How to kill flowers?

5 Simple Mistakes that Can Kill your Plants

If you’re thinking of getting your green fingers out and planting some gorgeous blooms in your garden it’s essential that you do your research first. No one wants to spend money on plants that you don’t know how to look after – because, well, they eventually die.

We all kill our plants from time to time due to misjudgment or a busy schedule meaning and as a gardener, this can be difficult to come to terms with. To help you we have listed the five most common mistakes gardeners make that lead to plants dying – and how to fix them.

1. Planting in an unsuitable location

Planting your flowers in an unsuitable location is so common that it has made its way to number one on our list. You should read what the plant needs before you get digging as you may find that some plants require shade and some direct sunlight.

The same goes for moisture levels – if your plant requires a great deal of moisture then try to keep it in a shaded area otherwise all moisture in the soil will dry up.

2. Overwatering

For some reason, all gardeners think that the more water you give your plant, the more it will grow. Sometimes, all you’re actually doing is drowning your plant.

The best way to water your plants is infrequently but deeply, so ensure you get to the roots.

If you do your research you will also find out whether your plant requires a large amount of water or just a little. Some plants only like to be watered once a week, whereas others will need refreshing more regularly.

You should also remember that all plants will require a larger amount of water during the summer months when the soil is more likely to dry out.

3. Over-fertilizing

Just like with the watering process, more is not always better. Be sure to find out the nutrient needs of your plants and correspond this with what your chosen fertilizer has to offer. You should also note that overuse of synthetic fertilizers is particularly dangerous to all plants so be careful with this!

The best way to ensure you are doing the right thing by your plants is to simply read the instructions on your fertilizer and follow them to the letter as this will be the best method and the way in which the fertilizer is designed to be used.

4. Poor spacing

When you purchase a new plant you should research how large it will grow and ensure you leave enough space around it for it to thrive as it should do. By planting your blooms too close together the roots will get damaged causing the plant to eventually die. You will also find that it will affect other plants just as badly, so, do some research and keep things spread out.

5. The wrong time of year

Whilst you may be dying to get your green fingers out in January, for some plants this may be the wrong time of year, so it’s important that you plant at the right time to ensure it survives as long as possible.

If you have Spring bulbs, they should be planted around November/December time in order to really look beautiful during the Spring months. However, each plant will say on its packaging when they should be planted and when you can expect to see their blooms.

Avoiding mistakes

Whilst these five common mistakes are nothing that can’t be fixed it’s also worth noting that you should keep an eye out for any bugs or insects. During the summer months, you’re guaranteed to find a snail or slug eating your beautiful blooms and ruining your flower display, so it’s vital that you nip it in the bud immediately.

You can get slug pellets which are the ideal solution when placed around your beloved plants however, that is the only precaution that you need to take as bees and spiders are absolutely no harm to your plants, in fact, they help them thrive! If you have pets such as dogs and cats then slug pellets can pose a serious health risk to them so you’ll need to look for alternative solutions.

Another quick tip: never confuse compost with manure, they are completely different things and trust us, you don’t want manure in your back garden! Compost is made from garden waste and has been formed to prevent your plants from developing diseases whilst also giving them the nutrients they require, so be sure to use this instead!

By correcting these five mistakes, there is absolutely no reason why your garden of gorgeous flowers won’t flourish this year. You never know you could even enter your local Gardener of the Year competition – and win!

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Having trouble keeping your plants alive? Here are 15 low maintenance plants that you will not be able to kill.

Traveling is difficult when you have a lot of high maintenance plants in your garden that you need to care for. Not everyone has a green thumb, so finding someone to care for your plants while you are away may be more difficult than finding someone to feed your pets. Because of this, I decided to plant more low maintenance plants in my garden so that they can tolerate high heat and drought conditions.

In fact, many of the plants that I am currently growing are nearly impossible to kill, making them as travel-friendly for me as possible.

In this guide, we are going to take a look at 15 plants that are easy to grow and almost impossible to kill.

1) Marigolds

Marigolds are one of the hardiest flowers that you can plant in your garden, which is why they are seen at nearly every home in the country. In fact, they are well known by gardeners to be a drought tolerant plant that can handle a lot of heat. They grow best in zones two through 11, but realistically, marigolds can thrive in any area. Marigolds are annual flowers, so when the first frost hits, their growing period ends.

2) Daylily

If you are looking for a plant to brighten your garden, the daylily is a great option that comes in a plethora of colors. These blooms will only last for a day, but they will continue to appear throughout the summer in zones four through nine. These plants grow best in full sun, and they are able to tolerate drought conditions, which means that even if you forget to water these plants, they will continue to do well.

