Japanese fuyu persimmon tree


The persimmon is one of the most widely grown “exotic” fruits. But why exotic? Perhaps it’s the Latin name, Diospyros, which literally translates as “food of the gods.” What could be more exotic to any mortal than to sit at the table of the gods? Or perhaps it’s because enjoying a ripe persimmon makes one feel graced as a god. Either way, the combination of brilliant orange color, succulent texture and intense flavor make for an unforgettable culinary experience.

In a more practical vein, the tree is graceful and beautiful all four seasons of the year. It is slow-growing, round-shaped and 15 to 20 feet tall. Smooth, lustrous dark green leaves turn a blaze of orange and red in fall. Branches tend to weep from the heavy fruit load — be prepared to lend some support with a 2-by-4s. Once leaves drop, the colorful fruits hang more gloriously on the bare branches than any shiny globe on a Christmas tree. Since persimmons have few serious pest and disease problems, this underutilized tree is a prize to grow in any gardener’s backyard.

Persimmon Types

The fruits are the biggest treat in growing persimmons. They range from the size of a half dollar to a small grapefruit, with colors from yellow to deep orange-red.

The Asian persimmon (Diospyros kaki) has been widely and wildly popular in Asia for centuries. In the United States, it grows anywhere south of USDA Zone 7 or anywhere the winter minimum temperature stays above 0°F. Asian persimmons are grown commercially in California and Florida and to a lesser extent in southeastern Texas.

The hardier American persimmon (D. virginiana) grows as far north as zone 5, or where winter minimum temperatures are -20° or higher. It is a larger and faster-growing tree, but produces smaller (11/2 inches in diameter), richer-tasting fruits than its Asian cousin.

Astringent or nonastringent? These are important terms in the lexicon of persimmon aficionados. Asian varieties may be either, while American varieties are only astringent. Astringent varieties contain alum, which makes your mouth pucker when the fruits are eaten before they’re fully ripe. Eat astringent persimmons only after they turn soft and mushy and have developed full color. Nonastringent persimmons can be eaten while they are still hard, like an apple, or after they soften. Both astringent and nonastringent fruits are versatile in cooking; use them fresh in salads and puddings or dry them.

Planting and Care

You can plant a persimmon tree in early spring or in fall, depending on your climate. Most mail-order trees are bare root, harvested December or January and shipped December through March. Plant these as soon as you receive them. Since bare-root trees shock easily when transplanted, it’s important to keep the roots moist. Transplanting containerized plants is usually more successful.

Both Asian and American persimmons grow best in well-drained and slightly acidic soil. Locate trees in full sun and space them 20 to 25 feet apart or 12 feet from a structure. American persimmons will tolerate a little shade and a wider variety of soil types than their Asian relatives. Roots are slow growing, so keep the tree well watered all season. A typical tree should begin bearing regular crops of persimmons at three to five years of age.


If new growth reaches about one foot a year, the trees have sufficient fertilizer. Too much fertilizer, especially nitrogen, will cause fruit drop. An annual application of 5 to 10 pounds of compost per tree in late winter will keep persimmons growing well.


Persimmon trees are mostly dioecious, meaning individual trees produce either male or female flowers. This means you’ll need a separate male pollinator tree for the female tree to produce a crop. Although persimmons can produce fruit parthenocarpically (without pollination), Asian persimmons are less likely to drop fruit and tend to produce larger and more fruit when pollinated. ‘Galley’ and ‘Gosho’ are good Asian male pollinator varieties.

If you’re growing American varieties, it’s also best to have a male pollinator variety. ‘Meader’ is one of the few American varieties that is known to be self-fruitful, but even its fruits will do better if planted with a male pollinator such as American Male. Asian varieties will not pollinate American varieties, and vice versa.


Prune young trees in winter to a modified central leader system with six to eight widely spaced scaffold branches around the trunk to support future fruit loads. American persimmons tend to sucker heavily, so plan to cut suckers away every year. Once persimmons reach bearing age, little pruning is necessary. Thin fruits to one to two fruits per shoot, choosing the ones with the largest calyx.


Persimmons are ready to harvest from September to December, depending on the variety. Asian fruits hold tightly to the branches, so you may need pruners to remove them.

Harvest nonastringent varieties, such as ‘Fuyu’, when they’re still firm but have full color. Harvest astringent Asian varieties when the skin of the fruit turns translucent and the calyx readily separates. Or leave either kind on the tree to ripen into the winter as long as temperatures don’t get below the mid-20s. American persimmons drop off the tree when ripe.

