Palm tree in winter

2012 – Volume #36, Issue #5, Page #24
“Previous Next” He Made Palm Trees For A Backyard Pool

“I thought other FARM SHOW readers might get a kick out of the palm trees I made for around my backyard swimming pool,” says Doug Schiller, Belvidere, Ill.
Schiller says his wife said one day that it would be nice if there were palm trees around the 20 by 35-ft. pool. However, he lives in Illinois so real palm trees were out of the question.
“I looked online for artificial palm trees but found they’re very expensive, so I decided to make my own using plastic drain tile, 55-gal. barrels, and real coconuts,” says Schiller.
The homemade trees look realistic, with trunks that bend and taper toward the top. Real coconuts hang from them, and one tree even has a plastic monkey climbing up the trunk.
“I’ve made 3 palm trees, one 7 ft. tall and the others about 12 ft. tall. It took a lot of trial and error to build them, but it was worth the effort,” says Schiller.
He used 55-gal. plastic oil barrels to make the leaves. He makes a pattern and then uses a jigsaw to cut around the barrel, creating strips 25 to 36 in. long and 8 to 10 in. wide depending on the size of the barrel. “I usually get 4 leaves from each barrel,” says Schiller.
The curvature of the barrel is tighter than the curvature of the leaf, so he bends a 3/16-in. thick by 3/4-in. wide metal strap into the curvature he wants and then pop rivets it onto the bottom side of the leaf. “The metal straps give the leaves the right arch and also add strength,” says Schiller.
To make bumps along the leaf’s edges, he puts one end of the metal strap into a vise and then uses a blow torch to heat the plastic so he can bend it. “Once the plastic cools it gets really hard. It’s amazing how much stronger the bends make the leaves,” says Schiller.
He uses 8 to 10-in. dia. drain tile for the tree trunks. To taper the trunk he cuts pie-shaped pieces out of the sides and then uses wire or zip strips to narrow up the diameter.
Lengths of aluminum or steel pipe run through the center of the drain tile to support the trunk. To bend the trunk, he lays the tree on a bench and puts a block of wood under each end. Then he runs ratchet straps around the center of the trunk and pulls the drain tile to one side until it bends. “One of the trees has a really big bend in it. On that tree I actually bent the pipe before I put it into the culvert,” says Schiller.
Once the drain tile is bent he breaks up Styrofoam packaging material into small pieces, then shoves the pieces inside the drain tile until it’s packed full. Then every foot or so, he drills holes into the drain tile’s grooves and squirts Great Stuff aerosol spray foam through them. “The foam expands and packs the drain tile full, which forces the bend to stay in place,” says Schiller.
The next step is to wrap lengths of rope around all the grooves, which smoothes out the trunk and also adds strength.
The tree trunks are anchored in cement about 3 ft. deep in the ground. Both the monkey and the real coconuts are roped to the tree.

All components are brushed with a fiberglass resin and then covered with fiberglass mesh. More fiberglass resin is applied on top of the mesh, and finally everything is primed and painted.
He took photos as he went along and sells plans. “There are a lot of shortcuts on what you can do,” he says.
Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Doug
Schiller, 345 Biester Dr., Belvidere, Ill. (ph 815 979-4591; [email protected]).

Click here to read entire issue

To read the rest of this story, download this issue below or click here to register with your account number.

Palms can be a beautiful addition to your outdoor spaces! There are few things that bring that touch of the tropics to the back yard like seeing palm fronds moving in the wind. The information below is all about helping you select the right palms for success in our area and maintain them properly.

Selecting a Palm
Palms vary drastically in winter hardiness, size, and form. Listed below are palms we carry for North Texas. Most of them will tolerate our normal winter with only a bit of care, and a few need regular protection from ice or cold. To be clear: we carry the most cold tolerant palms available. If a palm you are interested in is not listed – it’s not winter hardy here! It’s important to emphasize this because a lot of South Texas palms can be found in our market. Many of those palms can grow two to three times faster than our most recommended varieties, so it’s easy to get a big palm for a relatively low cost. They’re not a good deal, however, as an average winter for our region can stunt or kill these plants without heroic protection from winter ice storms.

