Lantana cold hardiness temperature

Lantana

January 21, 2017

We purchased a house in June of 2016 that has a large amount of lantanas. Now that the frost has killed the top foliage, what should I do? Should they be trimmed to the ground or left to come back?

Lantana is one of those plants that can either be an annual or a perennial depending on the winter weather. In south Arkansas, they usually come back each year from the root system while in NW Arkansas they would only survive a really mild winter. Some gardeners allow the spent foliage to remain as added winter protection, but it can be a bit unsightly. I would recommend cutting back the spent foliage and then adding an additional layer of mulch to help protect them for the remainder of the winter. In the spring, if they do survive, they are often a bit slow to bounce back since they are heat-loving plants.

(December 2012)

With the frost and cold temps my trailing Lantana is now brown and brittle. When do I cut it back and how much should I cut it?

Once a killing frost occurs, I begin to clean up the spent foliage of annuals and perennials. Some gardeners prefer to leave the old foliage on lantanas as extra winter protection, but I cut mine back and add a little extra mulch. Lantana is a true perennial in south Arkansas, hit and miss in central Arkansas and usually an annual in north Arkansas.

(September 2012)

I have deer or rodents eating my hosta, lantana, etc. What is the best way to get rid of them? I live in the woods of Bella Vista and have lots of wildlife around here, i.e., groundhogs, rabbits, deer, squirrels, fox, etc. I have lived here many, many years but this is the first year I have encountered this problem. Please help me save my plants!

Deer and animal problems are worse this year that ever! The dry weather has taken away much of their natural food source, and they are moving into yards and gardens that are being maintained. In your neck of the woods, I am surprised this is a new occurrence. Many of our gardeners up there are plagued with deer annually. Several options exist—deer fencing, electric fencing, and repellants. We do have a list of deer resistant plants on our website at: http://www.arhomeandgarden.org/landscaping/deer_resistant.htm but the deer haven’t read it, and occasionally eat plants on the list, if they are desperate enough.

(July 2012)

Like a lot of people, I’m losing some plants this summer. You may know that here in Maumelle, we’re restricted to once-a-week watering. Even sneaking around my back yard with my hose isn’t doing the job! You mentioned in your column today that hydrangeas are not drought-tolerant. I have one that’s in a bad spot that I think I’ll just take out after this year, so I know what you’re talking about. My question is this: Would it be possible for you to print a list of plants that are drought-tolerant in an upcoming column? I’ve threatened to tear everything out and plant cacti next year or maybe just rosemary and Black-eyed Susans, since that’s all that’s doing well in my garden right now!

As mentioned above with the crape myrtles, even they are struggling with the heat! Also, when planting even the most drought tolerant plants, the first growing season, they will need water. I can’t imagine what my landscape would look like with once a week watering—the soil is so incredibly rocky, and I am on a slope, so I feel for you with water restrictions. Deep, excellent soil encourages deep roots, which makes it easier to water less often. Some drought tolerant shrubs for sun include: abelia, althea (rose of Sharon), forsythia, spirea, buddleia (butterfly bush), barberry, junipers, beautyberry, nandina and ninebark. For shade, acuba, cleyera, and even camellias once they are well established. Perennials include rosemary, thyme, lamb’s ear, butterfly weed (milkweed), yarrow, gaura, rudbeckia (black eyed Susan), purple coneflower, liatris, sedum and penstemon. Annuals include lantana, periwinkle, cleome (spider flower), cockscomb, cosmos and portulaca. There are also a good number of succulents—plants with thick fleshy leaves that are available from nurseries.

(November 2011)

We have purple flowering lantana that grew beautifully. When should we cut it back and how much should we cut it back? Last year we did it wrong and it did not come back. We had to replant.

I am not sure you did it wrong last year, or if it simply got colder than normal and that is what killed it. Lantana is marginally winter hardy in central Arkansas, and an annual in the northern tier of the state. Some folks like to leave the spent foliage as extra protection, but regardless, wait for a killing frost before you add extra mulch and/or prune it back. Be patient in the spring, because it is a heat lover and slow to begin new growth. Also keep in mind, that some varieties are hardier than others.

