How to kill dollarweed?

Eliminate Dollar Weed – How To Kill Dollar Weed

Dollar weed (Hydrocotyle spp.), also known as pennywort, is a perennial weed that commonly pops up in moist lawns and gardens. Similar in appearance to lily pads (only smaller with white flowers), this weed is often difficult to control once it becomes well established. In fact, it can quickly spread throughout the lawn and other areas by seed and rhizomes. Nonetheless, there are several options available to treat dollar weed should it become a problem for you.

Getting Rid of Dollar Weed Naturally

Since this weed thrives in overly moist areas, the best way to treat dollar weed is by reducing moisture in the affected area with proper mowing and irrigation. You should also improve any drainage issues that may be present.

In addition, dollar weed can be easily pulled up by hand, though this can be tedious and in larger areas, it may not be feasible. Organic control involves methods that may work for some while not others, but it’s always worth a try to see if one will work for you before resorting to chemicals. These methods include the following:

  • Boiling water – Pouring boiling water on areas with dollar weed will quickly kill the plants. However, care should be taken not to get any on other nearby plants or grass, as boiling water will kill anything it comes into contact with.
  • Baking soda – Some people have had luck with using baking soda for killing dollar weeds. Simply wet down the dollar weed foliage and sprinkle baking soda over it, leaving it overnight. This is supposed to kill the weeds but be safe for the grass.
  • Sugar – Others have found success with dissolving white sugar over the weed. Spread the sugar over the area and water it in thoroughly.
  • Vinegar – Spot treating dollar weed with white vinegar has also been deemed effective as a dollar weed herbicide.

How to Kill Dollar Weed with Chemicals

Sometimes chemical control is necessary for killing dollar weeds. Most types of dollar weed herbicide are applied in spring while the plants are still young, though repeat applications may be needed. Monument, Manor, Blade, Image and Atrazine have all been found to effectively eradicate this weed. They are also safe for use on Zoysia, St. Augustine, Bermuda and Centipede grasses (provided you carefully follow instructions).

Note: Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and much more environmentally friendly.

How to kill dollar weed – Knowledgebase Question

Dollarweed, also called Pennywort, is a small broadleaf plant. The best way to get rid of it is to hand pull it from the root.The problem is that it grows in large patches and it replaces itself quickly so that few find pulling it up a reasonable solution. There are, however, a plethora of avenues of attack to try.
Try weed-killing chemicals. There are chemicals available including WipeOut by GreenLight which will kill the weeds but not their seeds so multiple applications will be needed. A product called Image is also an option. It’s especially good for use with St. Augustine grass. The chemical of choice was Atrizine which has been banned as an herbicide by the EPA. You can still get the same chemical in weed and feed preparations and use that.
Use regular table sugar on the lawn. One pound should cover about 250 to 300 square feet. Put down your sugar and water it well and keep your lawn mowed as you usually do. Within a couple of weeks you should see fewer weeds.
Choose a natural weed killing herbicide whose main ingredient is 10 percent vinegar. You have to use 10 percent vinegar only–regular vinegar is of no use–check with your local nursery or gardening department. The formula for this is as follows: 1 gallon of 10 percent vinegar, 1 oz. orange oil, 1 tbsp. molasses (the ordinary kitchen type), 1 tsp. liquid soap. Shake well and use full strength on warm to hot days for best results. Don’t spray on plants you want to keep alive as it will harm any plant it touches.
If all else fails, try the experts. If you’re anywhere near a university they usually have an extension service that provides information and assistance with tough yard and garden problems. They’re also great for information on all kinds of kitchen safety, pest problems, and soil testing.

medorojr – posted 19 April 2001 17:44

can anyone give me any ideas on the best way to get rid of dollar weed. I put down scott’s weed and feed in march along with a turf builder. I also put down a weed killer in march, but the problem is just as bad now as is was then. Please help!

Becky – posted 29 April 2001 04:04

Atrizine (sp?) is useful, however you cannot apply it after temps reach a certain degree (read lable) Also, check to be certain the areas are not staying damp. Dollar weed likes wet feet.

Burlap_Etc – posted 08 May 2001 22:42

quote:Originally posted by medorojr:can anyone give me any ideas on the best way to get rid of dollar weed. I put down scott’s weed and feed in march along with a turf builder. I also put down a weed killer in march, but the problem is just as bad now as is was then. Please help!

