How to propagate fittonia?

This pretty little indoor plant adds a distinctive touch to your home decor. The variety of fittonia is also known as Pink Angel. and is a distinctive plant with dark green leaves which have brightly colored pink veins. Growing Fittonia Albivenis is very easy for beginners, since it doesn’t mind low light.

Where does fittonia albivenis grow naturally?

The plant is a native of Peru. The deeply veined leaves of fittonia albivenis have a trailing habit, which lets them spill over the edges of a pot or basket container.

Since this is a tropical plant and only hardy to zone 11, it is grown in most areas as a houseplant.

Common Names for Fittonia Albivenis

This pretty plant is known by several common names. The most common one is nerve plant and one only has to look at the leaves of the plant to see why. The veins look amazingly like nerves.

Also if you look at a pair of the leaves, you can see where the name Pink Angel comes from. Two other common names for the plant are Mosaic plant and Painted Net Leaf.

Tips for Growing Fittonia Albivenis

This lovely plant is relatively easy to grow. The main consideration for keeping it healthy is to manage the humidity. In order to keep it in good condition, here are some tips for growing Fittonia Pink Angel.

Light Conditions

Nerve plant grows best in low to medium light, though it also thrives in a sunny window if the light is filtered with a sheer curtain. If it gets too much hot sun, even indoors, the leaves may burn, turning brown and crispy.

If you have a North facing window, this is an ideal spot for the plant, since it will get far less light here but it will still be a bright spot.

I have a collection of low light plants on a table near a window that faces north and they do very well here. (See other low light indoor plants here.)


Pink Angel fittonia enjoys even moisture. I like to water my plant when the surface of the soil just starts to dry out. Insert a finger into the soil and if it is dry to about the first knuckle, give it a drink. Don’t over water, though, since the plant does not like wet and soggy soil.

Leaf Color and Flowers

The leaves of fittonia albivenis are green with deep veins that are colored pink. The underside of the leaves are a lighter green color.

Mature leaves of fittonia have a deeper pink color to the veins, but newer growth is lighter in color with a whitish pink color.

The plant does have blooms when it gets just the right conditions but is grown more for the leaves than for the flowers. The blooms are rather insignificant and can be both reddish or white.

They have the shape of spikes and their color makes them blend in with the foliage. It is rare to see a fittonia grown as a houseplant in bloom.

The size of the plant can grow to 12-18 inches or larger.

Humidity Needs

Like many tropical houseplants, the nerve plant loves humidity. It will benefit from a weekly spray with a plant mister. It is also the perfect choice for growing in terrariums where the level of humidity is naturally high.

Temperature Requirements

Be sure that the temperature of the room where you are growing fittonia albivenis is kept around 60 º F or higher. This means keeping it away from drafty windows when the temperatures outside are cold.

The plant likes it best around 70 degrees and will not do well in rooms that are hotter than 80 degrees.

Fertilizing nerve plant

Fittonia albivenis grows best if it is fertilized monthly with a general all purpose house plant fertilizer during the growing season. (You can also make your own plant fertilizer with house hold items.)

The winter months are a slow growing time for most houseplants, so hold off on fertilizing at this time.

Containers for Nerve Plant

This plant add a pretty decorative touch to any spot where you place it indoors. It looks pretty in hanging baskets, makes a nice table plant and also is the prefect choice for terrariums.

Grow this pink variegated variety of fittonia in plant pots that showcase the color of the leaves. I chose a neon green outer pot that highlights the under side of the leaves but it would also look really pretty in a bright pink pot.

Varieties of Fittonia

There are several color varieties of fittonia. It belongs to the herbaceous perennial Acanthus family. In addition to the pink veined type shown here, there is also a deep red veined plant,(Fittonia pearcei) as well as one with deep white veins. (Fittonia verschaffeltii argyroneura)

All forms of the plant like similar growing conditions. For a larger variety of the plant, try growing fittonia gigantea, which can grow to 24 inches and has purple stems with dark green leaves and deep red veins.

There is quite a bit of variation in the veins and leaf colors of fittonia plants from pure white to deep crimson.

