- Climbing hydrangea
- The Secret Behind Martha’s Gorgeous Climbing Hydrangeas
- Climbing the Walls
- Grown on Stone
- White Flowers Of Visual Value
- Non-Insect Plant
- Propagation by Seed
- Climbing Hydrangea Plant – Tips On How To Grow a Climbing Hydrangea
- Info on Climbing Hydrangeas
- How to Care for Climbing Hydrangea
- How to Grow a Climbing Hydrangea as a Shrub
- Caring For Climbing Hydrangea
- How to Propagate Flowering Hydrangea Vine
- Hydrangea Anomala Petiolaris Pests and Disease Problems
- Suggested Uses For Hydrangea Vines
- Climbing Hydrangeas
- Climbing Hydrangea Care
- Pruning Climbing Hydrangeas
- Climbing Hydrangea Vine
- Let’s Hear It for Hardy Hydrangeas!
Size and Method of Climbing
A true clinging vine that can grow 30 to 80 feet long. Clinging vines attach themselves directly to a surface by means of holdfasts (adhesive discs) or by small aerial roots. This type of vine grows best on a flat surface, such as stone, masonry walls and wood.
Needs moist, well-drained soil. Water in dry periods.
Best flowering occurs in full sun but will grow in full shade.
Blooms on old wood. Buds can be damaged by late frosts.
Little pruning required, but prune in late winter to control size.
A true vine, clinging to rough surfaces by root-like fast holds. Can attach to buildings, fences and arbors or spread as a ground cover.
Growth is slow in the first 3 to 5 years, but picks up speed once roots are established.
Disease, pests and problems
No serious problems.
Native geographic location and habitat
Native to Japan, Korea and Siberia.
Bark color and texture
Stems are dark cinnamon brown with exfoliating bark that splits and peels.
Instead of lying flat, the stems develops 3-dimensional branchlets that stick out from the structure it is growing on.
Simple, opposite, broadly oval leaves; 2 to 4 inches long with toothed margins.
Leaves are glossy, dark green in summer, hang on well into fall before changing to a clear yellow.
Large, 6 to 8 inch fragrant, lacecap-type clusters of white flowers in late June to early July.
New plants may take several years to produce flowers.
The actual fruit (a dry capsule) is not ornamentally important, but the remains of the dry flower heads that surround them do provide winter interest.
Cultivars and their differences
Firefly climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris ‘Firefly’): Cultivar with variegated leaves.
Miranda climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris ‘Miranda’): Variegated form that features serrate, heart-shaped, dark green leaves with yellow margins (can revert to green in summer heat); very little fall color.
The Secret Behind Martha’s Gorgeous Climbing Hydrangeas
At the property entrance, there is a large garden shaded by towering spruces, old maples, and several 20-foot-tall “stumps” of hurricane-damaged spruces. Each trunk is covered in a dense green vine known as climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris).
First it sleeps, then it creeps, then it leaps.” This old gardeners’ saying fits the climbing hydrangea perfectly. And gardeners take heed, because this excellent vine, which can add tremendous beauty and lushness to your property, can become an addictive feature in the landscape. It should be used carefully — not overly lavishly — because once established (which takes two to three years), a single vine covers a very large area! I first saw climbing hydrangeas at Frank Cabot’s wonderful Stonecrop, in Cold Spring, New York, now a public garden. Verdant, massive vines climbed up many of the giant trees, which looked like a new species because their trunks were completely covered with green leaves and white flowers. I asked Frank about them, and the propriety of growing such large species on and up trees. He told me they were appropriate, and did not hurt the growth nor the health of large trees as long as the vines didn’t weigh down the higher, smaller branches.
I planted my first climbing hydrangeas on my farm to cover the trunks of the large sugar maples and spruce trees growing near the houses. In several years the trunks were totally concealed, and they now look like what I envision the woodland did in William Henry Hudson’s novel “Green Mansions”. Five years ago, after a hurricane cleared off the tops of six enormous spruces by the entrance to my property, it occurred to me during cleanup that these “stumps” would be ideal climbing stakes. We planted one vine at the base of each. Today, due to the lush growth of the vines, the stumps are six to seven feet wide and 20 feet high. All year long they just look like huge shrubs.