If raccoons, opossums or birds begin to eat the ripening fruit first, pick the astringent varieties when they’re just beginning to soften and place them in a plastic bag with a few bananas for 7 to 10 days in a warm room. The ethylene gas given off by the bananas will ripen the persimmons.

22 Kinds of Persimmons

Nonastringent Persimmons: Edible when either hard- or soft-ripe

Size and shape: Medium-large; tomato-shaped
Ripening time: Mid- to late
Flavor, color and more: Reddish orange fruits with sweet, crisp, mild-tasting flesh can hold on trees for up to two months. The most popular nonastringent variety, but hardy to only 15° F.

Size and shape: Very large; round
Ripening time: Midseason
Flavor, color and more: Reddish, juicy fruits with sweet, dark orange flesh on a dwarf tree.

Size and shape: Large; flattened
Ripening time: Midseason
Flavor, color and more: Orange fruits with sweet, crisp flesh with streaks of cinnamon brown. Large tree.

Ichi Ki Kei Jiro
Size and shape: Large; flattened
Ripening time: Early
Flavor, color and more: Orange, sweet fruits mature earlier than ‘Jiro’ on a dwarf tree. Hardy to 0° F.

Size and shape:Medium-large; round
Ripening time: Early
Flavor, color and more: Orange-red fruits with sweet, pale orange flesh. Earliest ripening of nonastringent types. Recommended for the Gulf Coast. Dwarf tree.

Size and shape: Large; round
Ripening time: Midseason
Flavor, color and more: Orange fruits are sweet and mild tasting. Similar to ‘Fuyu’ but has larger, flatter fruits. Hardy to 0° F.

Size and shape: Large; round
Ripening time: Late
Flavor, color and more: Red fruits with sweet flesh. Late ripening. Recommended for the Gulf Coast.

Astringent Persimmons: Edible when soft-ripe

Size and shape: Medium; tomato-shaped
Ripening time: Midseason
Flavor, color and more: Reddish orange fruits with firm, light yellow flesh. A prolific, heavy bearer that starts bearing early (in the third year). Recommended for the Southeast.

Size and shape: Large; conical
Ripening time: Midseason
Flavor, color and more: Yellowish orange fruits up to one pound, less sweet than ‘Saijo’.

Great Wall
Size and shape: Small; flattened
Ripening time: Early
Flavor, color and more: Orange fruits with sweet flesh. Hardy to 0° F.

Size and shape: Large; conical-acorn
Ripening time: Early
Flavor, color and more: Orange-red fruits with sweet, smooth-textured flesh. The standard commercial variety in California. Fruits drop if tree is stressed or excess nitrogen applied, but store well.

Hardy Russian
Size and shape: Small; pointed base
Ripening time: Very early
Flavor, color and more: Golden fruits have soft, melting flesh when fully ripe. The most cold-hardy Asian variety, to -15° F.

Size and shape: Medium; flattened
Ripening time: Midseason
Flavor, color and more: Fruits are similar to ‘Hachiya’ but very slow to lose astringency. Popular in Japan. Thick skin, tends to be seedless.

Size and shape: Medium; flattened
Ripening time: Midseason
Flavor, color and more: A productive bearer with orange fruits. More cold-hardy than most Asian varieties, to -10° F.

Size and shape: Medium; egg-shaped
Ripening time: Early
Flavor, color and more: Yellowish orange fruits with sweet, orangish, mostly seedless flesh. Excellent flavor. Skin resists cracking. Dries and stores well.

Size and shape: Large; flattened and ribbed
Ripening time: Late
Flavor, color and more: Sweet, orange fruits dry well. Trees are similar to ‘Hana-Gosho’ but more dwarf.

Size and shape: Medium-large; round with turban-like ridge
Ripening time: Late
Flavor, color and more: Reddish orange fruits with light yellow, sweet, juicy, slightly stringy flesh and thick skin. Large tree.

Size and shape: Large; heart-shaped
Ripening time: Mid- to late
Flavor, color and more: Light reddish orange fruits with pulpy yellow flesh. Good for drying. Small tree. Drops fruits easily if stressed.

