Leaf curl on tomatoes


Tomato Leaves Rolling?

Curling or rolling of tomato leaves can be caused by various factors, including environmental stresses, viral infection, and herbicide damage. To determine which factor is the culprit, it pays to take a close look at the plant(s). Which leaves are rolling – old leaves, new leaves, all leaves? What direction do the leaves roll – upward or downward? Are any other parts of the plant, including fruit, exhibiting symptoms?

Physiological Leaf Roll

Tomato foliage is exhibiting physiological leaf roll.
Joey Williamson, HGIC Clemson University

Excessive moisture and nitrogen, heat, drought, severe pruning, root damage and transplant shock are some of the environmental factors that can cause physiological leaf roll in tomatoes. Initial symptoms are usually apparent in the lower leaves with an upward cupping of leaflets followed by an inward lengthwise rolling of the leaflets toward the mid-vein. The affected leaves tend to become thickened and have a leathery texture, but retain a normal, healthy green color. Over time all of the leaves on the plant may be affected.

Interestingly, vine tomato (indeterminate) varieties tend to exhibit physiological leaf roll more often than bush tomato (determinate) varieties. While this condition can occur at any time of the growing season, it usually occurs as spring weather shifts to summer. The good news is that the condition has minimal impact on tomato fruit production and plant growth. By properly hardening off tomato seedlings before planting in the garden, maintaining a consistent moisture level in the soil, and avoiding over fertilization, excessive pruning and root damage during cultivation, one can go a long way toward preventing tomato plants from developing this physiological problem.

Viral Infections

The tomato is infected with Tomato yellow leaf curl virus and showing symptoms of cupped, pale green foliage.
David B. Langston, University of Georgia, United States

Some viral infections also cause leaf rolling in tomatoes. When tomato plants are infected with Tomato yellow leaf curl virus (transmitted by whiteflies), new leaves become cupped and pale green in color. In addition the entire plant may exhibit stunted growth, yellowing leaf edges, purplish veins on the undersides of leaves, and decline of fruit production. A second virus, Tomato mosaic virus, causes rolling of leaves, but other symptoms, including mottled-coloring of leaves, small leaflets, and internal browning of infected fruit, distinguish it from physiological or herbicide-induced leaf roll.

There is no treatment for virus-infected plants. Removal and destruction of plants is recommended. Since weeds often act as hosts to the viruses, controlling weeds around the garden can reduce virus transmission by insects. As some viruses are transmitted mechanically on garden tools, it also helps to disinfect tools that have come into contact with diseased plants.

Herbicide Damage

Tomato plants are exhibiting damage from exposure to 2,4-D herbicide drift from nearby spraying.
Joey Williamson, HGIC Clemson University

When tomato plants are exposed to the herbicide, 2,4-D, typical symptoms include downward rolling of leaves and twisted growth. In addition, stems may turn white and split; fruit may be deformed. Depending on the level of exposure, the plant may or may not survive.

Herbicide injury cannot be reversed, but if the plant is not killed, new growth may be normal. Always be very careful when spraying an herbicide, as it may drift much further than anticipated.

To learn more about growing healthy tomatoes, as well as common tomato diseases and insect pests, see: HGIC 1323, Tomato; HGIC 2217, Tomato Diseases and HGIC 2218, Tomato Insects.


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If you’ve ever grown tomatoes before, you’re probably familiar with tomato leaf problems. You might have noticed your tomato plant leaves turning yellow, brown, or getting spots.

So what causes these tomato plant problems?

We all love the flavor of a homegrown tomato. You just can’t get the same intensity and sweetness from any tomato at the grocery store. But homegrown tomatoes also come with lots of pest and disease issues.

The unfortunate reality is that tomatoes are susceptible to many pests and diseases. And many of them lead to yellow or brown spots on tomato leaves. Often you can determine the cause of the issue just by looking at the leaves.

The particular pattern of yellowing or spotting will give you lots of information about what disease or pest is plaguing your tomato plant. Use this guide to tomato leaf problems help you figure out what’s wrong and what, if anything, you can do about it.

Having troubles with your tomato fruit? Read this guide to tomato fruit problems.

