Oriental lily bloom time

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Oriental lily Bulbs Lilium Fragrant flower bulbs pack of 3 Mix color

Oriental lily Bulbs are the classic “late bloomer.” These stunning flowering bulbs bloom after Asiatic lilies, continuing the lily parade in the landscape well into the season. Growing oriental lily plants is fairly easy provided you have a well prepared site for bulbs, plenty of sun and good drainage. Some of the most magnificent flowers in the lily family are in this large group of species and cultivars. Read on to learn how to grow oriental lilies for a colorful, magical blooming garden surrounding your home.

It as pack of mix color, at bulb level color separation is not possible, you will get random colors which is picked, in some % chances you may get all 3 same also

Oriental lily Bulbs HOW TO PLANT LILIES

  • Oriental lily Bulbs Select a site with soil that drains well. How can you tell? After a good rain, find a spot that is the first to dry out. Water trapped beneath the overlapping scales on the lily bulb may cause rot, so a well-drained site is essential.
  • Lilies need lots of sun. For dependable blooms, lilies need 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight a day. If it’s too shady, the stems will attempt to lean towards the sun or get spindly and fall over.
  • Lilies are best suited for Zones 3 to 8. They do not thrive in Zones 9 and 10 without a period of refrigeration; they need a cold, dormant period.
  • Most of the popular varieties prefer acidic to neutral soil, but some are lime-tolerant or prefer alkaline soils (e.g., Madonna lilies).
  • Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches. The deep planting encourages the developing stem to send out roots to help stabilize the plant and perhaps eliminate the need for staking. Also, deep planting keeps lily bulbs cool when temperatures soar.
  • Enrich the soil with leaf mold or well-rotted organic matter to encourage good drainage. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
  • Plant the bulbs 3 times as deep as the height of the bulb and set the bulb in the hole pointy side up. Fill the hole with soil and tamp gently.
  • Space bulbs at a distance equal to three times the bulb’s diameter (usually about 8 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety).
  • For a good effect, plant lilies in groups of 3 to 5 bulbs.
  • Water thoroughly.

Oriental lily Bulbs Details

  • Oriental lily Bulbs

    Botanical NameLilium oriental

  • FormPerennial
  • Hardiness Zone3 to 8
  • Flowering TimeEarly to mid summer
  • Light RequirementsFull Sun, Partial Shade
  • Flower Coloras mentioned
  • Flower FormUpfacing, trumpet flower
  • Foliage TypeNarrow, long lance-shaped leaves.
  • Growth RateMedium
  • Height/Habit3-4′
  • Spread9 – 12 inches
  • Planting Instructions15 cm deep and 23 – 30 cm apart
  • Soil RequirementsPrefers well drained soil, but will tolerate heavier soils.
  • Will TolerateClay Soil, Loamy Soil, Sandy Soil
  • PruningDon’t remove leaves until they have died down in fall. They help provide nourishment to the bulb for next season’s blooms.

by High Country Gardens

Oriental Lily Stargazer

The oriental/trumpet lily (aka Orienpet) is the result of hybridizing the fragrant oriental lily with the large flowered trumpet lily.The result is a true case of hybrid vigor – plants that have larger flowers, stronger stems and robust constitutions. Interested in creating beautiful bouquets? Learning how to successfully plant oriental lilies will allow you to grow the beautiful cut flowers in your own garden!

How to Plant Oriental Lilies: Recommended Care

They are hardy in zones 3-9 and make long-lasting cut flowers. Plant in the spring in well-drained, compost enriched soil.

Work the soil to a depth of 12 inches to encourage sturdy root growth. Plant 3-4 bulbs per square foot at a depth of 6-8 inches – flat side of bulb down, pointy end up.

If the bulb is sprouted at planting time, no worries – leave the sprout on and plant as usual. Water generously and mulch to preserve moisture.

During summer, water as needed to keep your plant moist, but not soggy. Watering deeply, less frequently is better than frequent, light watering.

How to Plant Oriental Lilies: After Season Care

Casa Blanca Oriental Lily Bulbs (Customer Photo by Lynn S.)

  • Once flowering is past leave the foliage on the plant to continue to nurture the bulbs.
  • Once the leaves have yellowed and died, you may remove them.
  • A winter mulch of 4-6 inches will encourage root growth as the season cools.
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    Learn More Forever Susan Asiatic Lily Forever Susan Asiatic Lily Lilium Forever Susan Regular Price $10.99 Sale $9.89 Per Bag of 3 You save: 10% ‘Forever Susan’ Asiatic Lily has vivid, deep burgundy flowers highlighted with bright gold and orange. Enriching the summer garden with a profusion of blooms, ‘Forever Susan’ will bridge the season between spring-blooming bulbs and summer’s blossoms. Lilies are excellent cut flowers and will attract pollinators to your garden. Learn More

  2. Elegant and unique, ‘Landini’ Asiatic Lily will fill the early summer garden with deep purple star-like flowers. These dramatic flowers add the perfect mystery to a garden bed or…

