How to grow bulbs?

How does the tulip grow

How does the tulip grow?

The tulip is a beautiful flower, which is available in many different colors and heights. From April to the end of May the Dutch tulip fields are in bloom, this wonderful picture attracts a lot of attention, every single year. The tulips also contribute to tourism and the worldwide reputation of Holland as a flower bulb supplier.

But what does the growth process of a tulip actually look like?

When are the tulip bulbs planted?
Tulips belong to the group of autumn bulbs. This means that these bulbs will be planted in fall: October and November. The tulips bloom in the early spring. The earlier the tulip grower plants the bulbs, the faster the tulip bulbs will develop into “sprouts”. The soil is still fairly warm in the fall. When planted early, the bulbs will be more resistant to the coming period with frost. If the frost is already in the ground, or the soil is still very wet, it is wise not to plant tulip bulbs, chances are that the bulbs will not survive and rot.

Which tulip bulbs will be planted?
The tulip bulbs are sorted from small to large, the grower decides what size bulbs he wants to plant and which part of his bulbs are sold. For example, tulip bulbs from size 4 to about size 10 go back to their own soil. The larger bulbs, from size 10 to 13, the better they are for sale. Or these large bulbs will be used to grow a tulip in the hatchery during the winter.

How is the tulip bulb planted?
The grower plants the tulip bulbs about 15 centimeters deep. This depth has also been chosen to protect the bulb from frost. If the bulbs are not planted deep enough, there is a chance that the frost will reach the tulip bulbs and that the tulip will not have enough strength to grow out of the soil during its flowering period. But the frost also brings something good. The cold period ensures that the tulip bulbs develop strong roots. For a good root, it is important that the soil is airy and does not stay wet for too long. Too wet soil causes the bulbs to suffocate and then rot.

The tulip bulbs are planted in nets. This is a well-functioning system to easily get the tulips out of the ground when they are ready. The tulip grower scatters extra nutrients (fertilizer) on his soil in the winter. This gives the plant sufficient nutrition to allow the tulip to bloom fully in the spring.

Spring has arrived
The winter is over, the first tulips emerge from the ground in March. The tulip grower starts fighting fungi for which the tulip is susceptible. Fighting these fungi is crucial. If this does not happen and one of the tulips becomes infected with the fungal infection, it can go very fast and infect a large proportion of all tulips. The tulip grower is also starting to select preventively for viruses. The weaker plants, or plants that already have a virus, are removed. These plants are recognized by a lack of leaves or flowers.

Headding the tulips
The headding of the tulips usually start at the end of April. The tulips are now fully grown and have made enough crop to pass on the energy to the bulb. This is what the tulip grower is waiting for, because, when the tulip is headed, only the stems and leaves are left on the field. This is where the food is made for the bulb. The stem provides nutrition from the sun (called photosynthesis) to the tulip bulb. From that moment on the tulip bulb needs a lot of water to grow well. The process, in which the tulip bulb is supplied with food from the stem and fully grown into a beautiful large bulb, takes about 6 weeks. The stem that has supplied the bulb with nutrition in recent weeks will turn yellow and dies quietly.

Picking up tulip bulbs
The moment is there. The tulip bulb is ripe enough, the tulip grower starts taking the bulbs out of the ground, “grubbing up.” This happens always between mid-June and the end of July. The harvested bulbs are driven to the shed and will be dried and cleaned. The tulip grower also removes the young bulbs from the bigger bulbs. That cleaning is called “peeling”. The large bulbs, if sold abroad, are washed so that no bacteria or fungi are left behind.

The smaller balls are stored, so that they can be planted in the ground again when Autumn falls. The tulip grower has gained a lot of experience over the years and has created the ideal climate in his shed in which the tulip bulb is best preserved.

Sales and exports
The large tulip bulbs are sold to trading companies that package the bulbs and then sell them to garden centers, hardware stores and chain stores. You can buy them there to plant in your own garden.