The vines are most beautiful in bloom during the early summer. By autumn, the leaves turn a vibrant yellow, another lovely landscape enhancement. They also have great winter color once the foliage has fallen. The exfoliating bark is a rich brownish-red hue, and oftentimes the flowers dry on the vines, adding an ethereal beauty.
Climbing hydrangeas love rich soil and do well in full sun, partial shade, and even deep shade. Because they are hardy growers with strong aerial rootlets that cling to all surfaces, you can plant them on sturdy structures, like stone or brick walls, chimneys, and houses; avoid wooden shingles and clapboard, which can be damaged by these rootlets or “holdfasts.” Be prepared to prune the vines annually to keep them off windows and frames, and even from spreading like a ground cover in the garden. Their enthusiasm to grow knows no bounds.
Climbing the Walls
Image zoom Often growing 40 to 60 feet high, climbing hydrangeas cling well to walls, trellises, and even chimneys — I have inserted screw eyes and steel-wire trellising to help guide the vines up mine. José Picayo Image zoom Strong vertical growers with long lateral branches, they bloom prolifically over four to eight weeks, with five-inch white or pink lace-cap-like flowers. José Picayo
Summary: The climbing hydrangea has value in the landscape as a sturdy, ornamental clinging vine, slow to start, but once established firmly in the soil, becomes a vigorous grower.
The climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris) has been growing in America since 1865, however it was not that long ago it was a rare find in the home garden.
Fortunately, gardeners have gradually begun to appreciate its value as a sturdy, ornamental clinging vine, and nurserymen across the country have propagating them. It is true, this climbing hydrangea vine is slow to start growth when young, but given a few years to establish itself firmly in the soil, it soon becomes a vigorous grower.
In the forests of its native Japan, it grows to the tops of 80-foot trees but in cultivation can easily be restrained to a much lower height. Unusual as vines go, with its profuse white flowers borne in June, lustrous green, heart-shaped leaves and enthusiasm for cool shade, it is a splendid specimen for planting on home grounds where space and facilities permit. It also boasts winter beauty, for although deciduous, it drops its leaves to reveal lovely, reddish, shredding bark. Therefore, never cut this vine to the ground in fall, as you may well do with bittersweet or five leaf akebia.
Climbing hydrangea is perfectly hardy as far north as Boston, Cleveland, Detroit, Chicago and the Pacific Northwest. It does equally well down to the mid-South, but in areas subject to long, hot summer droughts, it does not succeed.
Grown on Stone
Because this plant climbs by means of small rootlike holdfasts, it should never be grown on a wooden wall of any kind. But on stone walls, old fences, piles of rock or big tree trunks, it makes itself completely at home and there is valued as one of the best clinging vines. Trees ideally suited to it are ones like the American elm, whose trunk is unencumbered by limbs for some distance from the ground.
Twining vines can quickly strangle and eventually kill limbs or even trunks of many trees, but the climbing hydrangea, given a sturdy trunk with few branches (and good soil in which to grow), climbs the trunk without permanently injuring the tree in any way. However, if you plant this vine at the base of an elm, remember that the elm’s feeding roots are very close to the soil surface and that it’s necessary to keep these roots away from the young vine until it becomes established and can fend for itself. Because tree trunks themselves are beautiful, it’s certainly not advisable to cover all your trees with vines. However, on some properties one tree trunk might be covered with excellent pictorial effect.
White Flowers Of Visual Value
The white flowers, wherein lies the plant’s chief ornamental value, grow in flat heads measuring 6 to 10 inches across, They are profusely borne on lateral branches sometimes 3 feet away from the tree or wall and are evenly distributed over the entire vine from top to bottom. The small flowers in the center of the cluster are the fertile ones, and remind one of Queen Anne’s lace. The flowers on the perimeter are the sterile blooms. Large and prominent, they set off the entire cluster.
The beautiful leaves, lustrous green and heart-shaped (as already noted), are finely serrate along the margins. This leaf type, incidentally, is one of the major points of difference between this plant and the inferior Schizophragma hydrangeoides, whose leaves are neither lustrous nor heart-shaped and whose leaf margins are coarsely dentate. The two plants differ also in the number of sepals in the sterile flowers. The hydrangea blooms have three to six, schizophragma only one.
