Mold on green beans

Unsightly mold in houseplant soil is the cause of much unhappiness for indoor plant lovers. Thankfully, there is no real need to fear, as mold in indoor plant soil is usually harmless and you can get rid of it with a few easy and highly-effective methods.

How to get rid of mold in houseplant soil:

  • Repot the plant in sterile potting soil
  • Dry out your potting soil in direct sunlight
  • Remove mold from the plant and spray with a fungicide
  • Add a natural anti-fungal to your houseplant soil
  • Repot new plants immediately into sterile soil

While mold in houseplant soil won’t harm your plant, it is often a sign of a problem in the way you are caring for your plant. This article will show you the best ways to get rid of this ugly fungal growth and prevent it from coming back for good.

What Is Houseplant Mold And What Is Its Function?

The harmless white mold is a type of Saprophytic Fungus and is an organism that feeds off and helps to break down organic material. It uses the carbon it gets from organic material to grow and develop. And this is essentially why it likes to turn your damp houseplant soil into a breeding ground.

It is particularly prone to living and feeding off houseplants that are consistently damp or moist, so that should be your first concern. Damp houseplant soil – fix it!

5 Ways To Get Rid Of Mold Growing In Your Houseplant’s Soil

Getting rid of mold is not a particularly difficult task, if you know what to do. Most people see mold and assume that it means the end for their plant, but it’s really not. Mold usually grows for a number of common reasons such as overwatering, poor drainage, and sometimes even using soil with soggy decaying organic matter or previously contaminated soil.

If your plants already have mold, growing on the soil, it is too late to start preventative care, but it’s not too late to start reversing the situation. First, you have to rid the soil of the mold and then you can start creating an environment that is uncomfortable for mold to grow. You can get rid of the unsightly white mold in your plant’s soil in the following 5 ways.

1. Repot The Plant To Get Rid Of Mold

If you are not willing to try to remedy the mold problem yourself, you might want to eliminate the problem completely, in one fell swoop. You can repot the plant in fresh, sterile soil and ensure that the old contaminated soil no longer forms part of the equation.

Simply remove your houseplant from its pot, clean the container out (you can even give the container a light spray with fungicide) and then refill the container with fresh sterile soil.

Alternatively, to completely remove any remaining mold spores, you can soak the container in a solution of 9 parts water and 1-part liquid bleach, for around 10 minutes. Thereafter, simply rinse the pot out with regular dishwashing liquid and water. Once the container/pot has dried, you can fill it with soil and repot your houseplant.

Before replanting your houseplant, make sure that you have rinsed off the root system and cleaned the mold off the leaves. If any mold spores remain, you could end up with recontamination. You might want to spray the plant with a mild fungicide before repotting it too. Once you have repotted the plant you will need to ensure that you prevent mold growth by implementing a better watering and care routine.

2. Dry Out Your Potting Soil In Direct Sunlight To Eliminate Mold Spores

As damp soil is a dream come true for mold, you need to ensure that your houseplants don’t remain too wet, consistently. Drying out the soil is a good step in the right direction – and for that you can use natural sunlight. Ultraviolet rays from sun kills mold.

There are two ways to dry out your potting soil using the sunlight. The first method is to simply move your plant to a sunny spot outside so that the sun’s rays can do their work. Mold is not a fan of sunshine and because mold is usually found just on the surface of the soil, it can work just fine in non-severe cases. You could even scoop off the top layer of soil where the mold is growing, and discard it, before placing the houseplant in the sun for a bit.

Another method is to remove the plant carefully from its container and then spread the soil out in a very sunny spot. This is a good idea if your houseplant is sensitive to direct sun exposure. This allows for the sun to deal with the mold without burning or drying out your houseplant.

While the soil is spread out in the sun, you can even spray it over with a mixture of water and baking soda. Baking soda will help draw out and absorb the moisture from the mold and will also help to keep it at bay in future.

3. Remove Mold From The Plant And Spray With A Fungicide

If the plant is contaminated with mold, it will keep contaminating the soil that it grows in, especially if it is consistently damp. Removing the mold by hand is a good first step.

Mold is usually only found on the surface of the soil, so you can gently scoop the top layer of the contaminated soil out of the pot.

Then, proceed to remove the mold from the actual plant. You can wipe the plant down with a damp kitchen towel or cloth a few times until there is no sign of mold on the plant.