If you’re a book person, you’ll love these resources for growing tomatoes that I keep in my garden library.

Organic Gardening For Dummies Rodale’s Ultimate Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening: The Indispensable Green Resource for Every… Epic Tomatoes: How to Select and Grow the Best Varieties of All Time – Organic Gardening For Dummies Rodale’s Ultimate Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening: The Indispensable Green Resource for Every… – Epic Tomatoes: How to Select and Grow the Best Varieties of All Time

There’s a lot of information in this article.

Feel free to read about all of them, but if it seems overwhelming, scan through the bolded words for the particular symptom you’ve noticed on your tomato plant and read just that section. And all the way at the bottom, I have some quick tips for dealing with tomato leaf problems.

Also, make sure you pin this article for later so you can refer back to it whenever you see tomato leaf issues come up.

Nutrient deficiencies that cause pale or yellow leaves on tomato plants

Whenever your plant’s leaves look pale, but the plant is otherwise healthy, try adding an organic liquid fertilizer first. Neptune’s Harvest is a reliable brand that we frequently use. Liquid fertilizer is more quickly absorbed, and you should notice improvement within a day or two.

Yellow leaves on tomato plant are often due to nutrient deficiency

Product Image Product Name Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer 2-4-1 Net Wt. 9lb Neptune’s Harvest FS191 Hydrolized Fish & Seaweed Neptune’s Harvest Tomato & Veg Fertilizer 2-4-2, 1 Gallon Product Rating Prime Eligible Product Image Product Name Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer 2-4-1 Net Wt. 9lb Product Rating Prime Eligible Product Image Product Name Neptune’s Harvest FS191 Hydrolized Fish & Seaweed Product Rating Prime Eligible Product Image Product Name Neptune’s Harvest Tomato & Veg Fertilizer 2-4-2, 1 Gallon Product Rating Prime Eligible

Whatever the deficiency, the liquid fertilizer should take care of it. But if you want to know exactly which nutrient is deficient, you might be able to figure it out by looking at the specific pattern of yellowing.

If you notice your young leaves (those at the top of the plant) are yellow with green veins, suspect iron deficiency. Check your soil pH to make sure it is between 6 and 6.8. If it’s too high, your tomato can’t take up necessary nutrients including iron.

If you notice older leaves (those at the bottom of the plant) are yellow with green veins, suspect potassium deficiency.

If you notice dark spots within the yellow areas and the leaves are small and narrow, you might have a zinc deficiency.

If young leaves are pale and the growing tips of your tomato plant die, suspect calcium deficiency.

Stunted plants with general yellowing of the leaves is an indication of nitrogen deficiency.

It’s best practice to have your soil tested to confirm nutrient deficiencies before adding anything other than organic fertilizer and compost.

Adding too much synthetic fertilizer can burn your plants, and overuse of lime and wood ash can alter your soil pH causing more problems with nutrients than they prevent.

Learn about using fertilizer in your veggie garden.

Yellow tomato leaves due to pests

Pests are a common cause of tomato leaf problems. They are often carriers of tomato diseases as well, so it’s prudent to keep an eye out for any insects on your tomatoes. Read about some of the bugs I’ve found in my tomatoes.

Aphids love tomato plants and cause yellow, misshapen, and sticky leaves. Look for tiny insects on the undersides of leaves and on the stem. These pests will suck the sap from your tomato plant and can be a real problem in any garden.

They can be many colors, but we often see the red/pink ones. Ants love the sticky substance they excrete, and you may have an issue with both insects at the same time.

There are several options for organic aphid control including neem oil and diatomaceous earth.

Brownish, finely dotted leaves with thin webs are an indication of spider mites. Look for tiny spider-like insects on your leaves that make fine webs between and below the leaves. Infested leaves will dry up and fall off.

Spider mites and aphids can be treated with diatomaceous earth (DE). DE is a natural substance that is readily available at local garden centers.

We use a plant duster like this one to apply diatomaceous earth to affected plants. This powder will cut through the aphids’ soft exoskeletons and cause them to dehydrate and die.