Fortunately, the climbing hydrangea is one of those plants which insects and diseases do not attack.
To Thomas Hogg, an American consul in Japan, goes the credit for first observing the merits of the climbing hydrangea and sending the vine to America – to the Old Parson’s Nursery on Long Island – in 1865. But because there was no wide demand in the US for this unknown plant, this first introduction was almost forgotten until the Arnold Arboretum received seeds from Japan in 1876 and later broadcast reported of its excellence.
Propagation by Seed
Propagation of the climbing hydrangea is best done by seed. These are very fine, ripening in fall, and should be collected just when the small capsules begin to crack open for the seeds are easily scattered by wind.
When a small climbing hydrangea vine is first planted, give it plenty of good loam and do not let it dry out in summer. It may be necessary at first to attach the runners to the supporting wall or tree trunk, but within a few years the plant will soon he able to take care of itself. Growth may be slow the first year or so, but if planted well, in sun or shade, it will develop into one of the most beautiful vines on the home grounds.
Climbing Hydrangea Plant – Tips On How To Grow a Climbing Hydrangea
Climbing hydrangeas feature large, fragrant clusters of white flowers that bloom in late spring and summer against a backdrop of dark green, heart-shaped foliage. These massive vines readily climb columns, trees, and other supporting structures. A climbing hydrangea plant grows 30 to 80 feet (9-24 m.) tall, but it tolerates pruning to shorter heights. You can also grow it as a shrub.
Info on Climbing Hydrangeas
Climbing hydrangeas (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris) are large, heavy vines that need substantial support. A climbing hydrangea plant clings to the supporting structure by two methods — twining vines that wrap themselves around the structure, and aerial roots that grow along the main stem cling to vertical surfaces.
The flower clusters consist of a central mass of tiny, fertile flowers surrounded by a ring of larger, infertile flowers. You can leave drying flower clusters on the vine after they bloom, and they will keep their shape and add interest, even after the foliage begins to fall. The fertile flowers may also produce seed pods for propagating, if desired.
How to Care for Climbing Hydrangea
Growing climbing hydrangeas is easy. The plants are hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 7. Climbing hydrangeas need a rich, moist soil that is well-drained. If your soil needs improvement, dig in a generous amount of compost before planting.
The vine grows well in full sun or partial shade. In areas with hot summers, provide some afternoon shade. When growing climbing hydrangeas against a wall, choose a northern or eastern exposure.
How to care for climbing hydrangea isn’t difficult either. Water the vine regularly to keep the soil moist. A layer of mulch around the base of the plant will help the soil retain moisture and help keep weeds at bay.
Feed the plant in late winter or early spring, just before new leaves begin to bud and again in summer when the flowers bloom. Use compost or a slow-release fertilizer.
Prune the climbing hydrangea plant in late spring or early summer to remove dead, diseased or damaged branches. Remove crossed branches that may rub against each other; rubbing creates an entry point for insects and disease.
How to Grow a Climbing Hydrangea as a Shrub
Without a supporting structure, climbing hydrangea plants form a mounding, arching shrub that grows to a height of 3 to 4 feet (.9-1.2 meters). It is slow to become established, but later spreads at a rapid pace.
The aerial rootlets that grow along the main stem take root wherever they make contact with the soil, and this potential to spread makes a climbing hydrangea plant an excellent choice as a ground cover for a large area.
The climbing Hydrangea is a woody, vine species of hydrangea belonging to the Hydrangeaceae family. The plant is native to Japan, Siberia, and the Korean peninsula.
This plant has two plant types or cultivators you’ll find at the garden center – firefly climbing hydrangea and Miranda climbing hydrangea.
The former has variegated leaves while the latter has leaves that are shaped like hearts.
Climbing hydrangeas are popular plants because of the beauty they add to any landscape especially in the winter interest provided with their exfoliating bark and easy-to-care-for nature.
