- Cactus Cuttings FAQ
- Propagating Night Blooming Cereus: How To Take Night Blooming Cereus Cuttings
- Night Blooming Cereus Cuttings
- How to Propagate a Night Blooming Cereus
- Care When Propagating Cereus Cactus
- How to Grow Night Blooming Cereus Cuttings
- Night Blooming Cereus Care
- Temperature & Humidity
- Starting Night Blooming Cereus from Cuttings
- Ephiphyllum Oxypetalum in Nature
- Long Shoots on Epiphyllum
- Epiphyllum Oxypetalum Potting Soil
- How Do You Get Orchid Cactus to Bloom?
- Dried Banana Peels for Fertilizer
- How to Dry Banana Peels
- Watering Epiphyllum Oxypetalum
- Epiphyllum Oxypetalum Flowers
- Placing Your Epiphyllum Outdoors
- Propagating Queen of the Night
- Other Resources
Cactus Cuttings FAQ
Cactus type Cuttings:
Congratulations on your purchase of cacti Cuttings, and/or Potted Plant
Now comes the fun part of getting them to root, grow and thrive!
A lot of different factors play into the length of time it takes for these guys to begin rooting. Time of season, soil type, location, heat, and amount of sunlight are all factors to consider.
Cacti, like the vast majority of all other plants, will root best in warm temps and warm soil. Obviously spring and summer are the optimum seasons for getting these guys to grow, but indoors where you can control these factors, will help you as well.
Rooting your Cactus Cuttings
So your cutting/s have arrived. The bottom end should be dry and calloused. Sometimes we use a little sulfur on the end to help with drying and to protect it from any infection. The sulfur may turn a few colors. It’s okay. Just check to make sure the end is dry! If it is, you’re ready to go to the next step. If still wet for some reason, keep dry and allow it to sit in the shade for a few days, or even prop it up so the end faces the warm sun to help out. ** Be careful though of leaving it directly on it’s side in hot sustained sun as they can burn while on their sides.
If the end feels mushy/rotted (rarely will this happen in shipping) , you will need to cut the rotted section off. Make sure you cut into nice healthy cactus. You want to get rid of anything that’s not healthy! Then allow to dry in a shady dry area as noted above, a few days if warm, a week or so if not. You can also put some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and wipe the ends to sterilize and or remove surface mold etc.
OK, you now have a dry calloused cutting end ready to plant. Soil is important for a number of reasons.
One, it needs to be porous/well draining soil, whether by adding sand, gravel, pummice, perlite, or other medium. Your soil needs to drain/dry quicker than your average houseplant soil or you risk your tricho/cacti rotting at it’s base. Wet, soggy soil kills succulents and cactus more than anything! If the soil is wet, it doesn’t need to be watered!
Two, your soil is both the home of your tricho/cactus, and it’s major source of nourishment! You’ve invested in these plants so spend a little more and purchase/create a quality soil for your cactus investment to thrive in. Ask your local nursery/gardening center for some basic cactus soil mix and you are ready to go/grow, or make your own. Google to learn how. You can later add fertilizer, worm castings, whatever you want to feed your cactus with, but wait to do this until it’s rooted and ready to take in the food!
Ok, so now you have your dry cactus cut, some proper soil (doesn’t need to be dry soil, a little moisture is just fine, just not wet, you shouldn’t be able to squeeze water out. **if your conditions are cooler/humid, go with DRY Soil), a pot with ***drainage holes***, and now you will scoop out a few inches of soil and gently place her into the soil, 2-3” down is fine. If you have a heavy or long cut, you may need to support with a stick or something. Place in a dry and shady spot for the next 3-4 weeks as you wait for roots to begin appearing. At this time, you can carefully check for root growth by gently pulling your cactus out and inspecting, either she’s started, or you have to wait patiently for another few weeks. If it looks rotted (shouldn’t), cut and start over. It’s important to monitor your cutting during these 3-4 weeks, you are looking for any discoloration coming up from the bottom, the sooner you catch a problem with rot, the less you have to cut away and the quicker you can start again.
