How to prune peppers

1. Prune the lower branches

The plant expends enormous amounts of energy to maintain all the branches that it has, many of which produce very little, and ultimately end up drying out. These types of branches, normally found at the bottom of the plant, get almost no light and even if they do end up producing buds, these will be very paltry, undeveloped ones, not good for anything. Likewise, these branches usually tend to have a very large internodal spacing, as they desperately struggle out in search of light. As planners, it is our duty to get rid of these branches, thus sparing the plant futile investments in energy so it can concentrate on the upper ones. The best way is to wait until the plant grows to a height of about 60 cm before clearing out all the feeble and useless branches located at its base, and to do so in a very progressive manner, over its entire growing cycle. Do not prune before this. Wait until it acquires this height to avoid causing the plant some trauma when it is still too young and delicate to take it.

2. Be precise and careful

Pay special attention to making precise cuts when you prune any part of the plant, especially the branches. Make sure that the edges and blades of the scissors are sharp and are not damaged. Under no circumstances should you tear out branches with your hands. Give the plant a little bit of rum before pruning, for the pain. As with any other living being, these amputations are very traumatic, so they should be carried out with care.

3. Should you cut off leaves?

There is a difference of opinion on this one. Some people hold that defoliation spawns better crops. But one must keep in mind that the largest leaves function like solar panels, not only absorbing the sun’s energy for photosynthesis, but also storing it to use it later on. If we strip the plant of its leaves we are, therefore, inflicting a two-fold kind of damage upon it. This does not seem very sensible.

4. Cutting off the tip

Once again, we must play our role as planners, reading the surroundings, conditions, and the plant’s development. Cutting the highest tip (Top Cola) of the plant will boost the development of its lateral branches. In fact, the Top Cola contains a chemical element that hampers the growth of the other branches. When it is cut, the plant will distribute all that energy to the rest. Pruning the tip is very advisable in outside growing if you don’t want your plant to grow way too high. Indoors, as the space one has is limited, the same holds true. Especially if you want to grow in SCROG. Indoors, never shift the photoperiod to blooming after cutting the Top Cola off your plant. Let it recover from the trauma and develop itself, so that it may soon concentrate all its energy on flowering rather than on defending itself. In another post, we will talk about cutting off the tip and the methods to do so.

5. NEVER PRUNE during flowering

Plants generate a hormonal response when they are wounded, and pruning cuts are wounds. This includes a growth inhibitor called jasmonic acid that causes the plant to prioritize defence over development. In extreme cases, it can paralyze the plant’s growth, or even the production of flowers. This hormone also takes part in the formation of trichomes. This is where the theory about stressing the plant a little in order to enhance the potency of the buds comes from. But there’s a difference between stress and torture. Refrain from pruning during flowering.


With information from Icmag and theweedblog

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Pruning for Bigger Yields

Why Prune Your Plants?

Pruning your plants provides a number of benefits.

Plants have a limited amount of energy. Therefore, excessive stem and leaf growth can take energy away from flowers, buds, and fruit. By pruning away some of this green tissue, plants can send more energy to the production of the fruiting portions of plants.

As more energy is sent the flowers, fruits, and buds, their growth increases. Therefore, this process is known as pruning for bigger yields.

Another benefit of pruning is increased plant health. By removing dead and diseased tissue, growers stop the spread of disease.

Selective pruning also increases the amount of air and light that reaches the plant. This helps protect against pathogens which thrive in damp, wet conditions. Some of these pathogens include powdery mildew and tobacco mosaic virus.

When you understand how to prune your plants properly you will improve their health and increase their overall yield.

However, improper pruning can damage and even kill plants. Therefore, make sure to take the time to learn how to correctly prune.

Deciding When to Prune

To decide when to prune, you need to consider factors including plant species, the plant’s age, and the type of pruning.

A good way to determine when to start pruning plants is by looking at the nodes and internodes. Nodes are sections of the plant where new stems are growing out from the main stem. Internodes are the sections of main stem between two nodes.

Once plants have four to eight nodes, you can begin prunning. At this point, plants will be large enough to survive a pruning effort. You’ll also be able to see the shape the plant is taking on.

Most of your pruning should happen during the vegetative state, but you can also prune during the following stage. However, you never want to prune more than two weeks into the flowering stage. If you do, you’ll risk interrupting the hormone production and movement that is critical to flower and bud production.