The plant has several synonyms:
- Hydrangea petiolaris (hy-DRAN-jee-uh pet-ee-oh-LAIR-iss)
- Hydrangea anomala ssp. petiolaris
- Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
Caring For Climbing Hydrangea
Hydrangea anomala is related to the H. macrophylla the Garden Hydrangea. However, it’s climbing growth habit puts anomala in a class of its own.
Size and Growth
This plant is characterized by dark bark that has little branchlets growing out from the sides of the structure with oval leaves about 2” to 4” long with small toothed edges.
The green leaves change color throughout the season beginning with dark green foliage and morphing into a lighter yellow as the fall approaches.
Climbing hydrangeas have a slow growth rate for the initial three to five years but once established, can pick up speed.
It has a vine-like growth pattern and can grow up to about 30’ to 50’ feet tall when fully mature with a width of about 5’ to 6’ feet.
Young plants make excellent potted patio specimens. Plants growing in containers are easily maintained to heights of 8′ or 9′ feet, even after many years.
This plant is hardy to grow in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 7.
Needs Help To Climb
With proper support, Hydrangea petiolaris forms clinging aerial rootlets like ivy does along its stems.
However, when young it is important to train the stems early to initially fasten the plant to the supporting structure.
Give plants a sturdy trellis, tie to a wall or other a strong support to grow on. An east or west facing wall is a good choice.
Flower Color and Fragrance
Climbing Hydrangea need some age (several years old) before flowering.
Sooner or later, these plants adorn itself with large flower heads of lightly fragranced white flower clusters up to 8′ inches in size, usually appearing in early summer.
These clusters of white flowers consist of two types of flowers which together form what is called the “lacecap” effect.
Around the cluster edge is large, conspicuous but infertile flowers with showy white sepals designed to attract insects.
In the middle of the cluster are the actual greenish white and rather inconspicuous fertile flowers.
In the wild, after fertilization, the flowers form seed capsules with brown wings.
Light and Temperature
Unlike most flowering vines, climbing hydrangeas can tolerate partial shade. However, they will flourish best when planted in full sun.
More light usually means better blooms. A good six hours of direct sunlight is ideal.
However, they will also survive on four to six hours of afternoon shade.
This plant is not fond of hot, humid temperatures. If the daytime temperature exceeds 70° degrees Fahrenheit during the day, it can be at risk of getting burned.
Ideal nighttime temperatures are roughly 60° degrees Fahrenheit.
In order for the plant to set buds, it requires a steady temperature of 65° degrees Fahrenheit for a period of six weeks.
Climbing hydrangeas are also not very frost hardy and can be damaged if exposed to frost.
Watering and Feeding
Climbing hydrangeas appreciate frequent watering. They thrive in a consistent level of moist soil.
Make sure plants are watered evenly on a regular basis, enough to keep the soil moist.
Increase the watering frequency during hot weather.
Plants should be fed in early spring with a high phosphorous granular fertilizer.
This will encourage better blooms. You should use a fertilizer for Hydrangeas again after blooming during the summer.
Soil and Transplanting
For the best results, plant climbing hydrangeas in well-draining, slightly acidic soil.
The same kind of acidic soil Azaleas and Rhododendrons appreciate.
Do not put the plant in normal planting soil without mixing in a generous quantity of peat moss.
In order to help keep moisture around the roots, apply a layer of mulch.
Grooming and Maintenance
Once plants become established, they will begin to grow faster and will require consistent pruning to keep it in shape.
How to Propagate Flowering Hydrangea Vine
You can propagate climbing hydrangeas by seeds or cuttings.
Growing From Cuttings
If using cuttings, make sure you’ve got a sharp, clean pruner.
Cut off a shoot, being careful to cut as low as possible. Plant the cutting in a pot with plenty of potting soil and proper drainage.
Keep the pot in a shady spot and keep the soil moist until the plant begins to take root.
Growing From Seeds
When growing from seeds, make sure you collect seed capsules in September and October.
They should be no more than 1/10″ to 1/5″ of an inch long.
Dry the seeds for about two weeks after which you should crush them so the seeds are more visible.
Once you’ve got your seeds, store them until it’s time to plant them in winter.
Sow the seeds on top of the potting mix and cover the pot or container with plastic wrap.
