Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client’s Request: I’m expanding my garden significantly. I really can’t afford the cost now to buy a lot of nursery plants. Instead, I’d like to propagate more of my Star Jasmine and Upright Rosemary. Please provide me some guidance on how I can do that.
Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your questions on the propagation of your upright rosemary and Star Jasmine. With some reasonable care, you should be able to readily propagate these plants for your garden.
Upright Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is propagated from softwood cuttings of the non-flowering branches in early summer. You can also layer established low branches by scooping a shallow trench, burying the branch, and putting a rock over it to keep it from springing up. There should be enough roots on the new plant in about 6-8 weeks to detach and transplant it to a new location. Rosemary is relatively easy to propagate, that you may also be able to start your softwood cuttings in water and then transplant them to a container mix or possibly into the ground with some tender care and oversight during the initial planting and maintenance.
Where to take your cuttings for propagation The softwood or greenwood cuttings are taken from new growth, usually in mid to late spring or early summer before the wood has matured. Detach a 2 to 6-inch piece of stem, including the terminal bud. Make the cut just below a leaf node (this is easy with rosemary because there are so many tiny leaves!). Remove lower leaves that would touch or be below the rooting medium, and dip the stem in rooting hormone. Then, insert the cutting into the rooting medium deeply enough to support itself. Gather your cutting material early in the day for best results.
Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides), is propagated by taking semi-hardwood cuttings in summer. Cut a 10- to 12-inch length of vine from a vigorous star jasmine plant. Use clean pruners or a sharp knife to make the cut just below a node, which is a small swelling where a leaf or bud emerges. Divide the vine into 3- to 4-inch stems, with each cut just below a node.
I have attached some additional hints and references below that cover all steps of softwood and semi-hardwood propagation and that also include more detail about what type of planting medium and containers that you can use.
A Few Hints for Successful Propagation:
- Cutting materials should be free from pest and disease, young and succulent, and preferably not flowering. Tip cuttings should be able to bend but not break.
- The cuttings should be dipped into a rooting hormone for inducement to produce roots. Examples of the types of rooting hormones available are Hormex (powder) and Dip n Grow (Liquid). Independent nurseries usually carry these products, and they are also available online (e.g., Amazon, etc.). Low strength hormones should be used for your cuttings. Using too high a concentration of hormone solution will cause the cutting to fail rather than increase the rooting ability. This is where more is not better.
- After cuttings have rooted (generally two to three weeks) they can be moved into a pot with a good garden loam mix. In transplanting cuttings, be careful of their roots. Lift cuttings from their tray by using a fork or a pencil or anything which can be put below to loosen and lift them without disturbing the roots excessively.
- Keep the cuttings in a shaded area, and water regularly. Once their roots have filled out the pot (anywhere from 3 weeks to 6 weeks) they can then be planted into the ground., but will require extra watering and attention for the first several months
Here are some further plant propagation links that should also be informative:
Please let us know if you have additional questions about propagation of your plants.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SLH)
Don’t miss our 2017 Great Tomato Plant Sale:
- Jasmine Propagation Methods
- Jasmine Propagation: How to Grow Jasmine from Cuttings
- Propagating Jasmine From Cuttings
- How to Transplant Ground Cover
- Growing and Planting Jasmine from Seeds
Jasmine Propagation Methods
Jasmine is a popular plant that grows in most climates around the world and there are different varieties. They are native to Europe, Africa, and Asia, and grow well in warm climates. Learning how to propagate Jasmine will keep you from relying on the nursery. Below, you will also find a few simple care tips that can make it easier to grow the plant.
Methods of Propagation
The two most successful methods are sewing seeds and taking cuttings. Whichever method of propagation you choose, the care techniques required will be the same.
You can buy Jasmine seeds for propagation online, from a nursery, or you can collect them yourself from a mature plant. Before buying or collecting, decide which type you want.
There are over 300 different varieties. Some of the varieties available are shrubs, those that climb, ones that have a strong fragrance, and those that are highly toxic to humans and pets.
In the late summer, the plants will produce a bean-like seed pod. They can break open at any time and spill seeds everywhere, so the best method of collection is gently attaching a sandwich baggie right above the seed pod using a twist tie. This way, when the pod explodes you will catch all of the seeds. When the seed pod begins turning brown you will know it is mature and is about to expel its seeds.
