- How Do I Propagate a Philodendron?
- Pruning Philodendron Plant Is Easy
- Does your philodendron needs pruning?
- Pruning philodendron plant
- Can You Cut Back Philodendrons: Tips On Pruning A Philodendron Plant
- Pruning Philodendron Plants
- How to Trim Philodendrons
- How to add years to old houseplant’s life | The Sacramento Bee
- 1. Ensure the Correct Environment
- 2. Properly Pot your Plant
- 3. Maintaining your Plant
- 4. Don’t Mind the Gaps
How Do I Propagate a Philodendron?
Rooting a philodendron (Philodendron) is easy. All you need is a pair of scissors and a small container of potting soil. To make a cutting, use a sharp knife or shears to cut a piece of stem about 3-6 inches long. It’s best to make your cut just above another leaf on the same stem.Remove all of the leaves from the cutting except the top two or three. Place the cutting in moist vermiculite or potting soil. None of the leaves should be buried in the rooting medium. If they are, perch the cutting a little higher or remove another leaf — just be sure that two or three leaves remain. Put your container in bright, indirect sunlight. I usually set mine along a windowsill or on a table near a window.
In two or three weeks, roots will sprout, followed by new leaves. Gently tug on the cutting. If you feel resistance you’ll know that roots have formed. Insert the cutting in good-quality potting soil in a pot that’s 3-4 inches wide. If your mother plant is large enough, take three to five cuttings at one time and let all of them root in the same jar. Then when you plant them, you’ll have a pot that’s full and lush.
Hey, guys, it’s Katie here! Since most of us are pretty obsessed with filling our homes with plants, I thought it’s high time we talk about propagation! There are lots of different ways you can propagate plants, but I’m super into water propagation right now. Why? Well, because it’s SO easy and you get to watch the roots develop. This way you know the perfect time to get that baby in some soil! Here are three very common houseplants that love the water!
1. Pothos and Philodendron
If you have plants around your home, chances are that you have pothos and/or philodendron. These plants are not only easy to care for, but they are the plant that keeps on giving. Simply cut a 4-6 inch length from one of your vines, let dry out for a couple of hours, and place the end in water. Four or more leaves per cutting is recommended, but I have grown them with fewer in the past. Just make sure your vine has a couple of nodes, or bumpy spots. Once your pothos or philodendron has produced a new root, pull it from the glass or jar and transplant it to soil. The longer you keep the roots in water, the more difficult time it has acclimating to soil. The beauty of these particular plants is that you can skip the soil entirely and simply leave them in water. I love to watch the root systems grow and grow!
Sharing is caring and this plant makes it so easy to spread the love to friends and neighbors! Pothos and philodendron are also great plants for cleaning indoor air! Just remember, both plants can be toxic to children and pets, so if you’re going to keep them in the home, be sure to place them far out of reach!
2. Holiday Cactus (Easter, Thanksgiving, and Christmas)
I discovered my love for holiday cacti during a plant swap I hosted a few months back. I’m especially fond of the texture of this plant, so you can imagine how delighted I was to find out you can propagate it in water! Considering many types of cacti prefer their soil to be on the dry side, my first question was, “Should I actually pop my cactus clippings in water to encourage new root growth?” Answer: YES! Cut sections with three or more attached leaf groupings and let them callous over for a few hours. After that, simply place them in a glass of water and wait patiently. After a few weeks, you’ll have new baby plants with roots to transfer to soil!
My favorite thing about holiday cacti is how quickly they produce! Once my new rooted clippings were in the soil, they have grown at a rapid rate! Since this type of cactus is native to the jungle, they do require more water than a desert cactus. As always, avoid over-watering to prevent root rot. Oh, and this particular kind of cactus is not toxic to children or pets! Yay!
3. ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas Zamifolia)
Ahhhh, the ZZ plant. The waxy sheen of this plant’s leaves is one of my very favorites! I’m guessing many of you have one or more of these in your home. The ZZ plant is great because it is hearty and flourishes in many different types of light. Water propagation for this beauty is essentially the same as the two listed above. Use a sharp knife to remove a section from your existing plant, let it callous over for a few hours, and pop it in water.
My ZZ plant took the longest of the three to produce roots, but as you can see above, the roots that sprouted ended up being very thick and substantial. After the roots appeared, I put this plant straight into a pot and it’s been doing great ever since! Like pothos and philodendron, ZZ plants are toxic for children and pets, so please be extra careful if you have these in your home!