Rain and watering will negate the effect of the DE so reapply as needed. Be careful to use DE in well-ventilated areas as inhaling this powder can cause damage to your lungs. And the lungs of kids, pets, and chickens, too!

If they get really bad, other forms of organic pest control including insecticidal soaps and spinosad sprays can also help.

Yellow leaves with holes

Whenever you see holes in your tomato leaves, you should suspect insect damage. Colorado potato beetles, tomato hornworms, grasshoppers, and flea beetles are all common culprits. Remove and squish these pests when you see them and utilize organic pest control practices to manage them.

Yellow leaves and plants that wilt

There are several kinds of wilt caused by bacteria, fungi, nematodes, and toxins that can affect tomatoes. Regardless of the cause of the wilt, it’s best to remove severely affected plants from your garden and destroy them.

For mild infections, remove affected leaves (usually the lower leaves) and send them to the landfill or burn them in an area well removed from your garden. Do not compost diseased plants or leaves.

Fusarium and Verticillium wilt cause yellowing and wilting beginning with the lower leaves.

Tomatoes planted within about 50 feet of a black walnut tree, may suddenly wilt and die. This is caused a toxin secreted from the roots of black walnut trees and tree stumps.

Nematodes in the soil can infect the roots of your plants and cause wilt. If you pull up wilted plants and notice swollen sections in the root balls, nematodes may be the problem. Choose resistant varieties and/or add parasitic nematodes to decrease the incidence of disease.

There are many varieties of tomatoes that are documented to be resistant to various types of wilt. Look for resistance codes BFNV (Bacterial, Fusarium, Nematodes, Verticillium).

A note about resistance: don’t expect resistant varieties not to be affected by these diseases. Expect them to tolerate the disease. Remove and destroy affected leaves as they appear, and the plant should continue to produce fruit for you.

Yellow leaves with brown spots, mottled, or dappled appearance

Pale thin spots like the ones below are due to leaf burn. Leaves will experience sunburn when they haven’t been properly hardened off or when water droplets concentrate light on the leaves. If the burn is not too extensive, your plants will heal on their own and are not cause for concern.

Leaf problems due to tomato plant diseases

Tobacco Mosaic Virus

Dappled yellow leaves with twisty new growth are common with tobacco mosaic virus. This virus is often transmitted by insects and especially aphids.

Do not try to treat these plants. Destroy them and remove them from your property, and be sure to wash your hands after touching any plant you suspect could be infected with this virus.

When choosing tomato varieties for future gardening seasons, look for the TMV resistant label.

Bacterial Speck and Bacterial Leaf Spot

Small dark spots on leaves that then turn brown and fall off are a symptom of bacterial speck and bacterial leaf spot. These diseases thrive in hot, humid environments and can be transmitted by your hands and garden tools.

Be careful working with plants suspected to be infected with this disease. To prevent future issues, remove and destroy severely infected plants and choose varieties with BLS and PST resistance in the future.

Late Blight on tomatoes

Leaves develop brown patches that turn dry and papery when they become infected with late blight. Sometimes a white mold grows along the edges of the brown patches. If your tomato plants have late blight you will also notice blackened areas along the stems and the tomatoes develop hard brown lesions.

Late blight on a tomato plant.

Late blight will wipe out your tomato crop, and there is no treatment for infected plants. So try to prevent this disease by removing and destroying infected plants. Don’t compost them. Send them to the landfill and clean and remove all remnants of the infected crops from your garden.

Here’s a video from the University of Maine about late blight:

For future crops, try applying a preventative copper fungicide or Bacillus subtilis spray, make sure to water your plants at the base as wet conditions favor the spread of this disease, and look for resistant varieties labeled LB.

Septoria Leaf Spot

Septoria leaf spot has a similar appearance, but the brown patches are circular with light centers and dark specks. And the disease will start with the older leaves. Trim off infected leaves and remove them from your garden. Sanitize your hands after dealing with infected plants.

Early Blight on tomato plants

Early blight causes spots of dark concentric rings on leaves and stem of the lower plant first.

Early blight tends to strike your tomato plants when they’re loaded with fruit and days are humid and warm.