Soak the jasmine seeds in warm water overnight before planting. To improve success of the seeds germinating you should start them off in seed trays. Use a seed starting mix and cover the seeds lightly with soil. Keep the seeds at 70 F with 8 to 10 hours of indirect sunlight a day.( If you cannot maintain this temperature, place a heating pad set on low underneath the seed trays.) Fill a clean spray bottle with filtered or rain water and mist the seeds daily. Never allow them to dry out or become too soggy. Seeds can be slow to germinate and may take as long as one month.
If you want to start your seeds inside and move them outside in the spring, start the seeds about six weeks before your last hard frost. Otherwise, you can start the seeds at any time of year.
Rachel Klein, gardening expert, gives the following advice: “Once the the seedlings have reached 3 inches in height they can then be either potted up into individual containers or planted out in the garden when temperatures reach 70 F during the day and 50 F at night.”
Another simple way of propagating jasmine is by growing it from cuttings. This is easier than you might think. Start by taking a cutting from a plant when there are no flowers on it. Ideally, this should be done in late summer to early fall. Using sharp scissors, take a 2 or 3 inch section of jasmine and snip it off the plant right below a leaf. Make the cut at a 30 degree angle.
Remove the bottom leaves to leaf nodes. Then dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting powder. Press the cutting into a moist, medium-like sterile potting soil; ideally a combination of vermiculite, perlite, and peat. Never use garden soil, which may be contaminated with bacteria or harmful microbes. Plant the cutting at a depth of one inch.
Place your container in a room that gets good light but no direct sun. Keep the cuttings at 70 degrees F, using a heating pad set to low underneath the pot if this temperature is not possible. Fill a clean spray bottle with filtered or rain water, and mist the cuttings daily to keep them moist and keep the humidity up. Alternatively, you can cut some ventilation holes in a ziplock baggie and place it overtop of the cutting to maintain a high level of humidity.
If you’re trying to grow jasmine by taking cuttings, you need to take more than you need. Not all of these cuttings will take and it’s always better to have more than you need.
Ideal Conditions for Jasmine
Jasmine grows best in positions that have full sunlight, although it also grows well in partial shade. You will have more success with a moist soil that drains well. Adding leaf mold to the soil can improve the conditions and improve growth.
Pick a space that is big enough to accommodate the mature size of your jasmine, this is dependent on the variety you have chosen. Dwarf Jasmine (Jasmine minima) will only grow to 6 inches tall, while some varieties can grow to be 15 feet tall.
Caring for Jasmine Plants
You should ideally plant them outside between June and November. If you are planting more than one plant together, space them around 8 feet apart so that they have enough space to grow. Adding fertilizer in the spring will help the plant to grow. For best results, use an organic fertilizer such as leaf mold or compost. However, a commercial preparation of 1-2-1 works well also.
When planting young plants you should tie them to supports to ensure they don’t get damaged by the wind. Pinch out the tips of the plants to help stimulate growth.
It’s important to water the plants regularly, and you should make sure the soil is kept moist during the summer months. During the winter, however, you don’t need to water quite as often. During the spring, add fertilizer to the water to help the plant along.
Rachel’s points out: “Watering is important but you shouldn’t water the plant too often. Watering too often can cause root rot which can kill the plant.”
Regular pruning is required to prevent the jasmine plants from getting too big. Pruning methods will depend on the variety, as well as the plant’s purpose.
Rachel suggests: “Jasmine needs heavy pruning to keep it shapely. Heavy pruning should be done right after the plant has finished flowering, usually in late summer to early fall.”
Jasmine Propagation: How to Grow Jasmine from Cuttings
Follow the step-by-step guide on Jasmine propagation from cuttings. The procedure to grow all types of jasmine from cuttings is the same including Arabian jasmine and Spanish jasmine. You can also grow jasmine cuttings in water.
The jasmine propagation methods include growing jasmine from seeds or cuttings and layering. However, growing jasmine from cuttings is quite easy.
Jasmine or Mogra Flowers
Jasmine is one of the best plants that help you sleep better . Follow the given guide to propagate Jasmine (Mogra or Biblical Jasmine) from stem cuttings or layering method. The method for growing jasmine from cuttings can be followed for all varieties of jasmine including Arabic jasmine (sampaguita, Jasminum sambac), Spanish jasmine (Chameli, Indian jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum), Common jasmine (Jasminum officinale), Italian jasmine (Jasminum humile), Asian Star jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum), Winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Primrose jasmine (Jasminum mesnyi, yellow flowers), etc.
