June bearing strawberry plants

Strawberries

EARLIGLOW

JUNEBEARING- Early excellent flavor. SPRING SHIP ONLY. (zone 4-8)

Price Per Bundle Per 25 Per 100 Per 500
JUNEBEARING
$ 16.00 $ 39.00 $ 195.00

HONEOYE

JUNEBEARING- Early very large berry, good flavor. SPRING SHIP ONLY. (zone 3-8)

Price Per Bundle Per 25 Per 100 Per 500
$ 16.00 $ 39.00 $ 195.00

ALL STAR

JUNEBEARING- Very large fruit, midseason – very good flavor. SPRING SHIP ONLY. (zone 4-8)

Price Per Bundle Per 25 Per 100 Per 500
$ 16.00 $ 39.00 $ 195.00

SPARKLE

JUNEBEARING- Midseason, medium size, excellent flavor. SPRING SHIP ONLY. (zone 3-8)

Price Per Bundle Per 25 Per 100 Per 500
$ 16.00 $ 39.00 $ 195.00

JEWEL

JUNEBEARING- Midseason , large, firm berry, very good flavor. SPRING SHIP ONLY. (zone 4-8)

Price Per Bundle Per 25 Per 100 Per 500
$ 16.00 $ 39.00 $ 195.00

ALBION

EVERBEARING- Very large fruit, excellent flavor. SPRING SHIP ONLY. (zone 4-8)

Price Per Bundle Per 25 Per 100 Per 500
EVERBEARING
$ 21.50 $ 41.00 $ 205.00

SEASCAPE

EVERBEARING- The berries are very large, firm, and have a good flavor. Heavy producer. SPRING SHIP ONLY. (zone 4-9)

Price Per Bundle Per 25 Per 100 Per 500
$ 21.50 $ 41.00 $ 205.00

SAN ANDREAS

EVERBEARING- An early, large berry with good flavor. Good for freezing. SPRING SHIP ONLY. (zone 4-7)

Price Per Bundle Per 25 Per 100 Per 500
$ 21.50 $ 41.00 $ 205.00

QUINAULT

EVERBEARING. NEW! Produces large, sweet berries on unrooted runners. High yields. (zone 4-8)

Price Per Bundle Per 25 Per 100 Per 500
$ 21.50 $ 41.00 $ 205.00

PINEBERRY

EVERBEARING- NEW! White Carolina variety. A hybrid of 2 strawberry varieties that created this unique white to pale pink or pale orange berry with a pineapple-like aroma and flavor. Does best when planted near an everbearing strawberry variety. (zone 4-9)

Price Per Bundle Per 25 Per 100 Per 500
$ 21.50 $ 41.00 $ 205.00

June-Bearing Strawberry Info – What Makes A Strawberry June-Bearing

June-bearing strawberry plants are extremely popular because of their excellent fruit quality and production. They are also the most common strawberries grown for commercial use. However, many gardeners wonder exactly what makes a strawberry June-bearing? Distinguishing between everbearing or June-bearing strawberries can be difficult because the plants don’t actually look any different. It is actually their fruit production that sets them apart. Continue reading for more June-bearing strawberry info.

What are June-Bearing Strawberries?

June-bearing strawberry plants usually only produce one vigorous crop of large, sweet juicy strawberries in spring to early summer. That being said, the plants usually produce little to no fruit in their first growing season. Because of this, gardeners usually pinch back any flowers and runners, allowing the plant to put all its energy into healthy root development in the first season.

June-bearing strawberries form flower buds in late summer to early fall when day length is less than 10 hours per day. These flowers bloom in early spring, then produce an abundance of large, juicy berries in spring. When to pick June-bearing strawberries is during this two-three week period in late spring to early summer, when fruits ripen.

Because June-bearing strawberry plants bloom and fruit so early in the season, fruits can be damaged or killed by late spring frosts in cooler climates. Cold frames or row covers can help prevent frost damage. Many gardeners in cooler climates will grow both everbearing and June-bearing plants to ensure that they will have harvestable fruit. June-bearing plants are more heat tolerant than everbearing strawberries, though, so they tend to do better in climates with hot summers.

