Palm tree plants care

5 Facts About Watering Palm Trees


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Palms are beautiful plants that can spruce up any garden or living space and add a tropical feel no matter the season. Palms are also surprisingly easy to take care of and maintain. There are also palm varieties that grow quickly while some palms can withstand cold winters and extremely hot summers.

One important maintenance and care requirement of palm is watering. You will need to know the exact water requirements of your specific palm however as palms have different needs when it comes to water and moisture.

Deep watering will make your palm retain moisture

Watering your plant by simply drenching the leaves and top soil with your garden hose is the opposite of deep watering. All the layers of the soil will not be able to receive a good amount of water to stay moist, especially during warmer seasons. Deep watering is a process where you’ll slow drip water over the soil.

Ideally, if you have a 45 litre bag palm, you should give it the equal amount of water. When watering, slow drip that amount over a 1 or 2 hour period. This will give the soil enough time to absorb the water and moisture.

Watering your palm everyday may do more harm than good

Unless it’s a newly planted, watering every day is overdoing it. A new palm should be watered everyday on its first week, switch to every other day the following and then settle for 3 times a week on the third.

For more established palms, watering should be done only 2-3 times per week. Some palms would even require watering only if the top 1-2 inches of the soil has dried out.

Adjust watering levels based on the season

Palms do most of their growing during the summer’s warm months so they will need a lot of moisture to keep up with the expelling of energy they require to grow. Water frequently during this period to maintain moisture content just below the surface.

Winter sees little growth and activity for palms so they won’t need as much water. Water also cools the soil so during colder months, they need to stay as warm as possible to survive.

The best time for watering is in the early mornings or late afternoons in summer and earlier in the day during winter.

Avoid accidentally having sunburnt fronds by watering when it’s not the hottest part of the day. Early mornings are ideal because it ensures that the soil will stay moist even as the sun is hottest.

Water in late afternoon refreshers your palm after a hot day. The soil also has more time to absorb the moisture without having the threat of a warm afternoon following.

Overwatering can kill your palm

One of the most common reasons that palms do not survive is because of overwatering. The most common reason is not watering at all. Many people make the mistake of watering their palms too frequently causing several diseases to gain a foothold on an otherwise healthy plant.

Root rot is one of the irreversible diseases that a palm can get from overwatering. There is little that can be done to remedy root rot, especially in its advanced stages and it is very difficult to detect. Be sure to know what your palms specific water requirements are in order to prevent this from happening.


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Mulch is ideal for establishing trees, but do it right

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Weed and turf suppression in the root zone during establishment is essential. This can be accomplished by 1) mulching or 2) maintaining the soil around the root ball weed free with herbicides. We found, as others have, that both resulted in the same tree growth and health! In other words the effect of mulch was the same as the effect of eliminating turf and weeds; mulch provided no more benefit than bare ground. Organic mulches have the advantage of adding much needed organic matter to the soil.

  • Best mulch management
  • Recommended mulch management
  • Minimum mulch area
  • Not recommended
  • See: Mulch precautions

Pull mulch back away from the trunk and root ball. The point where the top-most root meets the trunk should be within the top 2 inches of the surface. It can be visible at the surface. Notice mulch is spread in a thinner layer on root ball than around root ball. Periodic root collar excavations should check for and remove large roots that grow up and into mulch over the root ball.

Where to place it: Apply a 3-inch thick (after settling) layer of mulch to at least an eight-foot diameter circle around the plant, or maintain the area weed free with herbicides, to help discourage weeds and turf. This area should be maintained during the establishment period at least two feet in diameter (preferably three feet) for each inch of tree trunk diameter (to encourage rapid establishment, minimum diameter should be eight feet for trees with a trunk diameter less than 3 inches). Apply a thinner layer of mulch over the root ball, for aesthetic reasons if you wish, but keep it at least 12 inches from the trunk (24-inch diameter mulch-free area) so the trunk bark can dry. This also allows rainwater, irrigation, and air to easily enter the root ball since it does not have to drain through the mulch. Mulch resting on the trunk and applying too thick a layer can kill the plant by holding water meant for the roots, oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to trunk, keeping the root ball too wet, encouraging formation of stem girdling roots, and repelling water if the mulch dries out.

