Olive tree leaves turning yellow

What Would Cause Branches on My Pear Tree to Turn Brown and Die Back?

It sounds as though your pear tree has fire blight, a bacterial disease that can infect trees during bloom or during the growing season. It’s more severe during warm, wet weather. Symptoms include brown or black leaves that cling on the tree. The tips of branches often curl into a shepherd’s crook. In severe cases, the entire tree may be killed.

In addition to pears, other members of the rose family-apple—such as crabapple, pyracantha, and cotoneaster—are susceptible. Control can be difficult. Avoid pruning susceptible trees and shrubs during the growing season. Open wounds provide an entry point for the bacteria. However, if the disease gets started, pruning out affected branches can stop its spread. Prune 8-12 inches below the blackened area. Sterilize your pruning tool between each cut by dipping the cutting mechanism in a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach to 9 parts water.

To prevent metal parts from corroding, rinse tools thoroughly with water before putting them away. Avoid fertilizing your pear tree. It may be getting excess nutrients from lawn fertilizer applied nearby. Succulent growth from high-nitrogen fertilizer is more susceptible to fire blight attack.

Pear Tree Issues – Tips On Fixing Pear Tree Problems

If you have an orchard with pear trees, expect to encounter pear tree diseases and pear tree insect problems. The two are related, since insects can spread or facilitate other pear tree issues. As a gardener, you can prevent many problems with pears by appropriate spraying and pruning. Read on for more information about fixing pear tree problems.

Pear Tree Diseases

Several pear tree diseases can attack your trees. Since these tend to occur in a regular sequence, you can anticipate them and take protective action where possible.

Fire blight

The most devastating problems with pears come from a disease called fire blight, caused by the bacterium Erwinia amylovora. The bacteria can remain in the area over the winter in fallen fruit or new shoots. With the spring warmth, it multiplies rapidly and you’ll see a liquid oozing from tree tissues. Insects carry this ooze to blossoms and infect them in turn.

The key to controlling fire blight is sanitation. Fixing pear tree problems with fire blight requires that you remove all old fruit and fallen foliage from the orchard. Prune back wounded or cankered branches – at least 8 inches below the problem area – and burn or dispose of them during winter. If you are just installing pear trees, look for cultivars with some resistance to this disease.

Fabraea leaf spot

Other common diseases that damage pear trees include Fabraea leaf spot, caused by the fungus Fabraea maculate. Keep a look out for dark spots on leaves that then yellow and fall. Cankers appear on fruits too, and cause them to crack.

Again, sanitation is essential to controlling this disease. Removal and disposal of all fallen leaves significantly reduces the chance that your pears will get leaf spot. Fungicide spray can also help control the disease.

Pear scab

Pear scab, like apple scab, is caused by the fungus Venturia pirina. You’ll see circular, velvety dark spots on the tree’s leaves, fruit, and twigs. Over time, they turn gray and cracked. Since the fungus lasts out the winter on dead leaves, sanitation is again critical. Fungicide sprays are also effective.

Sooty blotch

If you see sooty smudges on the pear fruit, your tree may have another one of the most common pear tree diseases, sooty blotch, which is also common in apples. It is caused by the fungus Gloeodes pomigena. The blotches occur when the weather is wet or humid, but they can be washed off with soap and water. Good air circulation helps prevent this disease, so cut back grass and nearby shrubs.

Fungicides like februm or thiophanate methyl are often effective for sooty blotch. These are also effective for scab and leaf spot.

Pear Tree Insect Problems

The codling moth is one of the most serious pear tree insect problems. They lay eggs on the fruit, and the larvae bore into the fruit as they develop. Insecticides effective against this pest include carbaryl, malathion, gamma-cyhalothrin, bifenthrin, acetamiprid, and spinos.

Another of the most common pear tree insect problems is called pear psylla. Again, these are insects that lay eggs on the pear trees. The hatching nymphs attack fruit and foliage, secreting a sweet liquid termed honeydew. Aphids and ants are attracted to the honeydew, so their presence is a sign that your tree may have the disease. Infected leaves can look burned and fall from the trees.