Preventative sprays may help slow the onset and spread of the disease, but infected plants should be removed and destroyed. Look for resistant varieties labeled AB (A for Alternaria fungal species) for future gardens.

Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus

Dark brown rings on the leaves can also be caused by tomato spotted wilt virus. In this disease process, you’ll also notice brown streaks on the stems, stunted or one-sided growth, and green rings on immature fruit.

This disease is spread by tiny flying insects called thrips. Check purchase plants carefully for signs of thrips and disease before bringing them home to your garden.

Practice good pest control and remove infected plants to control the spread of this disease. Resistant varieties are labeled TSWV.

Bacterial Canker disease on tomato plant leaves

Leaves with brown edges may be caused by bacterial canker. Lower leaves will also curl up and you may see light brown streaks on the stems of your plant. This disease often shows up after plants have been injured, so be careful when trimming your plants not to leave open wounds.

A note about disease resistance:

Don’t expect resistant varieties not to be affected by these diseases. Expect them to tolerate the disease. Remove and destroy affected leaves as they appear, and the plant should continue to produce fruit for you.

Tomato leaf problems you should not worry about

Tomato leaf curl is often an environmental change due to stress. With no other symptoms of disease, no treatment is necessary.

Purple leaves are caused by expression of anthocyanin due to light exposure. Often appearing on plants grown under intense light, there is no cause for concern or need for treatment of purple tomato leaves.

Phew! Did you make it through all of that?

Thanks for sticking around this long! There’s too much information to commit it all to memory, so here’s the take home message.

Quick tips for dealing with tomato leaf problems.

  1. Make sure your plants have adequate nutrients. Try an organic liquid fertilizer first.
  2. Check for pests on the stems and undersides of your tomato leaves. Remove them by hand and use organic pest control sprays retreating as needed.
  3. If you do find leaves that are yellow, wilted, or spotty. Remove them immediately and dispose of them in your trash. Wash your hands after you handle any plants you suspect may be infected with fungal, bacterial, or viral diseases.
  4. Plant resistant varieties remembering that even resistant plants can be affected by tomato plant diseases but will often continue to produce if cared for properly (remove infected leaves, water, fertilize).
  5. Severely affected plants should be removed from the garden and disposed of as soon as possible.

Last update on 2020-02-01 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API


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Curling Leaves on Tomato Plant

I live and garden in central California. The leaves on my Roma tomato plant are curling. It is in a large pot and placed in sunshine. What am I doing wrong?

Curling leaves can be caused by heat and drought stress or insect damage. Tomatoes and other plants often curl their leaves to conserve moisture during hot, dry periods. Make sure the plants receive sufficient moisture. Water the container thoroughly so the excess runs out the bottom. Check the soil everyday. Plants growing in containers may need to be watered once or twice a day. Check the soil several inches below the surface. When it feels slightly dry and crumbly it is time to water again. Aphids (insects) can also cause curled leaves. You can see these small insects inside the curled leaves. A strong blast of water is often enough. Follow with several applications of insecticidal soap (a soap that kills insects and is soft on plants) or Neem if needed. Some viral diseases can also cause leaf curling and distinct patterns of leaf discoloration. Unfortunately there is no control for these. Destroy the infected plants to prevent the spread of disease.


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If you’re needing help with solving common tomato growing problems this summer then look no further.

This post and episode is all about common tomato growing problems, whether it’s tomato insects or diseases. In addition, I will provide solutions to these problems so you can overcome them!
This episode is brought to you by my e-book, Smart Gardening Made Simple. It is a short e-book where I have compiled my 33 years of knowledge into an easy to read book. I share my best secrets and practices for growing great garden vegetables that are marketable and able to be exhibited at county fairs. Also those best practices that you can use to ensure that you’re going to get the quality vegetables that you’re craving. If you’re interested in this book, scroll down to the bottom to find out more.
Because, I have been growing tomatoes a VERY long time. I’ve dealt with most of these issues in one way or another. I want to help you to combat them so you can grow tomatoes you’re proud of.
Questions this episode will answer:

  • Several common tomato growing problems you might be facing as a tomato grower.
  • Insect pests of tomato plants.
  • What is the best way to control said tomato insects.
  • Disease Identification in Tomatoes.