    Learn More Landini Asiatic Lily Landini Asiatic Lily Lilium Landini Regular Price $11.99 Sale $10.79 Per Bag of 3 You save: 10% Elegant and unique, ‘Landini’ Asiatic Lily will fill the early summer garden with deep purple star-like flowers. These dramatic flowers add the perfect mystery to a garden bed or cut flower arrangement, sometimes looking like shadows, sometimes like a jewel-tone treasure. The deep color can contrast with bright summer flowers, or blend beautifully with other lilies. An easy-to-grow favorite loved by both gardeners and pollinators! Learn More

  3. Oriental Lily ‘Stargazer’ is a classic beauty blooming in summer with large fragrant flowers colored with deep pink strips and speckles, giving the flower a the look of stars in the …

    Learn More Stargazer Oriental Lily Stargazer Oriental Lily Lilium Stargazer Regular Price $10.99 Sale $9.89 Per Bag of 3 You save: 10% Oriental Lily ‘Stargazer’ is a classic beauty blooming in summer with large fragrant flowers colored with deep pink strips and speckles, giving the flower a the look of stars in the sky. Learn More

  4. Asiatic Lily Sunset Mix is a colorful mix of yellow, orange and red lilies, these easy-to-grow perennials bulbs are an excellent choice for cold winter areas….

    Learn More Sunset Asiatic Lily Mix Sunset Asiatic Lily Mix Lilium Sunset Mix Regular Price $12.99 Sale $11.69 Per Bag of 6 You save: 10% Asiatic Lily Sunset Mix is a colorful mix of yellow, orange and red lilies, these easy-to-grow perennials bulbs are an excellent choice for cold winter areas. Learn More

Oriental Lilies make wonderful cut flowers.

  • Choose blooms that are just about to open (not tight), with a bit of flower showing. Trim the stem and make a diagonal cut into it.
  • Remove any leaves below water. The pollen can stain tablecloths and clothing so simply snip off the stamens if this is a concern.

Long-lasting, a fresh bouquet will last about two weeks. Two weeks of exotic, sweetly scented flowers – what’s not to like?!

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There are so many beautiful Oriental lilies available that they could easily make a stunningly colourful garden on their own without any other flowers. They’re most beautiful standing among other shorter growing flowers and shrubs.

Giant Oriental lilies are really easy to grow and they produce beautiful fragrant flowers right from their first year. They are great for novice gardeners and kids gardens.

The bulbs are available in the early spring and early fall. They come in a wide range of solid colours and many colour combinations.

Their height ranges from 18″ to 72″ depending on the variety. They can reach 7 ft tall or more in good conditions.

Characteristics

  • Bulb will produce a flower the first year
  • They’ll usually thrive in less than ideal growing conditions
  • Very fragrant
  • They don’t require a large amount of soil space

They thrive in climate zones 3 – 8. This is a very wide temperature range, so they will very likely grow well in your area too.

Oriental Lilies will grow in containers for many years and will withstand quite a bit of abuse and even dry to poor soil conditions.

If you have extended months of cold winter weather then they may not survive in a container.

If you have the option of planting it in the ground then do that. Choose a comfortable out of the way spot for it where it won’t get disturbed from year to year, but is still easily seen from the house and garden.

Proper placement gives the bulb maximum opportunity to acclimatize to its environment and grow to it’s largest possible size. The show of blooms will be worth the effort.

Selecting Your Bulbs

If you would like your lilies to look like the ones featured in the images here then select the colours you like and make sure the label says Oriental, 48″ tall or more and Fragrant

If you’re in a store, then also choose the physically largest bulb you can find out of the entire display.

Planting Instructions

When you look at the bulb, if there are roots visible they go on the bottom. Sometimes the bulb has already started to grow in the package and it clearly shows you which way is up.

It’s ok to plant up to 4-6 bulbs in an 18″ round or square container. They don’t mind being cozy with each other as long as they get enough water throughout the warm growing season.

Choose the sunniest location you have available as this will help them to grow strong and healthy.

  • Plant the bulb down about 4″ to 6″
  • Cover the bulb with a few inches more soil
  • Pat down firmly for stability

The stalk can tip over if the roots don’t get a good grip from the beginning.

Don’t place them along a hedge or tree line. The trees will cast shade and then the lily stalks will lean and reach toward the brightest side of the garden. The benefit to having them grow in a container is that if the stalk leans at all you can give it a half turn once a day to keep it growing straight up.

After planting, in a very short amount of time you’ll see a sprout emerge, usually in less than 2 weeks. Keep the watering consistent but not excessive throughout the growing and blooming period.

If you live in a rainy area then adjust your watering accordingly so the bulb doesn’t stay soggy.

The blooms should last a few weeks each before they start to fade and fall off. After all the blooms are done and there’s no evidence of more flowers coming, leave the stalk standing. Leave it there for the duration of the summer until the stalk itself and the leaves on it have turned yellow.

This allows the plant time to take back the nutrients that it put out in order to bloom in the spring. These returned nutrients make the bulb much stronger for the next year.