Early Golden
Size and shape: Medium; round
Ripening time: Early to midseason
Flavor, color and more: Yellowish orange, sweet fruits. Usually seeded. Self-fruitful, but more productive with pollinator variety. Larger tree than Asian varieties. Most widely planted American persimmon. Hardy to -25° F.

Size and shape: Small to medium; round
Ripening time: Early
Flavor, color and more: Seedling of ‘Early Golden’ with similar characteristics but ripens earlier and requires pollinator variety to set fruit.

John Rick
Size and shape: Very large; round
Ripening time: Late
Flavor, color and more: Orange fruit and red, pulpy flesh used for canning. Productive, early and hardy to -25°F. Needs a pollinator variety.

Size and shape: Medium; round
Ripening time: Early
Flavor, color and more: Orange, sweet fruits tend to be seedless. The hardiest persimmon, to -30° F. Self-fruitful, but does best with a pollinator.

Charlie Nardozzi is a senior horticulturist at the National Gardening Association.

Why is my young fuyu persimmon tree struggling?

There is not a lot of information in the photo to support a diagnosis, but what I can’t see could be a contributor. I can’t see the root flare. If the little fella was planted too deeply, innocuous as it seems, the consequences could be dire, but it’s fixable. It is not unusual for young trees to be planted too deeply by growers, shipped to nurseries and sold that way. The end user has a chance to correct the problem, as long as they know there is one. It usually takes years before the final price is paid.

Tve photographs bellos depict two trees with different fates awaiting them. The first one shows a tree that resembles a phone pole. The tree is doomed. The second is a properly planted tree. (Three other ideas about your fuyu follow the photos.).

  1. I believe you said a nursery worker told you that persimmons resist Armillaria root rot. They might, but they are not completely insusceptible. One must always consider the source of such information. (I asked about some barely detectable insects crawling in and out of the bark of a weeping willow I had just bought when two nursery workers were loading it onto my vehicle. They said it was no big deal, so I swapped it on the spot for a climate-suitable tree. Since then, wised up, I have not seen a weeping willow in my subtropical climate that didn’t show a little bit of sparseness of foliage at the very top of the tree. I amaze my friends by accurately pronouncing “two years from now, that tree won’t be there.” About the persimmon, though. I have come across the claim that they are Armillaria-resistant, but I have seen more convincing writings on how to deal with it should it occur. One article said to kill all your trees and start over. Another said phosphorous acid can keep it in check. Mainly, for now, don’t rule it out. If that’s what it is, there might be some options.

  2. Another possibility, among many, is phytopthora, a very common disease that persimmons are susceptible to. The pathogen is a weird little thing called an oomycete. (It isn’t a fungus, a bacterium or a virus. It’s an oomycete.) Your tree doesn’t show any of the problems that phytopthora causes, but the disease does its damage in the roots, and the symptoms appear above the soil later. I’ve had a crash course this year, with a gorgeous young avocado that had bloomed for the first time and set what seemed like a thousand tiny fruit. They grew to the size of kumquat and stopped, and hung around looking pathetic while the tree underwent two vigorous leafings-out that resulted in masses of ugly yellow leaves that soon developed dry brown splotches that made them as ugly as arborily possible. I don’t know why that pathogen was in my soil. I do know what I and two well-meaning others did wrong, though.

I was thrilled to learn that it is controllable, and possibly even curable. I bought a few slow-release tree injectors from the US distributor, some buffered phosphorous, not phosphoric, acid made by Monterey Lawn and Garden, sold as GardenFos by the company and lots if other online retailers. The tree soon had shed its ugly yellow-brown adornments and very promising new leaves have emerged. It might need additional injections, but I wouldn’t resume until next year, if that’s so.

  1. One more thing. Sometimes what seems to be a sick tree is just a species with unusual scheduling . This article… https://homeguides.sfgate.com/persimmon-tree-yellow-dropping-fruit-91500.html …on SFGate.com lists some benign explanations for troubling phenomena in persimmon trees.

The last part of the last thing: If you’re in Australia or anywhere in the southern latitudes, it’s winter, persimmons are deciduous.