Listen to the Episode:

Common Tomato Diseases and Pests

Leaf curl

This curling or rolling of the leaves occurs in hot weather or after cultivation or severe pruning and does not affect yield or quality. Keep plants well watered, and do not hoe deeply around plants.

Blossom end rot

Appearing as a dry leathery patch at the bottom of tomato fruit, this disorder is caused by fluctuations in the soil’s moisture supply or by a quick transition from cool to hot weather. Provide uniform watering, use a mulch, and do not over fertilize with nitrogen.

Blossom drop

At temperatures below 60°F or above 90°F, blooms may fall off plants. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization, which encourages blossom drop.


Sudden summer rains or watering after drought may cause fruit cracking. Varieties differ in their tendency to crack, so choose one recommended for Kansas such as Jet Star. Pick fruits in the pink stage and allow them to ripen indoors.

Weed spray damage

Phenoxy herbicides such as 2,4-D in small quantities may cause twisting and distortion of tomato stems and leaves. Avoid using these sprays close to your garden and on days the wind can direct vapors or spray onto your plants. Plants usually return to normal in a few weeks.


Sudden wilting and death can occur as a result of this serious tomato disease. Choose tomato varieties that are resistant to wilt.

Blight and other foliage diseases

Several fungus diseases cause spots or lesions on tomato leaves and fruit. Lower leaves may yellow, die, and fall off the plant. These diseases worsen in warm, humid weather. Planting tomatoes in a different area each year can help. Apply a fungicide or copper sulfate spray applied at weekly intervals to control this problem. Your local garden center can suggest products containing these fungicides. Mulching also helps.


These small green, yellow, or dark-colored insects are often present on tomato plants. Spray plants thoroughly with malathion, cyfluthrin or permethrin. Sevin will not control this pest. Large numbers of lady bugs, lacewings, and other predator insects may control aphids.


Worms cut young tomato plants off at ground level. A paper or aluminum foil collar around each plant should prevent damage.

Spider mites

The first indication of these tiny, difficult-to-see insects is a pale stipple or small white spots on leaves.
Later, leaves shrivel and turn brown, and a fine webbing often appears on the undersides of leaves. Early treatment is crucial. Use a strong jet of water from a hose twice a week to dislodge mites. Be sure to hit the undersides of the leaves.


These green or brown worms with light-colored heads bore into tomato fruits. Use cyfluthrin, spinosad (organic), or permethrin.

Tomato hornworms

These are large green worms with a horn or tail that eat large amounts of tomato foliage. Remove by hand picking. Use Bacillus thuringiensis (BT), cyfluthrin, spinosad (organic), or permethrin for control.

Stink bugs

These green or brown shield-shaped insects suck juices from fruits, leaving white “cloudy spots” beneath the skin. The fruit is safe to eat fresh or to can. If control is desired, cyfluthrin can be applied to the fruit.

Combating the Problems

One aspect I am adamant about in gardening is soil health. It is vital to have healthy soil for any garden to thrive. Tomatoes in particular are easy to stress, so making sure you plant in the right soil at the right time is imperative to their survival.


Occurs in hotter weather or after weeding cultivation. If you prune your plants, it doesn’t affect the yield or the quality of the plants or the quality of the tomatoes. The main thing to do is to keep plants watered. Chances are they may not be getting enough water.
I’m a big fan of watering at the ground level using soaker hoses, especially when there is little to no rain. Water your plants in the very coolest part of the day until the ground is saturated.

This is a disease caused by stress. This is a disease that could happen later on if planted too cold or if the soil is too wet. Here’s what you might see.
The disease identification in tomatoes for blossom end rot looks like a dry leathery patch at the bottom of the tomato fruits. This disorder is caused by fluctuations in the soil moisture supply by a quick transition from cool to hot weather. How to overcome that is to provide uniform watering at the ground level. In addition, use a mulch such as black, plastic, or straw. Don’t over fertilize with nitrogen. Nitrogen fertilizer is not needed after a certain time.
Another tip that my grandma swears by, and yours might too, is using epsom salts around the bottom of the plants.