Mulch is often applied on the root ball with the intention of conserving moisture in the root ball. There is actually no data that supports this concept. Our recent data (2008) shows that mulch on the root ball has little impact on water loss from the tree since a much larger portion of water lost from the root ball is transpired (about 99%), not evaporated (less than 1%) from the root ball surface (Gilman et al., paper in preparation). Only a small fraction of water leaves the root ball by evaporation (1%) from the surface of the root ball during the growing season. Therefore, downsides of applying mulch on the root ball appear to outweigh potential moisture conserving properties.

Potential benefits: Applying mulch allows roots on newly planted trees to become established quickly according to Watson and Green (1989). However, later work showed that it was lack of turf, not presence of mulch that provided benefits to the newly planted tree (Gilman and Grabosky, 2004). Once the tree is well established in the landscape, it is best for the tree to maintain mulch under the dripline of the tree – no turf under the tree. Some managers reduce the size of the mulched area, but soil can become compacted under the canopy from mowing equipment causing serious damage to the tree in some circumstances. Arborists, botanical gardens, and landscape managers are beginning to realize that trees are much easier to maintain in good health when the soil beneath the canopy is mulched. This probably results from a healthy microbial, earthworm, and insect population and good air penetration into the soil. Within about a year after applying mulch under the canopy, you can feel the soil becoming softer. Roots grow rapidly in soft soil, slowly in compacted soil.

Type: Composted yard waste makes great mulch and may suppress Phytophthora and Armillaria infection in some circumstances. There are a growing number of examples around the US of applying fresh wood chips or bark under the canopy of landscape trees. Landscape managers report that these trees remain healthy and in some circumstances health is improved. Applications of fertilizer have been reduced or in certain cases eliminated in some of these landscapes. Fresh (not composted) wood chips could, in some circumstances, enhance pathogens such as Fusarium and shot gun fungi. If you suspect that this could be a problem in your region, apply it to areas that already have some mulch on the soil. Since non-organic mulches, such as rubber or lava rock, add nothing to the soil they may be less desirable than organic mulches. However, synthetic mulches may have applications where organic mulches might blow or wash away.

Mulch from coniferous plants is best for conifers; hardwood mulch is probably best for hardwood plantings. Conifer mulches could reduce the soil pH in some cases to levels undesirable for hardwoods. Hardwood mulches could increase the soil pH to levels undesirable for conifers. Organic mulches of many types can support growth of artillery fungus (Sphearobolus stellatus) which can discolor nearby buildings, cars and walks.

Mulches with particle size distribution resulting in tight packing of mulch particles should be avoided. The include mulches with a large difference in particle sizes. Some of these can repel rain and irrigation water beginning several months after planting.

Top 5 Palm Tree Care Mistakes That Lead To Pests and Diseases

Inevitably you will have one of theses palm tree care mistakes that will lead to pest and disease or even lead to the death of your palm tree, the sad part about this is that all theses costly mistakes can be corrected and prevented at no cost.

Palm Tree Care Mistakes Are More Prevalent Than You Think!

That’s right all this is free, it doesn’t cost anything, as a matter of fact, it saves you money now and in the future by having to replace an expensive landscape palm, and yet so many homeowners and landscapers are not doing it. Why?

Because they simply don’t know or because most landscapers don’t know and they see them do it and think if they are doing it, it must be right. These practices are prevalent throughout Miami Dade from homes, hoa, to commercial shopping centers.

Improper palm Mulching

Mulch is a great way to help palms retain moisture and add color to the landscape, but too much of a good is well, bad. Improperly placed mulch can lead to trunk rot.

It can also cause improper root and palm development.

Tips:

Do not allow mulch touch trunk

Do not allow mulch to build up more than 3 to 4 inches

Replace mulch twice a year removing old mulch and placing new mulch

Improper palm pruning

Palm trimming is required for some species that are not self-cleaning palms such as Christmas palms where the palm fronds fall off. Palms like Coconut or Date palms require trimming or the removing of dead fronds to be aesthetically pleasing.

The most common mistake made is over pruning of palm trees (Hurricane trimming palm trees) or pencil topping, this is detrimental to palms, this is also known making a palm tree hurricane ready, palm trees by nature are hurricane ready.

Over trimming cause the trunk to thin out over time making the palm weak in a hurricane or in hi winds causing it to break. Palms are not like trees palms take nutrients from the lower fronds when those nutrients are not available in the soil and translocate it to new growing fronds, this is why the lower fronds die. By removing lower fronds that are still alive you force the Palm to take it from the next lower healthy green frond creating a cycle and eventually the Palm will not have much to take from.