The next step is to further protect the plant and soil by applying a fungicide to the plant. If you do not want to buy a chemical fungicide and prefer to consider more natural routes, you can opt for using Potassium Bicarbonate mixed with water. This is an organic fungicide and works well with white mold spores. Simply spray this solution generously over the plant and on the surface of the potting soil.

4. Add A Natural Anti-Fungal To Your Houseplant Soil

Sometimes soil needs a helping hand to keep mold and fungus at bay. It can be hard if you live in a cold or damp area, but by simply adding a natural anti-fungal to the soil, you can help the situation.

What natural anti-fungal options do you have? Some great natural anti-fungal options include cinnamon, apple cider vinegar, and baking soda. None of these products will harm your houseplant.

You can mix these into your soil mix or simply sprinkle them on the top surface of the houseplant’s soil – you don’t need to put too much in either. A couple of sprinkles or spoons per houseplant, is more than enough.

5. Repot New Houseplants immediately With Sterile Soil To Get Rid Of Mold Contamination

When you buy new houseplants or receive them as gifts, you will undoubtedly be eager to get them into their new positions, decorating and adding a bit of color to your home.

Unfortunately, as a new plant that you didn’t grow from seed yourself, you don’t really know what they have been exposed to and where the original potting soil came from.

The soil that your new plant or seedling has been growing in could already be contaminated with mold spores. To ensure that your plant does not introduce mold to the rest of your plants or suffer a worsening case of mold contamination, you can repot the new plant immediately into fresh, sterile soil. You can also use soil that you have mixed yourself and exposed to sufficient direct sunlight.

Discard the potentially contaminated soil without allowing it to come into contact with your other plants. You can also spray down the new plant with fungicide or a solution of baking soda and water, before introducing the plant to other houseplant areas.

6 Tips To Prevent Mold In Houseplants

Prevention is always better than trying to cure mold in houseplant soil. A healthy plant and soil can do well for many months. It can take just one small change to your schedule – such as going away on holiday and hiring someone to care for your home who overwaters your plants – to suddenly bring about mold growth.

It is therefore important to ensure that your houseplants are kept in the best possible condition to minimize the risk of mold contamination. You can do the following to keep mold in houseplant soil at bay:

1. Adjust Your Watering Schedule

Your watering schedule can determine just how vulnerable your houseplant soil is to mold growth. It is all too easy to walk around with your watering can topping up all the houseplants at the same time.

Unfortunately, this is not the best watering schedule, as each plant will have different water requirements. Overwatering plants is the number one cause of mold growth in indoor plant soil – and this is because a soggy growing medium encourages growth of mold and fungi.

Prompt attention is required when you realize that you have been overwatering your plants. When the houseplant’s soil is showing mold growth and you pay no attention, the damp can lead to serious damage such as root rot.

To prevent this from happening, only water your houseplants when the top layer of soil is dry. Do a touch test to check that the top of the soil is dry before watering. You can do this by pushing your finger into the soil. If the top two inches of soil is dry, you can safely water the plant.

This is a general rule of thumb and not the case for every plant, as some plants like their soil to dry out completely between watering. As such, it is best to do a bit of research into what your specific plant’s watering needs are.

When you water your houseplants, allow the water to drain out of the drainage holes. Make sure that you empty the plate beneath the pot after a few minutes too. This ensures that the plant doesn’t sit in excess water, which will keep the soil overly damp and lead to root rot and mold growth.

Watering indoor plants is one of the most important aspects of houseplant care. Over watering and under watering are the cause of so many problems with houseplant care. Read my article which covers everything you need to become an expert at watering indoor plants.

2. Bright Light Will Prevent Mold In Houseplant Soil

It is no secret that mold likes dark damp places. By brightening up the space where your houseplants are positioned, you can keep mold under control.

Some houseplants do not like too many hours of direct sunlight, so make sure you know what your specific houseplant’s lighting needs are before exposing it to too much sun. Place your houseplants in a bright room with decent natural indirect sunlight.

Open the blinds or curtains during the day and position the plants near the windows. To help the soil, you can position your houseplants so that the sun shines on the soil, for a certain amount of time each day.

3. Ensure The Potting Mix And Pot Drain Sufficiently

Even if you develop a healthy watering pattern, if the soil holds water or if the pot doesn’t have drainage holes, you are going to run into wet soil problems and eventually mold growth.