The Arabian Jasmine, also called as Biblical Jasmine and Mogra flowers are very famous for their fragrance. The Mogra plant is in its full beauty in hot summers. As the jasmine buds open after sun set, the environment is filled with its heavenly fragrance in the evenings. Growing a Mogra plant in the kitchen garden is quite common in India and other Asian countries.
Propagating Jasmine From Cuttings
A few years ago one of my friends presented me a small Arabian Jasmine plant. Soon the plant grew to a small bush and produced plenty of heavenly scented flowers. I decided to propagate this plant by cuttings, some suggest to root Arabian jasmine cutting in water. I tried to grow jasmine from cuttings in water, but by simply putting jasmine cuttings in water did not root even in 3 months. Later I tried jasmine propagation from cuttings i n soil and that was successful. I made many cuttings of my jasmine plant and rooted them. I was delighted to get new jasmine plants which I gifted to my friends. You can also grow Jasmine starting from cuttings, just follow the procedure as described below.
Jasmine care in winter | Queen of night plant care
There are different varieties of jasmine plant depending on the size and the number of petals on the flower. The single petal flower has thin petals, while the many petal flower looks like a small white rose.
The Grand Duke type of jasmine develops into a shrub, there are other varieties that forms a small bush.The propagation of Arabian Jasmine is similar to the propagation of blueberries, propagating bougainvillea, propagation of hydrangea, propagation of roses by cuttings and propagation of Spanish jasmine.
Jasmine Propagation By Cuttings
The success rate of growing a new jasmine plant with cutting is fairly good, but it depends on the skills and patience of the person propagating it. I had put 3 cuttings in one pot and all the three grew into new plants. Later on I propagated many jasmine cuttings and all were successful. It is the best plant to give to your friends as a gift.
What is the right time to start propagation of jasmine?
The jasmine cuttings will root easily from spring to summer. The ideal temperature is around 22°C, however, I have rooted the cuttings in much hotter days.
Start propagating the jasmine in early morning or evening.
Arabian Jasmine Cutting
- Taking Jasmine Cuttings: Take a small pot, 3-4 inch and fill it with a well-drained potting mix. Water thoroughly and leave the pot for one hour to drain.
- Look for a semi-hardwood stem which should be firm and woody, but still flexible enough to bend. Cut the stem of the size of a pencil just below a node with a sharp knife. Remove all the leaves from the bottom one-third of the stem.
- Scrap the bottom of the stem a bit and dip it in rooting hormone powder. (natural homemade rooting hormone)
- Planting the Cuttings: Using a stick make a hole at the center of the pot and carefully insert the Arabian Jasmine stem into the soil so that at least 2 nodes are in the soil. Do not push the stem in the soil to avoid any damage to the cutting. Do not water again.
- Cover the pot inside a clear polythene bag to maintain humidity and place it bright place but out of direct sun.
- Open the cover periodically, say after every 10 days to allow fresh air. You may damp the soil a little bit. Do not water too much as there are no roots yet, otherwise the stem will rot.
- Within 5-6 weeks, new growth will emerge. Take out the pot and let it remain in indirect sunlight until 2-3 sets of leaves appear.
- Carefully transplant the new plant into another pot or ground. How to grow Jasmine plant.
after 2 months
Propagated Jasmine, see the roots
Jasmine Propagation by Layering
- Propagating the Jasmine plant by layering is easier using the following 4 simple steps.
- Bend a branch in a “U” shape near at least one node and remove the leaves near the U shape.
- Lightly scrap the bottom of the U, bend it down and cover it with soil, ensuring to bury at least one node. Put a small weight to keep it under the soil, while the growing tip exposed to air.
- Keep the soil moist but do not overwater. Roots will form in 2-3 months time.
- Wait for at least 2 sets of leaves to grow, then the new plant can be separated and put in another pot or in ground.
Video of how to grow Jasmine from Cuttings: Step-by-Step Guide For High Success Rate
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how to grow Jasmine from Cuttings
How to Transplant Ground Cover
ground cover, image by hazel proudlove from Fotolia.com
Ground covers are handy plants to have around. They can control erosion on a difficult slope or fill in bare spots next to a driveway or foot path. Most ground covers are evergreen and are often planted under shady trees where nothing else will grow. Most are low-maintenance plants that usually require only an occasional trim once they’re established. They can easily be transplanted from one location to another.