Japanese Persimmon ‘Fuyu’ (Diospyros kaki)
Long known as a productive fruiting tree for warm temperate and subtropical zones, the ‘Fuyu’ persimmon also makes a great container plant for gardeners in northern regions. Our ‘Fuyu’ persimmon tree at Logee’s has been growing in the ground in our cold greenhouse since the 1940’s and reliably produces fruit every fall. But unknown to most gardeners, it does equally well in containers except the fruit grows a little smaller. The persimmon fruit ripens in the fall and will hold onto the tree long after the leaves have fallen. The skin and pulpy flesh is a gorgeous flame-orange. ‘Fuyu’ has few seeds and is known for its nonastringent quality. This simply means that you can eat the fruit hard or soft. When soft, cutting the fruit in half and scooping out the sweet nectar is a mouth-watering experience. Give the plant full sun and plenty of water during the active growing season. If grown as a container plant in the north, as long as the nighttime temperatures during the winter reach down into the 40’s and stay above the mid 20’s ‘Fuyu’ will produce reliably. As a deciduous plant, it can be kept without light during the winter as long as the temperatures are kept cold.


Growing tips

  • Traditional persimmon varieties like ‘Dai Dai Maru’, ‘Hachiyu’ and ‘20th Century’ are astringent types, which means they can only be eaten when they’re ripe and very soft – we don’t recommend trying when they’re not ready! Newer non-astringent varieties like ’Fuyu’, ‘Izu’ and ‘Ichikikei Jiro’ and can be eaten while the fruit is still firm.

  • Astringent varities are mostly self-fertile, so you will only need one tree for fruit set. With non-astringent varieties, having two trees will improve fruit set.
  • Persimmon trees have a reputation for making very slow growth in the early stages, but a regular feeding throughout the year will encourage the better plant and root growth.
  • In heavy clay soils, it’s best to put extra effort into soil preparation. To check if your soil needs work, dig a hole and pour a bucket of water into the hole – if it takes more than 30 minutes to disappear, then you will need to work your soil. Consider raising the level of the bed as much as possible, dig in gypsum and plenty of Yates Dynamic Lifter Soil Improver & Plant Fertiliser.Persimmon plants often become available for sale with the other deciduous fruit trees in late autumn or early winter. You can also start looking for them in early autumn, so you have a better idea of the fiery autumn colours the tree will display.
  • Persimmons don’t need much pruning. Once the framework is established, it can usually be left alone.
  • Persimmons may take several years to bear fruit, but be patient – they’ll be with you for a long time!
  • Avoid pulling the fruit from the tree, you may risk removing the calyx and spoiling the fruit. Instead, snip the fruit gently from the tree with a pair of pruning shears.

Persimmon – an attractive tree to grow.

By Dennis Ting.

Why are persimmon trees so attractive?

For a start they have glossy green leaves in summer followed by colourful fruit and then beautiful autumn foliage colours of yellows reds and purple hues. They are fairly low maintenance in terms of pests and diseases. Furthermore they can fruit early in three years or so but do remove most of this early crop to encourage tree growth. When established they can produce a heavy crop too.

The first thing to understand about Persimmons is there are TWO distinct fruiting types non-astringent (hard) versus astringent (soft). The non-astringent is sweet and edible, hard like an apple. Versus the astringent persimmon which is soft and only edible when like an over ripe squishy tomato with jam inside! Previously most garden trees in Melbourne were of the astringent types. But fairly recently, newer non-astringent types are being imported from Japan.

Try a hard unripe astringent Persimmon and you will pucker your face due to an unpleasant bitter taste and furry feeling or better give one to a friend to try! Sometimes astringent ones still have a bit of this even when ripe. But if you get it at the perfect time, they taste like a sweet delicious honey jam.

Even if you like soft Persimmons it is still safer to grow a non-astringent variety and wait for them to go soft so you can enjoy them ‘hard’ or ‘soft’ as my family say!

Buying trees in a nursery is quite straight forward these days as they come year round potted up and well rooted. The days of finding them bare rooted in winter seems to be over as they have delicate roots and did not always transplant well when the roots had been cut back.

So as you can see in the photo below they are generally available in a range of pot sizes of 20cm, 25cm and 30cm.

The main non-astringent varieties are ‘Fuyu’ and ‘Jiro’ (and clones of it) producing nice big fruit ripening to perfection in Melbourne. ‘Fuyu’ tend to be six sided so appear round while ‘Jiro’ is more distinctly four sided so appear square.

Some astringent varieties include ‘Nightingale’, ‘Tanenashi’, and ‘Dai Dai Maru’ which as I said before must be left to fully ripen before eating but can be brought inside when coloured but firm.