Place the container in a room with a temperature ranging from 65° to 70° degrees Fahrenheit.
It will take about 18 days or so for the seeds to germinate.
Hydrangea Anomala Petiolaris Pests and Disease Problems
These plants are virtually pest and disease free.
However, aphids can show up in the summer, mainly on the tips of young new growth. Try washing the aphids off with a strong spray of water from the garden hose. Repeat as needed if they persist.
Chlorosis is indicated by yellow areas between the veins on the leaves. Chlorosis is caused by iron deficiency due to alkaline water and/or soil.
Cure this by watering with an iron chelate solution specially formulated to treat chlorosis. More on plants and iron deficiency
Small leaves and stunted growth usually is a result of too much calcium. Repot into a potting soil mix containing peat moss. Use purified water when watering.
Drooping leaves signal of too little water. Climbing Hydrangea needs lots of water, especially during the growing season in spring and summer.
Lack of flowers is normal in young plants. Climbing Hydrangeas only flower after being several years old, even with the best care.
Suggested Uses For Hydrangea Vines
Climbing hydrangea vines are versatile and can be grown either upwards along stone walls, fences, houses, large trees, and a number of other supporting structures.
They are perfect for covering large areas.
They can also be pruned down to grow as ground cover and are ideal for the patio on a large trellis.
Climbing Hydrangeas, Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris, are native to Asia and often called Japanese hydrangea vine or creeping hydrangea. These vines can grow anywhere from 30 to 80 foot tall. However, you can prune these to shorter heights. The vines require heavy support to grow, and they will climb up trees, buildings, arbors, trellises, pergolas, fences and other taller structures. The plants use “holdfasts” also known as suckers on their branches to climb walls, trees, and other structures.
These plants typically bloom from late spring or early summer until late fall. The flowers are typically white and very fragrant. The flowers are covered in tiny fertile flowers surrounded by larger infertile flowers, very similar to lacecap hydrangea blooms. People also let the flowers dry out on the vines and use them in arrangements and other crafts.
The leaves are medium to dark green in the summer, and turn yellow in the fall before falling. That means these plants are deciduous (meaning the plants drop the leaves in the winter). The interesting looking bark adds winter interest for this plant as well!
Climbing Hydrangea Care
Climbing hydrangeas are cold hardy from USDA growing zones 4 to 8. Like most hydrangeas, these require moist soil, but well drained to prevent root rot. When planting, be sure to apply mulch around the base of the plant to help retain moisture.
These plants can grow well in full sun to partial shade, but prefer some shade in hotter climates. The plants that get more sun, typically do bloom more. This is one of the few vines that can tolerate large amounts of shade, although it will not bloom as much if it is growing in a shaded area. Check out our hydrangea care page for more information.
Pruning Climbing Hydrangeas
These plants are relatively slow growers the first few years after being planted. Unfortunately, there really isn’t much to do to speed this process up, besides starting with the largest plant possible that you can find for sale. It is not recommended that you prune these plants the first 2-3 years.
However, once the plant establishes, it starts to grow quite vigorously and can easily get out of control if you don’t watch closely. It is best to prune after the plant blooms in mid-summer, that way you do not cut off the next year’s flower buds. In the spring, be sure to remove dead or sick branches. You can continue to remove these branches at any time of year.
If the plant is way too overgrown, do not prune back drastically. It is best to do this in gradually over 2 to 3 years, that way you do not damage the plant beyond repair. Head over to our hydrangea pruning guide for more information.
Climbing Hydrangea Vine
360″-600″ tall (30-50 feet) x 60-72″ wide (5-6 feet). Climbing hydrangea vines are truly interesting plants to incorporate into the garden because nobody expects to see a hydrangea vine. Plants climb by attaching themselves to trees, fences, homes, and other structures via aerial rootlets, reaching heights of 30-50 feet. It is not unusual to see one growing all the way to the top of a pine or shade tree, covering the entire tree trunk. The vines have dark green leaves and are covered with thousands of large white lacecap flowers. Climbing hydrangeas are deciduous, but their shredding, cinnamon colored bark adds texture to the garden during the winter. It can take climbing hydrangeas a few years to establish themselves, during which they may grow as a low shrub. Once happy, the plants take off and start climbing, creating a unique focal point. Plant in full sun to part shade in moist, well-drained soil. Make sure the vines have something to climb so you get the full effect of the plant.