3) Cosmos

One of the most low-maintenance plants that you can consider for your garden is cosmos. It grows best in zones five through 10, but these hardy plants are so easy to grow that they can seed themselves and grow with very little care in the warmer areas of the country. They do best in full sun, but they will also grow in partial shade, which means they can be planted anywhere in your garden.

4) Kalanchoe

This is a succulent plant, which means that it retains water so that it can survive drought conditions. Most often found in zones eight to 10, this is a plant that loves the southern heat; in fact, the tips of the leaves often burn, giving the plant a unique reddish coloration. The plant itself grows to be about 12 inches tall, and it produces bright orange, red, yellow, and pink flowers that are quite attractive.

5) Begonia

Begonias are colorful flowers that grow in zones three through 11, but since they are sensitive to the frost, you will only be able to grow them during the winter months in zones eight through 11. This is a plant that loves the shade, so if you do not have a sunny garden, this plant will thrive here. It can also tolerate drought conditions and a lot of sun, so regardless of where you plant it, the begonias will grow.

6) Goldenrod

Goldenrod is a plant that is mostly known in its wildflower form, but it will also make a great addition to any garden because it will basically grow on its own. Their tiny yellow blooms add brightness to your garden, and they will attract butterflies and bees as well. Growing best in zones four through nine, these plants can handle full or partial sun. These drought-tolerant, deer-resistant plants can easily grow to be eight feet in height.

7) Coneflower

Are you looking for a bright pink, purple, or crimson flower to attract butterflies, bees, and birds to your garden? The coneflower grows up to five feet in height, which is perfect for adding depth to your garden. These plants grow best in zones five through nine; they prefer full sun, but these plants can grow in shady conditions as well. Their blooming period begins in early summer and continues until or through the first frost of the year.

8) Yarrow

If you are looking for a lot of ground cover in your garden, yarrow is a plant that spreads quite rapidly. It tends to grow the best in zones three through nine, and plants can grow to be four feet tall. Yarrow can handle a lot of heat, and it is also drought-resistant, so if you forget to water it, it will still survive. TH yellow, white, pink, and red blooms will continue throughout the entire summer, especially if you deadhead the plant.

9) Hosta

This is a great option for a garden that does not get a lot of sun. Hostas are very adaptable plants that grow in zones three through nine; in fact, this is a plant that does not mind cooler temperatures. When the weather is below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, this plant will go dormant for about 40 days. They tend to do well in partial sun, especially the golden varieties with foliage that turns yellow in direct sunlight.

10) Zinnia

Zinnias are very adaptable plants that can grow to be up to three feet in height. They grow best in zones three through 10, and they prefer full sun, though they will grow in the shade as well. These are drought tolerant plants that will attract butterflies to your garden. The blooms from this plant last all summer, and they can be red, pink, orange, purple, yellow, and white in color.

11) Petunia

Petunias are one of my favorite flowers because they take very little maintenance, especially in zones nine through 11 where the first frost occurs much later in the season. These plants can manage both full and partial sun, and they will only need to be watered once a week. These lovely flowers tend to bloom during the spring, summer, and the fall of the season in shades of pink, purple, red, yellow, and white.

12) Spider Flower

If you are looking for a very low maintenance plant for your garden, the spider flower is a great option to consider. In fact, this plant grows so easily that you can simply sprinkle the seeds in the soil, and they will take root. These plants grow well as annuals in almost any zone, but if you want them to thrive year-round, they will do best in zones 10 and 11 in full sun or partial shade.

13) Moss Rose

This is a plant that has beautiful rose-like blooms with succulent leaves that you might find on a desert plant. It retains water, so it does great in high heat and dry conditions. Typically, the more hot and humid it is, the better it does, which is why it thrives in zones two through 11.

14) Coreopsis

If you have a garden full of poor soil, then coreopsis is a great plant to consider. It can thrive in dry, hot, and humid conditions without a lot of care from you. This plant is often seen as a wildflower, but in zones four through nine, they can add some lovely orange, yellow, and red blooms to your garden environment. They will also attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators to your garden.

15) Butterfly Weed

This is a plant that does well in any type of soil, and once it is planted, it does not need a lot of water to survive. It grows best in zones three through nine, and full sun will not hinder the small orange blooms. As the name implies, this is a plant that attracts butterflies, but it will also attract hummingbirds, birds, bees, and other pollinators.


