Jasmine leaves turning yellow

Originally Published by Sandra Mason 08/28/2007

According to plants, green is “in”. Gardeners, however, add plants known for everything but green. In the gardening world purple or yellow colored leaves are “in”. Sometimes a change in leaf color can be an indication of nutrient or environmental problems. If your green plants are now yellow, chlorosis may be the issue with the tissue.

Abnormal yellowing of leaf tissue is called chlorosis. Leaves lack the essential green pigment chlorophyll. Possible causes include poor drainage, damaged roots, compacted roots, high soil pH, and nutrient deficiencies in the plant according to James Schuster University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

Nutrient deficiencies may occur due to insufficient amount in the soil or because the nutrients are unavailable due to high pH soil. Or nutrients may not be absorbed due to injured roots or poor root growth. Plant requirements also vary in the amount of 17 essential nutrients needed.

Herbaceous and woody plants are susceptible to chlorosis. It usually starts as lighter green tissue between darker green leaf veins. Not only does the plant look unattractive, but leaves or entire plant may be stunted and may fail to produce flowers and fruit. In addition, chlorotic leaves are more prone to scorching and leaf diseases. With severe chlorosis the leaves, affected branch, or entire plant may die.

The most common nutrient problem associated with chlorosis is lack of iron, but yellowing may also be caused by manganese, zinc, or nitrogen deficiencies.

According to Schuster one way to separate iron deficiency from other deficiencies is to determine what foliage turned yellow first. Iron deficiency starts on young terminal leaves and later works inward to the older leaves. However, deficiencies in manganese, zinc or nitrogen develop on inner or older leaves first and then progress outward.

Treatment for chlorosis varies depending on the plant and the cause.

Rule out or correct problems due to soil compaction, poor drainage, poor root growth, or root injury. Core aerification, tiling, mulching, or some other cultural practice may be needed.

Nutrient deficiencies can be treated in one of several ways.

Get a soil test to determine soil pH and nutrient levels. Iron becomes more insoluble and less available to plants as soil pH goes above 6.5 to 6.7 . Plants such as blueberries, rhododendrons, azaleas, and pin oaks have a high need for iron, hence their acidic soil requirement.

High amounts of other elements such as calcium, zinc, manganese, phosphorus, or copper in the soil can make iron unavailable to the plant. A shortage of potassium in the plant will also reduce iron availability. Insufficient iron in the soil may also be the cause. Based on a soil test, the pH can be lowered by adding sulfur or the appropriate nutrients can be applied.

Foliar applications of water-soluble or chelated nutrients can temporarily correct the problem. However it only helps the leaves present during application. Several treatments per growing season may be necessary to keep the foliage green.

For trees with moderate to severe chlorosis another method is trunk application. It is quick and may last several years. However, it may take 30 days for the tree to respond. There are two ways to apply nutrients via the trunk. Both methods involve drilling holes in the trunk–the number of holes is based on trunk diameter.

With the first type of application, containers with tubes are then inserted into the holes. The tree’s movement of moisture draws the nutrients into the trunk. After the containers are empty, they are removed and holes are plugged. With the other method plastic capsules are hammered into the drilled holes. In both cases, hire a certified arborist.

Yellow Plant Leaves

Chlorosis is a systemic condition in which a plant’s leaves turn yellow. There can be many explanations for this condition.


There are some plants which are supposed to have all or partly yellow leaves. If the leaves are mostly green with a yellow (or white) border or mostly yellow with a green border we say that the leaf/plant is variegated. If most of the leaves display this coloration, it is a normal, genetic variation. Examples of such plants are: Daphne, some Hosta, Crème de Mint Pittosporum, Pittosporum Tobira ‘Variegate’, Glacier Ivy, Variegated Vinca minor, and many others. Sunset Gold Coleonema has entirely yellow foliage but that’s the way it is supposed to be.


Occasionally, a plant will develop yellow spots, or circles, or lines, on its leaves. These discolorations are not uniform or similar on all of the leaves and if you hold the leaf up to the light, the discolorations are more apparent.

These yellow discolorations are likely caused by a virus. Plants commonly affected, but usually not harmed are: Flowering Maple, Roses, Dwarf Nandina, Camellias, and Apple Trees. There is no cure for virus disease in a plant and it can be spread by insects, grafting or on pruning shears. Stressed plants (low temperatures or lack of water) often display more pronounced symptoms. Other viruses such as Tobacco Mosaic Virus can infect and kill Nictotiana plants, petunias, Potatoes, Tomatoes, and even Peppers. Again, the first symptoms are yellow leaves or leaves with yellow spots.


Diseases such as Rose Rust and Blackspot often start on leaves as yellow spots with black centers. These yellow spots enlarge and merge until the entire leaf is infected and yellow and then falls off. These diseases are best prevented by spraying prophylactically with a fungicide when the new leaves are one-half to three-quarters inch long and then monthly before the plant becomes infected with the disease.


Senescence refers to the changes which take place in a plant or other organism as it ages and nears the end of a particular life cycle. In a tree or shrub, this is most commonly seen in its leaves. In deciduous trees, senescence occurs in the fall on a yearly basis. The leaves on Birches, Ginkgoes, Coral Bark Maples and many other trees turn yellow and drop off each year as the growing season comes to an end. The tree does not die, but each individual leaf does.

Leaves are extremely complex food factories. The green color of the chlorophyll in the leaves is so dense that it masks two other leaf pigments; orange carotenes and yellow zanthophylls. As the days get shorter, the chlorophyll slowly breaks down and the other pigment colors show up producing the autumn colors of fall. Reds, blues and purples are produced by a different process when sugar stored in the leaves is converted to a pigment called anthocyanin. Leaf colors are genetically determined so not all leaves have all colors.

Evergreen plants such as Gardenias, Citrus, Avocado, Pittosporum, and others have green leaves all year long and so are called broad-leaved evergreen plants (as opposed to coniferous evergreens such as Spruce or Pine trees). Even though the broad-leaved evergreens are continuously green, each individual leaf has a life span of about two years. After two years or so, the leaf turns yellow and falls off the bush or tree. Simply put, the leaf gets old and dies and falls off. Senescence is usually most evident in Citrus and Gardenia plants, occurring in late spring or early summer. The oldest leaves are usually those closest to the trunk of the tree. As the leaves age, the minerals and nutrients in the leaf translocate and circle back into the stem and on into the new leaves at the tip of the stem. The old leaf then turns yellow, dies and drops off. This event can be quite dramatic when hundreds of leaves turn yellow and fall off the tree within a few weeks time. Often, the home gardener suspects a catastrophic event when it is a perfectly normal part of the plant’s life cycle. Nothing needs to be done to stop this event because it can’t be stopped. Always examine the new growth at the tips of plants. If it is a bright green, the plant is functioning normally.