It is important to plant your houseplants into well-draining soil and to make sure that the pot or container used has sufficient drainage holes. If the water can drain out of the pot correctly, there is less chance of mold finding the potting medium suitable for growth.

4. Remove Debris From Houseplant Soil

Mold often grows when the surface of the soil remains damp for an extended period of time. When dead leaves and twigs fall from your plant, they typically lie on the surface of the potting soil and keep the soil beneath it damp.

This is a prime growing environment for white mold. To minimize this possibility, cut dead leaves off the plant and trim stems regularly too. If any do fall from your plant, make sure that you remove and discard them quickly.

5. Increase Ventilation To Prevent Mold Growth

Mold does not like good air circulation very much and will certainly find a darker and damper place to go, if your houseplants are in a well ventilated room.

Note that a well ventilated room is not a drafty room. Some houseplants do not like drafts and changes in temperature, which can happen in a drafty room – therefore, this is not the type of air circulation you need. Position your plants in a room with good airflow or make use of a basic oscillating fan on a low/slow setting every few days.

6. Seal And Discard Old Potting Soil

Unfortunately, you cannot hold onto bags of potting soil forever. If you have open bags of potting soil in your garden shed or outside, you can expect pathogens such as fungi, and insects to find their way into it. When you repot new plants with it, they can become contaminated with the mold or fungus that’s now living in the soil.

Sealing your potting medium bags tightly is essential to ensure that the contents are protected. That being said, potting soil should only be kept for 1 to 2 years – and no longer. After this time, it starts to break down and loses its ability to retain moisture while draining correctly.

Last Word

Getting rid of mold in houseplant soil is not too difficult, but having mold in the first place can be a sign of other problems with your plant. Follow the tips in this article to get rid of mold in houseplant soil and take the time to adjust conditions to keep your plants healthy and happy.

How to Get Rid of Mold in a Greenhouse

Using bleach & fungicides to get rid of mold

You also have the option of a more aggressive treatment using bleach. ONLY use bleach if you’re sure that it will be far enough from the plants that they won’t come in contact with it. Bleach would kill a plant even quicker than the mold, not to mention the harm it would cause to the beneficial insects.

Fungicides are another harsh treatment option that can be utilized to remove mold from plants. However, not all plants will be able to fully recover, even after the mold is eradicated. All of this is to say that hydrogen peroxide and/or vinegar seem to give the best results with the lowest possible risk.

Preventing Mold

When it comes to keeping mold out of your greenhouse, the best approach is prevention. It doesn’t matter how meticulously you clean existing mold if you don’t change the conditions that allowed it to grow in the first place.

There are a handful of key prevention methods. Whether or not you’ve yet to have a problem with mold, these steps are important to follow. If you have had a problem with mold before, the long-term fix will be accomplished in making changes to one or more of these areas.

Water & humidity

By far, the most crucial part of keeping your greenhouse mold-free is avoiding water accumulation, both on plants and the building’s surfaces, and preventing the humidity from getting too high.

Most plants require a humidity level around 50 to 60 percent, and most molds survive best near 85 percent. Keep the humidity level as low as possible while still preserving the needs of the plants. One way to control this is by installing a dehumidifier.

Also, be careful not to over-water your plants. If there’s too much for the plants to drink up, the mold will kindly offer to do so.

To avoid standing/stagnant water on your plants, water them earlier in the day rather than later. Photosynthesis, which is the main way plants use water, will only occur when the sun is out. Mold, on the other hand, requires no light to flourish, so it’s best to limit the amount of water that sits in plants overnight.

Occasionally use a rag or sponge to wipe down the surfaces of the greenhouse where condensation builds up–and don’t forget to check for moisture on the floors. And, finally, if there are any leaks, make sure they are properly fixed, and that any water-damaged areas are repaired.

Ventilation & air purification

If you had mold in your greenhouse once, some microscopic spores are probably still present in the air. Once a spore settles, more will start to grow. In order to destroy those tiny nuisances, you should set up an air purifier in your greenhouse that specifically kills mold spores. The clean, dry inside should keep new cultures from forming out of the old ones.

In the same vein, you want to keep the air circulating to outside the greenhouse. Ventilation is already important in helping to regulate temperature, but it’s also needed to keep fresh, healthy air coming in and the dirty (and moldy) air going out.