How to Grow June-Bearing Strawberry Plants

June-bearing strawberries are usually planted in rows that are 4 feet (1.2 m.) apart, with each plant spaced 18 inches (46 cm.) apart. Straw mulch is placed under and around plants to keep fruits from touching the soil, to retain soil moisture and to keep weeds down.

Strawberry plants require about an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week during the growing season. During flower and fruit production, June-bearing strawberry plants should be fertilized every two weeks with a 10-10-10 fertilizer for fruits and vegetables, or a slow release fertilizer can be applied early in spring.

Some popular varieties of June-bearing strawberries are:

  • Earligrow
  • Annapolis
  • Honeoye
  • Delmarvel
  • Seneca
  • Jewel
  • Kent
  • Allstar

Renovation of June-bearing Strawberries

A June-bearing strawberry planting can be productive for several years if the bed is given good care. One important task is to renovate June-bearing strawberries immediately after the last harvest. The renovation process involves leaf removal, creation of 8-inch-wide plant strips, and fertilization. After the initial renovation steps have been completed, irrigation and weed control are necessary throughout the remainder of the growing season.

Start the renovation of June-bearing strawberries by mowing off the leaves 1 inch above the crowns of the plants with a rotary mower within 1 week of the last harvest. (Do not mow the strawberry bed after this one week period as later mowing destroys new leaf growth.) To aid in disease control, rake and remove the plant debris.

June-bearing strawberries are most productive when grown in 2-foot-wide matted rows. If the strawberry planting has become a solid bed several feet wide, renovate the planting by creating 8-inch-wide plant strips with a rototiller or hoe. Space the plant strips about 3 feet apart. June- bearing strawberries grown in rows should also be renovated. Narrow the rows to 8-inch-wide strips by removing the older plants, while retaining the younger ones. After renovation, the strawberry plants will develop runners and eventually form a 2-foot-wide matted row of plants by the end of summer.

Fertilization is the next step in renovation. Apply approximately 5 pounds of a 10-10-10 or similar analysis fertilizer per 100 feet of row to encourage plant growth and development.

Strawberries require 1 inch of water per week throughout the growing season. After renovation, irrigate the strawberry planting weekly during dry weather. Adequate moisture promotes plant growth and helps insure optimal fruit production next season as the flower buds of June-bearing strawberries develop in late summer and early fall.

Weed control through the summer months is also essential. Weeds compete with the strawberry plants for water, nutrients, and sunlight. Cultivation is the most practical control for home gardeners. Control weeds with frequent, light cultivation. Some hand weeding will also be necessary. Dacthal, a preemergence herbicide, may be applied during renovation to aid in control of annual grasses and some broadleaf weeds. Gardeners can also apply a layer of straw between plant rows to help control weeds.

Some June-bearing strawberry varieties are extremely vigorous, producing runners beyond the 2-foot-wide matted row. These runners should be placed back within the 2-foot row or removed to prevent the planting from becoming a solid mat of plants.

June-bearing strawberry plantings that are well-maintained and renovated annually should remain productive for 4 or 5 years. Poorly managed beds may be productive for only 1 or 2 years.

When berry size and numbers begin to decline, it’s time to start planning for a new strawberry bed. Renovate the current strawberry planting one last time. After renovation, select a site for a new planting next spring. When selecting a planting site, choose a site with good soil drainage. Also, select a site where strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants have not been grown within the last 3 years to minimize the risk of Verticillium wilt, red stele, and other diseases. After the site has been chosen, begin preparing the site for next spring’s planting. Early preparation allows sufficient time to control perennial weeds and amend the soil if necessary. Plant the new strawberry bed next spring (late March or April). Destroy the old planting after next season’s last harvest.

This article originally appeared in the June 12, 1998 issue, pp. 73-74.

PLANTING IN THE GARDEN

We recommend one of these two successful planting systems:
• THE HILL SYSTEM
• THE MATTED ROW SYSTEM

THE HILL SYSTEM is generally is the best system for DAY-NEUTRAL and EVERBEARING strawberries because they produce relatively few runners. After preparing the soil, make mounded rows about 6-9 inches tall and 1-2 feet apart. Plant the strawberry starts 12-15 inches apart in the mounded rows. Maintenance consists of simply removing all the runners that grow between the rows before they root. The idea is that by removing the “baby” plants (runners) the mother plant can focus on making bigger and better fruit. Runners can be rooted in another spot or put into the compost bin.