By allowing the lower fronds to remain until they are dead you allow the Palm to take up those nutrients.

Not sterilizing pruning equipment between palms can transmit a disease to palms.

Improper palm watering

Most palms I south Florida once established do not need frequent irrigation, avoid sprinkler heads to directly spray palm or trunks as this can course trunk rot. Nozzles next to palms or frequent irrigation to palms cause root rot that unless corrected and treated with a fungicide can lead to the death of the palm.

Improper palm fertilizing

Since most of the palms planted in Florida landscapes are not native but exotic meaning they are from another part of the world palms may not have any of the nutrients they need in our calcareous soils which tend to bind all the available nutrients to that sandy high ph soil because of the high calcium carbonate content in our limestone sediment layer.

Excessive use of nitrogen commonly found in lawn fertilizers such as 16-4-11 or 24-0-11 should not be used on palm trees as this can cause a nitrogen poisoning in palms neither should you use landscape fertilizers such as 6-6-6 which do not have complete or too low in micro nutrients like manganese, magnesium, iron, boron.

Improper plant placement around palms


Allowing lawn to grow right up to palm causing damage by line trimmer to roots.

Placing plants around the palm tree especially close to the root zone and trunk presents several problems, palm trees require Fertilizing at high rates to as much as 5 pounds of fertilizer per palm every 3 to 4 months which can cause damage to plants around it and or prevent palms from being fertilized properly.

Shrubs that grow up and around trunk can pose a lethal problem for palms by landscaper trimming equipment wounding the trunck causing damage to the bark which never will heal allowing or introducing a disease pathogen into the palm through the open wound.

Placing palm tree between two concrete paved or hard surfaces and placing rock around it increases temperatures killing or damaging new roots, the white rock makes it impossible to fertilizer palm without staining the rock.

Blog Headline: 5 Palm Tree Care Mistakes That Lead To Pests and Diseases Blog Description: Inevitably you will have one of theses palm tree care mistakes that will lead to pest and disease or even lead to the death of your palm tree. Author Name: Franklin Hernandez Image URL: https://naturepest.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Hurricane-cut-pencil-topped-palm-tree.jpg Publisher Name: Nature Pest

Top 5 Secrets for Keeping Your Florida Palm Trees Healthy

One of the more iconic plants we enjoy in Florida is the stately florida palm tree. As most residents quickly come to appreciate, there are many varieties of palms in addition to our State Tree, the cabbage palm. Those other familiar palms you will see around the state include:

  • Queen
  • Washington
  • Date

All of these palms share the same need for proper attention to keep them healthy and growing. The lack of that care is why you will see so many distressed palms in some neighborhoods.

Providing the TLC Palms Require

Although palms are easy maintenance in their native environments, they are one of the more susceptible plants you may select for your landscaping project. If you don’t have a professional landscaping service handling your plants and grounds, you should be aware of some of the basic steps you can take to ensure you keep your palms alive and healthy. Below are five of those palm-care secrets.

1. Prune your palms carefully.

A general mistake many make is to prune their palms too often and/or incorrectly. Palms get many of their nutrients through their leaves, and removing them can starve a plant or leave it vulnerable to disease. Contrary to how you often remove damaged leaves from many plants, leave them on the palm tree until they are totally dead.

2. Plant new palms correctly.

The root system on palms is very sensitive, and you should never put fertilizer down before placing your palm tree in a new location. Otherwise, the roots will burn, and the plant will die. Rather, let the newly planted palm settle in for at least three to four weeks before fertilizing the area around it.

3. Let new plant acclimatize.

Especially if you are getting young palms from a greenhouse or heavily shaded area, give them special care for the first several months. Keep them screened to avoid sunburn if they are in intense light for extended periods and watch for yellowing or browning of leaves.

4. Fertilize your palm correctly.

Providing needed nutrients with the right fertilizer is crucial to your palm’s long-term health and ability to resist disease. Avoid burning your plant by keeping fertilizer applications at least two feet from the trunk. Plan on applying the appropriate fertilizer at least five or six times a year during the warmer months.

5. Water appropriately.

As with fertilizer, your palm trees needs water, but in the right quantities at the right time. Be sure to prepare the soil before putting in a palm by adding sand to about a 50 percent mix. While palms prefer continually moist soil, too much water will damage roots and encourage disease. This makes it important to have good drainage and to water just frequently enough to keep the area from drying out.