Medorojr, Atrazine if not a Restricted Use Product on the commercial market has a label cut-off of April 15th. So this is a NO NO. So you want to know what to use hold please….. The suspense is killing you I know. Two products are out on the market Manor By Riverdale and Lontrel By Dow both can be use in warm months and both are expensive per unit but it is potent stuff! Manor is my favorite it smokes Dollarweed! Burlap_Etc

sicofturf – posted 09 May 2001 19:25

That is way to humourous. All those $$$ spent and the weeds win. Weeds rule!! It tickles me to death win all the $$$ is spent and couple months later half of it is covered with the weeds. HeeHeeHee. Maybe one day vainity will learn.

TURFTIDE – posted 10 May 2001 16:51

WHAT IS YOUR TURF VARIETY THAT YOU HAVE AS A DOMINANT STAND? WHAT STATE IS YOUR RESIDENCE? I MAY HAVE THE HELP IF YOU CAN IDENTIFY YOUR TURF.

em ell – posted 25 July 2002 18:50

So-o-o-o-o-o……

nobody knows haw to control dollar weed, isn’t that so? Damn.

WillR – posted 25 July 2002 21:35

em,

If you carefully look at the responses in this thread (as well as about 30+ previous threads on this subject), you will find that your statement is very much off base.

It only takes a minute to look at previous topics. I can see no reason to beat a dead horse in the mouth.

Pumpkin – posted 03 April 2003 08:58

Here in South Louisiana we also have major problems with dollar weed. I researched, the net, and found a Herbicide “Image” that attacks the root system; which is the main way dollar weed spreads. I’m going to give it a shot, also I thought of using Roundup; mixed per instructions and using a hypodermic needle (for shots) will try injecting the roots…they are easy to reach and to recognize. Between the two methods I hope one will work.

quote:Originally posted by medorojr:can anyone give me any ideas on the best way to get rid of dollar weed. I put down scott’s weed and feed in march along with a turf builder. I also put down a weed killer in march, but the problem is just as bad now as is was then. Please help!

Sputnik – posted 04 August 2003 16:28

I used Roundup (stronger concentration than what the label recommended) on my dollar weed. The dollar weed seems to thrive on it. As soon as I pull fove or sic out of the ground, ten more seem to pop up right where the previous five used to be. Has anybody used Image? I have read that it really does a good job, but since it is expensive, I would first like some feedback from somebody who has used it. Thanks.

cboothe – posted 05 August 2003 12:41

Image works, but I had to make multiple applications. The dollar weed is still not completely gone, but Image was more effective against the roots than anything else I have found (including Roundup). You must kill the roots or it comes right back stronger than ever!

jr – posted 23 August 2003 19:27

i am an aquatic applicator, and dollarweed can infest ponds just as bad as lawns. in this case i use 2,4-D amine and it is usually dead in three days or so. 2,4-D amine is also labeled for turf use on some types of grasses but i dont know which. it is also much cheaper than image, which costs about $40 per pint. 2,4-D amine sells for about $11 for 2.5 gallons. there is also (obviously, since its an aquatic herbicide) no restrictions for use around water or wells like atrazine.

dantheman98 – posted 29 August 2003 17:46

Can you use 2,4-D amine in a small spring fed lake that has out of control dollar weed?

Thanks

jr – posted 02 September 2003 14:18

I dont know what specifically you are asking. Of course you can use it on dollar week in lakes or ponds; that is what it was developed for and it has been around for almost 100 years. If your question is about the “spring-fed” issue, i dont see what difference it makes, unless the pond drains somewhere, like through a creek or storm drain or onto somebody’s property. It does have water-use restrictions after application on the label that you should make note of, particularly if other people use the water for drinking, swimming, or irrigation.

dbenedict – posted 22 September 2003 13:22

I have some riverdale Manor for sale if you need that particular product. I am selling it for $95 per 2oz. bottle.

