- How Can I Propagate My Corn Plant Houseplant?
- Pruning And Repotting A Madagascar Dragon Tree
- Here’s One I Pruned And Repotted
- Repotting and Pruning Tips
- Pruning Dracaena Plants: Tips For Dracaena Trimming
- How to Prune a Dracaena
- Starting a New Plant with Dracaena Cuttings
- Madagascar Dragon Tree
- Pruning a Dracaena or Dragon Tree
- Lisa Cane
How Can I Propagate My Corn Plant Houseplant?
Corn plants propagate relatively well. If you cut off the top, the cane that is left normally will re-sprout, although it may take a couple of months to do so. You can use the stem tip that is cut off as a cutting, sticking it in a pot after dusting the cut end with rooting powder. Keep it humid and moist until new roots form. You can also propagate it by placing a piece of the cane on its side in moist rooting medium, again keeping it humid and moist (by covering it with plastic) until new roots and shoots form.
If you’re still not sure about taking a cutting, you could also air layer the plant. Rather than completely cutting off the top, simply make a notch in the stem about halfway around the stem. Prop it open with toothpicks. Dust with rooting powder. Wrap moist sphagnum moss around the stem, and enclose the moss in clear plastic. Keep the moss moist until you see new roots developing. At that time, cut off the stem just below the roots, and pot up the new plant.
Pruning And Repotting A Madagascar Dragon Tree
The Madagascar dragon tree is a fantastic resilient species from the Dracaena genus (botanical name: Dracaena marginata). This is one of the easiest plants to grow and maintain…..
The dragon tree will need to be pruned and repotted at times. It’s usually best to prune when growth appears to be strong at the beginning of spring. This is when you’re likely to see the lower leaves on a stem begin to yellow.
When the lower leaves yellow or begin to look unhealthy remove them (this is normal for this plant – its just preparing for new growth). Pull the leaves downwards on the stem and they will just peel off.
Here’s One I Pruned And Repotted
This plant (see picture below) is very low in height for a dracaena marginata. I cut it (topped it) this way because of not wanting it to grow tall.
Topping: You will see on the image below that the dragon trees main stem in the center has been cut at the top. This is called topping that is done with many plants that can grow tall. This helps a plant to branch out and restricts the height (this plant can never grow any taller).
The plant below had a fair bit of neglect and needs leaves and canes removed. It is also became pot bound and the soil needs renewing.
Seriously Needed Repotting
After Repotting and Pruning: This is the same plant as above after pruning and repotting, looking pretty healthy now.
Training growth: I’m really hoping I can train this one to grow its canes close to each other. The green tie is a soft plastic material that does not harm the bark, tied gently. After new growth has formed the plant will follow the direction I have trained it to grow. Tying to support a plant can be done at any time but to train a plant it must be done in spring or when new growth is appearing.
Repotting and Pruning Tips
Pruning: As mentioned above remove any lower leaves yellowing or looking unhealthy (just peel them off). For cutting a stem use a good cutting knife or secateurs….
You can remove a stem if it is growing out of form with the rest of the plant or remove a lower stem to encourage upper growth. I always cut it right back to the main stem/trunk but you can cut it to any length then this stem will produce a new branch.
The stem/cane cuttings can be used for propagating (you can propagate 2 -3 in stem cuttings or plant a whole stem with most the lower leaves removed). More info on propagating can be found here. Look at the section for stem and cane cuttings.
As mentioned previously you can top the plant by cutting the main stem/trunk with a good sharp knife to your desired height. Remember it will not grow taller than thecut though…but it will encourage new branches near the top of the new tip.
Don’t worry about over pruning or harming a dracaena marginata its a tough cookie and easy to prune and care for.
Repotting: Repotting should be done about once every two years or so. If they become root bound growth is likely to be very slow. You can check the bottom of the pot to see if roots are appearing through the drainage holes and if they are the plant is root bound.
To repot first get yourself a new pot that is 1 -3 inches bigger in width than the current pot. Lean the pot on its side holding the plants stem carefully and try to ease the plant out. You may need to tap the bottom or press and squeeze the sides of the pot to encourage the plant to come out (only plastic pots).
Loosen as much of the old soil from the roots as possible and check for any unhealthy roots (also remove them). Loosen all the roots so they are kind of hanging down rather than spiralling around (spiralling around is a sign the plant has become root bound).
Place enough potting mix in the pot so the plant is kind of sitting at the same level as it was previously. Cover the outer edges of the plant within the pot a couple of centimetres at least below the top of the pot. An all purpose potting mix is fine to use for this plant.
You are now ready to go! Water the plant thoroughly and place it back in the same position it was before treating it.
Same Plant Nine Months Later (looking healthy)
This Video Clip Is Useful About Repotting
Here you will find a description and care instructions for the Dracaena Marginata ”
Pruning Dracaena Plants: Tips For Dracaena Trimming
Dracaena is a genus of about 40 versatile, easy-to-grow plants with distinctive, strappy leaves. Although dracaena is suitable for growing outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, it is most often grown as a houseplant.
Depending on the cultivar, dracaena may reach heights of up to 10 feet (3 m.) or even more, which means that regular dracaena trimming will probably be necessary. The good news is that pruning dracaena plants isn’t difficult. These sturdy plants tolerate trims with little complaint, and you can cut back a dracaena to any height you like.
How to Prune a Dracaena
Pruning dracaena plants produces a full, healthy plant, as two or more new branches, each with its own cluster of leaves, will soon appear. Dracaena pruning isn’t at all difficult. Here’s some helpful tips on how to cut back a dracaena.
The best time for pruning dracaena plants is when the plant is actively growing in spring and summer. If possible, avoid dracaena trimming while the plant is dormant in fall and winter.