Popular Garden Ideas

Popular Garden Ideas

Types Of Flower Bulbs – Learn About Different Bulb Types

Plants propagate from many sources. Seeds are the most common way but they also reproduce through offsets, corms, rhizomes, tubers and bulbs. Bulbs are underground storage structures that carry both the genetic starting material for the plant but also a food supply to get it going. There are five different types of bulbs but only one true bulb. The different bulb types are more accurately called geophytes and encompass a wide range of plant types.

True Bulb Basics

The true bulb is a layered structure filled with plant carbohydrates with a plant shoot in the core. It has a basal plate where roots grow, fleshy scales or layers, the outer skin, the shoot at the center flanked by developing bulbets. Common spring bulbs, like daffodils and tulips, are true bulbs.

There are two different types of bulbs which are in the true bulb category.

Tunicate bulbs all have the outer skin or tunic. This papery cover protects the interior scales where the food sources are stored. Tulips are a good example of this type of bulb.

Imbricate bulbs, like lilies, do not have the paper covering. This type of bulb must stay moist prior to planting.

Different Bulb Types

Many underground storage structures are also called bulbs but they are not true bulbs. These include corms, tubers and rhizomes. Each of these is also filled with carbohydrate sugars to fuel plant growth and development.

Corms – Corms are similar in appearance to bulbs but are solid inside. Crocosmia grows from corms, which spread rapidly and easily, as do gladiolus, crocus and freesia.

Tubers – A tuber is a swollen stem with growth nodes or eyes. Daylilies and cyclamen are examples of tuber types of flower bulbs. Tubers are propagated by planting a piece of the tuber with several healthy eyes. There are exotic and urbane types of flower bulbs, with a variety suitable for nearly every gardening situation.

Tuberous roots – There are also tuberous roots, like tuberous begonia, which are thickened roots that hold food sources.

Rhizomes – Rhizomes are another of the bulb plant types. They are simply underground stems that also store plant food and can sprout new growth. Common plants having rhizomes are irises. You can see the rhizomes on old stands of iris, as the large roots get pushed up out of the soil. They are easy to pull apart and start new plants.

Bulbets/bulbils – There is another bulb-type structure called bulbet, or bulbil. These are the tiny round organs found growing on the tops of Alliums and related plants.

Bulb Plant Types

Not only flowering plants spring from bulbs and other storage structures. Potatoes come from tubers, bamboo arises from rhizomes and elephant ear plants have tuberous bulb-like structures. While not technically considered bulbs, hostas are also commonly grouped with other bulbous type plants.

The most well known, however, are the flowering types. The wide variety in types of flower bulbs speaks to nature’s wisdom in providing variety and adaptability in her plants.

Planting Bulbs

Jane Edmanson

JANE EDMANSON: When the weather starts to cool down in southern Australia, it can only mean one thing – it’s time to start planting spring-flowering bulbs.

What makes a bulb so special? Well, it’s the promise of things to come. In here, there’s the flowering stem, there’s the flowering buds, there’s the reproductive parts and it’s a food storage organ as well. This is a power packed machine!

Bulbs are really easy to plant – unlike seedlings that can be a little bit fiddly when you’re transplanting them. You can put them in the ground if you want. You can juggle with them they’re that handy, or you can put them into a pot – a pot that doesn’t need a lot of room down there. They haven’t got large roots, so a squat pot is good. A wide one is terrific cause then you can put half a dozen bulbs into the same pot.

Now this one is called ‘Erlicheer.’ (Narcissus’Erlicheer’). It’s aNarcissusor a daffodil and it’s got double flowers, creamy coloured and the fragrance will knock you out! Put as many as you like in here – they can nearly be touching – and half a dozen is fantastic.

Put a little bit more soil on the top. You’ve got to plant them so that they’re twice as deep as the size of the bulb. That’s really important, so about that deep and – if I just stick that one back in again – top him up, sprinkle a little bit of fertiliser – just a slow release fertiliser in there – mix it in a wee bit. That’s to give it a bit of energy of course. Water those and you will find in spring they’ll be a joy.

They may be small, but these are the show ponies of the tulip world. This is Tulip Montana (Tulip Montane -Tulipa montana) and it’s the Kurdish mountain tulip. In spring, it has a blood-red flower and it’s absolutely a delight. Lovely species to grow. Now these little ones will go in quite tight together and you could easily put a lot in a pot or in the garden. They’ll last for a year and then once they’ve finished flowering, I would take them out of the pot and plant them in the garden. You’ve got to wait till the foliage does die down because that’s really important. You’ve got to wait till they go yellow and wither away and that waiting process might take 6 or 8 weeks and the plant looks really a bit yellow and ordinary. It’s important though because that’s the time when the plant is actually getting more food and more nutrient down into here for next years’ flowering, so leave them be and then you’ll get a good flowering for next year. And top that up…there we go.

