How to water plants rust?

How do you water planter boxes??

I just tried a greenhouse/smokehouse combo for my mountain-top retreat.

Each large box needs 9k water for initial full hydration. Each small needs 3k. 1k water per plant. Use the large 4k jugs available at outpost. Water is critical for total yield.

Place an electric light above each three-plant line. Increase height of greenhouse by a low wall or half-wall on top of the full. This gets the light cone high enough for corn, and increases light spread for other crops. Light is critical for speed of growth.

Once each planter is watered and lit, plant seeds or cuttings. The first 3-5 minutes will be critical, as the seedlings will drain water. Dump another 1k per three-plant line while they grow early.

One hour and ten minutes, to one and a half hours will give you your answer on whether you did it right. I had to re-water hemp a few times to get the full 400% yield. This game codes hemp like real-life rice. It is THIRSTY. Do not bother unless you want a lot of cloth in a hurry and are willing to haul water. Pumpkins and corn will thrive in greenhouses with not much water or care.

Full light = 4x growth speed. 1 hour and 10 for hemp. Little longer for corn and pumpkins.

Full water = 4x yield. 500L per plant showing when you look at each one, 1k liters for pumpkins.

I also used a fireplace, but I am on top of a mountain, and have no clue whether temperature plays any role at all. It just lets me cook meat while I watch my grow-op of 36 plants. Three large, and three small in front of them, in a 2×3 greenhouse.

Lemongrass Pruning: How To Cut Back Lemongrass Plants

Popular in Asian cuisine, lemongrass is a very low maintenance plant that can be grown outdoors in USDA zone 9 and above, and in an indoor/outdoor container in colder zones. It’s fast growing though, and can get a little unruly if not pruned back regularly. Keep reading to learn more about how to cut back lemongrass.

How to Cut Back Lemongrass Plants

If given plenty of sun, water, and fertilizer, lemongrass can grow to as big as 6 feet (1.8 m.) high and 4 feet (1.2 m.) wide. Pruning lemongrass plants is a good idea for keeping them a manageable size as well as encouraging new growth.

Cutting lemongrass stalks for cooking will keep the plant somewhat in check, but lemongrass grows so quickly that extra pruning is often necessary.

The best time for trimming lemongrass is early spring, when the plant is still dormant. If your lemongrass has been left untended for a while, it has probably accumulated some dead material. The first thing to do is get rid of that.

Rake away anything that’s unattached underneath, then pull out any dead stalks that are still in the ground. These are probably mostly around the outside of the plant. Once all that remains of your plant is green, you can cut down the tops of the stalks to make it a more manageable size.

Lemongrass is very forgiving and can be cut back quite drastically. Cut it down to as little as 3 feet (.9 m.) high and prune it regularly to keep it that size if you so desire.

Pruning Lemongrass in Colder Climates

If you live in a colder climate, your lemongrass may go dormant over the winter, with all of its leaves turning brown. If this is the case, wait until early spring for lemongrass pruning and cut all the leaves away, right down to the tender white part of the stalk. This may look extreme when you do it, but before long, fresh growth should come in to replace all that lost material.

Two-Year Lemongrass Update (and How to Tame That Wild Thing)

Actually, make that two and a half years… Back in September 2010, I rooted a bunch of lemongrass stalks (purchased from the produce aisle) and planted them in the ground.

They were given ample sun, weekly watering in the summer, no (or hardly any) watering in the winter, and quickly grew into something that kinda resembled Cousin It.

That original bundle of three little stalks looks like this now.

And embarrassingly, this is what it looks like most of the year as I’m a pretty lazy pruner. The plant has multiplied into a clump of at least 50 stalks, with the whole thing spanning 4 feet wide by 3 feet high.

I’ve never trimmed it and never divided it, but since the herb doesn’t really get going again until summer, I finally decided to give it a much-needed haircut last week.

In colder climates, lemongrass goes dormant in the winter. The leaves will turn brown and you’ll think the plant has died off. Milder climates still see a green plant in winter, but the leaves will look a bit bedraggled.

The best time to prune your lemongrass is while it’s dormant, but not until temperatures start to warm up in the spring.

Cold-climate gardeners can simply cut back the entire plant to just a couple inches above the tender white part of the stalk, trimming off all the brown leaves.

Gardeners with green plants just need to maintain the shape of the shrub. Light pruning of the leaf tips can be done throughout the year, but a heavy pruning should be done in the spring to give your lemongrass a chance to grow back.

To begin, rake out all the dead leaves under the plant. (If this is your first time pruning, you might be surprised by how much organic matter accumulates under there!) Then put on some gloves (those leaf edges are paper-cut sharp!) and pull out any brown outer stalks as well as brown or rusted leaves.

You may have to reach in between the clump to get all the leaves out (but leave the inner stalks intact, as those are the newer ones). I give a light tug and anything dead comes out easily.

Once you’ve removed all the brown bits, use hedge shears to cut back the leaves. I just do a straight cut across and trim a section of leaves at a time.

Trim as much as you want, as lemongrass can take a pretty good pruning. I like to trim my plant into a Tina Turner-esque mound of grass, keeping it short and neat.