Palms make every yard more attractive and appealing, and you can protect your investment in this distinctive plant with just the right amount of TLC. Prefer to have professional assistance? Contact R&R Sprinkler and Landscaping company to find out how we can keep your Southwest Florida yard looking great.

R & R Sprinkler & Landscape
931 SE 11th Avenue
Cape Coral, FL 33990
(239) 772-2607

Here in Florida we enjoy a nice warm tropical climate with ample amounts of rain and humidity. As a result, our climate is perfectly suited for tropical trees, with the palm tree being one of the most sought after. With only a dozen palms being native to Florida, many of our palm trees are imported from other parts of the world. Chances are if you are living in the Tampa Bay area you have a palm or two in your yard. Palms are such a diverse family of plants it can be very difficult to identify each one. So, we have decided to put together a short guide to help you identify some of the most common palm trees that can be spotted throughout the Greater Tampa Bay area.

Palm Tree Fronds

When trying to identify your palm tree one place to start is by discerning what type of palm fronds the tree has. There are two main types of fronds, pinnate and palmate. A select few palm trees have fronds that are called costapalmate, which is a mix of the two. Here are the characteristics of each type of frond.
Palmate – Palmate fronds are fan shaped with extended leaf parts. The leaf parts are divided into segments and emerge from a single point, resembling a fan.
Pinnate – Pinnate fronds are feather shaped. The fronds are divided into leaflets, which are fixed to a single leaf axis like a feather.
Costapalmate – having a defined midrib like a pinnate, but the leaflets grow radially like a palmate.

Palm Trees Native to Florida

By Skuzbucket , from Wikimedia Commons

Cabbage Palm

The Cabbage Palm, also known as the Sabal Palmetto, is native to Florida and it is the state’s official tree. This palm tree can grow up to 65-feet tall, with a tan to brown trunk, and when looking at the trunk you will notice it has the leftovers of old leaf bases also known as “boots” in a crisscross pattern going up the tree trunk. The closer you get to the top the trunk will smooth out and the color will turn light brown or gray with age. The frond of a Cabbage palm Is called costapalmate, which means it has a defined midrib like a pinnate frond that extends into the blade and goes far enough to make it curve, the leaves are fan shaped like palmate fronds. They are between 3 to 4-feet wide with a shiny green on top and gray-green coloring underneath. The leaves can split into segments that are ½ their length; all of this is attached to a petiole “shaft” that is 3 to 6-feet long. This palm also produces a small round fruit that is black in color. The Cabbage Palm produces a small and fragrant flower with a creamy white color, and they emerge in clusters on a 3 to 8-foot long branch.

Frond type: Costapalmate with a downward curve. The fronds are shiny green on top and a gray-green underneath.
Flower: Small white flower with elongated petals that grow in clusters off a long branch.
Fruit: Is small, round and black in color.

By Homer Edward Price (Paurotis-PalmsUploaded by Amada44) , via Wikimedia Commons

Paurotis Palm

This palm is native to Florida and is known as the Everglades palm. The trunk of this palm is rather skinny and can grow up to 16 to 23-feet. It’s coloring on the trunk is reddish brown and is wrapped with fibrous matting. The leaves of this palm are 2 to 3-feet wide and palmate, meaning they resemble a fan and the divided segments grow out from a single point, and they are attached to long petiole that has sharp yellowish orange teeth. The coloring of these leaves is bright green on top with silver underneath. Paurotis palms also produce flowers and fruit. The flower is very small and can be light green to almost white in color and grows in a cluster on a long stalk. The fruit it has is as small as a pea and has a red orange color but will turn black when ripe.

Frond type: Palmate and has sharp yellowish teeth extending from the base of petiole.

Flower: Are very small can be white or even light green, they grow in clusters on a long stalk.

Fruit: It is pea sized with a red-orange color and will turn black when ripe.

The Imported Palm Trees of Florida

Mexican Fan Palm

The Mexican Fan Palm, otherwise known as the Washingtonia robusta, is an imported species to Florida. The trunk of this palm is skinny compared to most other palms and is reddish brown in color. The Mexican fan palm is extremely tall, growing between 70 to 100-feet high. As this palm ages, the trunk will turn gray or almost white and will maintain the bases of old leaves around the crown for years. Its flowers are white and small growing in clusters out of an elongated yellow stem. Mexican fan does produce fruit that is edible even though the flesh on it is rather thin. The fruit it produces is small and round it’s either blue-black or mostly black in color. The palmate leaves can be up to 4-feet wide and they are divided into segments. Its bright green leaves are attached to a long petiole which has long reddish spines.