We have rated the winter hardiness of the palms we sell below. Palms rated “A” are reasonable to plant outside as they will tolerate our average winter with varying amounts of protection from severe weather. Those with “D” ratings are best grow in containers so they can be moved inside for the winter, otherwise, you should be ready to do a lot of preparation to protect the plant. This includes some palms which have done just fine for a decade here unprotected, but didn’t survive the severe winters we have experienced.

Planting a Palm
Palms do not need excessive soil preparation. Just blend our Covington’s Soil Builder (compost, expanded shale, and greensand) to the existing soil as you back fill around the root ball, then top the whole planting off with at least a 2″ layer of mulch to cover. This is a pretty standard way to plant any common tree or shrub in our area. Don’t add soil to cover any exposed roots at the base of a palm–this can injure the plant. If you’re planting a palm in a container, be sure the container is good sized – 18″ or larger across the top– the larger the better.

Maintaining a Palm
Palms need moderate amounts of soil moisture to remain healthy. Keep a 2″ or deeper layer of mulch around your palm year round to moderate the impact of extreme heat or cold. Palms require large amounts of specific micronutrients to stay nice and green, without showing yellow or blackened tips on the ends of the fronds. Feed palms generously three times a year, in mid-March, May, and September, with our Carl Pool’s Palm Food. It is the best balanced palm food we’ve found for the specific nutritional needs of palms in our area.

Protecting Palms from Cold
Even the most cold-hardy palms prefer to not be covered in ice (snow’s much less serious). We sell a material called frost cloth with which you can protect palms from severe ice storms. Tie the palm leaves sharply upright, and wrap upward from the base of the plant over the top of the palm leaves. Take the excess over the top of the palm and fold it over, then secure the wrapping in place with rope or twine. Frost cloth is superior to burlap or sheets for protecting palms from heavy ice, as it doesn’t absorb water very well. Burlap or similar materials become soaked with water and then freeze right against your leaves, so they’re not desirable for cold protection. Palms do not need covering all winter! Let the leaves breathe and get some light after the severe cold weather event is over. For the coldest ice storms, particularly for more tender palms, Christmas lights – the small bulb varieties, not the big peanut bulbs which can scorch and burn, can be strung around the covered palm and turned on to provide additional warmth. Older, better established palms tolerate severe cold better than newly planted palms, so watch new plantings more closely.

Palms can lose some or all of their leaves to winter’s cold without any serious ill effect. The most important part of your palm to protect is the heart area right where the palm leaves enter the center of the trunk. Direct cold damage is not the most serious threat…a condition called crown rot is the thing you most want to prevent. Crown rot happens when the heart of the palm takes enough cold damage that it’s frostbitten and tissue inside the trunk begins to decay. The frost damage itself is not life-threatening, however, as tissue decays, the decay products kill healthy tissue below, which then rots, and the cycle continues. This decay is vastly accelerated once the temperatures warm up in the late springtime so cold damage can literally kill a palm in July. (A palm that has leaves, but simply puts out no new growth in the spring is a warning signal!)

To prevent this decay, after any seriously cold spell where your palm loses leaves or you’re worried about the temperature for the variety of palm you’ve planted, drench the heart of the palm with our ferti-lome Systemic Fungicide after the cold snap is over. This fungicide will prevent interior decay as the plant deals with replacing the frost-killed tissue. It’s not always necessary, but it’s cheap insurance for a great big palm after an ice storm.

Palm Information by Variety

Windmill Palm, Trachycarpus fortunei – “A” hardiness – One of the toughest palms for this area. They reach a height of 10-20′ and width of 8-10’ in the landscape and are hardy to 10-20° F. It is rarely necessary to cover or wrap this palm during the winter, only necessary for the worst weather events. Most winters, well established plants are fine with no covering at all! This palm is noted for the hairy, fibrous trunk that adds additional winter insulation to the plant. Windmill palms are upright growers that show a nice clear trunk.

