- Care of Peace Lilies
- Peace lily flowers are turning black
- Caring For Your Potted Easter Lily
- Garden Hair Don’t Care Distressed Hat
- What Causes Peace Lily Leaves To Turn Yellow Or Brown
- Reasons for Peace Lilies with Brown and Yellow Leaves
- Treating a Peace Lily with Brown Tips
- Peace lilies – turning brown in center of flower?
Care of Peace Lilies
Peace lilies, or Spathiphyllum, are popular houseplants because they are generally easy to grow, have pretty flowers and can tolerate lower light levels. But lots of people do have problems with them. I would say that most of these problems relate to improper watering and fertilizing.
When you see older leaves on a plant turning yellow this usually means that the plant may be allowed to get too dry in between watering’s or the plant is in need of some nitrogen fertilizer. While overwatering is more common with houseplants, if you let them get too dried out and then don’t thoroughly saturate the root ball when you do water, they can get stressed out and start losing their lower or older leaves. I most often see this happening after you have been away from home for a trip or something and your plants got dried out and maybe wilted before you got them watered again. You might also notice that the tips or margins of the leaves are getting brown, especially during the winter months when the humidity is often very low. You may also need to repot your plant and put it in a larger container. Turn the plant upside down and tap on the pot to loosen it so you can remove it. If you see the roots are tightly packed around the outside of the root ball, it is probably time to move it to a larger pot.
Nitrogen deficiency can be quite common in some plants too. The usual symptom is the lowest and oldest leaves turn yellow. This happens because the plant will relocate nitrogen in older leaves to the more vigorously growing younger leaves. That is why the oldest leaves are the ones that usually show the nitrogen deficiency first. Just cut off the yellow leaves at the bottom, where they attach to the plant, they won’t green up again anyway. Then pick up some houseplant fertilizer and apply it according to the label directions. If a plant is growing in low light, it won’t need much fertilizer so probably just half rate will be fine. If the plant gets some sun or higher light, apply at full strength or more frequently.
Peace lily flowers are turning black
I can see some blackening at the edge of a couple of leaves too though, which often indicates a water problem, or being near a heat source. First, I don’t know whether the blackening on the spathe is caused by a deposit of some sort that can be rubbed off, like a mould of some sort, but either way, it seems likely your plant is either being over watered, or is left sitting in water in some outer container or tray. Whilst these plants do like a fair amount of water, they don’t like to be sitting in it, so if you’re not emptying any tray or container after 30 minutes when you have watered, start doing that as soon as possible.
I would cut off the spathes, or even the whole flower stem at its base (more will arrive later anyway), trim off any damaged leaves, inspect the compost for signs of mould growth, and to see whether its waterlogged, check the drainage holes in the pot aren’t blocked. If the compost is waterlogged, stand it on something which allows any excess to drip away freely (like a rack, or over the plughole in the sink, for a while). Once its dried out a bit, then keep it well watered, watering when the surface of the potting compost feels just slightly dry to the touch, and watering thoroughly each time, but allow it to drain properly, and tip away any water that collects in an outer container after 30 minutes, and check again a while later to make sure no more has collected.
This link might be useful for general care instructions
Caring For Your Potted Easter Lily
Did you know that Easter lilies are the fourth largest potted plant crop grown in the U.S.? With Easter approaching, no doubt many homes and churches will soon be graced with the fragrant and lovely white trumpet-shaped flowers, symbolic of spring, purity and the Lord’s Resurrection. But how can you enjoy your fragrant flower long after the holiday? We have some helpful tips.
Caring for Your Potted Easter Lilies
To keep your potted Easter lily as its best, it prefers a cool daytime temperature of 60° to 65° F. and nighttime temperatures 5 degrees cooler. To keep the flowers from wilting, avoid placing the potted plant in direct sunlight. Most plants will lean toward the sunlight. To keep the plant growing upright, turn the pot every two days.
Keep the plant moist, but not soggy. Most Easter lilies are sold commercially in pots covered with decorative foil jackets. No water should be left standing at the bottom of this covering or the life of the lily will be ruined. Remove the pot from the foil covering every time the plant is watered. Once the water has soaked into the soil, return the pot to the foil covering.
Also, to help your potted lily thrive, do not place the pot near a direct source of heat. Lilies thrive in a humid climate, more so than a dry one. To create natural humidity, fill a saucer with small pebbles and water and set beneath the potted lily.