Propagation of Fittonia Albivenis

Get more plants for free by taking stem cuttings of pink angel fittonia. Dip the ends of the stems in a rooting powder and insert them in a well draining seed starting medium.

When the stems have developed roots, transfer to normal potting soil. Cuttings are best done in late spring or early summer when the growing season is at its prime.

Growing fittonia albivenis is generally quite easy. As long as you don’t over water the plant or let it dry out, it does fairly well. One pest that seems to find it attractive is the mealy bug, which loves the plants soft stems and leaves.

If you are looking for a pretty table plant or perfect terrarium plant, try growing Fittonia Pink Angel. You’ll be glad you did!

Would you like a reminder of these tips for growing fittonia albivenis? Just pin this image to one of your gardening boards on Pinterest so that you can easily find it later.

Admin note: This post first appeared on the blog in February of 2018. I have updated the post to add new photos, a printable care card and a video for you to enjoy.

Active Time 30 minutes Total Time 30 minutes Difficulty moderate Estimated Cost $5-$10


  • 1 Fittonia plant
  • Decorative pot
  • Plant mister
  • Rooting Powder


  1. Sunlight: Bright filtered light. A North facing window is best.
  2. Watering: Add more water when the soil is dry about 1 inch down.
  3. Soil: Well draining potting soil.
  4. Humidity: The pant needs humidity. Place on a pebble tray with water or mist weekly.
  5. Temperature: Keep at 60 degrees F or higher.
  6. Fertilizing: Fertilize monthly during the growing season. Hold off in the winter when the plant is more dormant.
  7. Propagation: Stem cuttings (under a plastic dome is best for humidity needs) Rooting powder helps to promote root growth.

Disclosure of Material Connection: Some of the links in the post above are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive a small commission from the sale, but the price is the same for you. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255: “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.”

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Wilting Indoor Plants

Why is the Houseplant Wilting?

There are three common causes of indoor houseplants wilting.

  1. Too little water; the roots have dried and the plant loses turgor (water pressure within the plant) as water evaporates from the leaves.
  2. Too much water; overwatering and waterlogged soil can leave the roots unable to get oxygen; without oxygen, the roots lose their ability to function properly and uptake water and nutrients. The plant then loses turgor and wilts.
  3. Root Rot; often as a result of overwatering (2) the roots of plants become infected with root rot disease so that even when the overwatering is corrected the infected and damaged roots are unable to function normally and uptake water. The plant continues to lose turgor and wilts.
    Symptoms of root rot include:
    1. The plant slowly wilting,
    2. Leaves turning yellow,
    3. Black mushy roots – remove the plant from the soil and feel the roots. The roots affected by root rot will look black and will feel mushy.
    4. Roots breaking away easily – affected roots may fall off the plant when you touch them. Healthy roots may be black or pale, but they will feel firm and pliable.

How to Solve the Problem and Save Your Plants

Identify which of the three causes has made your plant wilt.