[email protected] – posted 29 September 2003 12:06

How do you apply anything that will kill Dollarweed when you have l00 year old live oaks and you do not want to damage them?

jr – posted 05 October 2003 07:29

You don’t use any of the older products like 2,4-d amine or atrazine, that’s for sure. In addition to being licensed for aquatic weed control, I am an ISA certified arborist (#FL-1146A), so I use the full range of herbicides and pesticides for trees, turf, and lakes. 2,4-d amine is volatile, meaning it will readily vaporize and damage tree foliage. Atrazine is residual in the soil, so it could be collected by the oak’s roots. It depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you have a dominant stand of grass that you are trying to preserve, it depends on what it is as to what you can use. Image was mentioned in a previous post and would be fine, though it is expensive. If you have a complete infestation of dollarweed and want bare earth, Roundup or Reward would be fine. These are both foliar herbicides that won’t affect your trees. Reward would be faster and give you better results than Roundup, but it’s more expensive and more difficult to handle.

Questions From The Plant Clinic: Dollarweed

Dollarweed is a common issue in Florida lawns and gardens. This week Master Gardener and Master Naturalist Don Philpott ([email protected]) discusses what you can do to get rid of dollarweed, and why you might consider keeping it! Read Don’s other articles .

When the weeds talk to us we should listen

Dollarweed in bloom.

There is no such thing as a weed, it is simply a plant growing where we don’t want it. The appearance of many of these plants, however, can be nature’s way of trying to tell us something.

Take Dollarweed (a member of the Hydrocotyle family) for instance, one of the most common ‘weeds’ found in lawns in Central Florida. Also known as pennywort (wort is an old English word for plant), dollarweed gets its name from its round leaves about the size of a dollar coin.

If you have dollarweed take heed – because its presence is likely a sign that you are doing something wrong in the garden. You may be over watering so check your irrigation and make sure the areas where the dollarweed is growing are not getting too much water. Adjust your sprinkler heads if necessary or reduce the amount of time that you irrigate. Dollarweed thrives in moist growing conditions so there may be a drainage problem. Check for puddling and see how damp the soil is. Cutting the grass too short can also allow dollarweed to take a hold as can over fertilizing.

An edible solution to dollarweed

The good news is that if you do have dollarweed it is edible. Provided no chemicals have been applied to your lawn, you can eat your way out of the problem. Wash if necessary and served with salads – the leaves are less bitter than the stems. Powdered dollarweed is sold in health food stores for sprinkling on food or used for an herbal tea. It can even be fermented to make a ‘kraut’ or ‘kimchee’.

One reason why the edible solution is a good one is that it is also good for the environment. There are 40.5 million acres of lawn in the U.S. – four times the acreage under corn – and 80% of all homes have grass lawns. Over 50% of water used in the U.S. goes towards irrigation, about 30% on watering of lawns.

The average homeowner will spend 150 hours a year maintaining their lawn. Homeowners also spend around 3 billion hours annually mowing lawns, according to Bloomberg. Each year 250,000 people – 17,000 of them children – are injured using lawn mowers – three times the number injured by firearms, said the U.S. Council on Consumer Product Safety.

According to the EPA, every year Americans buy about 70 million pounds of chemical fertilizer to keep lawns lush, and over 32,000 lbs. of pesticides are used on lawns – at a cost of $2.2 billion. Per acre, it costs more to maintain a lawn than it does to grow corn, rice or sugarcane.

Next time you’re looking for a solution for your dollarweed problem, keep in mind that a change in practices can produce better results long term. If you get a little peckish from all that yard work, you can always try to eat the weeds.

You can read more about chemical controls of dollarweed . Remember, if you aren’t 100% sure of a plant I.D., have a professional identify it for you before eating it! Never eat a plant you do not have a positive I.D. on, the results can be deadly.

Contact the Plant Clinic

The Seminole County Master Gardener Plant Clinic is open Monday – Friday from 9am-Noon and 1pm-4pm. For more information on how to contact a Master Gardener about your gardening questions, visit our website at this .

by Kaydie McCormick

Posted: February 8, 2018

Category: Home Landscapes, Lawn, Natural Resources

Tags: dollarweed, don philpott, eat the weeds, edible, master gardener, questions from the plant clinic

Scientific name: Hydrocotyle spp.
Abundance: plentiful
What: leaves, stems
How: raw
Where: yards, marshes, water
When: spring, summer, fall
Nutritional Value: some minerals
Dangers: Thoroughly wash plants collected from water to remove any harmful bacteria.
Dollarweeds domineering wood sorrel, pony’s foot, and young cleavers.