Fixing pear tree problems involving pear psylla involves using dormant oil sprays during the tree’s dormancy. This winter spray also smothers other insect-related problems with pears, such as infestation by pear-leaf blister mites. These can also cause ornamental pear tree issues. Oil applications every seven days can also reduce spider mite infections.

Problems with an olive tree…….. there are actually none, but ….the following text deals with problems and their solutions.

Cycloconium Oleaginum

It is not really a disease but a result of wet and humid weather or in combination with a lack of sunshine (hours). The tree can also suddenly gets too much water instead of a regular bit. Some olive trees here are more sensitive than others. Not only the ground may be too wet, but also the moisture in the air is of importance.

The tree will not die instantly. The oldest leaves fall out first. These leaves are generally close to the trunk to the mid line (starting from the trunk). When the leaves fall one often sees areas and holes. The key is to pay attention to water management. Real progress will only be seen in the spring, when warmer, drier and there is more sunshine.

The soil should never be too wet. The question you must ask is: can water easily get out of the pot and has the pot itself sufficient holes. Therefore, place some shards and / or hydro granules on the bottom of the pot so the holes always stay open.
If the opportunity presents itself, the olive tree can be put in a sunny place under cover. So there is no abundant rain water into the pot. (do not let the soil become too dry). In addition, the tree should really absorb enough sunlight. The tree grows best when placed on the south in the sun.

Some other problems

An olive tree is an easy tree yet there are signs that you can see that he is not felling well. If the olive leaves begin to curl or turn yellow and begin to fall, or the fruit starts to shrivel, then the olive tree to dry.

When the leaves turn yellow with spots and fall off the olive tree suffers from a fungus in the roots. The earth around the roots is too moist at that time. Presumably, the water can not escape easily. The holes in the pot are clogged at the bottom of the pot. A simple solution is to make a hole in the bottom of the pot so the water can leave easily the pot). These fungi can be counteracted by making use of our Healthy Start tablets

Furthermore, mealy bugs and aphids can occur. This can be seen as white ‘froth’ or ‘fluff’ on the leave. Louse are easy to control with pesticides. The Bergerie has different brands. We divide them in 2. Natural and non natural pesticides (Bio Insect Spray, Bayer Pyrethrum, or Bayer Calypso).

The first 2 (Bio Insectspray and Pyrethrum Bayer) should be used on the affected parts on the top and on the lowerside of the leaf. In addition, this must often be repeated one more time after a week. Bayer Calypso works even when it is prayed on just one side.

In order to prevent diseases the bests thing you can do is to make sure that your plant is in good health. Knowing this we (De Bergerie) have composed a package that contains Healthy Start tablets and other organic supplements all in one box.

See all our fertilizer packages

Pests and Diseases

Keeping Olive Trees is straight forward most of the time, however, like most plants they can be affected by pests and diseases. While for the most part your olive tree will be fine growing in the UK, Olive Tree Pests and Diseases can damage even the strongest Olive Trees. Here are our tips for preventing and treating Olive Tree Pests and Diseases.

An Ounce Of Prevention Is Worth A Pound Of Cure

While this is a bit of an old wife’s tale, it is true that prevention is better than a cure when it comes to pest or disease. If your Olive Tree picks up a nasty pest, you could spend a lot of time (and money) trying to remove all traces. So if your plants in good condition, you should be able to avoid any major problems. To do this, we recommend you follow the tips:

1) Keep your Olive Tree well fed

This isn’t essential but will help prevent disease. Just add a bit of liquid feed or mix in some fish blood and bone to the soil occasionally and there will be plenty of nutrients for you Olive Tree to fight of disease.

2) Keep the soil moist

To keep an Olive Tree healthy, it needs a to have moist soil. This doesn’t mean you need to water frequently as too much water can kill an Olive Tree. Instead, dig a couple of inches into the soil to see if the soil is moist enough. If it’s dry, give it a good water. Just make sure there is enough drainage for the excess water to escape.

3) Prune your olive tree

Although olive trees grow slowly, it is very important to prune. Pinching out young shoots can encourage growth and help the Olive tree to remain strong and healthy. In the late Spring and early Summer, make sure that branches are thinned out to allow light into the centre of the Olive tree however, if pruning is to hard it may hinder fruit/ crop production.