That’s when the little blossoms on the tomatoes fall off unexpectedly and they typically do this when the temperatures are below 60 degrees Fahrenheit or above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. So we’ve had hot temperatures lately. We’ve had above average temperatures for June and we’re into July now but above 90 degrees blooms might fall off the plant and sometimes that’s due to excessive nitrogen fertilization.
If you’re giving miracle grow or some kind of nitrogen based fertilizer, you’re going to see that blossom drop a little more excessively. Again, you can just stop the fertilizer and just water at the ground level like you have been, mulch, and just try to do the best you can. You cannot control the temperatures unless your tomatoes are inside a hoop house or greenhouse. So you’re just going to have to wait it out and kind of see what happens.

What I mean by cracking in your tomatoes, you might be seeing cracking happening on top or where the stem meets the fruit and this is typically caused by sudden summer rains or watering during a drought. One way to get around this is to choose a variety that is a little more crack resistant. One of my favorite varieties that produces beautiful tomatoes and hardly ever cracks is called Jet Star and we grow Jet Star every year. We actually won champion tomatoes of the Kansas State Fair with Jet Stars.
Another tip if you’re having problems with cracking is to pick the tomatoes at the pink stage or the orange to red stage before they crack and allow them to ripen indoors. Basically you just need a cool room inside with some light, although they may take a little longer to ripen that way.

24-D is a really common chemical found in herbicide mixtures, so it is sprayed for weeds and typically crop fields. The drift can affect the tomatoes in your garden so easily.
Tomatoes are very, very sensitive to 24-D. It can cause twisting and distortion of the tomato stems and leaves and can even kill the tomato plants if too much you drift wanders it’s way onto them. The best way to combat this is to talk to your neighbor and let them know and to ask them to be extra diligent.


You can choose varieties that are resistant to wilting. Do a search at your local garden center, talk with some other growers, see what they’re doing to find the wilt resistant varieties in your area.


Blight is a fungal disease, so it causes spots or lesions on tomato leaves and fruit. Disease identification in tomatoes for blight: You might see lower leaves turning yellow and dying and falling off the plant. This disease can worsen, especially if it’s raining on top of it.
Therefore, watering at the ground level is a great thing. If you can use soaker hoses on your tomatoes when it’s hot, dry, and humid, that is going to help your blight problems. Another way you can combat these problems is to plant tomatoes in a different area each year. Rotate your tomato plantings.
You can apply a fungicide or copper sulfate spray at weekly intervals to control this problem. Also, if you need some recommendations on good fungicide, just look at your local garden center.

Insects that are common tomato growing problems

They are typically small, green, yellow, or dark colored insects. There are typically presented on the tomato plants. You can control aphids using other predator insects such as lacewings or lady bugs. So there are ways that you can bring them in or they come in on their own after the aphids arrive or you can spray with an insecticide. A permethrin product will control it.


Ugly Brownish, Brownish Yellow, disgusting worm that cuts young tomato plants off at the ground level. So you’ll find them down there and the soil is where you’re going to look. You can control these by wrapping aluminum foil around each plant to prevent the damage. You can also pick up these slimy worms and squish them. That’s me and my kids.
However, that might be a little labor intensive so the spray might be way more doable for you.

Spider mites are very hard to control once they arrive. The first indication of these tomato insects are pale or white small spots on the leaves.
The insects themselves are very tiny to see, so almost impossible to see with the naked eye. What you will see later on is leaves shriveling and turning brown and then a fine webbing that appears on the undersides of leaves. So you want to be looking at the undersides and seeing what they look like as well.
Early treatment is crucial. You can use a strong jet of water from a hose twice a week to dislodge mites, but you want to be sure to hit the undersides of the leaves. That is the best recommendation for controlling these spider mites.

Fruit worms

These are just green or brown worms with light colored heads and they bore into tomato fruit. So if you’re seeing tomatoes that have holes in them, then chances are you’re dealing with these fruit worms.
Some insecticides you can use: An organic one is spinosad and some commercial ones are cyfluthrin or permethrin. These are just the chemical names. You can go to a garden center and just search for a certain insecticides with permethrin or cyfluthrin.