So, open your vents and add fans, if needed. Keep the air moving.


Spores can spread through air, water, and by direct touch. For this reason, the prevention of mold can be aided by keeping plants spaced a few feet apart from each other and not letting the leaves of various plants become entangled. This is good for the plants, too, because it supports air circulation, sun exposure, and a quicker drying time after watering.

Likewise, remember to clip and thin plants when they start to look overgrown.


There’s nothing that can’t be helped by some good, old-fashioned cleanliness. Clean the floors, walls, and surfaces of your greenhouse as the material it’s made out of allows. If you want to take the extra step, it can’t hurt to occasionally clean surfaces with hydrogen peroxide or vinegar.

Don’t let dirt or water build in any equipment you use, either. Mold will find its way into potting soil and then to the plants, if given the opportunity. Wipe down gardening tools after use and take cuttings or any trash out sooner rather than later.

Mold vs. Other Plant Diseases

Sometimes a plant may appear to be affected by mold, but is actually infected with bacteria or a virus. If you notice rotting, yellowing flowers or leaves, damping off, or strange-colored blotches without also seeing patches of mold, you’re likely dealing with a type of bacteria or virus.

While various kinds of mold often have huge ranges of possible hosts, many other plant diseases are specific to certain families, such as the clubroot afflicting plants in the cabbage family and aster yellows appearing on flowering plants.

Preventing plant diseases is much like preventing mold:

  • Rotate crops,
  • keep out the bad bugs, and
  • make sure that there aren’t any serious nutrient deficiencies among your plants, which would make them susceptible to pathogens. They need plenty of calcium and nitrogen.

It’s worth noting that when a plant is infected by a fungus or bacteria, it’s usually because the plant has already been weakened or harmed by something else. Take care of your green babies with lots of love.

And, if you do notice strange symptoms in your plants, default to hydrogen peroxide. In addition to being antifungal, it’s also antibacterial.

Finally, to ensure the well-being of your plants, triple-check the health of new plants before introducing them to your greenhouse. The last thing you want is to let the newcomers ruin all the fun.

Mold On Beans – Troubleshooting Common Bean Plant Diseases

Do you have mold on your bean plants? There are a few common bean plant diseases that may result in a white mold on bean plants. Don’t despair. Read on to learn what to do about moldy bean plants.

Help, There is White Mold on My Bean Plants!

Gray or white mold on beans is an indicator of either a fungus or bacterial infection. Powdery or downy mildew (usually found only on lima beans) is caused by fungal spores that germinate on dry foliage when the humidity is high. Especially common in the late summer and fall, these mildew diseases do not usually kill the plants, but it does stress them, potentially resulting in a lesser crop yield.

To mitigate the possibility of either powdery or downy mildew, avoid water stress, prune out any infected leaves and pods, and keep the garden free of plant detritus. Also, be sure to rotate the bean crop each year.

Mold on bean foliage, stems or pods accompanied by successive rotting is an indicator of mycelium, another fungus abundant in warm weather. This fungi, however, enjoys the accompaniment of water sodden leaves. To avoid this fungal disease, rotate crops, again, remove plant debris, keep the surrounding area free of weeds and increase the space between bean plants to increase air circulation.

Another common bean plant disease is bacterial wilt, which clots up the plant’s circulatory system. This disease is spread by cucumber beetles in moist conditions. Signs of bacterial wilt are leaf droop at onset, followed by the wilting of the entire plant. The presence of the disease can be concretely diagnosed by cutting a stem near the crown and observing the sap; it will be milky colored, sticky and viscous. Once the plant is infected, there is no way of stopping the disease. Remove and destroy infected plants the moment you recognize the symptoms.

Lastly, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum may be the culprit for moldy bean plants. White mold usually begins as wilting of the plants after blossoming. Soon, lesions develop on the infected leaves, stems, branches and pods, ultimately becoming covered by a white fungal growth. White mold is prolific in conditions of high humidity accompanied by wet plant foliage and soil, usually at the end of the growing season.

As with the above diseases, remove any infected parts of the plant or the entire plant if it appears to be severely infected. Water sparingly, enough to keep the plant from being stressed but allowing the soil to dry between watering. Space bean rows farther apart to allow for air circulation, practice crop rotation and, as always, keep rows free of weeds and detritus.