THE MATTED ROW SYSTEM is generally best for JUNE-BEARING strawberries, which produce ample runners. Plant the strawberry starts 1 foot apart in rows 3-4 feet apart. Then allow many of the runners to spread and fill in the rows, without letting the runners grow too densely (the foliage of the plants need as much sun and air as possible). Pruning out excess runners and foliage will likely be necessary.

PLANTING IN CONTAINERS

Strawberry plants do very well in all types of containers: plastic, wood, ceramic, or terra cotta. You can even build your own strawberry planter, as shown by our friend Kirsten Dunn on the Dunn DIY blog. Whichever container you choose, be sure it has drainage holes. Strawberries do not like wet feet.

Simply fill the container with high-quality potting soil and an all-purpose or small-fruit fertilizer, following package directions. Plant one strawberry plant for every 10-12 inches of pot diameter. Strawberries have a spreading habit and shallow roots, so an extremely deep container is not necessary, but choose containers at least 6-8 inches tall. If you prefer a fuller look in your container right away, plant more densely but divide the plants after one year so they don’t become overcrowded and underperform.

Living

While June-bearing strawberries are harvested over a relatively short period of time in early summer, the group can be divided into early-, mid- and late-season varieties. By selecting two or three varieties, the gardener can extend the season over several weeks. While Nourse Farms in Whately, Mass., one of New England’s largest grower of small fruit plants for home gardens, lists 26 varieties of June-bearing strawberry, Handley, in his lecture, pruned his recommendations for Maine gardens to the following eight, listed from earliest to latest in terms of harvest period. (Comments on flavor and disease resistance are from Nourse’s online catalog, http://noursefarms.com/category/strawberries).

Variety, harvest period, berry size, flavor, resistance

Wendy, early season, large, excellent, red stele

Annapolis, early season, large, good, red stele

Sable

Cavendish, early midseason, large, excellent, red stele, verticillium wilt

Allstar, midseason, large, good, red stele

Mesabi, midseason, large, excellent, red stele

Sparkle, late midseason, medium, excellent, red stele

Valley Sunset, late season, large, good, leaf diseases

A more comprehensive list of varieties can be found on a University of Maine Cooperative Extension publication, “Strawberry Varieties for Maine,” also written by Dr. Handley.

Disease resistance in an important factor in selection of strawberry varieties. Red stele, a root-rot fungus, is a common disease organisms in many soils, particularly those with poor drainage, and resistant plants are the best way to combat this problem. Nonresistant varieties could experience a total crop loss in wet years.

Verticillium wilt is another potentially devastating strawberry disease carried over in the soil from previous susceptible crops such as tomato and potato. The disease organism can persist in wet soils for several years.

For my taste, and Marjorie’s, flavor is the primary factor. We grow Sparkle, not the largest of berries but definitely one of the sweetest. The distinction between “excellent” and “good”, when it comes to flavor, is sugar content.

Additional helpful hints include:

• Consider growing at least two varieties, particularly if one is an early-ripening variety that will be more susceptible to late frost injury to the flowers, resulting in reduced yield in some years.

• Get your order in as order as possible to guarantee availability of the varieties you want.

• Before placing your order, make sure that the plants you are buying are from “certified virus-free stock.”

Next week: Everything you need to know about strawberry culture.

Speaking of berries, the University of Maine Cooperative Extension and its Master Gardener Development Board is conducting an online high-bush blueberry plant sale to raise funds for the Master Gardener Volunteers program. If you are interested in growing high-bush blueberries, don’t miss this unique opportunity to not only purchase quality plants but also receive three years of expert advise to ensure your success with those plants.