Mediterranean Fan Palm, Chamaerops humilis – “A” hardiness – A shorter palm, topping out at 10′ tall and 6-8′ wide, ideal for areas where too great a height is undesirable. They tend to be multi-trunked and are rarely identical! In fact it is not unusual for every single one in a nursery row to look a little different than its neighbor. Suited for both container and in-ground growing and one of the best cold-tolerant palms (hardy to 10-20° F).

Pindo Palm, Butia capitata – “A” hardiness – Pindo palm grows 10-20′ tall and wide, with beautiful arching leaves that can reach as much as 6-10′ long! The leaves curve gracefully downward toward the trunk and have an attractive bluish-green to grey-green color. Pindo palms have good cold tolerance (hardy to 10-20° F), an attractive trunk, and in mild climates they produce an edible fruit that’s suitable for making preserves or jelly. This palm holds up excellently in severe heat areas.

Texas Sabal Palm, Sabal texana – “A” hardiness – Sabal palms are slow-growers that reach 20-30’ tall and 15-20’ wide. They have an extremely upright growth pattern, and are the only palm native to Texas! They adapt readily to a variety of soils and conditions, and will tolerate our winters with some protection from hard ices (hardy to 10-20° F). The trunk has a striking pattern of “boots” formed where the lower leaves were once part of the trunk, then cut as the leaves aged.

Dwarf Sabal Palm, Sabal minor – “A” hardiness – A very slow growing, durable palm that has bluish-green, fan-shaped leaves. Reaches 4-5’ tall and wide and stays low to the ground. The stems arise from a crown of underground roots. Grows well in moist soil, hardy to 10-20° F, and is drought tolerant when established.

Mexican Fan Palm, Washingtonia robusta – “D” hardiness – Tall-growing upright palm that will adapt to a variety of soils and is very drought tolerant. It will grow at roughly twice the speed of a Windmill palm! It’s a handsome palm, with the stems of the leaves having a decided hooked pattern. This palm has a “D” in cold hardiness because they may be heavily damaged or even died during severe winter weather. It’s not our most recommended palm, but it’s pretty and grows fast. *We do not warranty this plant.

Sago Palm, Cycas revoluta – “D-” hardiness – These are not true palms at all, but cycads! It makes a great container plant (so it can be brought inside the garage for truly severe weather), or can be planted in the ground with diligent care taken to cover it for hard cold weather events. Hard, dark green leafy fronds come out of the top of a short-bodied orangish trunk. We strongly recommend this more as a container plant. *We do not warranty this plant.

What to Do About Palm Freeze Damage (and How to Protect Palms)

We’re used to seeing palm trees flowing carefree in a breeze with a golden sun and blue skies as their backdrop.
But in some areas, palms don’t get to soak up paradise all year round. Take Florida, for example. Allison, a Davey blog reader from the northern half of the state, reached out for help with her freeze damaged palm trees. She said, “we had a hard freeze in Florida and our medium palms took quite a hit. I don’t know if I should prune them down to nothing or let them be. I also don’t know if they are still alive.”
Harsh winter weather can be tough on these tropical trees. Read on to learn how to help them bounce back.

How to Help Freeze Damaged Palms and Protect Palms from Freezes

With careful prep before and lots of patience after, some palm trees can survive a wicked-cold winter.

A cold freeze looks like it damaged my palm (areca, sabal, pindo, pygmy date, and coconut). What happened?

A visit from Jack Frost will have palm trees switch from leafy green to rusty brown before your eyes. Why is that?
Well, unlike hardwood trees that sprout new growth from multiple spots, palm trees only grow new leaves from one spot—the heart. The palm heart sits right in the center of the tree’s canopy, and if it’s hit with harsh cold, the damage trickles down to all the future palm leaves growing from it.
Plus, if a palm is planted outside of its growing zone, it’ll be extra vulnerable to cold damage. For example, pygmy date palms are meant for planting zones 9-11, areas that get almost no frost. That means they wouldn’t do so well in Allison’s neck of the woods in Northern Florida. The same goes for areca and coconut palms—frost can be fatal for these quintessential tropical trees.
But even if palm trees are tolerant to the cold (like pindo and sabal palms, which can bear 15- and 20-degree temperatures) a hard freeze can still spell trouble.
“No matter the type, always err on the side of caution with your palm trees,” says Jess Running from Davey’s Menlo Park, California office. “It’s really important to protect all palm trees whenever harsh winter weather is expected.”