There are many other plants that root easily in water, but these are just a few of the most common (and some of my favorite!) household plants. Are you interested in trying this easy method? I’d love to see any success stories if you want to tag any of your photos with #ABMplantlady over on Instagram! Happy houseplant propagating, friends! xo. Katie
Credits // Author: Katie Shelton. Photography: Katie Shelton and Janae Hardy. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop.
Your plant is a split leaf philodendron; these plants tend to take up a great deal of room as they mature and need constant pruning to keep them manageable. If you move it to a larger pot it will just keep growing and taking up even more room, so I don’t think that’s a very good option. You can carefully separate the root ball into two sections. Plant each section in a pot a few inches larger than the root ball.
These plants like to be pruned aggressively. You can cut off some stems from the existing plant and use them to start new plants. Use a sharp, clean scissors or razor blade to cut off some healthy stem just below a leaf node. A node is where a leaf joins the stem. Remove leaves from the bottom 1/3 of the stems. Dip the cut end of the stems into a small amount of rooting hormone that contains a fungicide. Plant the stem in a 6″pot (drip holes in the bottom) of moist potting soil. The original plant will look and grow better once pruned.
You can read all my care tips for a Split Leaf Philodendron in the Popular Houseplant section of the website.
These plants are poisonous and should be kept away from pets and children. Always wear gloves when pruning and wash your hands and tools well when finished. Read more about common houseplants that are poisonous in Don’t Feed Me To Your Cat! A Guide to Poisonous Houseplants
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Pruning Philodendron Plant Is Easy
Does your philodendron needs pruning?
Philodendron plants are easy to care for and grow quickly; hence you might need to prune them periodically to fit your space.Besides that Pruning philodendron keeps these beauties looking their tropical best and keeps them from becoming too large for their surroundings.
these plants don’t require pruning to grow, however taller plants tend to look spindly and awkward if not prune occasionally
If you aren’t sure your plant needs pruning, wait. Pruning a philodendron shouldn’t be done if it isn’t really necessary. Pruning philodendron plants is beneficial if the plant is taking up too much space in the room, or the plant looks long and leggy.
Pruning philodendron is best done in spring or fall. You can safely give your philodendron a light trim any time of year to remove yellowing leaves and trim spindly growth.
Bear in mind, before pruning philodendron plants, you must sterilize your pruning tools. To sterile pruning tools, remove any mud or debris, then wipe tools with regular rubbing alcohol
Sterilize your pruning tools helps prevent spread of disease-causing bacteria that may affect the health of your philodendron
where to buy pruning shears?you can buy pruning shears at amazon for only $18.95
Pruning philodendron plant
To contain the philodendron plant to a size that fits the dimensions of your room
- Cut off the longest stems, which are the oldest and most likely to turn yellow. Besides that they are also the most unsightly, looking spindly with long, narrow stems weighted down by large and heavy leaves.
- Cut at the joints where they meet the main crown of the plant.
- If the stems descend below the soil, cut them at the soil line.
- Water the plant immediately after pruning
Cut away leaves and stems that are yellow from damage or age.
- First Grasp the yellow stem firmly and pull it slightly away from the plant.
- Then Cut the stem at its base, where it connects to the plant’s trunk or another stem.
- If only one leaf on a stem is yellow, cut it off just above the joint where a healthy leaf attaches to the plant.
- Water the plant immediately after pruning to reduce any stress to the plant
Prune philodendron for propagating
- Choose a long, healthy stem with at least three large leaves.
- Cut the stems directly above a healthy leaf
- If possible cut them at the joint that meets the main crown.
- The propagating stem should be between 3 and 6 inches long.
- Water the main plant.
- Place the cut stem in potting soil at least 8 inches deep and water until the soil is moist but not wet.
- Keep the soil moist then place the pot in bright sunlight and roots should form in about two weeks.
Additional tip:When pruning a young philodendron plant, leave at least three leaves on the plant to allow it to absorb nutrients from the sun
SummaryArticle Name Pruning Philodendron Plant Is Easy Description Pruning philodendron plants is beneficial if the plant is taking up too much space in the room, or the plant looks long and leggy. Author Philodendron Lover Publisher Name philodendron plant Publisher Logo
Can You Cut Back Philodendrons: Tips On Pruning A Philodendron Plant
Can you cut back philodendrons? Yes, you sure can. Although they don’t require a lot of pruning, occasionally cutting back philodendron plants keeps these beauties looking their tropical best and keeps them from becoming too large for their surroundings. Here are a few general guidelines for cutting back philodendron plants.
Pruning Philodendron Plants
One rule of thumb: If you aren’t sure your plant needs pruning, wait. Pruning a philodendron shouldn’t be done if it isn’t really necessary, and a good pruning job should never detract from the overall appearance of the plant. In other words, your work really shouldn’t be noticeable.