The largest part of the tulip bulbs is exported and goes around the whole world. There are many tulip lovers in America, Asia and the Middle East who enjoy these Dutch tulip bulbs!

All About Tulips, Varieties, Flower Forms & How to Plant – Easy to Grow Bulbs

Growing Tulips – Tulip Flower Forms, When to Plant Tulips and How

Tulips are among the world’s favorite flowers, whether to grow, gift, receive, photograph, paint or display – and one of the most recognized. The classic egg shaped blooms add elegance and sophistication to the garden or the vase. But tulips offer so much more than this, with extraordinary flower forms, unfolding stars, ruffles, peony forms, lily forms, fringes, bunches and fragrance! Let’s explore the wild world of tulips together!

Classic Dutch Tulips

The classic Dutch tulip is where the world’s love affair with tulips begins. Tall, statuesque and bred for the highly symmetrical, oval shaped flowers in a wide range of colors that includes all but a truly blue shade, tulips have become the very emblem of spring. Featured heavily in the art world since the mid-1600’s, tulips also inspire beauty and fashion. Many people associate this flower form with tulips so strongly, they are surprised to learn that tulips produce any other flower form.

The extensive breeding of tulips has led to a decreased vigor, leading gardeners to replant their classic tulip bulbs every other year or so. The species tulips are far more reliable in repeat blooms year after year.

Species Tulips, aka Wild Tulips

If the classic Dutch tulip inspired the world’s passion for tulips, this short (5-6″) starry bloom is where the tulip story truly begins. This is what tulips looked like when they were first discovered growing on dry hillsides of what became modern day Turkey, and their bright blooms and intriguing star-like form enchanted the Ottoman Empire more than 1,000 years ago.

Species tulips, or wild tulips bloom in a rainbow of colors and bi-colors, and are typically far hardier than the Dutch tulips, and some even thrive in warmer climate gardens, needing little winter chill. For carefree tulips that come back every spring bigger and better – plant species tulips!

Double Tulips, aka Peony Tulips

When the Dutch started breeding tulips, they found them remarkably amenable to changing the flower form. In addition to the classic egg shaped bloom we all know and love, there are many different forms that are equally fabulous! This is the double tulip, with instead of a single layer of 6 petals, these flowers feature 3 or more layers of petals giving a very full flower form that is often referred to as peony tulips. It is interesting that most peony tulips are in fact, fragrant, furthering the resemblance. The image above is of Tulip Black Hero – my very favorite for the black tulip varieties.

Parrot Tulips

The astonishing, flamboyant blooms of the parrot tulips sport ruffles and flourishes to the petals along with colorful flares and flames. These spectacular blooms are the result of Dutch breeders taking advantage of the beautiful effects of a damaging virus that arose in the mid 1600’s. Careful cross breeding developed healthy tulips with the striking color breaks first seen in the diseased Viceroy and Semper Augustus of Tulipomania fame.

Parrot tulips today are completely healthy and truly unforgettable in the spring garden! Particularly effective when planted with a classic tulip of a complimenting color. Add drama to your garden and your vase – plant parrot tulips!

Viridiflora Tulips, aka Green Tulips

Viridiflora tulips or green tulips, sport green streaks and flares on their petals, a slightly quieter appeal compared to the parrot tulips above. These stylish green tulips have an exceptionally long bloom on particularly sturdy stems, outstanding both in the garden and the vase, looking their best for three weeks and more!

Lily Flowered Tulips

Lily flowered tulips form slim flowers with elongated, pointed and recurved petals quite late in the tulip blooming season. Taller than most tulips, these varieties end the tulip season in style with blooms that open wide like an Oriental lily, often fragrant, too. Such a spectacular finale to the season of tulips in your garden, these are also exceptional cut flowers!