Transplant ground covers in early spring so that the roots have time to establish before the heat of summer. If you live in a warm climate with mild winters, ground covers can be transplanted in spring or autumn. If possible, transplant on a cool, overcast day.
Prepare the planting area at least a day ahead of time. Work the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches with a spade or tiller, then work in 3 to 4 inches of compost or manure. Water the area lightly the day before transplanting.
Dig the ground cover with a spade or garden fork. Dig on all sides of the plant, then lift the plant carefully from the ground. Keep the roots intact as much as possible. Remove any dead area or yellowing areas, along with areas that have rotten, brown or soft roots.
Place the ground cover on a piece of cardboard or in a cardboard box to move the plant to its new area. If you won’t be transplanting the ground cover immediately, place the plant in the shade and keep the roots damp.
Dig a hole only as deep as the ground cover’s root ball, but two or three times as wide. Place the ground cover in the hole. Be sure the plant is at the same soil level as it was planted previously. If the ground cover is planted too deep, the plant can rot.
Back-fill the hole with reserved soil. Water the area to settle the soil around the roots, then add more soil to replace any soil that has settled.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch around the ground cover, but don’t pile it directly on the plants. Mulch will conserve soil moisture, deter weeds and enrich the soil
Keep the soil damp until the transplanted ground cover roots, which is indicated by the appearance of new growth. After that time, most ground covers require irrigation only during hot, dry weather.
HAVE WEEDS had their way with you this year? The long, wet spring encouraged invaders from bindweed to horsetail to multiply and colonize. I can’t remember such a year for garden thugs.
Gardening is all about covering the ground, with hardscape, gravel or plants you actually want to be growing. Bare soil is as clear an invitation to weeds as a hosta leaf is to a slug.
With our patience and bodies still worn from all that weeding, why not fill in any bare, weedy spots with ground covers before next spring’s onslaught? Cooler weather and autumn rains will help new plants get established before winter, and come spring give them a head start against the weeds.
Low-lying, carpeting plants come to mind when we talk ground covers. I love dark, crinkle-leafed ajuga, creeping thyme and Corsican mint to edge beds and fill in between pavers. But there are many more possibilities. Taller plants, like ornamental grasses, small shrubs, and dense perennials all work as ground covers. Really, any plant that spreads obligingly but not aggressively, and grows thickly enough to keep down the weeds, will do the job.
For a stunning example of taller ground covers, check out the entry bed near the parking lot at the Bellevue Botanical Garden. Ribbons of catmint and ruby red barberry punctuate masses of ornamental grasses in varying textures. If any weeds are trying to get a toehold on this hillside, you sure can’t see them.
Three things to remember about ground covers: Choose wisely so the ground covers themselves don’t become the weeds you were trying to prevent in the first place. Plant ground covers close together so they smother weeds sooner rather than a few years from now. And third, do all you can to get them off to a good start.
This means preparing the soil, weeding it thoroughly, adding compost and mulch. A soaker hose will keep the young plants well-watered next summer.
For ground covers that take foot traffic, check out “Stepables” (www.stepables.com/). Broaden your definition, and consider everything from strawberries to ferns and dwarf conifers as possible ground-cover candidates. A few of my favorites are sedges (especially the auburn Carex testacea), hellebores and drifts of golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’).
It’s hard to predict which plants will prove to be invasive. Who understands the alchemy that turns a plant into a raging demon in one location but not another? I’ve known gardeners who have struggled to grow the same English ivy the rest of us rip out in horror.
Every gardener has plants they regret; play it safe and stay away from those listed. While these all-too-successful ground covers (often marketed as “robust” or “vigorous”) are widely available in nurseries, each should carry the botanical equivalent of a Mr. Yuk sticker.
Valerie Easton is a Seattle freelance writer and author of “petal & twig.” Check out her blog at www.valeaston.com. Mike Siegel is a Seattle Times staff photographer.
Growing and Planting Jasmine from Seeds
Jasmine plants are renowned for their heady fragrance and beautiful glossy foliage. Whether from cuttings or from seed, you can plant and grow jasmine from seeds relatively easily both indoors and outdoors, making them popular with gardeners. If you do it right, your jasmine plant can grow 8-10 feet high, though it is most hardy in USDA zones 6-10.