I know that many of my readers are aware of the good work conducted by Master Gardener Volunteers in our communities, including helping new gardeners achieve success, managing community gardens that support Maine Harvest for the Hungry, coordinating countywide food drives, serving as curators and caretakers of public gardens, educating the public about eradication of invasive plant species and landscaping with native species and fostering sound, chemical-free gardening practices. This blueberry plant sale is an opportunity to support this good work. Here’s the deal:

“For $35.95, you can purchase a set of three high-bush blueberry plants hardy to Maine’s climate. These young healthy plants will be available for pick-up on Saturday, May 19, at your designated choice of six University of Maine Cooperative Extension locations . Each set of three plants will contain at least two different varieties to ensure good cross-pollination. They are well-rooted 3-by-7-inch plugs with roughly 17 inches in shoot height, ready to go in the ground and take off. The plants should bear a small crop of fruit by their third year, and be in full production by their fourth year. Within 4-6 years each plant should attain a mature height and breadth of up to 6 inches by 6 inches. The deadline to order is April 30.

“With your plant purchase you’ll receive a special code for a $5 discount at the UMaine soil testing lab for your blueberry planting site. Over the next three years, you’ll receive systematic, timely expert advice (by email and Web links) on growing blueberries at every stage. Our specially developed website will provide you with fact sheets and instructional videos on how to choose your planting site, test and amend your soil and plant, prune and harvest your blueberries. As your plants begin to bear fruit, our website will provide you with healthy recipes, nutritional information and instructions on how you can preserve your harvest. We invite you to join us — enjoy fresh blueberries, new knowledge and a contribution to others, through your purchase. Learn, grow, eat, give!”

For more information and to order, visit http://umaine.edu/gardening/go-blueberry.

Indiana Berry

Cultivate the soil several times 2 weeks prior to planting to eliminate weeds. Each time you do this you will eliminate many freshly germinated weeds. It is best to plant strawberries as early in the spring as the soil is workable. Cold temperatures are unlikely to damage dormant plants. Typical time of planting times is from February to early April in the south, March, and April in the northern states. If you order plants by mail and received in before you were ready or weather conditions are not ideal, as long as you set the box on a cool dark place such as basement or garage they should be okay for 7-10 days. Plants will keep up to 4 weeks if kept at 35 degrees. The surface mold may appear but this will not harm the plants. Check moisture levels of the roots frequently. If the roots are dry, you will need to mist them but be careful not to over water them, as this can lead to mold problems. Plant on planting when weather is cloudy and cool to prevent roots from drying out. Remove most of the old leaves from each plant. Use a trowel to make a hole by pressing it back and tipping to both sides. Spread the roots carefully and firm the soil around the roots. Set the plants at the correct depth. Do not trim roots and do not bend roots to fit into the hole. The base of the crown should be at the level of the soil surface. Plants too deep will smother and die; plants too high will dry out. Spread the roots and carefully firm the soil around the roots leaving no air pockets. If the soil is dry, pour a pint of water around each plant. DO NOT FERTILIZE AT TIME OF PLANTING. You should see new green growth in 7-10 days.
June Bearers – remove flowers the first year to eliminate fruiting. This will encourage more runners the first year.

Once runners begin to form make sure the new plant on the end is kept in contact with the soil in order for roots to grow. Place the new plants that form approximately 6″ apart in the rows. Crowding will produce small fruit so do not allow your planting to overpopulate and form a solid bed.

Proper planting method (A) and improper methods (B, C, D) for strawberry planting. At B the crown is too deep, at C the crown is too high and at D the roots are bend and remain near the surface. The time taken to get the roots all covered is critical. Plants will not live with roots exposed.

June Bearers in Traditional
Matted Row Culture 1st Year Care – Set Plants 1 to 2 Feet Apart Within The Row
The objective the first year is to establish a good row of plants. Approximately 30 days after planting the plant will produce flowers. These flowers should be pinched or cut off. Do not pull them off. Removing the flowers prohibits the plats from fruiting and as a result, encourages more runners earlier in the season – setting the stage for a higher yielding crop the second year. These runners need to be pulled into the row and then they “peg” or grow roots and become new plants. To properly peg a new plant you may have to help it by digging through the straw mulch and press the runner tip into the ground. The runner will only root when it comes in contact with the soil. These new plants are what will produce fruit next year. You should try to place a new plant every 6″ in every direction in a matted row that is 12 to 18 inches wide. Allowing plants to be closer than 6″ will crowd the plants which will result in smaller fruit. Remove all new runners that from after mid-August as these will not have time to peg and produce a good plant. DO NOT ALLOW YOUR BED TO OVER POPULATE. Keep weeds under control. Unfortunately, the best way to do this is by hand and hoe. In the late fall, after 3 hard frosts or a hard freeze, you should cover your planting with a straw mulch. This is typically around Thanksgiving in northern Indiana. This protects the plants from extreme winter cold as well as moderating the temperature to stabilize the plant’s environment. Mulch the plants by shaking the straw evenly over the row until you can no longer see any of the green of the plant through the covering of straw.

