Liquid Iron. Nitrogen deficiency manifests itself in that the older foliage turns yellow while the young new growth remains green. Fertilizing regularly & adding compost to the soil are the best ways to combat nitrogen deficiency.

Pruning: Cherimoyas benefit from pruning. A tree with an open structure with a dense canopy of foliage but an uncluttered crown of branches is ideal. Remove all dead & crossing branches whenever noticed. Keep your trees short & compact this makes harvesting & pruning easier (mature trees can be kept easily to 15 to 25 feet for years). Dwarf & container grown trees benefit from being staked. It is beneficial to keep the branches off the ground & away from fences or buildings. This helps prevent fruit rats from easily gaining access to the trees canopy. Care must be taken to quickly remove any foliage & branches that sprout below the graft union (the place where the fruiting upper portion of the plant is grafted onto the lower rootstock portion).

Harvesting: Spring & early summer are the peak season for Cherimoya fruit harvest. Harvest the fruit when they turn pale yellow green, & are slightly soft to the touch. Flavor can be improved if fruit is harvested slightly unripe, then left to ripen at room temperature indoors (in bright indirect light). Cut the fruit from the tree instead of pulling it off to avoid damaging the easily bruised fruit. Never put Cherimoya fruit in the refrigerator because it damages them. The fruit bruise easily & have a short shelf life. The seeds are poisonous so don’t eat them!

Pollination: Since natural pollinators are not present in California, the flowers must be pollinated by hand. This is best done in mid-season of bloom, over a period of two to three months. In the early evening, collect in a small bottle the anthers & pollen from the interior of fully open male flowers with a #2 or #3 artists brush. Anthers will be tan colored & the white pollen falling from them. The pollen has its highest viability at the time it is shed & declines significantly with time. Immediately apply freshly collected pollen with a small brush to the flowers in partially open female stage flower. If no female stage flowers are available, pollen may be saved in the sealed container under refrigeration overnight. Pollen may then be applied to female stage flowers in the morning. Pollinate every two or three days, & only flowers easily reached inside the tree. Too much fruit may result in small size & adversely affect future yields.

Frost Protection: When the temperature drops below 32 degrees but stays above 28 to 25 degrees we experience a “light” or “white” frost. This type of frost causes damage to young growth & the damage is usually superficial. When the temperature drops below 28 to 25 degrees we then experience a “black” or “killing” frost. This type of frost causes greater damage to the plant tissues. The duration of any frost is also important to consider. The longer the temperatures are below freezing the greater the damage. There are several ways to protect tropical fruit trees from frost damage:

Covering your plant with a sheet or tarp-like material will provide protection down to 20 degrees. Note, any foliage that touches the frost barrier may be damaged.
Circulating the air using fans is also helpful for frost protection down to 20 degrees.
Believe it or not, spraying your plants with water can actually insulate the plants. Liquid water itself will provide heat, & as water freezes into ice it gives off heat.

Provide some sort of external heat source. Active sources include heaters, while passive sources absorb heat during the day & radiate it out at night. Examples of passive heat include barrels of water, stacks of boulders, & the earth itself.

Varieties

Chaffey- is a variety from West Los Angeles developed in 1945. Chaffey produces a vigorous tree that can bear large harvests of fruit (even though the fruit itself is somewhat small). Chaffey boasts a bright sweet lemony flavor perfect for eating out of hand.

El Bumpo- in 1986 Rudy Haluza of Villa Park California developed one of the best Cherimoyas available. El Bumpo was named because the medium sized fruit had extra large “bumps”. The skin is very thin & is almost edible; the flesh has an exquisite flavor & soft creamy texture.

Honeyhart- was developed in Orange County California in the 1930’s. This variety has medium to large sized fruits with a yellowish green skin. This variety is best for making drinks as it has extremely juicy almost gelatinous flesh with a sweet syrupy flavor.

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How to Grow Cherimoya Fruit

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A very exotic and unusual fruit, the cherimoya is a sweet fruit that tastes a lot like a pear and has a soft, smooth texture. Because of its short shelf life, cherimoyas aren’t sold in stores, but you can learn how to grow cherimoya fruit in your own garden and enjoy this sweet, exotic fruit! Unfortunately, since they are an exotic fruit, cherimoyas can only be grown in USDA zones 10 and 11 or in a greenhouse. But if you do live in one of those two zones, we highly recommend you plant this amazing fruit as it tastes absolutely amazing!