Get the Right Equipment

To get into pruning for bigger yields, you’ll need to purchase a small pair of pruning shears. This tool is specially designed to make clean and precise cuts. It’s important to make sure the blade is sharp; dull blades often lead to botched cuts.

Before using the shears, you should sanitize them in a rubbing alchohol. This helps prevent the spread of disease.

Topping Your Plant

As the name suggest, topping your plant refers to removing the upper-most portion of the plant. This portion of the plant is known as the apical meristem.

Topping should be done during the vegetative state of your plant’s growth cycle. After the plant has at least four nodes, make a straight cut across the tip of the main stem using your sterile pruning shears. You want to remove only one inch of material.

After topping, stop all pruning activity for one to two weeks. This will allow the plant to recover from the injury. For a successful recovery, make sure to provide proper plant nutrients.

Topping your plant impacts a phenomenom known as apical dominace. Apical dominace refers to the apex (top) of the plant being dominant over lateral buds. Simply put, plants grow upwards rather than outwards.

In more detail, the apical bud produces the plant horomone auxin. Auxin is responsible for inhibiting the growth of lateral buds. When you top your plant, you remove the apical bud. With the decrease in auxin, lateral growth increases.

While topping increase lateral growth, it’s important to understand the drawbacks of this pruning method. Each time you top your plant you add additional time to the vegetative stage before you can switch to flowering. This means keeping your plants in the 18/6 growth stage for weeks longer.

Remove Lower Leaves

Another step in pruning is removing lower leaves and shoots aren’t receiving proper sunlight. These parts of the plant will struggle to grow. However, plants will still direct energy toward their growth. By removing this tissue, your plant can direct more energy to other parts of the plant.

To prune the slower leaves and shoots, cut each off each piece at it’s base. Make sure to use sharp shears to make clean cuts.

Thin Out the Middle

After doing away with the lower limbs on your plant, it’s time to move up to the middle. Remove any short limbs, branches, and leaves at the center of your plant if there are branches and leaves outside them. These interior sections won’t get much light and will grow poorly.

Also remove shoots that are growing into other parts of the plant. This prevents injury and disease caused by rubbing.

Do Away with Dying and Diseased Sections

After pruning away healthy tissue, it’s important to remove dead and diseased sections. By removing these parts of the plant, you prevent the spread of disease. Remember, clean grow rooms promote better harvests.

Removing diseased tissue also allows you plant to direct more energy towards healthy parts of the plant. This ensures your lighting is efficient.

Allow Time for Recovery

After pruning a significant portion of your plant (no more than 1/3 at a time) give it time to heal fully before you prune again. Also make sure that you water your plant and feed it a nutrient solution immediately after pruning.

Adding in this additional step helps avoid too much shock to your plant and minimizes the recovery period needed before you’ll see nice growth once again.


Once you’ve practiced pruning for bigger yields, the process will become easier and more efficient. With proper technique, the right tools, and good timing, you can avoid a long spindly plant and instead end up with a wide and bushy plant that offers the best possible bud yields.

Careful pruning will increase your yields, and it will help you make the most of applied light and nutrients.

Apical Dominance

Pruning Ornamental Plants

Pruning Cannabis Plants

In this series of posts we’re taking a comprehensive look at a range of techniques used by growers to shape cannabis plants and facilitate cultivation. Pruning and training are essential tools to control the way our plants grow, whether to restrict height, maximise yields or as a management tool for the indoor cultivator trying to control multiple varieties in one grow space.

Pruning plants is a great way to maximise flower sites

When discussing these techniques, we can essentially split them into two basic types of method:

  • Destructive pruning methods that effect some kind of damage on the plant, like pinching out, FIM, super-cropping etc.
  • Non-destructive training techniques designed to minimise damage, such as LST (Low Stress Training), SCROG, etc.

Choosing between pruning or training as a method to control your plants is largely a matter of personal preference. Many gardeners dislike the “destructive” methods, which effectively damage the plant as part of the process, provoking a certain amount of stress and creating potential entry points for infection in the wounds left behind. For this reason some growers prefer to use non-destructive methods of bending and tying-down to control height and shape plants, an approach known as LST or Low Stress Training, which we examine in detail in another post. In this article we’re going to concentrate on the various techniques of pruning cannabis plants.