Many plants in the Bay Area are chlorotic; their leaves lack the deep dark green of healthy vigorous plants. When a leaf is plucked from this plant and held up to the light, the veins appear dark green but the area between the veins is a lighter green. This form of chlorosis is one of the most common symptoms of Iron or Nitrogen deficiency. For gardeners not familiar with our Bay Area soil, their solution is to dump quantities of some Iron product into the soil around the plant. When the plant does not respond with a strong, dark green color, the conclusion is that an incorrect diagnosis was made. Gardeners working in Bay Area soils are familiar with heavy clay soils or in the hills, with soils full of green rock (serpentine). Both of these soils are very alkaline which is not a healthy situation for plants. Soils and water are measured for acidity or alkalinity on a chemistry scale called pH. A pH of zero (0) is the most acidic a solution can be while a pH of fourteen (14) is the most alkaline (basic) a solution can be. A solution of pH7 is neutral; neither acid nor alkaline. Anything below 7 is acidic and above 7 is alkaline. A pH change of 1 unit (7 to 6 or 7 to 8) is a tenfold change. A two unit change (10×10) is a 100 fold change. Clay soils (old ocean bottom) are very rich soils and contain all the minerals a plant might need. However, for the plants to use the minerals, they must be dissolved. Minerals dissolve in an acid environment but not in an alkaline one. Most plants grow best in a slightly acidic environment (about pH6.5). Rhododendrons, Camellias and Azaleas need a pH of about 6 and Blueberries between pH5 to 5.5. Unfortunately, clay soils and serpentine are alkaline with a pH of 7.5 to 8. Because the soil is alkaline, many minerals in the soil do not dissolve especially Iron and Nitrogen. Therefore, they are not available to the plants. The gardener can dump pounds of Iron on the soil but if it does not dissolve, it is of no value. To make matters worse, our water has a pH of 8.5 to 9 making it 100 to 500 times more alkaline than the plants can use.

The only way to adjust soil pH is to add sulfur to the soil or better yet, Iron Sulfate. The Sulfur combines with water in the soil and changes to sulfuric acid which adjusts the soil pH downward. All of the Master Nursery fertilizers contain both Iron and Sulfur (some more than others) and when used regularly help to provide a proper soil pH for the plants. Organic fertilizers contain little or no Iron or Sulfur and therefore must be supplemented to provide the proper pH for normal plant growth.

A final note of advice: Don’t plant dwarf Citrus trees close to the house foundation. The concrete foundation contains lime (very alkaline) which slowly leaches out into the soil increasing its pH. Mr. Ed visited a garden with a Meyer Lemon in such a location and with all of its leaves the color of lemon rind. Unfortunately, it was too late to reverse the condition and the plant soon died.

Yellowing Jasmine Foliage: Why Are Jasmine Leaves Turning Yellow

Jasmine is a gorgeous vining or shrubby plant that shines in good, well-drained soil and full sunlight, but happily adapts to less than perfect conditions. Although the plant is easy to grow, pests or environmental problems can cause yellow leaves on jasmine plants. Read on to learn about causes for jasmine leaves turning yellow and how to treat yellowing jasmine foliage.

Reasons for Jasmine Leaves Turning Yellow

Below are the most common issues to look at when a jasmine has yellow leaves.


Pests may be the culprits if your jasmine has yellow leaves. Rule out a pest infestation before you move on to more complicated troubleshooting. If you discover an infestation, treat the pests with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.

  • Scale – Scale is a tiny, sap-sucking pest that attaches itself to jasmine stems and leaves. Scale is recognized by its protective covering, which may be a waxy substance or a hard shell, depending on the type of scale.
  • Mealybugs – Mealybugs are tiny pests, easily recognized by a whitish covering that may be mealy, waxy or cottony. Like scale, the bug causes the leaves to turn yellow by sucking the sap from the foliage. If the plant is small, use a toothpick to pick off the masses by hand.
  • Spider Mites – Spider mites are yet another sap-sucking pest. The tiny, dot-like pests are difficult to spot with the native eye, but you will probably notice the telltale webbing on leaves. They are attracted to dry, dusty conditions, so be sure to water properly and keep the leaves clean.

Environmental Problems

Yellowing jasmine foliage can also come from issues within its growing environment, including cultural problems.

Nutrient Problems – Jasmine plants are susceptible to chlorosis, a condition that results when the plant lacks nutrients – usually iron. However, deficiencies in zinc and manganese can also cause chlorosis, which begins with stunted growth and pale green or yellowing leaves, depending on the severity of the deficiency. A foliar spray of chelated nutrients may improve the condition, but probably only temporarily. A soil test is the only sure way to determine soil deficiencies that may be responsible if jasmine leaves are yellow.

Improper Watering – It may sound contradictory, but both too much and too little water can cause yellow leaves on jasmine plants. Jasmine performs best in rich, organic, well-drained soil. The soil should be moist, but slightly dry soil is preferably to soggy, waterlogged soil, which can not only cause yellow leaves, but can kill the plant.

pH Problems – Yellowing jasmine foliage also occurs with poor soil conditions. Although jasmine is forgiving, it prefers acidic soil. If your soil is highly alkaline, this imbalance may cause yellow leaves. An application of sulfur or addition of woody organic matter can help balance the pH, but be sure to have your soil tested before you attempt to make corrections.

Arabian Jasmine : How to Grow & Care For Arabian Jasmine Plant

Continue reading below on Arabian Jasmine growing information and Arabian jasmine plant care for growing jasmine in pots, indoors and outdoors with attention to planting, watering, fertilization, and pests and diseases.
The instructions are the same for growing all types of jasmines including Arabian Grand Duke of Tuscany.