A yard taken over by dollarweeds.

Dollarweeds in the woods.

Dollarweeds along the shore of a pond.

Texas distribution, attributed to U. S. Department of Agriculture. The marked counties are guidelines only. Plants may appear in other counties, especially if used in landscaping.

North American distribution, attributed to U. S. Department of Agriculture.

Dollarweed is a common yard weed that drives many people nuts. The single, round leaf with a centered stem seems to explore across otherwise perfect lawns. Mowing them down or picking them leaves the roots behind which will quickly produce a new crop of green disks. These weeds vex homeowners in all but the very hottest and coldest times of the year, becoming most prevalent in the spring and fall.
Dollarweeds the size of quarters or smaller and my favorites, tasting somewhat like cucumber peels. I prefer the younger, more tender, nickel-sized “circles” over larger ones. The larger ones have a dry, slightly bitter/chalky taste. Luckily, Dollarweeds of all sizes can be fermented like cabbage to make “dollarweed-kraut” or a yard-based version of kimchee. Just pick the circles, leave the stingy, tough stems behind.
Dollar weed on left, edible Pony’s Foot on right.

Some people get confused between dollarweed and pony’s foot (Dichondra carolinensis). The leaf of dollarweed is a complete circle whereas pony’s foot is cleft, giving it the shape of a horse’s hoof.
Buy my book! Idiots Guide Foraging covers 70 of North America’s tastiest and easy to find wild edibles shown with the same big pictures as here on the Foraging Texas website.

How to use garden weeds in your diet— for taste and health

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Hold on! Before haphazardly ridding your yard or garden of weeds, let’s take a look at just which ones might make for a great addition to a meal.

Edible weeds, though not a new concept, are taking hold and many folks are quite simply surprised at the plethora of ingredients found in kitchens and on tables that are often considered garden and yard nuisances.

Weeds are typically thought of as plant-life that has rooted in places where it is not wanted.

Joseph Taverniti, who served as lieutenant commander in the U.S. Navy, earned a bachelor’s degree in horticulture, owns a six-acre homestead in Escambia County and is both president of the Gulf Coast Chapter of the International Palm Society and a member of the Organic Gardening Club of Pensacola believes most plants that are cultivated today were at one point considered weeds.

“The term weed generally carries a negative connotation,” he said. “I don’t know every plant but I know quite a few, and when I survey the landscape, I see a vast variety of vegetation from minuscule individuals to great trees all filling their niche in the environment. All of them have a purpose and a place.”

He is opposed to the use of chemicals in his garden.

“Why would I want to apply toxic poison to the ground I intend to eat plants from and also kill off the beneficials that contribute to the health of the soil?” he said.

Though he readily acknowledges controlling the proliferation of the uninvited plant life is an ongoing effort, he also points out many of these plants can be quite useful in adding variety to one’s diet for taste and medicinal purposes.

And one doesn’t have to look far to find a bounty of edible weeds. Besides growing wild, many restaurants are infusing weeds into their recipes. Grocery stores, nurseries, vitamin shops and farmer’s markets are also carrying them.

Aside from the flavor profiles that are created with or bolstered by the infusion of weeds, there is the medicinal element.

“Eating the weeds provides an important source of roughage that helps to keep our plumbing in working order which is a major part of our health and well-being, especially as we age,” Taverniti said. “Here along the Gulf Coast, we have winter weeds and summer weeds. I can tell you what time of the year it is by the weeds in my gardens.”

Tiffany Washington is a freelance writer for the News Journal and Bella magazine.

Locally grown weeds

Chanca piedra (phyllanthus niruri) — also known as Gripeweed, it resembles a miniature mimosa tree and the entire plant is edible. The name appropriately translates to “Break Stone” in Spanish due to its use as a treatment for urinary tract infections and dissolving kidney and gallbladder stones.

Chickweed (Stellaria media) — can be eaten raw in salad, on sandwiches or in wraps or cooked in soups and stews. It is high in vitamins A, B and C content and contains anti-inflammatory properties, treats skin issues, provides kidney support and aides in digestion and intestinal support.

Dandelion (Taraxacum sp.) — also known as “Dente de lion,” French for tooth of lion. The edible flowers have a bittersweet taste and are high in beta-carotene content.