This Nepalese Jam plant has been pruned several times to form a small bush

There are several different ways to prune, among which can include Apical pruning, FIM, RIB, lollipopping, and others. Alongside the use of these types of pruning we can also incorporate other techniques such as super-cropping – partially breaking the stem or branches to redirect growing energy and better shape our plants.

Why prune cannabis plants?

There are many possible reasons for pruning cannabis plants, both indoors and outdoors, and the approach each grower takes will depend on his or her situation. Large scale Californian outdoor growers use a combination of apical pruning and training to great effect, starting seeds early in the year and repeatedly pinching out growing shoots to produce monster plants inside large wire cages that serve not only as support, but also as a trellis to train the plant, spreading the branches to allow better light penetration and encourage further secondary branching. This approach can be time-consuming, in particular “cleaning” the inside of the plants: removing weak spindly growth from the shaded area inside the cage, but growers are rewarded with giant bushes capable of yielding kilos of prime bud with very little “larf” or small, under-developed buds. Conversely, urban and suburban outdoor growers will need to start seeds or clones later on in the season and will often need to employ more drastic pruning and training techniques to keep plants short, compact and out of view, growing discretely away from prying eyes, whilst often delivering surprisingly high yields in greatly reduced spaces.

Indoor gardeners can also use these techniques, for example to keep plants from touching the hot lamps, as well as pruning and training plants to encourage them to best fill the grow room and create an even canopy, especially useful when growing two or ore different varieties in one space. The ultimate combination of training and pruning is probably SCROG style cultivation.

This plant has been topped, or apically pruned

Before beginning to prune the plants it’s worth looking at the kind of genetics we want to grow and how they might react to pruning. As a general rule, Sativas andSativa/Indica hybrids show naturally vigorous and branchy growth and will respond favourably to these methods, recovering quickly and soon growing upwards again after being topped or tied down, making them perfect candidates for practising these kinds of crop-maximising techniques. Pure Indica varieties, on the other hand, often lack the same vigorous vegetative growth and be more apical-dominant, tending to form one large central bud rather than many side branches. Indicas will tend to grow a little slower, naturally staying low and compact without any intervention, indeed many Indica strains react badly to apical pruning and can take a long time to recover, greatly slowing down growth and potentially affecting production. For this reason you may notice that many of the Indica varieties in our catalogue are marked as “suitable for SOG” (Sea of Green) where the aim is to fill the grow space with as many small plants as will fit, reduce veg time and to harvest in the shortest time possible.

When to prune plants?

The decision about when to start pruning or training plants will depend on the stage of the plants life and the individual situation of each grower. We can start training clones or seedlings from very early on, shaping them to suit our requirements as they develop their first leaves, however we recommend waiting until the plant is a bit bigger and stronger before beginning any “destructive” pruning or super cropping, as this can really hold back a plants development if practiced too early on. Wait at least until the second week of vegetative growth before pruning, when the plant has grown a few sets of true leaves.

We can prune with scissors, a knife, or clean fingernails

As previously mentioned, if we want large plants outdoors then pruning can take place continually throughout the vegetative period, while if we don’t have much space to grow and the idea is to keep plants low and out of view, then we’ll germinate later on in the season and use a combination of tying down and pruning to keep them discreet, always remembering to allow room for plants to stretch at the start of flowering, and although we can continue training while the stretch is going on, then any pruning should ideally be stopped around two weeks before the switch to bloom if we don’t want to negatively impact on yield, giving plants time to recover from any stress and start growing again from below the pruning cut before they start to flower. Now let’s have a closer look at a few of the more popular methods:

Topping, apical pruning or pinching out

Apical pruning, also sometimes referred to as “topping” or “pinching out” is one of the most familiar pruning techniques to the great majority of indoor and outdoor cultivators of cannabis. It allows us to control the height of the plants in a simple and effective way, by removing the topmost growing tip.

This plant was topped at an early stage, forming two main colas

This approach consists of simply cutting the apex or the growing tip of the plant using scissors, knife, cutting blade, cutter, etc., ideally previously sterilised to avoid infections during the operation, although many gardeners simply use clean fingernails to “pinch out” the tip while others bend it over until it snaps off cleanly. It’s important to remember that if we make clean cuts, the plants will suffer less stress, and will recover more quickly from the damage with less chance of getting infected.