Arabian Jasmine Mogra Flower>

Arabian Jasmine (Jasminum sambac, olive family Oleaceae) is an evergreen shrub native to India, but is also planted in most tropical climates around the world. It is the national flower of Indonesia and the Philippines. Arabian jasmine is also called as Biblical Jasmine or mogra or mograw or motiya or yasmeen in India, sampaguita flower in Philippines and melati putih in Indonesia. It is among the best plants that help you sleep better

Arabian Jasmine Plant Information

Sampaguita flower is the general name of Jasminum sambac species including different names as Arabian jasmine, Philippine jasmine, Kampupot, Melati, Grand Duke of Tuscany and Pikake in Hawaii.

Arabian Jasmine Plant Types, Varieties of Jasmines

There are three main varieties or types of Arabian jasmine depending on the shape of leaves and flowers structure. These are

  1. Maid of Orleans: Single flowers with five rounded petals.
  2. (Bela) Belle of India: Single or semi-double or flowers with elongated petal, single and double flowers on the same plant.
  3. Grand Duke of Tuscany: Clusters of flowers (sometimes single flower). Only the central flower is truly double-rossete. Side flowers are semi-double, and like miniature roses.

Jasminum sambac grows like a shrub or a vine to a height of up to 3 m with a 1 m spread. The plant bears dark green glossy foliage and white flowers. I have seen Indian jasmine growing on fence, too dense producing thousands of flowers.
In flowers of some jasmine, like star jasmine and Chameli – Jasminum grandiflorum, the petals are thin, while there are multiple petalled Arabian Jasmine flowers, typically around 2.5 cm in diameter, which look like small white roses. The flower has more than five and in some varieties even nine petals.
The Arabian jasmine mogra flowers are borne in clusters with a minimum of three flowers, usually on the ends of branches. The flowers are white or yellow in color, some varieties can produce slightly reddish blooms.
The night blooming jasmine (growing night blooming jasmine) blooms only at night and are very fragrant. The fragrant flowers last for only one day once they have opened their petals.
The Arabian jasmine blooms for 6-9 months of the year. The flowers are used to produce some of the world’s most popular fragrances, scented tea and oil. The jasmine perfume is favorable of many people.
In Asian countries, many women put jasmine garland made up of buds and flowers for their hair adornments, symbolizing grace and elegance.
The fruits of Jasmines are berries that turn black when ripe.
You can maximize the growth of jasmine indoors in containers or outdoor in ground to get up to 9 months of fragrant flowers. I grow Jasmine bush in pots and outdoors in ground in Sydney, Australia.

Growing Arabian Jasmine Plant

Position For Growing Jasmine Plant: Growing Temperatures

The Jasmine shrub prefers full sun, at least 6 hour of sun light, but it will tolerate partially shaded conditions. It grows in intermediate to warm temperatures. Where the night temperature is below 0°C, the plant should be moved indoors. The Arabian jasmine can be grown in USDA hardiness zones 9 to 11. In USDA plant hardiness zones Zones 6 to 9, you can grow Winter Jasmine (J. nudiflorum), which can bloom during winter also. Common Jasmine (J. officinale) can be grown in Zones 7 to 10.

Soil for Arabian Jasmine Plant

The soil requirement is for all types of jasmine plants, viz.Grand Duke of Tuscany, Maid of Orleans and belle of India is the same.
Plant in a free draining rich soil by mixing two parts loam, two parts peat moss and one part river sand (garden soil). You can also add coconut coir or organic compost (making compost) into the soil to increase the moisture retention.

Planting Jasmine

  1. Buy a small plant from your local nursery or grow your own by propagating Jasmine from a cutting. Know how to propagate Arabian Jasmine from cuttings. If you bought the Arabian jasmine plant from a nursery, then you can transfer it to ground at any time.
  2. Dig a hole that is twice the size of the container of the plant. Once you put the plant in the hole, half fill it with the soil.
  3. Take out the jasmine plant from the container and place it in the hole.
  4. Fill the surrounding area with soil. Make a raised boundary of soil around the plant and fill with water.
  5. Put a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the plant.
  6. When grown, tie the stems to prevent from drooping and causing damage to flowers and plant.
  7. You can plant your Arabian Jasmine Mogra in a pot using the above mentioned soil. The pot should have good drainage with several holes. Keep newly re-potted plant in bright, indirect light for a few days.

How To Care For Arabian Jasmine Plant

Watering Jasmine Vine

Allow the soil to dry out before watering. Water Jasmine plant thoroughly until water comes out the drainage holes, but always keep the drip tray empty. Reduce the frequency of watering in winter.

Fertilizer For Arabian Jasmine Plant

The question is what kind of fertilizer should you use for a jasmine plant and when to fertilize a jasmine plant.

  1. When to fertilizer a Jasmine plant: Every month from spring to fall, feed your indoor jasmine plant with a liquid fertilizer high in potassium with the dilution as recommended on the label of the fertilizer. Give the liquid fertilizer in the soil and spray on the leaves also. Do not feed your jasmine plant if it is water-stressed. First water the plant and then feed. I feed my jasmine plant with comfrey tea fertilizer every time after flowers have finished. The comfrey tea, seaweed solution and compost are the best homemade fertilizersfor jasmine plant.
  2. Fertilizing the Outdoor Jasmine Vine
    Prune the Arabian jasmine plant in the winter before fertilization.
    If the jasmine plant is in ground, spread the fertilizer granules or powder on the soil up to the drip line and rack up. Water the soil deeply, to the top 6 inches. Fertilizer quarterly.

Sampaguita Jasmine Mogra Flowers Gajra

How To Prune Arabian Jasmine Vine

  1. You can prune the branches that extend between 6-8 feet. As flowers grow best on new branches, pruning in mid-summer will encourage the growth of new wood producing more flowers.
  2. If your plant is not flowering, you should trim the branches at the tips and give a liquid feed high in potassium to encourage new growth and flowering.This is the best way to flower your jasmine vine.
  3. I usually trim the branches after every flush of flowers.

Arabian Jasmine Pests and Diseases

  1. Jasmine plants can be affected by pests like aphids, caterpillars, mites and mealy bugs; and fungus diseases like powdery mildew and stem blight. These pests and diseases should be treated before they damage the plant, otherwise the jasmine buds will be turning brown.
  2. I control most of the jasmine problems by pruning and spraying some fungicide regularly.
  3. If your Arabian jasmine plant does not produce flowers then you should prune the plant and fertilize it. The new growth will produce jasmine buds at the tips of the new growth.