Fungal applications may assist with control of white mold on beans. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for timing, rates and method of application.

Bean, Snap (Phaseolus vulgaris)-White Mold (Sclerotinia Rot)

By C. M. Ocamb and D. H. Gent


Bean, Snap (Phaseolus vulgaris)-Strategies for Controlling White and Gray Mold in the Same Field

Cause The fungus, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, causes white mold. It overwinters as small black structures (sclerotia) in soil. Sclerotia may survive 5 to 8 years in the soil. After a conditioning period of several weeks at 40°F in moist soil, sclerotia can germinate in moist soil when temperatures are 59°F to 65°F and produce a small, stalked, cup-shaped fruiting structure (apothecium; plural: apothecia), which releases millions of spores into the air. Sporulating apothecia can persist 5 to 10 days. Spores are forcibly ejected and a few may be blown up to a mile but most land nearby. Spores can survive two weeks. Under moist conditions, spores may infect senescent tissue such as blossoms and leaves or may germinate and colonize plant debris. After colonizing blossoms or senescing leaves, the fungus can invade any healthy part of the plant it contacts. Moist conditions within the plant canopy favor infection. Rain, dew, and/or irrigation practices that keep foliage wet for long periods favor white mold development.

Most other plants are susceptible, including pea, lettuce, carrot, cabbage, parsnip, potato, sunflower, radish, other crucifers, and cucurbits. Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) is a very susceptible weed host.

Symptoms The first symptom is usually water-soaked lesions on stem and pods. The fungus may invade the stem near the soil line, causing a rapid wilting and death of the entire plant, or it may invade pods or branches and foliage that comes in contact with colonized tissue. When dry, lesions on infected stems and pods are beige to white due to the production of acetic acid by the fungus. They frequently have sclerotia embedded in them both internally and on external surfaces. In addition, infected stem surfaces may be papery where the epidermis separated from underlying tissue. Newly forming sclerotia are white and change to black after several days.

The beige to white lesion on infected stems and the white mold growth and sclerotia on plant parts help distinguish this disease from Pythium blight, with which white mold may be confused.

Sometimes, the presence of white mold in a field may occur as fine cottony wisps of fungal mycelium growing on plant debris on moist soil. However, many other fungi also can colonize debris, so that is not a useful diagnostic character.

Cultural control

  • Reduce humidity and high-moisture periods within the plant canopy and field.
    • Provide adequate aeration within, and especially between, rows by increasing plant and row spacing. This is not always economically feasible.
    • If available and suitable in quality, plant varieties which are more erect and upright or that do not produce excessive foliage near the ground level (open-base types).
    • Orientating the bean rows in the direction of prevailing winds is useful for white mold control if the placement of irrigation equipment allows row orientation.
    • Time irrigations to allow drying of plant canopy before night fall.
    • Avoid excessive irrigation after petal fall.
    • Apply sufficient nitrogen to meet crop demands, but avoid excessive fertilization that can lead to dense, lush plant growth.
  • To reduce pathogen population within a field:
    • Rotate with non-hosts for 8 years to achieve best control, but for at least two years to reduce population of sclerotia; grasses, cereals, and onion are not affected by white mold.
    • Deep plowing buries sclerotia but plowing later years may return viable sclerotia to the surface.
    • Field flooding during warm temperatures destroys sclerotia.
  • A timely harvest with rapid cooling and pod storage at 45°F to 50°F will provide an effective postharvest control.

Chemical control In fields with a history of white mold, apply fungicide at 1% to 10% bloom (that is, 1 to 10% of the plants in the field have at least one open bloom). A second application may be necessary with highly susceptible cultivars or heavy disease pressure.