By removing the active apical tip, we encourage lateral shoots to grow

The growing tip of the plant is where the main growth hormones, or auxins are concentrated. By cutting off the tip, we force the plant to redistribute hormones to the other parts of the plant, slowing down vertical growth and encouraging stronger growth in the lower branches, which will reach upwards to take the place of the apical tip, forming multiple leaders instead of just one and forming a more bush-like plant. This has the advantage of producing many more useful bud sites and an increase in yield. Outdoor growers in particular appreciate this approach as it encourages plants to produce lots of medium-sized flowers rather than one huge bud that could easily fall prey to bud-rot due to its large size and density. Cultivators keeping mother plants also use this technique to stimulate more branching to enable them take lots of healthy cuttings at a time.

FIM (Fuck I Missed)

FIM pruning in cannabis plants was discovered by accident, presumably in a failed attempt at performing apical pruning, hence the name “Fuck, I Missed”. As a process it is very similar to apical pruning, but with a slightly different cut: instead of removing 100% of the growing tip as in apical pruning, with FIM we leave behind around 20% of the tip, which, if performed properly, will provoke the plant to produce multiple shoots from that spot.

The difference between topping (apical) and FIM pruning

This type of pruning is performed to multiply the main and lateral shoots without having to sacrifice the upper shoots as in the case of apical pruning. This pruning technique can be used both in indoor and outdoor cultivation and also in the case of wanting to make mother plants.


The most widely-known method of encouraging branching in cannabis plants is by pruning, that is by removing a growing tip, but it’s not the only “destructive” option available. although for those growers unwilling to chop the top off a plant there are other options available, for example super-cropping.

A typical callus on a super-cropped stem

This technique consists of gently crushing the branch, without breaking it, as we redirect it horizontally in the desired direction to shape the plant. After a few days, the crushed area of the branch will become very much stronger, forming a thick, bulbous callous, and the part of the branch above this point will now grow more vigorously and give a higher yield of buds, also being more open to the light.

At this point we can tie the tips to guide the plant and continue to grow horizontally across if we want, instead of upwards. This technique can be repeated when necessary, even during flowering in extreme cases, such as when the main stem has grown too tall and the tip of the bud risks being burned by the lightbulb and we don’t have the option of raise it due to lack of headroom.

(RIB) Right I Burnt it

Another, much less well known “destructive” technique that also doesn’t involve any cutting is RIB, which stands for Right, I Burnt it, and basically consists of using a flame from a cigarette lighter or small blowtorch to lightly singe the buds around the third or fourth week of bloom, which provokes abundant re-flowering and an increase in yield.

This method was most probably discovered by accident when a careless cultivator let his plants to grow too close to the lamps early on during flowering, causing the tips of the buds to get burnt with the heat from the bulb. After rectifying the problem, he must have seen how the burnt areas, after recovering from the stress, began to produce abnormal amounts of flowers with very little leaf, eventually yielding much more than the un-burnt areas of bud.

If you’re going to experiment with RIB then don’t overdo it!

This approach is fairly extreme, it certainly has its disadvantages, and the jury is still out regarding its efficacy, as it does subject plants to a great deal of stress at a crucial time in their life cycle. Using RIB will tend to completely stop a plants development for a few days as it recovers from the shock, and can delay flowering by up to two weeks, during which time the plant displays classic stress/revegetation symptoms, for example deformed leaves with one to three fingers. That said, it’s clear that some growers who have experimented with this technique have been very pleased with the results indeed, and while we don’t recommend you taking a blowtorch to your entire flower room, we do encourage you to experiment and maybe try it on part of a plant to see the effect for yourself. If you’re trying to out, always put safety first and be sure to keep the flame away from any flammable materials!

Lollipopping – pruning for plant health

Although this type of pruning is used primarily to reduce the risk of pests and diseases affecting plants rather than to shape and train the structure of the plant, it is highly useful and is widely employed by both indoor and outdoor growers. The technique consists of cleaning out the bottom parts of the plants and removing all the weak lower growth that doesn’t receive much light, effectively leaving the stalk and lower branches free of foliage. If left to their own devices, these shaded areas of the plant won’t yield much in the way of flowers and may provoke issues by impeding air circulation around the base of the plant, leading to high humidity, cooler temperatures and a greater incidence of fungal infections or insect infestations. Pruning away this spindly lower growth helps plants stay healthier by removing the areas where these problems may begin; by increasing airflow to the upper part of the plants, lowering the risk of fungal attack in the main flowering area; and it also helps plants direct their energies towards the more productive upper zone, increasing the eventual yield.