How to propagate Arabian jasmine plant video

growing Arabian jasmine from cuttings

  1. USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service: PLANTS Profile: Jasminum sambac, United States National Arboretum: USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map
  2. B.K. Banerji & A.K. Dwivedi. “Fragrant world of Jasmine”. Floriculture Today, National Botanical Research Institute, www.floriculturetoday.in/fragrant-world-of-jasmine.html
  3. Jasminum sambac (L.) Aiton: Arabian jasmine, PLANTS profile, Natural Resources Conservation Service, United States Department of Agriculture, plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=JASA
  4. Baby P. Skaria (2007). Aromatic Plants: Vol.01. Horticulture Science Series, Horticulture science 1. New India Publishing. p. 182. ISBN 978-81-89422-45-5


Anonymous July 23, 2014 7:53 AM Arabian jasmine is a beautiful flower. My plant is not growing properly. I will take care of my plant as suggested in this post.
Thanks! Tahsina Zannat October 18, 2015 2:38 PM no flower in my arabian jasmine plant. it get sunlight for 3 hours in a day. what do i do? P. Mehta October 20, 2015 8:17 AM 1. Cut the tips of the growing branches.
2. Apply some liquid feed high in potassium such as power feed, comfrey tea, etc. Anonymous February 14, 2016 7:49 AM The growth of my jasmine plant is very slow. What should I do? P. Mehta February 14, 2016 8:01 AM The growth of jasmine plant depends on proper soil and fertilization with potassium rich fertilizer. Trim the growing tips to encourage new growth and place the plant is sunny place. Shahzad Aziz March 28, 2016 4:26 AM My plants are 8 years old but the flowers not heavy. ..what should I use best fertilizer.sugest me Lekha Chitra May 29, 2016 10:04 PM My arabian jasmine is growing very healthy but the buds are turning brown even before they bloom..any suggestions? Suhaibu Ahamed September 23, 2016 1:33 PM Near your Jasmine plant burry a kiluvai tree it grows your jasmine tree. Actually kiluvai is a tamil name P. Mehta September 24, 2016 7:07 AM Prune the plant. Cut off all the growing branches at the tips and feed with a fertilizer high in potassium mixed with seaweed solution every fortnight. Unknown September 27, 2016 5:03 AM I just bought Arabian Jasmine (September 25 ) ,
My question is when is the best time to plant/transfer it to the ground after digging the hole and prepare it with the right soil? Thanks P. Mehta September 27, 2016 3:40 PM You can transfer it to the ground at any time, if there is no frost. Transfer the plant with without disturbing the roots. Feed the plant with seaweed solution. Anonymous October 04, 2016 12:50 PM Hi, can we leave the plant outside in the soil in the winter? I live in North Carolina which gets pretty hot in the summer but goes freezing in the winter during night times. P. Mehta October 04, 2016 4:42 PM Arabian jasmine plant van tolerate night temperatures during winter in USDA growing zones 9 to 11. North Carolina is probably in 5b to 8b zone so you need to bring the plant indoors. Sharkey April 10, 2017 10:44 AM I just bought an Arabian jasmine plant at Lowe’s in either a 3 or 5-gallon pot. I live in Zone 8b in NW FL. I have two other types of jasmine that are planted outdoors and that never freeze. However, I’m afraid to plant this one in the ground as we sometimes have harsher winters that we had this year. Since it gets so big, what size pot do you recommend putting this one in and will it need a trellis to climb? P. Mehta April 10, 2017 12:09 PM The Arabian jasmine are of different varieties, some may need a trellis and some may not. So keep the plant without a trellis to start with. When the plant grows, you will know if it needs a trellis. It is a good idea not to plant in a big pot in the begining. Change the plant to next size, when you see roots coming out at the bottom from drainage holes or after one year. Always use a free draining fertile soil containing cow manure or compost whenever you transplant into a next size pot. This way the plant will become root bound and in the roots in the fresh soil at each change. Also a larger pot with less roots may cause the root system to rot. Unknown May 01, 2017 5:37 AM What is best way to dry the flowers for tea? Geeta Chopra July 16, 2017 12:44 PM Hello sir, I have 3 jasmine plants, after initial transplant shock they startf to grow quite well and several buds were formed. However the flowers when bloomed were very weak, distorted and also fell off within a few hours. The leaves look very soft and there is no new growth on one of the plants. I have treated the plants with organic pesticide and fungicide and also trimmed the one which stopped growing. Can you please advise what could probably be the problem and how do I fix it. Any advise you may have will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. P. Mehta July 17, 2017 12:36 PM Of the jasmine plant is small and has lots of buds, then the life of flowers may be very less. Probably, the next flush of flowers will do better. Srilatha July 31, 2017 3:24 AM Hi sir. I got Arabian Jasmine plant last year and I re potted in big pot. It is giving new stems and long shoots and it is very healthy. problem is at one point it will stop with out buds(it grows up to beginning of the bud.but I don’t see any bud forming) P. Mehta July 31, 2017 6:23 AM Cut the growing end of all the stems. The new growth will produce many flowers. k8zone August 01, 2017 2:52 PM I live in cambodia. I grow my mogea Jasmine in November 2015 now my Jasmine plant are getting bigger and very long it grow like vine one of the branch reach 6 meter it claim on my terli. I am happy to see it get biger. my neighbor always ask why my mogra Jasmine are bigger…..sorry English is not my native language. S Wg August 03, 2017 6:49 PM Hello, I bought an Arabian jasmine 3 days ago from a nursery. There were a couple of leaves that were starting to turn yellow. Its soil was so dry, I gave it a good thorough water & let it drain & kept it in the yard where it gets full sun (8am – 9pm). Now, there are a couple more leaves that have started to turn yellow also. The weather here has been quite hot during the days (23-32 degrees Celsius) with relatively warm nights (15-20 degrees Celsius). Why are the leaves turning yellow? How can I help it maintain healthy green leaves? Please help! What am I doing wrong? P. Mehta August 04, 2017 7:14 PM Keep the plant damp. If it is too hot, keep the plant where it receives only the morning or evening direct sun. LuckyLefty May 12, 2018 8:04 PM Hello. Should I pluck the flowers as soon as they bloom or leave them on indefinitely? What is best practice? Thanks. P. Mehta May 13, 2018 7:55 AM You can pluck the jasmine flowers immediately if you want to use them, otherwise leave them on the plant. I remove them when they are finished/dried.