Cutting back philodendron plants is beneficial if the plant is taking up too much space in the room, or if the plant looks long and leggy. This type of pruning is best done in spring or fall. You can safely give your philodendron a light trim any time of year to remove yellowing leaves and trim spindly growth.
Before pruning philodendron plants, you’ll want to sterilize pruning tools. This simple but all-important step takes seconds and helps prevent spread of disease-causing bacteria that may affect the health of your philodendron.
To sterile pruning tools, remove any mud or debris, then simply give the tools a quick dip in a solution of nine parts household bleach to one part water. Bleach can be corrosive, so rinse tools in clear water after they’re sterilized. Alternatively, wipe tools with regular rubbing alcohol, which is effective and not as corrosive as bleach.
How to Trim Philodendrons
Cut off the longest, oldest stems, or any stems that are leggy or have a lot of yellowing or dead leaves. In some cases, very old stems may be completely leafless.
Make cuts using a sharp, sterile knife, scissors or pruning shears, cutting where the stem meets the main part of the plant. If you can’t see where the base of the stem connects, cut the stem at soil level.
If your philodendron is the vining type, use pruning shears or simply pinch the tips of vines. This quickie type of pruning will neaten up the plant and encourage bushier, healthier growth. Always cut or pinch growth just above a leaf node, which is the point on a stem where a new leaf or stem grows. Otherwise, you’ll be left with a lot of unsightly stubs.
I don’t know how big your plant is, but Philodendron Selloums can be pruned aggressively and will grow back larger and better looking than before. You can cut off any leaves at the base of their stems to shape the plant however you wish. You can even cut off the entire plant several inches above the soil line, but be sure to leave at least two or three leaves on the plant so it can manufacture food.
When you trim a Philodendron Selloum be sure to use very sharp pruners or scissors. Always wear gloves when pruning a Philodendron Selloum and wash your hands and tools very well when finished. All Philodendrons are very poisonous and you don’t want to get the sap in your eyes or mouth.
As long as the roots are healthy and strong, a Philodendron Selloum will come back more beautiful than ever no matter how much you trim it.
Another option is that you can wrap the plant tightly in a sheet to hold the leaves close to the stem. This will make the plant a lot narrower. If it is too tall, cut off the top part of the stem so it will fit into your car. Some moving companies takes plants on their trucks so you might want to talk to them about this option.
Good luck on you move!
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How to add years to old houseplant’s life | The Sacramento Bee
Garden Detective: What’s wrong with this philodendron? It could use some pruning to prompt new growth. Anita Cecil
Experts tackle readers’ garden questions.
Q: My giant philodendron used to be full and vigorous, but has become leggy and the new leaves are very small. It is about 35 years old and has been cut back to nothing several times in its lifetime because of freezing! I recently transferred it to a larger pot, but I’m sure the roots are totally root bound. (Although I remember reading somewhere that they like to be root bound.) The branches are very thick and heavy and have a tendency to fall over. I notice that it’s leaning to one side, although I turn it toward the window light often, trying to keep it even. I think the heaviness is causing it to lean. It’s been indoors and outdoors over the past many years. I’ve left it on my deck for the last several years and covered it when frost was forecast. Before that, it was in the house for several years. I have a feeling I should cut it back to nothing again and let it start over, but I really hate to wait a year or two for it to recover. Do you have any other suggestions, or should I just bite the bullet and cut it back?
Anita Cecil, Grass Valley
Sacramento County Master Gardener Cathryn Rakich: Split-leaf philodendrons (Monstera deliciosa) can become spindly and awkward, and weighed down by large leaves, if they are not occasionally trimmed. So, feel free to cut back your philodendron when its branches are looking long and leggy. This will encourage new shoots to form where stems were cut.
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First, sterilize your pruning tool (sharp knife, scissors or pruning shears) to prevent the spread of disease-causing bacteria. You can either dip the tool in a solution of nine parts household bleach to one part water or wipe the tool with regular rubbing alcohol.
Next, cut off the longest stems (which are the oldest), as well as stems that are leggy and have a lot of yellow or dead leaves. Cut the stems at their base, where they connect to the plant. Water the plant immediately to reduce stress from the pruning.
If you want to propagate one of the cut stems, choose a stem between three and six inches long with at least three large leaves. Place the cut stem in potting soil at least eight inches deep. Keep the soil moist and place the pot in bright sunlight. Roots should form in approximately two weeks.