(July 2006)

I live in Magnolia, AR and I planted Gold Mound lantana around the edges of my patio three years ago and the first year had glorious blooms on each plant. For the past two years shortly after the green growth emerges the tips of the leaves turn brown and curl. The plants continue to grow and produce some flowers but nothing compared to the first year. I don’t trim back the lantana until after danger of frost is past so I’m not certain what the problem is. The plants are on the east side and get full sun.

Lantana thrive in heat and sun. What you are describing sounds like some type of burn. Could you have over-fertilized, dumped some type of chemical nearby or gotten drift from a lawn weed killer? In Magnolia, Arkansas, most lantanas are perennial. Have your soil tested to make sure the pH is in balance and to make sure you don’t have a salts buildup. If none of the above conditions apply, try digging up a small plant and taking it to your local county extension office so they can send it to the disease diagnostic lab. If your soil is particularly poor, and over-fertilization and salts is not an issue, try using a slow release fertilizer such as osmocote, then using a water soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. Water when dry.

(February)

If you have time, I would sure like to know when you would recommend pruning Crape Myrtles, Lantana, Coral Bells, Weigela, and Dwarf Maiden Grass. We planted all these plants last summer

There are several different types of plants you are asking about from annuals to perennials to woody shrubs. Let’s start with the woodies. Crape myrtles bloom on new growth. If they need it, prune them before new growth begins in late Feb. Weigelia is a late spring bloomer, but it has its flower buds set now, so prune it after it blooms. All ornamental grasses benefit from a haircut before new growth begins–in late Feb through mid March. Before pruning, check to see how much new growth there is, and then cut as low as possible, without cutting into any new green. Coral Bells–or heuchera ( I assume you mean the perennial–not Coral bell azaleas) is a semi-evergreen perennial. Often you will have some cleanup to do in the spring before new growth begins. Lantana is a summer annual/perennial. In some parts of the state it comes back easier than in others. It is rare to see any lantana resprouting above ground. Usually it will come back from the crown, with the upper portions burned back by winter, so cutting back the dead foliage before new growth begins is beneficial.

In a recent issue of Southern Living there was an article on lantanas. It said that lantanas are native to tropical America and may be annuals or perennials, depending on where you live. We live in Heber Springs. Would these flowers do well here? If so, where can we get plants or seeds? We like the idea of something that is hardy and blooms spring until fall. Thanks for your assistance..

Lantana plants would be considered an annual in Heber Springs, although it is perennial in south Arkansas and even occasionally in Little Rock. In mild winters it may over winter further north, but don’t count on it. Lantana is a common plant at most nurseries and garden centers statewide. It has been on the market for years. Newer varieties have been released that are self-cleaning, meaning they don’t set as many seeds, and the plants bloom more freely without the need to deadhead. Lantana thrives in hot weather. It won’t kick in and grow when the weather is cool in early spring, but once the soil temperature heats up, this plant will bloom up until frost. It comes in a variety of colors from yellows, whites, reds, and the traditional multi colored blooms of yellow and oranges. Give it plenty of sunlight and fertilize monthly throughout the blooming season.

(February)

Last year I planted Lantana in several sunny spots in my yard. They were luscious and grew quite large. Now, they are mere stalks and my question is, will they come back again or are they annuals? If they are perennials, when do I trim them back?.

Lantana is one of those wait-and-see type of plants. Some years they are perennial in central Arkansas, and some years they aren’t. If they do come back, they typically begin growing at the soil line–from the crown of the plant–not from the top. You can begin cleaning up the dead stalks, and add a light layer of mulch, being careful not to uproot the whole plant. Be patient this spring–lantana’s thrive in heat, and even if they are still alive, they will not be the first thing to green back up. I have some that have survived, but I usually add a few new ones, because I am too impatient to wait for that first bloom.