Dewberry (Rubus sp.) — sweet and blackberry-like, it can be eaten raw and is often used in dessert dishes like cobbler.

Dollar weed (Hydrocotyle bonariensis) or pennywort — recognized by its slightly bitter leaves that are the size of dollar coin. It can be served in salads, fermented for kraut or kimchi or powdered and sprinkled on food or in tea.

Florida betony (Stachys floridana) — called wild artichoke or rattlesnake weed, it is a member of the mint family and is invasive and perennial. The leaves can be cooked and eaten as greens. It has white, rattlesnake-looking underground tubers that are sweet and crunchy. The leaves that can be dried and used in tea.

Plantain (Plantago major) — young leaves are tender and can be eaten raw in salad; older leaves contain high concentrations of phytochemicals, are tough and need cooking. It is noted for a list of medical benefits (e.g. heal wounds and reduce fever) and can be used in teas, salves and tinctures.

Sheep Sorrel (Rumex acetosella) — leaves have a sour but pleasant taste and it can be added to salads. It has a high vitamin content, is used in essiac tea and is purported to have many health benefits (e.g. anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory properties).

Smilax (Smilax bona-nox) — also referred to as Greenbrier, a thorny vine that is commonly found in wooded areas and has large tuber that grows underground. It tastes like greenbeans and can be sautéed, steamed or eaten raw; great in stir fry or omelettes. It is considered survival food and traditionally roasted and ground by Native Americans and made into flour and flatbread.

Wild Lettuce (Lactuca virosa) — also known as “opium lettuce” due to its pain alleviating properties without the side effects of prescription opioids; smaller leaves resemble dandelions. It can be dried and used in tea or smoked.

Wild onion (Allium tricoccum) — also called wild garlic or meadow garlic, it is eaten raw or cooked and can be sautéed or pickled. It is used in stews or pasta dishes. When the tops are young, they are tender and can be eaten in salads or omelettes.

Wild violets (Viola odorata) — common in residential areas, the darker color indicates more intense sweetness. It can be consumed raw or cooked and used to brighten butter, decorate desserts and sweeten tea.

Wood Sorrel (Oxalis acetosella) — leaves look like three-leaf clovers and it has a small bulb underground. All parts are edible and have a sour lemon taste.

Yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria) — found in the Amazon Rain Forest and locally; leaves make a tea that is called black drink by Native Americans. It contains caffeine and is mildly toxic, thus the species name vomitoria.

SOURCE: Joseph Taverniti

Dollarweed Dilemma

Q: Hi Steve, we have a problem with dollarweed in low parts of our yard that stay wet. We’ve tried some weed killers but even at low concentrations, our St Augustine (much of which is Floratam) the grass seems to be affected more than the weeds. I found a new weed killer “Image” with 4% Atrazine that says it’s safe for all St Augustine grass. Is this safe for Floratam? Is it too late in the season to use it? It seems this time of the year is when the dollarweed really takes off. We don’t water these areas unless we’re into a real drought, so we can’t do much about the wetness. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Don Taylor, Panama City, FL

A: Dollarweed — which gets its name from shiny, green leaves that are the shape and size of silver dollars — is the main scourge of St. Augustine lawns in the Coastal South where the grass stays wet. It’s perennial, spreads rapidly, and hard to pull up. Atrazine is the most effective herbicide to use against it. As long as you follow label directions, it’s safe for St. Augustine.

Unfortunately, atrazine isn’t safe for hardly anything else. It’s soluble in water, so it moves rapidly through the soil following rain or irrigation. When it contacts roots of flowers, shrubs, and trees, it can injure or kill them. It’s very toxic to fish if it gets into a pond or stream. And it has become a major pollutant of groundwater in the South. Many cities now test for it as a contaminant in drinking water. If it were up to me, I’d ban its use entirely.

So what about the dollarweed? Without atrazine, the only thing you can do is water less often, try to get the soil to drain better, and core-aerate your lawn at least once a year to reduce compaction. I have heard some people say they’ve had luck with wetting the dollarweed foliage and then sprinkling baking soda on it, but I’ve never tried it, so I don’t know if it works.