Now if you can’t wait till spring when they are going to look fantastic, you can plant things on top. This is a Bacopa (Sutera cordatacv. SYN.Chaenostoma cordatum). You could put pansies or violas as well – and that’s going to be a wonderful combination of colours from the bedding plants with the contrasting colour of the bulbs coming through – and that really will set your spring alight!

COSTA GEORGIADIS: Earlier in the program, Tino met Will Fletcher and saw his amazing collection of native bonsai. Well, if you’ve been inspired to have a go yourself, where do you start?

WILL FLETCHER: Ok, well first you need a good, healthy plant – preferably a bushy one so you’ve got lots of options for branches – and then you can work on your design as you go.

The first thing I will do is take off lots of little tiny leaves and branches I won’t be wanting, leaving the major branches and then I’ll have a look to see if there’s any good roots for the root system.

TINO CARNEVALE: You’re using special cutting tools but can secateurs be used?

WILL FLETCHER: You can use secateurs, but these ones cut very close to the trunk so you get a nice clean cut, so these are called branch cutters.

TINO CARNEVALE: So you’re trying to lift the canopy just like a normal tree would be in the bush?

WILL FLETCHER: Yeah – taking off the small leaves off the main trunk cause on big trees, you don’t have little leaves coming off your main trunk – you have them on the branches.

And the next thing I’d like to do is look for some good roots.

TINO CARNEVALE: So what are we looking for in our root zone?

WILL FLETCHER: If I can find a nice set of roots, radiating out from the base of the trunk and that will give the impression of a mature tree if I can expose some of those roots.

TINO CARNEVALE: You’re being quite rough with it.

WILL FLETCHER: Yes I’ll be taking off at least half the foliage so I should be able to take off half the roots. So I’ve found one good root here and I’ll keep working around to see what else is around at about that level, so now we’ve got these three very strong roots that will form a terrific base and anchor the tree into the ground.

TINO CARNEVALE: They also give it a much more naturalistic feel to the actual plant with scrubbing that back.

WILL FLETCHER: Yes indeed. Yeah – and the flare of the trunk is very lovely.

So I’m planning to turn this lower branch into a dead spar and keep all the foliage up top in the design of this tree. I think I’ll actually break this off.

TINO CARNEVALE: You’re sort of stripping it and breaking it just like a possum would in the wild or…..

WILL FLETCHER: Yep – I’m just a big possum!

So that’s come up very well. Now I’m very happy with that as a structure.

Ok, so here it is – the finished product.

TINO CARNEVALE: Oh Will that’s beautiful. What a great form of artistic expression and it uses so many horticultural practices that it’s a really good way of honing your skills.

WILL FLETCHER: Indeed it is, yes.

TINO CARNEVALE: Well I hope you too have been inspired to go out and do your own bonsai. I’ll see you next time.

COSTA GEORGIADIS: Well that’s it for this week. We’ll be back in two week’s time. There’s no program next Saturday because it’s Anzac Day, but before you go, have a look at this. It’s Gallipoli Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and it was propagated from a bush that was brought back from Anzac Cove by a digger in 1915. It’s being sold widely and part of the proceeds go to planting and restoring those magnificent avenues of trees that serve as wonderful memorials to all those servicemen and women who have lost their lives in war.

Why not grab a little bit of Anzac history for your garden? Keep an eye out for it. I’ll see you next time.

Weeds in flower beds

The manual removal of weeds is the old-fashioned way of weeding. While it may supply some people with necessary exercise, most of us consider it the biggest back-breaking chore in gardening.

Blistered hands and aching backs are common complaints after digging or hoeing. Sometimes it is not only the gardener who is damaged. Digging and hoeing can damage the roots of wanted plants, reducing their vigour and encouraging the formation of suckers.

Few of us have enough time to do the jobs we enjoy, so finding a way of saving time on weeding is a big benefit. It is possible to treat large areas quickly and with little effort. Apart from the selfish benefit of saving time and effort, there are cultural benefits to using modern weedkillers.

When digging out weeds or hoeing, the gardener will bring thousands of weed seeds to the surface where they will find the right conditions to germinate. This is not the case with chemical control which does not disturb the soil.

Breaking up the roots of perennial weeds, like couch, ground elder and bindweed, leaves behind small pieces that can quickly grow into a new plant.