I bought the most beautiful purple blooming plant the other day. I know nothing about it, other than the nametag that came with it–heliotrope. Do you know anything about this plant? Is it an annual or a perennial? What care should I give it? (Beebe)

Heliotrope is a wonderful tender plant, grown either as a summer annual or treated as a tropical plant, and moved indoors in the winter. These wonderful dark green foliaged plants have a beautiful cluster of flowers in shades of purple or white. The flowers are very fragrant, and should bloom all summer long. They do best in full sun and need lots of water–they are not very drought tolerant. Conversely, they don’t tolerate wet feet either. Depending on cultivar they can grow from 15 to 30 inches tall.

(November)

I need your HELP! I have got the most beautiful Lantana’s in my front yard, and I have been told that if I cut them back and cover them well with bark they will come back… Is this true?? Just tell me what I need to do.

Lantana plants are moderately winter hardy. Some people have lantana that are perennial in nature and come back every year, while others replant every season. Some of this depends on where you are in the state — south or north, and then also, what type of winter we have. For your best chance, wait for a killing frost, then mulch a little extra. Be patient in the spring, since lantana will not begin to grow until the soil temperature has sufficiently warmed up.

(October)

When is the proper time to prune lantanas that are planted in the yard and to what length should the stalks be cut?

Lantana plants will die to the ground usually following a killing frost. At that point you can cut off the old foliage and mulch them for the winter. In south Arkansas they are fairly reliable perennials. In central Arkansas and northward they are iffy. Pruning during the growing season is usually not done unless they get leggy or need dead-heading.

(July)

I have heard that if you dead head Lantana’s that they will help them bloom more. I have tried that and it takes a lot of time — nearly every day. Do you think that is true and is it worth the time and effort?

If you have a lantana that sets a profuse amount of seeds, then deadheading weekly should definitely help with rebloom. I would not do it daily, since that is a bit tedious. Some varieties of lantana set more seeds than others. A few varieties are practically seedless. Whenever a plant sets seeds, it redirects energy that could go into setting more flowers into the seed production, so if you want plenty of flowers, do deadhead.

(July)

Last year I spent hours dead-heading yellow Lantanas even though they don’t seem to put out many seeds. This year I have not dead-headed and can’t tell the difference in the number of flowers. Is dead-heading really necessary?

Some varieties of lantanas set a profusion of seeds, while others rarely set any seeds at all — they are basically self-cleaning. I would only dead-head if you see seed heads forming. Seed set takes away from the plant setting more flowers, but if yours aren’t setting seeds, it would be a waste of time to dead-head.

(April)

I had a penta plant and a lantana plant in the garage all winter. I took them out the first of April. The lantana already had leafed out and had a bloom. The penta had leafed out on the end of stalks with brown leaves, it was also growing new growth from the roots. I didn’t do anything to the lantana, but cut the penta back down to the new growth from the roots. Thinking it wasn’t going to be cold that night, I left them uncovered in the yard. Evidently it was still too cold because the leaves were brown on the ends the next morning. Should I just cut them back to the roots now?

A lot of people got anxious this spring and moved plants outdoors a bit early-there were temperatures from the low 30’s – mid 40’s many nights. Hopefully, the root system is fine and will go ahead and re-sprout new foliage. Be patient and see where growth begins again when the weather stays warm. It is helpful to prune them back some to encourage new growth. Sometimes they get awfully leggy after being protected all winter. Fertilize lightly now, and more when they get growing.

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Lantana tree for sale – Easy plant to grow, Lantana grown for the ornamental flowers and hedge plant, planting in early spring to summer, better to buy plant or another option to start from seeds.

Lantana tree – information before buying:

Growing information: perennial or cold annual plant, growing hardiness zone: 5-12, water needed – small to average amount, light conditions – partial to full sun, height: 2-3.5 m, 7-12 feet.

Blooming in the spring to the autumn and less in the winter, in star shaped flowers that appear in yellow, pink, purple, red, white or mix color.