Second Year – 1st Fruiting Year
Remove the straw mulch in early spring (when growth starts) DO NOT ALLOW PLANTS TO TURN YELLOW UNDER THE STRAW. Remove the straw by parting it slightly allowing for a narrow row 12 to 18 inches wide to grow up through the mulch. Keeping the parted straw up against the narrow row will allow the fruit to sit on a straw bed while ripening. This will create a barrier to protect the fruit from splashing dirt. This is important as many of the fruit rots come from the soil. The thick straw mulch between rows will also help in weed control.
DO NOT APPLY ANY FERTILIZER IN THE SPRING as it will soften the fruit.
Spring frosts can often kill the blossoms, Even a light frost can have a devastating effect on yield. Remember to cover or protect your patch in some way just as you might sensitive flowers or tomato plants. Small green fruit is seldom damaged by frosts. Keep the planting well watered (1″ per week) while the crop is maturing.
As berries ripen, keep them picked. Allowing overripe fruit to remain in the patch can attract beetles that will become a nuisance. Go over the patch every 2 to 3 days picking the fruit at maximum ripeness. It is normal for berry size to decrease as the season progresses. The later fruit is smaller but the flavor is usually great and these make great jam and freezer berries.
Fertilize The first season after new growth starts(when runners start) side dress with 1 lb per 100 square feet. In Mid-August side dress with 1 lb per 100 square feet.
2nd year and subsequent years after, broadcast with 2-3 lbs of fertilizer at renovation and in Mid-August side dress with 1 lb per 100 square feet.
CAUTION; MAKE SURE FERTILIZER DOES NOT LODGE ON THE LEAVES; FERTILIZER CAN BE SWEPT OFF THE PLANTS, THIS IS NECESSARY TO PROTECT THE PLANTS FROM LEAF BURN.
How To Renovate A crucial step in maintaining a productive berry patch is renovating. This is a 3 steps process performed each year as soon after harvest as possible that rejuvenates your planting and is essential if you want to have a long-lived productive patch.
Step 1: Set the mower blade on your lawn mower at a setting that will remove the leaves from the strawberry plant but won’t damage the crowns. Trimming off the old leaves will decrease the disease problems for the rest of the summer. If this step is delayed and runners begin to grow, skip this step. Waiting too long to mow off the leaves will damage next year’s yield.
Step 2: Lightly fertilize your patch with a balanced 12-12-12 fertilizer at 2 lbs per 100 square feet.
Step 3: Till between the rows narrowing down the row to 10 to 12 inches. This is very hard for many people as they think they are destroying their patch. Thinning or narrowing the row will keep your plants healthy and productive by allowing more sunlight and airflow throughout the row. After renovation, keep your planting free of weeds and mulch with straw in the fall. Repeat each year for many years of great strawberries. Once you see a significant decrease in yield from one year to the next it is time to replant. For some people this is every 3 years but for others, it can be every 5 to 7 years.

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Growing Strawberries

Everybody’s hungry for fresh fruit by late spring, which is why growing strawberries is irresistible — especially early-bearing varieties. There are two types: June-bearers, which produce their crop for three weeks in late spring or early summer, and ever-bearers, which set fruit from spring to fall. Bill and Sheila Krohne, owners of Krohne Plant Farms in Hartford, Mich., think June-bearing varieties produce better quality berries. The leader of the pack is “Earliglow,” which Bill says is the sweetest, best-flavored strawberry he sells. June-bearing strawberries can produce up to a quart of fruit per plant. Fertilize in early spring, just as the plants show vigorous new growth, and your strawberries will be off and running.