How can I tell if my cold damaged palm trees are alive?

By far, the best way to determine the health of your tree is to get an arborist’s opinion. In the meantime, here are a few things to consider:

  • Your tree needs time. “It’s really hard to predict the future of a freeze damaged palm. Most palms won’t show any new growth for months after the damage was done, so patience is the best gift you can give your recovering tree,” Running says.
  • Green is good. Even if leaves are mostly brown, any sign of green could mean the tree has a chance at survival.
  • Let nature take its course. Let your palm tree handle the healing process on its own. You may remove fronds that are completely brown to improve aesthetics.

How can I protect palm trees from freezes in the future?

Palms have a much better chance at surviving a winter freeze with these preventative steps:

  • Always plant palms that are suitable for your area. Find out what your planting zone is here!
  • Carefully cover short palm trees with a blanket or sheet before an expected freeze. For taller palms, contact an arborist to wrap the fronds together to protect the heart. Remove the sheet and unwrap the fronds after the threat of freeze.
  • Before a freeze, water your palm tree deeply, and seal in the moisture with mulch.
  • Keep your tree on a regular fertilization schedule. The nutrients in fertilizer may help support cold tolerance by improving tree vigor.

Winterizing A Palm Tree: Tips On Wrapping Palm Trees In Winter

Palm trees don’t just make an appearance in Hollywood. Different varieties can be grown around the United States, even places where snow is a regular winter feature. Snow and freezing temps aren’t exactly a palm trees milieu, so what kind of winter protection must you provide for palms?

Winter Palm Tree Care

Frost and freezing temperatures damage the tissue of plants, in general weakening them and leaving them susceptible to diseases. Cold snaps, in particular, are of concern. Winterizing your palm tree to protect it from cold damage may be of paramount importance, especially depending on your region.

Winter palm tree care usually requires wrapping palm trees in winter. The question is how to wrap the palm tree for winter and with what?

How to Wrap Palm Trees for Winter

If your palm is small, you can cover it with a box or blanket and weigh it down. Don’t leave the cover on for longer than 5 days. You can also cover a small palm with straw or similar mulch. Remove the mulch immediately when the weather warms up.

As to winterizing a palm tree by wrapping it, there are 4 basic methods: stringing Christmas lights, the chicken wire method, utilizing heat tape and using water pipe insulation.

Christmas lights – Christmas lights to wrap the palm are the easiest method. Do not use the newer LED lights, but stick with good old-fashioned bulbs. Tie the leaves together into a bundle and wrap them with a string of lights. The heat emitted by the lights should be enough to protect the tree, and it looks festive!

Chicken wire – When using the chicken wire method, lace 4 stakes, 3 feet apart, in a square with the palm at the center. Wrap 1-2” chicken wire or fencing wire around the posts to create a basket of about 3-4 feet high. Fill the “basket” with leaves. Remove the leaves in early March.
Pipe insulation – When using water pipe insulation, cover the soil around the trees with mulch to protect the roots. Wrap the first 3-6 leaves and the trunk with water pipe insulation. Fold the top over to keep water from getting inside the insulation. Again, in March, remove the wrapping and mulch.

Heat tape – Lastly, you can winterize the palm tree by using heat tape. Pull the fronds back and tie them. Wrap a heat tape (bought at a building supply store), around the trunk beginning at the base. Leave the thermostat out at the bottom of the trunk. Continue wrapping around the entire trunk up to the top. One 4′ tall palm needs a 15′ long heat tape. Then, wrap the trunk with 3-4 layer of burlap and secure with duct tape. Over top of all of this, wrap the entirety, including the fronds, with plastic wrap. Plug the tape into a ground fault receptacle. Remove the wrapping just as the weather begins to warm up lest you risk rotting the tree.