Single stem nursery trees must be pruned back to approximately 40cm to form a trunk and a nice framework with three to four branches low down. They can develop a weeping habit and not grow so tall if multiple branches are encouraged early by pruning several times during the growing season. Remember to stake the tree in its initial years until a strong trunk forms.

Another way to produce a shade tree might be to select the tallest single stem tree available and only leave the top three or four buds to grow so you have a tall trunk and space underneath to position a chair or bench etc.

Another good way is to grow against a fence or on a trellis like an espalier as you can lightly prune each year. (Photo)

I have both ‘Fuyu’ and ‘Ichikeikei Jiro’ (‘Dwarf Jiro’) growing and they reward me with large tasty delicious fruit. They are self-pollinating (unlike apples, pears and plums) and therefore usually produce seedless fruit too. If male flowers appear on the tree it is best to remove them as very seedy fruit may result.

I have found that the only major pest is birds which will start pecking at the fruit even when they are only 4cm across. This year I was introduced to Organza Jewellery Bags 15cm (6″) x 12.5cm (5″) with draw strings. These are available in many colours but plain white seem to work the best.

I obtained these late in the season and once bagged did not lose another fruit! The only complaint being from my daughter who had to climb the ladder to bag the fruit as they would not fit! You harvest each fruit in its bag and undo the draw string to remove it.

So as you can see the fruit look great on the tree and even better inside when they are ready to eat!

Previously I was using a large net to cover the entire tree. This was a hassle to even get the net to go over the whole tree and even more annoying when it came to harvesting the fruit. Removing the net was a difficult exercise too as branches would have grown through it.

So if you are wanting to try something different and can obtain some organza bags this works far more effectively than bird netting and in terms of labour on a small to average size tree is probably about the same to install and remove.

Persimmon Tree Care

Persimmons are Japan’s national fruit. Persimmons have been cultivated for over a millennium in Asian countries.
Persimmons make delicious bread, bagels, and muffins, along with stuffing, jams, jellies, curry, pies, and cookies. They can also be served in salads with watercress, tomatoes, basil, red pepper, onion and almonds along with homemade salsa and marinades.
The sky’s the limit on recipes that can change the traditional boring meal, transforming it into a scrumptious feast.
Any home gardener can have oriental persimmon trees, even with limited space, growing persimmons is possible in a container.

Persimmon Varieties
We offer 4 varieties of persimmons these varieties are Fuyu, Hachiya, Suruga, and Tanenashi.
We offer two types, astringent (not as sweet) and non-astringent (sweeter).

The Fuyu Persimmon is a non-astringent variety, the fruit is eaten fresh off the tree. The Fuyu is seedless and great for cooking and eating. The fruits tend to ripen in November and are as sweet and crisp as apples.
The Hachiya Persimmon is an astringent variety, the fruit is picked when firm and bright orange and stored until soft. It is often used for baking also a favorite for eating as a fresh fruit. Hachiya Persimmons when ripe are wonderfully sweet.
The Suruga Persimmon is a non-astringent variety, the fruit is small round, deep orange with a sweet maple syrup flavor, vibrant, and delicious fruit.
The Tanenashi Persimmon is an astringent variety, a seedless prolific producer of a medium-sized round to cone-shaped orange-red fruits.
Planting Zones
Our Persimmons can be planted in USDA growing zones 9-11 only.
Trees that are planted in the ground that experience freezing temperatures above zone 8 need protection in unusual inclement weather.
Planting in the wrong hardiness planting zone will void the warranty.
Planting zones- https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/