An alternative to vertical planting is laying your cactus horizontally on the ground or in a large pot if your cuts are small enough. The advantages of this is if you find your cactus pieces already broken and on the ground (check for roots along the section facing the ground), or if you have a large unattractive piece you want just to propagate from. Planting horizontally also provides more surface area for roots to form which in the end, will be a major factor in producing growth, as well as growth in multiple areas along it’s length!
If roots have begun, you can now begin watering gently, and make sure to wait for soil to dry a bit between each watering, remember, soggy sustained soil kills cactus! My experience with watering is I let it go all the way to the bottom so as to get the cactus roots to grow deeply vs staying shallow and near the surface.
Now your cactus are ready for some full sun, or you can experiment on their location.We have cactus in hot baking sun that are thriving if watered consistently. Color and growth are effected by lack of water. We also have many in partial shade, and some giants that have grown long and tall up along the sides of some trees, never getting full sun at all. This is up to you where you grow yours, but if you see them bending/reaching for the sun, you need to move them as this isn’t a good thing. Also, SLOWLY ACCLIMATE your recently rooted Tricho into bright, full, hot sun. They can sunburn just like you and I!
Other Notes of Interest
If you want to propagate (start new cuttings) from your cactus, just do as stated at the beginning. Take a clean knife or saw and cut off a piece/pieces and let dry and start the cycle over. You should get multiple new tips forming at the top of the cut in a few weeks! If your plant falls over and snaps, don’t stress out, just start over and turn into a new cutting!
Sometimes cactus will get a black spot or area on the tip or along it’s side. Sometimes these are caused by bruising, being poked by other cactus, etc. Sometimes they just appear. Lots of forums discussing this, sometimes it even looks like a little drip is coming out of it which usually is dry to the touch. Don’t panic! These black spots will turn into regular little scars in a few weeks/months and will grow down as new growth grows from the top. The key here is understanding the difference between these black spots versus real black rotted sections. Rotted cactus you can push your finger into. If your cactus gets damaged on the side and doesn’t heal properly, you will need to cut the dead section out. Your cactus should heal just fine, but the black/orange gooey flesh needs to go!
Flowers!!! Some are larger than others. Smaller cactus tend to have smaller flowers. Your first flowers will appear as small balls of white fur. Don’t knock them off! These balls will soon turn into flowers. Cereus and Trichocereus tend to have giant white/yellow flowers that bees and hummingbirds will go crazy over! We feed our flowers to our tortoises. They love them too! Sometimes your cactus will also produce fruit and seed pods, which are cool too!
Your columnar catus should grow at least a foot a year! Some may grow more, others less, obviously lots of factors involved here! Within each type of cactus species there will be variation. For example,different types of Trichocereus also grow differently in size and spine length, as well as color and shape. The rarer Bridgesii tend to always be on the skinnier side of the more commonly traded and collected San Pedro with their spines being randomly longer than the SP’s. Peruvian Torches have lots of long spines. Bic Macs are..Big and fat! San Pedros vary as well, some cuts are fat logs, others are skinnier. No two are alike! None are perfect, but that’s life!
Don’t hesitate to email us with questions and or suggestions to our Cutting page, we’re always open to learning new things and providing a better product to our customers.
Propagating Night Blooming Cereus: How To Take Night Blooming Cereus Cuttings
Night blooming cereus is one of the easiest cactus from which to take cuttings. These succulents can root in just a few weeks from cuttings that are taken in spring from its leaves. Propagating night blooming cereus from cuttings is faster and easier than trying to start new plants from seed. In this article, we’ll give you a few tips on how to propagate a night blooming cereus for the best chance at doubling your stock of these amazing plants.
Night Blooming Cereus Cuttings
Night blooming cereus is a leggy plant with flat leaves and gangly stems, but when it is blooming it goes from wall flower to star of the show. The fragrant dinner plate sized blooms are worth waiting for as they perfume your whole house. Rooting night blooming cereus to create more plants is easy. These cactus root quickly and establish as single plants in less than a month.
The best time to take cuttings is during the growing seasons, spring through summer. This is when plant cells are at their most active and can be induced to produce roots rather than leaf cells.
Use clean, sharp implements anytime you take a cutting from a plant. Night blooming cereus cuttings should be 6 to 9 inches long and from terminal growth. This is where plant cells are youngest and easiest to influence.
Let the cuttings callus in a warm dry location for up to 2 weeks. The ends will be whitish and closed. The callus step is crucial to rooting night blooming cereus. It is from this callus that the root cells will form.
How to Propagate a Night Blooming Cereus
Once you have your callused plant material, you need to prepare your medium. You can use a standard cactus potting soil or create a mixture of coarse sand and peat for propagating cereus cactus.
Choose a container that drains well, such as a terra cotta pot, and one that is just a couple of inches bigger than the diameter of the leaf.
Insert the cutting, callus side down, into you potting medium. Bury the cutting in the medium about half way and firm the soil around to remove any air pockets.
Water your cutting and then only irrigate as often as you would an adult cactus. Never let soil get soggy, as the cutting will simply rot and any new roots will melt away. Keep the container in a cool, bright location for two weeks as roots form.
Care When Propagating Cereus Cactus
Once your cactus has roots, it is time to move it to a slightly warmer location. The cutting shouldn’t need repotting for a couple of years and can be grown on in its small pot.
During the growing season, fertilize with a soluble plant fertilizer once per month. Just before blooms form, use a high phosphorus food to improve blooming.
If any damage occurs to the stems and leaves, simply cut it off, trim the piece to where healthy tissue is and allow it to callus, propagating night blooming cereus anew. In just a short time, you could have so many of these plants you’ll be begging your friends to take one away.
How to Grow Night Blooming Cereus Cuttings
Night Blooming Cactus at Dawn image by Richard Haworth from Fotolia.com
Native to Central and South American rain forests, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) is a climbing cactus sans the thorns. In maturity, it blooms in seven-inch, highly fragrant flowers, bi-weekly, from mid-summer to fall, from midnight until dawn, for one day only. If pollinated during this period, the plant will produce red berries after blooming. Night-blooming cereus can be grown outdoors, in the landscape, in the warmer regions of the U.S. Fortunately for northern gardeners, it thrives in pots as well. Take the cutting after the plant has finished blooming.
Use a sharp knife to cut a four- to six-inch length of stem off the night blooming cereus. Cut at a node, which is an area that looks like a joint.
Allow the cutting to sit in a dry area for two days.
Fill a planting pot with dry sand. Use your finger to create a planting hole for the cutting.
Dip the cut end of the night blooming cereus cutting into the rooting hormone and then stick it in the prepared planting hole.
Water the night blooming cereus cutting two days after planting by misting the soil with water from the misting bottle until it is barely moist.
Place the pot in a shady area until the night blooming cereus has rooted. You will know this has occurred when a gentle tug on it meets with resistance. Place the cutting in filtered sunlight and water it until the water drains from the bottom of the pot.
Night Blooming Cereus 3.JPG
Night blooming cereus blooms generally during the summer, primarily from about May or June through October — occasionally later. Blooming is sporadic, not continuous, and plants must be old enough before they bloom (generally, two years from a rooted cutting).
(Courtesy of LSU AgCenter)
QUESTION: Can you give me some information about growing a night blooming cereus? At what time of year do they usually bloom? Besides feeding with blossom booster, is there anything else I can do to encourage blooming? What do you recommend about exposure to sunlight? There is a mixture of leaves on my plants; some are broad and some are pencil-thin. Is that normal? — Tim Robicheaux
ANSWER: The night blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) is a traditional container porch plant grown by generations of New Orleans gardeners. I regularly get questions about how to properly grow it.
The broad growth and the thin growth you see is quite normal. Like most members of the cactus family (Cactaceae), these plants do not have leaves.
In their native South American rain forest habitat, they grow up in the trees scrambling among the branches. The leaf-like structures are flattened stems that function like leaves. The pencil-thin stems allow the plant to climb up in the trees where they live.
Blooms generally occur during the summer, primarily from about May or June through October — occasionally later. Blooming is sporadic, not continuous, and plants must be old enough before they bloom (generally, two years from a rooted cutting).
The flowers open about 11 p.m. or later, so you have to stay up to see them (a New Orleans tradition and great excuse for a party).
For sleepyheads, pick a fully open flower and put the stem in a glass of water in the refrigerator. While the flowers on the plant will be withered by morning, the flower in the fridge will still be fresh.
Fertilizer is not that important to getting them to bloom. Fertilize once a month during summer using your favorite soluble fertilizer, following label directions.
Most important is providing enough light. Avoid harsh, full-sun locations. A spot that gets direct sun in the morning and shade the rest of the day will provide enough light for a night blooming cereus to bloom well. If you provide too much sun, the foliage will get yellowish with red or pink tints. This is considered less attractive, but I saw a night blooming cereus grown in a lot of sun produce 12 flowers one time.
If you put the plant in complete shade without morning sun, it will be less likely to bloom and will bloom less when it does.
Plants do best grown in well-drained potting soil or a cactus and succulent mix. Water as soon as the soil becomes dry. If you do not water often enough, the plant will look shriveled. Keeping the soil constantly wet, however, will encourage root rot. Shift to a larger container only when absolutely necessary. The plants generally bloom best when pot bound.
They are not cold hardy. Bring them indoors and put them in a bright window during the months when freezes may occur.
Two plants are called night-blooming cereus:
One is a night blooming, fragrant epiphytic cactus, classified as Hylocereus due to the TRIANGULATE leaves, and upright growth to 15′. Selenicereus grandiflorus is commonly called night-blooming cereus or Queen-of-the-Night. The leaves look like squared off – three point versions of prickly pear with numerous, repetitive spines on the edges. True Cereus species are rounded stemmed and usually have tiny leaves. Flowers have funnel shaped interior petals, with daisy-like exterior petals.
Another is an Epiphyllum; also a night blooming cactus species but with a shrubby, prostrate, almost cascading characteristic and an overall height of 8′ max in the wild. Leaves look almost smooth, are very long,… FLAT…. and have spines only on the margins at the indentations. Flowers are very petalous. Most common one is Epiphyllum oxypetalum.
Read more here.
CARE: Bright shade, low fertility, careful watering. Segments of Epiphylum can be rooted by inserting the lower third in potting soil.
Tags For This Article: cactus, houseplants
Night Blooming Cereus Care
They don’t require as much water as some of our leafy tropical plants. I allow mine to dry out between watering, and then give it a good soak. Mine dries out fairly swiftly due to its placement in my house and the fact that it’s kept in terra cotta. Your watering schedule will ultimately depend on your environment (arid or humid), type of pot, amount of light, etc. Just don’t let them sit in soggy soil! In fall and winter, water less than during the growing season, and in mid-winter you can stop watering for about a month before resuming a normal watering scheduled.
Temperature & Humidity
These plants will tolerate normal household temperatures with ease. While they can tolerate chilly temperatures at night, do not leave them out when there is a risk of frost! They will appreciate humidity slightly higher than your average household, so consider keeping them grouped with other plants, or in a room with a humidifier, to help boost your humidity if your home is particularly dry.
Starting Night Blooming Cereus from Cuttings
On November 20th my husband was given a stalk of night blooming cereus for rooting. I have read several sites but none tell me where to cut the stalk for rooting. The stem is almost three feet long with a “Y” branch. One side of the “Y” is one foot long with a new shoot just off the tip and the other branch is two feet long. Do I cut only at the branch joints or can I divide up the three and two feet sections as well? I mentioned the date because it seems that this particular plant is very sensitive to specific times of the year. Any additional suggestions for propagating the cuttings would also be greatly appreciated.
As you guessed timing will influence your chance of success. Spring is the best time to start cacti from seed or cuttings. Since you have the cuttings you might as well give it a shot. Cut your cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) into several smaller pieces. Cut the side shoots where they form the Y. Keep the main stem and try to root it as well. Allow the cut ends to callus over by storing the cuttings in a warm dry place for up to 2 weeks. Once the ends seal closed you can stick the cuttings (bottom end down) in a well drained cactus mix. Consider using a clay pot with drainage holes so the soil dries faster reducing the risk of rot. Place the potted cuttings in a cool bright location and wait for roots to form. Water only as often as you would a mature cactus. Avoid over watering that leads to root rot and death of the plant. In a few months you should have three new rooted cereus plants.
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If you are looking for a strange and exotic houseplant, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, or Queen of the Night, definitely fits that ticket. Sometimes you will also see this plant named Night Blooming Cereus, or more generically as orchid cactus, but if you follow me on my blog and on my Instagram (@ohiotropics), you know how I feel about common names! Why should you grow Epiphyllum oxypetalum?
- They are a cinch to grow
- They grow quickly
- They are very exotic and unusual looking
- They produce some of the most stunning flowers you will ever see
- They bloom only at night so this adds quite a bit of intrigue! I have a story about this later…so keep reading
Ephiphyllum Oxypetalum in Nature
It’s always wise to take a cue from where and how plants grow in nature, so that we can better understand how to grow them in our homes.
This plant is actually a species of jungle cactus, and is related to what you may know as “orchid cactus” (which is not an orchid at all, but it is a cactus.) Hey, at least half of the common name is accurate.
Epiphyllums are native to parts of Mexico, and Central and South America. For the most part, they are largely epiphytic, like most orchids and bromeliads.
This means that they grow on tree trunks or branches. They will send out growth and ramble among the canopy.
Since these are actually cacti, just like their desert relatives, this means that they have no leaves. The “leaves” are actually modified stems!
As I mentioned, these plants are epiphytes and grow in shadier locations in the jungle. So be sure not to give them TOO much direct sun, but at the same time if you place them in too dark of a location, they will not bloom for you.
Years ago, I had propagated an Epiphyllum oxypetalum from my great aunt. She would always trade cuttings with other ladies from work, so she gave me some cuttings.
It grew into a monster as a floor specimen, and it actually reached the ceiling!
It was so long ago, but I was fortunate enough to have kept a picture of when it started blooming. I will reveal the secrets of how I got it to bloom later. Isn’t it gorgeous?
For the Epiphyllum oxypetalum that I had growing up, it grew in front of a large southern facing window. In the winter, the blinds were wide open and it was able to take those conditions.
During the rest of the year, the direct sun was filtered with blinds so that it received very bright, but indirect light, for most of the year.
This really proved to be a great location for this plant. Remember, it can not take too much direct sunshine.
Many, many years later, I obtained another one for myself and it lives happily in front of an Eastern window.
These plants are often sold in hanging baskets, but I prefer mine as either floor plants, or on plant stands. They will end up looking awkward eventually in a hanging basket, and grow much too large.
I do like to grow them in a heavy pot, either terra cotta or a ceramic pot, because they can get top heavy.
Long Shoots on Epiphyllum
Have you ever wondered what the long shoots are on your Epiphyllum oxypetalum, or maybe on your other species of Epiphyllum? Take a look at the wild and crazy stolons on my plant below:
After going considerable research, the long growths that you see are very normal. In the wild, Epiphyllum oxypetalum will send out long stolons and then attach onto a tree with the roots.
If you look closely at the photo, you can see little roots along the stolons. This is the natural growth habit and how the plant will move around the tree canopies, possibly in search of better light!
Epiphyllum Oxypetalum Potting Soil
Being epiphytic plants, these plants really need a very loose, well drained potting mix. The Epiphyllum Society of America recommends using a camelia or azalea potting mix, to which you would add perlite and bark.
If you don’t want to purchase a camelia or azalea potting mix, you can do what I do. I’ve achieved perfectly good results with my custom blend of materials that I always have on hand.
I’ll use whatever all-purpose potting mix I have on hand, and then I like to mix in some perlite and moth orchid bark mix. Remember, epiphytes need an airy potting mix and demand superior drainage.
I’ll use a combination of the Espoma Potting Mix, to which I add additional Perlite, and also handfuls of moth orchid bark mix.
These are all materials that I ALWAYS have on hand. I rarely use a potting mix anymore without amending it somehow to suit various plants.
I don’t have any strict measurements. Just take your all-purpose potting mix, add a couple handfuls of perlite and a couple big handfuls of the orchid bark, and it will be a far superior potting mix for any of your epiphytic jungle cacti!
How Do You Get Orchid Cactus to Bloom?
Proper light is always #1 when it comes to getting any plant to flower the way it should.
Another way to encourage blooming in many plants, including Epiphyllum oxypetalum, is to make sure that you don’t put them in too large of a pot. They do like to be somewhat root bound, so don’t go crazy repotting.
If you do need to repot, only go up one or two pot sizes larger than where you started.
Use a general houseplant fertilizer, or one that is a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as the Schultz cactus fertilizer that I love using on all my succulents and cacti.
I like to use this fertilizer on all my succulents and cacti (whether the cacti are desert cacti or tropical cacti like Epiphyllum), from about February or so until about October. I will typically not fertilize from October through January.
But here is a secret weapon. I had experimented with this and it produced fantastic results to get my Epiphyllum oxypetalum to bloom abundantly.
Want to know what sparked my Epiphyllum oxypetalum into bloom?
Dried Banana Peels for Fertilizer
You read it correctly! Dried banana peels for fertilizer! Years ago, when I grew the giant Epiphyllum oxypetalum at my parents’ house before I moved out, I had read about a trick to help encourage plants to bloom.
The plant was almost up to the ceiling, huge and several years old. But no blooms! It was getting plenty of light, so that certainly was not the reason why it wasn’t flowering.
So I dried some banana peels, mixed them into the soil, and within a short time, the plant started growing the gorgeous, exotic blooms!
Whether this was coincidence or not, dried banana peels are a wonderful way to supplement your houseplants with readily available nutrients.
How to Dry Banana Peels
There are multiple ways that you can dry banana peels. Cut them up into small sections to speed up the drying process and then use one of the following methods to dry them:
You can use a food dehydrator.
You can dry them in the oven at 160F with the door slightly propped open or ajar. Please don’t forget about the oven though. Safety first!
You can place them on top of a wire mesh or screen outside in full sun, with another screen on top so animals don’t get to it. You will have to repeat this for a few days, and bring them inside or in a sheltered location at night so condensation doesn’t wet the banana peels.
Use any of the above methods, but the end goal is to have very, very dry and crispy banana peels.
Once you have thoroughly dried out the banana peels, you can either use them as is, or you can use a food processor or a high powered blender and beat up the dried banana peels into a powder or smaller chunks.
This will speed up the availability of the nutrients once you add it to the soil.
Then simply take some of the dried banana peels and top dress your pot with them. Incorporate them into the top layer of the soil, and water them in if your plant is dry.
Why do banana peels make amazingly wonderful fertilizer for flowering plants?
Use dried banana peels in conjunction with your regular fertilizer because banana peels contain no nitrogen, which is needed for leafy growth.
The NPK analysis on dried banana peels is 0-3-42. The banana peels will break down more quickly than other organic fertilizer that you purchase.
The Potassium, Phosphorus and Calcium the peels provide will be very beneficial for your plants, whether they are flowering plants or not.
Why not give your plants a boost with dried banana peels? The bananas are healthy for you to eat, and then you can make your own fertilizer with the peels.
Just make sure that you use it in conjunction with other fertilizers since banana peels contain no Nitrogen, which is also important for plant growth.
Add your homemade banana peel fertilizer around the end of winter, in the February to March timeframe. See what happens! You may just get lucky enough to get flowers.
Keep in mind that a plant typically will need to be at least 3 years old before flowering can occur.
Watering Epiphyllum Oxypetalum
Be careful not to let your pot dry out completely. For most of my plants, in larger pots, I like to use the rule of thumb of letting the top inch to two inches dry out, and then I water thoroughly.
Don’t let your Epiphyllum sit in water for extended periods. As epiphytes in nature, they demand excellent drainage and should never sit in water for any extended period.
Epiphyllum Oxypetalum Flowers
Epiphyllum oxypetalum typically bloom in Spring or Summer. And one word of caution! The flowers will open up at night and if you get up too late the next day, they will be completely done! They only last one night!
You can imagine the excitement after my gigantic plant bloomed for the first time. I noticed the buds starting to grow off the modified stems and watched them grow day by day.
Be sure to check them every night though, because if you miss the critical one night that the flower is open, you will be very disappointed!
The flowers that you see in the photo above were a full 9 inches in diameter! Amazing!
They also have a lovely fragrance, and although their flowers last but only one night, they are totally worth it. If you are lucky, your plant may put out multiple flowers.
Placing Your Epiphyllum Outdoors
Another very beneficial thing for your Epiphyllum is to place them outdoors when the weather is warm enough.
Wait until the night time temperatures are consistently a minimum of 55F or so before you place them outside.
Houseplants can greatly benefit from summering outdoors, especially epiphytes such as Epiphyllum, orchids, and bromeliads.
Be sure to place your plant in complete shade first so it doesn’t burn. Your plant will have spent a long time indoors in less than ideal conditions, so your plant will need time to harden off.
Keep it in complete shade for several days. Then you can maybe move it to an area with dappled sun, or maybe just a touch of morning sun. Avoid harsh mid-afternoon sun or your plant may quickly burn.
Propagating Queen of the Night
Propagating Epiphyllum oxypetalum is very easy.
Select a leaf to cut and cut off a 4-6 inch portion or so from the tip of a leaf. Take multiple cuttings if you’d like.
Dip the end of the cutting that you cut into a rooting hormone.
I always have this rooting hormone on hand for soil propagation projects. It will increase your chances, and speed, of rooting. It is inexpensive and well worth it.
This step is critical! Be sure that you then place your cutting(s) in a cool and relatively darker area for a good two weeks, or close to it. Why?
Because you need to let any succulent or cactus (remember, this is a tropical cactus) dry out and callous over where the cut is so that you can minimizing rotting.
Then simply insert them in an epiphyllum potting mix that I described earlier in this post. Use a smaller pot, maybe 4 or 5 inches. Or 6 inches at the most if you have multiple cuttings.
Insert the cutting about an inch deep or so and make sure that it is secure and not flopping around.
Wait at least 7-10 days before watering. Then give it a light water. Keep it on the dry side with occasional watering when the medium is dry to almost completely dry.
After new growth is visible, then you can start a regular watering regiment.
For other blog posts that relate to the topics of this post, please visit these useful articles that will elaborate on topics that were not fully covered in this post:
Check out my blog post on how to repot a houseplant.
Check out this blog post on summering your houseplants outside. It goes in depth on how to properly make the transition so your plants don’t undergo shock.
So there you go! So whatever you call it…Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Queen of the Night or any other common name, this is one of the most unusual, delightful plants that you can easily grow indoors.
And few plants can match the flower power of Epiphyllum oxypetalum! Just don’t get up out of bed too late or you may miss the flowers…