- Star Jasmine As Ground Cover: Information About Star Jasmine Plants
- Growing Star Jasmine Vine
- How and When To Plant Star Jasmine in the Garden
- Trachelospermum asiaticum
- Plant of the week 5.2 – 5.6 ~ Star Jasmine/Trachelospermum jasminoides
- How fast does trachelospermum jasminoides grow – would love appreciate advice and opinions please?
- Plant Of The Month: Trachelospermum jasminoides AKA Star Jasmine
- Star Jasmine
- Planting and Care
- Planting star jasmine
- Pruning and caring for star jasmine
- Learn more about star jasmine
- Smart tip about star jasmine
- Read also
- Star Jasmine Plant Care
- Climate and Soil
- Light and Temperature
Star Jasmine As Ground Cover: Information About Star Jasmine Plants
Also called Confederate jasmine, star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is a vine that produces highly fragrant, white blossoms that attract bees. Native to China and Japan, it does very well in California and the southern U.S., where it provides excellent ground cover and climbing decoration. Keep reading to learn about growing star jasmine vine in your garden.
Growing Star Jasmine Vine
Gardeners in warm climates (USDA Zones 8-10) can grow star jasmine as ground cover, where it will overwinter. This is ideal, as star jasmine can be slow to grow at first and may take some time to get established.
Once mature, it will reach a height and spread of 3 to 6 feet. Prune any upward reaching shoots to maintain an even height. In addition to ground cover, star jasmine plants climb well and can be trained to grow on trellises, doorways, and posts to make for beautiful, fragrant decorations.
In areas any cooler than Zone 8, you should plant your star jasmine in a pot that can be brought inside during the colder months, or treat it as an annual.
Once it gets going, it will bloom most in the spring, with more sporadic blooming throughout the summer. The blossoms are pure white, pinwheel shaped, and beautifully perfumed.
How and When To Plant Star Jasmine in the Garden
Star jasmine care is very minimal. Star jasmine plants will grow in a variety of soils, and though they bloom best in full sun, they do well in partial shade and will even tolerate heavy shade.
Space your star jasmine plants five feet apart if you’re using them as ground cover. Star jasmine can be planted at any time, usually as cuttings propagated from another plant.
It’s disease and pest hardy, though you may see trouble from Japanese beetles, scales, and sooty mold.
Phonetic Spelling tray-kee-low-SPER-mum ay-see-AT-ih-kum Description
Asian star jasmine is a, quick-growing bird-friendly groundcover that has beautiful fragrant flowers and year-round interest. Asian star jasmine can be damaged by cold in severe winters but it is hardier than Confederate Jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides. It may be used in the front of the border, to fill difficult sized planters or as coverage on banks and slopes. It looks exceptional twining up chain link fence, trellis, or arbor in back of some colorful lantana (Lantana camera) or cascading out of hanging baskets. Use it as a groundcover with tall shrubs such as rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos) or with the sword-like foliage of New Zealand flax (Phormium tenax).
This groundcover is moderately salt tolerant.
Wildlife Value: Attracts songbirds. This plant is resistant to damage by deer.
Cultivars / Varieties:
- ‘Bronze Beauty’
- ‘Long Leaf’
- ‘Summer Sunset’
Tags: #evergreen#container plant#wildlife plant#salt tolerant#low maintenance#slopes#year-round interest#hanging baskets#deer resistant#woodland#border front#bird friendly
Plant of the week 5.2 – 5.6 ~ Star Jasmine/Trachelospermum jasminoides
Gachina Landscape Management
2 days ago
This is a picture of a property that we maintain in Hayward, CA. Natural pruning techniques were used to achieve the layered aesthetic that you see here. At Gachina we encourage the natural pruning habit because it causes the plants less stress. Less stress means the plant is less prone to diseases and pests. A win-win for our clients and the plants!
Some of the plants seen here are: Ceanothus, Coleonema, Rosemary Tuscany Blue, and Polygala.