Alternative names: Shrub verbenas, Lantanas, Big sage, Wild sage, Red sage, White sage, Tickberry

Lantana tree for sale

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Uses – Lantana essential oil is known to be calming and helps relieve daily tension and promote sleep. It is also known for its soothing properties.

Here are some growing tips:

Location – Warm and sunny

Temperature – optimal between 22 and 27°C (75 to 81°F)

Soil – Rich, well-drained, neutral PH. Limestone soil may also be suitable for the plant.

Propagation – starting from cutting is really easy. In the late winter, take the cutting from a last season growth. Cut 8cm (3inches) from the stem. If the stem has leaves remove them. Only keep one or 2 leaves in the top. Put in a flowerpot soil with perlite and peat moss. To transplant in the ground: dig a hole 3 times the size of the lantana ball, pour a layer of clay or gravel, install the root ball being careful not to bury the root ball too much, fill the hole with lightened and enriched soil and water generously.

Watering – The first year, better regular watering to help building the roots. After this, check the foliage: when it is tilt slightly toward the ground it is time for watering. As it is a shrub that resists drought and pollution well, it is no longer necessary to water it regularly when ripe. During winter periods, the soil should remain almost dry.

Fertilizer – You can fertilize the soil with an organic fertilizer twice a month.

Pruning – It can be a natural shape or direct it on a stem from a young plant. Pruning takes place in winter. Cut short with 1 or 2 eyes each branch of the lantana. Plants in the greenhouse require severe pruning in October. In summer, remove the faded flowers as you go along to stimulate the appearance of new flowers.

Pests and diseases – Lantana tree can be attacked, in the greenhouse, by aphids, white flies, red spiders and mites. Excess moisture in winter causes the plant to rot.

Luscious® Citrus Blend™ Lantana (tree form) in bloom

Luscious® Citrus Blend™ Lantana (tree form) in bloom

(Photo courtesy of NetPS Plant Finder)

Height: 4 feet

Spread: 24 inches

Sunlight:

Hardiness Zone: (annual)

Group/Class: Luscious Series

Brand: Proven Winners

Description:

This variety produces a vibrant display of red, orange, and yellow tones in the form of a small tree; heat and drought tolerant; great for beds, borders, and containers

Ornamental Features

Luscious® Citrus Blend™ Lantana (tree form) features showy cymes of red flowers with orange overtones and yellow centers at the ends of the branches from early summer to mid fall. Its tomentose pointy leaves remain green in color throughout the year. The fruit is not ornamentally significant.

Landscape Attributes

Luscious® Citrus Blend™ Lantana (tree form) is an annual, selected and trained to grow in a small tree-like form with the primary plant grafted high atop a standard. Its medium texture blends into the garden, but can always be balanced by a couple of finer or coarser plants for an effective composition.

This is a relatively low maintenance plant, and should not require much pruning, except when necessary, such as to remove dieback. It is a good choice for attracting butterflies to your yard, but is not particularly attractive to deer who tend to leave it alone in favor of tastier treats. It has no significant negative characteristics.

Luscious® Citrus Blend™ Lantana (tree form) is recommended for the following landscape applications;

  • Accent
  • General Garden Use
  • Container Planting

Planting & Growing

Luscious® Citrus Blend™ Lantana (tree form) will grow to be about 4 feet tall at maturity, with a spread of 24 inches. It tends to be leggy, with a typical clearance of 3 feet from the ground, and should be underplanted with lower-growing perennials. Although it’s not a true annual, this fast-growing plant can be expected to behave as an annual in our climate if left outdoors over the winter, usually needing replacement the following year. As such, gardeners should take into consideration that it will perform differently than it would in its native habitat.

This plant does best in full sun to partial shade. It is very adaptable to both dry and moist growing conditions, but will not tolerate any standing water. It is considered to be drought-tolerant, and thus makes an ideal choice for a low-water garden or xeriscape application. It is not particular as to soil type or pH, and is able to handle environmental salt. It is highly tolerant of urban pollution and will even thrive in inner city environments. This is a selected variety of a species not originally from North America, and parts of it are known to be toxic to humans and animals, so care should be exercised in planting it around children and pets. It can be propagated by cuttings; however, as a cultivated variety, be aware that it may be subject to certain restrictions or prohibitions on propagation.