Frond type: Palmate it also contains long reddish spines on the petiole.

Flower: Is small white and growing in clusters on long yellow stem.

Fruit:Though small it is edible with a thin layer of skin, its blue-black in color and grows on a hanging stalk.

By Zureks , from Wikimedia Commons

Chinese Fan palm

Can also be found under its binomial name as (genus) livistona (species) chinensis. This palm tree is easy to grow, making it a common choice in landscapes and gardens, and can grow up to 50-feet high. Like other palms this one also keeps old leaf bases on the trunk making a ring of scars. Its leaves are costapalmate, meaning fan shaped; but they have a midrib that the leaves grow out from and can grow to 6’ wide. When the Chinese fan palm is young it does have sharp teeth near the bases of the petiole to protect against predators, but it loses these as the palm ages. The leaves are a glossy olive-green and have tons of segments shaped like blades that give it a fringed appearance. The flowers it grows emerge in clusters on their own stalk and are small with a yellowish white color. The blossoms turn into fruit that is oblong with a blue-green color.

Frond type: It is Costapalmate, only when its young does the petiole have sharp teeth on it.

Flower: Has tiny buds that grow in clusters on its own stalk, can be light yellow or white.

Fruit: Flower blossoms turn into this fruit it is oblong and has a blue-green color.

By Lettucecup , from Wikimedia Commons

Queen Palm

The Queen Palms binomial name is syagrus romanzoffiana, this palm is considered an ornamental garden tree. With the average height reaching around 49-feet the trunk is smooth around the bottom, but it also has the previous year’s leaf bases around the top of it. The Queen Palm trees leaves are pinnate resembling a feather and they can grow up to 15-feet in length and often arch downward, giving the tree a “drooping” appearance. Each leaf has multiple leaflets that are shaped like a blade and are a dark shiny green. The small creamy white flowers emerge in clusters from the stalks. Its fruit is a hard nut that does have a thin layer of skin and is orange in color, it is edible and sticky when ripe.

Frond type: Pinnate can grow to 15’ and has a drooping appearance.

Flower: It is cluster growing from a stalk, is a creamy white color.

Fruit: Is hard like a nut with a thin layer of skin, orange and is sticky when ripe.

By Ebyabe , from Wikimedia Commons

Pindo Palm

Otherwise known as Butia capitate is a hearty palm. The Pindo Palm has an extremely thick trunk and can reach heights of 15 to 25-feet, which for a palm tree is not very tall. The trunk is a gray color and when young has noticeable old leaf bases, the older ones tend to just have scars of incomplete circles. The leaves themselves arch downward growing up to 7-feet and are feather shaped. Its leaflets are about 3-feet long with a silvery green to yellowish-green color and they grow at a 45-degree angle. The Pindo Palm produces small flowers that are orange-red or even yellow in color. The palm’s flowers grow in clusters from a stalk. After it flowers bright orange fruits grow in large clusters hanging down off the tree. This fruit is round and edible, it’s about the same size as a cherry.

Frond type: Pinnate and it grows at 45-degree angle.

Flower: Small red-orange or yellow, grows out of stalk in a cluster.

Fruit-: Bright orange growing in a large cluster hanging from the palm, size of a cherry, it is round and edible.

There are many similarities, and yet subtle differences, between these diverse palm tree species. However, with close observation you will find that each tree has its own set of distinguishing features that can help to identify it. The Date Palm on the other hand, is a slightly different story. The Date Palm belongs to the Phoenix Palm Tree family and is commonly found throughout Florida and the Greater Tampa Bay area. However, this family of palm trees share so many similarities that they can be quite difficult to identify. To learn more about recognizing the different types of Date Palms or Phoenix Palm trees check out this article: Date Palm or Phoenix Palm Trees.

Why Palm Trees?

Before we start writing full-blown love songs about palm trees, let’s first dive into why palm trees are a great choice for your Florida landscape.

For starters, they sort of just go with that Florida image, right? White sands, blue skies, and of course, palm trees swaying in the wind – you really just can’t go wrong with that visual. Aesthetically, they’re everything a tropical Florida landscape could want. Palm trees look great in botanical gardens, shopping centers, swimming pools, and along the coast – they’re pretty much everywhere, and they look great.