When it’s all yellow or brown then you are free to cut off the stalk about 2″ from the ground. That’s it until next year.

Varieties

There are at least 12 different colours of Oriental lily, each with various mature heights ranging from 24″ to 72″.

Quite often you’ll find that when the package says the bulb has a mature height of 48″ the plant will actually grow a bit taller than that.

One of the most fragrant and beautiful is the stunning Casablanca. It’s pure white, elegant and is often grown to be used in weddings and other events. In the garden it will grow up to 48″ or more with good care.

When you plant several of the fragrant lilies you’ll be greeted every day with the air in your yard or balcony being filled with the pleasant scent of these lovely flowers when you go out in the morning.

Plant the taller ones in the back (or place containers) so that the tallest ones are behind the shorter ones and you’ll get a very beautiful arrangement with many flowers.

Largest Lily Bulbs

  • The Casablanca – Pure white (48″)
  • Conca d’Or – Electric Yellow (48″-60″)
  • Dizzy – White with magenta stripes down the center of each petal with speckles (48″-60″)
  • Golden Star Gazer – Sunshine yellow (48″-60″)
  • Muscadet – White with pale pink stripes down each petal with pink speckles (36″-48″)
  • Scheherazade – Mainly burgundy with lighter yellow or pale green edges on each petal with dark red speckles (36″-48″)
  • Stargazer – Hot pink with white edges

The names of the bulbs may be different in your region, so look for the tallest mature height of Oriental bulb on the package in you’re favourite colour and you’ll be fine.

Also, check to the package to see if it’s fragrant or not. Always choose “Fragrant” of course for beautiful aromatic days in the summer.

Lilies vs Slugs

The biggest problem you’ll likely ever have with growing lilies is slugs and snails, depending on your area. One or both of these slimy pests will be an issue if you live in any sort of a moist, rainy or temperate climate.

In the early spring it will be necessary to apply slug poison or traps to your garden. This article details many remedies for slugs and snails that will help.

The slugs will eat an emerging lily sprout faster than it can grow. The flower sprout will eventually die from stress.

It’s easy to tell if you are dealing with slugs, the emerging lily sprout will not have it’s characteristic pointed leaves and the stump will be misshapen. Each day that you go out to check on its progress, you’ll notice no growth or very little change from the days before.

Look closely and you’ll probably see that it’s slugs. Select and use the remedies or poisons of your choice and enjoy the beautiful summer lilies.

Lily Leaf Beetles

The other main pest of the lily is the Lily Leaf Beetle. It’s known as the scarlet lily leaf beetle (Lilioceris lilii).

It’s a little red, hard shelled bug that completely devours lily leaves and foliage right down to the stem and eats until only the bare stalk of the plant is left.

Their preferred food is the lily, but the adults will also eat the foliage of some other species. These include:

They are a big problem on the east coast of North America. They were accidentally introduced to to North America through Quebec Canada in 1943, They are particularly bad in the north East areas near New England, the Maritime provinces in Canada and have recently been found as far west as Manitoba in Canada and Bellevue, Washington in the USA.

The Scarlet Lily Beetle prefers the Asiatic lily the most, but also likes Trumpet lilies, some types of Oriental lilies, Tiger lilies and Turk’s Cap lilies. The Day lily is not affected.

Identification

Look under the leaves, you’ll be able to see chewing damage on the edges of the leaves as well as egg masses in narrow rows on the underside of the leaves. The egg masses are usually red or brown in colour. It’s the larva that do the most damage, even more than the adults.

The adult beetles over winter in the leaves and debris on the ground and begin laying eggs early in spring. The larva hatch in 67 – 10 days and begin to feed on the new lily sprouts. The early blooming Daffodils and Fritillaria are on the menu too.

If the problem is bad then you’ll see clusters of small globs of brown stuff on the leaves and leaf nodes of the lily. This is the excrement of the larva, that they’ve piled on top of themselves for protection. The larva eat for 16 to 24 days and then go down to the soil to pupate, then 16 to 22 days after that then the adults emerge to carry on the cycle.

Plan of Attack

If you’re dealing with this pest there are a few solutions that you can start with to help save your lilies.

The first is kind of nasty…hand picking and hand squishing. This means go out to the garden several times a week and hand pick off the adults and squish all the egg clusters you can find. I recommend wearing latex or vinyl gloves. Also take with you a small bucket of water mixed with dish soap to put the leaves and squished remains in to after you get them.

Sprays

There are two sprays that are showing to be effective against this pest. The first is Neem oil. This one repels the adults and kills the larva. Apply it every 5 to 7 days and early in the season.

The other is Spinosad, this is a widely used organic pesticide that is derived from soil dwelling bacterium. If used regularly it’s shown to be effective.

Once you learn how to grow giant Oriental lilies you’ll be astounded at how beautiful and easy they are.

Please leave a comment if you need assistance with your lily garden. Share with other readers what your experiences have been with growing Oriental Lilies.