  1. If the soil surface is dry and the plant has not been watered recently give it water. Use the Gro-Sure Houseplant Watering Indicator to tell you when to water and when not to water. If the root ball has become very dry it may become water repellent and difficult to wet it fully again by normal watering from above. In such a case, where possible, set the pot in a bucket or tray of water and let the root ball absorb water from underneath for several hours. Then remove it from the bucket/tray and let it drain before putting it back in position.
    If the tips and/or edges of leaves are going brown this suggests the humidity in the room is too low (the room is too dry). In such a case mist the leaves regularly with water, Gro-Sure Houseplant Mist’n’Feed or Orchid Mist’n’Feed.
  2. If the soil is wet and you suspect the plant has been over-watered, ensure the drain holes in the bottom of the pot are clear and let any excess water drain into a sink. If you can easily remove the plant and its root ball from the pot this will help drain the root ball. Do not leave it out so long as to let the root ball dry out. Once the pot and root ball have drained fully replace it and make sure the pot is placed on a surface or tray that allows excess water to drain away if it is over-watered again.
    Do not water the plant until the soil surface is dry. Many plants such as peace lilies and cyclamen are best watered only when they begin to wilt from lack of water.
    The Gro-Sure Houseplant Watering Indicator takes all the guesswork out of watering; water when it shows red and don’t water if it shows blue.
  3. If you suspect root rot, remove the plant from the pot and check the roots, if they are black, mushy and falling away they are badly affected and need cleaning and surgery (see a).
    If you cannot easily remove the plant from the pot or the roots are still firm and do not seem heavily infected, you can try to cure them with root rot ‘medicine’ (see b).
    1. Heavy root rot infection:
      • Gently wash the soil off the roots under a cold tap.
      • Use a clean, sharp pair of scissors/secateurs to cut away all the remaining affected roots.
      • If you have to remove more than 1/3 of the roots then clean the scissors/secateurs with dilute bleach or methylated spirit and prune the top of the plant to remove 1/3 to ½ of the leaves.
      • Make up a solution of Kiwicare PLANThealth Root Protect Aliette and lightly spray the leaves (you may want to take the plant outdoors to do this or protect areas around the plant indoors).
      • Dip the roots in the remaining solution.
      • Re-pot the plant in fresh potting mix and water well with the remaining PLANThealth Root Protect Aliette solution.
      • Leave to drain fully and then replace the plant in an ideal position regarding heat and light, based on the type of plant.
      • Do not water the plant until the soil surface is dry.
    2. Light root infection (or where the plant cannot be lifted out of the pot):
      • Ensure the root and pot has been drained of any excess water. If possible leave the pot and root ball dry out for several days; the soil surface should feel completely dry.
      • Make up a solution of Kiwicare PLANThealth Root Protect Aliette and lightly spray the leaves (you may want to take the plant outdoors to do this or protect areas around the plant indoors).
      • Put the remaining solution of PLANThealth Root Protect Aliette in a bucket or tray large enough to fit the plant pot.
      • Place the pot in the bucket/tray and leave to allow the solution to soak up into the root ball.
      • When the pot has stopped absorbing the PLANThealth Root Protect Aliette solution take the pot out and let it drain.
      • Then replace the plant in an ideal position regarding heat and light, based on the type of plant.
      • Do not water the plant until the soil surface is dry.
  4. Don’t forget to give your houseplants some fertiliser. Gro-Sure Houseplant Pump’n’Feed, Droplet Feeder, Orchid Pump’n’Feed and Cacti and Succulent Pump’n’Feed make feeding your houseplants the appropriate nutrients easy.

For ongoing care of your indoor plants, you may consider the use of moisture indicators which will tell you when the soil is too dry or too wet.

For more on houseplant care see How to Make Your Houseplant Last

David Brittain

Overwatering vs Underwatering Marijuana: How can I tell if my droopy cannabis plant is over or under-watered?

by Nebula Haze

A common question for new cannabis growers is how to tell if your drooping cannabis seedling is over or under-watered. It’s common for new growers to overwater their weed, but that doesn’t mean that underwatering doesn’t happen too. Never fear, once you get a feel for it, it’s easy to tell how often you should be feeding your plant and what is the true cause of your drooping.

If your marijuana shows signs of drooping in normal temperatures, it almost always means you’re over or under-watering your plants, either by watering too often, or by giving too much water at a time when the plant is too young to drink it all.

How often should I be watering my cannabis plants?

Water your marijuana when the top of the growing medium starts feeling dry up to your first knuckle. You should stick your finger 1-2″ into the soil. Wait if it’s damp, but water your plant once it feels dry.

  • Soil dries in 1 day or less? Give More Water at a Time (if that doesn’t work, you may need to transplant to a bigger pot)
  • Soil takes more than 3 days to dry? Give Less Water at a Time

Learn everything you need to know about watering your plants!

An over watered cannabis plant will have leaves that are full of water, so the leaves will be firm to the touch and generally curling down (even from the stem of the leaf) almost as if it has too much water weight to hold the leaf out straight.

An under watered cannabis plant will have leaves that are brittle, limp, and lifeless. They will need to be watered every day just to keep them wet. The leaves will seem to be drooping but won’t appear as rounded and full as an over watered cannabis plant.