How to Plant & Grow Tulip Bulbs
Start with Great Quality Tulip Bulbs

All of the tulip flowers and leaves you will see in your spring garden are already tucked away inside each bulb you plant this fall! Proper planting and care will enable them to bloom and to thrive, but If you want the best flowers, you need to start with great bulbs! 🙂

When to Plant Tulip Bulbs

Tulips should be planted in the cooling soils of fall, a good six weeks prior to the ground freezing through for the winter. Tulips will do best where the climate gets sufficiently cold in winter to meet their needs, climate zones 3-8 with some species tulips thriving in zones 9 and 10.

Sun Exposure for Tulips

You can plant tulips in partial shade, but for the best performance, select a site that gets full sun for at least six hours. Be sure to take advantage of space under deciduous trees that are still bare when the tulips are growing.

Planting Depth and Spacing for Tulip Bulbs

Tulips thrive in damp, nutritionally rich soil that drains well. Plant tulip bulbs with the pointed end facing up. Most tulips should be planted at 6 inches deep in most climates, and 8 inches deep in more mild winter climates, to give the bulbs a bit cooler experience. The smaller species tulip bulbs should be planted 3 inches deep in most climates, and 4 inches deep where winters are really mild. Allow 3-4 inches between species tulip bulbs, and 4-5 inches between the larger tulip varieties.

Watering Tulips

Once you have planted your tulip bulbs, consult a weather forecast. If no rain is expected for the next week to 10 days, water your freshly planted tulip bulbs well. From then til spring, water only when the soil is dry and no rain fall is expected.

Tulip Care After Blooming

Tulips are beautiful and very easy to grow! But getting these blooms to repeat year after year is not as straightforward as most flower bulbs. Tulips are native to a climate with cold, frozen winters and hot, dry summers. If your climate matches this – you will enjoy repeat performances from all the tulips you plant! Be sure to leave their bed completely dry during the summer. Where summers are more mild, or summer rain is common, your tulips will not rebloom as well, and should be replanted every few years.

Do not cut off the tulip’s foliage while it is still green. Feel free to cut the flower stem for the vase, or to remove the spent blooms, but leave the foliage intact until it is fully yellowed and beginning to brown. These leaves and the nutrients they provide through photosynthesis are necessary to build the blooms for the following season.

Tulips are such gorgeous flowers and so easy to grow, any beginner can get spectacular results the first time they plant a tulip bulb! Just remember that wildlife enjoys tulips almost as much as we gardeners do! If you live where deer or raccoons, squirrels or rabbits are a problem, take that into consideration.

Tulips flower in even more forms than those detailed above! What are your favorite tulip styles? Will you be planting tulips this year? I would love to know! Please take a moment to leave a comment and let me know your tulip plans for this spring!

Happy Gardening!

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Do you have a blank spot that needs filling or a border that needs a little pizazz? Tropical summer bulbs are a quick fix. Corms and tubers planted in spring will grow by leaps and bounds during the summer bringing color, pattern and texture to the garden.

Many summer bulbs have lovely blooms, but look at the foliage too. The patterns, textures, and sizes create interest without much maintenance.

Rex Begonia – One of the most interesting plants when it comes to fabulous looking foliage. Available in shades of greens, white, burgundy, red, pink, silver and deep maroon-black. The patterns are almost endless. There are spirals, concentric circles, dots, stripes and shields. In addition to these variations there are different leaf shapes, textures, and stem colors. With names like Escargot, Iron Cross, Fireworks, Denver Lace, Capricorn, Miami Storm, Fire Flush and Mimi Boston how could you go wrong?

Hardy to zones 10 and 11, these plants prefer shady, humid conditions and rich, aerated soil with plenty of organic matter. Too much water and fertilizer and you will have a very unhappy plant. Soggy soil will lead to rot and high fertilizer will burn the foliage.

Calla Lily (Zantedeschia)– Grown mostly for its Art Deco style flower that blooms white, pastels, vibrant red, purple or yellow with a very narrow red margin. While the flowers are quite beautiful, the upright glossy leaves are what I am drawn to. In addition to bright green some varieties boast foliage with white centers, polka dots or green and yellow stripes.