Lily Lovers – The Ultimate Guide to Growing Lilies

Now that we are well into the cooler days – and nights – of winter, we can revel in the fact that this is the perfect season for planting out one of Mother Nature’s best creations – Lilium Bulbs. The sheer delight of these flowers speak for themselves, and they can be incorporated into any size garden, are brilliant cut flowers, can be planted in pots to provide brilliant colour and in many cases fragrance for years to come.

Most areas of Australia are suitable to grow these delicious flowers, and there are just a few basic, or golden rules to follow. So if you have never grown Lilium Bulbs before, read on to discover the simple steps for growing them successfully in your own garden …

GETTING DOWN AND DIRTY

Even if you only have a small garden, providing you have a sunny spot you can grow Liliums as they only require a space 20-30cm wide. Their tall, strong stems hold the blooms well above many low growing plant varieties, so Lilies can easily be popped in pockets (you need at least three together to look the part) here and there as a great colour accent. Of course, if you have plenty of space, you could try a bold planting of Lilies, with clumps of solid colour for maximum impact.

Liliums are best grown in morning sun, or light shade. Lilies don’t like to dry out, so unless you are prepared to water regularly it is a good idea to keep them a little protected from the hot afternoon rays.

Liliums like humus rich, moist soil, and if you want to get technical, an acid PH. Lilies will tolerate poorer soils if you fertilise them well, it is also a good idea to add in a bit of well rotted compost or manure fertiliser to give the Lilies a bit of get up and go while they are establishing. Good soil drainage is essential to ensure the Lily bulbs do not rot away during their dormant stage in winter. If the ground puddles after rain, you will need to improve the drainage.

When planting your Lilies, dig your hole twice as deep as the Lily bulb is tall, around 10-20cm, depending on the variety of Lilium you are planting. Place your bulb with the tip pointing up and refill the hole. You can easily dig a larger hole and place a few Lilies in at time, as they look good when planted fairly densely, around three to four bulbs for a 30cm diameter hole. Water your Lilium bulbs in well. You will see the stem growth coming through in one to two weeks, once they start growing keep your Lilies fairly moist. Once they begin to flower water weekly if rainfall is low. Mulching through summer is great as it helps to keep in moisture and keep the Lilies roots cool.

Dig the soil over so it is nice and loose

Gather your bulbs

Lay your bulbs out on the ground to determine your planting plan

Lift the soil with your trowel and place the bulb in the hole, covering with soil

Water in, then wait for the show!

UP AND GROWING

New Lily bulb shoots are quite attractive to slugs and snails, the old trick of a few dishes of beer around the planting area should help to contain them. We have a lot of pesky rabbits on our farm at the moment who also enjoy Lily bulb shoots, so do what you can to keep these critters away too. Applying blood and bone can help deter them, and add nutrients for your Lily bulbs at the same time.

Once planted, Lilium bulbs are best left undisturbed. You need only lift and divide them every three or four years. In ideal conditions Lily bulbs settle in fast and begin to multiply. As each bulb needs a bit of space and nutrients to grow, digging and dividing them helps them to be their big, robust best. Plus you get more Lilies for your garden, or to share with family and friends. If you don’t dig and divide them they tend to lose their vigour and won’t flower as well as they could.

Fertilise your Liliums with a complete fertiliser in late winter and again in summer for best blooms.

Liliums make great cut flowers as you probably know, so it is always a good idea to plant a few extra for this purpose. When you pick your blooms, try to leave 2/3 of the flower stalk in the garden. The bulb needs a good amount of leaf area to help put energy back into the bulb for next seasons flowers.

CONTAIN YOUR EXCITEMENT

Liliums can be grown very successfully in containers too, with varieties such as Christmas Lilies being popular for this purpose.

When planting Lilies in pots simply choose a container with a size and shape that will complement the height of the flowers; without looking out of proportion. Make sure that the container has excellent drainage, and can easily accommodate the Lilium bulbs without them touching the sides of the pot.

Use the best quality potting mix you can buy, preferably one with a slow release fertiliser. Plant your Lilium bulbs twice as deep as they are high, then water them in. Water your Lily bulbs regularly once they are actively growing, so they don’t completely dry out. If you give them a little extra pampering, such as adding a liquid fertiliser fortnightly over summer, this will ensure the best and longest lasting flowers possible.

SETTING THE SCHEDULE

If you want to time your Lily display for a special occasion, plant them in weekly lots. As nature isn’t entirely predictable this will help to ensure that at least some of them are on show. From planting, Liliums will take a nice quick turn around of 8-14 weeks to flower. They are so ready to get up and grow, we have to keep ours in fridges just to stop them shooting too fast in transport.

As Liliums are available for most of the year this means you can have quite a show through summer. You can set them to go off like colourful fireworks amongst your beds.

AFTER THE SHOW

Once your Lilies have finished flowering in the garden, cut the stems as soon as the flowers have finished, so the bulbs don’t waste their energy on seed production. Cut them leaving 2/3 of the stem standing, then let the foliage remain until it has yellowed. You can then cut your Lily stem to around 5cm, and the Lilium bulb will become dormant.