Why Natural Shrub Pruning is Better
Natural shrub pruning preserves the natural shape and density of plants. Each shrub has its own natural growth shape. Why make all shrubs look alike? With natural shrub pruning, branches are pruned one at a time with hand pruners and loppers (with long handles – for larger branches). Pruning begins when shrubs are small, before they have outgrown their planting area and block windows or walkways. This may only require shortening one or two branches the first time.
Branches are cut inside or below the leaf surface where other smaller branches hide the stubs.
Instead of pruning branch tips, they are cut back to a side branch or removed entirely, keeping the same density of plant growth.
Lower branches are shortened less (or not at all) than upper branches, which keeps the shrub full and leafy clear to the ground.
Because many fewer branches are cut (especially after several prunings) the difference in pruning time becomes negligible.
The natural shape of the shrub is retained because branches are deliberately cut at different lengths
blogs.columbian.com/gardening-with-allen/2012/05/06/what-is-natural-shrub-pruning/ … See MoreSee Less
When grown in pots, Star jasmine requires nothing more than a good quality potting mix (Pot Power is the best by far) and regular fertilising with Organic Life, Osmocote, Nitrosol or Harvest. Remember that when potted jasmine has clung to lattice it is going to be very difficult to repot, so it is wise to choose the largest pot possible and the longest lasting mix to allow for future growth.
Trach. Jas, suffers from very few pest & diseases if grown well. Occasional aphid outbreaks are easily fixed with almost any garden insecticide (or soapy water), and in the rare circumstance of mite attack, more frequent spraying with Bug Guard or Neem Oil may be required.
Star Jasmine has a few relatives, including at least two variegated varieties, but its favoured cousin is the fantastic prostrate T. asiaticum. This variety doesn’t flower nearly as well as Trach jas, but is great as a low growing groundcover, with new growth that has both lime green and burnished autumn tones, making for a stunning look set against the dark green mature leaves. T. asiaticum is seen to best effect as either a groundcover, or spilling over a wall or pot. It is just as if not more hardy than the more common star jasmine, and is a personal favourite of mine. Also exquisite is the much slower growing Trach jas ‘Tricolour’, showing variegated leaves in green & white, with new growth a delicious pink colour.
How fast does trachelospermum jasminoides grow – would love appreciate advice and opinions please?
In November of last year I planted a Trachelospermum Jasminoide plant from my local garden centre in my back garden against a south facing wall (the wall is only knee high and then there is a fence and trellis above it. It is currently 32inches high with lovely red leaves, but doesn’t seem to have grown much yet (my husband says to be patient everything is going on under the soil!) I’m in Hampshire on the south coast with a small town garden laid to lawn with flower borders. The reason I plant it was to create privacy and screening against the next door neighbours (down to a fall out last year and lots of bad feeling caused by their building work for an ugly great big extension, no planning permission & cowboys doing everything evenings and weekends, however, I digress!) The trellis only takes the boundary to about 6ft which is why I’m anxious to cut them out privacy/screening, otherwise it just feels as though their ‘in my face’ IYKWIM and I don’t want to see them at all!
Can anyone tell me how long it should take this twining climber to grow to about 6 feet and then I can train it along the fence/trellis for extra cover. Also does it drop leaves like other plants, don’t want leaves dropping on neighbours side – or them moaning about it and cutting it back (sorry, I’m a gardening novice!).
I would be tempted to plant tall conifer trees like leylandii and add some barbed wire, but husband won’t allow it, lol. Would appreciate your help and feedback
Plant Of The Month: Trachelospermum jasminoides AKA Star Jasmine
Botanical Name: Trachelospermum jasminoides
Common Name: Star Jasmine, Confederate jasmine, Confederate jessamine, Chinese star jasmine
Climate: Will do well in most climates within Australia as it can adapt to hot and cold climates.
Soil: Suitable to most soil types, however, will perform best in rich, well-drained soil.
Sun: Full sun to part shade. Star Jasmine can even handle full shade however they produce the best blooms in full sun.