Hydrangea shrubs are native to the US and Asia and produce showy flowers throughout the summer season. There are many varieties available, each showcasing differing bloom colors, flower shapes, overall heights/spreads, levels of winter hardiness, and abilities to be grown in containers.
What does “Blooms on old/new wood” mean and what does that have to do with winter?
Some hydrangeas produce buds that will turn into flowers on old wood (also called “last year’s growth”), while others produce blooms on new wood (aka “this year’s growth”) and still others will flower on both old and new wood. This detail is especially valuable for cold-climate gardeners who may be apt to lose some of their hydrangea branches to breakage from heavy snow and ice, or who may see developing buds killed off by late spring frosts.
For these gardeners, losing old growth branches and young buds could mean missing out on hydrangea flowers the following summer. Choosing a variety that blooms on new wood (or both types of growth) is extra insurance; it means that regardless of your winter and late-spring weather, you can still count on your shrub to produce flowers come summer.
Likewise, warm-climate gardeners who choose varieties that only bloom on new wood, will have to make it a point to prune their hydrangea shrubs in order to encourage new buds to form. A simple task for sure, but one that needs to be remembered.
What does “Bloom color depends on soil type” mean?
The color of most hydrangea blooms are directly tied to the mineral make up of your soil and its overall pH. To really see bold colors, you’ll have the best results when planting in containers, which will allow you to create your preferred soil conditions at planting time. Although soil pH can be changed directly in the garden bed, it often takes more than one season to see results. The color of native Smooth hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens) cannot be changed.
Acid soils (with a pH below 7) produce purple-to-blue blooms, with the brightest blue blooms resulting from the most-acidic soils. To coax your hydrangeas into producing blue blooms, you can amend your soil with sulfur, or mulch your plants with a pine and/or cedar needle mulch.
Alkaline soils (with a pH above 7) produce pink blooms. The more alakaline (or sweet) your soil is, the deeper pink your blooms will be. This can be achieved by adding lime around your planting area. It is, however, more difficult to turn hydrangea blooms pink because as a general rule, most plants struggle to be healthy in soils with a pH above 7.
Many hydrangeas today are available in a range of heights and bloom cycles, regardless of their overall type. For example, you can find Mopheads that bloom on new growth and Panicles that are container-friendly.
Mopheads: (Hydrangea macrophylla) The most well-known (yet least cold hardy) hydrangea, Mopheads are known for their oversized blooms that come in two flower types – Lacecaps and Pom-poms. Also known as “Bigleaf” hydrangeas, the foliage on Mopheads is quite enormous and delivers a lot of greenery to the garden.
Panicle: (Hydrangea paniculata) Huge, cone-shaped blooms and excellent cold hardiness are the hallmarks of the Panicle hydrangea. Their arching branches and plentiful blooms also tolerate more sun than other varieties.
Smooth/ Snowball: (Hydrangea arborescens) Also known as “Wild” Hydrangeas, these shrubs are native to the eastern US – and while their color cannot be altered by changing soil pH, their blooms tend to turn a pale green as fall approaches.
Mountain: (Hydrangea serrata) More compact than Mopheads and presenting dainty lacecap blooms and smaller leaves, these hydrangeas are native to the mountains of Korea and Japan where they’re known as ‘Tea of Heaven’. They’re known for a slightly weeping shape and a long season of blooms.
Oakleafs: (Hydrangea quercifolia) Native to the eastern/southeastern US, Oakleafs have deeply-lobed foliage that changes color dramatically in autumn. Very cold hardy with showy, elongated blooms.
How to Choose the Right Hydrangeas
Plant – 4″ Pot
Climbing Hydrangea Vine
Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
4, 5, 6, 7
Half Sun / Half Shade, Full Shade
360″-600″ tall (30-50 feet)
60-72″ wide (5-6 feet)
Early to late summer
Crown of plant should rest just at or above the soil surface after watering in.