While cherimoya fruit are easy to care for, one thing that makes them difficult to grow is fertilizing the flowers. The male and female parts of the flower each mature at different times. Because of this, you must hard-pollinate the flowers by transferring the pollen from one flower to the mature stigma on another.

Planting Cherimoya Fruit:

  • Choose a sunny location in your garden and plant to plant in an area where the plant will be protected from strong winds.
  • Plant your transplanted tree in well drained soil. Keep the soil level of the tree even with the level of the surrounding soil, and back-fill with dirt removed the from the hole. Do not ammend in any way.
  • Water the newly planted tree deeply and space each tree 25-30 feet apart.
  • Water young trees every 15-20 days during the growing season.
  • Do not water for about 4 months during dormancy in the winter.
  • Discontinue watering mature trees once the fruit is fully ripe.

Care:

  • Fertilize young trees twice each year with 10-8-6 fertilizer in 6-inch deep trenches dug around the tree at a distance of 5 feet from the trunk. Use 1/2 pound of fertilizer when the tree is six months old and 1 pound when it is a year old. Feed the tree twice with 1 pound of fertilizer in the second year. Switch to 1 pound of 6-10-8 fertilizer for each feeding the third year and increase the feeding by 1 pound each year until you are using 5 pounds of fertilizer at each feeding.
  • Prune the tree to two main main lateral branches with angles of at least 60 degrees from the trunk.

So now that you know how to grow cherimoya fruit, it’s time to roll up your sleeves and get to planting!

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Cherimoya tree growing tree of the genus Annona, and also known as Annona cherimola, Cherimoya perennial evergreen but in a cold weather become deciduous plant, grow for the edible fruits, can grow in tropics, mediterranean or subtropical climate and growing in hardiness zone 10+.

Flower small green-yellowish, separate times on the same tree female and male flower, flowers are protogyny at first female and after become a male flower, female stage and male stage in the early morning in the afternoon.

Cherimoya fruits

Fruit outer skin of the fruit is dandruff skin the dandruff part of the skin and the color of the skin green-yellow and the inner color is white-yellow, fruits in heart shape.

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How to grow and care for Cherimoya tree:

How to take care of Cherimoya tree:
Two trees for increase the chance of pollination grow the trees, prune once a year, fertilize 4 time a year (when the tree is young more nitrogen), cover the soil in mulch, add humus and organic matter.

How to plant cherimoya:
Dig hole bigger 50% more than the roots ball, add to the hole, organic matter, dead leaves and hummus put back some soil and mix it, after this put the tree cover lightly but strong enough that won’t fall put support for the tree if needed, if the tree is not stable consider to prune, water it twice in the first day and every day for two weeks.

What is the best way to start growing?
Plant / Seeds / Seedling / vegetative reproduction – air layering or cutting

Is it necessary to graft?
Yes

Difficulties or problems when growing:
Low amount of fruit caused by the difference blooming hours between flower for male and female and require hand pollination

Planting season:
Spring, summer, autumn

Pests and diseases:
Aphids

Pruning season:
Winter

How to prune:
Cut the outer branch, make the branches grow into each other in density, take by hand the leaves, prune the two trees that will grow, one into the other tree

Tree size?
2-5 m, 6-15 feet, (better to keep it small that will be easy to hand pollinate

Growth speed in optimal condition:
Medium growing

Water requirement:
Average amount of water

Light conditions in optimal condition for growing:
Full Sun / Half Shade

Is it possible to grow as houseplant (indoor)?
No

Growing is also possible in a planter /flowerpot / containers:
Yes

Cherimoya tree in container:
When growing need to keep the tree small to grow it as shrub or as bonsai, consider to graft two cultivars on the same tree, container need to be 20% bigger than the root ball until the plant arrive to the desirable container, wouldn’t recommend to start from big container on small tree in this method it’s care for the viability of the soil, grow container with the tree will be the best method making enough holes in the container for good drainage also choosing soil for container important an option it’s to use peat soil, perlite and organic matter, care instruction every few years to switch the soil with big container there is no need to switch all the soil just switch part and cut some of the roots ball (can switch from the side and the top, fertilizer four time a year, need to add hummus few time a year, water it regularly and when put bottom for the pot be aware not to let the water stay there more than one day and do not over water it’s destroy the soil and the roots.