Water: Water well until established, once established the plant is moderately drought tolerant.
Uses: The beauty of Star Jasmine is the versatility it can be used as a low hedge, for screening, natural sound barrier, groundcover, trellis, over a pergola.. the options are endless. The flowers are beautiful star-shaped with a heavenly fragrance.
Current Size: 15-20 cm tall
Recommended Spacing: For fast results plant 75cm apart or 1-1.5m apart if you have time and patience.
Growth Rate: Fast if in ideal conditions.
Maintenance: Star Jasmine is a low maintenance plant. You can give it a trim if it starts going in directions you don’t want it going. The best time to prune is after it flowers.
Star jasmine is an intoxicatingly fragrant vine that is grown widely in the Southeast. Its versatile nature makes it a great plant for many settings.
Star jasmine has an old common name, Confederate jasmine, but this plant is not native to the Southeast, nor is it a true jasmine. It is actually native to China and is known scientifically as Trachelospermum jasminoides.
In early spring and summer, star jasmine produces clusters of small, white flowers that look like tiny pinwheels (or stars). Despite their diminutive size, the flowers pack a huge punch of sweet fragrance and can easily perfume an entire yard.
Star jasmine is a fast-growing, twining vine that can be grown on lamp posts, trellises, or arbors. It will easily twine through chain link fences and makes a great, evergreen screen. It will not climb on masonry walls unless a support structure is added.
Take care if planting star jasmine near trees, as its energetic tendrils can quickly reach heights where they may be difficult to prune.
Some sources recommend star jasmine as a ground cover, but keep in mind that it’s a vigorous grower and may not work well in all situations. A great alternative groundcover is Asiatic jasmine (T. asiaticum), though it rarely blooms.
Planting and Care
Star jasmine can be planted throughout Florida and prefers well-drained locations that receive full or partial sun. Plants grown in full sun will produce the most flowers.
Be sure to provide plants with adequate space, since vines can grow twenty feet or more if left unpruned. Pinching back the tips of the vines will encourage branching and produce fuller plants.
Star jasmine does respond well to pruning and can even be shaped as a small hedge or espalier. The sap of the plant is quite sticky and can stain clothing, so be sure to clean tools and any soiled clothing promptly after pruning.
Star jasmine is relatively pest free and drought resistant, making it a great plant for many Southern landscapes.
For more information on star jasmine, contact your county Extension office.
Also on Gardening Solutions
- Asiatic Jasmine
- Fragrance Gardens
- Moonlight Gardens
- Versatile Vines
Don’t turn your back on the not-so-popular plants, they can turn into heroes in a gappy garden
It’s funny how you can loathe a particular plant for a long time and then see it in a different situation and discover its merit. A bit like young love, I suppose, when one day you see the boy with the stick-out ears and scabby knees rescuing a cat from a tree and suddenly he’s your hero.
My equivalent of the stick-out-ears boy is Coprosma Green Rocks. I’ve never been a fan of any kind of coprosma and when The Landscaper presented me with a couple of these glossy green ground covers he had left over from a job, I gave him a withering look and threw them grumpily down behind the railway sleeper wall.
A few weeks later they had taken root, had spread out to about 50cm and sent a few tendrils cautiously over the sleeper.
Quite fetching, I thought. Certainly more fetching than their cousin Coprosma Hawera, which always looks as if it’s on death’s door, and worse, is apparently attractive to rats.
It’s not easy to find the perfect ground cover and I often wonder why we make new garden beds which, once the soil is exposed, require immediate planting to stop them filling themselves with weeds.
While I’m pleased to have made my peace with Green Rocks, it’s not ideal for every situation.
It’s quite an in-your-face sort of plant with quite big, glossy green leaves, and it’s semi-prostrate so it doesn’t just lie on the soil like a mat.
So I wouldn’t plant it with anything subtle or delicate, or it’ll steal the show.
Give it a crappy old bank, though, and it’ll do the job beautifully. It’s vigorous and hardy, tolerates poor, dry or sandy conditions, coastal spray, sun or shade.