Luscious® Citrus Blend™ Lantana (tree form) is a fine choice for the yard, but it is also a good selection for planting in outdoor pots and containers. With its upright habit of growth, it is best suited for use as a ‘thriller’ in the ‘spiller-thriller-filler’ container combination; plant it near the center of the pot, surrounded by smaller plants and those that spill over the edges. Note that when growing plants in outdoor containers and baskets, they may require more frequent waterings than they would in the yard or garden.

How to Grow Lantana Plants

Botanical Name: Lantana camara

Colorful flower clusters have long made lantana plants a favorite for flower beds and borders. They’ve made their way indoors — small plants are a beautiful sight in a sunny window. Their scented blossoms are attractive to butterflies, too, if you choose to move lantana to your porch or patio for the summer.

The key to lots of lantana flowers is plenty of sunlight. A sunny porch gives it more blooming power.

The Lantana genus is in the verbena family (Verbenaceae) and includes 150 species of flowering perennials. Lantana camara is by far the most cultivated species and includes 100s of beautiful cultivars to choose from.

Flower clusters, called umbels, are available in a range of yellow, orange, red, white, pink, lavender and purple. Two or three colors are often present on each flower head with the flower buds opening in succession from the outside ring toward the center.

Lantana is a prolific bloomer in a sunny window, giving a big show of color for several months.

Buy Lantana Plants

You can buy lantana plants and seeds in garden centers or online nurseries. Countless varieties are available. Lantana camara ‘Sundancer’ is a yellow lantana cultivar with a spreading habit suitable for a hanging basket. ‘Chelsea Gem’ has yellow, orange and orange-red flowers…’Patriot Hot Country’ is stunning in pink, orange and bright yellow…’Patriot Cowboy’ lantana is compact, reaching about 1 ft (30 cm) high, and is a prolific bloomer with yellow flowers that turn bright orange.

The ovate, toothed leaves are dark-green and deeply veined. Lantana leaves are slightly toxic, so take care when growing these flowers, lantana can cause illness if ingested. Another caution: this plant is fast-growing and can be invasive if grown in the garden. That’s another good reason to grow it in a pot.

Year-Round Lantana Tips

Pinch and prune. Pinch off growing tips to keep lantana compact and to encourage branching. Some cultivars are compact and may not need pinching at all. Pruning lantana in late winter will bring more blooms. Cut stems back to about 5 in (13 cm).

Deadhead spent blooms to encourage more flowers. You can keep your lantana blooming for months on end as long as it gets enough sunlight.

Repot in spring when the roots are growing through the bottom of the pot. Move up to a pot only 1 size larger. Lantana flowers best when slightly pot-bound.

Watch for whiteflies that like to attack lantana plants. You’ll find these tiny, white moth-like insects lurking under leaves. Get rid of whiteflies as soon as you notice them because they multiply quickly.

Overwinter your plant. Lantanas are evergreen, but frost-tender. Bring your potted lantana plants indoors when the temperature drops in autumn, and you’ll enjoy those colorful flowers a little longer. When flowering is over, give it a rest. Continue to give it lots of sun and keep it cool (about 50°F/10°C) in winter. Water sparingly, just enough to prevent the potting mix from drying out.

Lantana Plant Care

Origin: Central and South America

Height: Up to 6 ft (1.8 m); Easily kept to 1 ft (30 cm) indoors with regular pinching and pruning lantana.

Light: Bright light to full sun. At least 6 hours of direct sunlight will make lantana flower. Keep your plant in a sunny window or move it outdoors for the summer to give it the light it needs to bloom.

Water: Keep soil evenly moist, not soggy spring through fall; slightly drier in winter. Established plants will tolerate drier soil.

Humidity: Moderate to high (around 50% relative humidity or higher). Stand plant on a tray of wet pebbles to increase humidity.