LILY LOVE

Flowering from late spring onwards and through the summer months, Liliums can literally light up your garden and there is such a wonderful range, the hardest thing about them is choosing! Keep an eye out for our next blog post for some of the different types of Lilies available.

Potted Lily Plants – Tips On Planting Lilies In Containers

Many of us plant lovers have limited space in our gardens. You may live in an apartment, with no yard, or you may have already filled your flower beds to the brim. Yet, you find yourself drawn to the exotic look of lilies and, as a result, wonder “can you grow lily plants in pots?” The answer is yes. As long as you have enough space on your porch, patio or balcony for a medium to large pot, you can grow potted lily plants. Read on to learn more.

Container Grown Lilies

To grow potted lily plants, you will need these few things:

  • Healthy lily bulbs – You can purchase lily bulbs from many places. Mail order catalogs, home improvement stores, garden centers and plant nurseries often have lily bulbs for sale in packages. When you get these bulbs home, it’s important to sort through them. Throw away any bulbs that are mushy or moldy. Plant only the bulbs that look healthy.
  • A medium to large, well-draining pot – Proper drainage is very important for lilies. While they like moist soil, sopping wet soil will cause the bulbs to rot. Make sure you select a container with drainage holes on the bottom. For extra drainage, add a layer of rocks in the bottom of the pot. This layer of rocks will also help stabilize the pot if you are growing tall lilies, but it will make the pot a little heavy to move around. Select the proper size pot for the amount of lilies you are planting. The bulbs should be planted about 2” apart. Deeper pots are better for taller lilies.
  • Sandy potting mix – Lilies do best in partially sandy soils. Potting mixes that are mostly peat will stay too wet and again cause bulb rot. However, you can buy any potting mix and just add sand to it. Mix about 2 parts potting mix with 1 part sand. The more sand, the heavier the pot will be, though.
  • Slow release fertilizer – Lilies are heavy feeders. When you plant them, add a slow release fertilizer like Osmocote, to the top layer of the soil. Your lilies will also benefit from a monthly dose of potassium-rich tomato fertilizer during the growing season.

Planting Lilies in Containers

When you have everything you need, you can begin planting lilies in containers. Fill your pot 1/3 of the way full with the sandy potting mix and pat it down a little. Don’t press it down too hard and compact the soil, just a light even patting will do.

Arrange the lilies how you want them on this layer potting mix, with the root side down and bulb tip up. Remember to space the bulbs about 2” apart. I like to plant them in a bullseye scheme by height. I place one tall variety of lily in the center, then a ring of medium height lilies around it, then one last ring of dwarf lilies around that.

After you have arranged the bulbs to your liking, cover with enough potting mix so that the bulbs’ tips are slightly sticking out. Add slow release fertilizer and water well.

Most lilies need a cold period in order to grow beautiful blooms. It is best to pot them up in early spring and then put them in a frost free, cool greenhouse or cold frame for a few weeks until outside temperatures become warm and stable. If you do not have a greenhouse or cold frame, a cool garden shed, garage or basement will work.

Once the weather permits it, place your potted lily plants outside in a sunny to part sunny location. If there is any danger of frost, simply move your potted lily plants indoors until it has passed.

Care of Lilies in Pots

Once your container grown lilies begin to grow from the bulb tips, add more potting mix to the container. Keep the soil line about an inch below the brim of the pot for watering. You should water only when the top layer of soil looks dry. I usually just stick the tip of my finger right in the soil to see if it feels dry or moist. If dry, I water thoroughly. If moist, I check again the next day.

Asiatic and Oriental lilies will bloom between June and August. After the blooms have faded, deadhead them to encourage new flowers and bulb growth rather than seed development. A dose of tomato fertilizer once a month also helps the blooms and bulbs. August should be the last month you use fertilizer.

Overwintering Container Grown Lilies

Your potted lily plants can live in these containers for a few years with proper overwintering. In autumn, cut the stalks back to just above the soil line. Discontinue watering at this time so the bulbs don’t rot.

Stick a few mothballs in the pot to deter mice and other pests. Then simply overwinter them in a frost free greenhouse, cold frame, shed or basement. You can also wrap the entire pot in bubble wrap and leave it outside for the winter if you don’t have a cool shelter to put it in.

Do not bring container grown lilies into a warm house for the winter, as that will prevent them from flowering next summer.

The Asiatic lily (Lilium asiatica) makes a perfect plant for landscape design. One of the hardiest and most popular type of lilies grown, this true lily when planted correctly, produce long-lasting flowers.

Beginners new to planting bulbs find Asiatic lilies among the easiest of all lilies to play with.

They are the first lilies of the season to flower (early summer), and they multiply fast.

With simple care, these hardy, temperate northern hemisphere natives, grow and do well in USDA hardiness zones 10 all the way to 3.

Deep History Of Asiatic Lily Flowers From Ancient Egypt To China

The history of the Asiatic lilies run deep. Painted flowers of the Asiatic lily were found adorning the walls in ancient Egyptian pyramids.

Chinese paintings with the lily found their way into the power circle of Louis XIV.

Oriental Lily VS Asiatic Hybrid Lilies

The Oriental hybrids share a number of features with the Asiatic hybrid lily.