Blooming information

Bloom season:
Spring / Summer

General information about the flower
Small green-yellowish flower, separate times on the same tree female and male flower, the flowers are protogyny at first female and after becomes a male flower, female stage and male stage in the early morning in the afternoon.

Thinning the bloom:
First two years

Pollination is done by:
Beetles, bees, hand-pollinate

How to pollinate:
Hand pollination performed by collecting the male pollen by cotton swabs and pollinating the female flowers. Gathering flowers in a male form, (make sure that the flowers from weak area or not next to female flower). Keep flowers in a dark place, high humidity, preferably in a cool and ventilated place, if the flower pollen has been took out, the male flower not useful, grow two different cultivars increase the chance to get fruits another tip to increase chances to pollinate also trough dead fruits and vegetable that attract beetles like peel of watermelon and melon.

Edible Fruits

Fruit harvest season:
Summer / Autumn

Fruits pests or diseases:
Birds, aphids

What can be done with big quantities of Cherimoya fruits?
Eaten raw, juice, cakes, jam

Work requirements on the fruit:
Increase Irrigation, possible to put net under the tree to collect the fruits

How long does it take for a Cherimoya tree to bear fruit?
2-4 years, from seeds take the fruits 4 years and even more, from grafted tree can take 2-3 years, but to bear fruit in big quantities after 7-9 years

Ripening of fruit
Recommend to collect the fruit little bit before ready

How to grow Cherimoya tree from seed

Sowing requirement:
Better in peat soil with vermiculite possible in other soils, take care that the soil will be well ventilated (better result)

Saving seeds until sowing:
Dry and dark location, keep it room temperature

Sowing season:
Spring will be the best for the tree but possible in summer, and in hardiness zone 12+ possible all year

Planting spacing:
Better in different pots – because need to graft it after and some won’t establish, better to choose the best to transplant to the real location

Depth of Sowing:
3-5cm, (~1-2inches)

How to plant Cherimoya seeds:
Dig a hole bigger than the seeds cover it lightly better with peat soil or vermiculite

Conditions for seeds germinate:
Moist soil, sunny location, water regularly and don’t let it dry

Watering requires for Seeds:
Average amount of water

Germination time:
2-4 weeks

Condition of seedling:
Sunny location, humidity and moist soil

Scientific name:

Annona cherimola

Alternative names: Chirimoya, Chirimuya custard apple

Blooming Seasons

  • Spring flowers
  • Summer flowers

Edible Parts

  • Edible Fruit

Culinary Uses

  • Alcoholic beverages
  • Dried fruit
  • Eaten raw
  • Fruit
  • Ice pop & Ice cream plants
  • Jams
  • Juice

Flower Colors

  • Green flower
  • Yellow flower

Climate

  • Mediterranean Climate
  • Subtropics Climate
  • Tropics Climate

Harvest season

  • Autumn Harvest
  • Summer Harvest

Plant growing speed

  • Average growing plants

Plant life-form

  • Deciduous
  • Evergreen
  • Perennial plant
  • Tree

Plant uses

  • Edible plants

Planting season

  • Autumn Planting
  • Spring Planting
  • Summer planting

Plants sun exposure

  • Full sun Plants
  • Part shade Plants

Watering plants

  • Regularly water

Hardiness zone

  • Hardiness zone 10
  • Hardiness zone 11
  • Hardiness zone 12
  • Hardiness zone 13

Growing trees in containers is an easy way to add a variety of color, texture, and size to your outdoor garden or patio space, as well as an effective solution for small-space gardens that don’t have the room for full-sized trees. Plus, trees grown in pots can live in climates that would otherwise be too cold for them, so even gardeners living in cold climates can grow trees like fig and bay that are native to warmer climates. You might just feel like you’re in the Mediterranean!