4) Give it some sunshine

Olive Trees love sunlight. The more you can give them, the better! This will not only keep your tree healthy, this will also keep the foliage dry, which will help prevent mildews and fungus building up.

5) Act quickly

If you do spot something, look it up or seek advice. You’ll see some common issues below but if you’re not sure, it’s best to ask someone.

6) Remove diseased fruit

If you spot anything out of the ordinary, with your fruit, your best off removing the offending fruit and discarding it. Keeping the height of your tree down by removing the crown can help with this.

Common Olive Tree Pests

Woolly Aphid

Woolly Aphids can be a bit of a problem for Olive Trees and we have seen increased numbers in recent years. The Aphids themselves aren’t too much of a bother to Olive Trees but they do cause damage to the bark as they feed on sap. This can leave your tree open to infection and damage from frost. Fortunately, treating Woolly Aphids is easily done. Just wash the bark with a washing-up liquid & water mixture. This should remove the problem without much fuss. There are also several chemical treatments for Woolly Aphids.

Scale insects

Scale insects feed on the sap on the Olive tree. The scale insects are noticeable themselves which look like orange/brown discs which can be found on the stems or on the leaves of the olive tree. The first signs may be a yellow colouring on the leaf or/and a sticky residue on the leaf or plant. There are lots of easily accessible chemicals which are available to treat scale insects. It may be that to completely remove scale insects using a spray or oil, the process may need to be repeated especially in the egg-hatching period.

Common Olive Tree Disease

Olive Peacock Spot (AKA Olive Leaf Spot. AKA Bird’s Eye Spot)

Olive Peacock Spot is very common and affects the leaves of olive trees around the world from the UK to Australia. It only attacks olive trees and only affects trees through the growing season. It’s quite easy to ‘spot’ as you’ll see small black spots on the top surface of the leaves. This is actually a lesion produced by the fungus. The fungus can be easily spread by the weather and by insects so is near impossible to contain.

Peacock spot can cause significant loss of Olives. Not so much a problem in the UK, but it can ruin an entire yield in Spain. However, in the worst cases, defoliation can occur which can lead to twig death. As a result, Olive Peacock spot can have server effects on an Olive Tree.

The good news is, it is easily treatable. The best way we know of to treat Peacock spot is to spray your Olive Tree with a copper mixture or fungicide. You should do this in November and then again in February. This should be enough to ensure Peacock spot is kept at bay.

Scab disease

Scab disease can cause sooty, dark spots on the leaves, premature leaf loss, aborted blossoms and shrivelled/ scabbed fruit. The most common symptom is purple to dark brown ring spots (with a green centre) on the leaves, followed by yellow and defoliation leaves. Scab disease favours wet weather in the Spring and Summer. There are several ways to control scab disease, some non-chemical approaches include, remove fallen, scab-affected leaves from the bottom of the plant overwinter. Prune out affected shoots and remain a general pruning to encourage a good air circulation which will enhance rapid drying of the foliage after rainfall. There are chemical alternatives to help treat scab disease although these cannot be used on edible crops.

Verticuillium Wilt, Phytophora Root Rot and Honey fungus

Verticuillum Wilt, Phytophora root rot and Honey fungus are sometimes the result of water-logging and poor drainage. Symptoms include wilting, yellow or dying foliage and branch die back. . This is the outcome of a poor root system, as the roots cannot provide the olive tree with the nutrients which are required. Thankfully, this can be easily prevented through good soil drainage, additionally ensure when re-potting or planting an olive tree that the soil used is not infected as this can spread the disease to your olive tree. Also keep an eye on weeds as they can also spread the disease. No chemical controls can be provided to help with root rotting or fungus, the best piece of advice is to ensure there is good drainage.