  • Blocker 4F (Group 14) at 4 pints/A at planting and again on 2- to 3-week intervals when disease is severe. Do not apply after the start of pod formation. Do not feed treated vines to livestock. 12-hr reentry.
  • Botran 75W (Group 14) at 2.25 lb/A for bush variety or 4 lb/A for pole variety on 7-day intervals. Use in the past has shown poor efficacy. 12-hr reentry.
  • Cannonball WP (Group 12) at 7 oz/A when 10% of the plants have at least one (1) open blossom. Preharvest interval is 7 days. 12-hr reentry.
  • Carboxamide (Group 7) formulations are registered for use. Do not make more than two (2) sequential applications before alternating to a labeled fungicide with a different mode of action.
    • Endura at 8 to 11 oz/A at the beginning of flowering and again at full bloom if conditions are favorable for disease or disease is present. Preharvest interval is 7 days. 12-hr reentry.
    • Fontelis at 16 to 30 fl oz/A at the beginning of flowering and again at full bloom if conditions are favorable for disease or disease is present. Preharvest interval is 0 days. 12-hr reentry.
    • Luna Privilege at 6.84 fl oz/A on 14-day intervals. Do not make more than two (2) applications before alternating with a fungicide that has a different mode of action. Do not apply within 14 days of harvest. 12-hr reentry.
  • Iprodione (Group 2) products such as Nevado 4F or Rovral 4 Flowable at 1.5 to 2 pints/A when 10% of plants have at least one open bloom and again 5 to 7 days later or up to peak bloom if conditions are favorable for disease. Not recommended in Idaho due to lower level of control. A 2ee allows reduced rates when specifically tank-mixed: Rovral 4F at 1.5 pints/A with Topsin 4.5FL at 22 fl oz/A. Do not allow foraging for 14 days after last application. 24-hr reentry.
  • Omega 500F (Group 29) at 0.5 to 0.85 pint/A when 10% to 30% of the plants have at least one (1) open blossom and if needed again, 7 to 10 days later. Do not apply within 14 days of harvest. 48-hr reentry or 72-hr reentry for high exposure activities.
  • Regalia (Group P5) at 1 to 4 quarts/A plus another fungicide on 7- to 10-day intervals. Preharvest interval is 0 days. 4-hr reentry. O
  • Switch 62.5WG (Group 12 + 9) at 11 to 14 oz/A. Apply when 10% to 20% of plants have at least one open bloom and again 7 days later. Do not apply within 7 days of harvest. 12-hr reentry.
  • Thiophanate-methyl (Group 1) formulations are very effective on Sclerotinia.
    • T-Methyl 4.5F AG at 30 to 40 fl oz/A. Make first application when 10% to 30% of plants have at least one open bloom and again no earlier than 7 days later. Preharvest interval is 14 days. 12-hr reentry.
    • Topsin 4.5 FL at 30 to 40 fl oz/A for one (1) application or 20 to 30 fl oz/A for two (2) applications. For two (2) applications, make the first application when 10% to 30% of the plants have at least one bloom open and repeat application 4 to 7 days later. For a single application, apply when 100% of the plants have at least one bloom open. A 2ee allows reduced rates when specifically tank-mixed: Rovral 4F at 1.5 pints/A with Topsin 4.5FL at 22 fl oz/A. Preharvest interval is 14 days. 12-hr reentry.
    • Topsin M WSB at 1 to 1.5 lb/A with first application when 10% to 30% of the plants have at least one bloom open and a second application 4 to 7 days later; or Topsin M 70 WP at 1.5 to 2 lb/A as a single application when 100% of the plants have at least one bloom open. Do not apply within 14 days of harvest. 24-hr reentry.

Biological control

  • Amplitude at 2 to 4 quarts/A on 7- to 10-day intervals. Preharvest interval is 0 days. 4-hr reentry. O
  • Contans WG at 1 to 4 lb/A, depending on depth of incorporation, as a preplant or postharvest treatment. Incorporate thoroughly in the top 2 inches of soil. 4-hr reentry. O
  • Double Nickel LC at 0.5 to 6 quarts/A at planting and again at cultivation, can repeat on 10- to 14-day intervals. Can be applied the day of harvest. 4-hr reentry. O
  • Heads Up at 0.035 oz/34 fl oz water/360 lb seed will stimulates pest suppression system of plants. Efficacy unknown. 12-hr reentry. O
  • LifeGard WG (Group P6) at 1 to 4.5 oz/100 gal on 7- to 14-day intervals for activating plant resistance. Refer to label for appropriate rate per application volume. Preharvest interval is 0 days. 4-hr reentry.O
  • Serenade Opti at 14 to 20 lb/A on 7- to 10-day intervals. Applications can be made up to and the day of harvest. 4-hr reentry. H O
  • Stargus at 2 to 4 quarts/A on 7- to 10-day intervals. Gave good control when used in a 2-spray program in studies conducted by Cornell. Preharvest interval is 0 days. 4-hr reentry. O

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