Grumpy

Pennywort, Dollar Weed and Other Woes of Wetness

Q. My gardens and lawn are being taken over by pennywort. How can I get rid of it? Our yard has a lot of toads, lizards, tree frogs, butterflies, and hummingbirds, so I don’t want to use anything toxic. I have tried to control it with Roundup, but nothing kills this stuff! Help!
—-Mary in Beaufort, North Carolina
A. Well unfortunately, that Roundup may have been the most toxic option for this specific situation. Research by Dr. Rick Relyea of the University of Pittsburg has shown Roundup to be deadly to amphibians, like those frogs and toads.
But it’s no surprise that our listener has both a yard full of amphibians and “pennywort” (a plant that’s perhaps better known as dollarweed.) A Clemson University Extension Service Bulletin describes it “as a water-loving plant that can float” and explains that it’s mere presence “indicates excessive moisture in the area.” Heck–the prefix of its scientific name is even ‘Hydro’!
Now, most people know that too much water can kill plants, but many are surprised to hear that wetness can actually encourage a weed. In fact, those two points can combine to create the worst-case scenario in these situations; the extreme moisture levels that encourage plants like dollarweed are also going to weaken just about every desirable plant in the area, especially lawn grasses.
Now, let’s be clear—reducing the moisture will not get rid of this weed completely. Nothing can. Millie Davenport, the Clemson Extension Agent who wrote the Bulletin, wisely states that complete eradication is essentially impossible, even with toxic herbicides. The achievable goal, she notes, is to knock it back to a tolerable level.
And better drainage is absolutely the first step in that direction. Research performed at the University of Florida demonstrated a reduction in dollarweed just by reducing the frequency of watering. {Quote}: “Monitoring moisture levels and evaluating irrigation frequency are the first steps to controlling dollarweed.”
In English, that means turn off your sprinklers! Don’t water if it rained recently. And it especially means to follow the rules of wise watering we’ve been harping on for the past 16 years: “Don’t water if you’ve had an inch of rain within the week. Only water deeply but infrequently. Always let your plants dry out between waterings.”
Now, most sources—including Clemson—agree that the best control in lawns is to start taking care of the lawn correctly…
“Gee—where have I heard that before?”

“I think that loud guy on the radio with the funny accent keeps saying it.”
So, in a Northern lawn, that means never cutting below three inches, feeding only in the Spring and Fall, always returning the clippings to the lawn and—when water-loving weeds like this are present—core aerating in late summer/early fall to improve the drainage.
Ah, but our listener is in North Carolina–where she could still have a cool-season lawn, but more likely it’s a warm-season variety like St. Augustine or Bermuda grass. In that case (warm season), she should cut at the recommended height for her specific variety—generally around two to two and a half inches—only feed during the warm months and aerate in the Spring or early summer.
And in flower beds? Again, first thing is to cut back on the watering. Then pull, whack, and mulch, working small sections at a time to try and regain control. And because our listener’s area sounds really wet, she might want to look at modifying her layout to a rain garden design, where the beds and lawn will become less waterlogged but there will still be nice wet spots for her aquatic wildlife.
Q. Our property is marsh on two sides; it’s my parent’s old house, so I know for certain that the water is rising (or the rest of the town is sinking)–we get fiddler crabs in the yard! We used to have a beautiful St Augustine lawn, but the dollar weed is taking over; it even grows where it gets a saltwater bath twice a day. The only good thing is that our Chesapeake Bay retriever eats the roots I pull out. She holds the plant between her paws and eats it like spaghetti. Very funny to see! Anyway—how does someone with very little time and money to spend get the dang dollar weed out? Or is there a commercial market for the stuff? Is it edible?
—Mary in Morehead City, NC
A. Actually, it is said to be edible. Just be sure you’ve made a correct identification, and don’t harvest it from potentially polluted waters. But more to the point in this soggy situation, St. Augustine is out; it’s a plant of the past. Dollar weed is in; and it’s one of the few things that these rising water levels will allow to grow there.
And for many people it’s a first choice for wet areas. To quote Timber Press’ “Encyclopedia of Water Garden Plants, “there is something cheerful about a plant that remains green from spring through fall and whose serrated leaves look like smiles connected at the corners.”

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What’s that Weed? Dollarweed!