This approach is almost always worth following when growing outdoors, whether to avoid mould problems in humid climates, or to help combat spider mites and other insects that thrive in dry conditions. This practice is often referred to as “lollipopping” because it leaves individual plants resembling a lollipop in shape, with a clean, stick-like stem below and large round foliage and flowers above, making ventilation, maintenance, foliar application and irrigation a much easier proposition for the gardener.

This SCROG grow has been lollipopped to maximise airflow

Now that we’ve looked at the various techniques used to prune cannabis plants, and seen how useful they can be, in our next post we’ll be dealing with some of the non-destructive methods of training our plants to optimise the growing space and maximise harvests.

Happy growing!

Does Pruning Bell Peppers Help: How to Prune Pepper Plants

There are many theories and suggestions that float around the world of gardening. One of them is that pruning pepper plants will help to improve the yield on peppers. You may be wondering if pruning bell peppers in your garden can help your peppers give you more fruit. The answer to this is not a simple one. Let’s look at the idea of pruning bell peppers and see if it is sound.

Two Kinds of Pepper Plant Pruning

First of all, we should make it clear that there are two ways for pruning bell peppers. The first way for pruning pepper plants is early season pruning and the second is late season pruning. We will look at the benefits of both of these.

Early season pepper plant pruning

When it comes to bell peppers, pruning at the beginning of the season, before the plant has set fruit, is suppose to help increase yield. The theory goes that the increased air circulation and better access of sunlight to the deeper parts of the plant will help it to grow more peppers.

In university studies, this kind of bell peppers pruning actually slightly decreased the number of fruits on the plant. So, the theory that doing this will increase the number of fruits is false.

That being said, the studies did find that if you prune peppers early in the season, the quality of the fruit was improved. So, pepper plant pruning is a trade off. You get slightly fewer fruit but those fruit will be bigger.

How to prune peppers early in the season

Early season pepper plant pruning shouldn’t be done until the plant is at least a foot tall, and can be stopped once fruit have set. Most pepper plants have an overall Y shape and branches then create smaller and smaller Ys off of the main stems. By the time the plant is a foot tall, you will be able to see the strongest branches on the plant. Cut back any smaller branches, including any suckers. Suckers are branches growing from the crook where two other branches form a Y.

Be careful not to damage the main Y of the plant as this is the backbone of the plant. Damaging it will cause the plant to perform poorly.

Late season pepper plant pruning

The main reason to prune peppers late in the season is speed up maturing the fruit that are sill on the plant. Pruning bell peppers late in the season does help to speed up the ripening process because it focuses the plant’s energy on the remaining fruit.

How to prune peppers late in the season

A few weeks before first frost, trim back all the branches on the plant except for the branches that have fruit that have a chance of ripening before the end of the season. From the entire plant, carefully snip off the flowers and any fruit too small to have a chance to fully ripen before the frost. Pruning pepper plants this way will force the remaining energy in the plant to the remaining fruit.

By Gary Pilarchik (The Rusted Garden)

There are several reasons you may want to prune peppers. One reason is to help the pepper plants develop stronger sturdier stems. Another reason is to force or create a bushier plant with more side shoots which leads to more flowers and potentially more peppers.

Visit my YouTube Channel with over 800 gardening videos: The Rusted Garden

I want to be clear, you do not have to do this. If you haven’t pruned peppers before, take the middle ground. Prune a couple plants and see how they respond. One of the things I love about gardening is that it is an ongoing creative experiment you can vary year to year. Create your own experiment, especially if you are growing several of one variety of pepper.

Your pruned plant will grow upward, it won’t remain stunted, as new growing tips take over. If your variety is natural small and compact, I would not recommend removing the growing tip. Many ‘Habanero’ varieties tend to fit that category. Pruning is done differently, if at all, with smaller compact peppers.

Pruning helps plants manage high wind periods and better support heavy crops of peppers. Stronger stems means less breaking as pepper stems can easily snap. Removing the main growing tip will create more side shoot growth in 95% of pepper varieties. I found a few that don’t seem to respond well or fare any better to the removal or topping off, as it is called, to the growth-tip.. ‘Banana’ or “Bell’ peppers are two. ‘Banana’ peppers seem to grow furiously own their own and pruning didn’t improve production. My ‘Bell’ peppers seemed a little stunted and didn’t really get a ton of side growth. In general, pruning, will create a bushier plant that will branch out and flower more. The more flowers, the greater the yield of peppers.