Tomato horn worm

These are large green worms with a horn or tail that eats large amounts of tomato foliage. Large amounts. We’re talking like you see the tomato plant one day and it’s great the next day it’s like missing half its leaves and it looks like death.
So, um, yeah, that’s how much damage they can do. So you want to get a handle on them as soon as possible. First you can remove by hand picking.
My girls and I go out and search the underside of the leaves if we see the tomato plants looking poorly. These tomato insects like to hide. Then, you can squish them or put them in some, put them in a cup with gasoline or fuel or something that will kill them.
Next, you can use some kind of insecticide to spray the plants with to keep the hornworms away. Spinosad is going to be your organic solution if you’re an organic grower. Then there is cyfluthrin and permethrin control that we use it’s easy to get and we spray in the evening and it does a really good job taking control of those horn worms.


They look like green or brown shield shaped insects so they can kind of be confused with a squash bug, but they’re a little bit smaller than a squash bug. What they do is they suck juices from the fruit, so you’ll see them once tomatoes start coming on. They leave white cloudy spots beneath the skin of the tomatoes.
Note that the fruit is safe to eat fresh or to can, just remove the insects and squish them or throw them into a cup of gasoline or turpentine.

Get a Handle on These Common Tomato Growing Problems

I hope you never have to deal with these problems. But, chances are that the longer you grow your tomatoes, the better chances you will see these pesky issues.
So, I hope that you find these solutions for tomato insects and disease identification in tomatoes helpful. Here’s some links that you might find helpful:

More resources for growing tomatoes

Best Tricks for Growing Great Tomatoes in Your Home Garden

Fight Blossom End Rot in Tomatoes

How to Control Green Tomato Hornworms

Stake Young Plants with Baling Twine
So there ya have it, 13 most common tomato growing problems and how to combat them. I hope you found this episode helpful. We would love if you headed on over to iTunes and leave us a review. The more reviews we receive the more content we’ll be able to provide and the more podcast guests we’ll be able to attract!
Good luck with your tomato growing endeavor and overcoming common tomato growing problems!

~ Much Love ~

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Tomato Curling Leaves – Causes And Effects Of Tomato Plant Leaf Curl

Are your tomato leaves curling? Tomato plant leaf curl can leave gardeners feeling frustrated and uncertain. However, learning to recognize the sign and causes of curling tomato leaves can make it easier to both prevent and treat the problem.

Tomato Plant Leaf Curl Virus

Curling tomato leaves may be a sign of a viral infection. Normally this virus is transmitted through whiteflies or through infected transplants.

Though it can take up to three weeks before any symptoms develop, the most common indicator of the disease is the yellowing and upward curling of the leaves, which may also appear crumply. Plant growth soon becomes stunted and may even take on a bush-like growth habit. Flowers usually will not develop and those that do simply drop off. In addition, fruit production will be significantly reduced.

Other Reasons for Tomato Curling Leaves

Another cause of tomato plant leaf curling, also known as leaf roll, is attributed to physiological conditions. While its exact cause may be unknown, it’s believed to be a sort of self-defense mechanism.

During excessively cool, moist conditions, leaves may roll upward and become leathery in an effort to repel this excessive moisture. This specific condition occurs around fruit setting time and is most commonly seen on staked and pruned plants.

Curling tomato leaves may also be triggered by just the opposite—uneven watering, high temperatures, and dry spells. Leaves will curl upward to conserve water but they do not take on the leathery-like appearance. Plum and paste varieties are most commonly affected.

Cure for Tomato Leaves Curling

Although physiologic effects for tomato leaf curl do not affect the overall growth or crop yields of plants, when the tomato leaf curling is due to a viral infection, removal of the infected plants is necessary.

You should also destroy these tomato plant leaf curl infected plants to prevent any further transmission to those nearby. The key to managing tomato leaf curl is through prevention. Plant only pest and disease-resistant varieties. Also, protect garden plants from possible whitefly infestations by adding floating row covers and keep the area free of weeds, which often attract these pests.

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