Olive tree loses leaves – causes of yellow leaves + the solution

The Content Of The Article:

  • lack of light
  • An excess of wetness
    • First stage: Repot
    • Second stage: pour properly using a moisture meter
  • nutrient deficiency
  • Summer drought stress
  • fungal diseases

If an olive tree puzzles its gardener, it is mostly loss of leaves. Especially in winter, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. This reaction results from various causes that disrupt the Mediterranean tree, leading to this drastic survival strategy. Consequently, such a damage image should be perceived as an alarm signal, which requires immediate action. The following analysis highlights common causes of yellow leaves and provides helpful guidance for solving the problem.

lack of light

Solution: Relocate or illuminate with plant lamps
In their natural ranges along the Mediterranean, olive trees can enjoy the sun for 12 hours or more. Then the plants have adapted to their growth. This claim remains unchanged for Olea europaea from local nurseries. North of the Alps, the reduced hours of sunshine are thus a common problem for the Mediterranean ornamental and fruit trees. As long as they are on the south-facing summer balcony, the evergreen leaves remain in place. At the latest in light-poor winter quarters, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. The higher the temperatures around room, the more drastic the leaf fall. To correct the problem:

  • Place the bucket in a sunny spot with temperatures between 5 and 10 degrees Celsius
  • Under the influence of temperatures of more than 10 degrees to compensate for the increased light requirements with plant lamps
  • Light the olive tree daily for at least 8 to 10 hours

Conventional lamps are not ideal for the desired effect. Therefore, access special lights with a red-blue light spectrum and a power of 14 to 15 watts. Optimum light output is provided by a lampshade with reflector coating. If there is uncertainty as to whether the amount of light is sufficient to stop the leaf fall, investing in a light meter makes sense. This device calculates the amount of light per square meter in lux. For your olive tree, this value should be at least 2,000 lux during a cool winter.

Tip: Leafless olive branches do not automatically mean that the shoot has died. Before you reach for the scissors in the spring, please carry out a vitality test. From the bare branch a piece of bark is scraped off. If there is green tissue underneath, the young leaves will not be long in coming.

An excess of wetness

Solution: Repot and style-conform
In the late winter and early spring, the complaints about leaf fall on the olive tree are piling up in the Mediterranean garden. Now is punished to abundant watering in winter quarters. Under certain circumstances, the temperatures already allowed the Auswinterung, however, comes spring with massive rains therefore. While the flood of water can seep through the well-drained real olive tree in the permeable soil, it does not run off in the bucket or not quickly enough. The sun is not intense enough at this time of the year, so that an excess of moisture can evaporate quickly. Under these conditions, yellow, deciduous leaves are preprogrammed. In two stages, you help your olive tree return to its evergreen leaves dress:

First stage: Repot

If the olive tree has not fully rooted the bucket, you can use the container again. In this case, please check exactly if there are sufficiently large openings in the floor as drainage. A new pot should be no larger than 4 to 6 cm in diameter. As a substrate, we recommend a loose mixture of 3 parts of compost, 2 parts of coconut or wood fibers and 1 part of vital lime. Adding a few handfuls of sand optimizes the permeability of the earth. Here’s how to make a good pot:

  • Pull out the soaked root ball to completely remove the soil
  • Soften, cut off rotten root cuttings
  • The bottom opening in the pot cover with a drainage of potsherds, chippings or expanded clay balls
  • Cover the water-bearing layer with an air- and water-permeable fleece

Now fill in the bucket with enough substrate so that the root disk is at the end about 3 cm below the edge of the vessel. Then put the root ball and fill the cavities with soil. First, place the olive tree in a partially shaded place for one week, where it can regenerate. Then choose a sunny and rain sheltered place to prevent waterlogging due to too much rain.

Second stage: pour properly using a moisture meter

If waterlogging has triggered yellow leaves and loss of leaves, the pimping action in this special case does not end in an abundant casting. Since the crown stands without leaves, there is hardly any evaporation. At least during the regeneration phase, the water requirement in the olive tree is still covered.Use this time to purchase a simple moisture meter. This device now makes it easy to decide when and how much to water your olive tree. The probe is inserted into the substrate. The integrated scale indicates whether the soil is wet, semi-dry or dehydrated. How to water conform:

  • The moisture meter signals dry substrate, is poured
  • Slowly pour the normal tap water onto the root disk
  • When the first drops trickle out from under the bucket, the pouring is stopped

In summer, an olive tree is cast much more often than during the winter season. If there is any doubt about whether or not to pour, leave the watering can. Short-term dryness endures a real olive tree easily without it immediately loses its leaves.