Trees add a sense of serenity, beauty, and wilderness to any space, but if you don’t have a very large yard, you might think it’s out of the question for you to add trees to your garden. Trees need a ton of space in order to thrive, right? Wrong! Growing trees in containers is actually a great way to cultivate many different varieties of tree. Simply make sure that you choose the right container and the right tree, and you’re on your way to growing your very own mini forest.

Choosing a Container

Pick a container that has good drainage holes and consider choosing something made of a breathable material like wood or clay to promote drainage. In general, your container should be no bigger than twice the volume of the tree’s roots. Keep in mind that very heavy pots are not the best choice for this project. Remember, you will probably be moving your container around once you’ve planted the tree, and a heavy pot planted with soil and a tree is a pain to carry.

Planting

Transplant trees from their nursery pots after the final frost of the season. Line the bottom of the new pot with a layer of foam peanuts to promote good drainage without adding extra weight. Plant the tree at the same depth it has been growing in its nursery pot, using a good, nutrient-rich soil mix. Follow individual instructions for watering and light requirements as stated on the plant tag.

Dwarf Fig (Ficus carica)

Make sure you choose a dwarf fig tree marked “self-fertile” if you want it to produce fruit. Fig trees like lots of natural light, so place them somewhere where they will get 7 hours of full sun per day. If leaves turn yellow it is not a sign of too much sun, but of overwatering.

For more information on growing figs, check out this post.

Olive (Olea europaea)

Olives are very hardy and can live for up to a thousand years! Your container-grown olive probably won’t live quite that long, but it can thrive happily for many years. If you live in a cold climate, bring the tree indoors for the winter, placing it somewhere bright and away from heaters or drafts. Olives are happiest with 6 hours of full sun per day. Water when the top 3 inches of soil are dry.

Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum)

Japanese maples take well to being planted in containers because they have a slow growth rate and small root systems. Choose a dwarf variety, place it somewhere away from wind and intense sunlight, and prune any dead branches as they appear.

Bay (Laurus nobilis)

Bay trees are aesthetically pleasing as they produce small yellow flowers in spring, purple berries in the fall, and can be pruned into topiaries. Use the sweet, earthy, flavorful leaves to amp up soups and other recipes. Harvest leaves when they are large and fully mature and allow them to dry out for 2-3 days before using, as the fresh leaves have a bitter taste that fades when they are dried.

Fertilize in the spring and water regularly and deeply, letting soil dry out somewhat between watering. Add a layer of pebbles to the top of the soil to deter hungry squirrels from digging up the roots.

Dwarf Conifers

Dwarf varieties of fir, cypress, hemlock, spruce, juniper, and pine are great for growing in pots as they are very low maintenance, come in many different colors, shapes, and textures, and they are very slow growing, which means they can live in the same pot for up to 5 years. They can also stay outside during the colder months, providing color to an otherwise drab winter landscape (you can even add some decorations, if you like).

Dwarf conifers have especially small root systems, so you can group several together in one container like I did in this window box planter project.

More Posts You Might Like:

  • The Art of Espalier: Growing Fruit Trees in Small Spaces
  • The Wonderful Story of How Japanese Maples are Born
  • How to Remove Suckers from Trees (and Why they are There in the First Place)
  • A Guide for Growing Figs in the Home Garden
  • Tour One of the Top Japanese Gardens in North America

Growing Trees in Containers

When people think about container gardens, they often imagine dainty hanging baskets or herbs in window boxes. Let’s think big! Many trees grow well in containers, and if you have a small garden (a deck? a terrace?) a containerized tree is a terrific option.

There are a few special considerations when planting a container tree. It’s not harder than planting a tree in the ground…just a little different.

Trees in containers are more vulnerable to cold than their in-ground counterparts; there’s not nearly as much soil insulating tree roots from winter temperatures. To be safe, subtract one or two USDA hardiness zone for planting in a container and one more for every ten floors above street level. For example, if you live in zone 7 and your terrace is on the tenth floor, subtract one zone for growing in a container and another for being 10 floors above ground. That means you should choose a tree hardy to zone 5.