Once you’ve got the shape you want, you can finesse the cut and go all Edwards Scissorhands on it, trimming random brown tips here and there until your OCD wears off.

When finished, you should have a shapely green clump with healthy white stalks.

The arrival of summer will spur your lemongrass to grow vigorously again, and bright green leaves will fill out the plant more.

If you don’t use your lemongrass that often, try to tame the clump by removing wilted outer stalks once a month. Or, you can dig up healthy stalks with the roots intact and replant them elsewhere in your garden. If you’re doing some major dividing on the clump, you can even repot a few stalks to give as gifts!

Rolling Self-Watering Tomato Planter and Rust-Resistant Tower

11145

  • Lightweight, durable polypropylene tub; powder-coated steel tower
  • Locking casters let you roll the full planter with ease
  • Self-contained growing unit holds 40 liters of soil (not included)
  • Use for tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, beans, peas, squash, herbs
  • Built-in reservoir holds 3½ liters of water
  • Enjoy easy gardening and healthy, thriving plants
  • Self-watering: no more dead plants or under-watering
  • A great gardening solution for all ages/abilities
  • Perfect for patio, balcony, deck, condo – any smaller space
  • Reuse year after year to enjoy homegrown, healthy produce
  • Soil and plants are not included

Planter 25½”L x 13¾”W x 13½”H; Tower 20″L x 10″W x 40″H

This Rolling Self-Watering Tomato Planter with Tower makes it easier than ever to grow healthy, delicious tomatoes, vegetables, herbs and more. Veggies taste so much better when you grow them yourself.

Our lightweight, portable planter has rolling casters so you can move it for your plants needs: more sunshine, more shade, protection from storms. You can even start seeds in it indoors (great for colder climes!) to get a jump start on the growing season, then move outside when the weather warms.

The self-watering, sub-irrigation system with built-in overflow ensures plants always have the water they need, even when you’re on vacation or during hot, dry weather. Just fill the 3½ liter reservoir for healthy, thriving plants that literally take care of themselves.

The included powder-coated steel Tomato Tower provides sturdy support for heavy vines and plants. It’s made for big tomato plants, but works well with cucumbers, beans, peppers and more. There’s really no limit to the variety of plants you can grow and harvest.

The super-durable, reusable polypropylene tub is lightweight and made to last. It holds approx. 40 liters of soil and 3½ liters of water in the reservoir. Planter weighs approx. 8 lbs. without water, soil or plants. The number of plants it holds will vary depending upon variety/type/size, with a space for 2-3 tomato plants. The fun part is experimenting with your “crops” from year to year!

This self-contained, all-in-one Tomato Planter and Tower makes gardening easy, enjoyable and manageable. Forget hours of tilling, weeding, hoeing and watering. Just fill the tub with your soil and plants (not included), add water to the reservoir and you’re done. It’s a great way for anyone to experience the joys of gardening: beginning gardeners, gardening with children, folks who’ve downsized, balcony planting, condo or retirement living, kitchen gardening and so much more! Soil and plants are not included.

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Lemongrass Plant Turning Brown: Help For Brown Leaves On Lemongrass

Lemongrass is a delicious citrus scented grass that is used in many Asian dishes. It also makes a lovely, easy to grow addition to the garden. Easy to grow it may be, but not without issues. I recently notice that my lemongrass is turning brown. The question is, WHY is my lemongrass turning brown? Let’s find out.

Help, My Lemongrass Leaves are Brown!

Like me, you’re probably asking “Why is my lemongrass turning brown?”

Insufficient watering/fertilizing

The most obvious reason for a lemongrass plant turning brown would be lack of water and/or nutrients. Lemongrass is native to areas with regular rainfall and high humidity so they may need more water in the home garden than other plants.

Water and mist the plants regularly. To keep other plants nearby from getting drowned out by the frequent watering, plant the lemongrass in a bottomless container buried in the soil.

Lemongrass also needs lots of nitrogen, so fertilize the plants with a balanced soluble fertilizer once a month.

Fungal diseases

Still have brown leaves on lemongrass? If a lemongrass plant is turning brown and water has been ruled out as the culprit, it might be a disease. Brown leaves on lemongrass might be a symptom of rust (Puccinia nakanishikii), a fungal disease that was first reported in Hawaii in 1985.

In the case of rust infection, lemongrass leaves are not only brown, but there will be light yellow spots on the foliage with streaks of brown and dark brown pustules on the undersides of leaves. Severe infection may result in the death of leaves and eventually plants.

Rust spores survive on lemongrass debris on the ground and is then spread by wind, rain, and water splashing. It is most common in areas of high rainfall, high humidity, and warm temperatures. So, despite the fact that lemongrass thrives in such areas, obviously there can be too much of a good thing.

To manage rust, promote healthy plants by using mulch and fertilize regularly, prune out any diseased leaves and avoid overhead irrigation. Also, don’t space the lemongrass too close together, which will only encourage transmission of the disease.

Brown leaves on lemongrass may also mean leaf blight. Leaf blight’s symptoms are reddish brown spots on leaf tips and margins. The leaves actually look like they are desiccating. In the case of leaf blight, fungicides may be applied and also prune out any infected leaves.

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