Hardy to zone 9 an ample layer of mulch applied in the fall can get these plants through winter in zone 8 or possibly zone 7 where the temperature is not likely to fall below 10 degrees F. Otherwise dig the rhizomes when frost threatens and store them indoors or bring in the plant to grow as a houseplant. Calla Lilies like a moist, almost wet soil and warm temperatures and will grow in full sun (partial afternoon shade in the South.)

Canna – With its large, majestic stature and foliage, the beautiful blossoms of these plants almost go unnoticed. The tropical looking foliage with its large leaves, upright growth and interesting colors make a huge statement in the garden. Look for foliage that is purple, purple with green veining, yellow and green stripes and one of the most striking I have seen has burgundy, green, yellow and red/orange stripes. A few varieties I like include ‘Tropicana’, ‘King Humbert’, ‘Pretoria’ and ‘Black Knight’.

Hardy to zone 7, cannas grow from a rhizomatous rootstock that allows it to spread slowly outward from where it is planted. They prefer full sun in most locations but partial shade in regions where sunlight is intense may help keep the flowers from bleaching out or the foliage tips from burning. Cannas prefer a rich soil high in organic matter that drains well but stays consistently moist. They are heavy feeders. If your cannas begin to look ratty, it’s a sure sign that it needs to be fed or that the soil is too dry. You can grow cannas in containers but the containers will need to be large. As they become pot-bound they become weak and need to be divided and repotted. Cannas are root hardy in places where the soil does not freeze and can survive in air temperatures down to 0 degrees. In areas where the temperature may drop below 10 degrees, adding deep mulch will help protect the roots by keeping the soil surface from freezing.

Colocasia, Alocasia, Xanthosoma – Collectively known as elephant ears, these plants have large, fleshy leaves in solid green or purple/black. Many varieties have interesting variations in color with splotching and veining patterns of green, white and purple/black. Reaching anywhere from 2 to 6 feet or taller some show a distinctive, upright growth pattern while others are more spreading. Look for names like ‘Black Magic’ (burgundy-black foliage), ‘Chicago Harlequin’ (green foliage randomly blotched with lighter green), ‘Illustris’ (green foliage overlaid with black with lime green veins and margins) or ‘Lime Zinger’ (chartreuse foliage). Elephant ears can be planted in a summer border or grown in containers on the porch or patio.

Elephant ears are sub-tropical or tropical plants but some are hardy as far north as zone 7b. They prefer a bright, indirect light or partial shade. The leaves may scorch in full sun or become too green in deep shade. They generally thrive in hot, humid conditions as long as they receive consistent moisture. They prefer a moist, rich, deep, organic soil. Be sure to feed them often as they are heavy feeders.

Oxalis – A favorite plant of many, commonly called the Shamrock plant because of the clover-like leaves. Oxalis is available in green, white/silver, burgundy or purple. You can select oxalis solid colors, interesting patterns or variegations. The flowers range from white, yellow, pink, orange and red. Oxalis can be tucked into your flower borders, grown in containers on the porch or patio and also as a houseplant on a sunny windowsill. Their diminutive size fits easily into smaller spaces and in the front of borders where they will show off throughout the summer. These little bulbs will bloom on and off from spring until fall.

Fairly petite in size oxalis range from two to 16 inches tall and depending on species they are tender, half-hardy or hardy perennials to zone 6. Oxalis can grow in full sun in temperate climates. If you garden where summers are hot give it some afternoon shade or plant it in light, dappled shade. These little bulbs have a preference for well-drained soil that is a little on the acidic side. They are drought tolerant but do water them during extended periods without rain.