However, they also possess distinct differences and no one should see them as the same. A few of their dissimilarities include fragrance, sizes, and bloom color.

How Big Are Asiatic Lily Bulbs?

The bulbs of Asiatic lilly flowers appear large – 5″ to 6″ inches across – generally white along with a tint of pink.

The bulb color plays no part in flower color. Lily bulbs when harvested often look pinkish after exposure to sunlight.

The large bulbs store a lot of food giving them plenty of flower power in the spring, even with sub-par soil, water and fertilizer.

Asiatic Lily Care: Planting And Growing Asian Lilies

As stated earlier, Asiatic lily hybrids are the hardiest of all the lily hybrids. They flower fast each season and multiply fast making them perfect for beginners.

This hybrid lily comes in a wide range of colors from red, pink, yellow, orange, white and all other shades of bloom and color combinations except blue.

Plants provide a long season of bloom (up to 1 month), with flowers facing mostly upward and some provide a very light scent on warm windless days.

How To Plant Asiatic Lily Bulbs

Plant Asian lily flower bulbs in early spring or fall before frost in a fertile, well-drained soil. This allows the plants to develop a good root system.

Adding organic matter like peat moss will help improve the soil.

When you plant lilies, place them 12″ to 18″ inches apart and at a planting depth of 4″ to 6″ inches in full or partial sun.

A location receiving morning or late afternoon sun with six hours of sunlight minimum is preferable. Asian lilies like a slightly acidic (6.5 pH.) soil.

When you receive fresh bulbs plant them as soon as possible to keep them from drying out.

For a nicer look, place three or more lily bulbs that will eventually multiply into groupings.

Plant them among other flowers to provide the bulbs with shade. A bulb planter comes in handy to make a hole at just the right depth.

Tips For Watering Your Lily bulbs

The best Asiatic lily care will have bulbs planted with good drainage, but not a dry soil. Asiatics need 1 or 2 inches of water per week.

During hot and dry weather, the lilies may need supplemental watering to ensure the root zone stays well moistened. (A drip hose is a great option.) The soil should remain moist and not soggy.

As a guide, water the lilies when the top 1 inch of soil below the surface becomes dry will provide the plant with the needed moisture for them to thrive.

How To Fertilize Asiatic Lilies

A light ring of 5-10-10 fertilizer around the lilies, mixed into the topsoil provides the nutrients required for Asiatic lilies to thrive.

This type of fertilizer supplies phosphorus and other nutrients needed for large and healthy blooms.

Related Reading:

  • Fertilizing Lilies – When & How Much
  • Foxtail Lily (Eremurus lilies) flower spikes 8′ to 10′ feet tall

Apply the fertilizer once the lilies begin to grow each spring following the application rate directions on the fertilizer bag.

Generally, these lilies do not require frequent fertilizing.

Propagating Asiatic Lilies

Propagate lilies from stem bulblets, bulb scales, stem bulbils, and bulb division. The fastest way comes from dividing plump bulbs.

Pull them apart and plant them separately.

The video below shows how to propagate lily bulbs by ‘Scaling”

When And How To Deadhead Asiatic Lilies

Deadheading the blooms as soon as the petals drop improves the appearance but also prevents the plant from using up its energy on seed development.

How to prune lilies?

DO NOT prune the foliage however until it dies off naturally during fall. The leaves work gathering energy from the sun to store in the bulbs for next season’s bloom.

How To Care For Asiatic Lily Bulbs After Blooming – Mulching and Winter Care

Once the foliage dies back naturally, cut the dead foliage to the ground.

Add a layer of 4 -6 inches of mulch – straw or leaf mold – to provide the bulbs with protection during winter.

This helps maintain soil temperature and prevent heaving.

Remove the mulch during spring after all danger of the frost passes. This will give room for new growth to appear.

A 2″ – inch layer of bark mulch applied after removing the winter mulch helps to preserve soil moisture and prevents weeds.

Asiatic Lilies Pests And Diseases

Asiatic lilies find themselves susceptible to fungal infection and aphids.

To get rid of aphids on Asian lilies and make sure your plants remain aphid free, use neem spray oil insecticide, summer oil or Malathion.

Also, use fungicides such as green guard, bravo or a baking soda fungus spray by mixing 1 tablespoon of baking soda in two liters of warm water for fungal infection.

NOTE: Asiatic hybrids and species along with Oriental lilies may experience attacks from the destructive red lily beetle (Lilioceris lilii) which feeds almost exclusively on true lilies species (Lilium spp.).

Asiatic Uses In The Home And Garden

The stems of Asiatic lilies make nice cut flowers for use in floral arrangements. The lilies bloom last for several days up to several weeks.

Grow them as ground covers or in mixed perennial garden borders alongside other woody shrubs and flowering perennials.

They also make wonderful potted specimens.

Cat Caution

Keep cats away from your lily bed as they like to lay in them and they can break the stems and ruin the plant.

Summary

The Asiatic lily plant could be called the “dream lily” of a home gardener.