Planting In The Ground
1. Do not plant a new persimmon tree in a space where an old tree has died, the soil may be contaminated and create problems for your new tree. Mature persimmon trees can grow to a height of 25 feet tall, so choose your planting site carefully.
2. The location should be chosen that is sunny, in a well-draining area. Persimmons prefer deep loamy soils but will tolerate a range of conditions, provided soil salts are low. The preferred soil pH for persimmons is between 6.5 and 7.5.
3. Place the potted tree in a chosen location for 2 weeks and allow the tree to acclimate to the area before you plant in the ground. The tree needs full sun.
4. Dig a planting hole double the width of the root ball or double the size of the pot and fill with water and wait 24 hours.
5. Fill the hole with water again. If water has drained from the hole within an hour this area has good drainage and the tree can be planted.
6. If the area has terrible drainage choose another area.
7. Add a mixture of compost and well-draining soil into the hole and remove the tree from the pot.
8. Place tree in the hole. DO NOT allow the tree to drop down into the hole-The soil line of the tree should be above the existing soil grade approximate 1-2 inches above the existing grade.
9. Do not bury the root-crown with soil or mulch. A photo of the root crown can be found here – https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/pest-disease
10. Keep other plants away from the young tree by creating a 5-foot circumference around the trunk of the tree. Weeds allowed to grow around the tree’s base compete for water and nutrients, so pull them up as they appear.
11. Deep-water newly planted fruit tree.
The Potted Persimmon
Persimmons are best grown in loamy soils in a well-draining pot.
Do not allow the tree to sit in standing water.
Do not re-pot until you have had the tree at least 2 weeks, the tree needs time to adjust
Never plant a tree in a container more substantial than a 10-gallon pot. Always water according to pot size, with a moisture meter. Drilling additional holes in the pot is an easy way to improve drainage.
When repotting DO NOT transplant using stones in the bottom of the pot or use stones on top as a decoration, this will cause a drainage issue and lock moisture into the pot which will cause root rot.
Select the right sized pot with adequate drainage holes. If the pot has no holes on the side or bottom, it is not the correct pot for planting.
Self-watering is incorrect watering, self-watering is not infrequent deep watering.

Do not over-water Persimmon trees!
Overwatering trees in the ground in certain soils are often the number one factor in causing root rot.
Persimmon trees prefer deep root watering.
Regular watering helps the tree to establish a deep root system.
Persimmon trees produce more abundant and better fruit when watered regularly, ideally receiving 36-48″ per year.
They will drop leaves and fruit in extreme drought conditions but can withstand shorter drought periods. In hot areas, it may be necessary to water a few times a week, unless they are growing in heavy clay soil.

Deep Watering Method For Potted Trees
Trees will die if they don’t have basic requirements and the biggest mistake made is incorrect watering.
1. Check the tree with a moisture meter before watering.
2. The prong should be deep into the pot.
3. Only water when the meter reads 4 (for a meter that reads from 1-10)
4. All trees require deep watering. Deep watering is drenching the soil until water pours from the holes at the bottom of the pot.
5. Watering with a few cups is not acceptable, this will cause deep roots to die. Never be stingy with the water when the tree needs to be watered.
6. Once the tree has been watered properly, recheck the soil with the moisture meter again. It should read high (9 or 10) if it doesn’t, water until the meter level is high. Remove the meter and then do not water again until the meter reads 4.
7. In the winter you will water far less, like twice a month (but always check the tree with a meter weekly, because this can vary).
8. The meter should never be left in the pot when not in use.
9. Never water with cold water in the winter.
10. Never water the tree with water from a water softener.

Persimmons can be grown as large specimen trees or pruned heavily to create a hedge. Persimmons can even be trained as espaliers if cut back to about one half the original height at planting.
Because fruit is borne on branch tips, it is best to prune selectively and thoroughly in the first few years so the tree will develop balanced structure and strong branches for fruit.
Regular maintenance pruning involves heading some branches and removing others, usually resulting in a general “Open Vase” shape.

Persimmon trees benefit from spring fertilization with a slow-release, balanced fertilizer. In early spring, before new leaves appear, apply a granular, general-purpose 5-5-5 fertilizer
DO NOT over fertilize, this can prevent persimmon fruit from developing.

Use mulch for ground planted trees only.
Maintain a 3-4 inch layer of mulch around the persimmon tree to retain soil moisture and improve soil quality
Apply the mulch in the spring and fall under the canopy of the tree.
Avoid piling mulch against the trunk of the tree.
The tree trunk needs air circulation, without circulation, the truck could rot away from the root ball so avoid piling soil and mulch close to the root crown and tree truck.

Note on Dormancy
Dormant trees still need to be protected (winterized) to remain healthy and free from diseases and insects. Prune dead branches in the later part of fall. Foliage and branches that are in contact with soil invite undesirable pests. Therefore it is best to keep the winterized potted dormant tree clean of debris. Set it in an unheated garage or basement and allow it to go dormant for the winter months. Water the tree as you would typically through dormancy. It helps to have a moisture meter because in colder climates (even indoors) the tree will not need to be watered as often (about twice a month).
Water the dormant tree when the meter reads 40%. Fertilize dormant trees in February with a 5-5-5 fertilizer.

Please contact us at [email protected] or call if you need assistance with your Persimmon tree.

Lemon Citrus Tree
866-216-TREE (8733)

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