Split-leaf philodendrons should be repotted every few years to ensure space for the roots of this fast-growing plant. In addition, plants can accumulate salt deposits from watering, which will lead to brown- and yellow-edged leaves, so fresh potting soil is important.
Cathryn Rakich is a UC Cooperative Extension master gardener for Sacramento County.
Questions are answered by master gardeners at the UC Cooperative Extension services in Sacramento and Placer counties. Send questions to Garden Detective, P.O. Box 15779, Sacramento, CA 95852. Send email to h&[email protected] Please put “Garden Detective” in the subject field and include your postal address. To contact UC Extension directly, call:
By Lisa Stout
Bring a taste of the tropics into your home with a beautiful Monstera deliciosa plant. This plant is easily recognized by its heart-shaped green leaves which are marked by large oblong holes or slits. Native to the rainforests of Mexico and Central America, Monstera is a gorgeous and relatively easy plant to maintain. Check out these tips to learn how.
1. Ensure the Correct Environment
Monstera deliciosa is a flowering and fruit-bearing plant that’s native to the tropical rainforests of Central America. The “deliciosa” part of its scientific name refers to its edible fruit, while you can probably guess what “monstera” means. That’s right. This plant can grow to over 30 feet tall! But it probably won’t grow nearly that much if you keep it indoors. It can still get plenty big, however, so keep that in mind if you’re planning on getting a Monstera for a houseplant. The Monstera’s tendency to live large can be maintained by regular pruning (more on that later).
The Monstera prefers high humidity and temperatures between 68 and 86⁰ F. If the humidity level in your home is too low, you may notice the edges of its leaves turning brown. When the temperature within the home is outside of the preferable range, you may notice stunted growth, or the plant might even die.
Keep your Monstera out of direct sunlight, which can scorch or sunburn its leaves. Monstera is best kept in a bright room with indirect filtered light. This will ensure that the plant gets enough sunlight to produce the energy it needs to survive.
2. Properly Pot your Plant
Pot your Monstera in loose peaty soil to ensure proper drainage and aeration of the roots. In addition, the pot should have drainage holes at the bottom. Improper drainage can cause root rot. Water your Monstera at least every week, or when the top layer of soil is completely dry.
Maturing plants will need to be trained to stand upright. The weak stem of its vine isn’t enough to support the weight of the leaves. In the wild, the support comes naturally by the Monstera vine attaching itself to larger plants. At home, you can use a trellis, moss pole, or even a wooden stake.
Re-pot the plant every year or two to ensure there’s enough nutrient rich soil for your plant to thrive. Going up to a larger container will prevent the plant from getting root bound, but keep in mind that the plant will grow to fit its new roomier home.
3. Maintaining your Plant
As I mentioned earlier, the Monstera can grow quite large. Keep the size of your plant within desired limits by regularly pruning it. Pruning is also necessary to remove any dying leaves. Follow these tips for pruning your Monstera:
– Wear a pair of gloves before getting started. The chemicals within the plant are toxic and can cause skin irritation.
– First, remove any dead or dying leaves by hand.
– Next, grab your pruning shears and begin pruning the desired areas of healthy growth to maintain size and shape of the plant. Using the shears, cut into the vine at the desired location. Please keep in mind that wherever the vine is cut will incite new growth. Pruning at the base (near the soil) of the plant will ensure that new growth will be near the bottom of the plant rather than growing outwards from a vine stem.
– Don’t forget to throw your trimmings in a garbage bag. If these are thrown into the yard, you may find yourself with some new Monstera plants growing on your landscape!
4. Don’t Mind the Gaps
As the plant grows and new leaves sprout, you’ll notice they’re full leaves — free of holes or slits. Eventually, holes will begin forming in various patterns on the new growth. Don’t be alarmed. This is a completely normal occurrence, and part of what makes the Monstera plant so interesting. It’s thought that in the Monstera’s natural habitat, these holes and slits help the plant to withstand torrential downpours. As the leaf matures, the holes will stop growing, leaving a distinct final pattern. Because of these formations, the Monstera plant is commonly known as the Swiss cheese plant.
Other common names for the Monstera are split Leaf Philodendron, fruit salad plant, fruit salad tree (in reference to its edible fruit), ceriman, monster fruit, monsterio delicio, monstereo, Mexican breadfruit, locust and wild honey, windowleaf, balazo, and Penglai banana.
Now that you’ve got the facts down, you’re ready to pick up a Monstera plant for yourself. They can usually be found at home improvement stores and sometimes even big box stores. With the right environment and care, your Monstera plant will live for many years to come.
Images used with permission, courtesy of Tigerente, www.dreamstime.com, and .com