Caladium – Gardeners choose caladiums for their long lasting, colorful foliage that adds interest to lightly shaded areas. Color combinations include various shades of red, pink, white, green with colored midribs and contrasting margins. The leaves are heart shaped and many have contrasting patterns. They are a mid-sized plant perfect for planting in clumps in a border or in containers. Look for the varieties ‘White Christmas’ (white leaves with green veins), ‘Pink Beauty’ (pink leaves with dark pink veins and green margins), ‘Frieda Hemple’ (red leaves with green margins)or ‘Brandywine’ (deep red leaves).

Growing 18 – 24 inches tall, caladiums perform best in moist, well-drained soil in partial shade. They enjoy warm weather but do not tolerate dry conditions. Caladiums are only hardy in zones 10 to 11. Everywhere else they should be treated as an annual or dug up after the first frost. If you choose to dig up your caladiums allow the tubers to dry thoroughly, and then layer the tubers in dry peat or vermiculite and store them in an area that remains around 50 to 60 degrees F. Check the tubers occasionally to make sure they are plump but dry.

Growing & Care

Digging & Storing

If you need to Dig up your bulbs:

  1. Snap Seed pod off after bloom
  2. Let Tulips Die Down, let leaves die off naturally
  3. Dig Up after leaves have died off
  4. Store in a cool dry place with air flow

1. Snap Seed pod off

When you take the flower head, seed pod off the stem you are letting the bulb know that it can start taking nutrients from the leaves back for a healthier bulb.

Healthy Bulbs Bad Bulbs

After blooming and the plant have dried down, the bulb keeps track of heat units. When they receive enough, a flower is formed for the coming season (for tulips, sometime in late July).

Flower bulbs are nature’s natural computer chips. They record the season’s temperature, moisture and air quality and when certain requirements are met, specific things happen. For example, when you plant your bulbs in the fall, a certain amount of moisture is needed for the roots to emerge. During the winter, most spring flowering bulbs need a certain amount of cold units before they will bloom.

2. Let Tulips Die Down

To best care for your bulbs, the leaves MUST be left alone until they are dry. The foliage manufactures the food that is being stored in the bulb for NEXT year’s flower.

Bulbs are actually a storage organ that helps the plant inside survive dormant periods.

  • Sprinkle the seeds of wallflowers or Forget-Me-Not’s over your bulb planting in the fall. These fast growing plants will cover the leaves of the bulbs once the flower is gone in the spring.

3. Dig Up

June is a good time to lift tulips. Once the foliage on the plant has turned brown and dried, the bulbs are ready to be dug. Use a garden fork rather than a shovel to help minimize the risk of digging through any bulbs.

Tulips in cooler locations (hardiness zones 8 and under) do not have to be dug every year. To keep tulips healthy and productive, dig most tulips every three years.

Tulips do not like to be crowded, the more bulbs in their hole the smaller the bulbs become each year, and the fewer flowers that are produced.

Small bulbs produce only leaves, but if replanted and cared for, the small bulbs grow into larger bulbs that produce flowers the following year. In other words, if you have lots of leaves and little flowers it is time to dig up the bulbs and spread them out so they have room to get big enough to produce a flower.

If you only have a few leaves and small flowers the bulbs are probably getting too much water over the summer.

4. Store

Once the bulb is lifted from the ground clean off the old roots, they should separate easily from the cluster of bulbs. Separate all the bulbs; there may be different sizes and numbers under each plant.

Different varieties of tulips produce bulbs in different amounts and sizes. Of course, some years the weather may also affect your production. It is important that the bulbs are completely dry before storing or they will rot. To dry bulbs, put on a mesh tray in the shade outside for a day or two before storing them.

Store the bulbs for the summer in mesh bags, for plenty of air circulation, hung up in a cool place. An open box of wood or cardboard can be used also, but mice may more easily invade an open box.

The bulbs are alive and will suffer damage if stored in plastic or in boxes filled more than five inches in depth with bulbs. Good air circulation in storage is also important and never ever store in an airtight container. Keep the temperature below 90 F for best flowers in the spring.

Can I Plant My Tulips In The Spring?