Be sure your cutting blade is sharp so cuts will be clean and even. Ragged cuts are unsightly and can invite disease. Dip your pruners or knife into a mixture of bleach and water to ensure it is free of disease-causing pathogens.
Cut the canes at an angle to reduce the risk of infection. Remove any damaged canes, brown leaves or weak growth.
Starting a New Plant with Dracaena Cuttings
When you cut back a dracaena, simply stick the cane in a pot filled with moist sand or perlite. Watch for new growth to appear in a few weeks, which indicates the plant has rooted.
Alternatively, stick the cane in a glass of water on your kitchen windowsill. When it has rooted, plant the cane in a container filled with potting mix.
Madagascar Dragon Tree
Madagascar dragon tree does best in a bright spot, but will tolerate low-light conditions so you can grow it practically anywhere. In such low-light spots, you may see it lose the red or pink coloring on leaf edges and it will grow more slowly (and also require less water).
Water Madagascar dragon tree when the top inch or so of the soil starts to dry. The plant holds up to dry conditions fairly well, so you don’t have to worry about it dying if you miss a watering or two.
If your Madagascar dragon tree develops brown leaf tips, the most common cause is low humidity. Add more moisture to the air by grouping it near other houseplants, moving it to a humid room such as bathroom, or setting your Madagascar dragon tree on a large tray filled with pebbles and water (so the bottom of the pot is on the pebbles, above the water line).
Fertilize Madagascar dragon tree once or twice a year at minimum with a houseplant fertilizer. If you want your plant to grow faster, you can feed it more frequently. Just don’t exceed the recommendations on the fertilizer package.
If you wish to prune your Madagascar dragon tree, you can cut the top off; it will sprout new branches. If you pot the part you cut off in moist potting mix, it may root and grow into another plant.
This wonderful houseplant is not recommended for human or animal consumption.
Pruning a Dracaena or Dragon Tree
By Kay B. (Guest Post) December 22, 20080 found this helpful Best Answer
Below is info I got from googling. I’ve had afew of these plants over the years and I like to cut them back so that they do bud and form other shoots off of the stem, which it looks like you could very well do that and reduce the height of your plant so that you could keep the original plant in hour home if that’s what you want to do.
Just a thought — on one of your son and wife’s anniversaries you could give them back the cuttings off the top of the plant. Usually when I cut mine I just put it aside for a couple of days to let the wound heal over and then I apply rooting hormone to it before potting. If you’re a plant lover like I am a lot of my plants have sentimental value and this would keep the thought alive — love endures!
“Draceana’s come from the Dragon Tree, dracaena draco, which is a native plant to the Canary Islands, so their growing habits, likes and dislikes, and temperamental preferences are all very similar.
They can grow to more than 4m (12-13ft) but can easily be kept smaller by pruning the stems prior to spring.
The stems of a draceana marginata are commonly flexible and thin and seem adequately disproportionate to its height and also the foliage that tops it.
They can easily be bent and shaped to conform to your structural desires by using bonsai wire to contort each stem.
If your dracaena is only single-stemmed and you want it to branch out, cut the foliage from the top and reduce the stem to the desired height. Within a few months the foliage will begin to bud from the wound and new branches will grow.
How to propagate dracaena maginata
Draceana’s can be propagated by a variety of ways but the most easiest is by taking a cutting from the stem and after applying some rooting hormone to the base (don’t forget which end is ‘up’) firmly push it into some potting mix. Water frequently and apply a liquid fertilizer when the foliage begins to appear.
Other methods of propagating dracaena include air-layering and basal root cuttings.
Fertilising dracaena marginata
Soluble liquid fertilisers are the best form of nutrient release for dracaena’s but during their dormant period you can also add some slow release pellets to their growing area or container.”
Reply Was this helpful?
This versatile plant is great for low-light and tight areas, and it’s pretty easy to keep looking good. Here’s what you need to know about the Lisa Cane:
The Lisa Cane is propagated in Hawaii, so it’s grown in lava rock giving it some very forgiving watering requirements. Preferring only a slightly moist rootzone, it won’t drink a lot of water, and with the right set up and spot, it can go a full month (and sometimes several months) between waterings. See our watering guide for more information.
This plant is a Dracaena, and has one of the lowest light requirements of all the plants we offer. It’s great near a window with filtered light or a corner with only artificial light. Do not, however, expose this plant to direct sunlight or it will burn the leaves very quickly.
The Lisa Cane will not need to be fed during the first 12 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.
This is an easy plant to keep clean, and a good thing because its deep green leaves can get dusty over time. Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick. For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth; then wipe. This will restore the luster to your plant.
Don’t. Unless your plant is not meeting the dimensions of its intended space, you will not need to prune this plant. Older leaves, though, may yellow, and they can be pruned or snapped off. Brown tips can be trimmed off to the contour of the leaf. See our pruning guide for details.
The Lisa is not a big target for pests. Mealybugs will be the main pest, and sometimes scale will affect the plant. Both easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution. It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests, but persistence will pay off.
Minor leaf spots and old age will be your biggest worry with the Lisa Cane.
- Leaf spots – Spots on the leaves may be a natural imperfection from production. If your new Lisa has a few spots, don’t sweat it – it’s Mother Nature’s way of letting you know it’s a real, live plant. Over time, leaf spots, especially on the margins, can develop from a build-up of fluoride in the leaves from water sources treated with fluoride – like almost everywhere that water comes from a treatment plant. If you can water with rain water from your garden, have at it; otherwise, be on the lookout for discolored margins over a very long period of time. When older leaves become unsightly, just remove them.
- Yellow and brown leaves – Old leaves may turn yellow and begin to brown. These should be removed.