All of that is too much work for me. I am lazy. I use the Christmas lights and keep my fingers crossed. I am sure there are many other winter protection methods for palms. Use your imagination and be sure not to wrap the tree too far ahead of the cold and to unwrap it just as the weather warms.


If you love to grow palm trees in your garden but you’re in a part of the world that gets frost during winter, you will have to take extra precautions to make sure that the cold temperatures will not damage or worse, kill your beautiful palm trees. Here are 4 methods to make sure your palm trees won’t be too cold this winter.

Chicken Wire Method

One of the most popular winterization methods, using chicken wire to protect your palms, is a fast and efficient way to go. First, place stakes about three feet apart around your trees, keeping the palm as close to the center as possible. Start layering chicken or fencing wire around the posts, creating a wire basket of sorts around your tree. Fill the basket with leaves until it’s completely full.

This is a method that is sure to keep your trees protected from unwanted frosts and those frigid temperatures that could cause it serious harm, if not kill it completely. Your tree will feel nice and warm, yet still be able to safely breathe on those warmer, sunnier days. Once it starts getting into spring, around March or April, depending on your area’s climate, you can remove the basket and leave your tree free again. This is a great and natural way to keep your palms safe from a hard winter.

By utilizing the natural heat production of the fallen leaves, your trees will be kept at the perfect temperature all winter long. At the same time, they’ll be able to really enjoy those warmer days, meaning you may have even healthier trees once the spring hits. This is a great and safe way to keep your palms safe from the cold. Just make sure you get rid of those leaves once the spring hits, or it could lead to rot at the base of the trunk.

Christmas Lights

Why not turn your protection into a decoration? One of the simplest ways to keep your palm trees warm in those cold winters is by wrapping them in old fashioned Christmas lights. First, you’ll want to tie your palm leaves together into one tall bundle. This will keep them from having any stray leaves falling prey to frostbite.

After you have your bundle together, you’ll want to find classic style Christmas lights to securely wrap around your palm. The heat these lights will give off will be more than enough to save your trees from the cold, no matter how much the temperature drops. It’s important to keep in mind, however, that modern LED lights won’t work due to them being very energy efficient, thus not giving off much warmth.

Old-fashioned lights that are specified for the outdoors are the best option. Find the ones with those larger, thicker bulbs that will ensure a larger coverage area. This will help to guarantee every part of your tree is protected and will stay safe throughout the winter. Make sure you have the best palms ever when it comes time for spring.

Winterize with Water Pipe Insulation

If it’s good enough to protect your pipes, why wouldn’t it be for your trees? In order to use this winterization method, make sure you first cover the soil below the tree with a fair amount of mulch in order to protect the roots from snow and serious freezes. Afterwards, you’ll want to wrap the trunk and the first few leaves with the pipe insulation. It’s important to remember to fold the insulation over, to ensure that no water can get in at any point, which could then freeze and kill your palm.

That’s all there is to this winterization method. Once it’s spring again, quickly remove the insulation and watch as your plant grows back to its healthy size once again. This is a very straightforward technique, but it’s been proven time and time again to work. While you may lose some leaves, the base of your palm will be kept safe and healthy, which is really the most important thing.

This method is most often used on younger plants that won’t be harmed by losing leaves of the top. Shorter trunks lend well to this as the entirety of its length can be protected by the insulation. If you have older, more mature trees, you may want to consider another technique. But this one is great if you have palms that are just starting out.

Heat Tape Technique

This is probably the most involved, but surest way to keep your palms safe, particularly if you have already fully grown trees. First, you’ll want to find all the fronds, pull them up, and tie them back. Make sure you use a strong string that will hold them in place. This protects the trunk of your tree from freezing and killing the new growth, which will eventually kill your palm completely.

After, the second step is to wrap a heat tape, which is often available at any hardware or supply store, around the trunk. Start at the base and work your way up to the top, but make sure you keep the thermometer at the bottom. You need to make sure the trunk is completely covered. Buy extra tape just in case.

The next step is to wrap up the entire trunk with three to four layers of burlap. Once it’s completely covered, make sure to carefully secure it with duct tape. It’s important to remember to keep the thermostat on the outside of the burlap so that you can always have an accurate reading. It’s absolutely crucial that you wrap up every single part of the trunk, including the fronds, in this material.