When it comes to plants, none conjures up more pleasant associations than jasmine.
Jasmine. Just say the word and you are transported to a faraway, exotic, sweet-smelling garden hideaway. Funny thing, though. Two of the most popular so-called jasmines are not jasmines at all. One is in the oleander family (Apocynaceae) and the other is in the potato family (Solanaceae).
Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides), botanical kin to oleander, vinca, plumeria and natal plum, is one of the most popular and versatile Valley plants. Presently covered with 1-inch white pinwheel flowers, star jasmine is most often used as a ground cover.
It also serves admirably as a vine in covering up unsightly chain link fences and block walls.
Native to China and somewhat acidic soil, star jasmine becomes chlorotic (develops yellow leaves with green veins) where soil is excessively alkaline. It also does best when protected from all-day Valley sun and should be well-soaked once a week in hot weather.
The highly sought night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum) brings scent and enchantment to summer evenings and, despite its need for both full sun and plenty of water, many people simply cannot live without it.
Of the true jasmines, vining pink jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum) will be most familiar to Valley gardeners. It yields giant clusters of flowers in early spring with petals that are pink on the outside and white on the inside.
Pink jasmine is most attractive during its first several years in the garden. After that it accumulates unsightly dead growth. You can spend hours removing brown leaves and stems or simply cut the plant back to within a foot or two of the ground, from where it will make a fresh start.
Angel-wing jasmine (Jasminum laurifolium nitidum) is one of my favorite plants. It grows in partial sun and flowers lengthily from spring through summer. Its leaves are shiny and yellow-green, resembling those of the xylosma bush. It is a durable shrub, even though it is less cold-hardy than other jasmines planted in Valley gardens.
Primrose jasmine (Jasminum mesnyi) and Italian jasmine (Jasminum humile) are tough plants with dull green leaves. Primrose jasmine is a sprawling species that blooms in winter and spring with popcorn flowers in yellow and white, while Italian jasmine produces yellow flowers all summer long.
Several other summer-blooming jasmines deserve consideration for Valley gardens. Spanish and common white jasmines (Jasminum officinale) — from which jasmine perfume is made — may lose their leaves in winter but more than compensate with the richness of their green foliage and scented flowers during hot weather.
South African jasmine (Jasminum angulare) has bigger, if less fragrant flowers, than those present on other jasmines; it has become increasingly popular as a large shrub or vining subject.
Finally, Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac) should be considered for container planting. Although cold-sensitive, this slow-growing jasmine is considered to be the most pleasingly fragrant by aroma experts. In the Valley, I have seen it flourish in containers placed in protected patio or balcony locations.
TIP OF THE WEEK: One of the most satisfying summer fragrances is that of the sweet olive (Osmanthus fragrans). The problem with this plant is its sparse growth habit and its reluctance, with age, to produce new foliage. Holly-leaf osmanthus (Osmanthus heterophyllus), on the other hand, has reliably lush green foliage that will remind you of holly. The flowers of both plants have an irresistible fruity-spicy scent.

Why Are Cannabis Leaves Turning Yellow?

by Nebula Haze

Are some or all of your cannabis leaves turning yellow? Maybe your leaves also have other symptoms like spots, curling, wilting, brown patches, etc. Marijuana plants may get yellowing leaves for several different reasons, so it can be hard to figure out the true root of the problem!

Today I’ll break down the 10 most common reasons your weed leaves turn yellow, and I’ll show you how to make your plant green again!

10 Most Common Reasons for Yellow Leaves

  1. Root pH
  2. Poor Watering Practices
  3. Nitrogen Deficiency
  4. Light Burn
  5. Heat Stress / Cold Shock
  6. Magnesium Deficiency
  7. Iron Deficiency
  8. Not Enough Light (Seedlings)
  9. Bugs or Pests
  10. Bud Rot

When Not to Worry (Pictures of Normal Yellow Leaves)

10 Causes of Yellow Leaves (From Most to Least Common)

Whether you’re growing in soil, coco coir or in hydroponics, probably the most common reason to see yellowing and other nutrient deficiencies is the pH near the roots is too high or too low. Cannabis plants have a difficult time absorbing nutrients when the pH is off, resulting in nutrient deficiencies even if the nutrients are actually present near the roots.


  • Yellow or other oddly colored leaves
  • Spots, stripes or patches
  • Burning around the edges of leaves
  • In fact, basically any nutrient deficiency can be triggered by incorrect pH!

How Do Growers Get It?

Growers who don’t make sure their pH stays in the right range will often run into nutrient deficiencies, even if they’re starting with a pure source of water and good soil!

  • Soil Optimum: 6-7 pH
  • Coco / Hydro Optimum: 5.5-6.5 pH

How to Fix

  • Use a kit or PH Pen to test the pH of water before you give it to your plants, and adjust if necessary by adding an acid or base to your water
  • Learn How to Fix Incorrect pH

These symptoms look like nutrient deficiencies but are actually caused by incorrect pH!

This is a deficiency, even though it looks a little like nutrient burn (too high levels of nutrients). The main clue is the yellow striping on the leaves. Another clue is the brown tips are going in further than typical nutrient burn.

Stripes on the leaves (click for close-up) indicates that this isn’t a Nitrogen deficiency, even though the symptoms are somewhat similar. In this case the symptoms were caused by the pH being way too high.

2.) Poor Watering Practices

It’s much more common to over-water than under-water cannabis plants, and the symptoms are very similar. In either case, the solution is to learn how to water your plants exactly the right amount at the right time!

Symptoms of Poor Watering Practices

  • Droopiness (it’s normal for plants to droop a little before the lights go out, but you know the drooping is a problem if it’s already happening at the beginning of their “day”).
  • Odd problems and symptoms from poor water practices including yellowing and sometimes other deficiencies.
  • Overwatering – leaves seem “fat” and swollen with water. Often you’ll have a feeling you may be overwatering your plant, especially if it’s a small plant in a large container.
  • Underwatering – leaves often seem “papery” and thin because they don’t have any water inside them. Chronic underwatering leads to overall yellowing and deficiencies.
  • Overwatering is most common with young plants since they still have small, weak root systems
  • You can hurt plants by giving too much or too little water at a time, and you can also cause persistent droopiness by watering too often or too infrequently
  • Bad soil with poor drainage can cause the symptoms of overwatering even if you’re watering the plants perfectly!
  • Small plants in big containers are easily over-watered
  • Big plants in small containers are easily under-watered
  • Growers who spend long periods away from their plants and/or don’t pay attention to their watering needs are much more likely to run into problems with droopiness!

