How to rebloom amaryllis?

How To Make Your Holiday Amaryllis Bloom Again

One of the most popular gift items during the November and December holidays is an Amaryllis, those beautiful 6 to 10-inch flowers that grow on 1-2 foot stalks (called scapes). A question I hear quite often is, Can I save my Amaryllis and get it to bloom again? Why, yes you can.

My Christmas Amaryllis blooms against a window in winter.

You may be most familiar with red or white Amaryllis flowers but they also appear in pink, salmon, apricot, bicolor or picotee (petals with a different color at the edge). Plants may already be in bloom or available as a bulb, and when selecting the latter, choose the biggest bulb possible, as the largest bulbs will produce more stalks and blooms the first year.

When caring for any plant, I find that it’s always helpful to know its origin, because this can inform us of how best to treat the plant year-round. Here is an excellent description of Amaryllis from the United States National Arboretum:

Amaryllis are bulbs of the genus Hippeastrum that are native to tropical and subtropical areas of the Americas. Some species grow in rock crevices in savannas that have distinct dry and wet seasons; others grow in high plateau regions that have cool weather for most of the year. One species from Brazil is epiphytic and grows in trees in montane forests with no soil around the roots. Many species have been hybridized to produce today’s hybrids, and most of these species experience warm, humid conditions with abundant rainfall for most of the year and a short, cooler dry season. To make your amaryllis bloom again, you simply have to mimic the conditions that nature provides.United States National Arboretum

How to care for your Amaryllis

An Amaryllis craves sunlight year-round and never likes wet feet, so place your plant near a sunny window and keep the soil on the dry side. Do your best to not get the top of the bulb wet when you water, as that can quickly introduce disease into the plant or cause the bulb to rot. As soon as the plant begins to flower, move the amaryllis out of direct sunlight (away from the window). This will preserve the bloom as long as possible.

Amaryllis flowers should last for several weeks before fading. After blooming, expose the foliage to as much sun as possible, because unlike other flower bulbs you may be used to, Amaryllis is capable of producing bloom after bloom with no dormancy period, unless forced. Keep the soil damp but not wet and move the pot to a warm room with a sunny window – if you have a solarium or greenhouse, all the better. Use an organic liquid feed monthly.

If you live in an area with no perceivable winter or winters which don’t go below 10 degrees (Zones 8-10), you can plant your Amaryllis bulb directly in the ground and watch it bloom and rebloom continuously. For the rest of us, the plant will need to stay indoors late fall through early spring.

Buy Amaryllis Bulbs on Amazon

How to repot your Amaryllis

The best time to repot your Amaryllis is immediately after blooming. This plant loves a tight space, so choose a container which is only about one inch larger than the actual bulb. Fill your container halfway with potting soil that drains quickly and is high in organic matter, then set your bulb on top of the soil. Add more potting soil until it reaches the widest part of the bulb, but no further. Do not bury an Amaryllis bulb up to or over its neck as you would other bulbs, as this will allow water to enter the bulb, causing it to rot or become diseased.

When you repot an Amaryllis bulb, you may notice smaller side bulbs. These can be separated from the main bulb and potted to produce additional plants, but will need about 2-3 years of growth before blooming (it takes a ton of energy to produce a flower that big from a bulb). Water your amaryllis thoroughly after you re-pot it, but not again until the surface is slightly dry to the touch.

When all danger of frost has passed, acclimate your Amaryllis to the outdoors with a slow introduction (this is called hardening off). On warm days in spring, place it on a shady porch first (or some other kind of protection from direct sunlight), bringing it indoors on nights which are cold. After a few days of hardening off, gradually introduce the plant to direct sunlight for a few hours at a time – 1 hour the first day, 2 hours the next, etc. Only when the nights are no colder than 50 degrees, should the plant remain outdoors in a spot where it receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. Don’t be alarmed if some of the foliage withers and dies during this readjustment. Exposure to wind, sun and rain is stressful on the plant, but it will replace any foliage that dies. Fertilize with an organic fertilizer every 2 weeks.

Amaryllis plants love being pot-bound and will deliver showy flowers to prove it. They only require repotting every 3 or 4 years, which should be done after allowing the plant to go dormant as described above.

How to rebloom your Amaryllis

The secret to get this beautiful plant to rebloom year after year is to never stop growing it. As soon as the flowers have faded each year, cut them off to prevent seeds from forming – this will save the plant’s energy. Leave about 4 inches of the stalk, as it helps to produce food after blooming. When the stalk begins to turn brown, snip this off as well, but always leave the foliage intact – it will brown and wither naturally, and generate new foliage. Keep the bulb exposed to bright sunlight and water regularly as the top becomes dry to the touch. Be sure the water drains freely from the pot, as Amaryllis hates wet feet.