Aside from just aesthetics, though, palm trees make a great choice for Florida climate. As you obviously know, Florida has a hot, humid, tropical client – and it takes a special kind of tree to thrive here.

The Top Five Palm Trees for Your Florida Landscape

There are dozens – no, hundreds of Palms that could fit best with your Florida landscape, but we’ve narrowed it down to just a handful of some of our favorites. Whether you’re looking for the ultimate poolside Palm, or simply want one that can survive in full sun, we’ve got a few of the best options available for you. Keep in mind that when it comes to Palms, your options are not limited. There are so many different palms out there it’ll make your head spin! Don’t be afraid to give us a call and chat with us about all of your options!

Coconut Palm Tree – the Full Sun Palm

This is one of the most well-known palms on the planet. It’s a popular choice in Florida and it’s probably the first palm your mind conjures up when you consider Florida flora and fauna. The Coconut Palm Tree can grow up to 98 feet tall, has wispy leaves, and grows coconuts (of course). Without question, the Coconut Palm Tree is the quintessential Florida palm. It doesn’t require shade, it’s practically drought-proof, and is incredibly salt tolerant. These trees will thrive in the hot Florida sun and are great additions to coastal homes that have salty, humid air.

Red Sealing Wax Palm – Your Shady Palm

Also known as the Lipstick Palm (because of its red crown shaft), this tree is native to Thailand, so it’s used to tropical conditions. This palm is special in appearance, but also special in that it will thrive in shady conditions. Lots of palm trees require full sun in order to grow their best, but this red palm will thrive when placed in shady spots. If you have an unusually shady yard but are looking to insert a little Florida into your landscape, this might be the perfect palm for you! It adds a pop of color, doesn’t require much maintenance, and can grow up to 52 feet tall if properly cared for.

Buccaneer Palm – The Poolside Pick

In Florida, a poolside palm is a must-have, but with all the factors that you must consider for a palm that’s in your pool landscape, it can be hard to narrow down your options. The Buccaneer Palm is one of the best bets for a poolside palm tree because they’re great all-around palms that don’t require too much extra maintenance. This palm is a slow grower, will thrive in full sun (which is often necessary for poolside plants), is (mostly) drought-tolerant, and can provide you with shade if the palm leaves grow full enough. This palm will typically grow to about 15 feet, but needs patience (as we said before, it’s a slow grower). If you’re looking to put up a palm by the pool that doesn’t require much extra attention, this durable and versatile palm is one of the best options to consider.

European Fan Palm – The Tiny Palm Choice

If you’re looking for something small in stature that leaves a big impression, then the European Fan Palm could be just the tree you’re searching for. It’s tiny, somewhat furry, little tree with pomade-style leaves that fan out. They often range from green to silver, making the tree appear to change hues as the leaves grow out. It’s a versatile choice, brings lots of color and texture to your lawn, and won’t grow more than 15 feet at most. They’re low maintenance, bring the tropical look to your lawn you’re craving, and are notably one of the easiest plans to own.

The Lady Palm Tree – The Versatile Palm

Though it’s not scientifically known as the Aristocratic Lady Palm Tree (its actual name in Latin is Rhapis Excelsa), it certainly makes sense to call it that. For one, this is a lovely looking, dignified Palm, but it’s also an incredibly hardy, durable tree, too. This palm will live and thrive in both low-light and bright filtered light, making it ideal for both outdoor and indoor living! Lady palms are incredibly versatile when it comes to soil, climate, and environment. It’s also incredibly easy to care for. It’s a full, lush, palm that grows up to 6 feet, shoots out stems and canes of about 1 inch wide, and can flower with light green, yellow, and pink blooms. These are popular palm shrubs, but they can grow into larger, fuller palm trees, too. They’re a great pick for Florida because they can handle the one-off surprise freeze and will continue thrive in degrees as low as 15 F.

If, despite our best efforts, Palms still aren’t your favorite, check out some other Florida-friendly plants. Our experts can recommend an incredible number of plants that will work flawlessly for your landscaping needs. In fact, we can get nearly any plant you could possibly desire! So, reach out to us today for custom-tailored advice and a free and easy quote. Just give our office a call at (727)-201-3947. If you want some other palm-inspired inspo or want to get the insider tips and tricks about Florida landscaping in general, check out our regularly-updated blog here!

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