Glossy green, heart-shaped leaves.
Loamy Soil, Acidic Soil
Average, Well Draining
Good For Cut Flowers, Extended Bloom Time (more than 4 weeks), Good For Hedge / Screen
Northeast, Midwest, Pacific Northwest
Spring / Summer
Toxic to humans, dogs, cats and horses.
Let’s Hear It for Hardy Hydrangeas!
Enhance Your Denver Garden with Beauty and Graceful Color
Big, colorful, clustered blooms are what make the hydrangea plant so special! With more than 70 varieties, you might be uncertain about which hydrangea shrub is best suited for your Denver garden. City Floral Garden Center is home to the hydrangea experts in the Denver area and not only offer a large variety of shrubs but also provide the right guidance to make sure you select one that will thrive in your yard!
Choosing the Right Hydrangea for Your Garden
Handsome foliage and big, beautiful summer blooms are what the hydrangea plant is all about!
Plan on pops of color and a brighter garden scene with hydrangeas that produce blue, pink, white or lime-green blooms. The shrub also offers different bloom types and leaf shapes to add variety!
As you plan out your landscape for hydrangeas, think about the impact you’d like this gorgeous shrub to make. A hydrangea planting on its own can make a striking statement! Or you could plant several hydrangeas for a flowering hedge or natural fence between areas in the yard. Smaller gardens may need one of the container or dwarf hydrangea varieties that are compact but with the same blooming impact!
City Floral Garden Center offers a wide range of hydrangea plants that are handpicked for success in Denver landscapes. Bigleaf hydrangeas, smooth hydrangeas, winter-hardy varieties like Annabelle and Incrediball, and the Endless Summer series are available. Oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas offer a different leaf and flower shape that can overwinter well in wintry Denver. These are just some of the shrubs we provide that are ready to make an impact!
How to Care for Your Hydrangea
Hydrangea plants flourish when planted so they receive morning sunshine and afternoon shade. Sun is vital for healthy and abundant blooms! Hydrangeas grow well in north and east-facing areas and can even be planted under trees for filtered shade.
As with any plant or shrub, the quality of soil will help ensure its success. For Colorado, amending the soil with compost and peat moss helps provide the right pH environment but also helps with drainage. When planting, gently loosen the root ball and add long-acting fertilizer.
This shrub prefers moist, protected locations so planting nearer other plants with similar watering needs is a useful approach. Water your hydrangea regularly and deeply for the first two years, including once a month throughout the winter.
Hydrangea Expertise and Advice Blossoms Success
Our team is ready to help you determine the right location, right species, and right planting location for your hydrangea. We understand the ideal growing conditions and offer an extensive selection of hydrangea shrubs that will love being in your Denver garden!
City Floral has an extensive selection of the most beautiful annual plants around! Our own floral production means we offer plants designed to thrive in Colorado and we pride ourselves in providing full-color plant and flower options year-round.
Visit City Floral Garden Center at 1440 Kearney Street in Denver, CO to view our tree nursery, plants, flowers, garden tools, pots and outdoor furniture, gardening gifts or anything else you might need to have a beautiful Denver garden! We are a proud small business that has been serving Denver since 1911.
As with any plant the success of growing hydrangeas is dependent upon the quality of the soil you are planting in and where you plant. Hydrangeas do best in a place where they get morning sun and afternoon shade. They prefer soil that has been amended well with peat moss and compost. For our soils, you need to add a lot of peat moss and compost. This will help the soil drain well and lower the pH of your soil. Begin by digging a hole one and a half times wider than the container the plant came in. Add straight peat moss or Sheep, Peat and Compost to the planting hole. Add some fertilizer with a high middle number to the bottom of the hole and then cover slightly. Take your hydrangea out of the container and rough up the sides and bottom of the root ball. Center the plant in the hole, making sure the top of the root ball is even with the surrounding soil surface. Back fill the planting hole with more peat moss or Sheep, Peat and Compost. Water well. Our soils are generally alkaline so your blooms will be pink unless you regularly acidify your soil with Sulfur or Aluminum Sulfate. Adding a top dressing of peat moss or compost through the growing season will also help maintain soil acidity.