How to time your Amaryllis bloom for Christmas and the holidays

If you want your Amaryllis to definitely bloom during the holidays, force the plant into dormancy in August. To force dormancy, keep the foliage on the plant and place the container in a cool (not below freezing) room like a closet, basement or garage and do not water. When the foliage has become dry and brown, remove it. After 8-12 weeks, you should see a small green shoot emerge from the center of the bulb – this is the time to bring the bulb back out into your brightest and warmest room (70-80 degrees). Water the soil thoroughly. Flowers and foliage will start to develop after 3-4 weeks (interesting note – the flower will continue to form even if the foliage doesn’t). You can repot the bulb in fresh soil at this point.

Garden Answer has done a nice video on how to plant your Amaryllis.

How to Regrow Your Bloomaker Amaryllis Bulbs

One of our most frequently asked questions is how-to regrow Bloomaker bulbs, specifically Amaryllis bulbs, once they’ve stopped growing in your Bloomaker vase.

When first growing your Amaryllis bulbs make sure that there is always a little bit of water just underneath the bottom of the Giant Amarylis. This will enhance the growth of the stem and flowers. Place your vase in a sunny place where the sun can shine abundantly. The Amaryllis is a tropical plant and grows best in warm temperatures. 75º Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature for them. Within 2 weeks you should see the first flowers blooming.

While your Amaryllis plant is growing, you can support the stems if they begin to get longer than 15” otherwise the stems may break and ruin your beautiful flower.

3 months after purchasing you will likely stop seeing blooms. This is when you can begin following steps for regrowing your bulbs for the next season! The steps for regrowing your bulbs always depend on your environment and climate zones as well as the condition of your bulb. You can find your climate zone here.

In climate zones 3 through 6:

  1. Cut the leaves off the plant until you reach the upper part of the bulb (this is called the neck of the bulb).

  2. Replant the bulb in a large pot with moist soil.

  3. Keep it far away from frost (remember, this is a tropical plant) and put it away for storage in your garage or a colder area in your house.

  4. When spring begins and outside frost is no longer expect, place the pot outside and keep the soil moist at all times.

  5. Bring the pot inside at the end of August.

  6. Cut the leaves until you reach the neck of the bulb.

  7. Store it in a colder area of the house (i.e. garage/basement).

  8. You can bring the pot in the house beginning November and around Christmas, you should have flowers again!

  9. Repeat all steps again for the next year.

In climate zones 7 and 8:

  1. Cut the leaves off the plant until you reach the upper part of the bulb (this is called the neck of the bulb).

  2. Store the Amaryllis at a colder place in your house (i.e. garage/basement) while keeping it far away from frost (remember, this is a tropical plant).

  3. When spring begins and frost is no longer expected outside, replant the Amaryllis bulb in your garden outside in a sunny place.

  4. Keep the soil moist at all times.

  5. Let the Amaryllis grow and when fall begins you should cut the leaves and cover the amaryllis bulbs to protect it from frost.

  6. Early spring take off the cover over the bulb and let the bulb begin regrowing.

  7. Your Amaryllis should start flowering in early May.

In climate zones 9 through 11:

  • Cut leaves off the plant until you reach the upper part of the bulb (this is called the neck of the bulb).

  • Replant the bulb in your garden in a sunny place and be sure to keep the soil moist at all times.

  • Once a year, flowers should re-bloom. This will most likely occur after a colder period of weather.

If you have other questions about regrowing particular Bloomaker bulbs check out our FAQ page.

How to Regrow an Amaryllis Plant

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An amaryllis plant is often tossed after it flowers, and another bulb is purchased in the fall or early winter to replace it. Your bulb will regrow and rebloom, however, with continued care after it blooms. Just expose it to cold temperatures for about two months in the fall, then replant and care for it just like a new bulb. In another six to eight weeks, it will most likely bloom again for you to add color and beauty to your home for the winter.

Cut off the flower stalks when they are finished blooming. Also cut off the foliage about 2 inches above the bulb, using sharp hand clippers or pruning shears. Keep the plant near a sunny area of the home, such on the southern side by a window.

Fertilize every two to four weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer. Iowa State University recommends a general houseplant fertilizer. Follow the application rates on the label, as the amount may vary.

Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. You’ll probably need to water about once a week. Water slowly and with enough water so a bit seeps out the drainage hole.

Remove the pot from its sunny location in late September and set in a cooler, slightly darker location. Good locations are your garage or a spare, unheated room. Stop watering and fertilizing, then wait for the foliage to turn brown.

Cut off the foliage after it turns brown and move it to a dark location that is 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. An attic, basement, crawl space or garage may be a good location for you. Leave the amaryllis there for eight to 10 weeks because this period of cold dormancy is required for blooming again.

Replant the bulb in new potting soil and water again. The top half of the bulb should sit above the soil line.

Set the pot in an area between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight. Keep the soil slightly moist. When you see new growth, move it to a sunny spot and start to water and fertilize it again as you did before. It should bloom in six to eight weeks.