When choosing your container, first measure the diameter of your root ball and then add 12 to 16 inches to that measurement to get the size of your new container. An extra six to eight inches of soil on all sides of the root ball will help insulate the roots. Also, providing this extra space at planting time means your tree won’t outgrow the container right away.

If you live in an area where winter temperatures get below freezing, choose a frost resistant container. Porous containers absorb water, and repeated freezing and thawing throughout the winter may cause them to crack. Wood, fiberglass, and metal are durable choices.

Check the bottom of your container for drainage holes; you may need to add more. You’ll want one inch holes at six inch intervals across the bottom of the pot. In addition to your container, you’ll need something to elevate your pot off the deck or ground. You can use special pot feet or some short pieces of pressure treated wood. Raising the container an inch off the ground will improve drainage.

To prevent the soil in the container from dribbling out the drainage holes in the bottom, cut a piece of landscape cloth or flexible screening to cover the holes. Add a few inches of potting mix to hold the cloth in place, then turn your attention to your tree.

If yours is a balled and burlapped (B&B) tree, now is the time to cut away at least the top third of the wire basket and any twine from around the trunk. Also trim away the burlap from at least the top third of the rootball; if burlap is left above ground, it will wick moisture away from the roots. If the ball is wrapped in natural burlap you may leave the rest of the burlap in place because it will biodegrade. However, if the rootball is wrapped in synthetic burlap or woven plastic fabric instead of natural burlap, you must remove the entire covering as it won’t break down and will hinder root growth. To make it easier to get the tree into the container, you can leave the bottom portions of the wire basket and rootball covering in place as you set the tree into it; then reach into the container and clip the remaining wire and covering away before backfilling the container with soil.

If you’re planting a containerized tree, slide the tree out of its pot. If the pot won’t slip off the root ball, roll the container along the ground while applying pressure, to loosen the roots. If this doesn’t work, you can cut away the container.

Once the roots are exposed, make sure they aren’t circling around the rootball. If they are, pull firmly at them to open up the root ball and spread the roots into an outward growing position. This is where people get timid, but being tentative slows you down, and the longer a tree’s roots are exposed to the air, the more likely they are to dry out. If the roots are too tightly wound to separate by hand, use a pruning saw or serrated knife to vertically slice the sides of the root ball at 3″ intervals, going about a half inch deep. Cut an X across the bottom of the root ball and use your fingers to pull the root ball apart from inside the X.

Whenever you plant a tree, whether it’s in a container or in the ground, it’s important to make sure it’s planted at the correct depth. To do this you need to look at the tree trunk to find the root flare (also called the trunk flare). This is where the straight sides of the trunk flare out at the base to meet the topmost roots in the rootball. This junction of trunk and roots is where the soil line should fall when the tree is planted. Burying the root flare can lead to rot and planting too high can expose roots that should be protected by soil.

However, you can’t always depend on the root flare being at the correct soil level in either a B&B or container rootball. Often when B&B trees are dug, soil is thrown up around the trunk, burying the roots too deep. Container grown trees may have been planted too deep. You may need to remove soil from the top of the rootball in order to uncover the root flare.

Once you’ve located the root flare, place the root ball in the new pot to see how much soil you need to add to raise the tree to the proper height. Remove the tree, add the soil, place your tree back in the pot, and double check the planting depth. Fill in around the tree with potting mix, firming in the tree as you go. Add water until it runs out the bottom of the container.

Several species that thrive in containers include Juneberry or serviceberry (Amelanchier species), crabapple (Malus species), Japanese maple Acer palmatum), purple leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), and crape myrtle (Lagerstromia indica) . Container trees will be smaller than their in-ground counterparts because limiting root growth limits top growth. But that doesn’t mean you won’t have a happy, healthy tree…it’ll just be a little smaller. Perfect for a small garden.

Ellen Zachos is the owner of Acme Plant Stuff (www.acmeplant.com), a garden design, installation, and maintenance company in NYC specializing in rooftop gardens and indoor plants. She is the author of numerous magazine articles and six books and also blogs at www.downanddirtygardening.com. Ellen is a Harvard graduate and an instructor at the New York Botanical Garden. She lectures at garden shows and events across the country.

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