Leaves feel papery and thin on an underwatered plant, growing medium is dry

If it gets worse….

Now that you’ve (hopefully) got an idea about whether it’s over watering or underwatering, what’s the cure?

Complete Over-Watering Tutorial

Complete Under-Watering Tutorial

Or continue reading….

Over-Watering vs Under-Watering Remedies


Symptoms: seedling is droopy, growing medium is moist, damping off

Most common causes:

  • Big Pot, Small Seeding
  • Pot is Too Small
  • Bad Drainage
  • Watering Too Often

When a cannabis plant is “overwatered” it has less to do with the water and more to do with oxygen. Plants can even grow directly in water (hydroponics) but in order to thrive, roots need oxygen. In hydroponics, that’s accomplished by dissolving oxygen into the water. But when plants are grown in a container, too much water = not enough oxygen.

When a plant’s roots are sitting in water, they quickly use up all the oxygen until the growing medium starts to dry out. Without enough oxygen at the roots, the plant will start showing symptoms of oxygen deprivation. Luckily, there are many steps you can take to prevent overwatering your cannabis plants.

While overwatering can display many different symptoms, most overwatered cannabis plants look droopy, like this…

Despite what seems like an obvious cause, several different scenraios can end in overwatering. Here are some of the most common trouble-makers:

Big Pot, Small Seedling

When you have a small plant in a very big pot, it’s easy to overwater because the roots aren’t drinking much yet, and the big container takes a long time to dry out.

Notice how the plants in smaller containers have grown more than the plant that was put in a big container as a seedling. It’s common for plants in too-big containers to grow a little slowly at first.

How to fix:

  • (Recommended) Start seedlings in smaller container until they’re growing vigorously, then transfer to a larger container
  • If seedling is already in a big container, there’s still hope! When watering, give just a little water at a time in a small circle around the seedling. Then allow the top inch of your medium to mostly dry before watering again. Once the plant is growing vigorously, start watering as normal (with extra runoff water coming out the bottom every time)

These small cannabis plants (below) were put in big pots, and were given enough water to support a much larger plant. The plants couldn’t drink all the water that was given to them and as a result, their roots weren’t able to get the oxygen they needed and started “drowning.” Once the roots are out of commission, the leaves start drooping.

One way to prevent this from happening is to make sure your plants are in an appropriately sized container for each stage of their life; this is done with transplanting.

First, you need to get a general idea of the final container size which will be based on how big you want your plants to grow. The less often you transplant, the bigger the final size pot you’ll need because the roots will tend to grow out and cover the whole container if left too long. You can help avoid problems with roots getting rootbound by using a fabric pot (also known as a “Smart Pot”) or an air pot.

Final Container for Desired Plant Size – General guide
(the less often you transplant your plants, the bigger final size you’ll need)

12″ ~ 2-3 gallon container

24″ ~ 3-5 gallon container

36″ ~ 5-7 gallon container

48″ ~ 6-10 gallon container

60″ ~ 8-10+ gallon container

But what size pot should you use for your seedlings?

For fastest growth rates, it’s better to plant young seedlings or clones in a very small container, like a disposable plastic solo cup.

For new seedlings and clones, use a small container if possible

Easy transplant guide – some popular transplant guideline:

  • Solo cup -> 1 gal -> 3 gal
  • Solo cup -> 1 gal -> 5 gal
  • Solo cup -> 2 gal -> 5 gal
  • Solo cup -> 1.5 gal -> 3 gal -> 5+ gal

There is no perfect transplant guide, but the one above should give you a general idea of where to start.

Why don’t you want to go from a solo cup to a 5 gallon pot? Or why not just start in a 5 gallon pot?

Young plants won’t be growing very fast yet, so they also won’t be using much water. When you completely saturate a big container that slow speed means that the plant won’t be able to drink all the water. Since so much of the water is contained in the middle without access to air, it won’t be able to dry out by evaporation. This means you’re left with a huge container full of wet potting mix.