How to bring amaryllis back from the dead

These days, smart winter decorating schemes practically require amaryllis, with their great big trumpetty blooms in totally untasteful lipstick red. But while their impact is undeniable, what do you do with those pesky indoor-flowering bulbs once they’ve finished blooming? They work so hard during flowering season that it seems churlish to just chuck them; but getting them to rebloom the following year is a complicated business. Isn’t it?

Not so. For a start, many amaryllis bulbs these days are sold in such a large size that they have plenty of energy left in them for next year’s show. Throwing them away is a pointless waste – especially when really large new bulbs can cost up to £15. And even smaller amaryllis can be persuaded into a repeat showing with a bit of patience and consistency.

They do need the right routine over the intervening months, though. This time last year I had a nice lady from De Jager bulbs on the phone, who explained to me that the secret is letting them fatten up properly over the summer, then giving them a proper break in late autumn.

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First, they should have a nice spring and summer, either sitting on a sunny indoor windowsill, well-watered and fed, or out in the garden. A word of warning on the latter option, though: slugs and snails can munch their way through the tender leaves in just a few nights. After having several of mine stripped completely, I gave in and brought them indoors, where they spent the summer making strappy green leaves and being fed with foliar feed (it comes in a spray that goes straight on the leaf surface) as well as having weekly watering.

By the time autumn came around, each bulb had put on an impressive number of oniony layers. One old house-plant book I found suggested that for every three to four leaves the plant grows during summer, one flower will be produced, so it’s worth feeding them up and encouraging them to produce as many leaves as possible over the summer season.

Now comes the technical bit: you need to manipulate the bulb into thinking it’s time to flower again, and for that it needs a short dry season. So in autumn, stop watering until the leaves shrivel up and go yellow (it feels counter-intuitive when you’ve cosseted the plant all summer, but it works). Leave the bulb dry for about eight weeks, then around November you can begin again, bringing the bulb somewhere warmer and starting to water again. A good amount of wintry sunshine should produce those great big fat flower buds once more, just in time for Christmas 2010.

It’s come up nice again!


Cyclamen are some of the most rewarding of winter flowers. The large-flowered varieties are likely to be frost- tender, but the tiny ruby- and white-flowered species can be tucked into a corner of a flowerbed, to delight you with flowers when winter next comes around

Paperwhite narcissi

Best appreciated the year you grow them first, as they end up almost exhausted. Try planting them in an ignorable sunny corner of the garden, where they may end up producing new blooms at some future point. But do it with low expectations…

Moth orchids

Keep them away from cold windows and radiators, and when a flower spike has finished, cut back to the third node on the stem. Often this will encourage a second flush

Reblooming Amaryllis Flowers – Care To Get An Amaryllis To Bloom Again

Very few flowers can match the majestic presence of the amaryllis in bloom. The trick, however, is how to make an amaryllis flower rebloom. While many people discard the plant after its initial bloom, with a little know how and the right care, you can enjoy a reblooming amaryllis year after year. Let’s look at how to make an amaryllis flower rebloom.

Reblooming Amaryllis Flowers

How do I get an amaryllis flower to rebloom? Amaryllis plants in nature live in a habitat that alternates between ninr months of moist wet weather, and a three-month dry season. The trick to make an amaryllis flower rebloom is to mimic the natural cycles of its habitat. When the last flower fades, take care and cut the stalk near the top of the bulb. Make sure you leave the foliage on the bulb and try not to damage them while cutting the flower stalks.

Care to Get an Amaryllis to Bloom Again

Once the flowers are gone, the amaryllis goes into a growth phase, where it begins to store energy for next year’s bloom. While it can be difficult to give the plant enough sunlight in the winter months, move it to the sunniest location you can, or get a good plant light. Give the plant plenty of water and fertilizer during this time. Ensuring that there is enough sunlight, water, and fertilizer during this period is key to make an amaryllis flower rebloom.

As soon as the last frost of the year is finished, move the plant outside to a sunny location and water daily. Although some of the leaves may die in this transition, don’t worry, new ones will regrow.

Since, most people want to make their amaryllis bloom during the holidays, typically you should bring the plant back indoors by the middle of August. Once you bring the plant inside, put it in a cool location (50-60 F. or 10-16 C.) and stop watering the amaryllis. Once the leaves die, move it to a dark spot for its rest period. If you like, you can remove the bulb from the soil before you store it for it’s resting period.

Watch your bulb, and when you see the tip of the new flower stalk, it’s time to prepare for the reblooming amaryllis. Move the bulb to a warmer location for three weeks. This encourages the leaves and stalk to develop simultaneously. Repot the bulb in fresh soil (but not too deep) and place it in a sunny location.

This process can be repeated every year and, if done correctly, you can make an amaryllis flower rebloom again and again!

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