How to Water Your Plants Correctly

  • Start with good soil or coco coir
  • Make sure plants are in the right size container for their size
  • If plants start drooping after you water them, you’re overwatering!
  • If drooping plants perk up after watering, you’re underwatering!
  • Learn how to water your plants perfectly every time!


Chronic overwatering can sometimes cause unusual deficiencies even if the pH is spot on, like this plant grown in muddy soil. The biggest sign that these symptoms are caused by overwatering and not pH (or something else) is that the plant is always droopy.

Another example of a deficiency that’s actually caused by overwatering (notice how this seedling is also droopy)

Chronic Underwatering (Relatively Rare)

Most growers tend to overwater – not underwater – their plants. However, if you’re spending long periods away from your plants or the containers are drying up in less than a day or two, it may mean that your plant needs to be watered more often, or be given more water at a time. It’s also more common to under-water when plants start overgrowing their pots.

It can be difficult to diagnose chronic underwatering because problems may look like nutrient deficiencies. Your main clue is that plants perk up every time after you water.

Learn more about underwatering

3.) Nitrogen Deficiency

  • Plants tend to be lime green or pale all over, even though the leaves appear healthy without stripes or spots
  • Yellow leaves tend to appear towards the bottom of the plant
  • Yellow leaves feel soft and are easily pulled off (in fact they usually fall on their own). If a leaf feels very stiff or is hard to pull out, that means it is not a Nitrogen deficiency
  • Affects plants which have “used up” the nutrients in the soil, which can happen after the plant has been the same container for several weeks or months.
  • Can happen in coco or hydro when the grower isn’t providing any extra nutrients (since there is no Nitrogen contained naturally in plain coco or water).
  • It is very unlikely you have a true Nitrogen deficiency if you’re providing your plants with the recommended amount of cannabis nutrients in the water.
  • Easily remedied by giving plants a regular base plant nutrient from basically any cannabis-friendly nutrient system
  • In soil, growers can transplant their plants to a new container with fresh soil (if they don’t want to add extra nutrients in the water).
  • Learn more about Nitrogen deficiencies

This plant is on the verge of a Nitrogen deficiency. This is indicated by its overall pale color, even though all the leaves look really healthy without any spots or stripes. Cannabis leaves should not be lime green or pale, or the plant tends to grow more slowly!

Here’s a close-up of a Nitrogen deficient leaf near the bottom of the plant. Nitrogen deficient leaves are soft and look/feel wilted.

If you have a Nitrogen deficiency, the yellow leaves will start falling off on their own

Did You Know? Oddly enough, too much Nitrogen can also cause yellow leaves, though the rest of the leaves will be clawed and a deep dark green instead of pale.

Too Much Nitrogen (Nitrogen Toxicity)

4.) Light Burn

  • Yellowing appears most on the parts of the plant closest to the light.
  • Yellow leaves do not pull out easily, even if the whole leaf is dead
  • Light burn often takes a few weeks to develop and is most common once the plant is past the 6th week of the flowering stage (when plants aren’t making many new leaves to replace old ones).

Cannabis light burn usually affects the top leaves closest to the grow light instead of affecting the plant evenly

  • Light burn is when your leaves are working too hard for too long, causing them to die early.
  • Even if the temperature is in a good range, your plant can still get light burn if the grow light is too close. It’s kind of like how skiers can get sunburned even in the freezing temperatures because of all the sunlight reflecting off the snow.
  • Light burn is most common with powerful lights like HPS/LED/LEC.
  • It’s also common when switching to new bulbs (which are stronger than old bulbs) or when there is no glass between the bulb and your plants.
  • Some plants are more sensitive than others, and you may have one plant suffering from light burn while the others are fine. That can make it harder to diagnose the problem since some of your plants are thriving in the same environment!

Light burn symptoms can be different from plant to plant, but they always seem to happen mostly to the parts of the plant that are closest to the light

  • The best way to fix light burn is to move you grow lights further away, or bend over the affected plants so they’re further from the light.
  • When in doubt, always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations when it comes to how far away to keep your light from your plants! This is especially important for growers who utilize LEDs.

5.) Temperature Problems (Heat Stress / Cold Shock)

  • Yellow or burnt leaves near the light
  • General yellowing of upper leaves
  • Leaves start “turning up” at the edges, or forming “tacos”
  • If you put your hand where your plants are and hold it there for 30 seconds, is it too hot to be comfortable? If it’s too hot for you it’s likely too hot for your plants.
  • Although relatively rare indoors since most growers struggle with heat instead of cold, a temperature under 50°F (10°C) can also cause pale or yellow leaves. Some plants will even die if it hits freezing temperatures! Placing grow containers directly on concrete in a basement can kill them with cold overnight!
  • You should be able to pass the “hand test” (hold your hand where your plants are and make sure it’s not too hot). If it’s too hot for you, move the light up and further away from the top of your plants.
  • You should correct the temperature if it’s under 60°F at night or above 85°F in the day.
  • Make sure there is good air circulation in the grow space, to prevent hot spots.
  • Your plants will be more resistant to cold if you keep their roots warm, so make sure to keep your containers off the cold floor (or if outdoors, you might consider covering your plant roots at night!)!

This poor plant was decimated by a heat wave – it went through several days of 100°F+ temperatures! Luckily the buds were still great 🙂

Too much heat can cause the edges of leaves to curl upwards and make “tacos”.

Sometimes extended periods of high temperatures causes spots and other odd symptoms in addition to yellowing.

Cold Shock

This plant was exposed to temperatures under 40°F (5°C) at night, causing all the newest growth to turn so pale yellow it almost looked white!