June-bearing strawberries produce lots of runners, so rows quickly become a tangle of plants. To capitalize on this habit, manage the plants as a ground cover. Then mow the tattered foliage down in midsummer, and mulch between plants.

Ever-bearing strawberries, which include most strawberries sold for container growing, produce fruit from spring to fall as long as they’re given attentive care. If you pinch off early-season blossoms and runners, these varieties can turn out a strong late-summer crop, or you can leave them unpinched and enjoy hunting for ripe berries whenever you’re in the mood. The constant emergence of new growth requires support from fertile soil, with a pH of 5.8 to 6.5, or regular fertilizer (like mix-with-water fish/kelp products), but ever-bearing strawberries are worth a little extra trouble. Newer varieties such as “Albion,” “Seascape” and “Evie 2” don’t produce many runners, which makes them easy to manage in containers or in cushy pockets in a stone wall. The Krohnes especially like “Albion,” which they think is almost as good as “Earliglow.”

More Information on Strawberries

Preferred soil pH for strawberries is 5.8 to 6.5.

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View the strawberry types chart for details on the best varieties of June-bearing and ever-bearing strawberries, plus pros and cons of each, as well as information on where they grow best.

Find strawberry seeds and plants with our Seed and Plant Finder.

To learn how to use currants in your home landscape, check out the new book Landscaping with Fruit by Lee Reich (Tower, 2009).

See also:

Now in: Strawberry Plants

It’s the best time of year to plant your strawberry plants! Our selection is unbeatable this year with many of Uncle Mike’s favorites. Grown locally in our Woburn greenhouses, our strawberry varieties have been selected for their great performance in our New England garden. Strawberries grow best in full sun and are grouped into two categories: June-bearing and Ever-bearing. June-Bearing Strawberries produce a single, large crop per year during a 2-3 week period in late Spring. These traditionally grown strawberry plants produce a single flush of flowers before berries and many runners. They are classified in early, mid and late varieties. Our favorite is the All-Star variety for their taste and resistance to disease. Because they produce runners, they need more room in the garden and can make a great ground-cover.

Ever-bearing Strawberry plants produce fruit throughout the entire growing season. Beginning in Spring, with intermittent crops throughout summer and fall. They don’t send out many runners, which makes them great for containers or hanging baskets. Day-Neutral Strawberries – similar to ever-bearing, also send out few runners and have a continuous crop all season long vs. intermittent.

‘Ozark Beauty’

This day-neutral strawberry is famous for its large yields of bright red, usually large berries. Produces from June – September. They deliver fruit all summer with a large initial harvest and a steady crop the rest of the season.

‘Quinault’

Quinault is a terrific variety for containers. It is everbearing, and produces amazingly large and sweet strawberries. Very disease resistant!

‘Montana’

Strawberry Montana is a later addition to the strawberry varieties. Produces an abundance of conically-shaped medium-large fruits for the whole summer. Flavor is sweet. Everbearing.

‘Gasana’

Ideal for small containers and window boxes, Gasana has a compact growth habit with beautiful pink flowers. The flowers produce small to medium, conical berries with excellent flavor. Everbearing.

‘Delizz’

An all-American Selection in 2016! Easy to grow and vigorous, Delizz is a prolific producer of smaller, tasty strawberries all season long. Delizz is “day-neutral” vs everbearing. Modern day-neutral strawberries were developed to produce continuously all summer and into the fall. In contrast, traditional everbearing produces two to three separate crops each growing season.

“All-Star”

All Star produces a very high yield of extra sweet, juicy berries in mid-late season. Usually late Spring and Early Summer here in New England – hence Junebearing. They are vigorous plants and very resistant to disease! Plant with everbearing varieties for a even more enjoyment.

Alpine Strawberry

Alpine Strawberries are small fruits with wonderfully sweet taste. Extremely prolific, alpine strawberries don’t look like your typical grocery store strawberry fruit. Looking like a wild cultivar, alpines bear fruit throughout the season with production peaking in mid summer. Because of their wildflower tendancies, apline strawberries are often used as ground cover because of their vigorous spreading habits.

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