How to Transfer Easter Lilies to the Garden
Your Easter lily plant can be introduced into your flower garden for annual enjoyment. Transplant it outdoors once all danger of frost has passed and when the flower stops blooming. Check our Average Frost Date calendar for the dates for your state.
The plant needs to be in well-drained soil, just as it did when it was potted. To provide the needed drainage, add peat moss and perlite to rich organic soil.
Plant the lily bulbs, roots down, 3” inches beneath the surface of the soil and water. If planting more than one bulb, position them at least 12” inches apart. Cut back the stems once the plant appears dead. This will cause new growth to begin and possibly another bloom this summer. Next year, look for a June or July bloom.
Remember: all lilies are poisonous to both cats and dogs. If you have pets, it’s best to skip keeping lilies in the house. If you must, keep them away from where pets can reach them!
Garden Hair Don’t Care Distressed Hat
Oh, snap! Didn’t have time to do your hair? Who cares! You’ve got more important things to do, like grow your own food. Find your inner peas with our 100% cotton twill distressed hat that lets everyone know where your priorities lie. Embroidered right here on the premises. A great a gift for your gardening gal pals-they’re sure to dig it!
What Causes Peace Lily Leaves To Turn Yellow Or Brown
The peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) is an attractive indoor flower known for its ability to thrive in low light. It usually grows between 1-4 feet (.3-1.2 m.) in height and produces pale white flowers that give off a pleasant fragrance and last a long time. Sometimes, however, peace lilies suffer from browning or yellowing leaves. Keep reading to learn about what causes peace lily leaves to turn yellow and how to treat it.
Reasons for Peace Lilies with Brown and Yellow Leaves
Normally, peace lily leaves are long and dark green, emerging directly from the soil and growing up and out. The leaves are strong and oval shaped, narrowing to a point at the tip. They are durable, and often the biggest problem they encounter is that they collect dust and need to be wiped off periodically.
Sometimes, however, the edges of peace lily leaves turn a sickly yellow or brown color. The root of the problem is almost definitely water related. This browning can be caused by too little or too much watering.
There is a good chance, however, that it is due to a buildup of minerals. Since peace lilies are primarily kept as houseplants, they are almost always watered with tap water. If you have hard water in your house, it may be accumulating too much calcium in your plant’s soil.
Conversely, this mineral buildup is just as likely if you use a water softener. Some minerals are good, but too many can build up around your plant’s roots and slowly suffocate it.
Treating a Peace Lily with Brown Tips
Spathiphyllum leaf problems like this can normally be cleared up fairly easy. If you have a peace lily with brown tips, try watering it with bottled drinking water.
First, flush the plant with lots of bottled water until it runs out of the drainage holes. The minerals will bond with the water and wash away with it (if you can see white deposits around the drainage holes, mineral buildup is almost definitely your problem).
After this, water your peace lily like normal, but with bottled water, and your plant ought to recover just fine. You can also snip out unsightly brown/yellow leaves.
Peace lilies – turning brown in center of flower?
Do all ripout first, then while you have everything open, start putting it back. I had a whole house that I’m still living in, damage driven. I ripped floors to the joists then replaced them, and since I needed to tackle wiring, water, windows and ‘liveability’ as well as some retros for more energy efficient…. Identify all structural walls before you touch anything. Identify all circuits; what is on what, and label them clearly. (I put masking tape on wall at each outlet or fixture and used a trouble light laid where I could see it plugged into the outlet I was checking on the panel… and check BOTH outlet sockets. I have run into something wired separately! Then went through and tagged all lights and light switches. Get one of those circuit tester things that light up, and be religious about using it. Identify all water; all shutoffs, what they shut off, if they will shut off; and if it doesn’t have a shutoff, where can you turn it off, even if it means turning off at the meter. If it involves Natural Gas, don’t touch it and call a pro. That one is not negotiable. I had a leak under at my furnace a couple of years ago, and the city’s sniffer unit was literally lost (it may have walked and they had to buy a new one) and the gas company’s was broken at the repair; so we ended up buying our own. I can test for leaks but I let the pros do it. Beware of needing permits and pull them!!!!!!!!!! Some things may not be up to code, but are grandfathered in. Once you touch it, you have to bring it up to code. In older construction you might run into asbestos, especially for pipe insulation. It is manageable, sometimes it is ‘encased in place’ and left, sometimes it has to be abated. Big thing is don’t let it get airborne. If you find black mold you will have to encase in place, abate (remove) and probably replace what wood has been affected. I have done the latter myself, it is a PAIN but possible to do correctly and safely. One you have done ripout and tracing, schedule replacement… I did have gas furnace, main power, and gas water heater moved, and the connections for the gas stove moved. In order: permits. Ripout. Assess anything hidden. Contain/repair/replace any hidden damage first. This can be leaks in ceiling, mold in walls, crumbling structural… Repair outside shell first if needed, you need to stay weathertight. If you are going to replace windows, siding, roof; do those first. If you have to redo insulation, do it after that tempered by having to run wiring or plumbing. Moving to inside shell; if anything needs code compliance, do that next. I did water first, then gas, then electrical. I had a 100 amp feed, code is now 125, and I went to 200, and changed circuits (added some, and replaced wiring and outlets on some existing to bring them from 15 to 20 amp) Then start closing up, floor first so you can walk safely; and I laid all my floors. THEN covered and protected my floors with luan, cardboard, drop cloths… At the time you touch the electrical… I had the pole to mast replaced (gratis, power company) and electrician to do meter to new box and the box was moved. I did most of the grunt work and everything was open to be inspected, saving me a lot of $ on having the electrician in. Take pictures of any open wall or floor, this is your Xray eyes later. Borrow a good high resolution high megapixel camera to take these, you want all the detail you can get. Furnace move was a minimal of gas and electricity and I was able to do my own duct work after for the changes. Plumbing I did almost all of it, worst part was learning how to work with PEX. I had plumber in mostly to help some of the wastewater piping and getting the toilets, tub, and showerpan seals right to the wastewater and my venting correct. No sewer gas and no LEAKING. Then move to drywall and fixing walls, reskinning that and/or ceilings. THEN, sinks, toilets, shower pans and tubs. You may have to juggle on when you have your plumber in, on repairing floor/laying floor; and reskinning the wall, whatever they need to install at the time. As in stand by and be ready. Some things are better if the walls and floors are open, some stuff may be needed to be done after. You might have to have the plumber come twice to be more economical in your overall progression. Kitchen cabinets need to be in to have countertops done, which have to be done before the sink can be finish installed and the faucets and disposer; and dishwasher. If you are having an electrican come in to do work, they may have to come to hook up appliances in the kitchen and/or laundry room. A possible 2 visits by the electrician as well. Laundry room is on the same time schedule as your kitchen…. usually though you can have that all finished up and ready for the W/D to be put in place. If you are DIYing, your walls get paint and the last of the fixtures go on (outlet covers, attaching wall sconces and ceiling mounted pendant lights) in that order. Kitchen and bathrooms then get their tile/backsplashes. I did floor tiling in bathrooms at time of floor reinstall and put most of my plumbing in place at that time; plumber did most of the waste work one day then came back a couple days later to put the connections for toilet and showerpan and tub; and stubbed and capped the three sinks and the washer drain. The kitchen and bathroom finish tiling (aka countertops and backsplash) will be amongst the last work I do. Hope you get an idea on the sequencing; about the only thing I didn’t have to do was completely reside, and reroof. I do have a small hole to deal with where I removed a corner fireplace that was more of a hazard than it was worth… through my roof, I tore it out Sunday. Then I will be shell tight again… Plan at least 20% for overruns. When you buy supplies like drywall, dimensional lumber, plywood, buy 10-15% more. Get the extra pail of thinset if you are playing with tile, it will take more than you can imagine. If you get hit with a structural issue, all bets are off on budget. (that is what happened to me). If you are buying flooring, tile, brickwork, veneer stone, pavers, buy 20% more as you may have one odd lot and have to open everything and mix it in; or work with the one off tint lot as a ‘design feature’. If you have more than one container of paint (can or pail) get a large enough container to open ALL of the batch into and mix it, you may have one offtint (I’ve seen this on house painting) and this will make it all the same. If you are your own general contractor, you are THE person to run if a sub is out of something or needs something. Their time costs you money and you have to keep them going. If something goes sideways you have to fix it or find it. If there’s something that has to be done to keep it on schedule and you elect to do it yourself you HAVE TO DO IT on schedule and on time. (doing your own demo) Renting a skip dumpster, some places need a permit just to park it at the site; and there are many that either want to dump something INTO your dumpster or ‘raid it’ for what’s in it. Be warned. And there are some things you can’t put in a dumpster. Also beware of the load limits and level of debris.