6.) Magnesium Deficiency

  • Yellowing in between the veins on leaves, often located lower down on the plant.
  • A magnesium deficiency is almost always caused by incorrect pH though if you’re using heavily purified or soft water (such as RO – reverse osmosis – water) you may need a Cal-Mag supplement to make sure your plant is getting enough magnesium.
  • First check the pH. It should be in the 6.0-7.0 range for soil growers and 5.5-6.5 for everyone else.
  • If a Magnesium deficiency persists, consider getting a CaliMagic supplement that is made for plants (you should always add Magnesium and Calcium at the same time because these two nutrients work together in the cannabis plant).
  • Learn more about Magnesium deficiencies

With a magnesium deficiency, the yellowing happens between the veins of the leaves, while the veins stay green.

Sometimes Triggered by Old Age / Natural Senescence / Light Deprivation

  • It’s actually normal if you only see these symptoms on a few leaves at the bottom of the plant that are no longer getting any light. The plant eventually “gives up” on old leaves if they spend days or weeks without light, which often happens to the lowest leaves at the plant gets bigger. This may look like a magnesium deficiency.
  • If this is the case, the leaves often seem droopy, limp and tired. These leaves don’t “stick straight out” like normal leaves because the plant isn’t wasting resources by putting energy into them.
  • This is most common when using relatively weak grow lights like fluorescent lighting or CFLs, since the light doesn’t easily reach the bottom of the plant.
  • Therefore this symptom is only something to worry about if it’s happening on leaves that are still getting light, or if you’re seeing the symptoms on many different leaves instead of just an occasional leaf here and there.

7.) Iron Deficiency

  • Iron deficiencies are unique because the yellowing always affects the newest growth; it does not happen to older leaves that are already green.
  • New leaves usually come in completely yellow.
  • Unlike most other nutrient deficiencies that cause yellowing, yellow leaves from an iron deficiency will usually turn green, starting from the outside edges and working inwards.
  • Unless you are using RO or very purified water, an iron deficiency is almost always caused by incorrect pH. This is because cannabis needs very little iron, and most sources of water already contain trace amounts of iron.
  • The pH being too high or too low is the most likely the cause of this problem. Bring your pH into the correct range and iron deficiencies will just go away.
  • If using purified water or water that doesn’t contain much natural iron, you may need a Cal-Mag supplement which includes iron like CaliMagic. You see these three together because Iron, Calcium and Magnesium work closely together in the plant. You never want to supplement your plant with extra iron without also adding the correct ratio of Calcium and Magnesium at the same time, or it may cause other types of deficiencies.
  • Learn more about Iron deficiencies

Iron deficiencies cause the middle and newest leaves to turn yellow, but they will slowly turn green as the plant gets older

8.) Not Enough Light (Seedlings)

When a shell first cracks, the round leaves inside are actually yellow. They only turn green once the plant starts getting enough light.

Note: Adult cannabis plants without enough light won’t grow well either, but they likely won’t have yellow leaves. In fact, adult cannabis plants that are getting relatively low levels of light will actually turn dark green since they aren’t using up nutrients for photosynthesis (the extra unused nutrients get stored in the leaves, causing them to appear darker).

You know your seedling needs more light when…

  • Seedlings are tall with small leaves
  • There is a lot of nodal spacing (stem between each set of leaves). Seedlings look “stretchy”.
  • Leaves stay yellow or pale green
  • The solution for pale, tall, stretchy seedlings is to add more light!
  • Learn more about different grow lights as well as how to upgrade your light system

This seedling is yellow and “stretching” because it needs more light

9.) Bugs or Pests

Many different types of bugs or pests can stress your plants, causing them to develop yellow leaves.

  • You can actually see bugs or eggs
  • Yellowing leaves, especially when combined with spots or bite marks
  • Overall lack of vigor

How Do Growers Get Pests?

  • Track them in from outside
  • From visiting another grower’s plants
  • Getting an infected clone or plant (sometimes there’s a few tiny eggs you can’t see!)
  • Certain things like overwatering, lack of cleanliness and poor air circulation make your garden a bigger target and a better home for bugs, making it easier for an infestation to take hold and stick around.
  • Unless you 100% trust the grower and their growing practices, never ever visit another grower’s garden or adopt clones from them. It can be incredibly difficult to get rid of bugs that are already specialized at surviving on cannabis plants!
  • Avoid going straight from outside to your cannabis plants, especially if you’ve spent time in a garden.
  • Make sure there is a screen to stop bugs if your plants are getting fresh air from outside.
  • Identify your bugs and get rid of them!

One of the most common pests that can cause yellowing without really any other symptoms is fungus gnats. These tiny winged creatures hang around your wet topsoil, and are most likely to appear if you’re overwatering your plants. Although the adults don’t attack your plants, their larvae feast on the roots, which can eventually cause yellowing, especially on small or weak plants.

A bad fungus gnat infestation can damage or even kill your plant!

Another common pest that may cause overall leaf yellowing is spider mites!

But any time a plant has an infestation, you may notice the leaves start yellowing regardless of the type of bug. You should be very concerned if you also see spots!

10.) Bud Rot

If yellow leaves appear overnight on just one or a few of your main buds, inspect the areas closely! Sometimes this is caused by bud rot at the base of the leaves.

  • Yellow leaves on select parts of the biggest buds
  • Yellowing often appears overnight
  • Yellow leaves usually easily fall right out
  • At the base of the leaf you can see white, gray or brown mold growing on the inside of the cola
  • Humidity above 60% RH
  • Lack of air circulation/breeze
  • Cool temperature – bud rot thrives around 60-70°F
  • Bushy plant (too many leaves) in a small space like a grow tent
  • Outdoors in rainy, cool or humid weather
  • Keep humidity under 50% RH during flowering if possible
  • Keep the temperature above 65-70°F at night if possible
  • Make sure there’s lots of air circulation around all the colas and through the plant
  • Defoliate a very bushy plant, especially if it’s getting close to harvest time
  • Learn how to prevent and treat bud rot!

Sometimes Yellow Leaves Are Normal!

Sometimes marijuana leaves turn yellow for totally normal reasons, including….

First Leaves Turn Yellow – Normal

After your plant has grown a few sets of leaves, it’s very normal for the first few sets of leaves to turn yellow and die, especially if they’re not getting light anymore. You will almost always lose the round cotyledons, the single-finger leaves, and the three-finger leaves (first three sets of leaves).

This vibrant young cannabis plant is healthy and growing over an inch a day

However, if you look closely at the bottom of the plant, you can see the three bottom sets of leaves have turned yellow and are dying. This is normal! The plant does not hold onto these baby leaves for long!