1. Mulch your flower bed

Keeping weeds under control isn’t always a question of digging or spraying. A physical barrier (called a mulch) will also help to prevent weed seeds from germinating. This light-excluding layer on the soil surface can be of gravel, bark chippings or easily obtained organic matter.

Gravel is suitable for alpine beds or the surface of sink gardens but is expensive for large areas. Black polythene, on the other hand, is cheap but unsightly. The best product for mulching is bark chippings or cocoa shells. They suppress the growth of weeds and at the same time deter the movement of slugs and snails. Above all they allow rainwater through to plant roots but reduce surface evaporation.

2. Use a gel weedkiller such as Roundup Gel

Using Roundup Gel in just one hand, and at the click of a button, you can release the precise amount of gel needed to target the weeds without risk to other nearby plants. So, for crowded borders where you want to protect your beautiful plants, this product is the perfect choice.

The gel formulation sticks to the weed leaf and stays there, so there’s no dripping or running off onto the soil or surrounding plants. Simply click the button and apply all the gel that appears across the weeds leaves, then in the following days you will start to see the weed die off – Simple!

1 click per annual weed, 2 clicks per perennial weed.

3. Weed on a dry and sunny day

In order to get the best performance from any weedkiller, we would always advise to apply the product when the weather is fair and not to apply in windy conditions. Do not apply if rain is expected within 6 hours of application as this could reduce the efficacy of the product.

4. Leave for up to 7 days

Roundup Optima+ and Weedol RootKill Plus are systemic weedkillers. Systemic weedkillers are designed for tough as well as all round weed killing. They kill from the inside out – right down to the deepest root so weeds can’t re-grow.

Leave weeds 7 days before digging or soil cultivation, for the weedkiller to move to the root. Best used in spring and summer.

these concentrated systemic weedkillers can be applied either through a watering can or a pressure sprayer (check pack details for application methods) and are biodegradable. Children and pets need not be excluded from treated areas once the product has dried.

Weedkillers are best sprayed in the evening when it’s cooler. This gives maximum time for the chemical to be absorbed and ensure good results.

As a general rule of thumb, with systemic weedkillers: the faster the weed is growing, the faster it will die after application.

Growing a weed-free lawn can be stress-free when you take a few simple preventative steps in early spring before weeds take hold.

To truly kill weeds, you need to dig down to the root. Pulling up weeds with weed tools or by hand can be a big challenge, especially when the weeds seem to be taking over your lawn. In addition, weed roots can break off while you’re pulling them up and lurk underground waiting for the next chance to sprout.

Because of the challenges of weed removal, many lawn lovers turn to herbicides to do the job. Lawn weed killer Roundup for Lawns is a product that kills off weeds but preserves your lawn. After you spray, it doesn’t leave a brown spot; it kills the weeds by reaching their roots. It also helps prevent regrowth, even by the most common and invasive weeds.


  • Keep people and pets away from treated areas until the product completely dries.
  • Be sure to spray when no wind or rain is in the forecast. The product becomes waterproof in about three to four hours.
  • Apply only when temperatures reach between 45 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Once you spray for lawn weeds, you may need to treat other areas in your outdoor space, such as gravel areas and the cracks in walkways, driveways and patios. Roundup Max Control 365 eliminates tough weeds in these areas. It also works longer than other weed killers, lasting up to a year, making it a cost-effective option if these are the only areas you are spraying.

For weeds in your garden, you’ll want a targeted product that sticks close to the weed roots and doesn’t harm your flowers, shrubs or edibles. Roundup Ready-To-Use Weed and Grass Killer III with Sure-Shot Wand takes down weeds, preventing them from stealing water and nutrients from your plants. The wand extends and a protective cup positions over the unwanted weeds allowing for precise spraying.

Another application option is Roundup Precision Gel. With this product, you touch the applicator and gel to the leaves, sending the herbicide to the roots. Since there’s no spraying involved at all, you don’t have to worry about accidentally harming other nearby plants. The gel works great in tight spaces and hard-to-reach areas in your garden.

If you need one product that can work in your garden as well as in cracks in walkways, driveways and patios, try the Roundup Ready-To-Use Weed and Grass Killer with Comfort Wand. The ergonomic wand is extendable and lets you spray continuously without tiring your hand.

For extensively weedy areas, consider Roundup Concentrate. It works great when prepping new vegetable gardens as well as for lawn renovation, especially when you just want to start over. Ornamental flowers, trees and shrubs may be planted one day after application. Lawn grasses, vegetables, herbs and fruits may be planted three days after application.

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