Pruning or topping off of the growth-tip is fairly simple. Just remove it. Here is my original pruning video (2016) if you would like to see how it is done. Pruning can be done many ways. This is just one way I prefer.

Pruning ultimately lets you make a stronger plant that produces more. I will be doing an ongoing series based on the peppers I am pruning for 2017. I will be using control groups when available. Here is what young pruned peppers look like (from the above video), about 1 month later after their initial pruning. This video is from 2016. They are compared to unpruned peppers of the same variety so you can see the early changes.

Guest Post: This is a guest post from Lana, whose blog The Joy Blog is all about joyful living and small-space gardening. If you are looking to guest post on my site, please contact me.

I’ve been growing my vegetables and flowers on top of a fenced-in concrete patio for the past three years. It’s a pretty big learning curve, because I haven’t quite figured out my growing zone yet. I live in zone 6b, but the concrete slab under my patio garden heats things up to similar temperatures as Arizona in summer! Trying to keep everything alive and productive is half of the fun.

Speaking of productive plants, let’s talk about helping pepper plants produce better.

What is the best way to increase productivity in peppers?

How do you fix a leggy pepper plant so it gets bushier and produces a better harvest?

This year is my first year growing peppers from seeds. In the past, I’ve purchased seedlings from a local greenhouse and the only tending I did for them was pinch off the first blossoms so they’d grow bigger before fruiting. The seedlings were always well shaped and had leaves all the way up the main stem and branches.

My homegrown seedlings were started indoors a few weeks too early (first time seed-growing excitement is to blame), and, as a result, they have started to get leggy while waiting for it to be warm enough to plant them outside. They are a foot tall but have over an inch, or even two, between leaf sets on the main stem. Since it’s warm enough to put them outside during the day, the tops of the plants were getting more densely leaved, but the stem was still virtually leaf-free. Without more leaves and branches on the lower levels of the stem, my pepper plants would be weak, trying to carry all their peppers at the top.

I did some digging through the internet and found several people who prune their pepper plants at about the height mine are, and it helps the plants grow more leaves and branches down the stem. All of this bushing out will create more strength for carrying peppers, and produce more branches for peppers to grow on, thus increasing my harvest (I hope!).

After watching a few quick videos (including Gary Pilarchik’s – his are the best!), I gave it a go.

How and Why You Should Prune Pepper Plants:

The result of pruning peppers after only a few days.

What you will need:

  • Small pruning shears or scissors, depending on how thick your main stem is. I like to use my small Fiskars hand pruners.
  • The willingness to hurt your plants to make them better.


  1. Assess where the uppermost large set of leaves is. It’s typically going to be about an inch down from the top bushing section. You’ll want to cut right above them.
  2. Gently hold back the leaves below where you’re pruning to avoid cutting them off. Make sure not to accidentally break them off, either. You want to leave at least 4 or 5 leaves in order for your plant to be able to provide enough energy to grow bushier.
  3. Clip the stem.
  4. Try very hard not to freak out about what you’ve done to your pepper plants. (Optional)

So nervous about pruning all my peppers. My research online said to do it since they were tall and leggy, so they’d get more bushy. Did I do this right?! Super nervous that I ruined all my pepper plants. #help #helpme

A post shared by Lana L. (@lanathegardener) on Apr 11, 2017 at 5:50pm PDT

Here is my post-pruning Instagram story in which I freak out about what I’ve just done to my pepper plants.

Once I had clipped the tops off them, I was left with a pile of beautiful pepper leaves, and sad, naked pepper plants. Without their bushy tops they look pretty pitiful. The good news is, just 24 hours later, I noticed tiny leaf nodes forming on the stem where the big leaves are attached! So, it would appear the plants are already putting their energy into new leafy growth. It’s exciting to see, and hopefully they bounce back quickly from their pruning.

Pruning isn’t necessary for pepper plants, but if you find yours getting leggy like mine, you can try this method to make your plants bushier and stronger. If you’ve tried this, let me know your results! It’s still too early to tell what will happen with mine, but I’m very optimistic. Good luck, and I hope you have an excellent growing year!

Here are some of the tools that are used. Disclaimer: The links to some of these tools are my affiliate links. Meaning, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you, should you purchase the product through my affiliate link. 429 Shares

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