How much sun do lilies need?

Give them good, rich soil, lots of sunshine, water occasionally, and provide a little fertilizer and they do the rest.

When do Asiatic lilies bloom? Do Asiatic lilies bloom all summer?

During bloom time for most types of this summer flower bulb is late May or June, where the bulbs produce an abundance of 3 to 12 blooms in a wide range of colors.

Don’t forget to give “other” Asiatic lily varieties a try such as the white and orange Asiatic lily.

All of them are easy to grow and also give gardens lots of colorful bloom to enjoy.

When Will My Lily Bloom?

Lilium (the name distinguishes them from daylilies, which are hemerocallis) come in many divisions, or groups, or types. Some require essentially no care, and some are fussier. In zone 5a to 6b, where I have lived for the last 20 years, I have found that the bloom sequence for lilies can be extended over several months, from asiatics in June to formosanum/longiflorums in fall. Best of all, there are lilies that can survive zones 1 through 10.

Here are the classifications of lilies:

Division 1: Hybrids of Asiatic species
Division 2: Hybrids of Martagon lilies
Division 3: Hybrids of L. candidum and L. chalcedonicum
Division 4: Hybrids of American species lilies
Division 5: Hybrids of L. longiflorum and L. formosanum
Division 6: Aurelian hybrids, Trumpet lilies and L. henryi crosses
Division 7: Oriental hybrids
Division 8: All other hybrids
Division 9: All other species and their cultivars

The earliest blooming lilies in my 5a zone garden are the division 2 martagons, which are legendary for the characteristic of such early bloom. Mine typically open in the first week of June (zones 5 to 9). You can adjust these bloom times for your own zone.

This is lilium martagon album:

The most popular lilies sold to gardeners in garden centers are Division 1 asiatics. They are usually potted. (Caution: do not buy lilies that are sold as individual loose bulbs in bins. Lilies never go dormant, and perform poorly if allowed to linger in warm conditions, so those room temperature lilies bloom poorly or not at all). You can remove them from the pots and plant them anywhere in sun. They are tough, healthy, disease resistant, multiply readily, and have an enormous color range. They are upright, outfacing or pendant but, and for some this is important, they have no scent. They don’t need mulch. In fact, I find that I can leave them in their pots and put them in the rear of my unheated garage in the winter, under a quilt, and with just a bit of water once a month, they not only survive but multiply!

This is the asiactic lilium ‘Royal Sunset’. This is one that has been in a pot for three years, and for which I use, each year, the overwintering technique I described above.

However, there is newer development. There are Asiatics with some longiflorum “blood” that are significantly hardier than longiflorums (which can be temperamental in zones as cold as zone 5) and bloom early, along with typical asiatics. And these have scent and all of the toughness of standard asiatics. One of the best is ‘Red Alert’. In my garden it opens, with a blast, in mid-June. These are hardy in zones 3-10, and are great for short seasons such as those in very northern climates.

There are many asiatics that open in mid-June. But there is also a very special lilium that blooms at that time: Lilium candidum, the Madonna lily. This astounding plant has been in cultivation for over 3,000 years. It is unlike typical lilies in that it prefers alkaline soil, is only planted one inch deep, and is planted much later in the year (around September) and forms foliage in the fall.

In July, the trumpet lilies bloom, along with the longiflorum/orientals crosses (LO’s) of division 5. They are particularly lovely. While the trumpets are tough as nails, the L/O’s are a bit tender, so I mulch them in fall, but it is worth the trouble. The Easter lily is a longiflorum, but blending them with Orientals makes them more cold resistant. The one pictured is ‘Prince Promise” which blooms a little earlier than the orientals. The picture shows Prince Promise, an L/O, at the top in full bloom. The bottom lily is the Oriental ‘Sorbonne’ which is next in the bloom sequence. ‘Sorbonne blooms for weeks after ‘Prince Promise fades. By combining the lilies from different divisions (Orientals are division 7) you can get many weeks of bloom.

I didn’t forget division 6! Those are trumpet lilies. I love them personally, but they are less popular because of a lily I will mention shortly, Orienpets.

Trumpet lilies are highly scented, with large flowers and great refinement. Some are downfacing, and other outfacing. They are my personal favorites. This is Emerald Temple. It is out of commerce, so I am actually growing it from seed! For me, they bloom in July.

Oriental lilies are probably the best known of the older lilies. There are sometimes complaints (I made them in my early years) that they did not return. There is a reason. Some Orientals are very tolerant of alkaline soil, like ‘Sorbonne’ above, and will bloom, although they will be shorter, but to insure full growth and reliable return, oriental lilies need acid soil. I acidify my soil by using a iron based fertilizer or supplement in the planting hole or on top. Just a bit does the trick. I often wonder why sellers of lilies do not include this vital piece of advice. I will bet that some of the readers of this article planted oriental lilies that never returned. That was certainly my experience. Once I acidified them, I not only reaped a nice harvest but my bulbs multiplied.