Single-Finger Leaves (plus the tiny round cotyledon leaves)

Three-finger leaves

When just first 3 sets of leaves turning yellow like the example above (leaves with three fingers or less), it’s not something to worry about as long as the rest of the plant is green, healthy and growing fast!

You don’t normally see these in pictures because most growers remove them 🙂

Plant is Ready to Harvest – Normal

Often plants will have a few yellow leaves by harvest time! This is completely normal and nothing to worry about as long as you’ve ruled out bud rot!

Mutation – Cosmetic (Usually Not Harmful)

Occasionally you may see mutations or natural variation that results in parts of leaves being yellow. The general rule of thumb with any unusual leaf symptom is if the rest of the plant is green, vibrant and healthy, there’s usually nothing to worry about.

See more common cannabis mutations!

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What does pH have to do with nutrient deficiencies?

10-Step Quick Start Guide to Growing

Yellow Cannabis Leaves and Treatment

While growing cannabis in the garden, there are some problems you are likely to encounter. Your plants may not be getting sufficient nutrients and water among other issues. These can interfere with the quality of the final yield or produce. Lack of enough water, sunlight, and minerals can make your plants’ leaves to turn yellow. Additionally, lack of constant watch and monitoring during the growing process can make your plant to wither. No grower likes to bear the sight of a withering plant. Thus, you need to ensure that your plant does not lack some of the necessities such as water and light. Even though the issue of yellow cannabis leaves faces many farmers, finding a permanent solution to prevent it can be difficult. However, there are some secret techniques from people at BestPot.ca one can apply to treat it.

To treat the problem of yellow leaves, first and foremost, one needs to identify its common causes. This is the starting point for resolving this issue. Secondly, you need to find out what brings about these effects. Thirdly, you can work on improving the situation so that the issue of yellow leaves does not spread to other plants. This will help you minimize the risk of the condition spreading to other plants hence the entire garden. However, there are some means and methods you can embrace to treat the issue of yellow cannabis leaves.

Proper evidence

The first step in treating the yellow cannabis leaves problem is having proper evidence. You need to identify the cause of chlorosis (the leaves in your cannabis plants turning yellow). Having sufficient information about it will enable you to apply effective treatment. Do not rush to conclude anything. Conduct extensive research and find out the root cause of the problem. You may presume that removing all the yellow leaves is an effective form of treatment, but it is not. When you conduct such an act on young plants, you will interfere with their final produce. Once you gather enough information about the cause of the problem, you will be able to find an effective solution. Cannabis leaves turning yellow have the possibility to logically yellow off and die. However, you do not need to worry when this happens in the last weeks of the flowering stage as it happens naturally while increasing.

Common mistakes lead to yellow leaves

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As stated earlier, there are some common mistakes you are bound to make during the growing process. This gets to interfere with the plant’s growth thus the yellow leaves. However, you can find a solution to resolve the issue thought it might not be a permanent solution. Conversely, it may help restore your marijuana plants back to their normal conditions. Some of the common mistakes growers make are as discussed below.

Improper growing: Treatment

For the cannabis plants to thrive effectively, they need to have a proper wet-dry cycle. That is, the plants need to be watered correctly and at the right time. It is not difficult to identify if your cannabis plants are thirsty. You simply need to lift the jars or containers when they are dry and after watering. This will help you to make a distinction. Additionally, you can buy a humidity meter and put it inside the pot. It will help you to ensure reservoirs, air stones, timers, and pumps are well set up when you begin growing. Marijuana leaves have improper growth if they are not watered appropriately. For treatment, keep constant watch over the plant’s post nourishing behavior. You can use a humidity meter or the other method to know when to water. Do not put too much as it can lead to mold or too little water to yellow leaves.

Loss of pH and nutrients

Pot plant leaves have yellow color when they lose their pH and nutrients. When growing weed, you need to cultivate it in a medium. This acts as a bumper for roots. You also need to identify the perfect or idyllic pH level and maintain it. Having a pH level below 5 will make the plants suffer. However, if you have an ideal pH level, the nutrients wander above or below the roots. Hence, this helps prevent the complete absorption of the solution.

Improper fertilization

Light green weed has yellow leaves due to over or under fertilization. This is due to lacking the appropriate nutrients at the ideal time. You need to read the instructions on your fertilizer bottle before adding it to water. Additionally, you can visit the internet and identify the brand of nutrients you are using. To treat improper fertilization, flush your plants with pure water. Then stick to the instructions on the dosage bottle during the flowering stage.

Cannabis light burn and light bleaching symptoms: Treatment

Many growers wonder why weed plant turning yellow have burns and light bleaching symptoms. This is because they are often positioned incorrectly, as they do not receive enough light. Too much light can cause the cannabis buds and leaves to be yellow. Thus, they get to have light burn and bleaching symptoms. For treatment, as an indoor grower, you need to hang your lights as instructed by the manufacturer. Adjust the lights as the plants grow.

Weather and pests

Bud leaves have yellow color due to poor or extreme weather conditions and pests. Low temperatures (less than 10°C) can cause the plant leaves to yellow. Some may take blue or purple tones. Even though it may appear as a blooming phase in some strains, it ought to be evaded early enough during the growing process. Extreme weather conditions such as heat waves can cause the plant leaves to yellow hence dry out. High temperatures (above 30°C) can cause the plants not to photosynthesize. Thus, the yellow weed flower has loose and airy buds. Pests too can cause marijuana plant leaves to yellow. For treatment, in the case of low temperatures, you can turn up the heat, but it needs to be moderate. For higher temperatures, turn up the air conditioner. Moreover, for pests, seal off the growing area from intruders.

In conclusion, when growing weed, there are some problems you are likely to encounter. For instance, yellow leaves. While it may be a good phase in the final weeks of the flowering stage, yellow leaves is a problem facing many cannabis growers. Many of them look for solutions to permanently end the issue. Nevertheless, there is no permanent solution to end it. Contrariwise, there are some techniques you can use to resolve the issue of yellow leaves. Some people believe that the best solution is to cut off all the leaves. You need to ask yourself how many leaves marijuana has. Above are some methods you can use to treat the issue of yellow cannabis leaves.

Header Image Credit: Zenpype


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