July 5, 2018

Type: Dollarweed, also commonly known as Pennywort, is a summer perennial broadlead weed. Dollarweed is a member of the parsley family, housing numerous different species including: marsh pennywort, coastal plain pennywort, many-flowered pennywort, whorled pennywort to name a few. This weed reproduces from rhizomes (a continuously growing horizontal underground stem that puts off lateral shoots and adventitious roots at intervals), seeds, as well as has tuber plant parts that aid in dollarweed’s propagation.

Where It Grows:Dollarweed can infest many species of turf grass native to North America, particularly in southern regions. Dollarweed thrives in warm, humid climates. Dollarweed is resilient in areas in the southern United States, particularly raging in southern Florida where it can take over St. Augustine lawns. Dollarweed thrives in turf that is weak and thin, especially in: home lawns with poor turf maintenance, golf fairways and roughs, sports and playing fields, as well as industrial grounds. Often, this weed is found in wet to moist areas of turf or anywhere where moisture is in excess.

NOTE: Plant size can adapt to frequent mowing, reducing leaves to 1cm in diameter and expanding to 6-10 cm when un-mowed. This can be commonly seen in fairway management on golf courses.

How to identify: Dollarweed grows low to the ground and has green, glossy leaves that are round with scalloped edges (imagine a lily pad). Some leaves can grow up to the size of a silver dollar—hence the name! The petiole or the stalk that joins a leaf to a stem is long and slender and is attached to the center of the leaf, forming an umbrella-like appearance. During the summer months, clusters of white flowers appear, arranging as elongated spikes or as rounded umbels at the top of a long stalk. The fruit appears greenish in color, rounded and somewhat flattened.

NOTE: Dollarweed can be confused with dichondra. Understand that dicondra’s petiole is attached to the edge of a kidney shaped leaf.

Growing Season: Dollarweed tends to emerge in early summer and can live up to two years!

How to Manage: Because dollarweed reproduces from rhizomes, it’s difficult to kill once it takes hold in the soil. The best method for removing dollarweed is to follow these good cultural methods.. First try to minimize irrigation since dollarweed is a water-loving species. Most turf grass can survive with less moisture than dollarweed can. Second is to maintain a healthy, dense turf with a strong root system and a good lawn fertility/care routine to prevent dollarweed from spreading by rhizomes. Next, ensure the correct mowing height for your turf species and avoid lawn scalping. Finally, establish proper aeration and thatch management practices so dollarweed cannot move into lawns.

For intense dollorweed infestations, use a post-emergent herbicide that contains the active ingredient (AI) Penoxsulam, a proven herbicide control technology that targets dollarweed (among other weeds as well). Apply the post-emergent in spring (NOTE: Avoid the use of herbicides in the heat of summer, as they will cause more stress to turf). Once applied, DO NOT mow or cut back the dollarweed in any way; allow the herbicide to absorb into the shoot tissue so that it may be transported down to the roots. Because dollarweed is an invasive, tough weed to control throughout the growing season, repeat applications of post-emergent herbicides can be done in both spring and fall. Continue as necessary and follow all label application instructions.

NOTE: Be sure to know your grass type prior to applying any herbicidecontrol product on turf! Certain AI’s will have adverse effects to certain lawn types. Read the full product label to make sure the product can be used for the turf grass species needed to be treated. Contact a local lawn care expert to help identify turf species in your region.

To view TurfCare™ post-emergent products, download the Product Catalog for more information.

for more information on locating your local distributor.

Images (will be deleted after posted – for my reference):

Dollar weed is usually found in moist areas in gardens and lawns. It pops up suddenly, taking the lawn over and making it look unattractive. Although Dollar Weed may look lovely and decorative, this weed mostly annoys gardeners because it grows fast and tends to invade an entire backyard in a short time. If you think that Dollar Weed is ruining your lawn or garden, here’s the guide on how to control its excessive growth or to get rid of it completely.

Dollarweed/Pennywort

What Is Dollar Weed?

Dollar Weed or Pennywort (Hydrocotyle umbellata) is a broad-leaf weed that thrives in wet areas. This plant looks somewhat like a miniature lily pad – it grows up to 6 inches. It has small, rounded leaves with a stem coming from the center of the leaf. The coin-like, dark-green and glossy leaves can grow approximately one inch in diameter, and they look like small umbrellas.