No flower represents spring better than the tulip. But every gardener knows that in order to enjoy them, you have to plan ahead. Tulips are planted in the fall to make way for beautiful blooms come spring. This is because they need a good 14 weeks of chilling at between 35 and 50 degrees in order to produce their beautiful flowers — which isn’t helpful if you are eyeing the tulip bulbs that your garden center has on display in the spring. So what can you do? Can you still plant them anyway?

In cold climates, you may be able to get tulips to bloom, provided that you get out and plant the bulbs just as soon the ground is soft enough to dig. If there are a few more weeks of chilly weather, then the tulip may just bloom. Otherwise, you can refrigerate them as long as needed, then plant them a bit later in the spring for late blooms.

What if someone gave you a pot of blooming tulips as a gift?

Those can still be planted outside, but you’ll need to be careful. For one thing, tulips that are grown in pots are often a selectively-bred variety that is more like an annual than a perennial. If you do plant it outside, don’t be surprised if it doesn’t come back the following year.

If you decide to plant your potted tulip anyway, then you’ll need to acclimate the plant to the outdoors. Do this by first placing the tulip in a shady spot. Every day or two, gradually move the tulip to a sunnier spot until it is receiving full, unfiltered sunlight. Then, dig a hole the size of the pot that the tulip is in. If you can, cut the pot away from the soil and place the tulip, soil and all, in the hole. If you can’t cut the pot away from the root ball, then do your best to leave the roots as undisturbed as possible when you remove the plant from the pot. Once planted, water well and then care for as you would any other tulip.

What About Planting Tulips in Hot Climates?

In USDA hardiness Zones 7 through 10, the ground may not get down to at least 50 degrees for the 14 weeks that tulips require to bloom. But fret not — there are a couple of things you can do to get around the laws of tulips.

If you want to grow traditional tulips, then you’ll need to dig up the bulbs each fall so that you can chill them in the refrigerator before planting. You can also keep your tulips in partial shade, where the ground stays a bit cooler.

Failing that, check out hybridized tulips that are designed to grow in warmer climates. Wild tulips, which are smaller than regular tulips, do well in Zones 7 and 8, as do Darwin Hybrids, which have been specially bred to withstand warmer temperatures. In Zones 9 and 10, you will almost certainly need to refrigerate tulip bulbs each year to get fresh blooms, no matter which variety you choose.

How to Plant Tulips

To start, you’ll need to choose the right spot. Tulip bulbs like sunny areas, with good soil that isn’t too wet but not too dry, either. Most gardeners plant their tulips between September and December because these cold-weather plants need to be chilled in order to bloom.

When you’re ready to plant, remember that tulips, like most bulbs, prefer to be buried deeply. Dig a hole eight to 12 inches deep and place the bulb at the bottom with the pointed top facing upwards.

If you feel the soil needs more nutrients, then mix in a few handfuls of compost with the loosened soil before you bury the bulb. Then water the bulb in, place a thin layer of mulch on the soil and wait for spring!

Caring for Tulips

Tulips are wonderful in that they aren’t fussy and don’t come with a long list of maintenance needs. To care for your tulips, follow a simple calendar, like this:

  • In the early spring, you can fertilize with either a small amount of all-purpose fertilizer or some compost.
  • When tulips die back and turn completely yellow in the summer, you can trim away all exposed foliage.
  • Add new bulbs to your tulip bed in the fall.

Make sure that the area you keep your tulips doesn’t get too wet, and in the spring, check the plants for diseases or pest problems as you would any plant in your garden.

How Long Do Tulips Last?

How long do tulips last? This is a question many a tulip lover has asked while surveying a fresh-cut bundle of the delicate looking blooms.

Have you ever received a cheery bundle of fresh tulips and thought, these are gorgeous, but how long can I keep them that way? The short answer is that cut tulips can last up to ten days; you just have to know how to care for them properly. Here are some tips and tricks for keeping cut tulips looking fresh and perky for as long as possible.