Probably the best known oriental lilies are ‘Stargazer’ and ‘Casablanca’, but two more glorious lilies are out there. Lilium auratum is from Japan. It MUST be acidified. But I have found that it returns well and multiples nicely. This is an oriental that is also a species lily.

If you want a very different experience, grow lilium auratum platyphyllum, the gold band lily. It is described as both division 7 lily and a species lily. It requires acidification, but the results are stellar.

Orienpets are the newest, hottest lilies. Orienpets are Oriental/Temple crosses. The description from the B&D Lily website says it all:

“These interspecific crosses between Oriental and Trumpet lilies have produced lily bulbs that easily weather late Midwestern frosts without bud kill, but have the sweet fragrance and shape of Oriental lilies. These improved hybrids have all been trialed under garden conditions, so now you can have solid yellow “Orientals” for late summer, with increased drought-resistance and reliability.”

They can grow easily in zones 4 through 8, and can become quite tall. At first, they were very expensive, because a small and special group of hybridizers developed them. The most popular over the years has been ‘Silk Road”. I love putting them in shrubs or baptisia because the stem is thick.

My personal favorite orienpet is ‘Anastasia’ which is a gorgeous, refined and incredibly strong lily. It is downfacing, but in my new garden it also grows about six feet tall, so you can look up at its incredible beauty. Here it is with ‘Crystal Blanca’. ‘Crystal’ is sold as an improved version of Casa Blanca with a stronger stem. The sales pitch is true. I inadvertently planted these two together, but it also shows the virtues of mixing lilies yourself. They bloom in late summer, and because orienpets have lots of buds, they bloom for weeks. They are also tough as nails.

For truly extended bloom look no further than lilium speciosum, which blooms into September in my zone. They are often planted in spring but bloom along with other lilies, just later in the season. A very special speciosum is ‘Uchida’ which was chose by the gentleman of that name. Truly exotic, is is in fact widely available. It has tons of secondary blooms, allowing it to bloom for many weeks, and, in my climate, into October.

And, just for fun, if you want lilies that bloom into October, you can easily grow them from seed. I found a seed on a web site called Lilium ‘White Lancer’. It is a “formolongi” which is a longiflorum formosanum (tender lily) cross. If you sow the seed in January it blooms in fall. Here is a picture of lilium ‘White Lancer’ that I grew years ago. I would place it in a pot to grow, and take the pot indoors for winter, keeping it in the basement, giving it a bit of water from time to time, and each spring dug up more and more bulbs to add to my late season lilies. if you can grow annuals from seed indoors you can grow this beauty.

I hope that this article gives those of you who would like to extend your lily seasons the confidence to jump in and extend your season of color in your garden.

When Oriental lilies are in bloom, they quickly become the center of attention in a garden. With their exquisite blossoms and exotic fragrance, they truly add a wow factor wherever they’re planted.

From their appearance, you’d think they’re tricky to grow but nothing could be farther from the truth. Grown from large bulbs, they’re hardy down to U.S. Department of Agriculture zone 4, come in breathtaking colors and require virtually no care. To top it off, they’re perennials so they’ll come back year after year, and the bulbs will multiply over time.

This is the perfect time to plant Oriental lily bulbs. There are three things to remember when deciding where to plant them: it should be a sunny spot that gets some afternoon shade, the soil needs to be well-drained and it should be where you will easily be able to view their gorgeous flowers.

When planting the bulbs, dig an 8-inch-deep hole and sprinkle a little bulb fertilizer in it. Place the bulb in the hole and replace the soil. There should be about 5 inches of soil above the top of the bulb. A planting of three to five bulbs, spaced 8 to 12 inches apart, makes an attractive display.

The plants will reach anywhere from 24 to 48 inches in height, depending on the cultivar. Since the stems are very sturdy, only the tallest plants will need staking.

Oriental lilies come in a wide variety of colors. Some of the most popular are: Casa Blanca (pure white), Stargazer (fuchsia color with red freckles), Salmon Star (pale orange with white edges), Muscadet (white with pink freckles), Mona Lisa (pink with magenta freckles), Miss Lucy (pale pink double) and Virginale (white petals with yellow stripes down the middle).

Flowering occurs in late summer, which is perfect timing since many perennials will have stopped blooming by then.

If you cut some of the flower stalks for an arrangement, be sure to remove the bright orange anthers first. They are covered with pollen that will stain whatever it touches, including the tip of your nose as you bend forward to breathe in the flower’s intoxicating fragrance.

After the blooms fade, clip them off of the tops of the plants. In the fall or early spring, it’s safe to cut the old foliage down to the ground.

Some of you may have heard of the Oriental trumpet lily – also known as an Orienpet – which is a hybrid between Oriental and trumpet lilies. The flowers have the fabulous fragrance of the Orientals and more heat tolerance.

Lilies have few pests. If you notice any aphids on the flower buds, hose them off with a strong jet of water. While I’ve never had problems with deer eating any of my lilies, I’ve heard it’s still a possibility. There are repellants on the market to help keep the deer away.

Susan Mulvihill can be reached via email at [email protected] her blog at susansinthegarden.blogspot.com for more gardening information, tips and events.

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