The young cannabis plant roots will quickly use up all the available oxygen that’s been dissolved in the water, and then the roots will sit in water until the water slowly evaporates on its own. Some containers such as smart pots and air pots allow air in from the sides, which can help dry the growing medium faster, but it’s better to use proper technique from the beginning.

Overpotting Cannabis

Planting in too big a container is sometimes called “overpotting.” It’s possible to get around this with special watering techniques (for example by giving plants just a little bit of water until they start “growing into” their containers) but starting plants in small containers and transplanting as needed can be a more straightforward way for some growers. Overpotting plants is also a waste of growing medium and nutrients, especially if the plants never get big enough to fully use their containers.


This OG Tahoe Kush seedling was overpotted, though this can be overcome by the grower just giving a little bit of water at a time until the plant starts growing vigorously. At that point, the grower can provide more and more water until they’re finally watering normally.

More information about container size and transplanting here:

Small Pot, Big Seedling

While using a too-large container can cause problems for seedlings, so can too-small of a container.

Seedlings are happy in a small container like a solo cup for a while, but as they get bigger, their roots need more room. The roots tend to wrap around the outsides of the container, encasing the middle part so that water can’t get out. This is known as the plant being “root bound.”

If the seedling isn’t transferred to a bigger container in time, it can cause symptoms of overwatering, nutrient deficiencies, wilting, and sometimes very strange and unpredictable symptoms.

These plants were left in a too-small container for too long. Because they were drinking so fast, the grower watered them frequently – too frequently! This combination of being root bound and overwatering caused the plants to suffer.

A too small container, combined with overwatering – these conditions can cause some strange symptoms that often look like a nutrient deficiency

Pink leaves, red discoloration, rusty spots and edges… While it make look like these cannabis seedlings are experiencing nutrient deficiencies, all these symptoms are actually caused by a combination of overwatering plus a too-small pot.

When the roots aren’t happy, the plant isn’t able to uptake nutrients properly and cannabis seedlings can show a wide variety of strange problems.

It’s usually not a good sign when cannabis leaves start “crossing their fingers” like this (instead of having all the leaf tips spread out). While this can happen naturally every once in a while, you know for sure that you’re having a problem if the crossed fingers are combined with discoloration of the leaves. Also notice how the stems are bright red/pink.

The following cannabis plant was also overwatered and had no drainage. Notice how dark the soil is and the green algae growing all along the top of the soil – these are more signs the plant has been overwatered for quite a while. You should never water your plant when the soil on top is still wet, and if you notice lots of algae growing on top of your soil, it may be a sign that you’re overwatering on a regular basis. Leaving the top of the soil wet is also the number one reason growers get fungus gnats.

No Drainage (or poor drainage)

Cannabis roots need oxygen to thrive, and therefore they will have trouble if the roots are “drowned.” If water cannot run out the bottom of the container, it will pool at the roots, which causes overwatered plants.

How to fix:

  • Always start with a good growing medium that drains well – never use a clay based soil which holds onto way too much water. A high quality potting mix (especially mixed with some perlite) provides great drainage
  • Start with a smaller container to reduce the chances of overwatering seedlings
  • Make sure there are plenty of drainage holes to let water out the bottom of the container
  • If water runs through growing medium slowly, you can mix perlite into the potting mix to increase oxygen and quicken drainage
  • Water less often and less at a time until plant is drinking more
  • Get a container that helps the growing medium dry out from the sides (such as “Smart Pots” – highly recommended; or air pots).
  • Don’t allow plants to sit in a tray that has been collecting runoff water

This seedling started “damping off” (dying) due to terrible drainage from bad soil. Never use soil that looks like it contains clay!

Seedling is “damping off” due to bad soil with no drainage

Here’s another example of a seedling damping off due to too much water (drowning roots), whis time combined with not enough light. After a few days of these conditions, this seedling just fell over and started dying.

The following plant was grown in an unsuitable growing medium with no drainage and started showing signs of overwatering. Always start with a quality potting mix that has good drainage, and never allow the top of your growing medium to look this wet!

This “soil” is more like mud. The plant roots are drowning from lack of oxygen, causing severe wilting.