Tulip Basic Care

It’s always a good idea to start with the basics. If you do nothing else to care for your fresh cut tulips, follow these steps:

  1. Begin with a very clean vase
  2. Fill the vase ⅓ full with room temperature water
  3. Add either packaged or homemade flower food
  4. Trim the stems at a 45-degree angle
  5. Carefully remove any leaves that will sit under the water
  6. Repeat the above steps daily

When To Buy

Whether you’re buying tulips for yourself or someone else, look for buds that are just about to open up. You’ll know that they’re just right if the flowers are still closed, but it’s easy to see what color they’re going to be when they open.

Vase Selection

The vase you choose may seem inconsequential, but because tulips tend to droop you’ll want to select a supportive vessel. Try to select a container that’s tall and doesn’t curve outwards. This way your tulips will be supported and won’t fall over the sides of the container. Of course, some people prefer the look of tulips draping elegantly over the edge of a bowl. In this case, feel free to use a wider vessel.

Choose Vase-Mates Wisely

If you think that your tulips would look extra cheerful alongside some vivacious daffodils, think again. Those sweet, innocent looking daffodils have a bit a bit of a dark side. They come from the narcissus family of plants, which let off a slimy sap that will block the tulip stems from drinking up the water they need to stay lively.

Avoid Heat

If you research ‘how long do tulips last in a vase’ you’ll likely come across information about keeping them out of the sun and away from heat. Tulips will naturally bend towards the sunlight. Even when placed in indirect sunlight, you may need to turn the vase from time to time to keep your flowers upright. Keeping them away from heating vents and drafty areas is also a good idea.

Help Them Out

If your tulips don’t seem to be sucking up their fresh water, even with the regular stem trimming, you may need to give them a hand. Try inserting a pin through the stem just under the head. The hole allows air to escape, which should help your flowers drink up the water.

Fruity Foes

You may have heard this general tip about cut flowers, but if you research specifically ‘how long do tulips last’ you might miss this important bit of information. Keeping cut flowers away from fresh fruit is essential to extending the life of your blooms, and it’s especially crucial with tulips. Fruit that’s ripening lets off ethylene gas, which will break down your flowers faster. Tulips are particularly vulnerable to the gas.

Old Wives Tale?

There is much debate over this trick, so take it with a grain of salt. Some tulip enthusiasts insist that adding a penny (1981 or earlier) to the vase of water will keep your flowers perkier. Supposedly it’s the copper that’s released from the penny that keeps the blooms upright. It may be worth a try.

Having tulips around is a lovely reminder that spring has arrived, but the blooms just seem so delicate. If you love them and are still questioning how long do tulips last in a vase, you can find plenty of tricks online. The best thing to do though is to start with the very freshest tulips. The Bouqs Company cuts flowers to order on the day the order is placed. That way, there is no waste, and you’ll get the absolute freshest flowers.

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Bloom Status

The tulips grown in Skagit Valley do not bloom according to a precise calendar and schedule predetermined by humans. Instead, the tulips bloom according to Mother Nature — their schedule depends on the weather, particularly the weather in late winter/early spring. The tulips and daffodils only bloom once a year. Many thanks to Alaska USA Federal Credit Union for sponsoring these updates.
We will publish photos here showing the current status of the tulips and daffodils grown here in Skagit Valley — Washington Bulb Company, Inc./RoozenGaarde plants the fields and the garden RoozenGaarde while Tulip Town plants the field and displays at Tulip Town. For more information on what is grown in the fields, go to
As of May 1, 2019 the big fields of tulips are gone. Tulip Town is closed for the season. RoozenGaarde is open year-around. Thank you for enjoying the 2019 Skagit Valley Tulip Festival with us. See you next year. April 1 – 30, 2020.
Check back here to see how the roots and flowers progress in the Shell Puget Sound Refinery Bloom Bloom Box.

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