Step 1 — Choose a Type of Jasmine
There are over 300 different jasmine plants, and getting the right one for your garden or home is vital. Some types of jasmine are shrubs and some are climbing vines. Some have evergreen leaves, some deciduous.
Some gardeners even prefer the Confederate jasmine, which is not a real jasmine at all but has similar small white flowers that produce a heavy perfume. Watering regularly and placing it in a cool, partially shaded area will keep this plant happy.
As a safety measure, do your homework on the type of jasmine you want before you begin cultivation. Many types of false jasmine are highly poisonous. If you have pets or children, make sure to only buy a non-toxic variety. Jasmine makes a beautiful indoor plant but will shed leaves that could be consumed by a dog or other pet.
The Carolina Jasmine, or Jessamine, is a good wall climber and displays yellow fragrant bells. This is a showy and strongly perfumed plant. It is not a true jasmine, and it is a poisonous plant and should be kept away from children. The Carolina is drought-tolerant and is able to handle the cold.
Jasminum officinale or grandiflorum are both non-toxic varieties. If you plan to use your jasmine flowers to make tea Jasminums sambac or Jasminums tisane are the best varieties. Cestrum nocturnum, or night-blooming jasmine, has clusters of fragrant white flowers that release their scent as the sun goes down and can be smelled up to 300 feet away.
Step 2 — Obtain Your Jasmine Seeds
Jasmine flowers can be pollinated by either insects or by the gardener (using a cotton swab or small paint brush and taking care not to damage the flower stems).
In the late summer, jasmine plants produce seeds within bean-like seed pods, which need to be watched carefully if you intend to plant them in order to produce seedlings. These jasmine seed pods can break open suddenly once the pod is ripe and spill the seeds everywhere. Catching the ripe pods before they open means that you can save the seeds. Look for the pod turning brown, as this is the sign that it has ripened and is about to burst.
Tip: If your jasmine seed pods are ripening, but you cannot check them frequently enough to ensure they will not explode, wrap sandwich baggies around the pods and secure them with twist ties gently and without damaging the stems. This way, when the pods do expel their seeds, you will catch them all.
If you do not already own a jasmine plant, you can buy jasmine seeds online or at a garden supply store. If you have a neighbor or friend with a jasmine plant, ask for some of the seed pods in the late summer.
Step 3 — Start the Seeds
To start the seeds inside to eventually plant your jasmine in the garden, start your seeds about 6 weeks before your last hard frost. If you plan to keep the jasmine as an indoor plant, start seeds at any time.
In order to make them slightly softer, soak the jasmine seeds in warm water overnight prior to planting.
Plant them into a starting seed mix and cover lightly with soil. Starting mix can be bought at a garden supply store or handmade by combining 2 parts peat moss, 1 part perlite, and 1 part potting mix.
Ideally, seeds should be started in a seed-starting tray, which is shallow enough to keep properly heated and watered. Keep the seeds at 70°F to encourage germination, with 8 to 10 hours of indirect sunlight a day. If you cannot maintain this temperature, use a heating pad underneath the starter tray.
Fill a clean spray bottle with water and mist the seeds daily. Never allow them to dry out, but never soak.
Seeds may be slow to germinate and can take up to one month.
Step 4 — Transplant the Seeds
Once a jasmine seedling has reached 3 inches in height, the plant should be moved to a planter or 1 gallon flower pot using either a mixture of soil and fertilizer or a combination of moss, bark, and fertilizer. 1 part potting soil, 1 part chipped bark, and 1.5 parts perlite or garden compost is a great permanent mix.
Bed the plant down in this and water heavily. Once the jasmine has settled into the pot, ensure that it is watered regularly and does not dry out.
Step 5 — Protect from Mold
Jasmine grown from seedlings should be examined closely to ensure that they do not develop white rot and mold; seedlings grown in this way are vulnerable to a mold that causes the plant to develop black spots and rot away.
To prevent molds and mildews, plant the jasmine in the full sun.
Step 6 — Maintain Your Plants
Start placing the potted jasmine outside when temperatures reach 70°F during the day and 50°F at night. At this time, you can either transplant the jasmine directly into the garden or keep it in a pot.
Jasmine will flower in the mid-summer, roughly six months after germination. Water your jasmine two to three times per week in the hot summer months, making sure to give it a thorough soak. If it is in the ground, it will likely not need to be watered for the rest of the year.