Dollar weed grows in warm temperate regions and its native habitats are North America and some parts of South America. It is usually found at the edges of ponds, lakes, canals, and riverbanks, but it can also appear in moist, boggy areas of lawns and gardens as an invasive and noxious weed.

Although Dollar Weed looks lovely it is despised because of its invasive nature. It spreads quickly, both by seeds and underground roots. With its creeping growth habit, it may spread as much as 20 feet.

The main culprits in Dollar Weed invasions are poor drainage and over-irrigating. Dollar Weed is likely to appear in areas where the soil is constantly moist, but it tends to overtake the lawn if the grass is weak and unhealthy.

However, since the plant is difficult to eliminate and control, you should consider combining several methods. Prevention is also an important part of dealing with this invasive weed.

Dollarweed/Pennywort Climbing On Stones

Organic Methods to Get Rid of Dollar weed

You should consider some cultural and organic methods first to get rid of Dollar Weed. Here’s how you can manage to get a nice and green, weed-free grass lawn.

First, try to improve the drainage in your backyard. If you have any drainage issues, try to fix them. Try simple fixes first like improving your clay soil or extending the downspout, or you can add a drainage pipe to get rid of the excess water.

Reduce irrigation if possible. This step will not kill Dollar Weed, but it will reduce moisture in the soil, making the conditions of Dollar Weed unfavorable.

You should also try to improve your grass. As previously said, Dollar Weed easily overtakes a weak and unhealthy lawn, so check your grass for infections, diseases, and insects. A healthy, thick lawn is a crucial factor in weeds treatment. Week grass could be a result of a nutrient imbalance or other soil problems.

Hand-pulling is a quite effective method, but only if you pull the root out, so pull out the Dollar Weed whenever you can, especially if you spot young plants. This method can be unfeasible in large areas.

If you want an organic, safe solution rather than a chemical treatment, try to apply a vinegar to Dollar Weed. The higher the percentage of acids in the vinegar, the higher possibility of killing Dollar Weed. Use this organic weed killer on a dry, hot day, so the rain can’t wash the vinegar off the leaves.

The acetic acid in the vinegar will make the leaves unable to produce a food for the plant, so the plant will eventually die. A very strong vinegar can kill a plant in only few hours, but it usually takes a week or two to eliminate the weed.

You can add a lemon juice into the vinegar to make it more effective. However, be careful when using this homemade herbicide because the acid can hurt your skin or eyes.

Another natural solution is pouring boiling water on areas covered with Dollar Weed. Try not to damage nearby desirable plants.

Some people say that baking soda is an effective weed killer, especially when it comes to Dollar Weed. Mix it with water and sprinkle the leaves. Baking soda is safe for your grass, but it will kill any weeds.

Dollarweed/Pennywort Patch

Chemical Methods to Remove Dollar Weed

Sometimes when all else fails, you may need to use a chemical method to control and eliminate Dollar Weed.

A herbicide such as Quali-Pro MSM Turf Herbicide should be applied while Dollar Weed is still actively growing. It is quite effective in spring because young plants are more vulnerable.

Chemicals are effective tools for managing unwanted weeds because the application of a herbicide will stop chemical processes such as photosynthesis, protein production, or root growth, crucial for the plant development.

Choose a herbicide that is safe for the grass in your lawn. The following herbicides are said to effectively remove Dollar Weed:

  • Monument
  • Manor
  • Blade
  • Atrazine
  • Imazaquin

However, check with your local nursery if you’re not sure what herbicide you should use in order to remove Dollar Weed without harming your grass lawn and garden plants.

Is Dollar Weed Edible?

Believe it or not, widely despised Dollar weed is one of those plants of our urban settings that is actually edible. While many gardeners and homeowners are constantly trying to get rid of it, some people make a delicacy of it.

It can be eaten raw or cooked, but it’s mainly used as a salad. Those who have tried it say the taste of Dollar weed reminds of celery.

However, if you want to have a bite of this weed, be sure to make a correct identification before deciding to consume it. It’s often mistaken for Dichondra, but the main difference is in a stem. Dichondra’s stem is attached at the edge of the leaf, while Dollar Weed’s stem grows directly from the center of the leaf.

Also, don’t eat it if it grows in contaminated conditions and wash it thoroughly if a herbicide has been applied to the weed in order to control it.

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