Temperature: Normal room temperatures 60-75°F/16-24°C. Lantanas are cold-hardy to USDA Zone 9, if you put them outdoors.

Soil: Peat moss based potting mix, such as African violet potting mix.

Fertilizer: Feed every 2 weeks with a liquid or water-soluble fertilizer diluted by half while plant is growing.

Propagation: Take stem tip cuttings in spring or early summer. They’ll root easily in moist soil. Lantana seeds are easy to germinate. If you want to collect seeds from your plant, allow some flowers to go to seed in the fall. Store seeds in a cool, dry place then sow them indoors in early spring.

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Most varieties of lantana, including ‘New Gold’, ‘Festival’ and ‘Tutti Fruiti’ are not winter-hardy in Atlanta. Rick Berry, the proprietor of Goodness Grows Nursery in Lexington, introduced ‘Miss Huff’ lantana several years ago because it can usually survive cold winters in Athens.

David Funderburk, retired naturalist at Fernbank Science center passes on that Dr. David Bradshaw, horticulturist at Clemson University, grows a hardy lantana called ‘Mozelle’.

Dr. Bradshaw says “About the lantana ‘Mozelle’, I had a friend, Mozelle Smith, whose daughter lived in Texas (I think Houston). In one of her visits to Houston, she collected some young lantana plants growing along a canal. She brought them home and they survived several years, hardy right through our winters. When she told me hers were hardy, I said no, they must be coming up from seed. She called me over in the spring to see them coming back from winter-killed plants. They were indeed hardy. She gave me some for our botanical garden where they continue to grow today. After my friend died of brain cancer, we named the variety ‘Mozelle’ in her memory. We have since propagated it and shared it with the nursery trade.”

Funderburk testifies that “Our lantana ‘Mozelle’ has done well in Stone Mountain for three growing seasons. It grows about three feet tall and spreads out at lease five or six feet. Each late winter I cut it back almost to the ground and it comes back vigorously.”

Tags For This Article: lantana, Winter

Overwintered lantana blooms in June | Raleigh News & Observer

Gardeners should not cut back lantana until spring. Courtesy of JC Raulston Arboretum.

Q: My question is about what is termed “perennial” (according to a Raleigh garden center) lantana, which I planted three years ago in my Sandhills garden. It has returned each year and is huge. However, it does not produce blooms until mid-June at the earliest. In the fall, I cut it back to about 12 to 18 inches and am wondering if this is resulting in it being a late bloomer.

Gerry Smalley

Whispering Pines

A: Lantana is certainly not top hardy here in most of North Carolina. I generally recommend gardeners to not cut it back at all until spring when new growth starts at the base and then to cut it back hard. The twiggy stems will help hold in some heat during very cold nights and add to the plant’s hardiness. At any rate, flowering getting going by mid-June is typical and should continue to fall.

Will this plant survive the winter?

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Q: Will orange peel cestrum overwinter in northern Wake county? I have had two over the past two years. They performed beautifully. However, neither survived the winter. One winter was harsh and one was relatively mild. Any thoughts?

Tony Denton

Wake County

A: Cestrum ‘Orange Peel,’ known as willow-leaf jessamine, is purportedly a hybrid between C. diurnum and C. nocturnum, the day- and night-blooming cestrums respectively. Since both those species are white flowered, I have my doubts and think that the orange C. aurantiacum probably has something to do with the cross. For those unfamiliar with this plant, it makes a large, deer-resistant shrub to 10 feet tall and 8 feet wide topped from late spring through fall with rich, orange-yellow flowers in dense clusters.

In northern Wake County, you are at the very limits of its hardiness. The plant is generally listed as a zone 7b plant, which means it should be hardy to a low of 5 degrees. (Zone 7b extends from Raleigh to Charlotte.) My experience with this plant says that anything below about 8 degrees will kill it back to the ground, but it will re-sprout in spring to make a good sized shrub.