Watering too often

While oxygen is available to the roots immediately after watering, the roots use up all the oxygen quickly if they are sitting in water. If all the oxygen is gone, roots are not able to get what they need to help power growth, at least not until the growing medium begins to dry out and create new air spaces in the growing medium.

Keep roots happy for fast-growing plants

Each air spot in the potting mix provides roots with precious oxygen, but if there’s no air spots, roots start to “drown.” By watering seedlings less often, growers can ensure that roots are getting access to plenty of oxygen at all times.

Of course you should never allow roots to actually dry out – roots need moisture at all times. But for new growers who want to do everything possible for their new seedlings, it can seem like more water = better. Unfortunately, this isn’t true.

Roots work best when they get as much oxygen as possible while also staying completely moist at all times.

How to Fix:

  • Wait until top inch is dry. Make sure that the top bit of potting mix has started to dry before you water seedlings again. Sometimes it can take a few days, depending on your growing medium, your environment and how much water you provided during the last watering.
  • Increase the number of air pockets in the growing medium by mixing in a “lighter” amendment like perlite to the potting mix. Perlite will allow the mix to hold onto more oxygen when mixed with heavy soil. Many cannabis soil growers will mix 30-40% perlite into their potting mix to make sure there’s lots of drainage and plenty of air available for the roots.
  • Provide air from the sides. Transplant to a container which allows air in from the sides like fabric pots (“Smart Pots” – highly recommended) or air pots.
  • Start in a smaller container until plant gets bigger so there’s less water in the potting mix that needs to dry. You’ll be able to water your plants more often while ensuring they get plenty of oxygen.
  • Water less when it’s cold. Plant processes tend to slow down when temps get cooler. This means that plants usually need water less often than normal after a cold snap.

This plant went through a few cool days but the grower continued to water as normal. As a result, the plants roots were surrounded by too much water and the plant started showing signs of overwatering.

The plant was watered the right amount each time, but too often. As a result, it shows some slight drooping. While this won’t kill the plant, the plant will definitely grow faster when the mix is allowed to dry out a bit so the roots are getting plenty of oxygen.

Underwatering – seedling is droopy, wilting, or not growing properly, and the growing medium around the seedling isn’t moist

While overwatering is the most common seedling symptom, underwatering is also a problem, especially for those who have been warned to avoid giving too much water.

It can be confusing because the symptoms often look similar to each other, which is why it’s important to learn good watering practices.

This seedling was underwatered – the grower had been warned many times to avoid overwatering, and went too far in the other direction. Notice that the growing medium looks bone dry.

It’s crucially important to make sure that plant roots have access to moisture at all times. Plants are constantly losing water through their leaves (called “transpiration”) and this is actually how plants get water up from the roots. As the plants lose water from the leaves, it pulls water up from the ground like a straw.

When there’s not enough water at the roots, many plant processes cease to function. If roots actually dry out, the dried shoots die.

Here’s another example of a young cannabis plant that is underwatered, even in a big container (where the problem is usually overwatering). Notice how this cannabis seedling is basically just wilting and falling over, while the potting mix looks completely dry.

Seedlings suffer greatly from being underwatered, even more so than from overwatering. Often the grower will actually be able to see how dry the growing medium is. A big sign that the plant is being under-watered is when you can see the soil separating from the container. In this case, you can see the starter cube separating from the soil because it’s so dry.

Underwatering is bad on it’s own, but it causes the most problems when young cannabis seedlings are also stressed by too high levels of nutrients, or when started in a “hot” (nutrient-enriched) soil.

When underwatering is combined with too much nutrients, seedlings often become dark green and stunted, with twisted and discolored new growth.

The solution for this (underwatering + high levels of nutrients) is simply to give the plants more water so they can establish roots and start growing again. Most plants will be able to grow out of this problem once they get enough water to start growing. While it’s not always the best idea to start out with a hot soil mix, most seedlings will easily grow into it if given a good growing environment.

This cannabis seedling is dark because it was underwatered in a “hot” soil mix, but after watering the plant as normal for a week or two, the plant started growing vigorously

Check Out 3 More Common Cannabis Seedling Problems!