How could I not have seen beyond its stick-out-ears before now, I’ll never know.
I’ve never loved that good old favourite Grevillea Bronze Rambler either, probably because, like Coprosma Hawera, it tends to look dried up and ready to check out.
On the contrary though, it’s a real survivor.
It’s used to making do with little food, poor soil and drought and it’s incredibly adaptable. It’s got great coverage and when it’s in flower, which is a lot of the time, you can forgive it anything.
One of my real favourites, and I hesitate to admit this because my eco-warrior friend has threatened all sorts of dire consequences if I plant any more, is agapanthus.
No, not the naughty one, but a beautiful dwarf that provides sky blue blooms for months. It grows in most conditions, sun to semi-shade and is hardy to frost, and it really is a minimum-effort, maximum-impact plant to grow. I can vouch for it whole-heartedly because it’s planted around the perimeter of our carpark area, where it’s completely shaded by a gang of rampant acmena and only sees the sun during their annual pruning. Even such a dreary location doesn’t stop it from flowering with enthusiasm.
Star Jasmine is truly a star ground cover, it grows quickly, flowers for ages and has a lovely scent.
Star Jasmine is another ground cover whose name makes people nervous, but it’s not related to the true jasmine, which is known for its invasive behaviour.
This one is Trachelospermum jasminoides, which grows into rather disorganised clumps and sends out lots of long tendrils which you can either train or snip off. It likes sun but will tolerate shade. If you give it plenty of water in summer and serve it up some good organic fertiliser it should stay nice and lush.
We used to have a ground cover in Dunedin called aluminium plant which covered a multitude of sins, but I think it’s on the naughty list now.
No, it’s not the naughty aluminium plant but Lamium maculatum, which has pink/lavender flowers and very delicate grey-green foliage.
However, it has a lookalike called Lamium maculatum, a tough, evergreen perennial that forms a spreading patch of small silver leaves with a narrow green edge.
Happily it has pink flowers, not yellow like the aluminium plant, and it flowers off and on from spring until autumn. Once established it’s good for dry shade, and the stems will root into the ground where they touch. New plants that form can be easily moved elsewhere.
That’s my idea of the perfect ground cover. Why it would have the common name of deadnettle I really can’t imagine.
Spreading herbs fill the gaps
Typically, I bought a whole box of herbs a while ago in the expectation that the vegetable garden would miraculously weed and prepare itself for planting while I was doing something else. It didn’t.
Also typically, I couldn’t bear to waste them so I planted them in the still slightly gappy front garden – a work in progress – and they’ve excelled themselves as ground covers. Four different kinds of thyme have covered about 30sq cm each so far, and the oregano is going mad.
I’ve also slotted in a few parsley plants, having been inspired by a mass (and massive) planting of them at the Dunedin railway station a few years ago. They like the front garden far better than the herb garden and they’re really pretty.
Herbs are great ground covers and gap fillers. They’re cheap, they grow quickly, they’re not invasive, they smell good, they flower, you can eat them, and give bits of them away. Now I’m planting chives, dill, chamomile, marjoram, sorrel and sage in the gaps all over the garden. The Landscaper is hopeful that this may lead to more inspired cooking.
Star jasmine or false jasmine is a very beautiful fragrant climbing vine that blooms all summer long.
Summary of Star jasmine facts
Name – Trachelospermum jasminoides
Family – Apocynceae or dogbane
Type – climbing shrub
Height – 16 feet (5 m)
Exposure – full sun
Soil – well-drained
Foliage – evergreen
Flowering – June to October
If you’re looking for advice on winter jasmine, often used for growing indoors, .
Planting star jasmine
Planting, care or pruning must all follow good practices to increase the blooming.
Star jasmine is planted indifferently in fall or in spring.
- Apart from these two periods, avoid at any cost days of high temperatures or of freezing cold.
Make the most of its smooth jasmine fragrance, and set it up near a passageway or a window so that you may benefit from it with all your senses, not only the eyes!