Once the burlap has been properly placed, it’s time to rewrap the entire trunk in plastic wrap or shrink wrap, whichever you prefer to use. This is an important step for two reasons. One, it keeps the burlap securely in place, as without this extra layer it could fall and leave your trunk exposed. And, two, it helps ensure that snow and other liquids can’t easily enter, which could cause serious problems later on or if it freezes.

Once this step is finished, you’ll be able to plug in your heating tape and rest assured that your palms will be protected all winter long. However, it’s important to remember a few things. First, only plug in your heat tape to a ground fault receptacle in order to ensure both the palms as well as your own safety. Second, make sure you only wrap trees before the cold starts and are quick to unwrap them as soon as spring arrives, since leaving them in this type of wrapping can cause rotting and decay.


Palm Cold Protection

Protecting Your Trees from the Cold

Generally speaking, the homeowner who is concerned about the effects of winter weather on their palms has little to worry about. However, the unpredictable climate of the winter months can sometimes produce unexpected ‘cold snaps’. It is in the face of freezing temperatures such as these that your palms will require extra attention.

Cold weather can affect plants in a variety of ways. First, frost or freezing temperatures can damage the actual tissue of the plant as well as limiting the conduction of water through the trunk. As well, cold weather will slow down the growth of your palm and reduce the activity of the roots. As this occurs, the palm is weakened and susceptible to the perils of disease.

There are, thankfully, a number of preventative measures one can take to encourage the survival of palms through the winter. If you have the advantage of being able to choose where to plant a new palm, ensure that you decide upon a warm and sunny spot well protected from winter winds. Winds from the north and west are particularly harmful. Any number of evergreens will serve as adequate windscreens – fences or walls that allow some air through work well also. If you are able, situate your palm close to the south or east sides of your house. The heat of your home will further protect them.

If you are aware of an oncoming ‘cold snap’, there exist a number of easy, preventative measures. If your palm is small, a box or blanket placed over it, and weighted down, will protect most species. Be careful not to leave the cover on the plant for more than five days at the most. Burying your smaller palms under a mound of straw or other type of mulch can also provide effective protection for your smaller palms. It should be noted that when the weather warms up, the mulch should be removed immediately so as not to promote rot.

For larger palms with tall, exposed trunks there are slightly different methods of protection. Again, when a colder period is impending, one can protect the plant by tightly wrapping the trunk in burlap, blankets, or similar materials. These materials should also be removed once the weather warms up.

In the case of preventing disease from over-powering a cold-damaged plant there are also proactive measures a homeowner may wish to employ. When a palm is weakened by winter damage, the bacterium that exists on a palm is capable of causing great damage to the plant. Treating your palm with a fungicidal copper spray before the onset of freezing temperatures may help to lower the levels of possibly harmful bacteria. As well, proper fertilization of your palm in late summer and early fall, can help ensure that your plant remains stronger through the winter months.

Treating Cold Damage

However, cold-weather damage can and will happen despite one’s best laid plans. What, if any, recourse does a homeowner have when faced with a damaged plant? First, it is important to determine the level of injury to the bud tissue inside the trunk. Providing that the tissue has not been too heavily affected, the plant should produce new leaves during the following summer. A fairly accurate test to assess the extent of the damage is too gently tug on a leaf newly emerging from the trunk. If the spear pulls out, there is damage to the tissue of the palm.

If there has been damage to the buds and many of the palms leaves have been killed, the battle is not necessarily over. In such instances, one should remove all of the damaged leaves and shoots from the surface of the trunk, and then apply a copper-based fungicide. Some recommend removing all tissue from the surface of the trunk – with a small saw for example- and consistently spraying the palm with a fungicide until the plant is strong again. In any case, patience is key. Injured palms require an entire spring and summer season to begin their recovery.