One key for increased winter survivability is to plant it in a well-drained, sunny spot as it does not appreciate excess winter moisture. If you have had trouble with the plant, get it in the ground early in spring to give it plenty of time to develop a good root system in case it is killed to the ground. Mulch it well before winter and don’t be too quick to compost it in the spring. It will need some warmth to start growing again.

An Ant Problem

Q: I have a problem with ants invading many of the potted plants I have on my paver stone patio and cement walks. Do you have any suggestions or solutions to help me with this problem I’ve had for many years?

Martha Wilson

Cary

A: I didn’t have a good answer for you so I checked in with one of N.C. State University’s experts, entomologist Steven Frank. Unfortunately, he didn’t have a great answer either. There are some commercial products specifically formulated for fire ants or as a perimeter protection for your house for multiple species of ants (I have used Amdro products for fire ants in our nursery). If you are planting annuals in your containers, using new, clean soil each season and raising your pots off the ground will help. Smaller pots can be immersed in tepid water to get rid of most of the ants if you are dealing with already infested plants. Sprinkling diatomaceous earth on top of your pots and around the base will also deter ants from setting up shop and can ultimately kill off populations in your pots.

Mark Weathington is the director of the JC Raulston Arboretum at N.C. State University in Raleigh. Info: jcra.ncsu.edu. Please send your garden questions, including the city where you garden, to: [email protected]

Plant Spotlight

Common name: Willow-leaf jessamine

Botanical name: Cestrum parqui

Family: Nightshade (Solanaceae)

Category: Flowering shrub

Primary uses: Shrub borders, perennial beds

Dimensions: 5-8 feet tall by 4-6 feet wide

Culture: Sun

Bloom time: June to September

Bloom color: Mustard yellow

Hardiness: 5 degrees (USDA hardiness zone 7b)

General attributes: Willow-leaf jessamine makes a large, multi-stemmed shrub with narrow, lance-like leaves. From mid-summer to frost the plant is covered in sprays of small, tubular, mustard-yellow flowers which attract hummingbirds by the droves. The flowers have little fragrance until the evening when they will scent the entire garden. The flowers are followed by showy, glossy black bead-like fruits. In cold winters and at the northern end of its hardiness range, this plant will die back to the ground. Expect it to quickly reach 5 feet tall and flower well by early summer of the following year. Plant this South American species in full sun and a relatively well-drained soil.

Zone 6 Flowers: Tips On Growing Flowers In Zone 6 Gardens

With milder winters and a longer growing season, many plants grow well in zone 6. If you are planning a flowerbed in zone 6, you’re in luck, as there are hundreds of hardy flowering plants for zone 6. While a properly designed flowerbed may consist of ornamental trees and shrubs as well, the main focus of this article is annuals and perennials for zone 6 gardens.

Growing Zone 6 Flowers

Proper care for zone 6 flowering plants depends on the plant itself. Always read plant tags or ask a garden center worker about a plant’s specific needs. Shade loving plants can be stunted or badly burned in too much sun. Likewise, sun loving plants may be stunted or not bloom in too much shade.

Whether full sun, part shade or shade, there are choices of annuals and perennials that can be interplanted for continually blooming flowerbeds. Annuals and perennials alike will benefit from a monthly feeding with a balanced fertilizer, like 10-10-10, once a month during the growing season.

There are certainly too many flowering annuals and perennials for zone 6 to list them all in this article, but below you will find some of the most common zone 6 flowers.

Perennial Flowers for Zone 6

  • Amsonia
  • Astilbe
  • Aster
  • Balloon Flower
  • Bee Balm
  • Black Eyed Susan
  • Blanket Flower
  • Bleeding Heart
  • Candytuft
  • Coreopsis
  • Coneflower
  • Coral Bells
  • Creeping Phlox
  • Daisy
  • Daylily
  • Delphinium
  • Dianthus
  • Foxglove
  • Gaura
  • Goat’s Beard
  • Helleborus
  • Hosta
  • Ice Plant
  • Lavender
  • Lithodora
  • Penstemon
  • Salvia
  • Phlox
  • Violet
  • Yarrow

Zone 6 Annuals

  • Angelonia
  • Bacopa
  • Begonia
  • Calibrachoa
  • Cleome
  • Cockscomb
  • Cosmos
  • Four O’Clocks
  • Fuchsia
  • Geranium
  • Heliotrope
  • Impatiens
  • Lantana
  • Lobelia
  • Marigold
  • Mexican Heather
  • Moss Rose
  • Nasturtium
  • Nemesia
  • New Guinea Impatiens
  • Ornamental Pepper
  • Pansy
  • Petunia
  • Snapdragons
  • Strawflower
  • Sunflower
  • Sweet Alyssum
  • Torenia
  • Verbena

10 Best Flowers to Plant in the Summer

Summer will be here before you know it (you may be feeling it already) and this means long, hot days and bright, cheery flower gardens. We talked about which bulbs are best to plant in the spring but if you waited too long, no need to worry, there are still flowers you can plant that will withstand the heat and thrive during this time of year. Read on for our list of the best flowers to plant during the summer and get that colorful garden you’ve always dreamed of.

Marigold

It’s hard to find a flower that’s more cheerful than the classic Marigold. Available in bright, warm yellows and oranges, Marigolds are a must for your summer garden. These flowers require lots of sunshine and very little maintenance.

Best for Plant Hardiness Zone: 2-11

Type: Annual

Black-eyed Susan

The black-eyed Susan may be one of the most popular wildflowers around and remains a welcoming sight to any garden. These tough, golden flowers thrive in the sunshine and get along with just about any other flower out there. They also make great cut flowers and will liven up any bouquet.

Best for Plant Hardiness Zone: 2-9

Type: Annual/Perennial

Aster

You’re most likely to see this garden favorite in a rich purple or lavender, but don’t be too surprised to see pink and white flowers as well. This dainty flower can withstand the heat, and adds a soft touch to any garden. Expect to enjoy these flowers from spring through fall.

Best for Plant Hardiness Zone: 3-9

Type: Perennial

These low-maintenance flowers come in a wide array of colors, including red, yellow, orange, pink, and purple. They’ll bloom all season long and are extremely drought tolerant, making them the ideal summer flower to really make your garden pop.

Best for Plant Hardiness Zone: 2-11

Type: Annual/Perennial

Blanket Flower

These cheerful, long-blooming flowers consist of red petals tipped with yellow which makes it easy to see how they got their name. Add them to your garden and you’ll have a great option for both summer themed containers and bouquets.

Best for Plant Hardiness Zone: 3-11

Type: Perennial

Verbena

This spreading flower comes in several colors and is ideal for spaces where you want to create a cascading appearance. Plant them in flower boxes, pots, and on retaining walls to get countless clusters of these beauties all season long.

Best for Plant Hardiness Zone: 7-9

Type: Annual/Perennial

Zinnia

Zinnias are a cheap way to add some stunning color to your garden in just a few weeks. They attract butterflies, so expect to see some new friends in your garden. Like most summer flowers, these do best in full sunshine.

Best for Plant Hardiness Zone: 2-11

Type: Annual

Hibiscus

The hibiscus is a classic flower that can grow surprisingly large. They bring a tropical look to your yard even if you don’t necessarily live in a tropical climate. This plant will require space and plenty of water in order to thrive.

Best for Plant Hardiness Zone: 6-11

Type: Perennial

Globe Amaranth

This summer favorite will provide pom-pom like flowers in purple, red, and white all the way into late fall. This plant is not fussy and will do well in a variety of soils and moisture levels, so plant away and let it work it’s magic.

Best for Plant Hardiness Zone: 2-11

Type: Annual

Purple Coneflower

This attractive flower grows incredibly fast and will attract birds and butterflies to your garden. The coneflower also spreads easily so you’ll want to give it some space to grow. Once you do, you won’t regret it.

Best for Plant Hardiness Zone: 3-9

Type: Perennial

We hope this list provides you with some inspiration to add some liveliness to your summer garden this year. Happy gardening!

Note: You can view the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map here.

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