- Follow our advice on planting shrubs.
Preparing star jasmine cuttings is rather easy, it is performed in spring.
- Find our guidelines on preparing cuttings
Pruning and caring for star jasmine
Rather straightforward, caring for star jasmine can even be left to minimum care once the plant is correctly settled in.
Caring for star jasmine
Star jasmine is a plant that doesn’t depend on much care, especially when it is properly settled in.
Drought occurring within the first two years after planting is the only reason you’ll need to water it.
Adding flower plant fertilizer in spring will enhance your star jasmine’s blooming.
Pruning star jasmine
- No pruning is formally required but an annual makeover at the end of winter will enhance blooming.
- If you wish to balance the shape or reduce the size of your plant, do it at the end of winter or at the very beginning of spring.
Learn more about star jasmine
Star jasmine, native to Asia and sometimes called Indian jasmine, earned its name from the fragrance that smells a lot like jasmine that emanates from its blooming.
Its inflorescence is very beautiful and its evergreen leafage lasts all year long.
This very beautiful climbing shrub is easy to care for and maintaining it is a breeze.
It is perfectly suited to covering a wall, but also makes for great ground cover or pot arrangement material.
Note that if you grow it in a pot it will stay small.
At the beginning, attach your star jasmine to a lattice because it has trouble starting off, but afterwards it will wind around on its own.
Smart tip about star jasmine
If you’re hoping for it to climb, help it out at the beginning because it isn’t quite good at attaching itself at the start.
- Fragrant climbing plants
- Different types of jasmine
- Common or medicinal jasmine
- Potato vine, the false jasmine
Star Jasmine Plant Care
jasmin image by saied shahinkiya from Fotolia.com
Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is a fragrant, evergreen climbing vine that thrives in mild climates. This fast-growing vine, also called confederate jasmine, can reach heights of 40 feet if supported on a trellis, tree or other structure. The small, white star-shaped flowers bloom in the spring and have a pleasing scent. Star jasmine can survive a vigorous pruning — home gardeners often prune the vine into a shrub shape rather than letting it climb.
Climate and Soil
Star jasmine grows best in USDA growing zones 8 through 10. Cold weather can quickly kill the vine, so home gardeners who appreciate the plant’s beauty and fragrance but live in cooler climates can plant star jasmine in a container. Whether in the ground or in a pot, the soil should be rich in organic matter and well-draining. Clay soil, for example, holds water and is not good for this plant. Instead, choose loose, loamy soil (amend your garden soil with leaf mold for best results) or use a potting soil that has a large amount of peat moss and sand.
Light and Temperature
Star jasmine needs bright sunlight to bloom, but direct, hot sunlight will scorch the leaves. For this reason, exposure to morning sun and dappled afternoon shade works best. Indoors, potted star jasmine plants thrive in curtain-filtered sunlight during hot periods, and a minimum of four hours of direct sunlight in the winter. Evening temperatures should be between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit (indoor plants may need to be moved to a garage) while daytime temperatures in the low 70s Fahrenheit are perfect for this vine.
Star jasmine is drought-resistant, but like most vines, it grows best if the soil is kept moist and cool during the hot growing season. Star jasmine should receive regular waterings if you want the vine to thrive. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Slow, drip-watering is best. In the winter, when the vine goes dormant, reduce the amount of water and let the soil dry out a bit.
Star jasmine plants are climbers. If they do not have support, they will creep along the ground or trail out of containers. To maintain the plant in a neat, bushy shape, pinch off the tips of new growth, which will encourage the plant to leaf out more. After the flowers fade, prune them away. This will also help contain the plant.
Star jasmine plants do not necessarily need fertilizing. If you see the leaves of the vine turning yellow, however, this could be a sign that the plant is lacking in nutrients. This usually happens on new growth in the spring. Give the jasmine a feeding of a fertilizer formulated for blooming climbing plants according to the direction on the label. One application in the spring should be sufficient.