How To Fix Wilting and Drooping Leaves On Cannabis Plants

Wilting and drooping leaves on a marijuana plant are usually a result of too much or too little water arriving in the roots. For the plant to continue growing normally, the problem has to be fixed right away, otherwise plant growth can be compromised. To learn how to fix a marijuana plant that has begun wilting or drooping, read this article.

A cannabis plant with wilting or drooping leaves is quite a sad looking one, and it’s important to keep your plants looking happy. A case of wilting cannabis leaves can happen to any grower and there are ways out of the situation if you find yourself in it. These two problems are generally caused by overwatering or underwatering your plant and are easily avoidable if you pay close attention.

So new growers should have no fear. Wilting cannabis leaves are not the end of your marijuana garden, but if you want to ensure a good yield, you should attend to the problem straight away.

The difference between drooping and wilting cannabis leaves

It’s important that you don’t confuse wilting cannabis leaves with drooping leaves, because they have completely opposite causes. Wilting is what has happened to your leaves when they have begun to curl at the tips. The tell tale sign that your leaves are wilting is that they have also started turning yellow on the tips that are curling under. On the other hand, drooping is distinguished by the droopiness of the entire leaf, rather than just the tips. When your plant is drooping, you will not see yellow tips on the leaves. Drooping leaves are also firmer than wilting leaves, which just look tired and lifeless.

Before you go on trying to fix your cannabis plant, it’s important to know whether your plant is wilting or drooping. The action you take to rectify this will all depend on this factor, so observe carefully.

Drooping leaves v.s. wilting leaves

Overwatering marijuana plants

Overwatering cannabis plants is a common mistake among growers, and it results in drooping leaves. However, overwatering has not occurred as a result of using too much water, but rather that the plant has been watered too often or it is being grown in a pot without appropriate drainage. In this scenario, the problem is actually at the roots, where they begin to rot. Too much water stored at the roots can impede the access of oxygen within the soil to the plant, causing rot and drooping.

This problem can also be caused by the kind of pot and potting mix used. It is essential that there is proper drainage in the pot you are using to grow marijuana and the same should apply to your potting mix. Actually, it is common to let marijuana plants dry out a little bit between waters, and drooping is a clear sign that this hasn’t happened.

If drooping has occurred to your marijuana leaves, lift up the pot and make sure that water is draining out from the bottom. If not, you might have to move your potting mix around a little to ensure that it is not too tightly packed in there, disallowing the flow of water. You don’t need to lower the amount of water you are giving it, but rather the frequency of waterings needs to drop. You will know when your plants need watering by the first couple of inches of soil. When they are completely dry, it’s time to water it again. However, while the soil is still dark and moist, the plant does not need more watering.

Addressing this issue quickly is best, and it will usually happen overnight. When your plant is over watered, it becomes much more vulnerable to other diseases, so it is important to get your roots back into shape quickly.

Underwatering your cannabis plant

Underwatering your marijuana plant is usually the reason that the leaves begin to wilt. Wilting cannabis leaves look much sadder than drooping leaves, have curled at the ends and have begun to turn yellow. In fact, they look lifeless and it can make a grower completely freak out. Wilting means that the roots of your plants are bone dry. They will grow much slower under this condition; so the sooner this is fixed, also the better.

At this stage, you should consider watering your plant more often, and at the beginning perhaps giving it a little bit of extra water to compensate. Be careful not to throw the plant off balance again by continuing to overwater it. Don’t mix any of this water with fertilizer, as it won’t assist with the problem of wilting. You just need to ensure that the water is pH balanced, and use it purely for the purpose of rehydrating your plant. After some time they will start to look happy again and you can go back to using your nutrient-rich water.

Hydroponic growers

For those that are growing hydroponically, it is basically impossible to be underwatering. However, some hydroponic grow systems are still subject to root problems which could be the cause of drooping. It is probably a sign that the roots have begun to rot and are disallowing oxygen into the roots. This can be solved with an air pump to provide the water with more oxygen.

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