Recommended Products

Liquid Copper Fungicide

TreeHelp Cold Weather Blankets

TreeHelp Annual Care Kit for Palms & Sagos

Relationship Advice

In Southern States, the Northern type palm trees that withstand cold temperatures of -20* F will also thrive in the South. The Northern type palm trees, such as Windmill Palm trees, Trachycarpus fortunei, Needle Palm trees, Rhapidophyllum hystrix, Dwarf palmetto palm tree, Sabal minor, and Dwarf Saw Palmetto palm trees, Serenoa repens, are discussed in another article by the same author called “Cold Hardy Palm Trees for Landscape Design and Planting in the United States.” Other palm trees that are abundantly planted and grown in the Southern States are the Washingtonia (Washington) Fan Palm Tree, Washingtonia robusa, the Pindo (Jelly) Palm Tree, Butia capitata ‘Pindo,’ the Sago Palm Tree, Cycas revoluta, the Chinese Fan Palm Tree, Livistonia chinensis, and the European Fan Palm Tree (Mediterranean Fan Palm Tree), Chamaerops humilis. This latter list of Southern States, adapted palm trees can be found planted and growing extensively throughout the South, principally because their growth rate is faster than the Northern States’ list of cold hardy palm trees, and the cost is considerably less for large established specimens that offer a fast fix for the tropical look.

Washingtonia (Washington) Fan Palm, Washingtonia robusta, also known as the Mexican Fan Palm Tree, the Washingtonia (Washington) Fan Palm tree has been planted to grow in landscapes throughout the Southern United States. The Washingtonia Fan palm tree is a favorite tree for planting near motels, because it grows fast. Washington Fan palm trees also are lined along interstate highways and at metropolitan boulevard parks. The imposing height of this palm tree can grow 100 feet tall in Mexico where it is native. The Washingtonia (Washington) Fan Palm tree is the fastest growing of the cold hardy palm trees in America. TyTy Nursery offers various sizes of Washingtonia palm trees for the gardener to buy.
Pindo (Jelly) Palm Tree – Butia capitata ?Pindo’ The distinctive look of the Pindo palm tree, Butia capitata ?Pindo’ is unforgettable. Pindo palm trees are tolerant of salt water spray and can be found growing up and down coastal areas from Virginia to South Florida, Zones 8-10. The leaf color of the Pindo palm tree is blue-green, growing up to 6 ft. long, but the actual palm tree rarely grows taller than fifteen feet tall. The large orange fruit is tasty and in the South is used to make jelly, tasting like banana-pineapple. The Pindo palm tree survived the severe zero degree temperatures in the historical 1983 deep freeze in the South.
Sago Palm Tree – Cycas revoluta In Sicily, Italy, Sago palm trees grow to fifteen feet tall, but only after decades of growth. This palm tree, known as the Sago palm and is perhaps the most widely marketed palm tree, because of its easy maintenance requirements and livability. The Sago palm is commonly used as a container tree at restaurants and cafes. Sago palm trees are moderately cold hardy and this palm survived the zero temperatures in the winter of 1983. The Sago palm tree is a popular container palm tree to be placed in pairs at door entrances, Zones 8-11.
Chinese Fan Palm Tree – Livistonia chinensis Even though the growth rate of the Chinese Fan palm tree is slow it can grow 25 ft. tall. The huge leaves are beautiful and arch upwards on the Chinese Fan Palm tree. The Chinese Fan palm tree is widely grown and adaptable in Zones 9-11. The Chinese Fan Palm tree, Livistonia chinensis, is commonly planted and grown as a landscape specimen.
European Fan Palm Tree (Mediterranean Fan Palm Tree) – Chamaerops humilis A native palm tree to the Mediterranean region, the European Fan Palm, Chamaerops humilis can be seen growing extensively in Europe growing as clumps of outside specimen trees or potted in large containers useful as decorative trees outside restaurants and cafes at such cities as Paris, Rome and Athens. When stripped of offset palms the European Fan palm forms a very graceful plant solitary in landscapes, looking similar to the Windmill Palm tree, Trachycarpus fortunei, both with tall slender trunks and small fan shaped leaves. European Fan palm tree clumps are extensively used at the Cloister Hotel at Sea Island, GA as specimen clusters in the landscape design. They are cold hardy in Zones 8-11.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *