How to root geraniums?

Geranium Plant Propagation – Learn How To Start Geranium Cuttings

Geraniums are some of the most popular houseplants and bedding plants out there. They’re easy to maintain, tough, and very prolific. They’re also very easy to propagate. Keep reading to learn more about geranium plant propagation, particularly how to start geranium cuttings.

Taking Geranium Plant Cuttings

Starting geraniums from cuttings is very easy. One major bonus is the fact that geraniums have no dormant period. They grow continuously throughout the year, which means they can be propagated at any time, too, with no need to wait for a particular time of year like with most plants.

It is better, however, to wait for a lull in the plant’s blooming cycle. When taking cuttings from geranium plants, cut with a pair of sharp shears just above a node, or a swollen part of the stem. Cutting here will encourage new growth on the mother plant.

On your new cutting, make another cut just below a node, so that the length from the leafy tip to the node at the base is between 4 and 6 inches. Strip off all but the leaves on the tip. This is what you’ll be planting.

Rooting Cuttings from Geranium Plants

While 100% success is unlikely, geranium plant cuttings take root very well and don’t need any herbicide or fungicide. Simply stick your cutting in a pot of warm, damp, sterile potting soil. Water thoroughly and place the pot in a bright location out of direct sunlight.

Don’t cover the pot, as geranium plant cuttings are prone to rotting. Water the pot whenever the soil feels dry. After just a week or two, your geranium plant cuttings should have taken root.

If you want to plant your cuttings directly in the ground, let them sit in the open air for 3 days first. This way the cut tip will start to form a callus, which will help defend against fungus and rot in the non-sterile garden soil.

Propagating geraniums by taking cuttings is an easy way to multiply your plants and an ideal plant to clone.

Once you master the basics of propagating geraniums, no geranium plant will be safe from your garden pruner!

Ivy-leaved Geraniums were the first plants I learned how to propagate and I remember asking, “Why isn’t everyone doing this?”

You probably have a geranium in your garden right now that you can practice your cloning chops with.

If not, take a walk around the block and when you spot one you like, ask your neighbor for permission and take a cutting!

Why Propagate Your Own Plants?

The garden centers are full of affordable, eye catching plants these days.

Why multiply your own plants?

If you have a favorite or nostalgic plant that isn’t produced anymore and isn’t patented- cuttings are an ideal way to make more plants!

Best of all, it’s free.

Watch the Video: “How to Turn One Geranium into Many Geraniums: Gardens of the Rich and Famous”

For those of you who like to watch my “how-to” videos, here’s one that’s short, informative, and entertaining.

I promise you’ll remember every step!

My husband did, and he’s not a gardener.

Not even close!

Watch the new”Gardens of the Rich and Famous” web series on Digs Channel- Youtube!

I’m their gardening expert.

Materials For Geranium Propagation

  • Sanitized hand pruner or scissors
  • Small pots
  • Sterile, lightweight potting soil
  • Spray bottle for watering your cuttings
  • Rooting hormone to stimulate root growth
  • Plastic zip loc or storage bags to use as “mini-greenhouse”
  • A healthy “mother plant” to take cuttings from

Steps For Propagating Geraniums

1. Select a healthy geranium plant that will act as the “mother plants” from which all new plants will come from.

It’s all about the genes, so go ahead and discriminate!

Look for sturdy stems, green leaves, robust flowers and avoid plants that are diseased or infested with pests.

It’s best to identify your mother plant while it’s in flower so that you know what to expect from it- your plant will be a clone!

2. Take cuttings.

You will need to cut a stem that is between four to six inches long.

Take your cuttings early in the day, morning is ideal because of mild temperatures.

Cutting a plant during the hottest part of the day can magnify stress in a plant.

Remember, you are extracting a living entity from it’s life source and creating a new home for it!

Make it comfortable transition!

Short geranium stem

Cut your geranium stem at a 45-degree angle, directly below a node.

Illustration of node on a plant stem

A node is a swelling along the stem where leaves emerge from.

The new roots of your geranium plant will grow beneath the node, so make sure to make a clean cut.

3. Remove the lower leaves from the stem and any flowers or buds along the top.

Lower leaves are vulnerable to rotting since they may come in contact with the soil.

Flowers and buds should be removed in order for your new plant to concentrate on growing roots and not to maintain flowers!

Three or four leaves should be retained along the top of the stem for photosynthesis and to support the growing cycle.

Rooting hormone for stem cuttings

4. Dip the bottom of your stem into rooting hormone.

Some gardeners argue that rooting hormone is not necessary for success in cloning geraniums, but I find that it gives new plants a “fighting chance.”

Dip the bottom 1/4 inch of the stem into rooting hormone and dust off the excess powder.

Too much rooting hormone can damage a young plant.

Less is more.

Geranium cuttings in pots

5. Insert your cuttings into a small pot that is filled with pre-moistened lightweight, sterile potting soil.

Bury the part of the stem that has rooting hormone on it.

It’s vital that the soil be moist for the cuttings to prevent wilting.

Misting bottle for cuttings

6. Mist your cuttings!!

During the first few weeks of the growing period, mist your plants daily so that they don’t dry out.

Avoid using a watering can- the force of the water stream can dislodge plants.

Protect your cuttings from evaporation!

It’s the cause of death for many new plants.

Zip loc bag as a mini greenhouse!

7. Cover your cutting pots with a plastic bag.

Oh, the joy of repurposing materials for the garden!

Zip loc bags are a great substitute for mini-greenhouses and for maintaining warm temperatures and moist environments for your new plants.

New plants can’t take up water like mature plants do, because they lack roots.

It’s the job of the propagator to provide a protective environment within the mini- greenhouse walls.

Take care that the bag doesn’t “collapse” on the plants, prop it up with stakes if necessary.

No direct sun!

8. Place your cuttings in a bright, sunny spot, but avoid direct sunlight!

Temperature plays an important role in plant growth and root formation.

Ideal soil temperatures for rooting plants is between 70 to 75 degrees.

Difussed sunlight is best as the sun’s rays are intensified under the plastic and may scorch the plant.

Find a draft-free area and avoid wind tunnels or you’re sure to send your plants flying!

9. Check your cuttings every day for the next few weeks!

You will be looking for moist soil and for any pests that may have invaded the mini greenhouse.

It shouldn’t take more than a minute to mist your plants and move them to a new location if necessary.

Wait Actively For Your New Plants!

Indulge yourself in the wonder of life as you witness tiny nodes swell, new leaves emerge and threadlike roots start to form on your new plant!

You’ll be transformed into a proud plant parent!

Propagating plants is a rewarding hobby.

Within four to six weeks, you will have a new plant that is capable of living outside of it’s “incubator!”

This is the amount of time needed for the plant to grow roots and sustain itself.

You’ll know that your plant has formed roots when you gently tug at it and you feel resisitance!

Transplant your baby plant into a larger pot or add it to a mixed container with other plants!

Shirley, gardening expert on the new, “Gardens of the Rich and Famous” show on Digs Channel, Youtube


You’re on your way to becoming a plant propagator!

If you’re ready for more plant propagating adventure, read my other blog posts and watch my gardening videos:


Red Fountain grass

Don’t be shy!

Taking Geranium & Pelargonium Cuttings

There is no particular time of the year for taking cuttings of many of the members of the pelargonium family, because they have no dormancy and grow for twelve months of the year. However, success will depend on being able to supply good light and warm compost. A propagator is a worthwhile investment for any enthusiastic gardener. It is a good idea to get going on the regal varieties first if you need more of these, as they take longer to root and longer to come into bloom than the zonal types.

Whilst I’d always encourage you to expand your collection by trying out new varieties (and of course, ordering them all from Vernon’s!), taking your own cuttings of geraniums is also an exciting part of this wonderful hobby of growing and collecting geraniums! If you’ve never tried it before then do give it a go – I still get a thrill when fresh, white roots are coming out of the base of a cutting I’ve taken. There is no such thing as 100% success but if you have a method that works for then I’d always say stick with it.

There is no particular time of the year for taking cuttings of the geranium family, because they have no dormancy and grow for twelve months of the year. However, success will depend on being able to supply good light and warm compost.

Your requirements will be a mother plant, a sharp knife, some seed compost and some means of keeping the compost warm once the cuttings are inserted.

  1. Cut the mother plant just above a leaf joint on the main stem and then trim the cutting you’ve taken to just below the joint.
  2. Strip off most of the leaves.
  3. Don’t take a great long cutting. The healthiest past of a plant is nearest the growing tip, so short cuttings are best, and once rooted they will soon catch up with long ones.
  4. The cuttings need to be inserted into warm, damp sterilised compost. Do not let them dry out and keep them in a light, dry atmosphere. Never put the lid down on a propagator if you are rooting any of the pelargonium family – they are very prone to rotting in high humidity.
  5. Wait and few weeks and your cuttings should have rooted!

Some years ago someone once wrote in a pelargonium magazine that it was beneficial to use a solution of vitamin C for cuttings, so we tried it and had to agree it helped, so we have been using it ever since. We put about half a teaspoonful of powder in a couple of eggcupfuls of cold water and stir it with anything that is non-metallic (usually a plant label) and it is stored in a dark bottle. Tablets would do just as well as powder – and what you don’t use for your geranium cuttings can be made into a drink – so it will do you both good! We never use hormone-rooting powders or liquid, as this makes the ends go soft and they are more likely to rot than root.

Do not get distraught if a few do not make it – one hundred per cent success is a very high standard to try to achieve! The important thing is to enjoy what you are doing, and we think you will always feel a sense of achievement when you manage to increase your stock of a plant. We always do!

Taking Geranium Cuttings

Geranium cuttings are easy to take, and 20 cuttings can be taken from each parent plant! Geraniums give better growth and thicker flower density in their first years, so it is far better to take cuttings than to rely on the flowering of older plants.
Geraniums don’t have a dormant period during winter, so can be taken any time during the season, but April is the perfect time to take geranium cuttings.
Success relies on light, warmth and watering for the best results – warmth and longer daylight hours produce stronger plants.
Taking Geranium Cuttings
1. Cut the parent plant just above a leaf joint on the main stem and then trim the cutting you’ve taken to just below the joint. Creating an angled cut with a sharp knife will give a clean cut and ensure that the threat from disease is reduced.

2. Strip off most of the leaves and make sure the cutting is between 3”-4” long. The healthiest part of a plant is nearest the growing tip, so short cuttings are best.

3. We place our softwood cuttings into the Hydropod Cuttings Propagator. A mist of water and nutrients is sprayed over the roots which gives them constant access to oxygen, water and nutrient. If growing in compost: fill a deep tray or small 3″ pot with warm, damp sterilised compost. Make a furrow using a dibber or pencil, and insert the cutting into the compost. Push down on the compost around the cutting to remove any air gaps, or use a tamper.

4. Do not let cuttings dry out and keep them in a light, dry atmosphere. Geranium cuttings will struggle to root if the humidity is too high – so use the vents on your propagator to manage the humidity levels.
Have a look at the coleus cutting we have rooted in the Hydropod – and there is a little more information about chrysanthemum and fuchsia cuttings.
If you have any questions about the cuttings you are rooting, get in touch with our Gardening Angels on 0845 602 3774 or email [email protected]

Propagating Geraniums Using Stem Cuttings
Master Gardener Scoop – January 10, 2018

By Jeanette M. Endres,
Master Gardener

Christmas poinsettias and cacti are still blooming but it is time to think of spring and propagating flowers for the spring master gardener plant swap.
I brought two large geranium plants in the house to overwinter in a bright sunny window.
They are proving good material for propagating new plants. The geraniums we buy for bedding plants and those that can be easily propagated from cuttings are from the family Geraniaceae . Pelargoniums are known botanically as geraniums.
There is no particular time of the year to take cuttings, because they have no dormancy and grow for twelve months of the year. Some gardeners believe the best time to take cuttings is early spring and later summer, but with the right conditions, any time can result in healthy cuttings.
Early cuttings, the ones you take now, should flower this summer, while later cuttings will provide larger plants ready to flower the following summer. Flowering usually begins two to four months after the cuttings have roots.
I use one part peat moss to two parts vermiculite by volume for the sterile material. Some gardeners use sterile sand or vermiculite alone.
Sterile rooting mixes include peat, sand, perlite or a combination of these materials. They are light and porous while allowing good moisture retention and airflow to the developing roots.
Use containers that are clean and will provide some moisture. I use a 4-5inch deep flat with good drainage, and keep the temperature around 68-70 degrees. If you want to try only a few cuttings the University of Illinois (Master Gardner Manual Edition 2, 2014) suggests a 6 “clay pot with drainage hole covered.
Fill half of pot with moistened vermiculite and insert a small clay porous 2-3” pot with drainage hole clogged using a cork or other waterproof material. Insert the small pot into the middle of the larger pot.
Fill and moisten vermiculite in large pot.
Fill the smaller pot with water.
Insert cuttings around the small pot and as the vermiculite dries out, water from small pot will keep vermiculite moist.
Take cuttings from a geranium stalk that are not blooming. Roots grow from leaf nodes, areas on the stalk where the leaf bud emerges.
Take stem cuttings about 3- 4 inches long. Cuts should be made about ¼” below a node. Remove all leaves from the lower 1 ¼ inches of the stem. The lower 1” of the stems can be dusted with a root hormone.
I have equal success using or not using a root hormone.
It will take three to four weeks for roots to develop. Do not let plants dry out and keep them in a lighted, dry atmosphere.
I use a heat mat and supply moisture weekly but do not cover the plants, since they are very prone to rotting in high humidity.
Be prepared to transplant cuttings to a potting soil when roots have developed since sterile rooting mixtures will not sustain the plants.
It is a good idea to start on the regal varieties (Martha Washington) first, since they take longer to root and longer to come into bloom than the zonal types that are the typical bedding plants.
If you have never tried propagating geraniums before, then try it.
I still get a thrill when fresh, white roots are coming out of the base of a geranium cutting.
For more information, contact your local University of Illinois Extension Office.


Wayne Handlos, Ph.D.

The most common method for propagating pelargoniums/geraniums is by cuttings. This is what in the past was called �taking slips�.

While it is possible to grow geraniums from seed, most highly regarded cultivars can only be reproduced consistently by cuttings. Open-pollinated flowers will not usually come true from seed in pelargoniums. So the only way to reproduce the plant you see is through vegetative means, i.e. taking cuttings and maintaining the clone.

Cuttings are taken from the ends of actively growing stems. The terminal two to four inches are cut from the parental plant with a sharp knife, razor blade or shears. The shoot should have at least two to four leaves. Cut the stem just below a node (the point where the leaf is attached to the stem) . Roots will only develop from the region of a node. Remove the leaves from the lowest one or two nodes. Bend the leaf until it breaks cleanly from the stem. (In some of the scented varieties of Pelargonium, the leaves may have to be bent carefully to the side so as not to strip tissue from and damage the stem.) Ideally the cutting should still have two to four large leaves.

The cutting is rooted in potting mix which is prepared by adding perlite or vermiculite to a commercially prepared potting mix. The mix should be about one-third to one-half perlite or vermiculite. It is easiest to root the cuttings in their own pots; a two inch pot is about the right size. Make a hole in the potting mix (a pencil works well) and insert the cutting so that at least one node is covered by the mix. Push the mix gently around the cutting to firm it in place. Add a label to the pot so you remember the name of the cultivar. (Use a pencil to write the label because many permanent inks fade in sunlight. Some inks are completely soluble in water.) Water the cutting gently and thoroughly so that water comes out the bottom of the pot. Keep the cutting out of direct, hot sun for a day or two. Keep it moist but not soggy. Some modern zonal varieties may root within two weeks (they are selected for their rooting ability), but some varieties may take much longer. Older, woody stems tend to root more slowly too and you may have to wait six weeks or more for a root system to develop.

If you are making cuttings from several different cultivars, disinfect your knife, blade or shears between plants. This will reduce the transmission of disease organisms and viruses from plant to plant. Be sure to wash old pots before reusing them.

Plants may benefit from bottom heat especially during the cooler days of the year. Propagating mats are available for this purpose at some garden centers.

When you see roots coming out of the bottom of your pot, the cutting is ready to be planted in regular potting mix. Invert the pot and gently tap it against a solid surface until the plant and soil fall from the pot. Carefully place the rooted cutting in a slightly larger pot, add soil, tap gently to settle the mix and water gently. You are on your way!

Got a veritable jungle in your living room? Geraniums on every sunny windowsill? If you’re a real houseplant junkie you know that it’s an addiction that can get expensive: there’s the soil, the fertilizer, the endless scaling up of pots.

There is, however, one part of the equation you don’t have to break the bank on, and that’s the plant itself. Read on for the spend-thrift’s guide to growing your own houseplants from teeny-weeny, totally free cuttings. The plants below are some of the easiest to propagate, so you’re sure to have success with these.


Rosmarie Wirz/Getty

A close cousin to the geranium, pelargonium is undoubtedly more elegant and just as easy to grow. Find a specimen you really love and pinch a 3-inch section off at a node (the knobby bit along the stem that looks like a plant elbow). Remove all but the top two pairs of leaves and wrap the stem in moist tissue (especially if it’ll be a long drive back from the scene of the crime).

At home, immerse the cutting’s bottom-most nodes in water. Within two to three weeks you should start seeing the pale protrusions of roots, worming out from the cut end of the stem. Wait until you have a cluster of two or three longish roots before planting in a small pot (think 3-inch round or so) of freely draining potting soil. After you’ve conquered your first cutting, a whole world of planty possibilities will open up. That long and leggy scarlet-flowered beauty hanging from the town hall’s porch? Go ahead, sneak a piece. You know you wanna.


Massimo RussoGetty Images

Everyone loves jade — and there’s good reason why. This plant is one of the easiest to propagate, requiring just a single leaf to grow a new glossy plant. Like almost all succulents, jade cuttings need to be calloused before they can sprout roots — a process that can take anywhere from two days to a week.

Related Story

For the super low maintenance method, snip off a jade leaf at its base and place on top of (not in!) freely draining potting soil. Over the course of two to three weeks your jade’s roots will home in on that soil and dig in — just let nature take its course. Eventually, that lonesome leaf will create a tiny jade replica at its base: This is your new jade-to-be. Whatever you do, don’t try to separate the sprout from its cutting! Over the course of a few months the leaf will gradually wither up and disappear on its own time.



Named for the 16th century botanist, Leonhart Fuchs, fuschia’s popularity has stood the test of time. Fuschia magellanica grows in double or single petal in pink, purple, or maroon, but what this plant lacks in variety it makes up for in good old-fashioned un-fussiness. Remember to water fairly frequently (and don’t abandon it to broiling heat) and it will put forth dozens of pendant flowers all spring and summer long.

What’s more, it is very easy to grow from woody cuttings. Just as with pelargonium, snip off a 3-inch piece at a node, place in water for two to three weeks, and presto! Brand new fuschia. It’s important to make a clean cut when working with woodies, so invest in a small pair of sharp scissors.

Mother of Thousands

mansum008Getty Images

Mother of thousands is exactly that: a wildly prolific reproducer. The species hails from Madagascar, along with a whole range of other oddball endemics. What makes mother of thousands a good, solid houseplant is its ability to reproduce vegetatively by growing plantlets along the margins of its leaves.

Once they’ve grown roots, these little plant babies pop off and aim for soil — and mostly just end up on the carpet. Next time you find a reproductive specimen, scoop it up. Treat it like any other new plant, giving it the right-sized pot (not too big, not too small) and keeping the soil moist while it establishes itself in its new digs. It might not look like much, but with a little love and water it’ll grow into a big strong succulent, fit for any sunny sill.


jatraxGetty Images

Silvery and spotted, bright green or pink stemmed, begonias are just so dang diverse. They’re pretty easy to please, too and are happy in low light with sporadic, once-a-week watering.

Buying those really exotic little numbers with all the frills and polka dots can be a pricey affair, so next time you see an irresistible variety, pinch a little piece off the end of a non-flowering stem. As with any stem cutting, make sure to get several nodes to submerge in water — with begonias, this is where root growth will begin.

If you can only snag a leaf, that may work too. Slice the leaf in half, on a diagonal (so that the main veins are severed crosswise) and push the leaf pieces down into potting soil. The key to this method is that the veins come into good contact with the substrate. Water and cover with a plastic bag to keep the soil uniformly and constantly moist. In a month or two, new begonias will sprout from the cut leaves and be ready for transplanting. This method works particularly well with fleshy begonias like the Rexes.

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Propagating Geraniums (pelargoniums) from cuttings is easy and so fun. Quickly and easily get new geraniums from you existing plants and have tons for summer baskets, containers and the garden!

Propagating geraniums has got to be one of the easiest to do from cuttings. Actually these plants are pelargoniums not true geraniums but this is what most of us in the US know pelargoniums by.

Though they are a perennial in zones 10-11 many grow them as annuals. But you can overwinter them in other zones. A link to how that can be done is at the end of this post.

Why Propagate Geraniums from Cuttings

I enjoy starting geraniums from seed especially to get varieties you cannot find in garden centers but I also have a ton of fun starting more plants from cuttings to get clones of the parent plant.

Planting geraniums in a mass of color is a great way to pack a punch. Grouping a certain color also can attract hummingbirds flying over and other pollinators.

Zonal geraniums start quite easily from cuttings, making them a great one for beginners to get a taste of success in propagating from cuttings.

The benefit of cloning is you get the exact same plant as the parent where as with seeds you may have saved you are not quite certain. The plant may have cross pollinated with another and you get a surprise (which can be fun too).

How to take geranium cuttings

Start with a nice, healthy plant. Take a cutting from a fresh, green branch just below a leaf node.

Cut with something clean and very sharp, like sharp pruners, razor or xacto knife. It is important that you take the cutting from a new, green branch.

Old crusty branch below….not what you want.

Clean is Important when Rooting cuttings

I have my pots ready to roll. These have all been washed in hot soapy water with a touch of bleach, then rinsed well and air dried.

Soil Mix for Propagating Geraniums / Pelargoniums

Fill the pots with a 50/50 mix of potting soil and perlite. This makes a great draining medium for rooting.

I have a great money saving DIY potting soil mix I create for most of my containers.

Take your Geranium Cuttings

With your pruners take a cutting about 4 to 5 inches long and leave two healthy leaves on them. When you put the stem into the pot make sure two leaf nodes are covered by the soil mix.

Water well and press the soil firmly around the cutting.

Rooting hormone or cloning gel is not needed with zonal geraniums. They do just fine without.

Keep your Cuttings moist

Cover your tray with a clear lid, these planting trays with dome lids are great but I also use a glass fish tank.

Check out how I do that here in this post…Propagating Lilacs

Keep your cuttings at a moderate temperature and in bright light. I have mine in my greenhouse but you can put them under lights in the house as well.

(update) Some say that putting them under a dome or cover will encourage fungus. I had my first experience just recently with that.

These dome lids (in the photo) have good venting so I have not usually had trouble. The last batch of cuttings I just tried I put in a less ventilated box and they did get fungus and shriveled up.

So be very careful, you can just set them out with no top and keep them misted from time to time during the day.

Rooting Success

My geraniums were well rooted in 4 weeks…

Potting up your Rooted Geranium Cuttings

Carefully pop these out of the small pots and pot them up into larger pots using a good potting medium. As they get larger harden them off and get them used to outdoor conditions.

You can do this by setting them outside in larger intervals of time over a two week period. They should be in a sheltered spot with morning sun, afternoon shade or in light shade.

For an easy link to supplies you may need in my Amazon Shop

More gardening tips and tricks

Rooting Lilacs from Cuttings
Divide your Iris in Spring
Easy DIY Arbor

Overwinter Your Zonal Geraniums

Happy Gardening!


The process for over propagating geranium cuttings is the same for many other plants as well.

This method is also called cloning because we are continuing the growth of an existing plant to start a new one (with the same genetics).

How to Take Softwood Cuttings includes an illustrated guide in case you need more details.

1 Get Your Supplies Ready

  • Clean, small flower pots with drainage holes
  • Potting mix
  • Drip tray
  • Scalpel or very fine, sharp knife
  • Rubbing alcohol
  • Large, clear food bags
  • Have small pots filled with moist container mix ready on drip trays.
  • Clean your scalpel or cutting knife blades with rubbing alcohol.

2 Take Cuttings

  • You want to end up with a stem that is approximately 4 to 6 inches long with two healthy leaves up top.
  • Choose a new stem that is green (not old and woody).
  • Cut just below a leaf node with a clean, sharp scalpel or very fine knife.

3 Prepare for Planting

  • Remove any flower stems, flowers, or buds. You don’t want the plant putting energy into those just now.
  • Remove any leaves from the bottom 2″.
  • Keep the remaining leaves attached.
  • Dip the base in rooting hormone powder. (optional- some cuttings will root fine without it)
  • Tap off any excess powder.

New to this? Get all the basics on using rooting hormones here.

4 Planting

  • Use your finger or a dibber to make a hole in the container mix and insert the geranium stem.
  • Careful not to push the rooting hormone powder away.
  • Loosely fill hole with container mix around the stem.
  • Bury the stem deep enough that any bare leaf nodes (where you removed leaves) are submerged.

You can put several cuttings in one pot. Place one along each inner side.

  • You can either water the pots and/or fill the drip tray and empty it after 30 minutes.

5 Cover (Optional)

  • If your growing space had good humidity (over 50%) and there is not risk of the cutting drying out, you should not need to cover it.
    If you keep them out in the open, mist them as needed to maintain good moisture levels (not too dry, not too damp).
  • Alternately, in a drier environment, you can loosely sit a large, clear bag over top or a dome, so long as there is still air circulation.
    Check daily to be sure the cover is not building up too much condensation or mold or fungus on the soil.

6 Location

  • Keep in warm location. Avoid full sun until roots have formed (it usually takes a few weeks).
  • Keep container mix moist but not soaking wet.

7 Growth

  • In 6-8 weeks, you should notice roots forming. It can be as quick as 4 weeks.
  • Geraniums grow long roots so you may see some at the holes in the bottom of the pot.
  • You can also check by lightly pulling on the stem to feel if roots are holding it in place.

8 Repot

  • With roots well established, you can now repot each cutting into its own pot.

9 Where to Grow

  • During winter, you can grow them as houseplants.
  • In spring, after last frost, they can be gradually introduced to life outdoors.
    This shows How to Harden Off Plants for Life Outdoors.

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