nutrient deficiency

Solution: Nitrogen-stressed fertilize
If you cultivate your olive tree planted in the garden, you can exclude this point within the root cause analysis for yellow leaves and leaf fall. Since an Olea europaea rooted up to 7 meters deep in the soil, it gets in normal garden soil at any time under nutrient deficiency. In contrast, keeping in the bucket requires regular nutrient supply since the available substrate volume is very limited. At the following indications, limit nutrient deficiency from cause:

  • The leaves turn flat yellow
  • There are no other changes, such as necrosis or crippling
  • It is a container plant that is not fertilized
  • The affected olive tree has not been repotted for a long time

If these criteria are met, the plant suffers from a lack of nitrogen. This macronutrient is also referred to as the motor of growth because it significantly drives the vegetation of the leaves. A shortage of nitrogen affects the entire metabolism, resulting in yellow leaves that die and fall to the ground. How to solve the problem:

  • Immediately administer a liquid fertilizer for Mediterranean plants
  • Ideally repot the leafless olive tree into fresh substrate
  • In future, fertilize regularly from March to September according to the manufacturer’s instructions
  • Optionally, in March and June administer a slow-release fertilizer

Common nitrogen suppliers for native garden plants, such as blue-grain or Entec, do not meet the special requirements of a true olive tree. Therefore, please use special fertilizer for Mediterranean plants, such as the olive liquid fertilizer from Cuxin, olive fertilizer HIGH-TECH Olea from Green24 or Chrystal fertilizer Mediterranean plants with a duration of 3 months.

Summer drought stress

Solution: diving
The frequent plea to pour only sparingly an olive tree, often lead to drought. In an effort to prevent waterlogging, worried olive growers spend too little in summer. In response, the leaves turn yellow, dry and fall off. If you suspect this cause of the problem, take a close look at the root ball. In doubt, spit out the tree to examine the condition of the earth. If the suspicion proves to be justified, proceed as follows:

  • Fill a bucket or tub with normal tap water
  • Immerse the parched root ball in it until no more air bubbles rise
  • Water a planted olive tree with the garden hose for at least 10 minutes

Immediately modify the water supply so that you water the olive tree in a well-dried soil in a timely manner. A moisture meter ideally replaces the thumb sample with more reliable results.

fungal diseases

Solution: Remove sick leaves and treat with fungicides
If an olive tree suffers from too much moisture, fungal diseases are not far away. In particular, the spores of ophthalmopathy, Spilocaea oleaginea, lurk on weakened Olea europaea. This infection is the most common cause of the one leaf fall in the summer. Characteristic symptoms are round, bright spots with dark margins that spread on the yellowing foliage. If this disease is not stopped, the tree stands there in a short time in the middle of the summer. How to proceed professionally:

  • All of the infected leaves should be picked off and disposed of in the household waste
  • Collect already fallen leaves to prevent further spreading
  • Treat the olive tree with a copper preparation, such as Atempo Copper-Mushroom-Free from Neudorff

The fungus infection Mycocentrospora cladosporioides, which makes life difficult for farmers in many olive plantations, has similar symptoms. Sometimes the pathogens are introduced via import into nurseries, so that especially young olive trees lose their leaves due to this. Here the experience has shown that the removal of the infected, yellow leaves can already stop the disease process, without you having to resort to fungicides. This is at least true if less than 30 percent of the leaves have the disease symptoms.
Tip: Growth with evergreen foliage does not imply that the individual leaves of the olive tree have leased eternal life. Rather, their life is limited to 2 to 3 years. If individual leaves turn yellow and fall off, this is a natural process that requires no countermeasures.
If your olive tree loses its leaves, this is a legitimate cause for concern. This alarm signal indicates that the Mediterranean characters are fighting for their survival. Since there are manifold causes behind the damage pattern, it is only a decided analysis that shows what countermeasures are required. Most common triggers for the dilemma are lack of light, waterlogging, nutrient deficiency, drought stress and disease. Immediate solutions to these problems can be found here. If the rescue operation leads to a kind-appropriate care, your afflicted olive tree regenerates quickly and sets in scene with the usual lush, evergreen leaves dress.

Video Board: Citrus Leaf Drop My First Crisis.

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